For me, the only thing more satisfying than restoring old machinery is watching somebody else restoring old machinery. Your channel is one of the best on youtube to find this stuff.
A surface with so many frosting will not slide easily ! Ô no ! ^^ More-over, frosting demand a re-finition of the slide do to the heavy damage it make... Kiss from FRANCE ! ;)
Looking Good Keith. So much Hard precise Work put in by your self. Always great to sit back and watch the Grand master at work Cheers Dave from Australia
Bijur has been around for more than 100 years. I have a 1930 Packard and it has a Bijur chassis lubrication system. There is a 1 quart tank under the dash, with a handle that says "pull daily". The meters for this system are measured in drops. I believe meters are available for 1 to 12 drops each time the handle is pulled. As I sit here the number of points that comes to me is 78, but that seems like a lot. I know there was even one that put six drops into a trough that fed down to the clutch throwout bearing. My car, like most, had the system changed over the years to use Zirk grease fittings, as the Bijur system made for a very messy garage floor. An excellent excellent series of videos, thank you Keith.
In I think the forties and fifties, Bijur had a mechanical one shot pump. The machine operator would fill the reservoir and periodically push down a lever on the unit, which would actuate a spring loaded plunger that would inject oil into the line until the stroke was completed. The operator was in control of how much oil was being used. More oil needed, push down the handle more frequently. Nice and simple for this older machine. Try to find one of the old units. Probably from a used machine dealer of screw machines, gear hobbers and headers, etc. Use Vactra No. 2 oil. JIM
The squeegee idea only works on the return to center strokes. When the table strokes out, the squeegee will take away oil... just a thought. Love your channel
Hi Keith, You could probably use a oil pump from a small block utility engine, like a small 4cyl tractor motor ! Or the fuel pump from an old kerosene gun burner and use a small electric induction motor to drive either type of pump. For whatever path you take, you could do it for about $100 maybe less !! PS: You could regulate the pressure by making / turning out a small in-line threaded ball and spring valve, with the over pressure line going back to oil reservoir ! And use a standard automotive oil pressure gauge too !!
With the inverted V ways, it may not be a good idea to use the rubber way wipers. At first blush it may seem good to try and seal it up but without any kind of circulation or filter system any chips or even just normal wear from the surfaces rubbing together will be captured and turned into a slurry like grinding compound. The original system will allow to oil to get pushed out to the end with any contamination and is picked up by the felt.
great to see machines way past a century old still being used / cared for and serviced to a standard that allows that life to continue for many years to come
I've followed your restoration with child like glee, so interesting, the manner with which you describe the actions,and most importantly keeping a great old machine from the scrap yard,the karma you've gathered for saving old machines will serve you well
Keith, I can't wait for the next video in this series. Seeing the "upper" part of this planer get repaired and put back together is like going downhill. Thank you for sharing these machine tool restorations!
Would be neat if you could find an oil pump like Dave Richards uses on his machine shop's main steam engine. Appears during startup, he gives its hand crank a few turns perhaps for some advance oiling and to confirm it's working, has prime, etc. Then, as the engine runs a reciprocating link operates a ratchet mechanism to advance the pump a tiny amount. I think this is oil being added to steam to lube the engine's piston and rings. Perhaps for your machine, a similar pump either on a reduction drive linked to the bull gear drive, or a rachet mechanism that's linked to the table drive reversing mechanism. Every time it changes direction, it gives a dose of oil.
Keith is so good at this that he's a total joy to watch. What I don't understand is how he fixes everything without yelling any cursewords. I change oil and my most important tool when I do something even that simple is profanity
I've been watching your show for years now, I always enjoy watching your work regardless of the project. I would love a shop as large and with as many tools as yours someday. Continued success on your future videos!
Very nice Keith. My only concern is the tubing going thru the rails with no protection. You have 2 shear points with the outside bends the most vulnerable. As you know every connection is a leak point potential. Adding 8 more connections...worth it...yes/no...maybe, I can't decide? I keep thinking of the brake line fittings that go thru the frame rails. Guess they could be modified if something happened. Anyhow nice adaptation.
