How to Polish Golf Clubs Like a Pro
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- Learn how to restore your golf clubs and make them look like new with this step-by-step guide. This tutorial will show you the best methods to polish your clubs and make them shine.
Do this at home! Follow the equipment links below to help support the channel.
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www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
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CHAPTERS:
0:00 Introduction and first look
0:30 Good versus bad scratches
1:47 How to make a cross-hatch pattern
2:09 Which compounds to use
4:05 Let's pick a club!
4:56 Buffing and Polishing
11:11 Finished work and into the bag! - Спорт
This is absolutely amazing. Been looking at getting some 2nd hand AP1’s refinished and didn’t know how but this is next level.
Beautiful!!
I came looking for this, thinking I'd find a bunch of gimmicks, 'super solvents' (that don't work), or endless weeks of full-on elbow grease. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. I love keeping my clubs sharp and crisp (and I've put some $$ into them) - and even a once-a-season touch up with this process would keep them gleaming all the time.
VERY helpful and straightforward.
Great comment! Thank you. Please share with your favorite video with your golf friends!
I live in a pretty golf-heavy area.
First off, wonderful tutorial with clutch reminders on proper use (I.e. alternating direction with each grit). Second, I might actually look into the feasibility of making a few extra bucks a month using this as a side hustle.
Thanks a lot!
Awesome video best explained video on UA-cam. Gonna try this with my old 2004 big Bertha irons.
Absolutely flawless Mr Meehan..... A+
Hi Brad. I took to buying non-plated stainless clubs and being a former toolmaker and metal polisher set to work removing gouges and scratches. I now have three sets of 80s and 90s irons which look near the same as your plated set. It's good to see someone else taking care of their irons. Great video.
Thanks Richard. It's a very rewarding hobby!
They turned out fantastic. Nice video!
Thank you. Your channel is cool.
Just saw the links ! And thanks for sharing your experiences - as a retiree, I’m getting into this as a hobby , will seek your guidance as we go. Based in Sydney.
Thank you. Please reach out with questions!
Makes me sorry I opted for “blacked out” Ping G 710s … very nice and very impressed … very informative!!!
Amazing. What a difference! 😲😲😲
Great video! Very informative!
Thank you. There's a lot more to come so please consider subscribing.
Great video! thanks a lot for sharing! I'm gonna fix mine today ;-)
You're welcome. There are links in the description for equipment ideas if you don't have it.
This is by far the best tutorial on UA-cam on how to polish busted up clubs. It's extremely helpful. Please create a short video on how to install the buffing wheels, what speed to use, where to buy them, safety, etc. I hope to see more videos in the future. Thank you very much, Brad!
Thank you. You got it. I have a few other club restoration videos I recorded, but I'll make other smaller detailed videos for those things you mentioned. I think others would really benefit from that info too. Subscribe!
Thanks for taking time to educate us Brad. Is process same for cleaning, polishing the club face? Also can this process be done by hand without the sander?
🤯 look great!
Subbed. As a small YT Golf Channel I thought this was awesome!
Love it!
Thanks!
Great stuff. Could be a good little home business there
Thank you. Please subscribe!
Love the videos. Does this process of just using the compound remove the nickel & chrome layer? Or make them less durable?
Great video! Just wondering what you do for more of a brushed finish golf club? Such as a Minzuno jpx hot metal
There are few ways I've done it. I'd polish it first, then do the brushed look after. Red or green Scotch Brite pads do a good job, or if you want it more pronounced, then use 400 grit (or more course if you prefer) sand paper. The key is to go in a STRAIGHT line so it looks brushed. Check out my video of the Titleist driver restore where I dressed the face with paper for the brushed look.
The last way is to use a finishing wheel. You can buy smaller, 6 inch wheels on eBay or Amazon. Watch this video at the 1:56 mark: ua-cam.com/video/l1F5Cs5ywNg/v-deo.html
It's just harder to get into all the angles in a straight line. Hope that helps and let me know if you have more questions.
