Thank you for the information. I just got the blue bowl by itself. I do some fabrication so I will be making the levelers and using a swamp cooler pump I already have. The bucket the blue bowl sits on will be sitting in a larger tub with the pump in the tub, this way all the cons will be in the catch bucket and not in the water the pump is sitting in.
Thank you for your free advices. I like the way you reason out your processes. You make it fairly easy to comprehend ! - Kevin - Gippsland 'Down Under'
According to the manufacturer's instructions, the distance from the top edge of the bowl is dependent on the classified sizes to prevent "blowing gold out". You also should not run material coarser than 30 mesh.
You have to make water inlet 1 more then it will work and use the electro magnet to remove black sand actually black sand is metal like iron you also know that. (LOVE from NEPAL)
I have been thinking of getting a Blue Bowl to process my black sands, this looks like a much safer method than using mercury and it looks as though it will do as good a job. What is the best size to classify down to? 150 mesh, 200 mesh?
Greetings. I would argue that 100 mesh is the standard, and that is what I use. 100 mesh is what most rock crushers grind down to. One could make a solid argument for the use of 150 mesh for beach sands, however. Gold is about 4x heavier than black sand, and I do think that once all the particles get really small (beyond 100 mesh) there is less and less need for their size being completely homogeneous. However, the chemist in me says if you are a purest and wish an absolute and optimal performance, you would begin with 150 mesh, and then work again with 100 mesh. I always do a very quick pan of my waste, and usually find a few very small particles of gold, but just a few. Those I just spoon out and place in the next batch of concentrates. Sorry for such a long winded question, but I give you a real answer!
I do not know. But the material will need to be quite small (and lightweight) for the water to lift it upwards and guide it into the hole. Let me pose a different question. "At what size mesh does the bowl cease to become useful?" I am going to suggest somewhere around 50. But that is only my guesstimate. For me, anything larger than 100 I can take directly from my pan, so the use of my blue bowl goes no further. I simply double that size for those that are not so experienced. In the end, you will need to test for yourself. Thanks for the questions!
Your pump should be in a different bucket. Otherwise it will just pump the black sand back into the bowl. Get a long plastic tote and set two 5gal buckets in it. Fill everything up with water, set the blue bowl on one and the pump in the other. Add a little jet dry and run it. The water stays very clean with this method. It's the same thing you are doing, but cleaner.
Yes oden4rs, but the mesh on the bilge pump is still very large in comparison to the fine sands (at least) I am processing . . . Maybe the sands you process are richer and more coarse? But my goal in using the kit is to process all of the material with as much efficiency as possible--so that means straining out even the very finest of material. Thanks!
The best set up I've found is to use a 3 gal bucket to set up the bowl, and place this in a plastic tub where the pump is held by a bracket that hangs off the side of the tub. The blue bowl bucket has been marked where the leveling legs go for quick and easy setup. The water drains into the bucket, where everything drops to the bottom, and then the bucket slowly overflows clean water back into the tub where the pump then recirculates the much cleaner water back into the blue bowl. A cap-full or two of the jet dry is plenty for about 6 or 7 gallons of water. I've recovered a bunch of -100 and -200 gold using this baby over the last 2 years and I love it. Also, make sure you classify your concentrates into uniform sizes I.E. -30, -50, -100 for fastest processing and best results.
Thanks #Badbeau for this update! Sounds like I'll be using your ideas along with #callmebe 's video here. Great advice shared! Thanks Much! Now to buy my Blue Bowl to go with my Gold Cube.
Great video! Can you tell me a little info behind the black sand you put into the bowl? How was it mined and what processes had the black sand and gold gone through to get to this point of being ready to blue bowl it? Jaw crushing or ran through impact grinder? Classifying? how much? Sluicing or Gold Cubing? Thanks in advance! :)
Hello WarbirdPR! I classify at 100 mesh for the blue bowl, which is what you see here. Your optimal performance will always be with concentrates that are of a similar size. The bowl will then sort them out via weight. Best to deposit in the bowl too little sands (there is no such thing, actually) rather than too much. So two or three spoonfuls of concentrate would be ideal. More than that invites gold getting carried away with the blank sand, as it might not have a chance to settle. If you are in doubt, pan your waste and if there is gold, simply reprocess with your next run. No big deal. This example used material from the S. Stillaguamish River, Robe Canyon area (see my videos--I am quite specific in them). The gold is glacial, so it is usually quite flat. The black sands are not so glacial--and are of mixed shape, so the gold has a tenancy to ride over their top. So, less is more. Here it is best to process with a small mesh (100) and a modest amount of material (two spoon full). The gold was all recovered using a Royal sluice system (see my review). I hope that answers your questions. As far as the blue bowl, it will produce excellent results, provided that you keep in mind the first paragraph. WPR, ask more questions if you need! And, good luck in your gold getting!!