Just steal the pump mechanisim out of one of those oil cans, or for that matter make one, all you need is a plunger a barrell, a spring and a check ball. Then bolt a small bump to the side of the big table moving gear so it will bump/pump the plunger whenever it passes. Auto oiling whenever table is in motion. :-)
@@VintageMachinery Wouldn't one of these work? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-1L-Electric-Automatic-Lubrication-Pump-Oiler-NC-Pump-Dual-Digital-Display/372907467679?hash=item56d304639f:g:BU0AAOSwdzxeFtwk
Why would you do something like that? He's got a lot of time and money wrapped up in this thing, why short change it like that? This is NOT a piece of crap machine.
You should make a attachment for the tool holder so you can use the shaper as a surface grinder, also you really should put either rubber or leather whipers on the sled that prevents dirt getting inbetween the bed and the sled
This machine will last on into the centuries Keith.. you should put a sticker or a plate on the machines with your name and the year of refurbishing.. Who knows 100 years for now folks will be saying "I have a Keith Rucker machine!" and other will look on him with envy..
Thanks Keith nice too see it coming together ! Its going to be way way better then new !No rush to see it finish but i can not wait to see it running !!!
Keith, i love this restoration, I have learned alot but #1 lesson, I am never buying a 1890 metal planer. this thing is going to be so neat to see run. Thanks
A more "modern" way of stopping those oil pipes rattling against the frame would be to use a generous dob of silicone. Also good where the pipes go through the casting. Important to make sure that the pipes do not sit against the frame, even with the silicone. Really effective.
I have found that using fuel line or just rubber hose put on before mounting the copper tubing Works flawlessly you can zip tie it so it stays in place.
Finally caught up. Really fascinating to watch you take it apart and putting it back together. Your explanations are clear and understandable. Looking forward to see this project finished. Couldn't find a number 20, thinking it was skipped, all videos fit together.
Olives are for a different connection system. They have specific parts that need to be used in that system of which olives are one. Not all systems are the same.
@@aubreyaub If you are using a compression connector then you are using an olive for copper/brass. There are many different connection standards and olives are used in a particular standard.
Keith, I would consider using clear silicone to anchor the oil lines on the shaper. If it afheres well to the paint it would probably be a lot faster than making and installing mechanical anchors.
Keith, good job, I worked in a paper mill. and have installed many Bijur oil systems. Just wondered why you did not put a oiler on the bull gear it will need some lube I would think.
Keith did you consider countersinking the inside and outside of your holes through the side if your planer to reduce the sharp aware point on the tubing.
Did you debur the holes you drilled, the natural vibration could cut the small tubing, & there are metal grommets that are covered in rubber to hold the tubing in place. Hope that helps...
A brake master isn't made to pump in am open circuit It's made to have the same oil return A simple piston pumo has check valves on each side So the inlet check only allows oil into the piston and the outlet check doesn't allow oil into the piston We use this type of pump for giving sheep drench for worm treatment Common type of pump you will find in hundreds of applications He could make his own but really $800 isn't much in the scheme of things
And the ways require continuous oil supply, if some ignorant one would operate a machine with manual lubrication, it would run too dry and Keith's precious work would be totally ruined.
You can buy a new automotive oil pump for $40, of course you will have to rig it up but that is what you do best. Coming along nicely. Looking forward to the next installment.
Keith, full length oil grooves on the table sliding surfaces would be a good way to evenly disburse way oil. The one on the base acts as feeding point. Just my .02
Hi, nice machine and very well done on the resatoration, if you would pleasde have a first cut video where you do a test cut on somemetal. Thanks for sharing and look forward to the next episode.
If he uses an automatic oiler it will have a timer so that the amount of oil delivered to the ways can be controlled. He will have to experiment to get the timing correct.
Does the rack gear have access to lube it. We used a black nasty open gear lube back in the 70s that would last all year. It would however stain your skin like a permanent marker if you got it on you
First let me say I really enjoy your videos. The production is spot on and you speak clearly and are easy to understand. Thanks, for showing the flaker tool in action it answered some of my questions. Also, I ran some brake lines in the past and found that the tubes must enter the fittings square and straight so they don`t leek. I see that some of your manifold connections are a bit to the side. Did any of them leak or have I been overly cautious with my installations in the past? Thanks. Mike from NJ
@@garys9694 Sure hope you're right. Looked low enough to me since the rack is significantly lower than the ways on the table. Not sure what else that sound could have been.
