A Loco for Corris! Bachmann ‘Peter Sam’ Conversion in 009
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- So here we are - the engine destined to pull the waggons built in the videos you've seen so far!
Luckily Fourdees produce a range of Tattoo bodies, from early CR era, right up to TR 'Edward Thomas', and as you'll see in the video, I went with era 1. Fourdees have a website, however I just order via eBay.
The Bachmann 'Peter Sam' was bought from 'Tootally Thomas', which can be found at 'www.tootallythomas.co.uk'.
As I mention in the video, this isn't a replica of Corris number 4 - the same way the waggons are technically freelance, and this was done so I could use a livery of my choice and not, which appears to be GWR goods brown that the real no.4 was originally painted in.
Anyway, I hope you enjoy the video, and the finished model!
If you haven't seen them yet, go and check out the previous videos showing how I make the CR waggons that will go with this engine.
Cheers
you can now find me on instagram ...
#modelrailways #modelrailroad #narrowgauge #train #trains #Diorama #009 #model railway #Corris #Gauge #How to #Model #Narrow #Pour Railway Resin Scenics Talyllyn narrow gauge oo9railway series skarloey railway steam railway steam railway wales talyllyn railway talyllyn railway preservation society welsh railway tallylyn modelling dioramas corris #Talyllyn heritage railway preserved railway rev w awdry edward thomas tom rolt sir haydn reverend awdry welsh highland Narrow Gauge OO9 4mm 1/76 Modelling airbrush weathering 3D printed
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Incredibly high standard of work as always George, the painting and weathering in particular continues to astound me, well done
Thanks Killian, can’t wait to try other railways out aswell!
Amazing Work!
Thankyou so much
Really like these videos, thank you for making them. I don’t think I’ve seen any quite like them in the railway modelling area of UA-cam before 👍
Thankyou, very kind words indeed! They’re really just an excuse for me to make more models than I’m allowed to 😅
@@GWilliamsonModels Good excuse…!
Cracking job, a man after my own heart👍✌️💜😊
Glad you enjoyed it, have you seen todays release? It’s back on scenery, but another loco build is coming in the next couple of weeks if that’s your thing!
@@GWilliamsonModels Just catching up with your series, really nice work George 👍😊💜
The tattoo is my favorite class of engine
I think I’d agree mate, it’s a beautiful engine
A truly fabulous tutorial/conversion. Thank you for taking the time and for sharing 🥳👍
It’s thanks to the quality of the print, it was a joy to paint
Thank you for this video very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Looks incredible! I want to use a fourdees kit for a custom Stuart, although it gonna be hard considering I’m in the states. Nice to see how good these kits are able to look!
Yes the kits have the detail, and I guess it’s up to you what the outcome is, maybe send them a message and see about shipping to the states?
as a kid, i always thought that Peter Sam, and Sir Handel were the same class since they looked similar, but i distinctly remember that i knew that Skarloey wasn’t their class, because he was “painted red, not blue and green.” my mom literally has a recording of me saying that. jus a funni lil story
That’s most likely because they came as a pair, being Corris based and not talyllyn based like Skarloey
Great job, I have been looking for a video on one of these Fourdees kits for ages 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
George. I offer the following thoughts: 1. Wash the rising print in Isopropyl Alcohol before painting. 2. If you don't want to spend the time to san out the layer lines, do your initial prime with Mr Surfacer 1000, sand then prime to support the chosen colour scheme. You need to thin the pain further to get rid of that orange peel result. Looking at your airbrushing ti seems you waste a lot of paint spraying such a small surface area; bets done with thin paint and a number of coats for smooth results. Washes are best done with oils after a finish coat of acrylic varnish. There is no hurry then when removing the oil wash to taste. You are using Ammo stains which are oil based
Great Thankyou for your suggestions!
Nice paint work, I learned some things!
Good to know
Amazing work, George! I’ve been loving watching these over breakfast 😅
Lovely to know, and love your fallout picture 😉
lol ❤ Me too xc
Looks fantastic, think I need to get one of these!
Can’t argue with a tattoo, such a good looking loco
A Cabless Tattoo hit really hard not gonna lie
It’s a unique look, but it passes!
Excellent George. Keeping up your high standard
I enjoyed that.
Noel
Thank Noel
The weathering you added looks amazing! Can't wait to see this running with the wagons that you've made so far.
I've got a Peter Sam chassis myself, might get one of the Fourdees kits for it now.
The layout will start appearing on the channel very soon!
Yes I’d recommend the fourdees kits, it’s nice that they provide them for various eras of the locomotive
That looks mega dude!
I was well impressed with my own Fourdees kit!
Great video too
Olly
Thanks mate! Which era did you go for?
@@GWilliamsonModels
The Early Pioneer one. But I caught the cab plate so it looks a little different!
Ol
Fantastic work! The weathering is top notch!
Thanks Tony, is this the first video you have watched, or do you subscribe to the channel?
@@GWilliamsonModels This was the first video I found from your channel and I’m glad I subscribed! Really liking the Corris layout build!
