One of the clearest - speaking presenters on any didactic video on UA-cam. Very clear and easy to follow step-by-step explanations too. Excellent work!
I know you don’t work in automotive, but I would love to see some H 13 tool steel heat treated between 42 to 44. I’d like to see your feeds and speeds.
Agreed. While EDM and pre-heat treat content are great content when building tools, a lot of us spend most of our time repairing dies and molds. Always looking for tips.
You guys do great videos of some of the most modern, heavy accurate equipment available. You need to do a video for those of us running a clapped out Fadal or a Sharp 2414.
Great video, Travis! Nitronic 60 was the most "unique" material I've worked with personally. It's always a treat to see the team work with materials that the community may not have encountered before. I'm looking forward to future content!
One of the best videos I have ever seen. Also the conclusion that Haynes 188 is one of the materials that makes our world, modern, EXCELENT. Thank you and godspeed.
I've found when working with super alloys is they will tell you what to cut at. If you try and push them you will start breaking things. Low and slow with tons of coolant. The worse thing is when you case harden them.
The most frustrating metal encountered in my aerospace career was pure nickel. Many parts on the order and took an inordinate amount of time and tweaking to complete.
Turning/facing of pure nickle is not difficult. Slow speed and good coolant accomplishes the job with very good surface finish. However, threading on Nickle is difficult. Threads often get damage in first iteration. But with some adjustments, threading is also doable on nickle.
I have had the (mis)fortune of machining many different super alloys over my 40 years in machining. Stellite, molybdenum, rhodium etc became run of the mill. One alloy above all other stood out for me - Nimonic 90. It earned the nickname "Unachievium" Now if you demonstrated machining that, i feel you would have nothing left to prove. Granted, these days there is a far better science behind carbide and ceramics than when i last got a job made from that hell-spawned godforsaken material, but it still remains a material that defeated everyone i worked with. I never hear a machinist mention that material without a huge string of expletives in the same sentence.
Tip for the Titan CNC team: You should take a look at and test the Kyocera cutting inserts. I was able to solve incredible problems with some cutting inserts and special chip breakers (there are many different ones available). Their PV730 Cermet cutting inserts are also incredible in terms of durability.
Think those are very niche tools for specific finishes or holding super tight tolerances and most companies probably don’t want their most expensive and critical parts displayed on the internet.
Those are good for hard alloys but don't fare too well on tough alloys, high nickel alloys will eat a PCD bit for lunch that could do fine machining stellite or carbide. CBN will machine almost anything but gets gummed up badly on aluminum and copper alloys.
This video was super informative and very clear about each step need more like this 👍 maybe do a video on Royalloy want to see how it holds up and what you guys think
Appreciate you and all your skills. However you have the best of the best of everything in that shop. You’re not old enough to have had to do stuff like that years ago with no CAD/CAM or state of the art machines, not to mention carbide inserts. Hell back in the late 60’s everything was negative rake inserts. Insert technology has come a LONG way since then. Not taking anything away from you though. The only thing I noticed was you said you drilled a 2 inch hole. I’m thinking you meant 2 in depth because the diameter was certainly less. The fact that you gave us all that info is aces man, you’re certainly one of the best in the industry. Could have used you years back in my shop for certain. 👍🏼👍🏼
Is it harder than Stellite? I machined valves for huge steam turbines with that stuff.. eats carbide. Best results we found was using a negative rake angle on our carbide. And this was all conventional machining. 👌 love these videos
Softer then stellite but it can work harden ridiculously quickly. Go low and slow and the super alloy family will do what you want, definitely goldilocks not too fast or it will eat your bits for breakfast, not too slow or it will eat them for lunch just right. Stellite can be machined with boron nitride or silicon nitride, but generally is a little left of carbide in hardness. Mostly did stuff that was cased with that like guide rails and such.Grinding is the go to with that stuff to be sure.😮
I remember hearing that the first rocket engine with interpreted cooling channels ( and not braced) was also a super copper alloy ( where it was then up into nickel plating for weeks/month non stop since they had to plate a 1 inch thick nickel layer ) My least fav material is those plastic that have extreme thermal expansion where you can't use cooling on
Plating a 1 inch thick nickel layer sounds extremely time consuming and difficult to say the least. The copper alloy used for rocket engines is usually a mixture of copper nickel and a few percent beryllium. It's unbelievably difficult to work with as the chips don't like to break and are very springy and it likes to work harden very quickly as well.
