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GTdiy
Приєднався 1 кві 2016
Replacing a double glazed unit (externally glazed)
I hadn't replaced a double glazed unit before. In the first 5 minutes I talk through what I did and found out as I worked on the job. Skip this if you just want to see some clips and then you can go back to the start if you think the extra info will help you.
Переглядів: 15 893
Відео
Leaking Dripping from bottom of Hozelock Auto Reel
Переглядів 38 тис.7 років тому
Shows one source of a leak using the Hozelock video
Tool to remove Trevi Therm cartridge housing
Переглядів 13 тис.8 років тому
This is what I had in my tool box and it worked well - a special socket to remove/fit a new O2 sensor on a car. Available from motor factors. There may be a special plumbing tool as well, but I didn't have one!
Replacing a Stuart Turner Monsoon shower pump 46078 where the push fit fittings won't release
Переглядів 20 тис.8 років тому
Here I share how I got the push fit fittings off my shower when it stopped working, and had to be replaced. The old pump was 46078. The replacement was 46416 S3.0 bar twin.
Trevi Therm shower valve - removing cartridges (part 2)
Переглядів 14 тис.8 років тому
If the cartridges need replacing, you may find they are stuck in the valve body. Here I share my experience of removing them.
Trevi Therm shower valve - removing cartridges (part 1)
Переглядів 25 тис.8 років тому
Gives some information on what you may experience when trying to replace old cartridges that may be stuck in the valve body.
Those windows!! Utter poor quality! If you can remove the beading from the outside, any thief could do just that, removed the glazing and have easy and full access to your home within 5 mins 🤣
Had my Trevi therm exposed valve in place since 1995! So was dreading the replacement of all the parts. Thermostatic valve was quite stiff, but the really good news, the inlets were all brass. Don’t know if this is because it is the exposed version or the year of manufacture. (1995). If you have access to sockets use them. You will need 24mm deep socket for the thermostatic valve, and 22mm for the inlet valves. Hope this helps you as well as the information by OP.
Stick to the day job mate
I’ve got one of these to go to next week. After taking a look it I have the same issue and the back of the valves hasn’t come out. Shower Spares are now selling the valves with updated brass cartridges, is it just a case of breaking the old ones out like in the video and getting the new brass ones in? I’m not sure if those plastic/ceramic bits should stay in. Has anyone had any experience with the new version of the flow valves?
Just fitted a brand new one of these for a customer and it leaked from the inside straight away!
Hi, I have one of these trevi therm boost models and need to replace the thermostatic cartridge. Do both cartridges just unscrew with a spanner anti clockwise for both? Thanks for any advice
Can you tell me the make model and where I can get part’s please, mine is 20 years old and the cartridges have failed.
need the first bead you cut it. pointless video.
aha .But is there a video on how to get to this stage .ie removing the covers and knobs
Thank you ....sorry got problem with my Trevi globe mixer where is the original video whats it called cant find it
Lucked out, after 20 yrs in the wall both flow cartridges came out in one piece ! Found the part you used to remove them v helpful GTidy so a big thank you for that.
Hi guys, I am having to replace the hot and cold flow cartridges in my trevi therm mk2, volume control handle slipping making it difficult to turn the flow off. Replaced spindle and centre gear but still happening. Technician at national shower spares informs me that i will almost certainly suffer with the issue you have all had upon removing the cartridges. Any tips on how to avoid the same outcome or is it inevitable. How do you use a soldering iron / heated screwdriver to cut through the left behind piece and which part of the plastic do you target ?
Not very good
had to fast forward to avoid 5 minutes of hesitant waffle so I could get to the bit that matters
Why on earth did you cut the video where it actually showed you taking out the beading. Almost exactly the same beading i'm having a problem with. Except my is a full door unit thats been in place for at least 22 years. At this moment i can see myself damagin the UPVC, either the beading or the frame. At this moment i'm thinking about using packers to slowly prise the beading from opening. Anyway how did you finaly get the first beading open????????
Take the rubber gasket out from the inside of the window, this helps with the beading being removed as you can move the unit slightly
@@christhomas9753 Cheers Chris, figured it out a few months ago. Now need the proper beading for the UPVC as the old stuff is brittle and useless. Thanks again anyway
@@darrenpauling6155did u have much luck finding replacement beading!
Hi, great video. I have the 40m grey version of this, which 1 did u have? Thanks
Great video v useful. Do you know where I can get a replacement white inlet connector from?
Hi I added some info about how to remove the remaining plastic housing that's left in place after the ceramic parts are removed in this 'Part 2' video. My comments are against Part 1 of GTdiy's video (ua-cam.com/video/3Rne58ATWBQ/v-deo.html). Sorry to have placed the comments against the earlier step. S
Good tip! However the Trevi therm cartridges are about 21.5 mm. All the sensor removal tools I have found are 22mm. Did your o2 sensor removal tool fit nicely ( if so what type is it? ) or does it slop-around a bit?