@callmeBe - or - anyone that can answer this ! -- Will the blue bowl remove beach type sand or Only black sand? Where I live and prospect, it is always sand left at the end of my pans. I am aware I am looking for flour gold, which is why I want to invest in the Blue Bowl, but no one has been able to give me an answer if it will remove beach type sand? I fear I am losing a lot of fine flour gold in the sand. - Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
Hi MitchieR. As long as the size of the materials you put in the bowl is homogeneous, it will do a good job of separation for you. So, yes, if the particles of sand are relatively the same size as your black dirt, it will work. And, you should see that sand leave the blue bowl first (migrate towards the center hole) as all of the placed material begins to stratify. Now why you are getting that sand in your concentrates is a whole new question. All things being equal, you may consider a gold cube (they are expensive) to process your beach sands more efficiently. Good luck!
Hello Doug. Well, it depends upon how much you use it. But a deep cell will generally last about 5 years with modest use ( maybe 15 hours of use a month). 4 years if you use it twice as much. They are a good value, Doug.
I have an old car battery hooked to a trickle charger, 1 or 2 amps, and I plug it when I run the bowl and unplug it when done, it's been going for years- think the low amperage of the pump it just runs off the charger, but the battery does hold a charge, not for a car, but has enough to run the pump overnight! I forgot once.
I sold all my stuff and retired, Ebay is probably the best place. Make sure when you,ale purchase you also buy the shims. that way your blue bowl sits flat. It will not work if it is not dialed in flat. The tubing you can get cheaply from any hardware store, and the water pump you can easily buy used on ebay.
@@callmeBe I use a 1 or 2-amp trickle charger with an old car battery that won't hold a charge for a car but powers the pump fine, just plug it in to use, and unplug when done. Any auto parts store has them and runs $20- $25.
In my area gold is fine and flat. (0.1 - 2mm) Many times tried to wash it through the blue bowl, but nothing works, even at minimum water speed the gold is washed away with the sand. Maybe the Miller table can help, it seems to hold flat gold better.
Have you tired cleaning your bowl with dishwashing soap? If there is an oil film on the gold--it will float away. When your machine comes from the manufacturer, oiled metal parts are used to make it, and so residual oil is usually found in the bowl. Clean your bucket below also, as any oil on it will transfer into your bowl. Also, put just a few drops of dishwashing soap in your water when you begin--every time. It acts as a surfactant, making sure that the water touches all surfaces of the gold. I never had your problem with the blue bowl, and used it on flat glacial gold. So, it can work. Remember, when you pan your gold you do not use the river pan technique. THere is a special technique you need to use, or gold will float out of your pan. Let me know if you continue to have issues . . .
@@callmeBe Thanks for answer! :) Yes, I washed it very well according to the instructions, there should be no oil inside. The gold is mine from the adventure scluice, then I put it in the blue bowl and try to clean, but at any speed, it all washes out. I even added the Dream Mate inside hoping it would help, but the effect is almost the same as without it. And there is a lot of gold in my spot, I once extracted 5 grams of gold from 2 kilograms of sand just by hand, but it is very long and tedious. I am trying to find a technology to clean my sand with fine gold, but so far I can't think of anything...
@@teolegrande304 It is going to be very difficult. Don't do mercury! I would still put a surfactant in your bowl, to insure total surface contact with water. Because the gold is so very fine, then the only other thing it could be, because the bowl is an absolute study in physics, and it can not fail if everything is right, is your mesh is not fine enough. You need the very smallest mesh you can find. If you are losing gold, the iron weighs more, or at least as much, and so you need to decrease the difference in weight. Therefor, no matter how fine your mesh is, you need something smaller and finer. I would not search gold mining stores. I would search industrial supply stores. Try Amazon with HYHMJ-Industrial Metal Mesh 6 Mesh - 20 Mesh - 80 Mesh. I will bet your mesh is not 80 mesh fine . . .
@@callmeBe I have different classifiers and 80 mash too. I'm always sorting all the material. I get two kinds of sand with gold in it. The first is a little bigger, with 0.5-2 mm gold, and the second material contains all the gold less than 0.5 mm. The blue bowl flushes both. I think my material has a lot of sand in it and that's why the blue bowl doesn't work as it should. But I have a very hard time flushing sand by hand, a lot gets lost :) I will experiment, because it's a shame, so much gold nearby, but I can't get it :) Thanks for the tips!
@@teolegrande304 I understand, but that is what I was saying before. You don't pan your kind of gold like river gold. You need a specific pan, a surfactant, and a different technique--where you swirl very little if any, and the process is technique sensitive. Let me get you a link. Yea, the less material you have to seperate, the better recovery you will have. You want to follow Keith from UA-cam's "Hard Rock University." He is a great guy, has a tremendous amount of experience, and is an excellent teacher (also was a friend--old geezers stick together--but I have not talked with him in years). Don't expect classy videos. I see where here is using 300-500 mesh. 80 is way too big. (I don't have that much experience with microgold). watch this: ua-cam.com/video/IPEUJQi7-Lc/v-deo.html If you write him, he always answers quickly with reasonable content. But I think your problems is basic: probably mesh related, and you need to always use a surfactant. (which he covers in this film).
Diesel Ramcharger Yes, with assembly connect + first. When disconnecting the - is removed first to prevent an arc. (Just like a car battery). Thanks for your correction!
