Love the video ❤ 1. Do not cut bolts! Get the right size and use shims for the time being. Also, 2. Of course you need to use carbon paste on your seat post. It’s not optional. 3. Internal routing through handlebars is always a PITA 4. Shimano wheels are so outdated, it’s a joke. Get a good Chinese wheels like CRW or Light Carbon
Don’t cut the brake bolts! Shimano makes bolts for different chainstay thicknesses. It used to be more varied when flat mount was new, but pretty much everyone has settled on 30mm chainstays so that’s the bolt included by default when you buy brakes now. Looks like the Tavelo’s chainstays are 25mm so I guess they didn’t get the memo.
@@NorCalCycling yeah, I feel like they should provide spacers, that would be a much better solution and a big help. I had this same issue building an ICAN frame but I got lucky digging through my random bike parts and found standoffs that just happened to be the perfect size.
It's really not a big deal. Shimano puts redundant locks on brake calipers just to be 100% sure they won't fall off in any circumstances if they're correctly installed, so they couldn't be sued if it happens. Realistically, you're going to notice your caliper is loose immediately, because the brake will be rubbing a lot.
If you were using a 160mm rotor (and I assume your groupset came with a 160 rotor), you would use a shimano adapter and the bolts would be the perfect size for the frame. I also had these issues when I was building up my elves frame with a 140 rear rotor was annoyed by it. It really is just one of those bike industry things, where there is a million different combinations and once you know that there is a possible incompatibility there, you learn to be prepared for it. Would actually be surprised if you got these spacers when buying a specialized or scott frameset.
Love the video! Great color. 1. Always use carbon paste. Especially if there isn’t any texture on the clamp or seat post. 2. Never cut the bolts. Shimano and other brands offer different lengths for different bikes. 3. Routing thru the bars and frame can be easy with the right tools and picks etc. 4. There are different D shape compression plugs that could’ve been bought. 5. Kudos on the 5mm stem cap suggestion thing. Very safe for sure
Wild how we went from a a non-proprietary standard that worked out of the box - the 27.2 seatpost, to being ‘okay’ with a slipping seatpost just to save what, 3-4 watts?
Nice to see the Peak Torque hat tip in there. That seat post clamp design is terrible across brands. Internal cable routing is Dante's 9th level of Hell.
I guess that depends on the bike. I changed the groupset on my Cannondale and everything just ran through. I then bought a Vitus ZX1 frameset on impulse, and it was the same way. The brake hoses ran easily through the Vision Metron bars. I was expecting the worst after watching videos of people building up Chinese frames.
Great video as it relates to pre-built (Canyon) vs. building your own up. I bought a Canyon 6-7 months ago. I ordered a size large. The cranks (said) it comes with 175's. I, like you ride 165's. It actually came with 172.5's. The bike is Red AXS. The Red AXS 165mm cranks were 425.00. So I had to change them out myself. Love the bike.
I see this as one of the major flaws of the bike industry. Expecting people to pay a ton of money for something that doesn’t fit. Would you buy a pair of pants for $50 that were 2 sizes too small? I have bought bikes in the past and the first thing I did when I got home was disassemble 1/2 the bike and start replacing parts. There are a couple of companies that have gotten the memo and are offering custom build options, like Factor and I think Orbea. If Canyon gets it figured out, they will steam roll a bunch of the established companies like Specialized.
@@MichaelWilliams-iv6dj 100% agree. If Canyon and others make a small change to their business model, the days of 14,000 S-works bikes are over. My last road bike was an S-Works. When I started shopping to replace it, they were 5-6,000 higher than Canyon, same group, better wheels, (arguably) and only 7 kilos.
@@RumpStumper this. bet most of the 'problems' with internal wedge clamps are the fools who don't take all the necessary steps to set the system up the way it should be.
@@seanmccuen6970nah giant have a problem. Mine has carbon paste everywhere and grease on/in the wedges and still creaks. The post in this vid looks like a much better fit. If had to put electrical tape around the post just underneath the wedge to take up the slack.
@ 100% because most of them just ride bikes, they don’t try to understand the technical side of the stuff they’re riding. They think carbon paste everywhere solve problems, no, it can create them when applied on the wrong parts. The wedge is the most unseen part, it doesn’t get the attention it needs. Remove all of the carbon paste from the wedge. Apply grease on the gliding area of the wedge Only apply carbon paste on the surface of the wedge that touches the seatpost Be careful with applying carbon paste on the seatpost that it’s not to much to contaminate the greased wedge area. And voila. No creaking, no slipping. And last but not least. After a few miles/kilometers. Retighten the seatpost bolt! As soon as you ride everything gets seated properly and carbon paste is pushed away so the applied Torque gets lowered. Just retighten the post and everything should be fine forever.
