Lucked out, after 20 yrs in the wall both flow cartridges came out in one piece ! Found the part you used to remove them v helpful GTidy so a big thank you for that.
Had my Trevi therm exposed valve in place since 1995! So was dreading the replacement of all the parts. Thermostatic valve was quite stiff, but the really good news, the inlets were all brass. Don’t know if this is because it is the exposed version or the year of manufacture. (1995). If you have access to sockets use them. You will need 24mm deep socket for the thermostatic valve, and 22mm for the inlet valves. Hope this helps you as well as the information by OP.
Just watched your video as my shower had started to run slow. I had the same problem on the right hand side. It would not budge. I tried a air drier on hot to heat up the brass body and pulled with long nosed pliers and out it came. Cleaned them up. But wasn't really that bad. Put it all back together and seems OK now. Thanks.
Just came here to say that the 'heating with a hairdryer' trick worked a treat, with that an needle nosed pliers, took less then 5 mins to remove a very stubborn half-valve that was stuck in there and not moving at all before
This advice was incredibly useful.Like GTidy, the top of the valve separated from the ceramic part when they were removed (both hot and cold) and I couldn't make headway with any of the mechanical options (pliers, screwdriver, etc) whilst trying not to damage the thread or sealing surfaces.Simply knowing the outer shell is plastic rather than ceramic was a big boost. In the end, I followed his method but used a soldering iron rather than a heated screwdriver. It saves going to and fro and it was easy to push it through the side wall to convert the offending piece from a jammed 'O' shape into a more compliant 'C' shape that could be extracted by long-nosed pliers.One additional hint... it was easy to lose bits of melts plastic into the feed pipes so I flushed out the system before installing the replacement valves. As the unit is mounted below the surface, I puzzled for a while how to stop water flooding into the hollow wall and the ceiling space below. I was able to cut a rounded oblong in the floor of an old butter container to fit around the main body whilst the container walls reached out past the tiling. Not totally watertight but certainly enough to divert 99.9% of the water into the shower enclosure. At least one of the melted plastic bits that came out was big enough to have jammed in the new valves and stop them closing.
I'm very pleased my video helped you Simon. That is a good idea to use a soldering iron to help break up the ceramic that is jammed in the valve. And you are correct about the need to flush out the valve before putting in the new cartridges. Because I had bought a complete new valve (because the price was close to buying just the cartridges), the new valve came with a plastic screw-in flushing pipe and that is what I used so I didn't need to be as inventive as you with the old butter/spread container.
Hi Simon, with reference to GTdiy video, what exactly is the plastic bit you refer to? In GTidy video pt2 he removes the figure of 8 shaped ceramic inserts with pliers, is what's left the plastic part? Is "what's left" also screwed into the body or is it a simple interference fit? Thanks Jonathan
Hi @@jonathan2287 It was a couple of years back so you're testing my memory. Yes, you are correct; it's the bit left after the figure of eight ceramic part is removed (GTdiy's video part 2 ua-cam.com/video/ZcQxITqkFuk/v-deo.html). The plastic housing is the bit that protrudes forward like a pair of parentheses ( ) and was the part that I cut with the soldering iron (whereas he used a heated screwdriver). I don't recall directly but, logically, it must be an interference fit because both hot and cold valves are mounted together so there's no opportunity to rotate them (ie they cannot be screwed in). There are O-rings to create the seal... this is why it's important not to try cutting the plastic out as any scratch on the inner wall of the brass chamber might result in post-repair leakage and a dripping shower head. Hope that helps, Simon
Hi guys, I am having to replace the hot and cold flow cartridges in my trevi therm mk2, volume control handle slipping making it difficult to turn the flow off. Replaced spindle and centre gear but still happening. Technician at national shower spares informs me that i will almost certainly suffer with the issue you have all had upon removing the cartridges. Any tips on how to avoid the same outcome or is it inevitable. How do you use a soldering iron / heated screwdriver to cut through the left behind piece and which part of the plastic do you target ?
Hi, I have one of these trevi therm boost models and need to replace the thermostatic cartridge. Do both cartridges just unscrew with a spanner anti clockwise for both? Thanks for any advice
I’ve got one of these to go to next week. After taking a look it I have the same issue and the back of the valves hasn’t come out. Shower Spares are now selling the valves with updated brass cartridges, is it just a case of breaking the old ones out like in the video and getting the new brass ones in? I’m not sure if those plastic/ceramic bits should stay in. Has anyone had any experience with the new version of the flow valves?
Hi There Did you sort this out because we are thinking to change our's by a plumber we know, our water keeps going cold,please let me know if it worded for you thanks. Clive..
Hi Clive. Yes the shower valve working fine now. I added a part 2 video as well, but let me know if you have any questions on what I did if it helps. We live in a hard water area which is probably why the cartridges wouldn't come out easily. A few weeks after repairing the Trevi Therm parts our Monsoon shower pump stopped working completely so I also had to replace that. Everything is working well now.
Lucked out, after 20 yrs in the wall both flow cartridges came out in one piece ! Found the part you used to remove them v helpful GTidy so a big thank you for that.
