I broke my CBR600RR - Repair video (valve adjustment)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 гру 2022
- Check out my website! www.herorr.com
herorr.com/store - (stickers, shirts, etc.)
herorr.com/my-bikes - (all my bikes & mods)
herorr.com/my-gear - (all my gear and equipment)
============================================
My Motorcycles:
2008 Honda CBR600RR
2006 Honda RC51
2003 Honda VFR 800
2003 CBR 954RR
2012 Kawasaki ZX14R
2014 KTM 125 SX
1980 Honda Z50
============================================
Social Media
Instagram - / theherorr
facebook - / theherorr
============================================
Contact:
-Business inquiries ONLY: theherorr@gmail.com
-Casual talk over on instagram or facebook @theherorr
============================================ - Розваги
Great Video Hero. As always, articulate, clear and precise. My mate has done my CRF450X with me, obviously no where near as complex as this one.
Keep them coming, looking forward to the next one.
Been watching your videos for a while. Fixing to pick up an 05 600rr so these types of videos will be super helpful.
Love your work. Thank you. I had a similar thing happen to me in the early 90’s. I was taking my race bike on a standard trailer to be measured for 2 bikes in a custom made, fully enclosed race trailer. Same story, my fault. A bit embarrassing however I was lucky that one of my sponsors fixed it for free. Keep up the great work. 👍😎🇦🇺
Loved this! Please do a basic Bike maintenance video for newbies like myself (and perhaps a list of all the essential tools we need to get). Great content ♥️
yeah strap it down on the bottom of the fork where the breaks are, then you dont compress the fork springs during transfer. Also having the woodcraft slip-ons is nice because you can just swap the bar off without having to drop the fork tube. If you got fiberglass fairings you can just fix the cracks with fiberglass and bondo. my 08 600RR has 45,000 miles, the 2 times i had the valves checked they were fine. Once they seat, they hold well.
BTW I recently changed out the timing gear for a Factory Pro 4 degree advance unit on my 599 (CB600F Hornet here in Europe) and it is something you must do if you have the stock advance. The difference is incredible, especially at part throttle. It will put a smile on your face, believe me.
Wow the timing on this video is crazy, gonna be doing valves on my cbr next week. Bike looks super clean!
How much did it cost?
that CCT removal is a great hack! I have done a bit of cct work, but never seen this, thank you so much!
For some reason this video was very soothing, I almost fell asleep. Maybe it's your voice
Hey! Well same here. I had my motor out though when I did my bike and also use the same torque wrench that broke one of my clutch screws also but I feel your pain bro . Love the video. Look forward to seeing the second one.
Great detailed video I myself have done many mods to my 1999 Yamaha R1 and also to my 2008 Yamaha R1 but have never really messed with cam/valve related work and to tell you the truth not really so sure I would trust myself in doing so. Sorry for the strapping accident but nothing like having an excuse to be able to do something for a 1st.
Happy New Year HeroRR, thanks for the latest video. Have a suggestion for you: the 1987 Honda Hurricane 1000 and 600. They were both gamechangers. Would be cool to see an episode on each. Rumor I heard was that the engineers at Honda had an internal challenge between two teams for the 1000 engine. One team made the inline 4 and another made a V4????? I rode the 1000 for a year before a big off but could twist your ear for a week about how awesome it was. Also the 1982 Honda CBR1100R was another game changer. Its the bike I 'learnt' to ride on. Ron Haslam had great success on it as well as Dave Petersen from South Africa. Would be cool if you did an episode on it. Anyway Staykul and keep the rubber side down.
If you have an inch-pound clicker wrench, it's really easy but, I often use a small beam type for such work, as it's easy to see what you're doing. I've built whole engines with a beam type torque wrench.
This is why I dont use canyon dancers. Regular ratchet straps do just fine, hook them around the forks under the triple and this would have never happened.
100% this works. And keeps the bike stable upright as well.
He made it pretty clear that it was his fault. Canyon dancers are the best solution and everyone uses them. This was a fluke. Ratcheting down on your forks can damage seals. Not to mention the forks are not meant to have opposing forces pulling on them.
Happy New Year 🎆 Brotha RR
Lay down on the country road a few months ago with my CBR1000RR. It was expensive fun. I injured the joint of my right thumb in the crash and have to undergo an operation. Material can always be replaced. The main thing is that the bones are still intact.