I wonder how many bikes would fall within the margin of error give the same position and power? Does an aerobike/modern bike even matter in real-world conditions? I'd love to see how a early 2010s bike that you could pick up for cheap and see how well that performs given the same power, tires/wheels and body position.
I have the same wedge on my Cervelo and it's a ridiculous design. Despite using proper torque and carbon paste, mine kept slipping until the wedge wore off a layer of carbon on the seat post. I'm now waiting for a new post under warranty. The aero gains of skinny seat posts aren't worth the hassle in my opinion. My next bike will have a good old-fashioned round post with a clamp that actually holds it in place.
not jeff going out of his way to do something just for us awwww. but seriously its super cool of you. i've already heard from jessie, pt and patty but would love to hear your take
Cable routing through holes in handlebars is DUMB. The standard should be having cable grooves in the bottom of the handlebar (which some bars have), then running the cables along the bottom side of the stem, and into the spacers in front of the steer tube. (which a number of bikes do have, the SL7 probably being the most common). This way you have the cables hidden from view and get the aesthetic and aero improvements, but it's FAR easier to set up, and you can easily change handlebar or stem, and you could of course use one-piece bar-stem units,
So far, I've only seen recessed external routing on the Bontrager Aeolus RSL and Black Inc. Integrated Barstem. As long as they're hidden from the wind, it should be good enough. I once swapped my customer's third-generation Venge's stem to a shorter one, took me only minutes to swap, about as fast as a generic two-piece cockpit's stem. I like how Specialized learnt this lesson from their Venge ViAS.
@@sbccbc7471 Yeah. I use the PRO PLT Ergo handlebar, which has good grooves and no holes (And is VERY comfortable). There is also the Zipp SL80 which appears to have even better ergonomics as long as the fixed hood position works for the user. But those are expensive)
I just got my Tavelo back from the bike-shop where they built it up for me, did not wanna deal with the hassle myself. It looks sick and so far I like how it feels. The mechanic at the shop told me most things were fine about the building-up process, they had the same issue with the bolts though but replaced them with shorter ones from shimano. No issue with the bottom bracket being undersized or uneven, but I do have a shimano standard pressfit BB86 so it might have gone unnoticed. As for me I cracked my old frame in a crash so I could just swap over the old grupset and wheels to a new frame. This frame is less than half the price of name-brand frames with similar specs! Looking forward to ride it more in summer as it's 0-2 degrees and raining in Sweden now...
I don’t think the cable routing is really a problem, I think it’s just a skill level. Anything you do every once in a while is difficult, but if you do it more and more over and over again. Then it’s not really a con. But I understand in your situation it was more difficult then you like it to be.
If your caliper bolts are too long you can uses valve nuts as spacers until the correct length arrives, however this has nothing to do with frameset. Shimano and Sram specify how much of the bolt should protrude and offer it to buy. I have 3 frames and all use different lengths.
11:30, Exactly and the new white Aeroad CF SLX also looks super sick. Oh and btw handlebars can go down to 35cm if you want, stem change costs 200euro "only", zero issues with seatpost or anything else (did groupset swap on mine, bb is great, brake mounting points properly faced, all good stuff) I just don't get it, why would anyone buy the Tavelo. Not even talking about resale price on Tavelo is going to be pretty bad.
@@RylHango Yea I bet getting fitted really well and getting custom bike based on that is the best way to go. But that's not going to be in this price category I would imagine.
You can just buy the shorter Shimano brake caliper bolts. You can also put in a spacer kit. Both standard Shimano issue if you know what you are looking for.
All makes sense. Only thing not discussed is resale. Some people like to flip their bikes. You change bikes a lot for example but of course you are a youtuber and if not, you would likely flip your bikes less. Frames like Trevelo have no resale. Yes they are cheaper to buy. Name brand bikes cost a lot more as you point out but there will be more...still not great...return on investment. Thanks for all the hard work you put into your videos. Even though a senior and past my racing prime now, I still really enjoy your videos and many tenets still apply like shorter cranks for less hip impingement and more open hip angle, narrower bars for more aero etc. Only thing is, even around your height and build, I can't ride as slammed as you anymore which subtracts my power with more drag. 🙂
D shaped steer tubes break so quickly in a crash. It is nice for aligning your wheel with the handlebars, but there is no give when the wheel wants to go one way the the handlebars the other way.