@@TonysNWR that’s brilliant to hear Tony, I hope you continue to watch the updates
incredible video george loved it and a tattoo is a fantastic design and well the oil points your mentioned on the cylinder's are the cylinder drain cocks they drain condensed steam (water) out of them
Thanks for clearing that up, I wasn’t sure 😅
@@GWilliamsonModels i learnt a more silly way myself so no worries mate etherway the tattoo is an epic kit
Great video. Really enjoyed watching that. So many wonderful weathering products out there now. Tried the chipping medium myself last week - natty stuff.
Glad the videos are coming in use Colin! I was really impressed with the chipping medium
And having done some quick vids myself I know how much editing time these take to make too!
@@colinlea009 I was surprised how long it actually takes to edit them! Between actually building the models and editing, it’s Basically a full time job
having seen the model at Statfold all your hard work really paid off!
were the splashguards on the real number 4 metal? or were they wood?
That’s good to know, cheers.
I believe they were sheet metal, but it’s hard to get solid references for anything that old
oh boy, I do love me-self a good Tattoo Class. I'm hoping for a Hugh Falcon 0-4-2. The model is mighty fine btw.
That’s exactly what I said to my wife today! I think ‘Sir Handel’ is coming soon from Bachmann, so fingers crossed for a Falcon body from Fourdees! Thankyou, and I hope you continue to enjoy the videos!
@@GWilliamsonModels Thank you man. and you enjoy the models :)
I tried your weathering technique on a 3D printed wagon (16mm scale), but it didn't come out as I wanted. How much water do you use with the black acrylic when putting it on, and how much do you take off with clean water?
Also, you do have to wipe it down as well with kitchen roll etc?
Sorry to hear that, how did it come out, exactly? I put the black paint on neat, and wash off with clean water on the brush every time I put it to the model. I don’t usually use anything to wipe the surface, but maybe the change in scale might be the issue. I’m currently working on 7/8th aswell, so I’ll try it on the wagons and let you know how I get on.
Though if you’re mentioning wiping with kitchen roll, it sounds like you’re wanting more of the black removed? In that case, maybe a larger brush loaded with more water? Being acrylic, you can go back to it after it’s dry and wet it again, you’ll be able to remove it
@@GWilliamsonModels I think it was the way I applied it. I watched another video about weathering on garden railway models, but I also think that I do need to use a larger brush. I did wet the brush a lot before putting the paint onto it, and then washed it off.
The way I applied it, I went with the planks (as its a slate wagon with no sides and so is flat), and you can see that in the paint. Is it normally better to do it very randomly?
@@SteamLance ah ok, you mean like the talyllyn 2 bar slate wagons? Im assuming the black has left clear ‘tide marks’ on the flat surfaces? If so, I think what I would do now is get a smaller brush, wet it, and feather the black edge into the planks a bit, almost like blurring the line
The 3D print is lighter than the die cast Peter Sam shell. How did you make yours heavier to compensate or is it just really bad at pulling things too?
It is lighter, but it can still pull 3D printed coaches as I’ve seen it done. I haven’t tried mine with full trains yet
I’ll be getting my own Peter Sam chassis soon, but taking apart the chassis apart to paint the cylinders scares me. Is it relatively straightforward? I’m worried about the wheels and gear not being quartered after reassembly.
No it’s not tricky, and you can pull the wheel sets out and keep them all as one piece so you won’t lose the quartering
@@GWilliamsonModelsI did it, but only after losing one of the slide bars 4 times in the carpet. But it was worth it!
Sadly I can’t get this conversation kit here in the states.
Have you tried directly contacting Fourdees? They might be able to help you out
Can you easily remove the face from the stock body? Nice job btw.
Yes you can, but you need a smoke box door to put in its place (like skarloey if you saw my skarloey challenge)
@@GWilliamsonModels will that fit Peter Sam as well? Also are the Peter Sam name badges easy to pull off? Thanks for your help.
@@douglaslangella7782 I’m not sure on the face, you would have to measure it. But the name plates are painted on, so if you wanted to remove them and keep the paint job, you would have to go really gentle on them
What paint are you using for the black wash @10:59?
Its by Mig Ammo, and just called ‘black wash’. If you have watched my previous videos, it’s the same stuff, I use it for most builds
@@GWilliamsonModels Thanks! I saw it in your latest video, but as you are thinning it with water and the paint is enamel, I wasn't sure. I would normally not use water with enamel, but it seems like an interesting method. I tried Vallejo black, but acrylic paint doesn't stay where you want it and dries to quick.
@@macnavi yeah so I use either the AMMO, which is enamel, so thinners, or Vallejo black wash, but I prefer AMMO
@@GWilliamsonModels In awe, as always, George. But also slightly confused. I've seen you use Mig Ammo 'Black Wash' on figures, and slate walls, and such, but I thought you used a wash you made from black 'School Poster Paint' on locos and rolling stock? Or have you changed your technique?
@@nigelbowley7027 sorry I just found your comment! Yes I sometimes use the ammo mig black wash, but it does give a slight sheen to the finish, which is why I started using poster paint for models so it looked more like dry crap and spot on them. The mig ammo does run through details much better though, so I use it for walling etc
👍👌✌
Im starting to twitch