This is a versatile product. I like how you can effectively record AFR (although it doesn’t have critical RPM as well by the look of it), and that the cables are short, because I’m after something for my carbureted motorcycle and don’t need 8ft long sensor cables. A note about heating - don’t preheat the O2 sensor and then start the engine after the sensor is heated. It will get a blast of colder exhaust temperatures, or worse still exhaust tube condensation. Repeated thermal shock like this creates stress fractures and ultimately the sensor fails. It’s better to wire up a relay and switch, run the engine for 20 seconds, then switch the sensor on so the exhaust gas is already warm. Otherwise you’ve got a super hot sensor getting a blast of much colder exhaust gasses on engine startup. That’s why wideband Sensors routinely fail too soon.
Does it store the afr graph on a SD data card? Does it maintain the data if the car is turned off or the Bluetooth signal is lost? Does it have an RPM input signal? How can I go back and review the data once in done driving the car?
The data is stored within the app on a history graph. You can record up to 2 minutes of data. If you wish to go back and replay the data, it is recommended that you use the screen record option on your smart phone.
You should spend more time at Motorsport events. Top FSAE, Formula 1000, and many other teams use PE ECU’s, Widebands etc with no issues, myself included. This isn’t a plug and play EFI set up for your LS, this is a true Motorsport-grade product that requires a competent builder/racer/engineer to set it up.
This is a versatile product. I like how you can effectively record AFR (although it doesn’t have critical RPM as well by the look of it), and that the cables are short, because I’m after something for my carbureted motorcycle and don’t need 8ft long sensor cables.
A note about heating - don’t preheat the O2 sensor and then start the engine after the sensor is heated. It will get a blast of colder exhaust temperatures, or worse still exhaust tube condensation. Repeated thermal shock like this creates stress fractures and ultimately the sensor fails. It’s better to wire up a relay and switch, run the engine for 20 seconds, then switch the sensor on so the exhaust gas is already warm. Otherwise you’ve got a super hot sensor getting a blast of much colder exhaust gasses on engine startup. That’s why wideband Sensors routinely fail too soon.
Great Video! I have to get me one of these!
Does it store the afr graph on a SD data card? Does it maintain the data if the car is turned off or the Bluetooth signal is lost? Does it have an RPM input signal? How can I go back and review the data once in done driving the car?
The data is stored within the app on a history graph. You can record up to 2 minutes of data. If you wish to go back and replay the data, it is recommended that you use the screen record option on your smart phone.
There's gotta be a better phrase than "bung plug".
Complete waste of time! Sales and service suck! Go with something else, anything else. I hope this helps someone out.
You should spend more time at Motorsport events. Top FSAE, Formula 1000, and many other teams use PE ECU’s, Widebands etc with no issues, myself included. This isn’t a plug and play EFI set up for your LS, this is a true Motorsport-grade product that requires a competent builder/racer/engineer to set it up.