A Fast Curing Fake Oil Finish For Your Guitar Part 1
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- I love hand-rubbed oil finishes on guitars, but they take so long to cure. This video explains my technique for replicating a fake oil finish that cures in minutes instead of days or weeks.
www.solarez.co...
Lol why are you in a hurry to finish a handmade guitar? This is not luthiery.
The definition of luthiery makes no mention of time. www.yourdictionary.com/luthiery
And what exactly are you doing in the world, pal? Have you brought a brand new instrument into existence by crafting and shaping wood and steel and bone? Are you creating useful, educational content for others to benefit from? I don't see much going on w/ your channel that would qualify you to decide what is and is not "luthiery".
Really comprehensive tutorial, thanks Chris. Also- what a beautiful guitar! Really looking forward to seeing that come together.
Can you tell me exactly which Solarez product this is ? Is it the brush on finish or the grain sealer. The can looks like the sealer but I'm not sure because the packaging is now different..... thanks. Love the videos !
I used the brush on. I know they've tweaked the formula a few times since, so it may look different from what's available now.
Anytime I can avoid a finish with a 6 hour wait time between coats and 2 months to harden, you’ll have my attention. This product looks as though I could take a 5 day process and do it in 2 hours. And the price is very reasonable. I can hardly wait to try it.
Hello, is it possible to use a stain before applying a coating with oil and wax? If so, should the stains be water-based or organic? Thank you so much for your videos))
Yes and it doesn’t matter. Just know that water-based stain raises the grain and oil-based takes longer to dry.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Good luck to you!
Great video! Would I be able to use the Solorez on a dyed ash body? I am using an ebony grain filler then a yellow/orange/ red burst. Would sanding sealer go on before the Solorez ? Any help would be appreciated Thanks
That'll be a yes to both of your questions.
if a job is worth doing it is worth doing fast and fake
Right? I'm sure "Fake Oil Finish" is a real big selling point to people ready to spend hundreds or thousands on a custom guitar LOL. May as well just spray the thing with clear satin whatever and be done with it.
Denatured or isopropyl alcohol? Looks like a bottle of isopropyl. Please clarify.
Either one.
Frankly IMHO your scratches it seems to me are made by the lower grits of sand paper so if my guitar body doesn't have any deep visible scratches on it I would go 220 then 400. I have never understood the need for 100 grit or lower unless you have a rough piece of wood. Please explain why the need for hitting every grit, it just doesn't seem like a good idea to me, in fact it seems like a good way to get those weird scratches that are hard to get out. I'm not trying to be snarky here I have never seen the need is all.
I get way better results if I hit every grit i.e. 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, 400. You can skip a grit if you want i.e. 100, 150, 220, 400. However, I find it takes longer and the results aren't as good as using all of the grits.
Looks great! One of the best things about your channel is all of the interesting info on finishes, I always learn something. It's a part of the build that isn't covered nearly as well by other guitar building channels. Thanks for the videos!
My only question is, will it develop a patina like nitro? I really want my project to develop character over time with use/age.
Do you mean turn yellow and crack? No.
Thanks for another awesome video Chris! I'm a new builder and your channel is a huge help. My next build has an exotic top and will be using this technique :)
👍 nice job, can I apply this over a lacquered surface?
Yes you can! Be sure to scuff sand the lacquer and maybe test in an inconspicuous spot first.
I've had my eye on this solarez product for a little while now. I think it's time to give it a shot, all the results that I've seen so far have been impressive plus the time savings seems amazing. Thanks Chris for your thorough reviews and instructions it really helps us smaller shops to yield professional results.
Hi Chris. I wish this product was for sale in Europe. The only link i could find was in the UK, but not this product. Solarez seems to be a company that makes primarely finishes for surfing boards. They can't ship it, because it's a liquid. And if they could.. it would cost you with shipping and import cost, 4 x the price. Same with Amazon and that other product you showed once.. the flat out flat mat finish. Besides from Amazon,, 8 out of the 10 products, you can't order. Even guitar hardware. Amazon is so stupid to do that. Greets from Belgium.
this is FREAKIN' awesome . . I do love the oil-rubbed finish, but who want to wait days or weeks for the stuff to dry . . . thanks for posting. Q: How does the Solarez "I can't believe . . ." behave OVER epoxy . . is that something you've played around with, and if so, are there any issues ?
I don’t know. You’ll have to test it.
Roughly how many bodies and necks could you get out of a quart of Solarez using this technique?
Maybe 10.