All H20 pumps have a filter built in (even the hand pumps). If you unscrew the bottom you can clean them out with your fingers. You can purchase a fine mesh screen that fits over the top where the intake air is. It would be kind of like a hair net--and that would useful when using something like a highbanker when your pump is placed directly in a stream, but here you won't need it. In fact, you'll probably never need to clean your pump for the blue bowl. It will be the larger rocks, leaves, and out and out mud that will clog it up. So, no worries. Glad you have enough gold to consider this system!
No gold here in NYC, except for jewelry, But I want to go panning in New England someday. I am studying up on it. What I figure is that I need to concentrate on the fine, fine gold that is not obvious to the eye. And that means that the right equipment is crucial. I want nothing to do with mercury, if I can help it. I want to experiment with my own clean up equipment. What I know about New England gold panning is that you are limited as to what methods you can use on state land. If I can earn 100-200 dollars a day, I'll be content. I might be asking a lot. What do you think? Is 200 bucks a day realistic?
I saw a program about a dude who was cleaning NYC gold off sidewalks near a section where there was a heavy concentration of jewelry stores that did fabrication, etc. I guess the dust was coming off the workers as they exited the stores. He was also finding small gem stones. I don't know anything about mining in New England. I have seen a little placer gold found in Vermont. That is as much as I know. The GPAA (Gold Prospector's Association of America) would be the best source for your information. For every state they do a handbook of the claims they own, tell you exactly where they are, and also review them (tell you a little about how much people report finding. Their information is reliable, and it is a good organization. It use to be about $75.00 a year to join. I think you're going to have to go some to average $100.00 a day. I'll never say "no" to hopeful thinking, but many of us are not that lucky. I'll do better than that with my mine, but it's hardrock and out west where gold (and silver) is far more plentiful. Check out the GPAA and you will get your most reliable info. FYI, if you're counting on separating microscopic gold, forget it. It will never be worth your time as a small prospector. If you can't see it in your black sands, it ain't worth the time/effort to recover it . . . Sorry I cannot be more hopeful about that, but I am truthful! Good luck! B.
callmeBe I know about GPAA, but it is going to be a long time before I can get out of NYC to live anywhere where I can pan or sluice for gold. I know that I'll have to run a lot of dirt to get a little gold. I think it is going to be more of a hobby than a nice payday. I'll be in my late 60s or early 70s before I can get out of NYC. But getting some gold in on my bucket list. I'm going to do it.
Having a bucket list is very important. So may some of those buckets be filled with paydirt! Meanwhile, a hobby would be a more realistic way of thinking things through. Good luck, and keep those warm thoughts!
Brian, when you order a kit you usually get a choice as to the size of the Johnson pump. A 500 gph pump (about $23.00 cost, and is an ok size) draws 2 amps, a 750 gph pump draws 2.6 amps (standard on most of the kits). Johnson also makes a 1000 gph pump which draws 4.5 amps, but you do not need such a volume of water for this application. Thanks for the question!
Is the 750 gph hour pump really necessary and would a 264 gph electric pump work just as well(hubby will only let me use the 264 gph pump and not the one that came with the blue bowl)
@@KristyN12012 I have a 750 gph bilge pump and I have to dial it back, how much, I don't know. Why won't hubby let you use the one that came with, is he setting you up to fail, or do you have bad luck with pumps? The pump he recommends I think might be a little on the low side, but if you can push water over the rim it will work fine, good luck.
i am working with 50 mesh material, the blue bowl no matter how slow i have the water circulation in the bowl, will take both the (few) gold pieces as well as the non gold material. i am trying to figure a way to stop this from happening, everything goes into the bowl at the bottom, but i may as well have just put a spoonful of material directly into the bottom bowl.
Hello. 50 mesh is about as large a material as the bowl can take, so you should be fine there. It should process it easily. I would bet that your bowl is not exactly flat to the floor. Even when you are not even by a tiny bit, you will loose gold. There is a inexpensive kit that is independent from the basic bowl which helps you to insure everything is flat. Of course, check with a level at several directions also. I hope that is your problem. It is easy to solve. Oh, also, place just a titch of wetting solution in your bowl also. Any dish washing soap will do. Just a titch! (Make sure you have also washed your bowl with soap, as it does come with a small coating of oil).
@@callmeBe well my BB is as level as i can make it, i have a large and a small level to double check each other, the small one i set on the inner cone, the large one i set on the bowl itself, just to make sure, so all good on the level part. i use jetdry in my BB, my problem is not floaters, the non gold material is basically the same size as the few pieces of gold i fine, i run the water speed slow but i still see the water flow move gold and same size non gold material around and slowly up the cone. i run my BB on top of a nugget bucket, so i still catch it all at the bottom, but its just extra work for me when BB pulls the gold and the rocks up out and down. i have had my BB for over a year now trying to get a positive action from my BB, so the new oil coating is long gone.
If it is as you say Zemetrius, then the process must work. Not should work. Must. It runs off of simple physics, which you have provided. This is not a demeaning question, but are you absolutely sure that is gold in your finds?