@@christopherleubner6633 well nasa did do that 1 ince thick plating many many years ago ( cause there wasnt any other way back then. no 3d printing. no cnn and curved drills dont really work that well ) so they had to manually machone the part. make the slots as well. fill them with a condoctive wax and then plate the whole thing in a later of nickel about 1.1 ince and them use that 0.1 ince to hit there tarket as close to perfect as possibly allowed by the laws of nature and technoligy/metherds at the time
Id like to throw out a challenge for yall. We just landed some contract work where we are going to be machining a ton of TZM material with 1/8" endmills for most of the toolpaths. I had never even heard of that material and even our tool reps had no idea what we should use to cut it. We are going to get some blanks in by the end of the week and probably going to be making some cuts at the start of next week but I would be curious to hear what you guys would use to machine it. Our process is going to be a bit of lathe work to face and profile a shallow boss on the back side then put in the mill to machine the grid on the face. This material from what I understand is basically like trying to machine a carbide insert. Super abrasive and going to be a nightmare to do but it opens the door for a TON of work into our shop. Cheers fellas!
@@danielczoller3395 yeah! Vanadium alloyed tool steels can be a bear. Lots of messy oily stinky coolant is all you can do if machining large drop hammer dies.
Heat treated high alloy CPM steel is no joke. Most of the Ellison guys I talk to think 45hrc is hard. I imagine a video on 10v or something like CPM rex 121 at 70hrc is a video that would be..in development for a while
36+ % Cobalt, 22 % Nickel, 22% Chrome, 14.5% Wolfram/Tungsten , throw in a bit of Carbon, Silicium, Lanthan, Boron, Magnesium and a measly 3% of Iron and you´re basically asking : "HOW HARD& BAD TO MACHINE DO YOU WANT YOUR STUFF ? " "YUSSSSSS ! " kekeke
I remember back in the late 80's a guy walked in and to the shop and hands us some parts and a print. The print was just a holding fixture and the parts, 6 in total. They were shaped like a house roof line seen end on. They wanted a fixture to hold the parts down on a huge belt sander. When asked why a belt sander he pulled out a 7th that looked scored up. He said try and machine it and you'll know. We tried and failed as well. He couldn't even tell us what it was or the Rockwell hardness. He said, and I quote, "It's too hard to measure". We were far too worried that the fixture wouldn't hold the parts down and anyone near the machine would be turned to canon fodder so took a pass.
Travis what a brilliant video an articulate concise description of everything involved. What was the reason for tapering the cuts early in the video is it to reduce harmonics or to change the tool load perhaps?
The intention is to prevent notch wear. Notch wear is when you develop a chip on your insert because you enter the cut at the same point every pass. The taper is really just a way to alternate this entry point point slightly and thus increase your tool life. It is usually referred to as a variable depth of cut.
i was just thinking about this issue today at work! we only use ceramic inserts and our heavy roughing cuts are all the same doc which has this issue and shortens the cutter life. but i aint sure if our older lathes are still rigid enough to handle this style programming.
Travis, awesome job with this alloy. I am curious though, what else does super alloys like this get used for besides for high temp turbine and/or rocket engines?
Im seeing all your Highly Professional and Satisfying videos, but wouldnt it be nice to have a Video for People that dont know about any of these things? Maybe about how the Machines work with all axis, the basis of a Programm, how the machines measure the distance and how they are so precise.
I wish more people who are not familiar with machining would watch these videos to see just how nerve-racking this work can be. Also, how much goes into this type of work.
@TITANSofCNC a bit off-topic, but you often talk about mirror finish and such, but i haven't seen you using a Parabolic Performance Cutting mill (aka a barrel mill) for two years. are those out of date now?
