I have just spent the WHOLE damn night watching this guys videos excellent teaching and explanation between steps. Excuse me while i go outside and start building stuff for no reason lmao
yes, good video. Agree with previous comment. In Minnesota we were required to protect untreated wood where it contacts foundation concrete blocks or poured walls. Other than that, great job.
I bought a house that had the pockets in the foundation like that. Almost all the wood was rotten where the wood made direct contact with the foundation. The house was only 10 years old and the inspector recommended some expensive repairs to be made. I thing something should be laid between the wood and the concrete, also steel shims seem like they would be better ?
Unless those beams are PT then you will need a break between the boards and the blocks. The cement will cause a reaction to the boards and they will decay faster. Also that is an entry point for termites. I have used tar paper since it does not add much thickness. If you dry lay the beams all at once then come back and use clamps and then nail, your beam will be much stronger. I would also consider using screws for part of the beam since they don't pull out like nails can.
i am concerned the contact from concrete to wood as well, i think simpson ties has great products to go, either on the side or top of the foundation, as well as holding the beam to the middle posts or concrete columns; other wise huge problems on the way...
Nice video ... I always glued and/or PL and clamped when I built mine ... and finished with a Timberlock screw every every 24 inches alternating top and bottom and from either side ... 30 years of building code plus ... mostly historical restoration ... and yes, engineered beams are great (as is steel) but building your own is cheaper and gives you greater flexibility on install in tight places ...
@volkan_boston You need to look at local building code, but the joints in a beam need to be directly over the supporting post or at the quarter point near the posts. There's usually a little wiggle room, but that will be part of building code how much room you have to play with
@@TheExcellentLaborer How high do girders need to be? Same height as seal plate on exterior walls? Can you explain their height needs? Do joists just rest on them or are joists anchored to girders? Do you build footers for girders?
This is a honest question ive only been live on a full house build once in my life and it was W.V its code there for termite shield. Is that not expected everywhere? I honestly have no clue
Hey, getting ready to build my first beam soon. One question, why do you not sit the beam on a treated sill at the piers? Thanks for the videos! You have been a big help!
Backtrack Great question. It sits directly on the block peers. No pressure treated plate between. You are welcome for the videos. I’m glad they are helpful! That makes it worth it to me.
can you level the whole house with just a carpenters level? Because you were leveling a pretty long distance there going from pier to pier, instead of like using a laser or string line from one level mark to another at the very end. But that is good to know if that works and the house ends up fine, I just wanted to know
You could use a string line in combination with a level and get it pretty darn close. I have seen people use transit before as well for leveling across the major floor. It all depends on what resources you have. I hope that helps!
I have a question. What size nails did you use in your nail gun to put the beams together. Also did you nail it on both sides? I have a 21° nailer and I will be going with 3 thick like you have but only 32' long. Also should I use ring shanks or smooth? Thanks any help would be great.
Dude, u need to lay tar paper between the cement blocks. Personally, I coat everything near the joint in tar and spray non treated lumber w/ a heavy concentration of boric acid & ethylene glycol. Just my 2 cents.
Is the sill plate pressure-treated? Maybe out in your neck of the woods they look different. Our pressure treated 2x6’s are reddish in color. And have track-markings.
Narrow ass wood shims are stupid. Any wood shims are stupid. They will smash down to nothing within a couple years, maybe faster if crawlspace isn't treated and stay damp. And 8' spans between piers is nuts! I don't care what some engineer or engineering firm said. I've been under hundreds of homes (single story and 2 story alike) that had squashed shims everywhere, sunken piers, and sagging main beams between piers. Dumbest thing I see is double joists under load bearing walls positioned in middle of span between piers on the main beam. All those things are why houses get retrofit with steel shims, supplemental steel jacks that are adjustable, and supplemental beam where needed.
Have you ever built a girder beam?
Do you grout where the beam sit at in the block pocket?
No, but thanks for helping me learn
I have just spent the WHOLE damn night watching this guys videos excellent teaching and explanation between steps. Excuse me while i go outside and start building stuff for no reason lmao
I love your channel. Your videos make me feel like I can actually build a house myself. Thank you for sharing and teaching. You are a good teacher.
Studying for my airforce structural class! This helped thank you
Glad I could be helpful! Be sure to subscribe and ring the bell
yes, good video. Agree with previous comment. In Minnesota we were required to protect untreated wood where it contacts foundation concrete blocks or poured walls. Other than that, great job.
I bought a house that had the pockets in the foundation like that. Almost all the wood was rotten where the wood made direct contact with the foundation. The house was only 10 years old and the inspector recommended some expensive repairs to be made. I thing something should be laid between the wood and the concrete, also steel shims seem like they would be better ?
yeah that shim was just some piece of pitchwood and it wasn't even PT
Thanks for the demonstration. I did not understand why you used the string and how it is used.
Hey Ian! The string line is used to keep the beam straight. More or less a reference line. Hope that helps!
Unless those beams are PT then you will need a break between the boards and the blocks. The cement will cause a reaction to the boards and they will decay faster. Also that is an entry point for termites. I have used tar paper since it does not add much thickness. If you dry lay the beams all at once then come back and use clamps and then nail, your beam will be much stronger. I would also consider using screws for part of the beam since they don't pull out like nails can.
i am concerned the contact from concrete to wood as well, i think simpson ties has great products to go, either on the side or top of the foundation, as well as holding the beam to the middle posts or concrete columns; other wise huge problems on the way...