@@callmeBe just to be sure it worked, i added some that i had found just to make sure it would work. so the test batch did have some in there, but it took what i put in there with the non gold material and sent it to the bowl in bottom of the nugget bucket.
And you are sure what you have is gold?? Again, if everything is as you say, the system works perfectly off of physics. You simply control all the variables (speed of water, same sized mesh, bowl flat to the floor, no oil introduced, etc) and the system can't help but work. There are no exceptions. I can only suggest calling either the manufacturer, or the dealer from whom you bought the bowl from. Or further testing, say, with gold from a known source (buy some mesh gold on eBay--I see several that sell 50 mesh, but you will need to talk them down to a very small amount). Then, when you have satisfactory results, let us know here on this channel . . .
Are your "black sand" always black? Where i dig my gold there are lots of real heavy blonde sand. I met a guy in the same river, and he complained that he always forgot how hard the sand was to pan in that specific river from one trip to the next. But more or less all videos on youtube display real black sand and bright gold?
Greetings Lasse! Black sand is always just that--black, and will be magnetic, as it is composed mostly of iron products such as magnetite (Fe3O4) and hematite (Fe203). The only time you will see iron products as another color (red) is if they have oxidized (rusted). But the latter is just in load mining--not placer. When gold combines with other metals (copper or sulfur and iron) it can loose some of its characteristic color and shine, as in various forms of chalcopyrite. But placer gold will always present in a way that when you see it, you will know immediately what it is. So sorry Lasse, I have no idea about your heavy blonde sand. I will write though, that it is not an iron product. Are you sure gold is associated with it?
Thank you for replying. Yes I get gold out of it. There are a tiny bit of magnetic black sand present, but very little compared to other places. There is also a goldmine blasting from solid ore further up the river, and I know gold from pyrite. The consentrate pans out fairly, but the blonde stuff seems to have density close to the black sand. Didn't know of anything else before I met this guy claming the gold from that river was far worse to pan than from other rivers. Thought gold always was that hard to recover ;) Lasse
"Gold from pyrite." Maybe the blond material is various sulfides--mostly from that pyrite, which can be quite heavy and will not show much iron (the iron is still incorporated into it, but will not show black). And, the gold you are finding may not be very pure, so it will be a more dull color (especially if it has a lot of copper in it). That is the case in some of the placers around here in Western Nevada.
I have come across blonde same every once in a Blue Moon or so and that is exactly what it is, blonde sand. Other than the color, it pans out like black too, but other than not being rich in values I moved on, I couldn't give you any ideas of what it is. It does exist and good luck!
Amy, any mining supply will carry them--look online under "Blue Bowl, gold." The full kit would include the bowl, 3 plastic leg levelers (make sure you get these), 750 gallon per hour 12 volt pump, several feet of 3/4 inch flex hose, pair of battery clips, and instructions, (you will not find any that include straining mesh--a super cheap alternative is using a metal tea strainer). With all of the above a kit will sell around $150 to include shipping. Amy, note you will also need a bucket over which to set the bowl, and an energy source for your pump. (Usually that is a deep cell ((also called cycle)) battery (can get at any hardware store), and you will need a recharger for the battery). All told, about $200.00.
Well, other than purity, gold is basically gold. So as long as it is in a mesh form, it will recover using this system. The limiting factor will always be that you finely mesh ALL your material. If you screw stuff up--run the water too fast, don't properly mesh, than you can always process again. Nothing is ever lost until you throw it away. One thing to consider, if your finds include micro gold, this system would probably not fully work, because the gold will be lighter than your sands--as your sands have relative thickness, whereas the gold would not--yet both having the same relative size.
Not in my pans, Cody. But when that happens there is oil in the pan and you just need to clean stuff out with a surfactant (dishwashing soap works fine). This is especially true with gold that is particularly flat and heavily worn.
Pretty cool record holder back there
Thank you for the information. I just got the blue bowl by itself. I do some fabrication so I will be making the levelers and using a swamp cooler pump I already have. The bucket the blue bowl sits on will be sitting in a larger tub with the pump in the tub, this way all the cons will be in the catch bucket and not in the water the pump is sitting in.
Thank you for your free advices. I like the way you reason out your processes. You make it fairly easy to comprehend !
- Kevin - Gippsland 'Down Under'
Another good video! I need to do this for the concentrates I'm pulling from Butte creak. Classify classify with a simple Tea strainer good stuff!
Presented and explained very well. Thanks
Must have device for every gold refiner
Thanks for video
thanks for the instructions!
Nicely done
Thanks for posting this, appreciated....
Dean Olson Hey Dean, I saw your Rogue River mining video. Very nice stuff! Thanks and let's keep in touch . . .
Liked and subscribed, great tutorial.
Thanks for the tutorial. Use a paint brush to sweep your gold into happy little piles
According to the manufacturer's instructions, the distance from the top edge of the bowl is dependent on the classified sizes to prevent "blowing gold out". You also should not run material coarser than 30 mesh.
Thanks about the 30 mesh sizing, needed to know that.
Cool video :)
Might be a good combination cube gold first, then processed with blue bow?