@@HighlineGuitars Great thanks for reply. That's pretty good. I live in Australia and it's a bit expensive and tricky to get down here right now (this might be changing). So I was trying to work out a basic cost per guitar. It would be roughly $13-$15 /guitar for me at these prices. But considering the time saved on not waiting for paint or oil to cure that's still a win. I used to work in the finish department at Taylor where we used UV curable poly resin. I would take 4 bodys and necks start to finish in one day. After working with the speed and benefits of UV curable finishes I don't want to go back.
I'm guessing it's not possible to tint this stuff because it messes with the UV curing process? I also heard through the grapevine we might see a matte version of ICBINL some day. That would be ideal!!
Love what you do Chris.... Your videos are a huge help and inspiration.
Interesting. I am looking for a finish for my just completed Tenor Uke and up coming Uke & Classical Guitar. This might be it. I want easy to apply with minimal equipment required.
Would you consider this to be a good finish for a neck?
I see no reason why it wouldn't work well for a neck. However, I prefer the look and feel of boiled linseed oil.
Solarez are TERRIBLE to reach. Ive been trying to get their products for months in the UK and so far.. nothing!
Looks like walnut? Beautiful piece of wood. I really need to try this product, thanks Chris.
About how much Solarez do you need to do one body and neck? It's sold in either 4oz or 1pint. Is 4oz enough or will I need the pint?
At least a pint.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks so much! In this video you mention that you're going to show 3 ways to fake an oil finish. I found this Solarez one, and the water-based one. Is there another?
@@treymitchell5229 No. Just the two.
How durable is this finish?
Do is hold up better than an oil finish?
Yes.
I'll be using this on my next build.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I have a question about the feel of this finish. I have tested water based poly, tung oil and shellac so far. Water based poly feels plasticky and the thumb sticks a bit to the neck when playing. Shellac is my favourite as it is really soft to the touch and doesn't stick at all. How does the solarez product compare I that regards? Thanks for the great vids by the way!
In the next episode, I'll talk about this a little.
Looks amazing Chris! Thanks for sharing my friend, Like I always say best guitar channel on You Tube!!! 🎸🎸🎸👍
Is there a artificial UV light you could use to cure this product?
Yes, see their website for suitable lighting.
@@HighlineGuitars yes, I should have dug deeper on their website - I did find the info. Thank you. I ask because If I'm doing this in the dead of winter that might be a bit more comfortable.
Do you have any sort of UV filters on your shop lighting? Just curious, as I know white light does contain some uv. I've had Solarez and other UV resins start to get gummy in regular shop lighting.
Shop lights do not emit UV in the same spectrum needed for curing. Solarez requires 385nm UV to cure. If my shop lights put out that kind of UV, I would be one giant blob of skin cancer.
What's the composition of this product? My father once painted a boat with epoxy, looked great and tough but the epoxy cracked as it didn't allow for the wood to move.
It's not epoxy.
Great video. Not sure you'll see this comment/question since the video is so old, but I'll give it a shot anyway.
I was thinking of doing a wipe-on ploy finish for my current project using the approach you demo'd in your wipe-on poly video. Which finish to you prefer, wipe on poly, or this Solarez "hand-rubbed" finish in terms of durability, overall appearance? Both look pretty easy to execute. Thanks!
I prefer the Solarez as it is so much faster to apply.
@@HighlineGuitars Excellent. Thanks so much for the reply.
Would solarez grain sealer work the same way or is cant believe its not lacquer better? Also could I zpoxy then sand back to wood and apply polymerised tung oil what's the best route. I would like to send you pictures a guitar I finished building you helped me more than you know thanks
l, thanks for the $10! That helps me hopefully as much as I can help you. You can use the grain sealer if you want to fill the grain at the same time. If you want to keep the grain texture, you can use the ICBINL top coat. If you want to use polymerized tung oil, you could use Z-Poxy first to fill the grain like you mentioned, or you could rub in the PTO with 400 grit sandpaper, let it dry and apply each additional coat with progressively finer grits until you get to 1,500 grit. The sanding dust you generate will mix with the oil and fill the grain where it will dry just like a paste grain filler. Test on scrap!!
Do you suppose this would work to seal a maple fingerboard?
I cover that in part 2. ua-cam.com/video/5FTT80CLFQo/v-deo.html
Excellent video instant subscribe!
Another Great Tutorial.
Great Information. Keep up the good work.
Can I use this over a oil-based tent like in your earlier videos and just put this over that will it have a reaction to the art oil product or will it go on or will it look just fine
How does solarez smell after a full cure?
Solarez ICBINL has very little odor wet and none when cured.
thanks Chris! I’ll give this technique a whirl!
is there any disadvantage on this method over an oil finish with tug or lindseed??
The oil must be thoroughly cure first or you will have adhesion issues. Test on some scrap first!
