Dave thanks for the detailed video. USMC mountain warfare didn't explain as well as you. Yes learn by mistakes but also freeze your butt off learning the simple secrets of Time prep, and the extra little board bottom divet for air! Semper Fi
Really appreciate the knowledge my friend. You have opened my eyes to the idea of feeling comfortable and prepared for life outside the "safety" of city borders. Without you.. I would not be independant. For this and many other things.. I Thank You
Dave thank you for always returning to the primitive fire videos. I like how you always stress the basics and really enjoy watching these type of instructions over and over. Video is definitely not drawn out or to much detail, I think it is perfect.
Dave, I have been a huge fan of yours for a long time but this video was the best fire making demonstration I have ever seen with a bow and drill Enjoyed part 1 and part 2 very much
I really enjoyed both of those videos. The little things is what I need to work on and I love how you broke them down and instead of just breezing through it. Thank you.
Thank you for this Dave! I have to say, your method of teaching has evolved over the years, even your tone of voice has become much calmer. Thanks again for your efforts to teach us! Greetings from Romania!
Another good video, thanks for showing how prepping is key and how once the coal is formed to relax and let the ember form. That was a key point for me, as not to rush or panic once the ember is there, letting it form up a little.
Dave I enjoyed you video, thank you for being so thorough with your explanations of the types of woods to use and your step by step run threw of the process, I will be taking these instructions with me in a week to try to duplicate this fire making skill, thanks again.
You really are a great teacher. Maybe one day I will be able to make it to the gathering or one of your training sessions. Thanks for all that you do and I will continue to support you in the ways that I can.
You are an awesome instructor! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I am so delighted that you are blessed w/ your skills, able to instruct, a good wife, and have a nice piece of property to raise and grow food. Plus, have various courses on the ability to survive off the land. I always learn and enjoy your videos. Best wishes, Gary
Once again another awesome video with great instruction like always.Never tried to do this so now i am looking foward to this with confidence and patience...Thanks Dave.
excellent job great to see even with the vast amount of skill you have gained over the years that it is constantly being polished and improved, this is probably one of the best dow drill fire videos out there, it addressed all aspects of a succesful bow drill fire. great job
Thanks for this great video. Lately I've been really interested in this technique and I find your instructions to be the best I've watched. Can't wait to give this a try -Jacko
Great content and clear instruction. Production A+. Can't wait to try my first bow drill fire next time in the field. Hope I never need it but bragging rights are at stake. Keep up the great work!
I have a question about the Tarred Mariner's rope: I'm assuming that the tar is giving it excellent grip on the spindle so that it rotates the spindle and not just slipping around it? what if we had to fashion cordage off the land wouldn't it likely lack the same grip to turn the spindle as efficiently as the mariners rope? I'm assuming you could coat it with something to give it better grip?Sap maybe? what else could work? When you cut the spindle down do you try to have cylindrical or with clear edges like a pencil?? Thank you for this series Mr.Canterbury and all that you do and allowing this resource to exist and pass on wonderful knowledge to people who probably wouldn't have the chance or given bushcraft the chance had it not been for you.
Hello Dave Well carved! I have always taken as a piece of a dry brooks but e is very hard to find a good print piece, I will like you to sometimes take a green wood. Thank cools video. LG Remo
Dave, just wondering, would adding a dap of the fixin' wax to the bearing block help reduce the friction on the bearing block, and make it last longer also?
So I was making lots of smoke, a lot of powder, but no ember from my cedar board and spindle. After watching your vids I think I see that I cut my notch to deep. Thanks for the training.
probably the best bow drill explanation i have seen on you tube i like to rub a leave into the bearing block hole to give a little lube if the block is dry works great
You kept brushing the dust away that was created when you made the V-notch. Would that dust help or hinder if put under the V-notch to catch the ember as it fell through to the bottom catch stick? Hope this makes sence. I know the technique is as old as the dinosaur but would that dust help I wonder... Thanks Dave. I know a bit about your life and background and just the guy you are now and I think your TOP NOTCH!! I hope you continue to make videos for a long time!
Hey Dave, great video. I saw on a recent show, a survivalist use a skateboard wheel for his bearing block. The ball bearings provided a zero friction pivot. Just a thought.