@@1320passIt is very heavy! I’d say it’s similar to carbide in weight. The machinability is not great. It reminds me a lot of copper, very gummy and hard on tools. There’s very little information online about Machining it. i’m curious if anyone at Titans has run this stuff before.
Heavy, soft as mild steel but makes stringy chips. Cuts like streight copper. Cut some E beam electrode and target holders from the stuff. Also quite expensive too.
Yes. K-Monel is the most difficult to machine material which I have encountered. However, using special Carbide Inserts of "Walter" make made it possible for me.
When I run larger drills I'll run it static (chuck turning) but with smaller drills it is easier (and safer) to run it as a live tool. The live tool usually allows for easier tool holding and if the tool is off slightly from center you will not snap the drill, as it is like a mill at that point.
I'd like to see what it would take to make a detailed, three-dimensional wax stamp out of titanium. Would be a really good display of skill and tooling to see what kind of delicate work can be done at that small scale.
I got to make some electrical components out of a material called Rhodium. You guys should play with some of that stuff. The part I made was basically a fancy bolt that would carry the current through it. But it was crazy thin walled. I can’t remember the exact dimensions because the thread pitch was a customer custom made pitch, but I remember it was around an M54 in size comparison. And the wall to the outside of the part was only .070 thick. I made the part to like 90% complete in my first vise on the table. Second vise I made a fixture that the part would screw onto so I could deck the top of the bolt without dealing with pressure on the thin walls.
Rhodium is really tough, and it's dirty step cousin rhenium. Turning it was successful 80rpm .004ipr and heating the material to around 1100 degrees fahrenheit before engagement... Also deep cut and sharp relief angles with a dmng
Sounds like the plasma injector for an ion etching machine used for semiconductor processing. Usually it is a platinum rhodium alloy of about 85% platinum and 15% rhodium. The plasma for etch is 98% neon and 2% fluorine. Really dont have a wide choice of metals when using that. 😂.
@@christopherleubner6633 it could have been. Some other parts I made for the same company I know go to microscopes. They kinda deal with a lot of weird odds and ends stuff.
Buy yourself a piece of Molybdenum and see how you get on. Trust me, nothing destroys tools like it. You measure and set a precise size, and two cuts later it's miles over size because the tool has been eaten away.
Potentially stupid question, but I think I have logic behind my thought to it. Would this material thread easier if you hadn’t already drilled the ID out first? It’s a habit for me because it’s how I was trained. But my teacher told me to keep my part as ridged as I could when doing an OD thread to help avoid the deflection that’s causing that taper your seeing. My teacher has been working in the industry for 48 years. And I kind of just took his word for fact. What are your thoughts??
No there is some truth to that and if you are getting say chatter in your threads that may be a good solution. For me I sometimes worry if I cut my threads to size and then remove a bunch of material from the inside my thread may expand. On this particular size thread and hole probably tomato tomatto. In other circumstances though one technique might be preferred over the other.
Travis, drills have no feed per tooth (3:30), .... all specs are Feed/Rev even for insert (U) drills but I assume you'll know because calculations seems okay. Is it a Mastercam thing ? 😉
It is a Mastercam thing. The live tool paths are programmed like they would be in a mill, hence the IPT. If it were an insert drill it would be programmed with the customary lathe IPR.
@@travisjarrett2355 Okay, thanks 👍, ..... btw nice machine, a bit complicated to program when using the full options on double spindles and turrets, ... and robot.😉
I'd be interesting in seeing ya'll run some Phelonic Natural it's a very interesting wood like material. Not sure what u'd make out of it, but if u do be prepared for a mess lol
The machine shop I work for will only buy HSS Tooling and we have to use that tooling on everything from low carbon steel, cold rolled steel, 6065 and higher Aluminum, pre and post heat treated steel, all grades of stainless steel and thompson. They will not buy Kobalt or Carbide tooling which makes my job very difficult at times. Would love to see a video using only HSS tooling for such materials with advice.
Try your hand with 60 HRC. I worked as a miller in a toolroom in maintenance. Having to machine in tolerances of H/h6 in materials as hard as 60 HRC was hell. We'd use air-cooling and carbide tools of course, but things would break so easily...