Hi Brad, truly excellent work here! Is there any way to remove those sole scratches caused by hitting off carpet mats at a driving range if power tools like what you have are not an option? If this is possible, which polishing product would work best?
Even a soft scouring pad would scuff it enough to remove it. The key is to use finer and finer grit paper and the shine will come. I learned this from watching a video of a guy polishing an axe with just sand paper.
Nice job
Fantastic! I have a set of clubs I'm gonna sell and wanted to do this to maximize the income and sell a better product. I've got everything I need and will start tomorrow. Thanks for the tutorial.
Bus😂g 56d🎉😊ju😅😅ty😅🎉u6dhd6⁵f y😮ÿ😊kuI😮dcf y😅ny😮f
How did they turn out?
Hey Brad great info in the videos. What wattage is your grinder? I'm thinking of getting one but some say the you need a powerful one
The new one is 1HP! The orange one if the video i believe is only 1/2 HP
This is amazing, could you do a video on rust removal from irons? I have some on mine and don’t know what to do
Are you going to re-plate it after removing the rust?
Wow , great
Hi, what’s the best way to bring the face and grooves back on clubs, thanks
Great content! Quick question, do you have any recommendations for a fan system of sort for the debris that comes off of the polishing wheel when using the bench grinder? My workshop is in my basement and it looks like a bomb went off after each time I get done with a set of clubs 🤣. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is a great question. @McGolf has a vacuum or dust collector in his shop that I'd love to know how it was made. I will reach out.
In the meantime, i HIGHLY recommend you check out that pedestal that my polisher is mounted to. This allows me to bring the whole thing outside and keep my shop (and lungs) clean. It's such a messy job, that I'm still finding BLACK SOOT on everything. I wish I had that pedestal from the beginning:
amzn.to/3PzDlLp
Great video Brad. So I don’t have the room or time to do this. Ever thought about charging to do a set? I’ve got Mizuno JPX 825 set that I’d love to have look like new.
I'm so freaking lazy, Scott. I mean, next-level lazy.
LOL! Brad?…That’s “HONESTLY “ funny!
Well, perhaps this will ‘LOWER’ your next level Laziness, I’m Subscribing! ✅👍
I polished mine. First soaked in soapy water. Then cleaned with brass wire brush. Then polished with black polish. Then polished with flitz paste. Came out brilliant, not quite mirror shine though.
Good deal. Makes you proud to see the hard work pay off.
What’s the name of the wheel used on the grinder? From the video I viewed last night it does appear to be a solid wheel. I’m remembering deburring wheel??
If these specific irons had deeper knicks and scratches, you would have to take it to the belt? Would that mess up the plastin inlay? Would you still be able to replate them? Thanks!
excellent video looking to restore some clubs where do i get the polishing sticks and what ones should i buy new to polishing ........thanks alan
Hi, Alan. Here is the exact set I bought on Amazon:
amzn.to/3hsiBDY
The price was $23 for the kit.
Thanks much appreciated......alan
Thank you for your videos Brad. Can you also do this with Pingi200 irons?
Yes! Same procedure. But I the Pings have more of a matte look so you can dust them with your media gun after you're done polishing to dull it out.
What an amazing video!!!
I want to restore my irons and wedges. My irons are chrome and my wedges are steel with a black coating I’d like to remove, would I carry out the same process onto my irons?
Thanks
Josh
The polishing part is thr same, but you'll need to deal with the chrome, then try the plating method I did. Check out my nickel plating tutorial video and some older bladed irons I've done and you'll see the similarities.
I once polished a black wedge to reveal a chrome plating underneath using the same polishing process as Brad…it still looks good a year and a half later
good lesson thanks. For deeper scratches do you go down the grits of sandpaper first? I have a club that's chewed up a bit more than these
Yes. I start with three finest grit that will get the scratch out and go to finer and finer from there. No need to use a really aggressive grit.
good job
Thanks, Alan
Hi Brad. Trying to fix up a Ben Hogan sand wedge that had some dings around the edges. I used the deburring wheel and a file and got it looking pretty dingless. But using the polishing wheels I can't get an even shine to them. Dull in some places, brighter in others. Could I have removed the chrome in the deburring process?