Nails have the better shear strength. I have never seen one pull out and I have never heard from anyone that the nails pull out.
Any support lumber on concrete should be pressure treated code in most states
Nice video ... I always glued and/or PL and clamped when I built mine ... and finished with a Timberlock screw every every 24 inches alternating top and bottom and from either side ... 30 years of building code plus ... mostly historical restoration ... and yes, engineered beams are great (as is steel) but building your own is cheaper and gives you greater flexibility on install in tight places ...
@volkan_boston
You need to look at local building code, but the joints in a beam need to be directly over the supporting post or at the quarter point near the posts.
There's usually a little wiggle room, but that will be part of building code how much room you have to play with
Thanks for all your videos I watch them all the time, what is the maximum span That you can use between the posts for 2 x 10×3 thanks
Very helpful information
Thanks Pedro!
Keep up the good work! just descriptive enough and your videos are just long enough.
I appreciate that!
@@TheExcellentLaborer How high do girders need to be? Same height as seal plate on exterior walls? Can you explain their height needs? Do joists just rest on them or are joists anchored to girders? Do you build footers for girders?
This is a honest question ive only been live on a full house build once in my life and it was W.V its code there for termite shield. Is that not expected everywhere? I honestly have no clue
So, the three 2X10s resting on each of those cinder blocks can just rest on them without being braced? Would that pass code?
Lateral support will come from the joists when they are nailed into place.
Hey, getting ready to build my first beam soon. One question, why do you not sit the beam on a treated sill at the piers? Thanks for the videos! You have been a big help!
Backtrack Great question. It sits directly on the block peers. No pressure treated plate between. You are welcome for the videos. I’m glad they are helpful! That makes it worth it to me.
I guess Im pretty off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Kamryn Damian Flixportal :)
@Lorenzo Magnus thank you, I went there and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !!
@Kamryn Damian You are welcome :)
would it have been better to laminate them with adhesive together until no seam for more support?
Yes, gluing the boards makes a stronger beam. Also good to use large C-clamps to clamp boards together tight and then shoot nails into boards.
can you level the whole house with just a carpenters level? Because you were leveling a pretty long distance there going from pier to pier, instead of like using a laser or string line from one level mark to another at the very end.
But that is good to know if that works and the house ends up fine, I just wanted to know
You could use a string line in combination with a level and get it pretty darn close. I have seen people use transit before as well for leveling across the major floor. It all depends on what resources you have. I hope that helps!
Thanks
Sure!
Can use 2x12 for the girder beam or is 2x10 a better option.
It all depends on the load on the girder. I like the 3 -2x10 method. Good questions!
Ok got a 75’x 34’ home I want to build single story. 3 ply good and last is it pressure treated or is it called a joist. Thanks
Does my 2x10 girders need to be treated ?
I have a question. What size nails did you use in your nail gun to put the beams together. Also did you nail it on both sides? I have a 21° nailer and I will be going with 3 thick like you have but only 32' long. Also should I use ring shanks or smooth? Thanks any help would be great.
Ring shank would be better than smooth nails. 16D nails are the best option. Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer yep. Thanks.
How deep is the concrete pad under the blocks?
8 inches thick per code in my area
Where are you? I’m in an area with no codes or permits
My girder is 32" long with !0" center. I can't get 20" long wood. How do you suggest doing my girder?
Dude, u need to lay tar paper between the cement blocks. Personally, I coat everything near the joint in tar and spray non treated lumber w/ a heavy concentration of boric acid & ethylene glycol. Just my 2 cents.
thanks that's very helpful
add a piece of 1/2 inch plywood on each side of the middle 2x10 to increase the strength of your beam and it will never sag.
Could two 2x10s be used as a girter?
Standard practice is to use 3. Depends on how far apart your peers are. But I would just go with three
Need sill plates and a membrane between concrete and untreated wood.
You're very handy! I wish I had the money to pay you to build me a home. 😊
You can do it too if you wanted. Keep working at it and you can do it! Thanks for your support!
@@TheExcellentLaborer You're very welcome. 😊 Yes, building my home does sound nice. I still would need a skilled man to guide me through the process.
Thanks a lot , very helpful 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
No problem Pedro!
Smart guy
U do a good job i wish u where close to me
You need flashing where the wood touching concrete, felt,wrap, or roof flashing. Ok I'm just watching, not inspection. Great job
Thanks for watching! Stay tuned!
If those 2x10s aren't pressure treated they need to not touch the concrete.
Is the sill plate pressure-treated? Maybe out in your neck of the woods they look different. Our pressure treated 2x6’s are reddish in color. And have track-markings.
Lag screws...
Disregard. I hadn’t seen the lighter-colored pressure treated 2x6. Most of my clients pay for the less expensive traditional colored 2x6’s
Narrow ass wood shims are stupid. Any wood shims are stupid. They will smash down to nothing within a couple years, maybe faster if crawlspace isn't treated and stay damp. And 8' spans between piers is nuts! I don't care what some engineer or engineering firm said. I've been under hundreds of homes (single story and 2 story alike) that had squashed shims everywhere, sunken piers, and sagging main beams between piers. Dumbest thing I see is double joists under load bearing walls positioned in middle of span between piers on the main beam. All those things are why houses get retrofit with steel shims, supplemental steel jacks that are adjustable, and supplemental beam where needed.
Tuuubah tens
Sorry to be a naysayer but, those shims have to go.