Hi Tony, although the video is over 5 years old I'd like to make a couple of observations if you don't mind. Having trained with the M14 in 1969 with the US Army we never had to use scraping tools to remove excess, hard carbon. Bore cleaner was more than sufficient. Today, as a new owner of a used M1A, I recently disassembled the rifle. Although very clean generally the gas system was heavily fouled. The piston had to be driven out with a few light taps with a brass hammer. Once out it was soaked in Hoppes No. 9 for a little while then cleaned externally with a toothbrush and internally with a snug fitting brass-bronze brush, wiped out with a Hoppes soaked patch then dried with a clean patch. The rest of the gas system was cleaned pretty much in the same way then reassembled. No scrapers were needed and I've never had to resort to using scrapers of any kind on any of my gas operated firearms. To me a scraper is overkill! When applying lubricant on the threads of the gas plug all that's needed is to apply a small amount in a straight line down the side of the plug instead of covering all the threads. The amount on the line of lubricant will distribute all that's needed when the plug is screwed in. The grease will distribute into and over all threads during that process. The amount used in the video is a waste of lubricant as it will either squeeze out or push itself into the chamber of the gas system. That's just my 2 cents worth. I subscribed to your channel awhile back and did give ya a thumbs up though.
Doesn't sound like you got the narrow end of the piston clean then and all the sooner you will see short stroking from large volumes of firing. The drill bit method is supposed to be done just enough to get carbon out.
I'm with you on this one Todd. As a Marine who trained with the M14 we never did all that crap either. Let it soak and bore cleaner and then elbow grease with a nylon brush Scrub like hell till it's clean. Never had a short stroke then nor with my M1A now. I notice he has a lot of expensive tools that he uses that we never had access to nor did we need. Plus part of the video shows him with the gas assembly in hand. He doesn't mention you have to take the whole front side assembly off to get that part off. Never found the need for that either.
I finally got my hands on a M1A this year. Brings back old memories of the Southeast Asia. Your videos are a great help. Don't remember that much about it from 50 years ago.
We used our M14s for our field training extensively, firing lots of blank cartridges. A blank firing device was mounted on the front of the flash suppressor to hold back some of the pressure so the rifle would function. We fired lots and lots of blanks causing lots and lots of fowling. In spite of this, we never used any scrapers or any kinds of abrasives other than the standard GI brass bore and chamber brushes. The GI butt stock tool was plenty sufficient to disassemble the rifle except for the bolt and trigger assembly.
I really enjoy these videos. I have loved to work on firearms since I was a young boy. Some 50 years later, I am still learning. This is a great set of videos patiently walking through all the steps with no slight of hand or shortcuts. They are such high order professionals that they can anticipate where the problems are for novice and experienced hand alike. I could sit at the feet of these guys all day long, soaking it in. I purchase all of my equipment from them for two reasons: high quality and these videos. Thank you.
Many thanks for this video. It was very helpful for me because I did not know if I have to get the entire action of my M1A out of the stock. The barrel is bedded in the stock so I was concerned about damage the bedding by disassembling. Best regards from germany!
Hey man. Just wanted to say thanks for uploading all of this detailed info about the M14. I got a Loaded model a few months ago and your collection of videos are probably the richest and most detailed on YT. I'm a detail-oriented person so it's nice to learn from someone that leaves no stone unturned. You should make a video about your history with the rifle and how/why you're so familiar with it!
Thanks for the excellent videos Tony, I just picked up my first M1a it's a Springfield MA9222 (Loaded Walnut Stock) I have already bought the Sadlak Piston Drills, Ti Nitride non grooved Piston, NM Spring Guide, and I am planning on getting the Basset Scope Mount and a Primary Arms DMR Scope. I have a torque wrench and found the Crowsfoot on eBay to torque the gas plug back on, hopefully it's not on there too tight, I also need to get some anti seize
Love your videos very informative, could you do a video on all the uses of a M14 combo tool that are kept in the stick of an M1 thank you for all the great info 👍🏼
Another great video, Tony! I hope a large crescent wrench will suffice in lieu of that fancy gas cylinder wrench you used in combination with the 3/8" wrench to remove and install the gas plug...
Well I was going to ask how often do you do this. But then you said "if this had been 500 rounds there would be a lot more carbon..." Looks like I am going to get good at this process! Thank you for these vids...they are very helpful. Peace.