How the heck are those surfaces not getting surface rust? You are in a fairly humid area. Any secrets to keeping those bare exposed surfaces from falling to the moisture? They look very nice!
Disclaimer: This is a real question, i don't want to be a smartass. Is there a risk of the copper oil line being damaged by rubbing in the snug fitting holes where it passes through the side walls? Being an electrician i know to avoid running cables through such tight holes on any machinery without a rubber sleeve or something similar to avoid damage.
Regarding the pump- are you talking about something like a one-shot oiler, or do you intend to use a continuous pump? Just curious. Really great progress and it was cool to see the flaking also.
The manifold with metering ports was an excellent idea. Keith has the talent to adapt a simple chemical squeeze tube pump or build a simple small piston pump which produces a squirt on each table stroke.
For me, the only thing more satisfying than restoring old machinery is watching somebody else restoring old machinery. Your channel is one of the best on youtube to find this stuff.
i know it is quite off topic but do anybody know a good website to watch newly released movies online ?
Keith, what a masterful restoration!
AAARRRGGGG...!!! Ya didn't run the table back and forth to show how wonderfully smooth it is! The anticipation is palpable. Great work Keith!
He's a tease!!!!! I was anticipating seeing it slide too :-)
It's still bloody heavy, and the rack is permanently engaged.
A surface with so many frosting will not slide easily ! Ô no ! ^^
More-over, frosting demand a re-finition of the slide do to the heavy damage it make...
Kiss from FRANCE ! ;)
Looking Good Keith. So much Hard precise Work put in by your self. Always great to sit back and watch the Grand master at work Cheers Dave from Australia
Nice job Keith.
I can't wait to see this behemoth running!
Bijur has been around for more than 100 years. I have a 1930 Packard and it has a Bijur chassis lubrication system. There is a 1 quart tank under the dash, with a handle that says "pull daily". The meters for this system are measured in drops. I believe meters are available for 1 to 12 drops each time the handle is pulled. As I sit here the number of points that comes to me is 78, but that seems like a lot. I know there was even one that put six drops into a trough that fed down to the clutch throwout bearing. My car, like most, had the system changed over the years to use Zirk grease fittings, as the Bijur system made for a very messy garage floor. An excellent excellent series of videos, thank you Keith.
Like the idea for the lubrication system kieth. 👍👍👍
Get yourself a brake pipe bender as used on cars. Its like a larger pair of pliers.Stops the pipe collapsing and does tighter bends.
In I think the forties and fifties, Bijur had a mechanical one shot pump. The machine operator would fill the reservoir and periodically push down a lever on the unit, which would actuate a spring loaded plunger that would inject oil into the line until the stroke was completed. The operator was in control of how much oil was being used. More oil needed, push down the handle more frequently. Nice and simple for this older machine.
Try to find one of the old units. Probably from a used machine dealer of screw machines, gear hobbers and headers, etc.
Use Vactra No. 2 oil.
JIM
The squeegee idea only works on the return to center strokes. When the table strokes out, the squeegee will take away oil... just a thought. Love your channel
Hi Keith, You could probably use a oil pump from a small block utility engine, like a small 4cyl tractor motor ! Or the fuel pump from an old kerosene gun burner and use a small electric induction motor to drive either type of pump. For whatever path you take, you could do it for about $100 maybe less !! PS: You could regulate the pressure by making / turning out a small in-line threaded ball and spring valve, with the over pressure line going back to oil reservoir ! And use a standard automotive oil pressure gauge too !!
I would put rubber strips under the lines before fastening them down to keep the oil lines from chafing.
With the inverted V ways, it may not be a good idea to use the rubber way wipers. At first blush it may seem good to try and seal it up but without any kind of circulation or filter system any chips or even just normal wear from the surfaces rubbing together will be captured and turned into a slurry like grinding compound. The original system will allow to oil to get pushed out to the end with any contamination and is picked up by the felt.
great to see machines way past a century old still being used / cared for and serviced to a standard that allows that life to continue for many years to come
Looking great! Keep up the good work!