22mm socket works well. It's a bit sloppy but the valve isn't torqued too high so it'll do the job .
Great pump, but the dumbest design of the connection tube/pipe. The idiot who designed it obviously never tried to replace those before.
Did you have a lot of assembly when you first purchase the auto reel. I am thinking of buying one and was wondering how much assembly is required.
If I recall it wasn't difficult - you have to remove the side cover to attach the input piece of house from the tap. Drilling the holes to fix the reel to the wall is the most time consuming job. Hope that helps.
Thank you
@@scottcraig987 They're pretty easy to assemble and install. However I'm researching how to fix a leak from inside as my son jumped on the connecting hose to the tap, which caused an internal leak :-(
Just watched your video as my shower had started to run slow. I had the same problem on the right hand side. It would not budge. I tried a air drier on hot to heat up the brass body and pulled with long nosed pliers and out it came. Cleaned them up. But wasn't really that bad. Put it all back together and seems OK now. Thanks.
Thanks for the extra info Mark.
Just came here to say that the 'heating with a hairdryer' trick worked a treat, with that an needle nosed pliers, took less then 5 mins to remove a very stubborn half-valve that was stuck in there and not moving at all before
Thanks for the video. I used a large shifting spanner to press against the dark grey collets and wiggled them off. The replacement model from Stuart Turner needs to be lifted up about 2 inches for the pipes to fit as it no longer has the quick release vertical connecters on the pump.
This advice was incredibly useful.Like GTidy, the top of the valve separated from the ceramic part when they were removed (both hot and cold) and I couldn't make headway with any of the mechanical options (pliers, screwdriver, etc) whilst trying not to damage the thread or sealing surfaces.Simply knowing the outer shell is plastic rather than ceramic was a big boost. In the end, I followed his method but used a soldering iron rather than a heated screwdriver. It saves going to and fro and it was easy to push it through the side wall to convert the offending piece from a jammed 'O' shape into a more compliant 'C' shape that could be extracted by long-nosed pliers.One additional hint... it was easy to lose bits of melts plastic into the feed pipes so I flushed out the system before installing the replacement valves. As the unit is mounted below the surface, I puzzled for a while how to stop water flooding into the hollow wall and the ceiling space below. I was able to cut a rounded oblong in the floor of an old butter container to fit around the main body whilst the container walls reached out past the tiling. Not totally watertight but certainly enough to divert 99.9% of the water into the shower enclosure. At least one of the melted plastic bits that came out was big enough to have jammed in the new valves and stop them closing.
I'm very pleased my video helped you Simon. That is a good idea to use a soldering iron to help break up the ceramic that is jammed in the valve. And you are correct about the need to flush out the valve before putting in the new cartridges. Because I had bought a complete new valve (because the price was close to buying just the cartridges), the new valve came with a plastic screw-in flushing pipe and that is what I used so I didn't need to be as inventive as you with the old butter/spread container.
Hi Simon, with reference to GTdiy video, what exactly is the plastic bit you refer to? In GTidy video pt2 he removes the figure of 8 shaped ceramic inserts with pliers, is what's left the plastic part? Is "what's left" also screwed into the body or is it a simple interference fit? Thanks Jonathan
Hi @@jonathan2287 It was a couple of years back so you're testing my memory. Yes, you are correct; it's the bit left after the figure of eight ceramic part is removed (GTdiy's video part 2 ua-cam.com/video/ZcQxITqkFuk/v-deo.html). The plastic housing is the bit that protrudes forward like a pair of parentheses ( ) and was the part that I cut with the soldering iron (whereas he used a heated screwdriver). I don't recall directly but, logically, it must be an interference fit because both hot and cold valves are mounted together so there's no opportunity to rotate them (ie they cannot be screwed in). There are O-rings to create the seal... this is why it's important not to try cutting the plastic out as any scratch on the inner wall of the brass chamber might result in post-repair leakage and a dripping shower head. Hope that helps, Simon
A 22mm tubular box spanner is the correct, widely available tool.
Hi There Did you sort this out because we are thinking to change our's by a plumber we know, our water keeps going cold,please let me know if it worded for you thanks. Clive..
Hi Clive. Yes the shower valve working fine now. I added a part 2 video as well, but let me know if you have any questions on what I did if it helps. We live in a hard water area which is probably why the cartridges wouldn't come out easily. A few weeks after repairing the Trevi Therm parts our Monsoon shower pump stopped working completely so I also had to replace that. Everything is working well now.