I've never seen a cockpit or stem with a D-shaped hole, so that's not an issue. Some manufacturers have a piece of hardware to take up the rest of the space for a cockpit to clamp onto the steerer tube as a round structure, evenly distributing clamping force.
For switching cables once you've done it once you can get these little pieces with a threaded screw on both sides, screw into both old and new cables pull the new one through and then trim the bit that had the threads in. I have cable silencers in my mtb and switching cables is a nightmare because they block up the holes and get pulled into the stays.
I built the same frameset a month ago. Got the same problem with the caliper bolts:D I don't understand the frustration with the handlebar routing. I routed the cable from the routing kit from the opposite side first, then attached the hydraulic hose with the screw tip and pulled it through. It came through quite easily. The only problem I had was the undersized BB. What was your experience with the BB installation? Which ones do you use? When using the plastic dura ace BB from Shimano the drag was considerable. I ended up using the undersized threaded BB that came with the frame. Eventually going to make this hole a little bigger...
With the compression plug installed, a 5mm spacer, and top cap, the bolt of the top cap should be sufficiently long to preload the headset bearings. You still need the steerer to be cut a few mm below the 5mm spacer in order to put preload.
Did your 5k cost include a wheelset? Whered you get ultegra di2 for $1400? What aluminum top cover did your teammate use on the Solist to fix the ever loosening headset issue?
My OEM frame says 10nm on the seat post. Same design. 5-6 is torque on stems, on seat posts it's always more. And using carbon paste is step one of installing a seat post. The last resort is shimming with random crap like a piece of aluminum soda can, tape and so on.
Even before you got to the "problems" being forced to cut the brake bolts was a deal breaker for me. Yikes. I wouldn't trust this bike on a group ride nevermind racing it in crits. Good luck!!
On routing brake hoses through the handlebar to the levers, the holes on my Coefficient RR handlebar were too small as I added Di2 wires from the levers, as well as wired satellite shifter buttons. To resolve the issue, I rerouted the brake hoses in the opposite direction (from levers through the handlebar to the calipers). I find that to be much easier.
Cutting the stem below is fine. That 5mm above to clamp is incorrect. Below the cap you have the compression plug...and usually a top which is super strong. You are not clamping hollow carbon tube.
Love the look of the frameset. However my Issues with that frameset are: D-shaped Steerer non threaded BB (BB86). Seems to me that modern bikes should not have these issues.
Bb86 shouldn’t be a problem if made well. Quite literally one of the best standards out there again if made well D shape steerer not a problem really but again needs to made well. Bolts some plastic standoffs would have solved the problem, this why sram still sells different lengths of bolts
@@gaza4543The only con with BB86 is it doesn't pair well with cranksets that have a spindle larger than 25 mm due to the 41 mm bore. Since I don't need to ride with cranksets with girthier spindles, it's not an issue for me.
Jeff, I really enjoy your videos; Iv'e learned so much. I see your riding 38cm handlebars. Just curious, what length did you start with when you began racing, and are the 38's comfortable, or do you just deal with for aero gains?
They're quite good and price-to-spec ratio is pretty good too. If anybody asks me what inexpensive carbon bike they can buy, I point them to Polygon. At least I know their bikes should be safe from a QC standpoint.
The dislikes were a total shill copout,they were all to do with the build and installation parts. There was no dislikes regards riding the bloomin thing or frame/fork quality.
I bought a specialized SL7 sport for 3K and mechanical shimano 105. I dealt with literally none of these issues and it's been perfect. Maybe not the best value for money but I literally haven't had to do anything to it and it took all of like 6 minutes to put together. As panda podium said in an interview, Chinese brands aren't ready to come to America yet because of their quality control and little things like this without Western oversight. Still pretty crazy deal and getting everything custom is solid.
1.) The frame, post, handlebars are all coming from a factory in China WITHOUT being marked up by a Western brand first. 2.) Having the bike built for you is DEFINITELY worth money. So, if you can do it yourself, you deserve to save something.
