Nice. If you're using a smaller torch like this It's good to heat the majority of the pipe up a bit first though. That way the cold pipe doesn't rob as much heat from the repair site.
Just waiting for the bang. The pipes often have carbon etc in the chamber and the heat can mix with the air making an explosive atmosphere. On my older pipes I used to de-coke the header with oxy acetylene with a bit of CO2 running in the end to prevent hilarity. Alternately I de-coked an old IT200 tailpipe with oxygen and a bit of lit cardboard. Once the bit of cardboard was dropped into the chamber I ran the oxygen that burned the cardboard quickly away but it ran long enough to set the coke alight. I was able to lower the oxygen and near pinpoint the oxygen on the burning soot getting the muffler red hot in places. As the original tailpipe had spiral anti spark chambers built in, the pipe went from what appeared to be one exit and 10 little holes, to a larger centre exit, and a set of spiral fins around it. (I later replaced the 1 ton original with an alloy packed shorty anyway but it was a fun experiment). My fix for header dents was drill a hole in the back, use oxy acetylene to heat the dent, push the dent out from the inside with a punch through the hole, weld up the hole. WAY less gas used, Way less heat damage... a little more lumpy result but overall smoother gas flow within (no big left over crease to cause reverb inside). Another downside to such a long heat process with 70psi+ inside... You can stretch the chamber out as it softens and tries to straighten out. You can also get it too hot and blow out a hole, which you can imagine the result of pumping a bike tyre to 70PSI and having it rupture...
You need to keep your mouth shut if you don’t know what your talking about. The welds can only withstand a max of 80psi. 40psi is suppose to be the max air pressure.
@@anthonysupplee858 the water displaces the heat. Not saying you’re wrong with the 400 psi, just that water doesn’t cause huge amounts of thermal expansion like air.
You can polish it but I find the nickel plated pipes stay dull (oxidize) and rust a little at the heat points. For single dents you can sometimes drill the back, tap the dent out from behind then fill the hole. looks a little rough but the hole/weld is out of sight and you keep the plating. On one that was a particular mess I bade a stainless "Shield" that looked neat, you just had to clear the mud out from behind it.
You need to increase air pressure to 150 psi and heat the dent to cherry red, and it will form back to original shape, check video ua-cam.com/video/UYXNp9mQR6o/v-deo.html
Nice. If you're using a smaller torch like this It's good to heat the majority of the pipe up a bit first though. That way the cold pipe doesn't rob as much heat from the repair site.
Just waiting for the bang.
The pipes often have carbon etc in the chamber and the heat can mix with the air making an explosive atmosphere.
On my older pipes I used to de-coke the header with oxy acetylene with a bit of CO2 running in the end to prevent hilarity.
Alternately I de-coked an old IT200 tailpipe with oxygen and a bit of lit cardboard. Once the bit of cardboard was dropped into the chamber I ran the oxygen that burned the cardboard quickly away but it ran long enough to set the coke alight. I was able to lower the oxygen and near pinpoint the oxygen on the burning soot getting the muffler red hot in places.
As the original tailpipe had spiral anti spark chambers built in, the pipe went from what appeared to be one exit and 10 little holes, to a larger centre exit, and a set of spiral fins around it.
(I later replaced the 1 ton original with an alloy packed shorty anyway but it was a fun experiment).
My fix for header dents was drill a hole in the back, use oxy acetylene to heat the dent, push the dent out from the inside with a punch through the hole, weld up the hole.
WAY less gas used, Way less heat damage... a little more lumpy result but overall smoother gas flow within (no big left over crease to cause reverb inside).
Another downside to such a long heat process with 70psi+ inside... You can stretch the chamber out as it softens and tries to straighten out.
You can also get it too hot and blow out a hole, which you can imagine the result of pumping a bike tyre to 70PSI and having it rupture...
Better off to spend the dough on hydro kit. It pushes out the dents and straightens the pipe. Woods riders know what I mean.
I don't think the map gas torch is hot enough . One guy used a oxy acetylene torch thing popped out in seconds
Stainless can be buffed . But we just left it marked .
Is it Stainless? usually they are just plated.
@@TheButlerNZ just plated
you need more air presure
and more heat !
You need to keep your mouth shut if you don’t know what your talking about. The welds can only withstand a max of 80psi. 40psi is suppose to be the max air pressure.
The Hydro force repair kit pumps them to 400-500psi. But hey, your reply sounded cool.
@@Quadguy83 shut your mouth
@@anthonysupplee858 the water displaces the heat. Not saying you’re wrong with the 400 psi, just that water doesn’t cause huge amounts of thermal expansion like air.
So where's the end result? Fkn waste of time.
It made me jump too hahaha
Nice work!!
I made exhaust too, look my video
How do you remove the heat marks from the pipe made by the flame?
You can polish it but I find the nickel plated pipes stay dull (oxidize) and rust a little at the heat points.
For single dents you can sometimes drill the back, tap the dent out from behind then fill the hole. looks a little rough but the hole/weld is out of sight and you keep the plating.
On one that was a particular mess I bade a stainless "Shield" that looked neat, you just had to clear the mud out from behind it.
100psig and a little more heat.
How many pressur in the pipe?
2 pressur I dink
You need to increase air pressure to 150 psi and heat the dent to cherry red, and it will form back to original shape, check video ua-cam.com/video/UYXNp9mQR6o/v-deo.html
100 lbs of pressure works better
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