Great video Dave. Great detail and insight. I live in southern California and dont know of too many trees I can use besides Cottonwood. Any suggestions? Thanks
very good video.... In South Africa we sometimes put a slug into the divot of the bearing block.... prevents friction and heating. Just a small tip ( but is obviously not essential - it just helps abit) Nice Viodeo... thanks!
Hey Dave, I'm always impressed with your knowledge. I'm not sure if you would consider this, but it would be nice if in your instructions you added reasons why other methods may not be as beneficial as what you're doing. For instance, I see some people cut their notch halfway into their spindle hole. I know it's not always easy because often there is more than one way to skin a coyote, but you always have a particular way of doing things and I'm usually interested in why you do something your way versus how I see other do it. Just a thought. Thanks for your videos. Keep up the good work.
Well done Dave! This was way better than the last FF vid of yours I saw. I have watched a lot of friction fire vids, I know a good one when I see one and this was superb. You covered a lot on this one that many people just overlook. It is those little things that make all the difference. ps. Your trapping series is also superb. Good stuff man, good stuff
Is it a viable option to put some sort of lubricant between the bearing block and the spindle; such as: lard, tallow, beeswax, petroleum jelly? Will this cut down on some the friction up top or not enough to make it worth the resource spent?
Have you broken that bushcraft black batoning with it or seen one break that way yet ? I've broken a mora classic that way (on oak anyway, not soft poplar) and ended up turning the blade into a patch knife. I'm thinking of picking up a b.b. for a back-up, since my current backup is an old $20 tactical fixed blade which i've modified extensively ( filed the coating off the back of the spine, filed a finger choil into it using a rat tail file and a half round file, and put a bow drill socket into the handle using the "10 cent method" (I drilled into the micarta handle with a 1/2" bit and then epoxied into the socket a dime which i made concave by clamping between the ball end of a ball peen hammer and a 12 point socket). I mod all my knives that way now. But its still stainless, so i can never drive sparks from it if i need to. In a dire emergency, i could just make a bow drill set with it, and i've already got a very low friction bearing block at my disposal, but being able to drive sparks off it would be much faster.
Dave, Great video on the bow drill part 1 and 2. I have been a big fan since you and Cody did dual survival. The one question I have is why the tar coated cord versus a cordage like 550 cord? Is it the fact that the marinar cord with the tar coating prevents the cord from slipping on the drill? Just wanted some clarification. Again, great video’s from a long time fan.
Dave, my man. You have done this FAR too many times lol. It's like second nature to you :) As always a great bid, easy to follow. Thx again for all you do.
I've usually seen the notch cut to the center or nearly to the center of the divot. Your notch is much shallower. Obviously it worked. Was it the kind of wood or is there another reason for the shallow divot? Have you tried cutting the divot deeper?
Ian Bjorkman It was free for me and you. Sure he gets paid, but its like tv in the old days. You get it free due to the adds placed on it. Whats wrong with him making a million dollars a vid (not that he does obviously, but so what if he did)? Advertisers are paying his paycheck.
The best bow drill vid in the youtube even better then Ray Mears and thats a colpliment, Dave your best work yeat you hit the spot wery educative an useful and importan detales espesily the chois of wood. Thak you and keep them comming!!
so I have a few questions about some things I have been trying out but I would like a professional opinion.. i have been making arrows out of cattail but they are very light and the knock where the string goes just gets destroyed.. so i have been thinking about making the shaft out of cattain, with holes in either end (reinforced with sinew) where i would insert a blunt tip or stone and a harder wood.. i have tried this and i think it works quite well but i am no professional and i don't know if the arrows are too light or too flexible.. i have tried making arrows from shoots of unidentified trees/bushes but it takes way too long to find a good enough shaft, shape it, and straiten it.. that is why i am very interested in finding a way to maker cattails work.. at least for the shaft.. any opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Dave off topic, but you did a video awhile ago about a little break open over under 22/410 pack rifle. I can't find the video. Could you please tell me what that gun is called?
If it's the one I'm thinking of it's the Springfield scout m6. Holds shells in the stock right? It's no longer made unfortunately but you may find it on gunbroker. I had one that I lost in a house fire, amoung others, sad day. FYI gun safes are rated for a temp for certain time, problem is if the fire dept doesn't show up you are sol.
Dave thanks for the detailed video. USMC mountain warfare didn't explain as well as you. Yes learn by mistakes but also freeze your butt off learning the simple secrets of Time prep, and the extra little board bottom divet for air!