Love watching these videos. Bringing History back to life and showing people how things were done back in the day.
At long last you are getting near to an operational planer. Waiting for the day you make chips.
Looking good Keith.......She will alive soon!!
Thanks Keith. The planer is going to be magnificent - I can't wait to see it making chips.
Thanks Keith
Soft copper tubing (sometimes referred to as refrigeration tubing.)
I've followed your restoration with child like glee, so interesting, the manner with which you describe the actions,and most importantly keeping a great old machine from the scrap yard,the karma you've gathered for saving old machines will serve you well
Keith, I can't wait for the next video in this series. Seeing the "upper" part of this planer get repaired and put back together is like going downhill. Thank you for sharing these machine tool restorations!
The picture is beginning to develop with planer Keith, looking good!
Would be neat if you could find an oil pump like Dave Richards uses on his machine shop's main steam engine. Appears during startup, he gives its hand crank a few turns perhaps for some advance oiling and to confirm it's working, has prime, etc. Then, as the engine runs a reciprocating link operates a ratchet mechanism to advance the pump a tiny amount. I think this is oil being added to steam to lube the engine's piston and rings. Perhaps for your machine, a similar pump either on a reduction drive linked to the bull gear drive, or a rachet mechanism that's linked to the table drive reversing mechanism. Every time it changes direction, it gives a dose of oil.
Thanks for taking the time to film and edit these videos. That's work that is not seen but must be done.
Keith is so good at this that he's a total joy to watch. What I don't understand is how he fixes everything without yelling any cursewords. I change oil and my most important tool when I do something even that simple is profanity
Episode 30 and counting. Keep making 'em, Keith.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice oil line kit.
Good tips on the metering valves. The project is coming along nicely.
Automotive A/C line clamps from the salvage yard should work for your oil line clamps
I've been watching your show for years now, I always enjoy watching your work regardless of the project. I would love a shop as large and with as many tools as yours someday. Continued success on your future videos!
awesome work!
Enjoyed the work. Can't wait to see you back to work on the stoker engine.
Very nice Keith. My only concern is the tubing going thru the rails with no protection. You have 2 shear points with the outside bends the most vulnerable. As you know every connection is a leak point potential. Adding 8 more connections...worth it...yes/no...maybe, I can't decide? I keep thinking of the brake line fittings that go thru the frame rails. Guess they could be modified if something happened. Anyhow nice adaptation.
Hiya Keith
Awesome
Excellent video! Full of new material on how to install new or replacement lube lines. Another big bite out of the elephant.
Awesome oiling setup Keith. You are the man!
Just steal the pump mechanisim out of one of those oil cans, or for that matter make one, all you need is a plunger a barrell, a spring and a check ball. Then bolt a small bump to the side of the big table moving gear so it will bump/pump the plunger whenever it passes. Auto oiling whenever table is in motion. :-)
I’ve been considering something like that.
I would start with a roller lifter and work from there.
@@VintageMachinery
Wouldn't one of these work? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-1L-Electric-Automatic-Lubrication-Pump-Oiler-NC-Pump-Dual-Digital-Display/372907467679?hash=item56d304639f:g:BU0AAOSwdzxeFtwk
Just a mechanical fuel lift pump is the same thing
Think the last one o bought off new holland was $35
Why would you do something like that? He's got a lot of time and money wrapped up in this thing, why short change it like that? This is NOT a piece of crap machine.
Good to see such a nice smile there, Keith! Congratulations on the progress!
You should make a attachment for the tool holder so you can use the shaper as a surface grinder, also you really should put either rubber or leather whipers on the sled that prevents dirt getting inbetween the bed and the sled
This machine will last on into the centuries Keith.. you should put a sticker or a plate on the machines with your name and the year of refurbishing.. Who knows 100 years for now folks will be saying "I have a Keith Rucker machine!" and other will look on him with envy..
I'll second that.
@@michaelmiles9680 I'll third that.
@@thirzapeevey2395 Is 'fourthin' a thing? I'll do that.
You've got a good point. Maybe if UA-cam lasts those people can even watch their machine being refurbished. That would be pretty neat too
@@billiondollardan I'd give quite some for a workshop with Keith-Rucker massaged machinery.