Right but they aren’t the standard bolts that come with a kit and tavelo doesn’t provide spacers so you can cut the stock ones and use your bike until the correct sized ones get ordered and shipped
@@NorCalCycling You're telling me no local shop stocks all the different length shimano bolts? I live in BFE and my local shop has all of them in the back for all the bike builds they do. This is ignorant at best and malicious at worst.
@@appetit2619 riding Trek Madone sl6 2019 model. Pretty aero just..... I just wanted to know if the stretches will improve aero or I shouldn't bother about it.
Absolutely loved my tavelo aero. Bike was a rocket ship. Had it set up one by with ultegra d12 10-25 out back with 54 chainring. Loved it but got parted it out recently
I'd strongly suggest getting another solution for power. Rotor 2inPower isn't as much of a disaster as their InSpider. But it's still trash - far, far worse than Shimano. Also, per portions of your review, and all of PT's ... this is a shitty bike for the money. Tavelo aren't great. Far better chinese options.
You MUST use carbon paste on the seatpost ! Its never a last resort
What about a carbon fiber mustache?
@@superintends bro you can also use it as chamois cream when times are hard
Motorex Carbon Paste is a godsend.
Yeah I thought that was the norm. I'd have used it when I set up the bike, before even riding it (unless a Tavelo manual specifically says not to)
Yeah, @NorCalCycling I thought that was standard!!! You’ve been slipping!! Haha
Jesse Coyle is gonna LOVE this
LOL. That was my exact thought.
The froth is real
LMFAO this made me legit laugh. Thank you.
What about Peak Torque...
Love the video ❤
1. Do not cut bolts! Get the right size and use shims for the time being. Also, 2. Of course you need to use carbon paste on your seat post. It’s not optional.
3. Internal routing through handlebars is always a PITA
4. Shimano wheels are so outdated, it’s a joke. Get a good Chinese wheels like CRW or Light Carbon
Don’t cut the brake bolts! Shimano makes bolts for different chainstay thicknesses. It used to be more varied when flat mount was new, but pretty much everyone has settled on 30mm chainstays so that’s the bolt included by default when you buy brakes now. Looks like the Tavelo’s chainstays are 25mm so I guess they didn’t get the memo.
Yep. And they don’t provide spacers 🤦♂️ so you can cut the stock bolts like I did and use your bike while you wait for your shorter bolts to arrive
@@NorCalCycling yeah, I feel like they should provide spacers, that would be a much better solution and a big help. I had this same issue building an ICAN frame but I got lucky digging through my random bike parts and found standoffs that just happened to be the perfect size.
Been running bottle cage bolts on my gravel bike rear caliper for 4 years
It's really not a big deal. Shimano puts redundant locks on brake calipers just to be 100% sure they won't fall off in any circumstances if they're correctly installed, so they couldn't be sued if it happens. Realistically, you're going to notice your caliper is loose immediately, because the brake will be rubbing a lot.
If you were using a 160mm rotor (and I assume your groupset came with a 160 rotor), you would use a shimano adapter and the bolts would be the perfect size for the frame. I also had these issues when I was building up my elves frame with a 140 rear rotor was annoyed by it. It really is just one of those bike industry things, where there is a million different combinations and once you know that there is a possible incompatibility there, you learn to be prepared for it. Would actually be surprised if you got these spacers when buying a specialized or scott frameset.
Caliper bolts for Shimano come in different length (for different width chain stays) - just order right sized bolts.
I had similar issue with my Allez Sprint, but stock bolts that came with group set were too short >_
Love the video! Great color. 1. Always use carbon paste. Especially if there isn’t any texture on the clamp or seat post. 2. Never cut the bolts. Shimano and other brands offer different lengths for different bikes. 3. Routing thru the bars and frame can be easy with the right tools and picks etc. 4. There are different D shape compression plugs that could’ve been bought. 5. Kudos on the 5mm stem cap suggestion thing. Very safe for sure
I would happily pay a shop to route the cables, that process looked like a nightmare. I know I'd end up tearing a cuticle or two
Wild how we went from a a non-proprietary standard that worked out of the box - the 27.2 seatpost, to being ‘okay’ with a slipping seatpost just to save what, 3-4 watts?
Nice to see the Peak Torque hat tip in there.
That seat post clamp design is terrible across brands.
Internal cable routing is Dante's 9th level of Hell.
I guess that depends on the bike. I changed the groupset on my Cannondale and everything just ran through. I then bought a Vitus ZX1 frameset on impulse, and it was the same way. The brake hoses ran easily through the Vision Metron bars. I was expecting the worst after watching videos of people building up Chinese frames.