Hi thanks for posting this. One question if you don't mind. Which is more important... lining up the plug with your original factory witness mark, or tightening up to the 150 in/lbs ?
I have the two drill bits around the house of the sizes that are needed. Might that be good enough or should I just buy one of the drill sets from Brownell's, etc?
Thanks Tony ... Very helpful. Now I need to get some more tools , especially after watching you do it the right way. I am a firm believer in frog lube. I use it in my weapons including my M1A & Garand. It's not grease but I never had a problem. I always keep an eye out for any more shiny metal but never found any. Is there something specific that I should keep an eye on ? As far as premature wear ?
Hello Tony if you are still around on UA-cam I have a question re my Springfield M25 White Feather. Is it possible to remove the hand guard after removing the clip? After much difficulty removing the clip using a modified snap ring pliers as regular M1a pliers can’t catch the ends of the clip I am still unable to pull the hand guard off the barreled action. Any thoughts on the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I work on boilers and use carb cleaner to clean the carbon off the oil nozzles and it cleans off the carbon really great. would it be ok to use it on the gas piston and gas plug it drys and leaves no residue
Great video, just got my Norinco M305/M14 and just learning about it. Are there any videos on using go an no go gauges for the headspace out there. Keep up the great work
Much appreciated Tony, I want to get gauges and check my bolt clearance before I fire it. Will I have to remove the extractor first or can it be done with the extractor in the bolt?
I sure wish I could lay my hands on a USGI go gauge with the extractor cut-out on it. I will keep looking for one. Somebody could make a killing selling these for the M14
Shaking Myhead mine doesn't budge either take back to gun store and have them initially break it and I'll do the rest. If something goes awry it's on the gun store. Had an acquaintance wanted to change a muzzle break on his mpx, had to send barrel back to sig sauer cuz his gunsmith couldn't get the muzzle break to budge and didn't want to do any damage to void anthing.
Tony, On the jobber drill ream-job, when you modified your jobber drills...how flat did you grind the ends and did you chamfer them a bit to a soft transition?
the gas plug i s not tight enough..the port in the barrel is out of alignment with the figure 8 piece that has the hole in it to transfer the gas from the barrel to the gas piston assembly..
no one makes gas plug reamers for the M1A that I have found. Not even Springfield. I guess I shall keep looking. and WHY does TonyBen not put a link wear to purchase what he use's?Wish he would. I am ocdc and want my junk right and done right. now I seem to need several hundred dollars worth of wrenches and other tools to make my M1A's battle ready. I hope the dead people from covid hold off on digging them selves out till I get all this stuff.
Just wait until you run a .22 brush down into the bottom of the piston, spin it with the drill and have it break off and lodge down in there. Bitch to get out.
Hi Tony, although the video is over 5 years old I'd like to make a couple of observations if you don't mind.
Having trained with the M14 in 1969 with the US Army we never had to use scraping tools to remove excess, hard carbon. Bore cleaner was more than sufficient.
Today, as a new owner of a used M1A, I recently disassembled the rifle. Although very clean generally the gas system was heavily fouled. The piston had to be driven out with a few light taps with a brass hammer. Once out it was soaked in Hoppes No. 9 for a little while then cleaned externally with a toothbrush and internally with a snug fitting brass-bronze brush, wiped out with a Hoppes soaked patch then dried with a clean patch. The rest of the gas system was cleaned pretty much in the same way then reassembled. No scrapers were needed and I've never had to resort to using scrapers of any kind on any of my gas operated firearms. To me a scraper is overkill!
When applying lubricant on the threads of the gas plug all that's needed is to apply a small amount in a straight line down the side of the plug instead of covering all the threads. The amount on the line of lubricant will distribute all that's needed when the plug is screwed in. The grease will distribute into and over all threads during that process. The amount used in the video is a waste of lubricant as it will either squeeze out or push itself into the chamber of the gas system.
That's just my 2 cents worth.
I subscribed to your channel awhile back and did give ya a thumbs up though.
Doesn't sound like you got the narrow end of the piston clean then and all the sooner you will see short stroking from large volumes of firing. The drill bit method is supposed to be done just enough to get carbon out.
I'm with you on this one Todd. As a Marine who trained with the M14 we never did all that crap either. Let it soak and bore cleaner and then elbow grease with a nylon brush Scrub like hell till it's clean. Never had a short stroke then nor with my M1A now. I notice he has a lot of expensive tools that he uses that we never had access to nor did we need. Plus part of the video shows him with the gas assembly in hand. He doesn't mention you have to take the whole front side assembly off to get that part off. Never found the need for that either.
