You need to adjust your top link. the rear wheel should never come off the ground. Also the bush hog should be leveled from front to rear and side to side on a flat surface. The blades will last longer the stump jumper and safety chains will work properly.
Nice setup you have there but the bush hog seriously needs adjusting. Start off by making the toplink longer so the front of the cutter will "float" with the contour of the ground. The tail wheel looks ok to me but you may wanna adjust it also. The main problem is the toplink though.
i see on your upper link there is a hinge assembly on the piece going to the rear of the cutter. This link should be flexed about 3"for most of your level cutting. 1 Adjust rear wheel lower so it is on ground and rear deck of cutter is about 2" high. 2 Set front of cutter at 1" above ground. 3 Let the front weight of it be supported by the lower lift arms with the upper link in a flexed position. ---That way, your side slides wont wear on the ground by dragging all the time,,,,the cutter can better follow the contour of the ground independent of the tractor, ,the tractor wont be over balanced by the weight of the cutter on the rear,,,,the front of the blades will do the cutting and the rear of the blades will not drag on the clipped stalks and save you horsepower. Be sure to run engine at rated speed, less fuel needed,,,no lugging,,,,and plenty of torque and reserve power rise when you encounter heavier brush,,,,,thanks for the video!!
Don't know if you intended to do it that way but a word of advice, loosen your top buckle and let the back of the brush hog ride on the wheel, it will be less stressful on the PTO and motor
good video but cutter not adjusted correctly for best performance. From what i read in my instructions,,,you should get on level ground and adjust rear wheel so it supports half the weight. And set 3pt hitch to hold up front weight of cutter with two lower arms but upper arm should not have any lift at all and should have free float. Also,,adjust front of cutter to be 1 inch below rear deck so that drag on blades is minimized. And, when tractor front wheels drop into a dip,,the upper slack in hitch will not cause cutter to rise in the rear. Also, when tractor front wheels ride up and over something, then cutter will still cut level if the rear wheel is carrying the load on that end,,,,,thanks for the fun!!!
People at the dealership told me that I could cut brush up to 3" inches in width, but I have cut some up to about one and one half inch in width. One guy clearing an area along the electric lines did cut some brush with his tractor and brush hog up to 3 inches and had no problem.
Depends what they're rated for. Light or "standard" duty or usually rated up to 1 1/2 - 2 inches. More than that they'll take quite a beating. The metal just isn't as thick.
The frontier 2060 rotary cutter is an economy light duty rotary cutter rated for brush up to 1" in diameter. The MX 5 is medium duty rated for material up to 2" in diameter. Anything bigger requires the 6 ft 609 (HX6) and though they made a 509 5 ft commercial duty, it has not been made since the late 1980's though there are used ones.The 09 series can cut material up to 4" in diameter.
Good job. Keep it slow and go forward. Don't back into unknown things or the cutter will be pushed into its blade. Its painful to fix. For limited areas of cutting even with a standard duty cutter, you should be able to cut what your tractor can push down. If others are worried about face shields you should see my videos. None there either.
Raise the front of the deck and lower the back. That wheel should be on the ground and pressure on the top lint should be about nothing...we have even run without a top link at all, the mower deck floats...
I love the videos man! Thank you please make more! I am in a bind I don't know whether to buy a 3032E or 3038E?I want to know how the 25 hp pto is compaired to the 30 hp pto Does the 25 hp cause the engine to bog if so how easily?
+Plowboy228 Thanks, glad you like them! How much hp really depends on what you are going to do with your tractor. Loader work, probably doesn't make much difference. Mowing will depend on how thick the vegetation is, and how fast you want to go. My buddy has a 25 PTO hp tractor, and it does just fine. That said, in some tall grass, it would bog down a bit at the ground speed he wanted to cut. I haven't had my mower bog down, I am limited by how fast I can move due to quality of cut or quality of ride. The times I load the engine the most is trying to break out dirt with the box blade, or heavy disking, and in these instances I am traction limited, not power limited. I am not sure if the 3032 would be power limited or not, in the same situation, but it might be. Overall, for the extra $900 it cost me to move up to a 3038 over the 3032, I am glad I did. On the other hand, the lower hp won't stop you from doing anything the 3038 can do, it just might go slower, Hope that helps.