Due to oil-to-line friction, you also want to have equal length oil lines to each of the outputs. Otherwise more oil will go to the shorter lines.
Light visible at the end a long, long tunnel. Thanks as always...
The heaviest work is done. Time for a brew.
Thanks Keith nice too see it coming together ! Its going to be way way better then new !No rush to see it finish but i can not wait to see it running !!!
Nice to see the sure and steady progress Keith.
Keith, i love this restoration, I have learned alot but #1 lesson, I am never buying a 1890 metal planer. this thing is going to be so neat to see run. Thanks
Feeling happy when you posting new vedio.. Thank you keith
A more "modern" way of stopping those oil pipes rattling against the frame would be to use a generous dob of silicone. Also good where the pipes go through the casting. Important to make sure that the pipes do not sit against the frame, even with the silicone. Really effective.
I have found that using fuel line or just rubber hose put on before mounting the copper tubing Works flawlessly you can zip tie it so it stays in place.
I enjoy watching your videos thanks for what you do
Very good idea to add a pumped oiling system, should
alleviate lubing problems. So much time getting the ways correct it is well worth the time.
Binge watching these from the play list, no. 12 is not in the list. Found it, watched it now on to 13.
Finally caught up. Really fascinating to watch you take it apart and putting it back together. Your explanations are clear and understandable. Looking forward to see this project finished. Couldn't find a number 20, thinking it was skipped, all videos fit together.
Gday Keith, the day is certainly becoming closer to the first chip to be peeled off, great work and thanks for sharing, take care Matty
It really looks nice, you really planned well on this one. Thanks
Nice oiling system. Your wiper thoughts sound real good too.
I was thinking the pump on a bottle jack could be copied to make a oil force pump for the ways.
Thanks for the vid.
Thank you. And since we´re all at home all the time I´m growing some new and strong expectations towards a lot of new videos. ;)
Check auto supply for keeper for fuel and brake lines that could work or give you ideas
love the work your doing have watched all the videos in this and hope see other videos on other projects keep up the great work
Those "ferrules" are called olives here in the UK
Olives are for a different connection system. They have specific parts that need to be used in that system of which olives are one.
Not all systems are the same.
Ferrules are fitted onto the end of the pipe, usually silver or soft soldered , olives are pushed near the end and crimped by tightening the nut.
@@DirtyRobot Australia, Olives here also. Funny how the other bloke has it wrong, but I am right. Vive le difference.
@@aubreyaub If you are using a compression connector then you are using an olive for copper/brass. There are many different connection standards and olives are used in a particular standard.
@@kevingrime5772 I'm used to using olives for systems that seal using an expansion flare, this one looks like taper compression?
sehr gut mach weiter so!!
looking good!
Can’t wait for more, Thanks
I really love these videos. I do wish that there was a rubber grommet to keep the copper tubing from touching the casting.
I can't wait to see that puppy make some chips ;-)
Keith, I would consider using clear silicone to anchor the oil lines on the shaper. If it afheres well to the paint it would probably be a lot faster than making and installing mechanical anchors.
I gave this video a thumbs up even though I thought you could have done a neater job of forming the oil lines.
How do you eat an elephant! Great videos Keith
Keith, good job, I worked in a paper mill. and have installed many Bijur oil systems. Just wondered why you did not put a oiler on the bull gear it will need some lube I would think.
Bijur is fine for a simple lube system like this. On more complicated systems I think Trabon has some significant advantages.
Just my OCD kicking in, but would swap the inner and outer oil lines on the manifold so the pipes don't have to cross over each other.
Can also fill the tubing with water and freeze it before bending the tube, use that trick on 1/2 in soft copper tubeing
Keith did you consider countersinking the inside and outside of your holes through the side if your planer to reduce the sharp aware point on the tubing.
Attention to detail, that what sets the master craftsman apart from the rest
Did you debur the holes you drilled, the natural vibration could cut the small tubing, & there are metal grommets that are covered in rubber to hold the tubing in place. Hope that helps...
$800 for a pump wow.. wonder if a clutch or brake master cylinder could be made to work? little foot pedal to squirt some oil or maybe run on a cam?