Cool vid. So many different ways to strap down bikes.. everyone has their own way to secure it. Well done on the 1st try doing valves. Patience is always key. Take your time. Make double sure. You were lucky with that bolt. Damn
Thanks. I’ve never been so lucky in all my life lol. I probably used up all my good luck for about 5 years now.
Wow! So lucky OMG. This is far beyond what I want to do at this time. Thanks for demonstrating. Yeah cheap torque wrenches at such low settings are worthless. Better just to go by feel. The pinch bolts on the front wheel are about the same setting and my torque wrench is all over the map. I can tell when I remove them.
Great on the valve adjustment. It is a pain in the butt. However, once done correctly you have confidence in knowing it was done because you did it. This isn't something just anyone can do, so one has to be honest with themselves in regard to their own ability. That said, if one chooses to have a shop perform this task, make sure they have a stellar reputation. It's a time consuming job and time translates to money. No matter which way one chooses to go, be careful. It is something that needs to be done with this type of valve train from time to time, as goes with other maintenance. Ride Safe!
Valve clearance is absolutely anyone can do with little or no training. It's a matter of following very simple and very easy instructions. It's just time consuming, that's all. Anyone with the right tools can do this service, so I would encourage anyone with a torque wrench and some feeler gauges and a few other tools to go ahead and do it themselves. For most people, you'll probably save money too considering how expensive taking a bike is to the shop.
@@180FiftyFive LMAO!
I didn’t feel comfortable performing this service on my bike, ended up paying $1500 at the dealer.
@@Messier87_M87 You did the right thing Dave. It needed to be done, you spent the money to get it there, enjoy the bike and be happy.
@@williamwintemberg Thanks for the kind words. Took a ride today after reading your comment, finally some good weather here in the states.
I had problems with torque wrenches when I was replacing my clutch. I learned the hard way my 2 wrenches were seriously wrong on low torque needed for the bike. I bought a special torque wrench for the bicycle and it was properly cc calibrated for low torque.
Great video. I’m still dreading the valve job on my VFR1200F, the front head is really hard to get to.
I’ll still get it done at 32k miles, should be this spring/summer, I’ll get a better torque wrench too.
Hey did you do it? I need to adjust my vfr1200f too. Mine is @60k kms. I'm just thinking about adjusting the exhaust sides without intake buckets so not removing chain tensioner and camshafts.
I always set my torque wrench to a few foot pounds below the spec, especially when something is under 20 foot pounds + one or two is really not gonna make a difference. You got extremely lucky.
Big fan Powamoto always love your explanations and guidance 🙏humbled by your knowledge happy new years 🙏🙌fam all the best for you and yours 💫🤘✌🦾🔥☝🤟👉😎💥👊💚🚀👍🤧
I was doing a valve adjustment on my R6 two months ago. I stripped 4 cam bolts and had to take the whole head off to rethread. Oh, had to buy a new head gasket too since I took off the head...basically turned a 3 day job into a 3 week repair😅
That BMW S1000RR HP4 is looking fire!
I had a strap come lose which went under the trailer's wheel on the highway at speed. I knew something was wrong because I could just about feel the 'twang' through the steering wheel. I was very fortunate, the strap itself was secured around the forks and not the clipons otherwise I would have had the same situation as you did I think.
BTW - I use one of those clicky torque wrenches too (not harbor fraud), and not for anything critical like engine bolts. I suggest you don't throw it away. If its reasonably accurate (test it against your mate's digital snap-on), keep it. It WILL come in handy when you need to say tighten caliper bolts to 45 ft/lbs and you can't find your new swanky wrench when you need it. It will do the job.
I’m just gonna have a shop check and adjust my valves I don’t wanna mess with that shit😅but very informative video man glad I found your channel a while ago!
You have a great voice .. seriously you do .. should be in radio broadcasting .. I’d have a chair for you on voice Alone
Haha thanks
What a creeper🤣🤣
Sir, it appears that you have the Pittsburgh HF torque wrench which is light years away from the ICON from HF. I'm a Engineer and Honda Pro Technician, and the ICON actually rates quite well in testing. You should have also used a 3/8" or 1/4" drive if you didn't already.
Easy to convert pounds of torque to inches of torque by multiplying the setting by 12.
T.S. RACING
Yeah Bro, those Harbor Freight torque wrenches are not quite calibrated. I had to break a part too to learn.