+ notme88 So I got my local John Deere to take an additional $1000 off of the price of they had advertised for the 3032E which I felt was a really great deal. But I honestly and kinda embarrassed to admit I got so excited and wrapped up i asked if the sale was on the 3032E like they told me what could they do with the 3038E well the sales man was super helpful but he never got back with me and like I said I let it slip past me being that I was excited and also putting a lot of thought into the package we were discussing (all of this late they had closed for the night) but I'm feeling confident in the 3032E. Like I always hear people say and I have to agree better to have more than you expect you'd need though. So I'm racking my brain wanting to make this a lasting purchase even though I'm young and will someday buy another tractor. I also have a yanmar 1700 2wd so this tractor purchase I'm really excited about!
+Plowboy228 Good luck with your purchase! I would say that if you can get a really good deal on a 3032e, then get it. Remember, any tractor is better than no tractor and, unless you're pushing the limits routinely, you probably won't know the difference between the 3032 and 3038.
Thanks for all of your help man! You've been a huge help with my decision! Plus I called and asked how much more would it be for me to get the 3038E vs. the incredible sale price of the 3032E and due to the low sale price I received it would be like $3800 more were at regular price it would be like $1000 to $1500 more! I am very excited about this! I actually received my custom 3032E package this evening! And man am I empressed! If you don't mind if really like to keep in touch! It's hard to find people who post to there channels regularly and are active and willing to chat and share experiences, etc. Thanks a whole lot man.
buena esta maquina pero un pequeño consejo primero utilice la pala recolectora frontal como su fuera un buldozer y tumbar con ella la maleza y depues cortandola con la cuchilla de la pala recolectora para que la rotativa haga un buen trabajo de desmenuzado de la maleza sin forzarla ni a un paso rapido hagalo lo mas lento posible y el motor con una buena revolucion por minito para que el toma de fuerza trabaje lo mas desahogado posible y sufra las cuchillas de la rotativa lo menos posible porque puede romper una o el tornillo fusible roperse cada rato.-
the tail wheel is set too high there needs to be a flexible connection to the top connection of the three point so the brush hog can float over uneven ground without rocking the tractor
Man I know I keep sending you comment and question one after another but are you a member of tractors by net?I have been trying to create a profile and it ask for a reference ? I can't seem to create a profile so I can also chat tractor talk in there!?Thanks in advance and I apologize I don't mean to be a bother.
+Plowboy228 Congrats on your tractor! Let me know when you have a video of it posted! No, I do not belong to any tractor forums. Nothing against them, I just don't have time. Always glad to help some one out.
KEEP ENGINE SPEED OVER 2000 rpm, (2200 PREFERRED), TO GET MAX HP AND A 540 RPM PTO SPEED! Top link set wrong, (too tight),. Use lower gear on tractor so more HP goes to PTO. Higher blade speed closer to the ground creates a vacuum underneath that pulls the long weeds up into the blades so they can be cut instead of only bending them over as yours was doing. You have some great equipment that should last a vary long time; so spend a little time watching some more videos on how other people do it so you can get the maximum performance out of what you have.
John Moore You know thatbis a good point. All it takes is one time to get the ever living heck stung out of yourself by angry stirred up yellow jackets.
also tears rear deck up,,,pushes it in,,,a pain in the ass to repair, If you insist on the rear approach, remove the back shield and replace with heavy chains so you have protection and flex also
You need to adjust your top link. the rear wheel should never come off the ground. Also the bush hog should be leveled from front to rear and side to side on a flat surface. The blades will last longer the stump jumper and safety chains will work properly.
You read my mind.
Nice setup you have there but the bush hog seriously needs adjusting. Start off by making the toplink longer so the front of the cutter will "float" with the contour of the ground. The tail wheel looks ok to me but you may wanna adjust it also. The main problem is the toplink though.
231MasseyFerguson you’re absolutely right!
Doesn't the brush cutter deck float along the ground? Seems to not be keeping level.