A history of the super alloys would be interesting, their genesis and impact….. particularly the allied jet engines and how the technology gap impact the German jet program.
So when gripping for OP-2 are you holding on the threads? If not are there instances where you absolutely have to ? What’s a good way to avoid thread damage ?
Machining all Haynes materials today is much easier from 50-40 years ago with all modern CNC and tools. It wasn't easy cutting with tools available back than.
I have a bar of rhenium not a machinist but I would like to drill a eighth in hole thru it. It's a quarter inch thick and I've tried different kinds of drill bits with no luck any suggestions would be appreciated
Awesome Video ! That's high quality machnining education. Great work Travis. My toughest companion, which work a lot these days is Hasteloy 2.4602. Always fun and nasty to machnine ^^ But If you know how, it's just cool:)
Can you machine a ruby rod meant for lazers. That seems like something that would be hard to machine without making it shatter. Try to thread it and hollow it out.
One of the clearest - speaking presenters on any didactic video on UA-cam. Very clear and easy to follow step-by-step explanations too. Excellent work!
He did do a great job.
I know you don’t work in automotive, but I would love to see some H 13 tool steel heat treated between 42 to 44. I’d like to see your feeds and speeds.
What Rockwell is the H 13 in a completely annealed state ,,, ?
Agreed. While EDM and pre-heat treat content are great content when building tools, a lot of us spend most of our time repairing dies and molds. Always looking for tips.
@@rolandtamaccio3285I think it should be around 30-35hrc.
or a mold core made from SPM450V @ HRC58+ hardened all the way through
H13 usually runs between 44-50hrc after heat treat and draw backs if I remember correctly.
You guys do great videos of some of the most modern, heavy accurate equipment available.
You need to do a video for those of us running a clapped out Fadal or a Sharp 2414.
Great video, Travis! Nitronic 60 was the most "unique" material I've worked with personally. It's always a treat to see the team work with materials that the community may not have encountered before. I'm looking forward to future content!
Loved the mention of the ring gage along with the thread mic check or over wires check!
Yeah it's always better, but not all shops have access to a gauge for every thread type, even worse if ur doing custom threads and no gauge exists lol
One of the best videos I have ever seen.
Also the conclusion that Haynes 188 is one of the materials that makes our world, modern, EXCELENT.
Thank you and godspeed.
I've found when working with super alloys is they will tell you what to cut at. If you try and push them you will start breaking things. Low and slow with tons of coolant. The worse thing is when you case harden them.
You are the most complete machinist I have ever seen great video Thank you for sharing that valuable information.
That's one metal I haven't had to machine yet.
The most frustrating metal encountered in my aerospace career was pure nickel. Many parts on the order and took an inordinate amount of time and tweaking to complete.
I imagine probably very gummy and sticky
Interesting. Why was it difficult? Nickel is soft.
@@m4rvinmartian Exactly. Small bore tight tolerance holes that had to be cold worked to final spec.
I think copper is worse
Turning/facing of pure nickle is not difficult. Slow speed and good coolant accomplishes the job with very good surface finish. However, threading on Nickle is difficult. Threads often get damage in first iteration. But with some adjustments, threading is also doable on nickle.
That's some Tough material! Way to go Travis!
Glad to see somebody other then the young talented machnists who pats himself on the back and over hypes everything.
I have had the (mis)fortune of machining many different super alloys over my 40 years in machining. Stellite, molybdenum, rhodium etc became run of the mill.
One alloy above all other stood out for me - Nimonic 90.
It earned the nickname "Unachievium"
Now if you demonstrated machining that, i feel you would have nothing left to prove.
Granted, these days there is a far better science behind carbide and ceramics than when i last got a job made from that hell-spawned godforsaken material, but it still remains a material that defeated everyone i worked with. I never hear a machinist mention that material without a huge string of expletives in the same sentence.
@@grahamkeegan2706 my guess is vectored thrust components on high performance military applications.