Yes, you probably went through the chrome and into the nickel. The nickel will have a TINY hint of yellow to it versus the TINY hint of blue in the chrome. The result is now you have some exposed nickel, maybe a bit of exposed steel if you had any nicks that chipped the chrome, and remaining chrome that wasn't removed by the deburring wheel. If you're going to re-plate them, the chrome has to be removed or it won't plate to it AT ALL. If you just want to keep them shiny and not re-plate them, i'd recommend you wipe them regularly with a corrosion inhibitor.
Awesome video. How thick is your denim wheel? Amazon has 1” and 1/2”. For golf clubs, what thickness would you suggest? I don’t want it to be too thin/thick so just interested. Also, as I’ve researched compound grit charts, they seem to be inconsistent where in some cases white is grittier than brown.
Hi, David. Mine are 6 x 1/2. I prefer the smaller width to get into smaller areas around the ferrule/'crotch" areas. I agree on the inconsistency of the compound grit. The kit of compound I bought has a chart with the recommended compound for each type of metal.
Below are links to the exact products I purchased on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079X52ZG5
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H6ZVVXF
And I highly recommend these:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07789NKCV
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4VYKYY
Let me know if these links don't work for you and we can connect offline.
@@BradMeehan you should put this comment in the description! Great video, very informative and solid comparisons.
Hello, in your Amazon list, the bench buffer. Would the hard buffing wheel it comes with work or would you recommend getting a denim wheel like you used in this video?
Thanks!🤙
I'd recommend getting the kit of the various wheels so you have a sisal wheel, a denim, and a loose cotton. Those three will get you through all of the steps to get a mirror finish.
Practicing on an old ram zebra putter. It’s got some pretty deep gouges. I’m not even sure the sisal is going up be enough to get down in there and remove the deeper scrapes? Any suggestions?
I agree. One of the Mizuno has a gouge in the sole. You can't sand it down that much because it changes the club. I'm going to learn how to do simple brazing to fill it with bronze or silver since I'm going to replate over it. I'll film it to see how it goes.
I bought brand new Apex DCB's and the day I was taking them out for the first time I dropped one of the irons in my driveway and the toe hit the cement. It left a small circle of prickly somewhat deep marks. Callaway says they are forged but apparently they are not true forged. Some of the components are forged. Any way I can buff out these deeper marks?
Hi Brad, I’ve watched some of your videos. You do a great job! Just curious, do you actually polish the face of the club on the buffer wheel? If not, what do you do for a technique to remove the scratches? Thanks
On a cast club, I sand them a bit to disguise the large scratches, then polish the face for a min just to make it look even. You can use the little media blaster like in my last video or the Wilson Reflex video for the contrast and texture but I didn't do that part in this video. The faces looked really good.
On forged clubs, I wouldn't sand through the chrome or it will oxidize. Unless you re-plated it like I did with the nickel bath video.
Great video; thank you. Does the process alter the club face at all? Ie, when there was a little overlap with the wheel brushes, did it remove any of the grippy, rougher surface of the face that's supposed to be there?
Polishing is not very aggressive and would take a long time to alter the face. The matte finish will be altered, so you'll have to use the bead blaster again to make that area dull again next to the shiny sides.
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Exactly what I was curious about (the matte finish - I described it poorly).
I am very inexperienced and started doing this last night on my clubs. Wondering how careful I need to be to not remove too much material. I feel like I'm being very gentle but also feel like the club can take a lot more buffing without losing its shape. Wondering about your thoughts. Thanks
It depends on the type of club you're working on. If it's a cast club like the one in the video, you can polish away. But if it's forged steel with a chrome coating then you'd have to be careful not to sand through the plating down to the bare steel or you'll get rust unless you plate it. You're removing what equates to a layer of dust to get the scratches out. So don't worry too much about affecting the shape.
I'm a total dipshit, so don't feel weird about being inexperienced. I was too. I just bought a few junk clubs from the thrift store and practiced until I felt comfortable knowing I wasn't going to ruin anything.