I finally got my hands on a M1A this year. Brings back old memories of the Southeast Asia. Your videos are a great help. Don't remember that much about it from 50 years ago.
We used our M14s for our field training extensively, firing lots of blank cartridges. A blank firing device was mounted on the front of the flash suppressor to hold back some of the pressure so the rifle would function. We fired lots and lots of blanks causing lots and lots of fowling. In spite of this, we never used any scrapers or any kinds of abrasives other than the standard GI brass bore and chamber brushes. The GI butt stock tool was plenty sufficient to disassemble the rifle except for the bolt and trigger assembly.
Just as a side note ..... you of course cannot use the BFA on the M1A if it doesn't have a bayonet lug. Is nothing to attach the other end to
Tony today I ordered all the tools from sadlac thanks I will be watching all your videos for the M1A thank you for giving me confidence
Excellent videos on this weapon system. Fantastic for the beginning M14/M1a owner. Thank you.
I really enjoy these videos. I have loved to work on firearms since I was a young boy. Some 50 years later, I am still learning. This is a great set of videos patiently walking through all the steps with no slight of hand or shortcuts. They are such high order professionals that they can anticipate where the problems are for novice and experienced hand alike. I could sit at the feet of these guys all day long, soaking it in. I purchase all of my equipment from them for two reasons: high quality and these videos. Thank you.
Thanks for uploading this video. I thought it would be a difficult task to clean the gas system but that actually looks really easy.
Many thanks for this video. It was very helpful for me because I did not know if I have to get the entire action of my M1A out of the stock. The barrel is bedded in the stock so I was concerned about damage the bedding by disassembling.
Best regards from germany!
Hey man. Just wanted to say thanks for uploading all of this detailed info about the M14. I got a Loaded model a few months ago and your collection of videos are probably the richest and most detailed on YT. I'm a detail-oriented person so it's nice to learn from someone that leaves no stone unturned. You should make a video about your history with the rifle and how/why you're so familiar with it!
I just got the adjustable gas plug for suppressor use, and will replace the fixed plug. Thank you for telling me the torque setting.
I just tried it and it worked marvelous! Thanks Tony!
As an index mark I made a small scratch with a screwdriver instead of the permanent marker pen. It keeps better against the solvent and grease.
Thanks for the excellent videos Tony, I just picked up my first M1a it's a Springfield MA9222 (Loaded Walnut Stock) I have already bought the Sadlak Piston Drills, Ti Nitride non grooved Piston, NM Spring Guide, and I am planning on getting the Basset Scope Mount and a Primary Arms DMR Scope. I have a torque wrench and found the Crowsfoot on eBay to torque the gas plug back on, hopefully it's not on there too tight, I also need to get some anti seize
Great job, great riffle it's good to be an American. Thanks for the help.
Love your videos very informative, could you do a video on all the uses of a M14 combo tool that are kept in the stick of an M1 thank you for all the great info 👍🏼
So glad I found your video's. I'm telling my friends about you we have the m-1a.
Another great video, Tony! I hope a large crescent wrench will suffice in lieu of that fancy gas cylinder wrench you used in combination with the 3/8" wrench to remove and install the gas plug...
Yes, a large crescent wrench will work. Pad it with some leather or inner tube rubber.
Tony.
Well I was going to ask how often do you do this. But then you said "if this had been 500 rounds there would be a lot more carbon..."
Looks like I am going to get good at this process! Thank you for these vids...they are very helpful.
Peace.
Excellent information ! Excellent video !
5⭐
Very well put!
Thanks Tony, very helpful!
Thanks heaps for sharing the know how, just cleaned mine out and heading out to the range shortly.
Hi thanks for posting this. One question if you don't mind. Which is more important... lining up the plug with your original factory witness mark, or tightening up to the 150 in/lbs ?
This guy complicates a lot of really easy tasks. And invest a lot of money in tools that we never needed or had a use for to service the M14 or my M1A
Thank you Tony. Great video. I needed it.
It's just a tube of spark plug anti-seize from the auto store. I think mine was permatex or something like that. Loc-Tite makes a version too.
You're the man tony!
Thank You! For the most important item!,
Great vid thanks
I have the two drill bits around the house of the sizes that are needed. Might that be good enough or should I just buy one of the drill sets from Brownell's, etc?