Semper Fi
Really appreciate the knowledge my friend.
You have opened my eyes to the idea of feeling comfortable and prepared for life outside the "safety" of city borders.
Without you.. I would not be independant.
For this and many other things.. I Thank You
Dave thank you for always returning to the primitive fire videos. I like how you always stress the basics and really enjoy watching these type of instructions over and over. Video is definitely not drawn out or to much detail, I think it is perfect.
This is outstanding series, one of the best presentations of the details to understand primitive fire., well done Dave.
Dave just made the bow drill technique look so effortless. great video Dave!
Dave, I have been a huge fan of yours for a long time but this video was the best fire making demonstration I have ever seen with a bow and drill
Enjoyed part 1 and part 2 very much
I really enjoyed both of those videos. The little things is what I need to work on and I love how you broke them down and instead of just breezing through it. Thank you.
Excellent Dave. I don't get tired of your videos. Very instructive! Keep it up.
Thank you for this Dave! I have to say, your method of teaching has evolved over the years, even your tone of voice has become much calmer. Thanks again for your efforts to teach us! Greetings from Romania!
Another good video, thanks for showing how prepping is key and how once the coal is formed to relax and let the ember form. That was a key point for me, as not to rush or panic once the ember is there, letting it form up a little.
Dave I enjoyed you video, thank you for being so thorough with your explanations of the types of woods to use and your step by step run threw of the process, I will be taking these instructions with me in a week to try to duplicate this fire making skill, thanks again.
You really are a great teacher. Maybe one day I will be able to make it to the gathering or one of your training sessions. Thanks for all that you do and I will continue to support you in the ways that I can.
Best explanation of this process ever. Thanks Dave.
Thanks Dave, really enjoying the series. Great that you did it primitive method first.
Enjoyed watching you making and the procedure it takes to starting a fire with a Bo Drill.
Dave, Thanks for taking the time.....
Loving this series. Thanks for posting.
Ok now I am encouraged to go try it again. Thanks Dave. Great video!
Outstanding, Dave! This is one of the most helpful videos I've seen in months. Can't wait to get back out and tweak my bow/drill system! Thanks!
You are an awesome instructor! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I am so delighted that you are blessed w/ your skills, able to instruct, a good wife, and have a nice piece of property to raise and grow food. Plus, have various courses on the ability to survive off the land. I always learn and enjoy your videos. Best wishes, Gary
This might be an older video but it also proves the best skills never get old.. only better... awesome video Dave
I enjoyed watching you make the components needed for making a fire using the bow drill.
Classic Dave. Take me back to when I first start watching your channel. Love the video. Keep up the good work and God bless.
That was the most detailed bow drill video I've seen man..! Very nice...smoothing it Dave...thx
An excellent video on this Dave ! I got it on my first try. Preparation is everything.. thank you.
Another great video, thankyou for your knowledge and experience and thanks very much for sharing it . Blessings to you and your family .
Once again another awesome video with great instruction like always.Never tried to do this so now i am looking foward to this with confidence and patience...Thanks Dave.
Hell ya..........Old School.......and yes Wal-Mart bank line SUX.........
Got that right
You can also rub the socket end of the spindle against the side of your nose. The oil from your skin helps lubricate.
Thanks. Another great video. Answered a problem I've had with the hand block heating up and smoking. Thanks.
best primitive fire video I've seen.
Thank you Dave.
God bless brother.
Excellent. I've played with before and I can tell he knows what he is talking about. Thank you very much :)
Part 1 and 2 very well done. Thumbsup buddy
Great series Dave, like many others I really appreciate it.
Thank You
Ron Hood would be proud! Thanks Hi Gus and Christina!!!!
Dave,
Great video. This is really informative, and the details are good and clear.
Best Bow Drill Video I Have Seen.
Thanks for this series, Dave. I am learning a lot. Keep up the channel, your videos are great!
excellent job great to see even with the vast amount of skill you have gained over the years that it is constantly being polished and improved, this is probably one of the best dow drill fire videos out there, it addressed all aspects of a succesful bow drill fire. great job
Top notch video Dave and a great service to your viewers. You need to stay in front of the camera. Thanks for another lesson.