Nice job.
It's always positive first when hooking up a battery and reverse when disconnecting
thank you
You can use the blue bowl to 'move' ALL of those fines-to the center of the bowl. Much easier to snuff up.
You have to make water inlet 1 more then it will work and use the electro magnet to remove black sand actually black sand is metal like iron you also know that. (LOVE from NEPAL)
Nice Gold👍
This was all glacial gold from the South Fork of the Stillaguamish River in western Washington. Beautiful area, good gold. Thanks!
I have been thinking of getting a Blue Bowl to process my black sands, this looks like a much safer method than using mercury and it looks as though it will do as good a job. What is the best size to classify down to? 150 mesh, 200 mesh?
Greetings. I would argue that 100 mesh is the standard, and that is what I use. 100 mesh is what most rock crushers grind down to. One could make a solid argument for the use of 150 mesh for beach sands, however. Gold is about 4x heavier than black sand, and I do think that once all the particles get really small (beyond 100 mesh) there is less and less need for their size being completely homogeneous. However, the chemist in me says if you are a purest and wish an absolute and optimal performance, you would begin with 150 mesh, and then work again with 100 mesh. I always do a very quick pan of my waste, and usually find a few very small particles of gold, but just a few. Those I just spoon out and place in the next batch of concentrates. Sorry for such a long winded question, but I give you a real answer!
Thanks for the answer, I don't think it's long winded at all, I have another question. What is the largest mesh size that the Blue Bowl can process?
I do not know. But the material will need to be quite small (and lightweight) for the water to lift it upwards and guide it into the hole. Let me pose a different question. "At what size mesh does the bowl cease to become useful?" I am going to suggest somewhere around 50. But that is only my guesstimate. For me, anything larger than 100 I can take directly from my pan, so the use of my blue bowl goes no further. I simply double that size for those that are not so experienced. In the end, you will need to test for yourself. Thanks for the questions!
Thanks.
Your pump should be in a different bucket. Otherwise it will just pump the black sand back into the bowl. Get a long plastic tote and set two 5gal buckets in it. Fill everything up with water, set the blue bowl on one and the pump in the other. Add a little jet dry and run it. The water stays very clean with this method. It's the same thing you are doing, but cleaner.
Yes oden4rs, but the mesh on the bilge pump is still very large in comparison to the fine sands (at least) I am processing . . . Maybe the sands you process are richer and more coarse? But my goal in using the kit is to process all of the material with as much efficiency as possible--so that means straining out even the very finest of material. Thanks!
The best set up I've found is to use a 3 gal bucket to set up the bowl, and place this in a plastic tub where the pump is held by a bracket that hangs off the side of the tub. The blue bowl bucket has been marked where the leveling legs go for quick and easy setup. The water drains into the bucket, where everything drops to the bottom, and then the bucket slowly overflows clean water back into the tub where the pump then recirculates the much cleaner water back into the blue bowl. A cap-full or two of the jet dry is plenty for about 6 or 7 gallons of water. I've recovered a bunch of -100 and -200 gold using this baby over the last 2 years and I love it. Also, make sure you classify your concentrates into uniform sizes I.E. -30, -50, -100 for fastest processing and best results.
Thanks for your comment, Badbeau!
Thanks #Badbeau for this update! Sounds like I'll be using your ideas along with #callmebe 's video here. Great advice shared! Thanks Much! Now to buy my Blue Bowl to go with my Gold Cube.
Great video! Can you tell me a little info behind the black sand you put into the bowl? How was it mined and what processes had the black sand and gold gone through to get to this point of being ready to blue bowl it? Jaw crushing or ran through impact grinder? Classifying? how much? Sluicing or Gold Cubing? Thanks in advance! :)
Hello WarbirdPR! I classify at 100 mesh for the blue bowl, which is what you see here. Your optimal performance will always be with concentrates that are of a similar size. The bowl will then sort them out via weight. Best to deposit in the bowl too little sands (there is no such thing, actually) rather than too much. So two or three spoonfuls of concentrate would be ideal. More than that invites gold getting carried away with the blank sand, as it might not have a chance to settle. If you are in doubt, pan your waste and if there is gold, simply reprocess with your next run. No big deal.
This example used material from the S. Stillaguamish River, Robe Canyon area (see my videos--I am quite specific in them). The gold is glacial, so it is usually quite flat. The black sands are not so glacial--and are of mixed shape, so the gold has a tenancy to ride over their top. So, less is more. Here it is best to process with a small mesh (100) and a modest amount of material (two spoon full).
The gold was all recovered using a Royal sluice system (see my review).
I hope that answers your questions. As far as the blue bowl, it will produce excellent results, provided that you keep in mind the first paragraph. WPR, ask more questions if you need! And, good luck in your gold getting!!
@callmeBe - or - anyone that can answer this ! -- Will the blue bowl remove beach
type sand or Only black sand? Where I live and prospect, it is always
sand left at the end of my pans. I am aware I am looking for flour gold,
which is why I want to invest in the Blue Bowl, but no one has been
able to give me an answer if it will remove beach type sand? I fear I am
losing a lot of fine flour gold in the sand. - Thank you in advance
for any help you can provide!
