A trick I've used in the past with glued in fasteners is to use a soldering iron (a fairly juicy one that might trip the breaker if anything significant was turned on at the same time on the same circuit) and it works fantastically well for el cheapo factory fabrication on other devices, especially ones with a circuit board attached or those pig metal screws that act like single use fasteners. Thread locker, ehh, not so much other than thermal cycling the joint. I've drilled out my share of screws and bolts, too. 😁 I was looking at this kit recently, maybe thinking about doing the x axis first. I was also toying with the idea of just using the hardware and getting third party linear rails to make a BIG machine. Undecided as of yet.
Fantastic video...........thank you for a real life update of installing kits that are on you tube where the company doesn't show the difficulties you may run into...........with all your issues, you did great and it's the same way i would have done it following the supplied instructions (expecting my kit soon and i got both x and y).....I have been there and done that on many other builds
Thank you! Their instructions are usually better than that. I was surprised there were missing steps and incorrect information. I hope all my mistakes and struggles help someone have an easier time putting everything together.
So far, I haven't had any issues with rigidity or deflection. But, I haven't run anything big. The oak coaster I made was cut in the middle of the bed. The issues I had with that were my fault. It was going WAY to fast for that wood. LOL But, in the end it was fixable.
Thank you so much! I’m glad I am not alone. Sainsmart is usually good with their instructions. I thought I was loosing it when I got to the end and hadn’t changed the cables yet. 🤣
Go to 16:35 in the video. I used a vice to hold the lead screw, then used pliers to carefully turn the collar on the motor until it unscrewed and came off. :)
@@renaissancewoodworking im stuck at this point. i got the lead screw to turn till its pretty loose. i even put the end of the lead screw in my cordless drill and had the coupling held still with a set of channel locks. its just spins and spins. im at my wits end. are you taking the coupling off the motor???? cant be because that would not give me the coupling for the new lead screw.
never mind. could not get the set screws to back out far enough. so i put the lead screw in the drill and let it rip the ends off the set screws. then put the motor coupling in a machine vise on my drill press and punched a small drill bit through both of them at once then used a propane torch to burn out the loctite and was able to back them out with a small screwdriver. thats only the first side. bout to tackle the other side now.
I have just done this upgrade and i am not happy with the results. An intended straight cut across the x-axis does not yeild a straight cut but instead an arc with a deflection of about 1.5mm or 1/16" in the middle. I have perforemed many tests to solve this issue but to no avail. I believe this is due to the linear rails not being stiff enough to suport the weight of the carriage + router (makita) therfore causing it to sag inwards in the middle where it is lease supported. I have been intouch with Sainsmart about this and have requested a full refund. I recommend not doing this upgrade, and if you already have, check an x-axis cut on your machine is actually straight. If anyone wants more info or images / video to explain this further, shoot me a DM.
HMMM....Maybe that is my issue? I will take a look. I've been so busy, I haven't had time to figure out why it's cutting so deep. I figured it was my uneven lumber as I was using 2x4s.
@@renaissancewoodworking Sounds like you need to level the spoil board if you haven't already? My issue is with straightness of cut, not depth. i.e. if i tried to cut a rectangle of say 500x100mm, when cutting the 500mm lines across the x axis they come out arced, not straight.
A trick I've used in the past with glued in fasteners is to use a soldering iron (a fairly juicy one that might trip the breaker if anything significant was turned on at the same time on the same circuit) and it works fantastically well for el cheapo factory fabrication on other devices, especially ones with a circuit board attached or those pig metal screws that act like single use fasteners. Thread locker, ehh, not so much other than thermal cycling the joint. I've drilled out my share of screws and bolts, too. 😁
I was looking at this kit recently, maybe thinking about doing the x axis first. I was also toying with the idea of just using the hardware and getting third party linear rails to make a BIG machine. Undecided as of yet.
Fantastic video...........thank you for a real life update of installing kits that are on you tube where the company doesn't show the difficulties you may run into...........with all your issues, you did great and it's the same way i would have done it following the supplied instructions (expecting my kit soon and i got both x and y).....I have been there and done that on many other builds
Thank you! Their instructions are usually better than that. I was surprised there were missing steps and incorrect information. I hope all my mistakes and struggles help someone have an easier time putting everything together.
I can't wait to upgrade mine, I just hope the accuracy/rigidity doesn't go down
So far, I haven't had any issues with rigidity or deflection. But, I haven't run anything big. The oak coaster I made was cut in the middle of the bed. The issues I had with that were my fault. It was going WAY to fast for that wood. LOL But, in the end it was fixable.
I had the same issues during the teardown. Grateful for the help on the FB page. I’m about 2/3 done with reassembly. Your videos are excellent.
Thank you so much! I’m glad I am not alone. Sainsmart is usually good with their instructions. I thought I was loosing it when I got to the end and hadn’t changed the cables yet. 🤣
Good video 🙃
Thank you very much!
Here is the link to the Sainsmart Extension www.sainsmart.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/xy-extension-kit-for-4040-pro
How did you get the lead bar off the motor?
Go to 16:35 in the video. I used a vice to hold the lead screw, then used pliers to carefully turn the collar on the motor until it unscrewed and came off. :)
@@renaissancewoodworking im stuck at this point. i got the lead screw to turn till its pretty loose. i even put the end of the lead screw in my cordless drill and had the coupling held still with a set of channel locks. its just spins and spins. im at my wits end. are you taking the coupling off the motor???? cant be because that would not give me the coupling for the new lead screw.
never mind. could not get the set screws to back out far enough. so i put the lead screw in the drill and let it rip the ends off the set screws. then put the motor coupling in a machine vise on my drill press and punched a small drill bit through both of them at once then used a propane torch to burn out the loctite and was able to back them out with a small screwdriver. thats only the first side. bout to tackle the other side now.
I have just done this upgrade and i am not happy with the results. An intended straight cut across the x-axis does not yeild a straight cut but instead an arc with a deflection of about 1.5mm or 1/16" in the middle. I have perforemed many tests to solve this issue but to no avail. I believe this is due to the linear rails not being stiff enough to suport the weight of the carriage + router (makita) therfore causing it to sag inwards in the middle where it is lease supported. I have been intouch with Sainsmart about this and have requested a full refund. I recommend not doing this upgrade, and if you already have, check an x-axis cut on your machine is actually straight. If anyone wants more info or images / video to explain this further, shoot me a DM.
HMMM....Maybe that is my issue? I will take a look. I've been so busy, I haven't had time to figure out why it's cutting so deep. I figured it was my uneven lumber as I was using 2x4s.
@@renaissancewoodworking Sounds like you need to level the spoil board if you haven't already? My issue is with straightness of cut, not depth. i.e. if i tried to cut a rectangle of say 500x100mm, when cutting the 500mm lines across the x axis they come out arced, not straight.