Thanks for this great video. Lately I've been really interested in this technique and I find your instructions to be the best I've watched. Can't wait to give this a try
-Jacko
Awesome... Great all all inclusive video for this subject. It's much appreciated friend.
Great content and clear instruction. Production A+. Can't wait to try my first bow drill fire next time in the field. Hope I never need it but bragging rights are at stake. Keep up the great work!
I have a question about the Tarred Mariner's rope: I'm assuming that the tar is giving it excellent grip on the spindle so that it rotates the spindle and not just slipping around it? what if we had to fashion cordage off the land wouldn't it likely lack the same grip to turn the spindle as efficiently as the mariners rope? I'm assuming you could coat it with something to give it better grip?Sap maybe? what else could work? When you cut the spindle down do you try to have cylindrical or with clear edges like a pencil?? Thank you for this series Mr.Canterbury and all that you do and allowing this resource to exist and pass on wonderful knowledge to people who probably wouldn't have the chance or given bushcraft the chance had it not been for you.
Hello Dave
Well carved!
I have always taken as a piece of a dry brooks but e is very hard to find a good print piece, I will like you to sometimes take a green wood.
Thank cools video.
LG Remo
had ALL theze plans today .... afternoon rain comin' .... maybe be bow drill playin' later
Dave, just wondering, would adding a dap of the fixin' wax to the bearing block help reduce the friction on the bearing block, and make it last longer also?
So I was making lots of smoke, a lot of powder, but no ember from my cedar board and spindle.
After watching your vids I think I see that I cut my notch to deep.
Thanks for the training.
probably the best bow drill explanation i have seen on you tube
i like to rub a leave into the bearing block hole to give a little lube if the block is dry works great
It's an awesome video, very detailed.
You kept brushing the dust away that was created when you made the V-notch. Would that dust help or hinder if put under the V-notch to catch the ember as it fell through to the bottom catch stick? Hope this makes sence. I know the technique is as old as the dinosaur but would that dust help I wonder...
Thanks Dave. I know a bit about your life and background and just the guy you are now and I think your TOP NOTCH!!
I hope you continue to make videos for a long time!
Nice video.
Very good explanation, full of details as usual.
It seem to me that spring has came.
Cloudy Regards from southern Spain.
Excellent video.. I can't wait to practice this skill this summer..
Aaaaaand off to try this! Awesome video! Perfect school.
Hey Dave, great video. I saw on a recent show, a survivalist use a skateboard wheel for his bearing block. The ball bearings provided a zero friction pivot. Just a thought.
like your emphasis on knife safety!
Great video Dave. Great detail and insight.
I live in southern California and dont know of too many trees I can use besides Cottonwood.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
thanks for going into such detail. lots of good tips.
i needed this vid 40 years ago
Great video, Thanks Dave
very good video.... In South Africa we sometimes put a slug into the divot of the bearing block.... prevents friction and heating. Just a small tip ( but is obviously not essential - it just helps abit) Nice Viodeo... thanks!
Hey Dave, I'm always impressed with your knowledge. I'm not sure if you would consider this, but it would be nice if in your instructions you added reasons why other methods may not be as beneficial as what you're doing. For instance, I see some people cut their notch halfway into their spindle hole. I know it's not always easy because often there is more than one way to skin a coyote, but you always have a particular way of doing things and I'm usually interested in why you do something your way versus how I see other do it. Just a thought. Thanks for your videos. Keep up the good work.
Great instrucions. Thank you for showing. I like your Mora Knife.
Well done Dave! This was way better than the last FF vid of yours I saw. I have watched a lot of friction fire vids, I know a good one when I see one and this was superb. You covered a lot on this one that many people just overlook. It is those little things that make all the difference.
ps. Your trapping series is also superb. Good stuff man, good stuff
well done Dave, cristal!
EXCELENT VID! by far your best one since starting your subscription page!
This was an excellent video. Thanks
Dave thanks for all the great videos but does the "tarred set line" from Walmart mot have tar in it either
Is it a viable option to put some sort of lubricant between the bearing block and the spindle; such as: lard, tallow, beeswax, petroleum jelly? Will this cut down on some the friction up top or not enough to make it worth the resource spent?
Awesome stuff Dave.