@@opendstudio7141 not sure but had to sign NDA's left right and center on the packages.
@@grahamkeegan2706 that’s the way it was during the development the B2 Stealth Bombers also.
Really great video and A+++ on covering proper thread measurement and gauging. So many people take it for granted it seems, even designers!
Tip for the Titan CNC team: You should take a look at and test the Kyocera cutting inserts. I was able to solve incredible problems with some cutting inserts and special chip breakers (there are many different ones available). Their PV730 Cermet cutting inserts are also incredible in terms of durability.
Wanna see Titans use Diamond/cBN tools at crazy speed!
Think those are very niche tools for specific finishes or holding super tight tolerances and most companies probably don’t want their most expensive and critical parts displayed on the internet.
Those are good for hard alloys but don't fare too well on tough alloys, high nickel alloys will eat a PCD bit for lunch that could do fine machining stellite or carbide. CBN will machine almost anything but gets gummed up badly on aluminum and copper alloys.
This video was super informative and very clear about each step need more like this 👍 maybe do a video on Royalloy want to see how it holds up and what you guys think
Appreciate you and all your skills. However you have the best of the best of everything in that shop. You’re not old enough to have had to do stuff like that years ago with no CAD/CAM or state of the art machines, not to mention carbide inserts. Hell back in the late 60’s everything was negative rake inserts. Insert technology has come a LONG way since then. Not taking anything away from you though. The only thing I noticed was you said you drilled a 2 inch hole. I’m thinking you meant 2 in depth because the diameter was certainly less. The fact that you gave us all that info is aces man, you’re certainly one of the best in the industry. Could have used you years back in my shop for certain. 👍🏼👍🏼
Is it harder than Stellite? I machined valves for huge steam turbines with that stuff.. eats carbide. Best results we found was using a negative rake angle on our carbide. And this was all conventional machining. 👌 love these videos
Softer then stellite but it can work harden ridiculously quickly. Go low and slow and the super alloy family will do what you want, definitely goldilocks not too fast or it will eat your bits for breakfast, not too slow or it will eat them for lunch just right. Stellite can be machined with boron nitride or silicon nitride, but generally is a little left of carbide in hardness. Mostly did stuff that was cased with that like guide rails and such.Grinding is the go to with that stuff to be sure.😮
Zirconia sand is quite hard, as you can discover machining sandy castings.
Damn. Even the sound of that rough cut sends shivers down your spine. lol!
Thanks for including the drawing. That was cool to see.
THIS IS THE TYPE OF VIDEO WE LIKE.
I'm nervous having coffee while you machine it !
I remember hearing that the first rocket engine with interpreted cooling channels ( and not braced) was also a super copper alloy ( where it was then up into nickel plating for weeks/month non stop since they had to plate a 1 inch thick nickel layer )
My least fav material is those plastic that have extreme thermal expansion where you can't use cooling on
Plating a 1 inch thick nickel layer sounds extremely time consuming and difficult to say the least. The copper alloy used for rocket engines is usually a mixture of copper nickel and a few percent beryllium. It's unbelievably difficult to work with as the chips don't like to break and are very springy and it likes to work harden very quickly as well.
@@christopherleubner6633 well nasa did do that 1 ince thick plating many many years ago ( cause there wasnt any other way back then. no 3d printing. no cnn and curved drills dont really work that well ) so they had to manually machone the part. make the slots as well. fill them with a condoctive wax and then plate the whole thing in a later of nickel about 1.1 ince and them use that 0.1 ince to hit there tarket as close to perfect as possibly allowed by the laws of nature and technoligy/metherds at the time
I would love to hear how you dance around export compliance with DOD and Commerce. Appears right on the edge....
You should try to machine Waspaloy!
I forge wasp, and it's a nightmare!
I've heard stories, and I'd rather not.