Thanks for all the videos Tony. I was wondering what brand and size wood handles did you use for the #15 and P drill bits
Great video. Thank you!
Hey Tony thank you for the video
Thanks Tony ... Very helpful. Now I need to get some more tools , especially after watching you do it the right way. I am a firm believer in frog lube. I use it in my weapons including my M1A & Garand. It's not grease but I never had a problem. I always keep an eye out for any more shiny metal but never found any. Is there something specific that I should keep an eye on ? As far as premature wear ?
What kind of anti-sieze lubricant do you use on the threads?
Hello Tony if you are still around on UA-cam I have a question re my Springfield M25 White Feather. Is it possible to remove the hand guard after removing the clip? After much difficulty removing the clip using a modified snap ring pliers as regular M1a pliers can’t catch the ends of the clip I am still unable to pull the hand guard off the barreled action. Any thoughts on the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
What happens if the gas plug isn't torqued correctly? Also do M14's and the variants like the Socom have a gas piston adjustment? Thanks.
I just soak the entire block in solvent and let sit for a few minutes. Basically bathe it. knocks it all off but important to clean the solvent off.
I work on boilers and use carb cleaner to clean the carbon off the oil nozzles and it cleans off the carbon really great. would it be ok to use it on the gas piston and gas plug it drys and leaves no residue
Great video, just got my Norinco M305/M14 and just learning about it. Are there any videos on using go an no go gauges for the headspace out there. Keep up the great work
I should have a go/no-go video up in a month or so.
Tony.
Much appreciated Tony, I want to get gauges and check my bolt clearance before I fire it. Will I have to remove the extractor first or can it be done with the extractor in the bolt?
You will need to remove the extractor and ejector to check it. Basically, you strip the bolt down (except the roller).
Tony.
I sure wish I could lay my hands on a USGI go gauge with the extractor cut-out on it. I will keep looking for one. Somebody could make a killing selling these for the M14
Tony, do you recommend different gas pistons?
How do you get the gas piston out when it doesn t slide doewn?
Should the gas piston always come out that easily? Mine wouldn't budge.
Shaking Myhead mine doesn't budge either take back to gun store and have them initially break it and I'll do the rest. If something goes awry it's on the gun store. Had an acquaintance wanted to change a muzzle break on his mpx, had to send barrel back to sig sauer cuz his gunsmith couldn't get the muzzle break to budge and didn't want to do any damage to void anthing.
Tony, On the jobber drill ream-job, when you modified your jobber drills...how flat did you grind the ends and did you chamfer them a bit to a soft transition?
I grounded them flat but did not soften them. It would probably be a good idea though, or just buy a good set of Sadlak tools.
Tony.
I see Sadlak sells the "O" bit on Amazon. Maybe it is for their coated pistons?
So does this only pertain to an AK or can this be used on a standard AR 15 rifle.
I bought the castle nut wrench an extra castle nut and lock screws, then I found out that the socom 16 does not have a castle nut
But what drill do you use for the gas port in the barrel? If that is partially obstructed that could cause issues?
I just ran a small allen wrench in the hole to knock out the big carbon. I don't use a drill bit.
Thanks, that's kind of like the SKS gas port cleaning tool, it has a square cross section.
It takes a #26 drill. www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2015/2/9/springfield-m1a-maintenance-tips/
Thanks
How do I know when to clean the gas system?
Every 500 to 1,000 rounds.
cleaned my gas system using the sadlak tools. now my rifle will not cycle/eject. any idea what I could have done wrong?
the gas plug i s not tight enough..the port in the barrel is out of alignment with the figure 8 piece that has the hole in it to transfer the gas from the barrel to the gas piston assembly..
Even without cleaning I don't see this ever causing the rifle to stop working!
Tony, what gas piston brand do you prefer?
Sadlak vented.
@@tonyben3 How come the vented vs the regular? Thanks
no one makes gas plug reamers for the M1A that I have found. Not even Springfield. I guess I shall keep looking. and WHY does TonyBen not put a link wear to purchase what he use's?Wish he would. I am ocdc and want my junk right and done right. now I seem to need several hundred dollars worth of wrenches and other tools to make my M1A's battle ready. I hope the dead people from covid hold off on digging them selves out till I get all this stuff.
Too much Tony !!
Just wait until you run a .22 brush down into the bottom of the piston, spin it with the drill and have it break off and lodge down in there. Bitch to get out.
Aqua