Very useful video. Thanks dave
Have you broken that bushcraft black batoning with it or seen one break that way yet ? I've broken a mora classic that way (on oak anyway, not soft poplar) and ended up turning the blade into a patch knife. I'm thinking of picking up a b.b. for a back-up, since my current backup is an old $20 tactical fixed blade which i've modified extensively ( filed the coating off the back of the spine, filed a finger choil into it using a rat tail file and a half round file, and put a bow drill socket into the handle using the "10 cent method" (I drilled into the micarta handle with a 1/2" bit and then epoxied into the socket a dime which i made concave by clamping between the ball end of a ball peen hammer and a 12 point socket). I mod all my knives that way now. But its still stainless, so i can never drive sparks from it if i need to. In a dire emergency, i could just make a bow drill set with it, and i've already got a very low friction bearing block at my disposal, but being able to drive sparks off it would be much faster.
Excellent easy to follow lesson.
:-)
Dave,
Great video on the bow drill part 1 and 2. I have been a big fan since you and Cody did dual survival.
The one question I have is why the tar coated cord versus a cordage like 550 cord? Is it the fact that the marinar cord with the tar coating prevents the cord from slipping on the drill?
Just wanted some clarification. Again, great video’s from a long time fan.
Your awesome Dave .
Although a bow drill fire is the LAST way I'd want to build a fire, it's an awesome thing to know when you need it.
Dave, my man. You have done this FAR too many times lol. It's like second nature to you :) As always a great bid, easy to follow. Thx again for all you do.
You are amazing! Tell me how long did you have to run the bow drill
One question I have is concerning the knife you used, would a Rapala fish filleting knife work as good or should I upgrade?
I've usually seen the notch cut to the center or nearly to the center of the divot. Your notch is much shallower. Obviously it worked. Was it the kind of wood or is there another reason for the shallow divot? Have you tried cutting the divot deeper?
Great video :) Please make one like this for the hand drill!!!
What wood would you suggest here in Australia to use?
Great Video and Info Dave... I think the "Fire School" series is going to be awesome..!!
Hi ! Would fat or grease help to reduce friction at the spindle/grip-connection ?
Or maybe soak the "grip" in water for some time.
you're just awesome man, i'm glad i heard of you
Awesome series
Ok so now your copying every tip I do? LOL! Just kidding, all these tips are gold and thanks for teaching me these...for FREE!
Ian Bjorkman
It was free for me and you. Sure he gets paid, but its like tv in the old days. You get it free due to the adds placed on it. Whats wrong with him making a million dollars a vid (not that he does obviously, but so what if he did)? Advertisers are paying his paycheck.
Oh, ok. So many people fault Dave for making a living and I thought you were one of them. Yep he makes money from youtube, I wish I could to! :)
Man that worked like magic.
Tip or trick: Carve little knurling grooves in the spindle to grip the rope better !
I've found bankline in goose/duck hunting suppliers as a decoy line.
Love your vids David! Is that twisted bank line or braided?
Nice video!
The best bow drill vid in the youtube even better then Ray Mears and thats a colpliment, Dave your best work yeat you hit the spot wery educative an useful and importan detales espesily the chois of wood. Thak you and keep them comming!!
I like the moment of silence when the job was completed.
so I have a few questions about some things I have been trying out but I would like a professional opinion.. i have been making arrows out of cattail but they are very light and the knock where the string goes just gets destroyed.. so i have been thinking about making the shaft out of cattain, with holes in either end (reinforced with sinew) where i would insert a blunt tip or stone and a harder wood.. i have tried this and i think it works quite well but i am no professional and i don't know if the arrows are too light or too flexible.. i have tried making arrows from shoots of unidentified trees/bushes but it takes way too long to find a good enough shaft, shape it, and straiten it.. that is why i am very interested in finding a way to maker cattails work.. at least for the shaft.. any opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,nice ,god job. Regards from Lithuania
Would it be good to fire harden the bearing block end of your spindle, to harden it and keep it from wearing down and causing friction as easily?
was that the yurt in the background.
Dave off topic, but you did a video awhile ago about a little break open over under 22/410 pack rifle. I can't find the video. Could you please tell me what that gun is called?
If it's the one I'm thinking of it's the Springfield scout m6. Holds shells in the stock right? It's no longer made unfortunately but you may find it on gunbroker. I had one that I lost in a house fire, amoung others, sad day. FYI gun safes are rated for a temp for certain time, problem is if the fire dept doesn't show up you are sol.