1984 GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade carb cleaning
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- Carb cleaning on a 1984 GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade. This is the second video of three, the first shows the removal of the carbs from the bike and the third shows the carbs being reinstalled onto the bike. What I didn't make clear in this video was the fact I cleaned every part of the cards, and ensure every hole etc was clear. The video makes it sound like I only cleaned the jets. Once back together I then sprayed the entire unit with solvent , used a toothbrush to clean it all and then compressed air.
The rubber grommet thing goes on the air filter. Was rebuilding mine after watching this video and came across it.
Anybody reading this please dont use carb spray on the slide diaphragm...thats thin rubber and theyre expensive to replace. Wipe them gently by hand with some 10w oil and leave a small film when reinstalling...
I used silicone spray sprayed onto a lint free (Scotts shop towel) rag and gently wiped them...super easy to tear if you're not careful and getting a new one on to replace it is not easy.
Thanks for sharing! A bike shop would charge a fortune for this, and its not all that dificult! Once you know.
Excellent - thanks so much! I followed your videos on removal and now the cleaning side. Carbs all back on and bike is running after a 12 year hiatus...! I'm new to GW ownership, in West Wales. Can't wait to get out and ride, if it stops raining that is...
I’m in the same boat! I’m working on mine this winter. It’s been sitting since 2008
I’m going to buy one from a pal, it has been sitting since 2014. I live in Lynden, Washington U.S.A.
The valves on the bottom of the float bowl are for drawing the fuel out for winter storage and for drawing any water that may have gotten into the fuel
The screw at the bottom of the bowl that you said was dirty is the drain screw. It allows you to drain the gas in the bow without opening the carbs :)
I have rebuilt 4 sets of the GL1100 Series, glad I watched prior to commencing surgery on a set from a GL1200. Thanks for sharing. Good, concise, no fluff.
Dont for get to clean the intake ports for the jets thats the main problem with carburetors when it don't run right. If you don't know where they are their the little holes in the back of the carburetor inside the big hole probably under that round screen lookin thing. Use compressed air blow into those holes make sure you can feel or hear the air come out jets cover each jet as you blow air into the holes make sure air blows out the exhaust ports witch would be the small hole usually in front of the needle jet and the needle jet. Please like if this helps you
Thank you I'm going to do this this week 10/25/19
Clarence Winston how’d it go?
Thank you so much! I am rebuilding an 85 gl1200 for this summer!
How’d it go? I’m doing mine this winter
@@kyles280 The carb cleaning went great. Unfortunately there were some additional things beyond my hobbyist level of skill. It's in the shop currently for final items before it's reinspection.
@@Matt--G111 awesome! What’re you having done at the shop? Are you in the US?
@@kyles280 The brakes are overheating so the brake calipers are getting rebuilt. It might need new hydrologic lines too. Yes I'm in TX right now. What kind of repairs does yours need?
@@Matt--G111 ok awesome. Mine has been in storage since ‘09 or so. Grampa bought in new and gave it to dad gave it to me but he said it has the handlebar wobble and the dealer didn’t find anything. I’m doing the carbs and everything else on it myself engine-wise and brakes. I’m taking it in for tires and wheel bearings, fork seals and oil and steering stem bearings. Looks new. Only 40k miles on it
great video set - it will help when doing the carbs on my 84 GL1200I, if I see a rubber grommet location I will add a reply to this.
John, you neglected to remove the pilot screws. Inside each pilot screw is a tiny spring, washer and o-ring. Each of those pilot screw chambers should be thoroughly cleaned. Also, the slides should have been deglazed to prevent sticking. You shortchanged yourself by not taking each carb apart totally and run them through a sonic cleaner. Using carb cleaner alone is okay, but with that much work, why not do it right? Thanks.
Appreciate your comment, but seeing as I could not find any video on Internet explaining any of that I did everything from scratch and therefore only did what I knew. I don't pretend to be an expert. The bike is still running absolutely fine, so if the video helps other then that's good with me.
What solution do you use to clean the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner?
At 10:10 that is your drain. Loosen it to drain the bowl on each one for storage (or just run them dry).
I find ytubes videos to be most helpful with the little things like turn a piece up out of the way or put on a hose and clamps before you bolt it on tight just making things go a lot smoother
Your video has be extremely helpful thank you !
That screw on the bottom of the bowl is a bowl so you can drain your carburetors for storage
Thanks for sharing
I watched you and got the carb out , cleaned, back on and rode off.
Thanks. Very useful and informative video. Keep them coming! :D
Pardon me sir, I hope to enlighten you on the purpose of the tapered needle screw that is on the bottom of the bowl is for draining the carburetor for off season lay up of the motorcycle. 👍
Those carbs have a tiny mesh filter on the needle and seat part .They are bad to stop up. I removed mine now it runs like a race car.
40 pilots Will make it way too ritch. Go back to 35 pilots, 110 main and two shims under the needles. Try 2.5 turne on the pilot screws.. it made my 1985 a dragster. 40 pilots makes it a slug.
Hi... Can you explain what you mean by 2.5 turn AND 110 main and two shims...? Really hoping you see and come back to this Mr. Hoffmann, as this is a job I will have to be doing soon.
@@JAYHARRIS85 He means 110 mains. The larger jets. 2.5 turns out on the air fuel mixture screw. You bottom it out and then count the turns out. On my gl1100 it is 2.25 our for instance. Two shims stops the needle sooner I think. That one I am not sure of since mine do not have shims.
My plastic cover is warped where the opening is over the top of the carburetor assembly. This causes dirt to get past the air filter. Where can I find one of those plastic covers?
I discontinued those little filters runs like race bike now
hi,i would have loved to see how he adjust the float level.
i need this information for mine
thanks
ps i am going back at 35 and 105 for my jets ,i dont know the adjustment also for the needle??? whats her height,,
gef
What size is the crush washer on the jet with then screen
I'm in the process right now cleaning the same carb. Where is the air/fuel mixture screws?
Why didn't you reseal all the tubes, butterfly shaft and choke shaft
HI John on your video a rubber grommet fell out your carb when turned it over, where? did it come from as the same thing happened to mine and i have no idea where it came from can you help. Thanks.
Hi Derrick. I have no idea where it came from, and it never went back on. Bike running with no probs. J.
Read up on the comments it was to the air cleaner
how do u remove the idle jet.
I’d like to know as well. Doesnt like they are meant to be removed.
Does anyone have an email for this guy?
Not giving email out publicly, but you can ask me a question on here
@@trainsitecouk oh, cool! Wasn't sure if you were still on here! I have an 84 1200 aspencade and am trying to do some repairs. I am @rushtk on Instagram and anthony Kimball on Facebook and would love to messenger you if you don't mind. Easier than here.
You don’t need a video, you need a genuine Honda shop manual that will tell you where the pilot screws are and also the entirety of the carb cleaning process.