I’ve paused working on my bike until I can get reliable spec wrenches. Those wrenches should really be sold with a certified tag declaring tool was calibrated correctly prior to packaging. It would really help me sleep better knowing information like that is enclosed with item. Good video, Brotha RR. 👍👍
Torque is applied in a pattern working from the middle to the ends of the head. Once you take the clamping torque off by loosening the bolts, it doesn't matter what sequence you take them off. The numbering of the bolts is to when you retorque the caps back on.
Proto makes a nice 1/4" drive inch-ounce torque wrench for things like this and it's easier to fit in those spaces. You should also probably be putting new bolts on, as some of those appear to be torque to yield fasteners. You torque to a specific setting, then turn a specified distance past that to stretch the fastener and get the right clamping force.
I don't ride a CBR, mine is a 5th gen VFR 800, so it costs ~700 bucks to check/adjust the valves at a dealer. Done at 16k miles, at 48k now, and no issues. I have seen VFR's that have gone more than 100k and never had the valves adjusted since new and still zooming and booming. Cracked plastic can be fiberglassed on the back side, there is a repair kit of all you need in a book sized box except acetone and sand paper. I recommend at least 2 layers of glass cloth and spot putty/glaze for body work to fill any defects on the viewable side. Kit was 23 bucks at wally world. Good luck
Love the use of walmarts proper name
My bad, it's inch-pounds & not ounces. Just divide the number of inches by 12 and you get equivalent in ft-lbs. Don't know what I was thinking when I messed that up. Good luck with the glassing, it's pretty easy. 1st I did it was fixing my fairing on this VFR.
I've got the 1/4 and the 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench. I think the 1/4 goes up to 22 inch pounds max but I have occasionally "switched" them. Let me tell you, what is huge on a 1/4 is tiny on a 1/2 incher.
Great video.!
The domino grips are amazing, do you maybe know if it also fits on the Honda Cbr 1000rr 2006 maybe a stupid question
Anyways thanks greetings from holland
I remember when working on the top of my CBR600F1 i had to torque the bolts 3 times. 1st time 1/3 of the torque spec on all bolts, 2nd time 2/3 on all bolts and 3rd time to the actual spec, and ofc torque it so it clicks twice to be sure.
I've worked on some diesel generators where you have to torque it to spec and then torque it some degrees(of a circle) more. I'd hate to do that on a bike engine while it's still in the frame, luckily bikes don't require that.
But you're you lucky SOAB to have the bolt tear and be able to take it out in one piece. I've worked on a lot of machinery and broken several bolts(no torque specs) and never had it tear so it could still come out in one piece.
Man you have no idea how relieved I felt when the whole bolt came out.
Great video!
Already measured fork? It could also have been damaged. It is best to loosen the screws from the fork clamp at the foot of the fork and the axle nut a little and compress the fork several times to eliminate tension that has built up in the fork.
Hi hero .. question on another subject.. would u ever use aluminium radiator replacement
.. my rads got a stone hole and the diff between oem and Ali is astonishing. I know there are some pitfalls but lots of users say that there worth using. Or am I just wishing
You dodged a bullet by having avoided a crash. Good on you for sharing.
Love your videos,
Do a compression and leakdown test while you have access and change out the plugs.
My arrow header also got loose like that. Barley after much mileage too
I have a 2006 cb599 aka cb600f wonder if its time for a valve check at 16k. you said your bike has29k is this the first time checking them? did the first owner check them?
the proper tool would be a 3/8 torque wrench. That 1/2 inch on isnt correct at such low torques. also 14 ftlb sounds super high for those cam cap bolts...but i guess if its in the manual. usually those smaller bolts are like 7-10 ftlbs. You wont have this problem again if u invest in a inlb torque wrench, or the one i use is 3/8 and it does 5-35 ftlb.. If you plan on doing more work it is well worth it. Im a mechanic so i just though id throw it out there. Man, you got lucky that bolt wasnt broken flush...
i just double checked and my manual has them listed at 9 ftlbs
I agree, I have a 3/8 torque wrench just for these situations, I don't think the click or beep type was the issue ~ It's just too easy to break stuff with all that leverage
Wow,NOW YOU KNOW WHY Dealerships charge UP THE ASS for doing valve-jobs on CBR's!!! Lol. LOVED this video Man (as I love ALL your videos),and a DIYourselfer can NEVER EVER be TOO Cautious!!! So please don't blame yourself when you think you ARE being overly-cautious! As like You said,if You WEREN'T being as cautious,that bolt would've easily snapped right in two,and then you'd have real trouble on your hands,fishing that out of there! Great-video Man!!! : >)
I just never trust dealers, I have no idea if they ever actually checked and adjusted my valves or just said they did.
