Overall, not a bad job. However, where you dropped the pipe down then back up is going to become a water trap. There is a lot of ground moisture in the airstream which will accumulate in the pipe and fill up in that low area of the pipe and eventually fill up. The simple solution is to install a “T” fitting in the low run of pipe and drop another suction point. Then, the water can drain back into the soil. The only downside is that you will need to borrow the core drill again. Again, good install other than that one “rookie mistake” which everyone makes when they’re learning the trade.
Pressure Tech you hit the nail on the head with the water trap.... we finally got some rain and i went downstairs and it was gurgling away. Ill have to install a drain tomorrow.
I was hoping to see how that inside piece was installed. So it has to be a couple inches below the basement floor? How has your radsn been past couple yrs?
Thank you for this. I have contacted countless radon specialists and non of them got back to me. My radon levels are so high I need it fixed ASAP so I'm going to have to do it myself.
Great video to get me started and thanks for the UA-camrs comments on the drainage and placement along the wall. I was thinking the same as Buck and putting it in a central spot.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I’m currently building a house and was interested in your input. We will be pouring the basement slab next week. Should I install a vertical 4 in pipe and just cap it off for now until the house is completed and then run a test. If everything is okay, I’ll just leave the 4 inch vertical capped off. Question, should the bottom of the vertical be in the gravel before the pour. How deep? Thanks.
Great video. Thanks! I'm in process of another test now. Previous test read 2.9. Regarding the attic its kinda dumb because nobody "lives" in the attic so who cares if "a little" radon went in there. Maybe even do a test in the attic if you cant go higher than roof line. But good thinking to do it. The mind feeling safe is a great feeling.
I have a sump pump hole in my basement...sealed and covered it. Used a computer fan to vent it. My reading went from 660 beqerels per cubic metre to 15. Tests were 3 months each same conditions. Measurements in 🇨🇦 .
You're better off having your suction point along the exterior wall rather than centrally located. There are small voids and cavities close to the wall that are good for air movement and typically run the entire perimeter. Most likely that's where the Radon is present. A more direct run would have also prevented you from having a trap in the piping that I'm sure you've noticed by now is accumulating water and blocking off suction. This becomes evident from gurgling noises from inside the pipe. Other than that, you did a nice job.
I really debated where the suction was located. I did add a drain for the trap I created. It's been working well since. I would make those changes if I were to do I again.
Some people seem to think it is also good to drill small pilot holes, like 1/2", around the perimeter walls to allow air to be sucked in. Thoughts??? Anyone have input on that? We have a full basement (my shop) and our house on the first floor had a Radon level of 12.
I was about to spend $150 on a radon monitor before I did an install but figured I’d just use the $150 towards my system. The map doesn’t have any data for my area but figured it won’t hurt to have.
The manometer hose will drip condensation into the blue liquid and compromise the reading if the hole in the pipe isn’t under where the tube connects to manometer. The drop in the pipe must have a drain line installed in it or it will certainly fill with water- this will block the airway and burn out your fan- it is recommended you install a small 2nd port in the “drop” area, this is allowed to be a 2” pipe as it’s main purpose is drainage
Great video, thank you for taking the time and showing the results. My test came back at a high of 4 so I'm strongly considering a similar install. Better safe than sorry
I probably went overboard piping it to the center. Had mine only been a 4 to start I would have went next to the foundation on an exterior wall. Either way I hope it works out for you.
I don’t understand why they suggest it go above the roofline. When running 24/7 the concentrations of radon have to be very minimal. We don’t run 90% furnaces like that or gas dryers. I don’t buy it.
From what I understand it is because the eves of the house pull air up and in, if discharge below the eve you have the potential to reintroduce it back into the house. At least that's what I was told from a licensed tech when I was talking about the same thing.
@@bucksgarage1 What I do not understand is that radon gas is over 7 times heavier than air. So if vented right above the eave, wouldn't it will begin to sink toward the eave? I guess if vented above the roof line, the wind will disperse it easier than if vented beside the house.
I bought an Airthings radon digital detector but was told by a certified radon specialist that they aren’t accurate and are usually high. I also talked to my state, Oregon, health authority and they explained they aren’t accurate because they are calibrated and after manufacturing that calibration starts to be off. I know as an electronics tech for the Navy we had to be really careful with our calibrated equipment and get it recalibrated every year or two. I would assume the same for this calibrated device which shipping with Amazon doesn’t take this into account nor is there a way to recalibrate them, that I know of!
Overall, not a bad job. However, where you dropped the pipe down then back up is going to become a water trap. There is a lot of ground moisture in the airstream which will accumulate in the pipe and fill up in that low area of the pipe and eventually fill up. The simple solution is to install a “T” fitting in the low run of pipe and drop another suction point. Then, the water can drain back into the soil. The only downside is that you will need to borrow the core drill again. Again, good install other than that one “rookie mistake” which everyone makes when they’re learning the trade.
Thanks for the heads up.
Pressure Tech you hit the nail on the head with the water trap.... we finally got some rain and i went downstairs and it was gurgling away. Ill have to install a drain tomorrow.
@@bucksgarage1 cut in a tee, then brushing reduce it down to 3/4” and put in a ball valve
Just put a 90 on the termination you will avoid water going in
I was hoping to see how that inside piece was installed. So it has to be a couple inches below the basement floor? How has your radsn been past couple yrs?
Thanks for posting. Instead of paying $20 online, getting the free test kits from the county was an awesome suggestion. I ordered mine.