Had my Trevi therm exposed valve in place since 1995! So was dreading the replacement of all the parts. Thermostatic valve was quite stiff, but the really good news, the inlets were all brass. Don’t know if this is because it is the exposed version or the year of manufacture. (1995). If you have access to sockets use them. You will need 24mm deep socket for the thermostatic valve, and 22mm for the inlet valves. Hope this helps you as well as the information by OP.
Just watched your video as my shower had started to run slow. I had the same problem on the right hand side. It would not budge. I tried a air drier on hot to heat up the brass body and pulled with long nosed pliers and out it came. Cleaned them up. But wasn't really that bad. Put it all back together and seems OK now. Thanks.
Thanks for the extra info Mark.
Just came here to say that the 'heating with a hairdryer' trick worked a treat, with that an needle nosed pliers, took less then 5 mins to remove a very stubborn half-valve that was stuck in there and not moving at all before
This advice was incredibly useful.Like GTidy, the top of the valve separated from the ceramic part when they were removed (both hot and cold) and I couldn't make headway with any of the mechanical options (pliers, screwdriver, etc) whilst trying not to damage the thread or sealing surfaces.Simply knowing the outer shell is plastic rather than ceramic was a big boost. In the end, I followed his method but used a soldering iron rather than a heated screwdriver. It saves going to and fro and it was easy to push it through the side wall to convert the offending piece from a jammed 'O' shape into a more compliant 'C' shape that could be extracted by long-nosed pliers.One additional hint... it was easy to lose bits of melts plastic into the feed pipes so I flushed out the system before installing the replacement valves. As the unit is mounted below the surface, I puzzled for a while how to stop water flooding into the hollow wall and the ceiling space below. I was able to cut a rounded oblong in the floor of an old butter container to fit around the main body whilst the container walls reached out past the tiling. Not totally watertight but certainly enough to divert 99.9% of the water into the shower enclosure. At least one of the melted plastic bits that came out was big enough to have jammed in the new valves and stop them closing.
I'm very pleased my video helped you Simon. That is a good idea to use a soldering iron to help break up the ceramic that is jammed in the valve. And you are correct about the need to flush out the valve before putting in the new cartridges. Because I had bought a complete new valve (because the price was close to buying just the cartridges), the new valve came with a plastic screw-in flushing pipe and that is what I used so I didn't need to be as inventive as you with the old butter/spread container.
Hi Simon, with reference to GTdiy video, what exactly is the plastic bit you refer to? In GTidy video pt2 he removes the figure of 8 shaped ceramic inserts with pliers, is what's left the plastic part?
Is "what's left" also screwed into the body or is it a simple interference fit?
Thanks Jonathan
Hi @@jonathan2287
It was a couple of years back so you're testing my memory.
Yes, you are correct; it's the bit left after the figure of eight ceramic part is removed (GTdiy's video part 2 ua-cam.com/video/ZcQxITqkFuk/v-deo.html).
The plastic housing is the bit that protrudes forward like a pair of parentheses ( ) and was the part that I cut with the soldering iron (whereas he used a heated screwdriver).
I don't recall directly but, logically, it must be an interference fit because both hot and cold valves are mounted together so there's no opportunity to rotate them (ie they cannot be screwed in). There are O-rings to create the seal... this is why it's important not to try cutting the plastic out as any scratch on the inner wall of the brass chamber might result in post-repair leakage and a dripping shower head.
Hope that helps, Simon
Hi guys, I am having to replace the hot and cold flow cartridges in my trevi therm mk2, volume control handle slipping making it difficult to turn the flow off. Replaced spindle and centre gear but still happening. Technician at national shower spares informs me that i will almost certainly suffer with the issue you have all had upon removing the cartridges. Any tips on how to avoid the same outcome or is it inevitable. How do you use a soldering iron / heated screwdriver to cut through the left behind piece and which part of the plastic do you target ?
aha .But is there a video on how to get to this stage .ie removing the covers and knobs
Can you tell me the make model and where I can get part’s please, mine is 20 years old and the cartridges have failed.
Hi,
I have one of these trevi therm boost models and need to replace the thermostatic cartridge.
Do both cartridges just unscrew with a spanner anti clockwise for both?
Thanks for any advice
I’ve got one of these to go to next week. After taking a look it I have the same issue and the back of the valves hasn’t come out. Shower Spares are now selling the valves with updated brass cartridges, is it just a case of breaking the old ones out like in the video and getting the new brass ones in? I’m not sure if those plastic/ceramic bits should stay in. Has anyone had any experience with the new version of the flow valves?
Hi There Did you sort this out because we are thinking to change our's by a plumber we know, our water keeps going cold,please let me know if it worded for you thanks. Clive..
Hi Clive. Yes the shower valve working fine now. I added a part 2 video as well, but let me know if you have any questions on what I did if it helps. We live in a hard water area which is probably why the cartridges wouldn't come out easily. A few weeks after repairing the Trevi Therm parts our Monsoon shower pump stopped working completely so I also had to replace that. Everything is working well now.