What equipment do I need in order to start refinishing clubs. Thank you
Hi Michael. Check out the links in the description. Thanks.
Hi Brad, sorry for all the questions but you really are a helpful man! How do you create a brushed look finish on the club. What wheels would you reccomend using and what is the process. if you could put out an affiliate link and I will order through that. Thanks a lot
I generally polish it first for a clean, uniform look then you can either use the deburring wheel or Scotch-Brite pads to get the brushed look. The key is to go in the same direction with the scuffing. There's a link in the description to the deburring wheel. I've also been using the Multi-tool bench grinder attachment with the Scotch-Brite belts that look great. Just depends on how much you'll be doing this. The link to that is there as well.
And keep the questions coming so you can be successful at this.
I just bought a set of Ping ISI-K gold dot clubs off eBay that have seen better days. I have a 6” grinder sitting here with buffing wheels already on it and I never thought about using it on these. Well, I know what I will be doing this week now. I just have to figure out what kind of paint to use to restore the white club number markings on the heads that have all worn off over time.
Did you get started? How's it going?
@@BradMeehan I got a few of them buffed up like new but then I started to build a 10x10x20 indoor golf simulator in my living room before I could get them finished. Hoping to get back to finishing those up soon.
Very nice job. Have a question ? Can satin finish be removed from irons and make them look like chrome .
Yes, satin finish just means they weren't polished to a high shine (they stopped after the course materials) or introduced scratches on purpose to give it the "brushed" look. The high gloss is just removing those purposeful scratches with smaller amd smaller scratches that become more reflective as you use more fine compounds.
@@BradMeehan what's the best way to remove it . Can you polish it with the polishing wheels or you have to use polishing sanding belts.
@@manuelgarza969 You wouldn't need the belts (unless you have one) Even hand sanding would do it. It just takes more time. Start with 600 grit and see if that smooths it out, then go to 1000, (1200, 2000, etc) before using the wheels. You want to start with the lights grit and go heavier if needed, or you'll be doing unnecessary sanding to get out scratches that you introduced with heavy sandpaper. Start light, then go to the wheels.
Did you swap stitched wheels between the black, white, and brown compounds?
I didn't, but it's best practice since there may be more coarse compound in the wheel when you're trying to go more fine. There's a tool called a 'rake' that you hold against the wheel and it drags out the compound before you move to the next. I'll make a more detailed video with all those steps if you're interested?
I have a question if you don’t mind , What paint if better to use acrylic or enamel paint? You use enamel but I’ve seen other videos and they use acrylic paint thanks you for you feedback and knowledge
Acrylic is water soluble, so if you're going to play them, I'd use enamel (even nail polish). If it's a wall hanger/art, you can use acrylics.
Hi Brad, when polishing the face of your clubs, do we need to be conscious of sanding too much and damaging the grooves?
Yes. You don't have to remove much when sanding/polishing to make it look uniform, but it IS removing metal slowly. So it will affect the grooves. I'm an average player, so I don't really know the difference. But im sure it affects it. The sand blasting masks a lot of the scratches.
What kind of gloves are you using?
Hi. Is there a limit to the amount of times you can polish something like a club. It sounds from what you've said like you're scratching it to make it shiny, so is there a point where you can't do that anymore (e.g. you've 'ground it down')?
we're removing such a minuscule amount of metal, you'd really have to be doing something aggressive before you change the shape of the club that would affect it. The only thing you'd have to worry about is sanding away them numbers and stampings.
I have a gapr taylor made 2 iron that needs
bringing back to life. However the club is a shiny
black, can I polish onto this and keep the black
finish?
I wouldn't. You'd risk going through that layer and ruining the black. Check out my Taylormade M2 video. I had the same issue.
Nice!
Thanks for watching!
@@BradMeehan Loved every bit of it. Just saw another video of yours! Keep it up. You have encouraged & taught me to go ahead do mine! Thank you!
@@Akziis Give it a try! More videos on the way.