Hi MitchieR. As long as the size of the materials you put in the bowl is homogeneous, it will do a good job of separation for you. So, yes, if the particles of sand are relatively the same size as your black dirt, it will work. And, you should see that sand leave the blue bowl first (migrate towards the center hole) as all of the placed material begins to stratify. Now why you are getting that sand in your concentrates is a whole new question. All things being equal, you may consider a gold cube (they are expensive) to process your beach sands more efficiently. Good luck!
ALWAYS plug your ground in last...REMOVE it first!
Avoid sparks that way....
Hi, how long does thebattery last before you have to buy a new one. Thanks in advance?
Hello Doug. Well, it depends upon how much you use it. But a deep cell will generally last about 5 years with modest use ( maybe 15 hours of use a month). 4 years if you use it twice as much. They are a good value, Doug.
@@callmeBe oh ok thanks
I have an old car battery hooked to a trickle charger, 1 or 2 amps, and I plug it when I run the bowl and unplug it when done, it's been going for years- think the low amperage of the pump it just runs off the charger, but the battery does hold a charge, not for a car, but has enough to run the pump overnight! I forgot once.
03:50 ant comes out of gap in floor, does a recce, realises there is a camera running and heads for cover.
Ha, how fun. No gold for him!
Hi, help me guyz i need this blue bowl or equipment where can i buy it!!! Plz help
I sold all my stuff and retired, Ebay is probably the best place. Make sure when you,ale purchase you also buy the shims. that way your blue bowl sits flat. It will not work if it is not dialed in flat. The tubing you can get cheaply from any hardware store, and the water pump you can easily buy used on ebay.
@@callmeBe I use a 1 or 2-amp trickle charger with an old car battery that won't hold a charge for a car but powers the pump fine, just plug it in to use, and unplug when done. Any auto parts store has them and runs $20- $25.
Good thought
In my area gold is fine and flat. (0.1 - 2mm) Many times tried to wash it through the blue bowl, but nothing works, even at minimum water speed the gold is washed away with the sand. Maybe the Miller table can help, it seems to hold flat gold better.
Have you tired cleaning your bowl with dishwashing soap? If there is an oil film on the gold--it will float away. When your machine comes from the manufacturer, oiled metal parts are used to make it, and so residual oil is usually found in the bowl. Clean your bucket below also, as any oil on it will transfer into your bowl. Also, put just a few drops of dishwashing soap in your water when you begin--every time. It acts as a surfactant, making sure that the water touches all surfaces of the gold. I never had your problem with the blue bowl, and used it on flat glacial gold. So, it can work. Remember, when you pan your gold you do not use the river pan technique. THere is a special technique you need to use, or gold will float out of your pan. Let me know if you continue to have issues . . .
@@callmeBe Thanks for answer! :) Yes, I washed it very well according to the instructions, there should be no oil inside. The gold is mine from the adventure scluice, then I put it in the blue bowl and try to clean, but at any speed, it all washes out. I even added the Dream Mate inside hoping it would help, but the effect is almost the same as without it. And there is a lot of gold in my spot, I once extracted 5 grams of gold from 2 kilograms of sand just by hand, but it is very long and tedious. I am trying to find a technology to clean my sand with fine gold, but so far I can't think of anything...
@@teolegrande304 It is going to be very difficult. Don't do mercury! I would still put a surfactant in your bowl, to insure total surface contact with water. Because the gold is so very fine, then the only other thing it could be, because the bowl is an absolute study in physics, and it can not fail if everything is right, is your mesh is not fine enough. You need the very smallest mesh you can find. If you are losing gold, the iron weighs more, or at least as much, and so you need to decrease the difference in weight. Therefor, no matter how fine your mesh is, you need something smaller and finer. I would not search gold mining stores. I would search industrial supply stores. Try Amazon with HYHMJ-Industrial Metal Mesh 6 Mesh - 20 Mesh - 80 Mesh. I will bet your mesh is not 80 mesh fine . . .
@@callmeBe I have different classifiers and 80 mash too. I'm always sorting all the material. I get two kinds of sand with gold in it. The first is a little bigger, with 0.5-2 mm gold, and the second material contains all the gold less than 0.5 mm. The blue bowl flushes both. I think my material has a lot of sand in it and that's why the blue bowl doesn't work as it should. But I have a very hard time flushing sand by hand, a lot gets lost :) I will experiment, because it's a shame, so much gold nearby, but I can't get it :) Thanks for the tips!
@@teolegrande304 I understand, but that is what I was saying before. You don't pan your kind of gold like river gold. You need a specific pan, a surfactant, and a different technique--where you swirl very little if any, and the process is technique sensitive. Let me get you a link. Yea, the less material you have to seperate, the better recovery you will have. You want to follow Keith from UA-cam's "Hard Rock University." He is a great guy, has a tremendous amount of experience, and is an excellent teacher (also was a friend--old geezers stick together--but I have not talked with him in years). Don't expect classy videos. I see where here is using 300-500 mesh. 80 is way too big. (I don't have that much experience with microgold). watch this: ua-cam.com/video/IPEUJQi7-Lc/v-deo.html If you write him, he always answers quickly with reasonable content. But I think your problems is basic: probably mesh related, and you need to always use a surfactant. (which he covers in this film).
negative should be connected last, not first.