Great video as it relates to pre-built (Canyon) vs. building your own up. I bought a Canyon 6-7 months ago. I ordered a size large. The cranks (said) it comes with 175's. I, like you ride 165's. It actually came with 172.5's. The bike is Red AXS. The Red AXS 165mm cranks were 425.00. So I had to change them out myself. Love the bike.
I see this as one of the major flaws of the bike industry. Expecting people to pay a ton of money for something that doesn’t fit. Would you buy a pair of pants for $50 that were 2 sizes too small?
I have bought bikes in the past and the first thing I did when I got home was disassemble 1/2 the bike and start replacing parts. There are a couple of companies that have gotten the memo and are offering custom build options, like Factor and I think Orbea. If Canyon gets it figured out, they will steam roll a bunch of the established companies like Specialized.
@@MichaelWilliams-iv6dj 100% agree. If Canyon and others make a small change to their business model, the days of 14,000 S-works bikes are over. My last road bike was an S-Works. When I started shopping to replace it, they were 5-6,000 higher than Canyon, same group, better wheels, (arguably) and only 7 kilos.
Put carbon paste around all of the seatpost that is in the frame contact and you will be ok with 5-5,5Nm
And regular grease on the Wedge gliding surface
Yeah I'm not sure how carbon paste wasn't step 1.
@@RumpStumper this.
bet most of the 'problems' with internal wedge clamps are the fools who don't take all the necessary steps to set the system up the way it should be.
@@seanmccuen6970nah giant have a problem. Mine has carbon paste everywhere and grease on/in the wedges and still creaks. The post in this vid looks like a much better fit. If had to put electrical tape around the post just underneath the wedge to take up the slack.
@ 100% because most of them just ride bikes, they don’t try to understand the technical side of the stuff they’re riding.
They think carbon paste everywhere solve problems, no, it can create them when applied on the wrong parts.
The wedge is the most unseen part, it doesn’t get the attention it needs.
Remove all of the carbon paste from the wedge.
Apply grease on the gliding area of the wedge
Only apply carbon paste on the surface of the wedge that touches the seatpost
Be careful with applying carbon paste on the seatpost that it’s not to much to contaminate the greased wedge area.
And voila.
No creaking, no slipping.
And last but not least.
After a few miles/kilometers.
Retighten the seatpost bolt!
As soon as you ride everything gets seated properly and carbon paste is pushed away so the applied Torque gets lowered.
Just retighten the post and everything should be fine forever.
I wonder how many bikes would fall within the margin of error give the same position and power? Does an aerobike/modern bike even matter in real-world conditions? I'd love to see how a early 2010s bike that you could pick up for cheap and see how well that performs given the same power, tires/wheels and body position.
zero i guess.
I have the same wedge on my Cervelo and it's a ridiculous design. Despite using proper torque and carbon paste, mine kept slipping until the wedge wore off a layer of carbon on the seat post. I'm now waiting for a new post under warranty. The aero gains of skinny seat posts aren't worth the hassle in my opinion. My next bike will have a good old-fashioned round post with a clamp that actually holds it in place.
not jeff going out of his way to do something just for us awwww. but seriously its super cool of you. i've already heard from jessie, pt and patty but would love to hear your take
Cable routing through holes in handlebars is DUMB. The standard should be having cable grooves in the bottom of the handlebar (which some bars have), then running the cables along the bottom side of the stem, and into the spacers in front of the steer tube. (which a number of bikes do have, the SL7 probably being the most common). This way you have the cables hidden from view and get the aesthetic and aero improvements, but it's FAR easier to set up, and you can easily change handlebar or stem, and you could of course use one-piece bar-stem units,
So far, I've only seen recessed external routing on the Bontrager Aeolus RSL and Black Inc. Integrated Barstem. As long as they're hidden from the wind, it should be good enough.
I once swapped my customer's third-generation Venge's stem to a shorter one, took me only minutes to swap, about as fast as a generic two-piece cockpit's stem. I like how Specialized learnt this lesson from their Venge ViAS.