You can also back up over some of the stuff as well, keeps you from having to 'duck' the branches
i see on your upper link there is a hinge assembly on the piece going to the rear of the cutter. This link should be flexed about 3"for most of your level cutting. 1 Adjust rear wheel lower so it is on ground and rear deck of cutter is about 2" high. 2 Set front of cutter at 1" above ground. 3 Let the front weight of it be supported by the lower lift arms with the upper link in a flexed position. ---That way, your side slides wont wear on the ground by dragging all the time,,,,the cutter can better follow the contour of the ground independent of the tractor, ,the tractor wont be over balanced by the weight of the cutter on the rear,,,,the front of the blades will do the cutting and the rear of the blades will not drag on the clipped stalks and save you horsepower. Be sure to run engine at rated speed, less fuel needed,,,no lugging,,,,and plenty of torque and reserve power rise when you encounter heavier brush,,,,,thanks for the video!!
brush like that has TICKS!
Don't know if you intended to do it that way but a word of advice, loosen your top buckle and let the back of the brush hog ride on the wheel, it will be less stressful on the PTO and motor
Ray Vandegrift I thought you meant his belt buckle
Use s chain for the top link. It allows the deck to float.
sounds like engine is running too slow also,,,is it up to rated speed of 540 rpm on pto shaft?
good video but cutter not adjusted correctly for best performance. From what i read in my instructions,,,you should get on level ground and adjust rear wheel so it supports half the weight. And set 3pt hitch to hold up front weight of cutter with two lower arms but upper arm should not have any lift at all and should have free float. Also,,adjust front of cutter to be 1 inch below rear deck so that drag on blades is minimized. And, when tractor front wheels drop into a dip,,the upper slack in hitch will not cause cutter to rise in the rear. Also, when tractor front wheels ride up and over something, then cutter will still cut level if the rear wheel is carrying the load on that end,,,,,thanks for the fun!!!
People at the dealership told me that I could cut brush up to 3" inches in width, but I have cut some up to about one and one half inch in width. One guy clearing an area along the electric lines did cut some brush with his tractor and brush hog up to 3 inches and had no problem.
Depends what they're rated for. Light or "standard" duty or usually rated up to 1 1/2 - 2 inches. More than that they'll take quite a beating. The metal just isn't as thick.
Are you happy with this unit?? Comparing to the TSC one (county line) I believe and not sure which way to go....
The frontier 2060 rotary cutter is an economy light duty rotary cutter rated for brush up to 1" in diameter. The MX 5 is medium duty rated for material up to 2" in diameter. Anything bigger requires the 6 ft 609 (HX6) and though they made a 509 5 ft commercial duty, it has not been made since the late 1980's though there are used ones.The 09 series can cut material up to 4" in diameter.
Good job. Keep it slow and go forward. Don't back into unknown things or the cutter will be pushed into its blade. Its painful to fix. For limited areas of cutting even with a standard duty cutter, you should be able to cut what your tractor can push down. If others are worried about face shields you should see my videos. None there either.
Raise the front of the deck and lower the back. That wheel should be on the ground and pressure on the top lint should be about nothing...we have even run without a top link at all, the mower deck floats...
I love the videos man! Thank you please make more! I am in a bind I don't know whether to buy a 3032E or 3038E?I want to know how the 25 hp pto is compaired to the 30 hp pto Does the 25 hp cause the engine to bog if so how easily?
+Plowboy228 Thanks, glad you like them!
How much hp really depends on what you are going to do with your tractor. Loader work, probably doesn't make much difference. Mowing will depend on how thick the vegetation is, and how fast you want to go. My buddy has a 25 PTO hp tractor, and it does just fine. That said, in some tall grass, it would bog down a bit at the ground speed he wanted to cut. I haven't had my mower bog down, I am limited by how fast I can move due to quality of cut or quality of ride.
The times I load the engine the most is trying to break out dirt with the box blade, or heavy disking, and in these instances I am traction limited, not power limited. I am not sure if the 3032 would be power limited or not, in the same situation, but it might be.
Overall, for the extra $900 it cost me to move up to a 3038 over the 3032, I am glad I did. On the other hand, the lower hp won't stop you from doing anything the 3038 can do, it just might go slower,
Hope that helps.