I've been waiting for this video. I can't wait to use this stuff. Thank you
Great idea for a simple hand rubbed oil looking finish!! Thank you for sharing this wonderful line of UV finishes for wood!
Great vid. Can this technique be used over stains or other color mediums or can the solarez be tinted in any way?
Don't tint the Solarez. You can apply it directly over water and alcohol-based dyes and stains. If you want to apply it over oil-based stains, put down a barrier coat of shellac first.
Love that wood selection, awesome video sir, I would like to know where you get your wood to work with? Thank you.
Thanks for the video Chris. I’m going to try this on a roasted swamp ash body. Can you use this product as a grain filler as well or should I use the I can’t believe it’s not lacquer grain filler the apply this on top.
I would recommend Solarez ICBINL (test it first on scrap first!!) or Z-Poxy Finishing resin as a filler.
Is a little light shining through the edges of the garage door etc. an issue with premature curing? DIRECT sunlight, correct?
No. Correct.
Wow.....Very interesting product.......Do you know if they have a high gloss version of this product?.....I'd love to try it!!
Solarez "I can't believe it's not lacquer" is a high gloss product. Chris is applying it and finishing it in an alternative way. I've used this product and it yields a high gloss finish. Check out Chris' other videos about Solarez for more details...
Great idea, Chris
Thank you! Can that Solarez be used over oil based stain?
Yep. Make sure the stain has fully cured before you apply the Solarez.
That body looks great, really nice piece of wood and design.
I like this bc I'm not good at wet sanding and I have some of this product but haven't applied it to a body but will now because i normally use oil finish . have you found two coats are good?
Yeah, two coats are fine.
This is a great technique. Thanks. Do you have a video of how you made your buffing station?
ua-cam.com/video/qHvHcbOtg3s/v-deo.html
I tried your technique Chris and it worked beautifully...on the headstock. But I can't get the same shine on the body. I think where I got off track is I sanded away all the Solarez when level sanding and got down to bare wood. Now I have a few coats of paste wax on the thing (thinking it would buff to a shine). I guess all I'm left with is to sand all that wax off, re-solarez it and re-wax?
I use fish oil. Looks fantastic. Slick and smooth.
Of course, at our last gig, we were overrun by alley cats. So there's that.
I tried castor oil, but I ended up spending all night in the bathroom.
@@HighlineGuitars LOL.
Between the coats of the Solarez you sanded lightly. Did you wipe it down with alcohol again to clean the dust off or just wipe with a dry cloth? Great vid.
A dry cloth or a tack rag works fine after lightly sanding.
Excellent video, great tips.
Beautiful wood selection and guitar design! Nice finish with less effort.
Very good video, very cool products
Is there a body build video I missed on this one??
How about using Watco Danish Oil which polymerizes and is beautiful and durable?
Danish oil is great if you can wait 3 days for the cure.
Highline Guitars: I’ve applied it per the container instructions and wiped it dry after application, assembled all of the hardware and set up and played the instrument while it continued to cure. There’s no stickiness or residue if it’s properly wiped down after penetrating for an hour. I like your idea, but I think this method deserves a chance too. Also, it’s much more durable and beautiful than non-polymerizing oils. I’ve been using it on guitars and piano cases since the early 1970’s and have had great results. You can apply it over oil base paste wood filler (stain the filler the color you want the grain to be) and it will seal the filler to the wood.
Try it again if you haven’t used it in a while. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the results. Also, use only WATCO DANISH OIL for good results. Other brands do not give the same results and can remain sticky.
Thanks for your great videos. I’m putting my first Strat kit together from Thefretwire. It’s not too expensive and if I get it to play well, I will upgrade the components. I will be using several of your videos as the frets need a lot of work. A couple of questions please. The body is already pretty smooth. Do you still recommend starting with 80 grit paper? My favorite feeling neck is a roasted maple, will the boiled linseed oil finish get me close to that natural feel? Thanks again for your very educational videos! Ordering the Solarez today. Looks like a really cool option.
Thats probably the sexiest looking guitar body i have seen in a long time....the top is just ridiculous...as far as the finish i found out that i can get similar results with just thin superglue.....you can go from just grain filling to a light sheen to a high gloss finish pretty fast too.....although that solarez finish looks just as good.The only problem is the eternal one with guitar building........sanding.....and sanding...and sanding....lol.
Hi Chris, question: if the wood is porous would you have done the same technique with just the Solarez ICBINL-G only, or a combo of -G and -B? (-B is in the link).
At $35 a pint I can't see using this stuff for anything other than an emergency. Compare it with boiled linseed oil at around $10 a pint and I, personally, prefer the look of BLO.