@@sbccbc7471 Yeah. I use the PRO PLT Ergo handlebar, which has good grooves and no holes (And is VERY comfortable). There is also the Zipp SL80 which appears to have even better ergonomics as long as the fixed hood position works for the user. But those are expensive)
I just got my Tavelo back from the bike-shop where they built it up for me, did not wanna deal with the hassle myself. It looks sick and so far I like how it feels. The mechanic at the shop told me most things were fine about the building-up process, they had the same issue with the bolts though but replaced them with shorter ones from shimano. No issue with the bottom bracket being undersized or uneven, but I do have a shimano standard pressfit BB86 so it might have gone unnoticed.
As for me I cracked my old frame in a crash so I could just swap over the old grupset and wheels to a new frame. This frame is less than half the price of name-brand frames with similar specs!
Looking forward to ride it more in summer as it's 0-2 degrees and raining in Sweden now...
I don’t think the cable routing is really a problem, I think it’s just a skill level. Anything you do every once in a while is difficult, but if you do it more and more over and over again. Then it’s not really a con. But I understand in your situation it was more difficult then you like it to be.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
It’s just harder on Chinese frames
If your caliper bolts are too long you can uses valve nuts as spacers until the correct length arrives, however this has nothing to do with frameset. Shimano and Sram specify how much of the bolt should protrude and offer it to buy. I have 3 frames and all use different lengths.
How does it compare to the winspace?
Not in the same league
@@pigupigu Which one is better?
@@JackGreen-sb2qhthe tavelo is far better than the gen 1 t1550, which is an outdated frame from 5 years ago
@@RylHango lmao clueless idiot
@@RylHangothat’s a random statement with zero evidence. Show me the wind tunnel data
11:30, Exactly and the new white Aeroad CF SLX also looks super sick. Oh and btw handlebars can go down to 35cm if you want, stem change costs 200euro "only", zero issues with seatpost or anything else (did groupset swap on mine, bb is great, brake mounting points properly faced, all good stuff) I just don't get it, why would anyone buy the Tavelo. Not even talking about resale price on Tavelo is going to be pretty bad.
The custom spec is far better
@@RylHango Yea I bet getting fitted really well and getting custom bike based on that is the best way to go. But that's not going to be in this price category I would imagine.
Tavelo sales going up in 3...2....1.... Always enjoy some non-sponsored opinions!
I will never understand how this internal cabling trend has caught on with all its fit limitations.
Because of people's obsession with aesthetics.
You can just buy the shorter Shimano brake caliper bolts. You can also put in a spacer kit. Both standard Shimano issue if you know what you are looking for.
All makes sense. Only thing not discussed is resale. Some people like to flip their bikes. You change bikes a lot for example but of course you are a youtuber and if not, you would likely flip your bikes less. Frames like Trevelo have no resale. Yes they are cheaper to buy. Name brand bikes cost a lot more as you point out but there will be more...still not great...return on investment.
Thanks for all the hard work you put into your videos. Even though a senior and past my racing prime now, I still really enjoy your videos and many tenets still apply like shorter cranks for less hip impingement and more open hip angle, narrower bars for more aero etc. Only thing is, even around your height and build, I can't ride as slammed as you anymore which subtracts my power with more drag. 🙂
weird and goofy editing - I like it!
Yeah Jeff's editor did a nice job with this one
Jeff's glow up continues!
Different front and rear rotors? Shimano front SRAM rear? On purpose or it’s what was in the parts bin?
D shaped steer tubes break so quickly in a crash. It is nice for aligning your wheel with the handlebars, but there is no give when the wheel wants to go one way the the handlebars the other way.
I've never seen a cockpit or stem with a D-shaped hole, so that's not an issue. Some manufacturers have a piece of hardware to take up the rest of the space for a cockpit to clamp onto the steerer tube as a round structure, evenly distributing clamping force.
@@sbccbc7471 I've seen more than a dozen. They won't be around much longer though
Nice looking bike.
For switching cables once you've done it once you can get these little pieces with a threaded screw on both sides, screw into both old and new cables pull the new one through and then trim the bit that had the threads in. I have cable silencers in my mtb and switching cables is a nightmare because they block up the holes and get pulled into the stays.
I built the same frameset a month ago. Got the same problem with the caliper bolts:D
I don't understand the frustration with the handlebar routing. I routed the cable from the routing kit from the opposite side first, then attached the hydraulic hose with the screw tip and pulled it through. It came through quite easily.
The only problem I had was the undersized BB. What was your experience with the BB installation? Which ones do you use?