Great info Travis. Well done👍
Id like to throw out a challenge for yall. We just landed some contract work where we are going to be machining a ton of TZM material with 1/8" endmills for most of the toolpaths. I had never even heard of that material and even our tool reps had no idea what we should use to cut it. We are going to get some blanks in by the end of the week and probably going to be making some cuts at the start of next week but I would be curious to hear what you guys would use to machine it. Our process is going to be a bit of lathe work to face and profile a shallow boss on the back side then put in the mill to machine the grid on the face. This material from what I understand is basically like trying to machine a carbide insert. Super abrasive and going to be a nightmare to do but it opens the door for a TON of work into our shop. Cheers fellas!
My most “hardest” material was CPM10V… with 32 years old machine.
@@danielczoller3395 yeah! Vanadium alloyed tool steels can be a bear. Lots of messy oily stinky coolant is all you can do if machining large drop hammer dies.
Heat treated high alloy CPM steel is no joke. Most of the Ellison guys I talk to think 45hrc is hard. I imagine a video on 10v or something like CPM rex 121 at 70hrc is a video that would be..in development for a while
You made it look easy 🤷♂️
These big pumas are so stronge. Have a few at work and they are incredible.
36+ % Cobalt, 22 % Nickel, 22% Chrome, 14.5% Wolfram/Tungsten , throw in a bit of Carbon, Silicium, Lanthan, Boron, Magnesium and a measly 3% of Iron and you´re basically asking :
"HOW HARD& BAD TO MACHINE DO YOU WANT YOUR STUFF ? "
"YUSSSSSS ! "
kekeke
Good info Travis!
A little birdy in the industry told us Eurotech might go thru the door??? Hybrid between Swiss and turn? If true that's exciting!!
Did you get any push back when cutting
I remember back in the late 80's a guy walked in and to the shop and hands us some parts and a print. The print was just a holding fixture and the parts, 6 in total. They were shaped like a house roof line seen end on. They wanted a fixture to hold the parts down on a huge belt sander. When asked why a belt sander he pulled out a 7th that looked scored up. He said try and machine it and you'll know. We tried and failed as well. He couldn't even tell us what it was or the Rockwell hardness. He said, and I quote, "It's too hard to measure". We were far too worried that the fixture wouldn't hold the parts down and anyone near the machine would be turned to canon fodder so took a pass.
Travis what a brilliant video an articulate concise description of everything involved. What was the reason for tapering the cuts early in the video is it to reduce harmonics or to change the tool load perhaps?
The intention is to prevent notch wear. Notch wear is when you develop a chip on your insert because you enter the cut at the same point every pass. The taper is really just a way to alternate this entry point point slightly and thus increase your tool life. It is usually referred to as a variable depth of cut.
i was just thinking about this issue today at work! we only use ceramic inserts and our heavy roughing cuts are all the same doc which has this issue and shortens the cutter life. but i aint sure if our older lathes are still rigid enough to handle this style programming.
Travis, awesome job with this alloy. I am curious though, what else does super alloys like this get used for besides for high temp turbine and/or rocket engines?
It depends on the material but you will also see them used in highly corrosive environments, for example chemical processing plants.
How did you grab the finished thread without damaging it?
Great video Travis!
Im seeing all your Highly Professional and Satisfying videos, but wouldnt it be nice to have a Video for People that dont know about any of these things?
Maybe about how the Machines work with all axis, the basis of a Programm, how the machines measure the distance and how they are so precise.
I wish more people who are not familiar with machining would watch these videos to see just how nerve-racking this work can be. Also, how much goes into this type of work.
@TITANSofCNC a bit off-topic, but you often talk about mirror finish and such, but i haven't seen you using a Parabolic Performance Cutting mill (aka a barrel mill) for two years. are those out of date now?
I would love to see how you guys would machine tantalum ta-10w.
I remember that stuff being really heavy per given size. Cannot remember the machinability. So yeah, bring on some tantalum.
@@1320passIt is very heavy! I’d say it’s similar to carbide in weight. The machinability is not great. It reminds me a lot of copper, very gummy and hard on tools. There’s very little information online about Machining it. i’m curious if anyone at Titans has run this stuff before.
Heavy, soft as mild steel but makes stringy chips. Cuts like streight copper. Cut some E beam electrode and target holders from the stuff. Also quite expensive too.