@@HeroRR I agree with you 100% on NOT trusting dealers!!! I'm with ya!!! ; >)
You need a head mount camera harness so you can use both hands?
nice work
i always heard that a bike motor will run forever, "all ya gotta do is adjust the valves once a year!" hee haw! ...idk it was a full teardown of the bike! lmao! if i took my bike down this far I'd never get it back together properly, so this is something I'll have to save for and get done by a professional...i should've paid more attention back in my 'small engine repair' course in high school! lol
Do you have a link to the brand you used to delete your pair valve?
Hi Hero, i've a cbr 600 rr '08 like yours. Adjustment of valve is reccomend for how many miles?? Sorry is someone asked you yet! Great job and fantastic viedeos!! Greatings!
Honda recommends you adjust after 16k miles. I find that rather unnecessary though unless you are tracking the bike. I adjusted mine for the first time at 28k miles and most were barely even off. I only adjusted because I was already down there.
@@HeroRR thanks mate! Apreciated
So I assume you may have a new appreciation for doing the valves on your VFR?
I ordered a 🔧 that clicks. Haven't used it yet. But I think I'll toss it also xD
Do you still have your OEM silver fairings?
Headers came loose same as any bolt. They hold via friction which doesn't do a very good job at staying tight on things that vibrate
Should I use loctite?
Not great mechanical practice, using the electric wrench. You can't feel anything. Switch back to manual hand tools so you can tell something crunchy is going on in the threads before you do any damage. You got so lucky with that bolt during torque up! A good learning experience that you need a full set of quality torque wrenches. Digital isn't necessarily better at all though, main thing is reputable product and not clicking twice or going beyond the click point, inspecting threads intricately and being super delicate with fasteners while they are removed. Replace used fastners in critical areas with OEM correct part number as a matter of course. Make that a new habit when doing any work. That's all good mechanical practice, as per aviation and pro race work. I know you aim to be at a high standard with this, I like your attention to detail in most areas like surface finish and fastidious take on unseen cleanliness and wiring... hope my observations and advice don't ever sting. Read them in a positive tone, that's how I'd say it to you! Constructive. 😎🤓👊
I think your amount of patience would cause me to lose mine haha
/the chosen one \m/
You made great videos in the past, what the hell happened?
That bolt probably just failed due to age and lots of heat cycles. I've had fasteners fail in much less harsh use areas. OEM bolts aren't exactly the best quality...
Click type torque wrenches are fine unless you really want to be as precise as possible. It's just best not to use the very low end or very high end of a torque wrench as they're usually least accurate there. I have that same HF torque wrench I got a decade ago, I use it as a breaker bar now.
If you want a solid tool without spending snap-on prices, look into CDI. I have three of their torque wrenches: 1/4, 1/2 and 3/8. That basically covers everything from low in/lbs to high ft/lbs. Unless snap-on has changed, CDI is their manufacturer that they re-badge and up-charge for their click-types.
holy shit, you got SO lucky!
Hi did you learn all this at a school?
I’m planning on buying a 2006 cbr600rr but the bikes needs valve adjustment and I’m not sure how much it’ll cost. Can someone tell me or just a quote?
I have snapped a cam cover bolt before. Not the most fun experience.
Do you just have OEM clip-ons now or you kept one HeliBar?
I sold my helibars years ago. (They were great btw but once I got the vfr i wanted to switch back to oem since that became my daily.) so they’re both oem.
These are stretch bolts, they need to be replaced to be honest, no mandatory but you should.
Valve adjustment are a fucking pain bro
I just bounced my panigale right off the front stand trying to test the rebound/compression and busted the beautiful carbon fiber hugger. Sucks but could have been waaaaay worse. The lesson?..... don't get baked and start F'n around with your new bike! 😕.
i can only dream of being able to work on my bike like this lol. so far i just kinda know how to do basic stuff like oil, brake fluid changes. might change out my brake pads soon and bleed the brakes so ill see how that goes.
Hey man we all start somewhere. As you can see I make mistakes all the time. Part of the struggles of self teaching. Anyone can turn a wrench tho!
install a speed bleeder! motorcycle life hack. it makes it so much easier to do and no mess at all.