Same here.
Let's say you get 10 guitars out of a pint. Is it worth $2.50 a guitar to have the finish ready in the same day instead of four weeks or more of it sitting around waiting to cure?
@@jimfromoh8944 as I stated, I like the look of boiled linseed oil better. I use it all the time and it never has taken more than a few days to cure and it is 1/3rd the price. Unboiled linseed oil would take longer to cure but not boiled. It is not really actually "boiled". That name refers to the chemicals added to help it cure quicker.
@@jimfromoh8944 despite what any video says, if you're waiting four weeks for any finish to cure, you are doing it very wrong.
One thing using this method you are spending less than half the labor time not to www.collingsguitars.com/img/instrument-detail/neck-profile-diagrams/modified-v-neck-profile-lg.pngmention the wait time for oil and lacquer finishes
Guitar looks great! Wondering if Solarez has a clear product for polyurethane painted guitars?
This product is clear.
My question is, would you recommend this solarez product or do they make something else that you would use as clear coat for a polyurethane paint finish?
Thanks again Chris !! :)
as always, great detail in your vids, thanks for sharing! Heard of Crimson Guitars in the UK?, they have great youtube videos! Great passion for the Craft too!😎👌✨🎸
How much would one need to do an entire guitar? Would a 4 oz. bottle be enough? It is also available in 1 pint cannisters, however, the shipping costs to Europe quickly becomes excessive.
whats up with the brown mess in the middle, looks horrible
402 thumbs up and counting. And based on the comments so far, I'd say you're in the minority. Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so there is that.😉
Hey Chris, do you think this could be done with solarez polyester? Scraping it off super thin before curing I mean. Thank you for all your help.
Beautiful guitar but you really only need to sand with 220 and 400 you’re not going to make wood any smoother unless there is serious gouges 220 then 400. Love the guitar 👍👍👍
Can I use that type of lacquer on a metal flake finish on a guitar body it's called Pearl Mist it's made by Rustoleum I want to put a clear coat on it I'm wondering if that would work?
That top is stunning!
Hi Chris.
Thank you fir your greatly infornative videos. I wait for tgem to appear.
I would like to order Solarez for a clear finish over crimson guitar stains for my maple build stratocaster. Will the 4 oz bottle they sell suffice for one guitar ? I am asking because I am shipping it overseas and want to keep the shipping to a minimum. Thank you. If you can give me a link to the high gloss product at 4 oz I would greatlt appreciate that.
This is awesome
I really enjoyed this vid, Chris! Do you have a video that shows how you make this type of figured top? I really want to make something similar for my current project guitar, but I'm new to building, so I'm not sure exactly how to go about this. Thanks in advance!
Hey Chris, great step by step instruction, and great looking result! Q: After applying the 2nd coat and 800 p spot sanding did, you clean it up with denatured alcohol, or air dust it off (like done after the first coat/sanding)? Not sure how denatured alcohol would affect or make the Solarez react. One other question, would you say that a 4oz bottle of this would cover what you did here? Thanks!
Based on your videos I ordered “Solarex I can’t believe…” material. But now I’m a little unsure as how to proceed because this does not show any grain filler being applied. What am I missing? This, for my purposes as a novice, seems to be the best approach to get the results I can live with without the fear of messing up. Any clarification would be appreciated, (yet again). Thanks
I need you to clarify your comment. What are you asking?
@@HighlineGuitars I was questioning whether I need the Solarez grain sealer. I ordered sealer and the “I can’t believe..” products. After watching the vid I am not sure I need the sealer first.
I’m not a kid but this life experience is new to me and I’ve learned to proceed with caution in new ventures.
Bottom line is do I apply the sealer when I plan on using the Solarez lacquer too?
@@frankieu2598 yes
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks brother…”And away we go!” (Jackie Gleason)
im repainting a old ovation guitar top,now i went up to 3000 and let the original coat of paint there ,is this to fine to paint ? should i go tback down to 500 grit you think ?
Great video, as are the rest of your material. I have a question, and it’s probably something that most people in the field of this know (I’m very new to this). My question is: Before I wipe on the Solarez, can I add a stain to the wood, or would that complicate things?
Excellent, you just showed me a new finish to use. I agree with others that body is beautiful! I did a stain rub on poly guitar. then furniture wax and car polish. It looks amazing!
Can I apply this method to a sunburst rubbed dye, which will be applied after sanding
So I tried out the Solarez product in the sprayable version and it feels gummy, almost waxy after sitting in noon sunlight on a full sunny day. I rubbed it in just as you instructed Chris. I let it cure for 3 minutes then 10. I let it cure for up to 20 minutes at one point with no change. I called Solarez and they're sending me the brushable product, but in the meantime I need to get this gummy mess off. I'm sanding but it gums up the sandpaper. Has anyone had this problem? Solvents such as Naptha and alcohol don't work. I'm open to ideas.