I would love to see you guys perform machining Ops for Printed parts like H214, Inco 718, ti64. Stuff like that!
How about CuBe on the swiss lathes ?
Try Monel with HSS tools on manual machines. Now that's difficult.
Yes. K-Monel is the most difficult to machine material which I have encountered. However, using special Carbide Inserts of "Walter" make made it possible for me.
I think you made this part for your garden - a nice and shiny connection of a gardenhose to a faucet! 😂
I get to machine some of this on a manual machine. Super fun!
*10:10** It looks like on the ID's there's chipping or at least chatter marks.*
Nice video and a good teacher, thanks.
I know you've done grinding glass before but be interested in seeing if can me machined maybe on the puma or on another machine
Why would you use the live spindle drill over spinning the Chuck? Is it just because of the machine you're using, or is there a reason for it? Thanks
When I run larger drills I'll run it static (chuck turning) but with smaller drills it is easier (and safer) to run it as a live tool. The live tool usually allows for easier tool holding and if the tool is off slightly from center you will not snap the drill, as it is like a mill at that point.
I'd like to see what it would take to make a detailed, three-dimensional wax stamp out of titanium. Would be a really good display of skill and tooling to see what kind of delicate work can be done at that small scale.
I got to make some electrical components out of a material called Rhodium. You guys should play with some of that stuff. The part I made was basically a fancy bolt that would carry the current through it. But it was crazy thin walled. I can’t remember the exact dimensions because the thread pitch was a customer custom made pitch, but I remember it was around an M54 in size comparison. And the wall to the outside of the part was only .070 thick. I made the part to like 90% complete in my first vise on the table. Second vise I made a fixture that the part would screw onto so I could deck the top of the bolt without dealing with pressure on the thin walls.
Rhodium is really tough, and it's dirty step cousin rhenium. Turning it was successful 80rpm .004ipr and heating the material to around 1100 degrees fahrenheit before engagement... Also deep cut and sharp relief angles with a dmng
Sounds like the plasma injector for an ion etching machine used for semiconductor processing. Usually it is a platinum rhodium alloy of about 85% platinum and 15% rhodium. The plasma for etch is 98% neon and 2% fluorine. Really dont have a wide choice of metals when using that. 😂.
@@christopherleubner6633 it could have been. Some other parts I made for the same company I know go to microscopes. They kinda deal with a lot of weird odds and ends stuff.
An excellent presentation.
Those chips certainly would make some nice forge welding patterns ;-D
Buy yourself a piece of Molybdenum and see how you get on. Trust me, nothing destroys tools like it. You measure and set a precise size, and two cuts later it's miles over size because the tool has been eaten away.
Have you guys tried using rainx of something similar to cover the camera cases? Might make it alot easier to see when running coolant
Potentially stupid question, but I think I have logic behind my thought to it. Would this material thread easier if you hadn’t already drilled the ID out first? It’s a habit for me because it’s how I was trained. But my teacher told me to keep my part as ridged as I could when doing an OD thread to help avoid the deflection that’s causing that taper your seeing. My teacher has been working in the industry for 48 years. And I kind of just took his word for fact. What are your thoughts??
No there is some truth to that and if you are getting say chatter in your threads that may be a good solution. For me I sometimes worry if I cut my threads to size and then remove a bunch of material from the inside my thread may expand. On this particular size thread and hole probably tomato tomatto. In other circumstances though one technique might be preferred over the other.
Respekt!!! Thank you for the video!!!
For such small parts, how fast do you usually cap the spindle speed?
MagnaCut knife steel. Hardened at 65hrc. Use small bits 1/8 and 5/32. I'd be interested in how far you can push it
FEED AND SPEED. WHERE DID I HEAR THAT BEFORE? 🤔🤔🤔👍👍👍
Travis, drills have no feed per tooth (3:30), .... all specs are Feed/Rev even for insert (U) drills but I assume you'll know because calculations seems okay.
Is it a Mastercam thing ? 😉
It is a Mastercam thing. The live tool paths are programmed like they would be in a mill, hence the IPT. If it were an insert drill it would be programmed with the customary lathe IPR.