Looking at the extenders. How are the wheels secured to the extender?
The extenders are tapered and threaded so as the wheels spin, they're always "tightening" towards the fatter area of the extender with thr pressure you put on it with the club. Easy on, easy off.
I added links to the extender in the description if you're still looking for them.
Hi, Brad. I have the 2009 Taylormade Burners and they are quite scratched. Is it possible to remove the scratches? I received my order of the polishing wheels, compounds, etc.. and worked on my clubs today. Very happy with the results (nice, clean and polished) but the scratches are still there. I used Black and Brown on the Yellow wheel. And then finished up with White and Green on the soft fluffy wheel. THANKS!
Im glad you tried it! You may have to do some sanding to get the scratches out, then polish with the wheels if you want them perfect. I don't believe they're steel, so you won't have to plate them.
@@BradMeehan Thank you, Brad!!! You are AWESOME!!
Brad, been really enjoying your content and almost have everything I need to try to do a complete restore and nickel or nickel then copper plate on a classic set of blades. My question in terms of the order to do the restoration, would this be best?
Strip Chrome
Sand
Polish
Clean
Plate with Nickel
Plate with Copper
Polish up
Or would I sand and polish while still chromed before stripping. Thanks.
Hi, Zach. I would definitely strip the chrome first. It's such a durable surface you'd just be battling yourself to get scratches out.
I added a few notes to your list below with **'s.
Strip Chrome
Sand
Polish
**Reface the club face with the media blaster if you have one**
Clean
**Clean again**
**Rinse with distilled water**
**Surface activate any remaining nickel**
**Rinse with distilled water**
Plate with Nickel
**Rinse with distilled water**
Plate with Copper
**Rinse with distilled water**
Polish up
**I'd only use the loose cotton after plating or do it by hand
Let me know how it turns out. I'd also recommend going to a thrift/second-hand store and buying a junk iron to practice on to fine-tune your method.
@@BradMeehan Awesome, awesome feedback, thank you. The only step I don't remember offhand is surface activating the nickel so I will refer back to your end-to-end video to brush up on that. A sacrificial Macgregor Golden Bear has been my test subject thus far and will continue to be. The set I am working on is a project I came up with around getting a set of classic blades from the year (or as close as I could get) I was born, 1990. I found a set of Wilson Gooseneck irons I absolutely can't wait to have looking incredible in copper with fresh shafts and grips. Thanks for your responsiveness!
@@zachdrummond4180 Check out the last few plating videos and i show the surface activator. It's about a 30 second job and it (supposedly) re-activates the existing nickel to accept the plating.
Have you seen these ferrules? Might look cool with copper clubs: bbandfco.com/collections/fresh-designs/products/cupric (or their full range here: bbandfco.com/collections/fresh-designs)
@@BradMeehan I was just looking at these the other day but they were sold out. If they're back in stock I'm on them.
What do you do for the face where the grooves are? It looked like you were abounding that area.
Check out my face reconditioning video. I use a cheap handheld sandblaster gun. Works great. There's equipment links in the description to see one.
Pretty good? Looks awesome. For a cast club, it appears that polishing them up, for the most part, is the extent to finishing that club. As long as they only have minor scratching. A lot more effort is needed in finishing a forged club.
Check out my other videos on how to do forged clubs. Pretty cool stuff.
Should the sisal wheel and black compound remove most scratches ? Then it's just working through the different compounds from them on?
Yes, but nothing too deep. If you van feel it with your finger nail, you'd have to smooth that down with sanding first. Then, use the sisal wheel to get rid of all the sanding marks.
Then, it's just polishing. Don't be in a rush to move to the next compound too quickly or it'll look cloudy. Take your time on each one.
@@BradMeehan thanks mate appreciate the advice ⛳👊
It’s seemed like you didn’t buff the area where the grooves are, if that is right was that for any particular reason ?
I was probably protective of the grooves. Years later, I now know it takes a LOT of sanding and polishing to get that far down that you'd ruin them.