When using the plastic dura ace BB from Shimano the drag was considerable. I ended up using the undersized threaded BB that came with the frame. Eventually going to make this hole a little bigger...
if scary & intimidating was your goal...you nailed it
Great stuff as always 👏
Love the build !
very scientifique comparison test with the Winspace T1550 has to happen ! haha
Routing hydraulic lines and thin Di2 cabling was hard but possible. Routing both mechanical and hydraulic lines would be impossible?
How can you preload the fork with 5 mm steerer on the top?
You put a spacer or multiple spacers on top of the stem, with a total width of more than 5mm. Spacers can go either above or below the stem.
@ so in the end you get a chimney of at least 10 mm
With the compression plug installed, a 5mm spacer, and top cap, the bolt of the top cap should be sufficiently long to preload the headset bearings. You still need the steerer to be cut a few mm below the 5mm spacer in order to put preload.
It sounds like a bloody nightmare.
Very impressive review. Nice to see you are using a Bryton computer.
What crankarm length and chainrings were on the Ultegra crankset, and are you interested in selling them?
Will you be using the No.6 wheels for races or keep the C60s on??
If tavelo switches to a round steerer tube and fixes the qc on the bb shell it’s be a more viable option.
How does this frame feel compared to the T1550?
Is the tavelo arrow is better than the winspace t1550 gen 2 ?
作为一个中国人，我很兴奋看到这一条视频。你作为一名我喜欢了很久的博主，能在你的视频之中看到我身边熟悉的车子我感到十分高兴。我将将这条视频展示给我们这一边的自行车店老板，让他感受一下外国人对这辆车的评价。
同时也希望你能在未来的有一天可以来到中国骑车❤❤❤
How is ur experience with those rotor 2in powermeters? I saw gplama testing them with some Problems
Did your 5k cost include a wheelset?
Whered you get ultegra di2 for $1400?
What aluminum top cover did your teammate use on the Solist to fix the ever loosening headset issue?
Bicycle, the new Pros Closet sponsoring everyone.
can you make a vidoe about winspace t1150 vs the tavelo?
My OEM frame says 10nm on the seat post. Same design. 5-6 is torque on stems, on seat posts it's always more. And using carbon paste is step one of installing a seat post. The last resort is shimming with random crap like a piece of aluminum soda can, tape and so on.
What bars are those ?
You are always supposed to use fiber grip on carbon and aluminum interfaces.
Even before you got to the "problems" being forced to cut the brake bolts was a deal breaker for me. Yikes. I wouldn't trust this bike on a group ride nevermind racing it in crits. Good luck!!
On routing brake hoses through the handlebar to the levers, the holes on my Coefficient RR handlebar were too small as I added Di2 wires from the levers, as well as wired satellite shifter buttons. To resolve the issue, I rerouted the brake hoses in the opposite direction (from levers through the handlebar to the calipers). I find that to be much easier.
Cutting the stem below is fine. That 5mm above to clamp is incorrect. Below the cap you have the compression plug...and usually a top which is super strong. You are not clamping hollow carbon tube.
Would you go for cervelo soloist with known warranty? VS Tavelo? They are smiler in price. ?
11:54 wow you must have really narrow shoulders to ride a 38mm wide handlebar lol :) And here I thought my 38cm handlebars were narrow
Compare it to Will Hardin's new Oak. you might find some very striking similarities.
Same same but different 🤣
”38 mm” handlebars! WELL THAT IS NARROW! 😂
Love the look of the frameset. However my Issues with that frameset are: D-shaped Steerer non threaded BB (BB86). Seems to me that modern bikes should not have these issues.
Bb86 shouldn’t be a problem if made well. Quite literally one of the best standards out there again if made well
D shape steerer not a problem really but again needs to made well. Bolts some plastic standoffs would have solved the problem, this why sram still sells different lengths of bolts
@@gaza4543The only con with BB86 is it doesn't pair well with cranksets that have a spindle larger than 25 mm due to the 41 mm bore. Since I don't need to ride with cranksets with girthier spindles, it's not an issue for me.
Yeah but scott has dura ace thus the price difference right?
Need more vids like this!
Great video thanks!
Jeff, I really enjoy your videos; Iv'e learned so much. I see your riding 38cm handlebars. Just curious, what length did you start with when you began racing, and are the 38's comfortable, or do you just deal with for aero gains?
Where did u buy the groupset?
Wat da brake rotors doing?
Did you buy the bike?
no one who has reviewed it has bought it. it skews the reviews as a free bike is paid advertising
What about the Polygon brand bikes? Those are likely a similar performance for a similar price?