@@travisjarrett2355
Okay, thanks 👍, ..... btw nice machine, a bit complicated to program when using the full options on double spindles and turrets, ... and robot.😉
How do you set go-no-go thread guages?
Whats your coolant concentration running at?
Thoughts on cascadium?
do you guys use holex or ezi or garant tooling ?
Inconel 718, udimet, and Mar m 247 are fun to both turn and grind. These days I just grind inconel and the Mar m. Mar m is 20% tungsten carbide
I'd be interesting in seeing ya'll run some Phelonic Natural it's a very interesting wood like material. Not sure what u'd make out of it, but if u do be prepared for a mess lol
When I heard that high pitched whine from the cut you were making, it reminded me of cutting beryllium.....sounds like your cutting glass on some ops.
Beryllium is awful to machine, I don't envy you.😂
The machine shop I work for will only buy HSS Tooling and we have to use that tooling on everything from low carbon steel, cold rolled steel, 6065 and higher Aluminum, pre and post heat treated steel, all grades of stainless steel and thompson. They will not buy Kobalt or Carbide tooling which makes my job very difficult at times. Would love to see a video using only HSS tooling for such materials with advice.
What? Why? Are they stuck in the fifties?
Yes they are, the owner is 92 years old and still operates this shop as if it were 1950
@@markdebruler5886 Well, HSS development died when WCo inserts were invented, so your options are limited...
Try your hand with 60 HRC. I worked as a miller in a toolroom in maintenance. Having to machine in tolerances of H/h6 in materials as hard as 60 HRC was hell. We'd use air-cooling and carbide tools of course, but things would break so easily...
A history of the super alloys would be interesting, their genesis and impact….. particularly the allied jet engines and how the technology gap impact the German jet program.
Could you make a Video about Machining POM?
How does machining that material compare to something like o-1 or a-2?
Making me feel better about my kovar job rn
A2 tool steel would a joy
So when gripping for OP-2 are you holding on the threads? If not are there instances where you absolutely have to ? What’s a good way to avoid thread damage ?
Invest in a collet chuck. Downsides is you are limited on the diameters you can grip by the sizes of collets you are willing to buy.
How does the material compare to Stellite?
I work with molybdenum. Tough stuff. Would love to see how you do it
Would love to see you machine some isothermally forged and heat treated Rene88DT and ME16.
Is the part in the thumbnail a punch bolt from a deep draw press?
Hastoloy c would be nice to see how you run
Die Arbeitsschritte wurden sehr gut erklärt! Meine Frage dazu. Wie groß ist die Standzeit der Werkzeuge in gefertigten Teilen?
Machining all Haynes materials today is much easier from 50-40 years ago with all modern CNC and tools. It wasn't easy cutting with tools available back than.
Any tips and tricks to putting an M10 X 1.5 thread in 1/4" thick AR500 plate?
I have a bar of rhenium not a machinist but I would like to drill a eighth in hole thru it. It's a quarter inch thick and I've tried different kinds of drill bits with no luck any suggestions would be appreciated
If you want a real challenge try machining some Hardox Extreme. We have made some shear blades out of it and it is brutal to machine.
That stuff has a wicked squealing sound! Insane stuff
Try bronze aluminum, I always enjoyed machining it. It reminded me of gold.
Awesome Video !
That's high quality machnining education. Great work Travis.
My toughest companion, which work a lot these days is Hasteloy 2.4602. Always fun and nasty to machnine ^^
But If you know how, it's just cool:)
N2 is another aerospace super alloy I'd like to see you try out. I work with that and Haynes 188 daily.
How many of these parts can be turned out in one hour?
I like watching people machine stuff to make things
Can you machine a ruby rod meant for lazers. That seems like something that would be hard to machine without making it shatter. Try to thread it and hollow it out.
Inconel! Could y’all make a video about cutting Inconel!
Which alloy? 625 718 are pretty similar but 925 is another step in the pain in the ass direction.
Sincerity is the way of Heaven. The attainment of sincerity is the way of men.
why have the drill rotate instead of the chuck?