Diesel Ramcharger Yes, with assembly connect + first. When disconnecting the - is removed first to prevent an arc. (Just like a car battery). Thanks for your correction!
Obviously not an issue in this scenario without a negative grounded structure to short the positive on. Good practice is all
How much price total kit
Can the pump be damaged by particles? Does it need a filter or is it designed to work without one?
All H20 pumps have a filter built in (even the hand pumps). If you unscrew the bottom you can clean them out with your fingers. You can purchase a fine mesh screen that fits over the top where the intake air is. It would be kind of like a hair net--and that would useful when using something like a highbanker when your pump is placed directly in a stream, but here you won't need it. In fact, you'll probably never need to clean your pump for the blue bowl. It will be the larger rocks, leaves, and out and out mud that will clog it up. So, no worries. Glad you have enough gold to consider this system!
No gold here in NYC, except for jewelry, But I want to go panning in New England someday. I am studying up on it. What I figure is that I need to concentrate on the fine, fine gold that is not obvious to the eye. And that means that the right equipment is crucial. I want nothing to do with mercury, if I can help it. I want to experiment with my own clean up equipment. What I know about New England gold panning is that you are limited as to what methods you can use on state land. If I can earn 100-200 dollars a day, I'll be content. I might be asking a lot. What do you think? Is 200 bucks a day realistic?
I saw a program about a dude who was cleaning NYC gold off sidewalks near a section where there was a heavy concentration of jewelry stores that did fabrication, etc. I guess the dust was coming off the workers as they exited the stores. He was also finding small gem stones.
I don't know anything about mining in New England. I have seen a little placer gold found in Vermont. That is as much as I know. The GPAA (Gold Prospector's Association of America) would be the best source for your information. For every state they do a handbook of the claims they own, tell you exactly where they are, and also review them (tell you a little about how much people report finding. Their information is reliable, and it is a good organization. It use to be about $75.00 a year to join.
I think you're going to have to go some to average $100.00 a day. I'll never say "no" to hopeful thinking, but many of us are not that lucky. I'll do better than that with my mine, but it's hardrock and out west where gold (and silver) is far more plentiful. Check out the GPAA and you will get your most reliable info.
FYI, if you're counting on separating microscopic gold, forget it. It will never be worth your time as a small prospector. If you can't see it in your black sands, it ain't worth the time/effort to recover it . . . Sorry I cannot be more hopeful about that, but I am truthful!
Good luck! B.
callmeBe I know about GPAA, but it is going to be a long time before I can get out of NYC to live anywhere where I can pan or sluice for gold. I know that I'll have to run a lot of dirt to get a little gold. I think it is going to be more of a hobby than a nice payday. I'll be in my late 60s or early 70s before I can get out of NYC. But getting some gold in on my bucket list. I'm going to do it.
Having a bucket list is very important. So may some of those buckets be filled with paydirt! Meanwhile, a hobby would be a more realistic way of thinking things through. Good luck, and keep those warm thoughts!
Can anyone tell me what amperage the 12V water pump is?
Thanks,
Brian, when you order a kit you usually get a choice as to the size of the Johnson pump. A 500 gph pump (about $23.00 cost, and is an ok size) draws 2 amps, a 750 gph pump draws 2.6 amps (standard on most of the kits). Johnson also makes a 1000 gph pump which draws 4.5 amps, but you do not need such a volume of water for this application. Thanks for the question!
Is the 750 gph hour pump really necessary and would a 264 gph electric pump work just as well(hubby will only let me use the 264 gph pump and not the one that came with the blue bowl)
@@KristyN12012 I have a 750 gph bilge pump and I have to dial it back, how much, I don't know. Why won't hubby let you use the one that came with, is he setting you up to fail, or do you have bad luck with pumps? The pump he recommends I think might be a little on the low side, but if you can push water over the rim it will work fine, good luck.
blue bowl have mistaike in construction i fixed that mistaike and no mo problems
Greetings, and what mistake was that? Thanks for sharing . . .
Gold - How to get it! I like the changes you made . Just watched your videos
i am working with 50 mesh material, the blue bowl no matter how slow i have the water circulation in the bowl, will take both the (few) gold pieces as well as the non gold material. i am trying to figure a way to stop this from happening, everything goes into the bowl at the bottom, but i may as well have just put a spoonful of material directly into the bottom bowl.
Hello. 50 mesh is about as large a material as the bowl can take, so you should be fine there. It should process it easily. I would bet that your bowl is not exactly flat to the floor. Even when you are not even by a tiny bit, you will loose gold. There is a inexpensive kit that is independent from the basic bowl which helps you to insure everything is flat. Of course, check with a level at several directions also. I hope that is your problem. It is easy to solve. Oh, also, place just a titch of wetting solution in your bowl also. Any dish washing soap will do. Just a titch! (Make sure you have also washed your bowl with soap, as it does come with a small coating of oil).