Can't save in oil pump after doing probably over $10k worth of work on the machine to make it perfect
Love you way of thinking:) .. the idea with the master cylinder is a good one... imagine the smile on your face if you got that working well :)
A brake master isn't made to pump in am open circuit
It's made to have the same oil return
A simple piston pumo has check valves on each side
So the inlet check only allows oil into the piston and the outlet check doesn't allow oil into the piston
We use this type of pump for giving sheep drench for worm treatment
Common type of pump you will find in hundreds of applications
He could make his own but really $800 isn't much in the scheme of things
And the ways require continuous oil supply, if some ignorant one would operate a machine with manual lubrication, it would run too dry and Keith's precious work would be totally ruined.
@@davewalker8870 Imagine the look on your face when you discover you saved a penny only to have to pull the bed off and redo the work you've done.
You can buy a new automotive oil pump for $40, of course you will have to rig it up but that is what you do best. Coming along nicely. Looking forward to the next installment.
Keith, full length oil grooves on the table sliding surfaces would be a good way to evenly disburse way oil. The one on the base acts as feeding point. Just my .02
Hi, nice machine and very well done on the resatoration, if you would pleasde have a first cut video where you do a test cut on somemetal. Thanks for sharing and look forward to the next episode.
would have been trick to drill a thru hole from your outboard fittings, keep all the plumbing inboard .
Cool video.
Make a oil pump that you think will work. Thanks for sharing
I wonder if runoff is going to be an issue due to the forced oiling system. The shop is so clean.
A very good question... im wondering too for a second... Its on a rack, so it cant...
If he uses an automatic oiler it will have a timer so that the amount of oil delivered to the ways can be controlled. He will have to experiment to get the timing correct.
Does the rack gear have access to lube it. We used a black nasty open gear lube back in the 70s that would last all year. It would however stain your skin like a permanent marker if you got it on you
First let me say I really enjoy your videos. The production is spot on and you speak clearly and are easy to understand. Thanks, for showing the flaker tool in action it answered some of my questions. Also, I ran some brake lines in the past and found that the tubes must enter the fittings square and straight so they don`t leek. I see that some of your manifold connections are a bit to the side. Did any of them leak or have I been overly cautious with my installations in the past?
Thanks. Mike from NJ
22:44 Was that the sound of the rack smacking into the way on the right side of the table??!! OMG!
He still had the table too high for that!
@@garys9694 Sure hope you're right. Looked low enough to me since the rack is significantly lower than the ways on the table. Not sure what else that sound could have been.
How the heck are those surfaces not getting surface rust? You are in a fairly humid area. Any secrets to keeping those bare exposed surfaces from falling to the moisture? They look very nice!
Disclaimer: This is a real question, i don't want to be a smartass. Is there a risk of the copper oil line being damaged by rubbing in the snug fitting holes where it passes through the side walls? Being an electrician i know to avoid running cables through such tight holes on any machinery without a rubber sleeve or something similar to avoid damage.
I was wondering the same thing. I would also have concerns with the two different metals being in contact which would cause issues.
Also he didn't chamfer the holes so there are sharp edges!
Regarding the pump- are you talking about something like a one-shot oiler, or do you intend to use a continuous pump? Just curious. Really great progress and it was cool to see the flaking also.
Do enjoy all your restore work. Question please: Do you have any electrolysis concerns with the raw copper tubing touching the cast frame ?
How about making a cam and mounting it on a rotating shaft and use an old type mechanical fuel pump?
I know some systems put restrictions in some lines to keep the oil even over different areas and for different oiling needs
The manifold with metering ports was an excellent idea. Keith has the talent to adapt a simple chemical squeeze tube pump or build a simple small piston pump which produces a squirt on each table stroke.
I wonder if blown air could be used to clear debris from vee ways as it falls or suction as it leaves the cutting tool.
That Gantry crane owes you nothing anymore.
Great video, sorta let down you didn’t give it a couple scoots back and forth at at the end 😂
You should teach classes in patience, Keith. I could never have completed the number of passes you did in scraping in the planer.
Just FYI it's called an "Olive" not a ferrule!