They're quite good and price-to-spec ratio is pretty good too. If anybody asks me what inexpensive carbon bike they can buy, I point them to Polygon. At least I know their bikes should be safe from a QC standpoint.
@ absolutely 👍🏻
The Scott foil is one of the best aero bikes , i would never sell mine for that
buycycle links are blocked for me in Mexico
5-6nm range on a seatpost is super normal
The teambike shape looks a whole lot like a Dogma. That would be interesting.
What's your 2025 team bike - back on the YOLOist?
Ur team bike is a Pinarello? Damn nice
The dislikes were a total shill copout,they were all to do with the build and installation parts. There was no dislikes regards riding the bloomin thing or frame/fork quality.
I bought a specialized SL7 sport for 3K and mechanical shimano 105. I dealt with literally none of these issues and it's been perfect. Maybe not the best value for money but I literally haven't had to do anything to it and it took all of like 6 minutes to put together. As panda podium said in an interview, Chinese brands aren't ready to come to America yet because of their quality control and little things like this without Western oversight. Still pretty crazy deal and getting everything custom is solid.
How can it be $5000 cheaper?
It can't
1.) The frame, post, handlebars are all coming from a factory in China WITHOUT being marked up by a Western brand first. 2.) Having the bike built for you is DEFINITELY worth money. So, if you can do it yourself, you deserve to save something.
@@AdamGross-j6d Ultegra specd Foil RC is $6500 , so this Tavelo costs $1500? Even the dura-ace specd Foil is $9000.
@@ozgurinsan His Foil was specd with dura-ace so if the Tavelo was about $5000 sounds right to me. Maybe not exactly $5000 cheaper but close enough
@ ok than if he put dura ace on tavelo , he must add extra $1500
Bro Shimano literally sells different length brake bolts. It's scary AF that you and Tavelo didn't know that.
Right but they aren’t the standard bolts that come with a kit and tavelo doesn’t provide spacers so you can cut the stock ones and use your bike until the correct sized ones get ordered and shipped
@@NorCalCycling You're telling me no local shop stocks all the different length shimano bolts? I live in BFE and my local shop has all of them in the back for all the bike builds they do. This is ignorant at best and malicious at worst.
Consider pro assembly.
Complains about slipping seatpost and uses carbon paste as LAST resort. What‘s wrong with you?
@Jesse Coyle where you at!?
1:40 165 and STILL the pedal is scratched, MOTO GP knee dragging going on
To be competitive you must ride the limits of your equipment
Scott foil all day
Man, get the winspace, tavelo, quick pro ar:one and the seka spear going so we can see how the big chinese players are going against each other
IMO aesthetically tavelo looks better 🎉
Just buy a new supersixevo for $4500 di2 105 then carbon wheels, same thing less expensive easier to work on & local support.
Please man! Tell me if you do any stretches to improve your position on the bike. If I cut off my excess and I feel low 😮
What bike are you riding? I think maybe you should buy one with higher stack.
@@appetit2619 riding Trek Madone sl6 2019 model. Pretty aero just..... I just wanted to know if the stretches will improve aero or I shouldn't bother about it.
@@Northwindbreeze I think Neil Stanbury over at Road Cycling Academy did a video in that topic. Would highly recommend!
@@appetit2619 I got you thx
38mm bars...you're narrow my guy.
Factor > Tavelo 😅😅
This channel has become disappointing for me, it's just too much about these superbikes
Absolutely loved my tavelo aero. Bike was a rocket ship. Had it set up one by with ultegra d12 10-25 out back with 54 chainring. Loved it but got parted it out recently
How is it 5k cheaper
Frame 1600 not including shipping
1400 groupset
Getting it put together 300 odd
That's 3000
Scott is 10k
Wow.. too much editing 😮 a bit unusual
nice
Totally not Giant Propel
The scott is most deffinetly faster
ads on youtube are getting longer and longer. Oh wait..
also 7.5kg is it a 29 full susp mtb?
welkom to the world of mechanics. its alwase shit to rout cables
The downsides were a bit wishy washy nothingness
I'd strongly suggest getting another solution for power. Rotor 2inPower isn't as much of a disaster as their InSpider. But it's still trash - far, far worse than Shimano.
Also, per portions of your review, and all of PT's ... this is a shitty bike for the money. Tavelo aren't great. Far better chinese options.