I realize you posted this two years ago, but I'm having the same problem with the brush on version. The grain filler is excellent and cures hard even in the Canadian winter sunshine, but I haven't been able to get the brush on formula to do the same. It leaves a soft residue. I'm going to contact the company, as I've tried this many times and it hasn't worked once. On their site they mention this happens when the solarez doesn't find sufficient sunshine immediately, but that the product under the film will be fully cured. I'm getting it into the sun the same way I am with their grain filler, so that's not the issue. Am I supposed to clear this film after every coat? No way.
Looks great.
Is it possible to put it on stained wood?
M Pat, would ALSO like to know if it can be used on stained wood; water based or otherwise. Thanks for asking the question.
M Pat, just read up on it on a guitar site I frequent for finish work; a long time user says NO to oil based stains but yes to dyes; also suggests NOT on soft wood because it cracks with impacts/dents, which soft wood is more prone to.
Excellent video and process. Thank you so much for sharing.
I have been trying to find a good way to work with Solarez - this cracked the nut for me! Thank you sir! Going to try the next body this way! :) Great way to think beyond the norm!
So it's not necessary to apply the Solarez I can't... Grain sealer first? does the regular I can't believe it's not lacquer will seal the wood as well?
You can if you want to fill the grain, but it isn't necessary. Solarez Grain Sealer/Filler is just a thicker version.
Thanks a million for the tutorial. This is my first attempt with solarez and it seems pretty easy but I have an issue. My project is a tropical black walnut firebird. While I was waxing I noticed a small spot Where I must have rubbed through the solarez and the wax made it stand out. Have I totally screwed myself with the wax? I know I need to get the wax off, provided I get it off as good as one can will I have issues with the solar Rez sticking?
Try removing the wax with naphtha.
Hi there, i´m new to the channel. Very interesting information!
I´ve used wax on a SG body and it looks so good, have to come back to a quick buff from time to time though, i didn´t sealed it.
Also, i aged it with iron oxide before aplying the wax and i was very pleased with the results! It´s a bit unpredictable when it comes to guess the final color but it works very well. I´m curious to know your thoughts on aging wood with iron oxide!
Thank you for your time.
No thoughts from me. It’s not something I would ever want to do.
You think this will ship to Europe?. Looks fantastic, hard to believe it's a 2 hour job. What would happen if you keep building coats? Maybe you could take it to high gloss, but it's great the way it is now. Wish I could try it.
Afaik, I've heard they ship worldwide and you just have to contact them via mail or the website.
Gorgeous guitar body. And I love the look of the final result you've shown here.
Again I have grown in knowledge thanks to your willingness to teach. Thank you. Question; if I am building an acoustic guitar with a spruce top can I use the solar rez product. I'm looking for that satin dullish finish.
Yes. Solarez actually developed this product with acoustic builders in mind.
Great video! I assume there is no need for a filler? Also any advice for applying this product on a Buckeye burl/black limba body?
I consider grain filler to be an option. Only use it if you want a smooth surface without any grain or pore texture. As for advice on your combo, the only thing I can add is to try and test on scrap if you have some to see how it will look to you. If you don't have any scraps for testing just be aware that Solarez will darken the wood and enhance the grain. Each additional coat will add to that effect. After applying the first coat if you decide you don't like how it looks, you can easily sand it off back down to the raw wood and apply a wood stain or dye first before you apply the Solarez.
Another great video, thank you. Really helps to watch someone do it, rather than just reading a few sentences of instructions.
Nice! Thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to the next segment on applying this finish to the neck.
Can you build that up to a high gloss finish if you apply several layers?
Thanks for the video. I'm always looking for alternatives to spraying finishes. Tru-Oil has been my favorite rub on finish so far, but it's hard to get in California.
Mosstone yes, but use a brush or use the spray formula.
wonder if this technique would work for the Solarez Polyester?
That was cool. Love oil finishes. But they can be high maintenance.
Could you use UV lights to cure the product? Living in Canada, makes it tough to bring a product like that outside in the winter.
Yes, you can. Contact Solarez to find out what kind of lights they recommend.
Hey - these videos are incredibly helpful. Can you recommend a grain filler to use under this stuff? I'm looking for a single product I can use on both an alder body and a mahogany neck.
www.solarez.com/product/i-cant-believe-its-not-lacquer-g-copy/
Wow, this is stunning, will try this technique on my current build. Thank you Chris!