Thanks for the video. I have a Euro PC with similar issue. Unfortunately during testing it seems a capacitor blew in the power brick. Was wondering if you have any suggestions how to fix this.
Thanks for the comment. Nice to see that my early videos (of even more questionable quality) are still alive out there. Capacitor... Yeah... Difficult to say from afar but from your description I would guess the X2 filter. Electrolytic capacitors usually fail silently, causing the supply to go off specs until it stops completely. If a capacitor actually blows it is usually an X2 filter on the AC input. That can be a dramatic and smelly event, but until it can be replaced it can be temporarily cut out and the supply should work fine without it. In any case, it should be reasonably easy to spot and replace the culprit for another 35 years of service.
Yeah, that’s me being lazy. To get a good flow and bond on the pins I would have had to pre-tin them, and the fresh flux on top does that for me in one go. Same for the smd components. Instead of tinning the pad + attaching the component + soldering to the other pad + reflowing the first one again (for a good bond), with extra flux the component will wiggle into place spontaneously with an immediate good bond and then all left is to solder the second pad... job done.
It really looks great! Love that computer and that monitor. Thank you for the video :)
Thanks for this video, I'm a proud Euro PC owner. A question about the mouse: the atari one is really compatible? Have you try it? Cheers from Italy.
Thanks for the video. I have a Euro PC with similar issue. Unfortunately during testing it seems a capacitor blew in the power brick. Was wondering if you have any suggestions how to fix this.
Thanks for the comment. Nice to see that my early videos (of even more questionable quality) are still alive out there. Capacitor... Yeah... Difficult to say from afar but from your description I would guess the X2 filter. Electrolytic capacitors usually fail silently, causing the supply to go off specs until it stops completely. If a capacitor actually blows it is usually an X2 filter on the AC input. That can be a dramatic and smelly event, but until it can be replaced it can be temporarily cut out and the supply should work fine without it. In any case, it should be reasonably easy to spot and replace the culprit for another 35 years of service.
are you using lead or lead-free solder?
I usually repair with what I assume is already on there. In this case 60Sn/40Pb. I try to avoid blending types and removing would not be lagom effort.
@@TheLEEC right i was just curious about the extra flux
Yeah, that’s me being lazy. To get a good flow and bond on the pins I would have had to pre-tin them, and the fresh flux on top does that for me in one go. Same for the smd components. Instead of tinning the pad + attaching the component + soldering to the other pad + reflowing the first one again (for a good bond), with extra flux the component will wiggle into place spontaneously with an immediate good bond and then all left is to solder the second pad... job done.