+notme88
Thanks for the reply I highly appreciate it I am @ work right now I will definitely reply more ASAP thank you s ton for your help so far.
+ notme88
So I got my local John Deere to take an additional $1000 off of the price of they had advertised for the 3032E which I felt was a really great deal. But I honestly and kinda embarrassed to admit I got so excited and wrapped up i asked if the sale was on the 3032E like they told me what could they do with the 3038E well the sales man was super helpful but he never got back with me and like I said I let it slip past me being that I was excited and also putting a lot of thought into the package we were discussing (all of this late they had closed for the night) but I'm feeling confident in the 3032E. Like I always hear people say and I have to agree better to have more than you expect you'd need though. So I'm racking my brain wanting to make this a lasting purchase even though I'm young and will someday buy another tractor. I also have a yanmar 1700 2wd so this tractor purchase I'm really excited about!
+Plowboy228 Good luck with your purchase! I would say that if you can get a really good deal on a 3032e, then get it. Remember, any tractor is better than no tractor and, unless you're pushing the limits routinely, you probably won't know the difference between the 3032 and 3038.
Thanks for all of your help man! You've been a huge help with my decision! Plus I called and asked how much more would it be for me to get the 3038E vs. the incredible sale price of the 3032E and due to the low sale price I received it would be like $3800 more were at regular price it would be like $1000 to $1500 more! I am very excited about this! I actually received my custom 3032E package this evening!
And man am I empressed!
If you don't mind if really like to keep in touch! It's hard to find people who post to there channels regularly and are active and willing to chat and share experiences, etc.
Thanks a whole lot man.
buena esta maquina pero un pequeño consejo primero utilice la pala recolectora frontal como su fuera un buldozer y tumbar con ella la maleza y depues cortandola con la cuchilla de la pala recolectora para que la rotativa haga un buen trabajo de desmenuzado de la maleza sin forzarla ni a un paso rapido hagalo lo mas lento posible y el motor con una buena revolucion por minito para que el toma de fuerza trabaje lo mas desahogado posible y sufra las cuchillas de la rotativa lo menos posible porque puede romper una o el tornillo fusible roperse cada rato.-
the tail wheel is set too high
there needs to be a flexible connection to the top connection of the three point so the brush hog can float over uneven ground without rocking the tractor
Brush? That looked mostly like trees to me...
Man I know I keep sending you comment and question one after another but are you a member of tractors by net?I have been trying to create a profile and it ask for a reference ? I can't seem to create a profile so I can also chat tractor talk in there!?Thanks in advance and I apologize I don't mean to be a bother.
+Plowboy228 Congrats on your tractor! Let me know when you have a video of it posted! No, I do not belong to any tractor forums. Nothing against them, I just don't have time. Always glad to help some one out.
KEEP ENGINE SPEED OVER 2000 rpm, (2200 PREFERRED), TO GET MAX HP AND A 540 RPM PTO SPEED!
Top link set wrong, (too tight),.
Use lower gear on tractor so more HP goes to PTO.
Higher blade speed closer to the ground creates a vacuum underneath that pulls the long weeds up into the blades so they can be cut instead of only bending them over as yours was doing.
You have some great equipment that should last a vary long time; so spend a little time watching some more videos on how other people do it so you can get the maximum performance out of what you have.
Too much hog for the tractor
why isn't the driver wearing some kind of procreative face shield, hard hat, long sleeves on his arms and gloves.?
John Moore Procreative face shield, this is a family channel man!
He's not a pussy
+snorman1911 Bwahahahaha!
+D Marek thats funny lmao
John Moore You know thatbis a good point. All it takes is one time to get the ever living heck stung out of yourself by angry stirred up yellow jackets.
That was some thick brush
tooth bar seems to get caught on everything lol
Beeindruckend!
go back wards it Is better with bush hog
also tears rear deck up,,,pushes it in,,,a pain in the ass to repair, If you insist on the rear approach, remove the back shield and replace with heavy chains so you have protection and flex also
Tractor equipado 550 mil
Protect your hearing sir!
Why not a 6ft cutter? Buy a Deere cause that Frontier crap is garbage.