I just put an eye bolt in the base of my TRAK lathe tailstock and bolted a short section of square tubing with one side cut away and a hole drilled for a vertical pin (socket head cap screw) that I can drop in on the tailstock side of the carriage to move that heavy tailstock back and forth. The cap screw in other words goes first through the upper wall of the tubing, then through the eye bolt, and finally through the lower wall of the tubing. The screw head keeps it from falling all of the way through, as the hole through the tubing is slightly larger than the threads of the screw, but smaller than the head. It is just a simple hitch like you might find on lawn equipment such as thatchers, aerators, and wagons.
Hello, great video. Just takes care: When you drill on lathe, the support is fixed to the bed lathe and you push in the turning piece. Then with your tips, you need to release the support that can play and brokes the drill bit. That you show is only oversize an existing drill hole, (not enough material is removed by the drill with the front move) That is my advice, not a critic Thanks for the video again Br from Switzerland👍👍
Ciao Sergey complimenti hai una officina spettacolare e tu sei fantastico, vorrei sapere di quale paese sei. che il Signore ti benedica. Un caro saluto dall'Italia, ROMA.
Ach so 😊 bei dem Titel dachte ich mehr an senkrechte Bohrungen am Werkstück 😊 aber trotzdem cool, so hat man eine Hand frei um Kühlschmirstoff drauf zu spritzen
I would be concerned with marring the tailstock spindle. Perhaps make a ring, make a slit, and then have a threaded and clearance hole on the sides of the slit to clamp it. And it wouldn't have to be ring shaped. It could be square on the outside edge.
The only thing I like about this video is the feed screw covers on your lathe. I don’t recommend driving bolts into the tail stock and I would never use this method to drill holes. Just lazy 🤨
Super Idee👍👍👍👍👍 Was deiner schönen Maschine noch fehlt, sind ein paar Schnellwechsel Stahlhalter und eine ELS 4 von Rocketronics. Du hast eine Sino Anzeige mit Speicherplätze für die Werkzeuge, mit Schnellwechsel Stahlhalter könntest du ohne jedes mal messen zu müssen auch mit dem Bettschlitten bohren, mit einer ELS 4 sogar im Rückzug um die Späne aus der Bohrung zu bekommen, als auch die Bohrtiefe exakt bis auf 0,01 mm festlegen. Ansonsten finde ich deine Ideen immer wieder zum Nachbau sehr anregend!
I think that is an interesting idea but your tail stock is not clamped, of course, and this could really present a problem with larger drills. I have a 12 x 42 lathe and once forgot to engage the clamp and started drilling. I found my error when the torque started rocking the tail stock towards me. That was with a small bit. I often use drills up to 1” for quickly roughing large holes and this would never work.
That is a cool trick. Not sure it would work for me, working with different materials and sizes of drills. Takes a bit to change gears for feeds. Still clever.
Great idea, but, always use a 4 jaw chuck where possible and those 2 screws should be positioned at about 90 degrees to each other, doing so will provide a tighter fit and prevent the ring from rocking back and forth.
I added some parts to my tailstock, so that it could slide but not tilt towards the headstock when pulled by the carriage. I measured the height between the upper and lower machined ways, thinking that would be good to achieve this, making a suitable T assembly, bolted to the bottom of the tailstock. There was a problem - the height was not the same along the length, the bottom machined flat was tapered, getting thicker the closer to the headstock. So, the tailstock soon jammed as it was pulled along. That was annoying, but I suppose the lathe maker thought the tailstock would only be used in one position and locked there.
I have a friend who uses that trick to helix cut the inside of carburetors to give them slam flow on the reeds on two stroke bikes. It works brilliantly, but there’s no room to play around experimenting.
why not get a drill chuck for your tool post?
Have you been using a different insert for turning than what you used to use(the old one looked like a dnmg insert)if so,why?
I just put an eye bolt in the base of my TRAK lathe tailstock and bolted a short section of square tubing with one side cut away and a hole drilled for a vertical pin (socket head cap screw) that I can drop in on the tailstock side of the carriage to move that heavy tailstock back and forth. The cap screw in other words goes first through the upper wall of the tubing, then through the eye bolt, and finally through the lower wall of the tubing. The screw head keeps it from falling all of the way through, as the hole through the tubing is slightly larger than the threads of the screw, but smaller than the head. It is just a simple hitch like you might find on lawn equipment such as thatchers, aerators, and wagons.
👍👍👍
Hello, great video.
Just takes care:
When you drill on lathe, the support is fixed to the bed lathe and you push in the turning piece.
Then with your tips, you need to release the support that can play and brokes the drill bit.
That you show is only oversize an existing drill hole, (not enough material is removed by the drill with the front move)
That is my advice, not a critic
Thanks for the video again
Br from Switzerland👍👍
Thank you and welcome🙂
Very nice , that’s one of those ideas that makes me wonder “ why didn’t I think of that “ 😉 !
Thank you very much
because you did not want to mar your tailstock shaft with those bolts tightening for the collar
@@garybray3614 , maybe a brass insert or plastic pad , using it as a stop or guide for dial indicator , not an automatic feed as shown .
I'll add that, Thank You
🙏🤝👍
Ciao Sergey complimenti hai una officina spettacolare e tu sei fantastico, vorrei sapere di quale paese sei. che il Signore ti benedica. Un caro saluto dall'Italia, ROMA.
Hi! Thank you very much and welcome my friend
Love it
Very nice will do that myself
👌👍🙏
I like your work and your workshop my friend!
Thank you very much👍
Genius idea my friend🎉🎉🎉
Thanks, bro😊
Muy buena idea, bien hecho. saludos.