@@callmeBe well my BB is as level as i can make it, i have a large and a small level to double check each other, the small one i set on the inner cone, the large one i set on the bowl itself, just to make sure, so all good on the level part. i use jetdry in my BB, my problem is not floaters, the non gold material is basically the same size as the few pieces of gold i fine, i run the water speed slow but i still see the water flow move gold and same size non gold material around and slowly up the cone. i run my BB on top of a nugget bucket, so i still catch it all at the bottom, but its just extra work for me when BB pulls the gold and the rocks up out and down. i have had my BB for over a year now trying to get a positive action from my BB, so the new oil coating is long gone.
If it is as you say Zemetrius, then the process must work. Not should work. Must. It runs off of simple physics, which you have provided. This is not a demeaning question, but are you absolutely sure that is gold in your finds?
@@callmeBe just to be sure it worked, i added some that i had found just to make sure it would work. so the test batch did have some in there, but it took what i put in there with the non gold material and sent it to the bowl in bottom of the nugget bucket.
And you are sure what you have is gold?? Again, if everything is as you say, the system works perfectly off of physics. You simply control all the variables (speed of water, same sized mesh, bowl flat to the floor, no oil introduced, etc) and the system can't help but work. There are no exceptions. I can only suggest calling either the manufacturer, or the dealer from whom you bought the bowl from. Or further testing, say, with gold from a known source (buy some mesh gold on eBay--I see several that sell 50 mesh, but you will need to talk them down to a very small amount). Then, when you have satisfactory results, let us know here on this channel . . .
Think a lot of fine gold will go down that spout aswell ,not bullet proof 🤔
Well, not a lot, but certainly some. It is worth putting your black sand through again, especially at a lowered flow rate.
Are your "black sand" always black? Where i dig my gold there are lots of real heavy blonde sand. I met a guy in the same river, and he complained that he always forgot how hard the sand was to pan in that specific river from one trip to the next. But more or less all videos on youtube display real black sand and bright gold?
Greetings Lasse! Black sand is always just that--black, and will be magnetic, as it is composed mostly of iron products such as magnetite (Fe3O4) and hematite (Fe203). The only time you will see iron products as another color (red) is if they have oxidized (rusted). But the latter is just in load mining--not placer.
When gold combines with other metals (copper or sulfur and iron) it can loose some of its characteristic color and shine, as in various forms of chalcopyrite. But placer gold will always present in a way that when you see it, you will know immediately what it is.
So sorry Lasse, I have no idea about your heavy blonde sand. I will write though, that it is not an iron product. Are you sure gold is associated with it?
Thank you for replying. Yes I get gold out of it. There are a tiny bit of magnetic black sand present, but very little compared to other places. There is also a goldmine blasting from solid ore further up the river, and I know gold from pyrite. The consentrate pans out fairly, but the blonde stuff seems to have density close to the black sand. Didn't know of anything else before I met this guy claming the gold from that river was far worse to pan than from other rivers. Thought gold always was that hard to recover ;)
Lasse
"Gold from pyrite." Maybe the blond material is various sulfides--mostly from that pyrite, which can be quite heavy and will not show much iron (the iron is still incorporated into it, but will not show black). And, the gold you are finding may not be very pure, so it will be a more dull color (especially if it has a lot of copper in it). That is the case in some of the placers around here in Western Nevada.
I have come across blonde same every once in a Blue Moon or so and that is exactly what it is, blonde sand. Other than the color, it pans out like black too, but other than not being rich in values I moved on, I couldn't give you any ideas of what it is. It does exist and good luck!
How much is a kit and where do u get one from
Amy, any mining supply will carry them--look online under "Blue Bowl, gold." The full kit would include the bowl, 3 plastic leg levelers (make sure you get these), 750 gallon per hour 12 volt pump, several feet of 3/4 inch flex hose, pair of battery clips, and instructions, (you will not find any that include straining mesh--a super cheap alternative is using a metal tea strainer). With all of the above a kit will sell around $150 to include shipping. Amy, note you will also need a bucket over which to set the bowl, and an energy source for your pump. (Usually that is a deep cell ((also called cycle)) battery (can get at any hardware store), and you will need a recharger for the battery). All told, about $200.00.
Anyone here used this to recover gold from quartz flower/powder?
Well, other than purity, gold is basically gold. So as long as it is in a mesh form, it will recover using this system. The limiting factor will always be that you finely mesh ALL your material. If you screw stuff up--run the water too fast, don't properly mesh, than you can always process again. Nothing is ever lost until you throw it away. One thing to consider, if your finds include micro gold, this system would probably not fully work, because the gold will be lighter than your sands--as your sands have relative thickness, whereas the gold would not--yet both having the same relative size.
There's alot of gold floating
Not in my pans, Cody. But when that happens there is oil in the pan and you just need to clean stuff out with a surfactant (dishwashing soap works fine). This is especially true with gold that is particularly flat and heavily worn.
This sounds scripted :P
Scott, some was, some not. I hope you learned from the video and have enough gold to need a bowl!