Thank you for this. I have contacted countless radon specialists and non of them got back to me. My radon levels are so high I need it fixed ASAP so I'm going to have to do it myself.
Great video to get me started and thanks for the UA-camrs comments on the drainage and placement along the wall. I was thinking the same as Buck and putting it in a central spot.
Great. Just bought a new home and our level is at 12. This explains it well.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I’m currently building a house and was interested in your input. We will be pouring the basement slab next week. Should I install a vertical 4 in pipe and just cap it off for now until the house is completed and then run a test. If everything is okay, I’ll just leave the 4 inch vertical capped off. Question, should the bottom of the vertical be in the gravel before the pour. How deep? Thanks.
I don’t get what you did with the pipe into the cement. You didn’t show that. Did you simply put a hole in the concrete and stick the pipe in it. Thx
Did you dig a pit under the slab/foundation? From what a certified specialist told me, you need a certain size pit to help with the function.
I didn't because it was a bed of gravel underneath.
Great video. Thanks! I'm in process of another test now. Previous test read 2.9. Regarding the attic its kinda dumb because nobody "lives" in the attic so who cares if "a little" radon went in there. Maybe even do a test in the attic if you cant go higher than roof line. But good thinking to do it. The mind feeling safe is a great feeling.
I have a sump pump hole in my basement...sealed and covered it. Used a computer fan to vent it.
My reading went from 660 beqerels per cubic metre to 15. Tests were 3 months each same conditions. Measurements in 🇨🇦 .
How did you vent it exactly?
Great vid. My tests have been at 4 or 4.5 so I’m on the fence on install.
You're better off having your suction point along the exterior wall rather than centrally located. There are small voids and cavities close to the wall that are good for air movement and typically run the entire perimeter. Most likely that's where the Radon is present. A more direct run would have also prevented you from having a trap in the piping that I'm sure you've noticed by now is accumulating water and blocking off suction. This becomes evident from gurgling noises from inside the pipe. Other than that, you did a nice job.
I really debated where the suction was located. I did add a drain for the trap I created. It's been working well since. I would make those changes if I were to do I again.
Some people seem to think it is also good to drill small pilot holes, like 1/2", around the perimeter walls to allow air to be sucked in.
Thoughts??? Anyone have input on that? We have a full basement (my shop) and our house on the first floor had a Radon level of 12.
I was about to spend $150 on a radon monitor before I did an install but figured I’d just use the $150 towards my system. The map doesn’t have any data for my area but figured it won’t hurt to have.
The manometer hose will drip condensation into the blue liquid and compromise the reading if the hole in the pipe isn’t under where the tube connects to manometer. The drop in the pipe must have a drain line installed in it or it will certainly fill with water- this will block the airway and burn out your fan- it is recommended you install a small 2nd port in the “drop” area, this is allowed to be a 2” pipe as it’s main purpose is drainage
Thx for the video. Where is the air being drawn into the pipe? It looks like the pipe is resting on the floor or is it in the floor?
I drilled a 4.5 inch hole in the concrete and it's down to the limestone underneath the concrete.
Great video, thank you for taking the time and showing the results. My test came back at a high of 4 so I'm strongly considering a similar install. Better safe than sorry
I probably went overboard piping it to the center. Had mine only been a 4 to start I would have went next to the foundation on an exterior wall. Either way I hope it works out for you.
Great video thanks 🙏
Any updates on current radon levels after a year of use?
I haven't done any tests since.
Can check again when it’s winter. I wonder if it’s going to be higher than 4
Great video about how long did it take to install? I have 2 little girls and play room in in the basement so radon is worrying me
It took the better part of a day. It would have been much faster if I wouldn't have centrally located the pipe.
Do you have a gravel foundation under your basement concrete slab?
Yes
I don’t understand why they suggest it go above the roofline. When running 24/7 the concentrations of radon have to be very minimal. We don’t run 90% furnaces like that or gas dryers. I don’t buy it.
From what I understand it is because the eves of the house pull air up and in, if discharge below the eve you have the potential to reintroduce it back into the house. At least that's what I was told from a licensed tech when I was talking about the same thing.
@@bucksgarage1thank you
@@bucksgarage1 What I do not understand is that radon gas is over 7 times heavier than air. So if vented right above the eave, wouldn't it will begin to sink toward the eave? I guess if vented above the roof line, the wind will disperse it easier than if vented beside the house.
My house is coming in at 41pCi/L!!! The Radon Mitigation companies in Florida all want ov er $4000. Help!
You made a mistake with that drop, water condensate is going to accumulate in that low section.
You sir are 100% correct. I have since put in a drain.
It is not 1.5 inches, it is 2 inches of water column.
Do you have a video of the actual installation?
I do not. Its really just fitting pipes together. I wanted to show that it wasn't a enormous task and what the end results are.
Question , so the ground pipe is how long deep?
i just paid $100 for a digital radon meter that i always keep on
I bought an Airthings radon digital detector but was told by a certified radon specialist that they aren’t accurate and are usually high. I also talked to my state, Oregon, health authority and they explained they aren’t accurate because they are calibrated and after manufacturing that calibration starts to be off. I know as an electronics tech for the Navy we had to be really careful with our calibrated equipment and get it recalibrated every year or two. I would assume the same for this calibrated device which shipping with Amazon doesn’t take this into account nor is there a way to recalibrate them, that I know of!
Do it your self and shows none of the dyi
Moze ktos przetlumaczy na polski ta stara technologie
Wouldn't trust that test...
exactly! It seems like this issue could have "racket" potential.