Muchas gracias, amigo🙂
Very nice and useful part. The idea is the solution. 😊👍
Thank you and welcome😉
The only problem I have with this is the cutting build up in the hole having to clear it
Otherwise it is very good and simple
Nice! The only change I'd make is to fit a small brass 'button' to the end of both hex screws to avoid burring the tailstock quill.
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Ottima idea, te la copierò 😊👍Un saluto da Roma 👋
I like the concept for reaming as this could set the correct feed rate.
I really enjoy all your videos, thank you very much , Paul from the US
Thank you, Paul, and welcome
😮😮😮 EXCELENTE IDEA
Thank you so much🙂
Ach so 😊 bei dem Titel dachte ich mehr an senkrechte Bohrungen am Werkstück 😊 aber trotzdem cool, so hat man eine Hand frei um Kühlschmirstoff drauf zu spritzen
Slick trick! 👍
Thanks bro👌
I would be concerned with marring the tailstock spindle. Perhaps make a ring, make a slit, and then have a threaded and clearance hole on the sides of the slit to clamp it. And it wouldn't have to be ring shaped. It could be square on the outside edge.
very nice ideas
Thanks and welcome
The only thing I like about this video is the feed screw covers on your lathe. I don’t recommend driving bolts into the tail stock and I would never use this method to drill holes. Just lazy 🤨
otima ideia
Thank you
Melhor do isso só ✌ disso valeu muito obrigado!❤
You do some interesting work. Just watched this video. Interested in the boring bar holder. Did you make it? If so, how about a how to make one video.
Have to pay that one..... Good onya
🙂🙂🙂
"How to snap a bit off in your work in 3 easy steps."
Welcome😉
It also introduces a sideways force in the tail stock that in some cases might affect the precision of your work, depending on what you are doing.
Super Idee👍👍👍👍👍
Was deiner schönen Maschine noch fehlt, sind ein paar Schnellwechsel Stahlhalter und eine ELS 4 von Rocketronics.
Du hast eine Sino Anzeige mit Speicherplätze für die Werkzeuge, mit Schnellwechsel Stahlhalter könntest du ohne jedes mal messen zu müssen auch mit dem Bettschlitten bohren, mit einer ELS 4 sogar im Rückzug um die Späne aus der Bohrung zu bekommen, als auch die Bohrtiefe exakt bis auf 0,01 mm festlegen.
Ansonsten finde ich deine Ideen immer wieder zum Nachbau sehr anregend!
Very very good
Ha ha, I really like that one and can see me using it. Thanks.
Bloody clever ! Very clean shop. how do you manage ?
❤❤❤❤
👍🤝🙏
Great Video.
i like it from pakistan
Thank you and welcome🙂
I think that is an interesting idea but your tail stock is not clamped, of course, and this could really present a problem with larger drills. I have a 12 x 42 lathe and once forgot to engage the clamp and started drilling. I found my error when the torque started rocking the tail stock towards me. That was with a small bit. I often use drills up to 1” for quickly roughing large holes and this would never work.
Sir,
These days your video are not that regular like before it's nice to see your video.
Baka baka from India
GID, you know what you're doing. Love your content. //ji
👍🤝🙏
Like all the brand new equipment, vice,etc.
Loving it.
That is a cool trick. Not sure it would work for me, working with different materials and sizes of drills. Takes a bit to change gears for feeds.
Still clever.
I saw it because I thought you would explain how to find the right center where to make the hole in the min. 2:00...
It's almost like you knew what you were doing. It's uncanny.
Now I'm going to have to copy your idea and then tell everyone I thought of it myself.
Great idea, but, always use a 4 jaw chuck where possible and those 2 screws should be positioned at about 90 degrees to each other, doing so will provide a tighter fit and prevent the ring from rocking back and forth.
I added some parts to my tailstock, so that it could slide but not tilt towards the headstock when pulled by the carriage.
I measured the height between the upper and lower machined ways, thinking that would be good to achieve this, making a suitable T assembly, bolted to the bottom of the tailstock.
There was a problem - the height was not the same along the length, the bottom machined flat was tapered, getting thicker the closer to the headstock.
So, the tailstock soon jammed as it was pulled along.
That was annoying, but I suppose the lathe maker thought the tailstock would only be used in one position and locked there.
Why not pushing the tailstock,bij putting it in front of the carriage..
I have a friend who uses that trick to helix cut the inside of carburetors to give them slam flow on the reeds on two stroke bikes. It works brilliantly, but there’s no room to play around experimenting.
I'll bet pecking becomes quite a pain now🤔
Pratique quand on n'a pas de poupée mobile entraînée, mon Cazeneuve hbx360 a l'entraînement pour la poupée
Now you have no feel for the drill bit. Maybe good for wood, not so great for a steel in a lathe though, IMHO...
👍🏻
🙂
Bem pensado!
iyi iş
Thanks, man
Es casi una buena idea pero el cálculo de velocidades
👀👍🙏
👍🤝🙏
Good idea bad design (find a way to make it where it grabs like a collet and not just ruining the ground surface of your tailstock)
When you want to hear an internal break...the carpenter doesn't like it
Welcome😉
Is this guy wearing pajama pants?
Machining in your pyjamas? Seriously?
Bună adaptare totul să pui bibilica la treabă aveți 10 cu plus pa
Maybe someone should buy this guy a mirror so he can see how silly he looks when he gets dressed.
Welcome😁😁😁
But you remember him, right? So, it works!
@@Bob_Adkins So his epitaph will read "Remembered for being silly looking" Brilliant.
😂😂😂
Maybe you should buy some pants
from pakistan
Thanks👍👍👍
super cool
Thanks