Dude you got sshhhiiittttt lucky
Hey Hero!!! Could you link that tool you used to get that PAIN IN THE ASS can chain tensioner!!!! I have a 2008 CBR600rr and I want to put a manual cam chain tension in but I don’t know what tool to use. I’ve never seen a tool like the one you’re using so if you could throw a Amazon link or whatever I would be SOO thankful!!! Thanks buddy!!! Great video!!! I need to adjust my valves too, I have about 48,000 miles on mine and it’s only been done once and I DON’T want to spend the 800+ at the dealership to do it. I want to put in new fork springs and fork seals but I only have lifts and I don’t think it can be done with the fork lifts only so I might just have to bite the bullet and have the dealership do it.
Anyway, a link to the BAD ASS took you used to get the cam chain tensioner out would be MUCH appreciated!!! I LOVE your CBR bro!!! Such a BEAUTIFUL bike!!! Mine has the aftermarket Repsol fairings I had to put on after a dude almost killed me and then RAN bro!!! What as asshole. Stay safe my friend and I LOVE your videos!!! Keep up the GREAT work buddy!!! 😊✌️
mistakes are how we learn. It's the ones that don't learn from them that have a problem
Takes a man to admit his mistakes
Aw man..
this looks difficult. I want to pay a mechanic to do valve clearance later on but I find it hard to trust them with my bike. ughh
Yeah I can’t trust anyone either. That’s why I do all my own stuff. Not sure what bike you have but you can let the valves go for a while usually before it ever really affects anything. Stories of guys out there with 100k miles and never adjusted valves. Bikes still run.
I adjust the valves on my I2 bikes, but vor my V4... Hell no, that's my dealers problem. XD
dude over here riding with his headers dangling, if you installed that exhaust torque specs and loctite were ignored.
What’s a pair delete
Ask Bruce Jenner.
@@archiewilson4943 dude… nice one actually made me laugh
Honda motorcycle has a system called pair valve system used to pass for greener emission regulations. It injects fresh air into the exhaust valve to ignite unburn fuel and causes a more lean ratio or forces more air and tricking sniffer machines to pass the emission test. In another terms we enthusiast wouldn't give 2 biscuits to care about so pair delete is common as it Complicates our bikes and engines at the expense of retarded horsies our bikes can produce.
@@kaiser98berlin so changing headers does not get rid of this? Or is it a separate system from headers
A PAIR delete would be anything that restricts the fresh air bypass from the intake that goes into the exhaust. The PAIR valve is used to clean up the emissions coming from the bike by injecting air into the exhaust systems to help burn unburnt fuel and keep the catalytic converters working.
Nothing like replacing apart something yo uchanged days ago couldnt of said it better myself fkn honda
How’s the Bike Nowadays After the Adjustment lol Don’t lie haha
Wow .. rather u than me .. damm bad luck on ratchets ect ..
lmfao, NEVER reuse torque to yield bolts. That's why the bolt broke.
What's with the annoying background noise? Sounds like a nickel in the dryer.
Lol . Now I can’tun hear that nickel 😂
It's a nickel in a dryer.
first, do you have a manual, the bible? cuz it looks and sounds like you don't. second, always adjust towards the tight side. why? because things expand or get more clearance when they get hot or begin to wear. cold=contract. hot=expand. third, if you read the bible, it tells us to remove camshaft cap bolts 1/4 to 1/2 a turn each in sequence till they are all loose, then remove. reverse to re install and use same sequence and tightening procedure till all caps are snug. cap closest to chain is the positioner for the proper camshaft alignment. then we torque in sequence in two stages to 106 inch pounds. 14 foot pounds= 168 inch pounds. 62 inch pounds or a little over 5 foot pounds to much. hence why you almost had a stripped cap hole. and creep up on the click. then i run thru the sequence three or four more times just to make sure all bolts are at spec torque. four, the bible also tells us to retract tensioner plunger and lock in place before 8mm bolt removal. then when you reinstall tensioner, do not just pull retraction tool out and slam rod against chain guide. rotate tensioner back into position with tool till seated. slamming will cause an overtight chain and improper tension. proper procedures make proper repairs. our lil motors have very tight tolerances, this is why they are soooo bad ass. remember, check, recheck and make sure cuz one mistake may be catastrophic. hope this helps you on the next go around.
Dude, you make too many noobie mistakes. Regroup and start being paranoid. Slow down. You shouldn't be screwing up like that at this point.
Everything could've been avoided had you slowed down and checked off steps. First the straps, then the torque wrench. Harbor Freight? Come on, man.
It's almost like you enjoy suffering! Slow the heck down. Even when disassembling or wrenching you hamfist everything. SLOW DOWN! 😬
Mr not a hero hasn't even got a 1000... tart....