What the brand of wheels you are using? Can't find the links
Check out the equipment link in the description. There are wheels under the Polshing section. Are you in US ?
All show no go out there on the course pal. 😅. Just messin with ya buddy. Good job.
Thanks!
Is there a way to do this by hand? Assuming using a high grit sand paper, maybe wet sanding? Not sure but might make a good video for those who don’t have power tools. *subbed* brother!
💯. All of this can be done by hand. This is how I learned to do it with just sandpaper. Just use straight lines and don't skip ahead with higher grits or you'll bury scratches in the finish.
You have me buying a bench grinder now! Will polishing the club face (the hitting area not the surrounding shiny steel) do any good if you see a few blemishes on them? Or will that do more harm than good? Thanks
I generally polish mine to give a uniform appearance, but i don't sand them. I'm removing MINIMAL material from the face for the same reason as you describe. If it's just wall art, you can sand away, but if you're going to play them then take it easy in the face. The sand blasting at the end will hide the blemishes a bit. There's a groove sharpening tool that I would hit the face with anyway. It's on my shop page in Face Reconditioning section if you want to see what one looks like: www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan/
@@BradMeehan - Thanks very much for the reply / thoughts. Was hoping not but looks like I'll have to buy a compressor / sand blast materials, groove sharpener if I want to do this right. Why can't I find hobbies that aren't expensive arhg. Darts. Origami. Bird watching. But no, I had to choose golf, photography, learning musical instruments, audio engineering, PC gaming, adopting animals and chasing women. My wallet can't take it no mo
@@ikigai47 I'm a big cheapskate so you can definitely do this on a budget. One bit of advice is to buy the biggest compressor you can afford.
@@ikigai47 Kill two birds with one stone: chase women with a big compressor.
Soo I purchased a ryobi bench grinder, the wheels are inside like a casing, there’s no reason I can’t remove them and have my wheels spinning out in the open is there? You definitely have more room for the clubs with the extensions and no protective casing.
You'll have to remove the guards. Should only be a few screws per side. You'll have a lot more room with the extenders.
Will this work for forged irons as well?
And doesn’t it remove the chrome coating?
It's different for forged. You can polish them using a yellow compound, then a green for the final buff, but the large nicks will still be there. It will be shiny, but not like the cast clubs.
Chrome is such a durable layer that you won't get the scratches out without getting under the chrome layer. Once removed, you'd be down to nickel or even bare steel and have to have them re-chromed ($$). I'm working on a video with 'near chrome', which is a cobalt with brighteners that looks like chrome but is more durable than nickel. Chrome is easily removed, and nickel is easy to polish. Then, the near chrome layer provides the brightness and hardness needed for durability.
I'm using these solutions:
www.amazon.com/Chrome-Plaing-Plate-copper-nickel/dp/B00WKHGZI2
Check out my latest video for how the bright nickel plating looks on forged irons.
Hello I know this video is off a couple of years ago but would like to ask you a question... I bought a sw off ebay to match my set the base of the club is in pretty poor condition can I use this process to take out the deal imperfections but baring in mind I have never done this before I have a picture of the club but don't know how to add the pic. Thank you
Absolutely. Sand paper would even get the scratches out. You use varying grits of paper, going higher and higher. You can start with like a 400 grit, sand away the imperfections, then switch to 600 grit (to get the scratches you made with the 400 out), then 800, 1000...
Check out my How to Make a Polisher video to take it from the 1000 grit to the mirror finish. 🪞
@BradMeehan thanks Brad for your info I'll give it a go but they are more than scratches more like indentations on the base of the club if you know what I mean thank you Brad
@@johnner70 I'd recommend finding a $1 junk club to practice on.
Is there a by hand video? I live in a smaller place and have no options for power tools unfortunately
I will make one, but you can do this with just varying grits of fine sand paper. Like 600 grit, then 800, then 1000, then 1500, etc. The higher grit you go, the shinier it will get *IF you take your time and don't skip ahead too fast.
Brad what would you say is the best way to remove deep scratches that just aren’t coming out with the black compound
Clubs like these, you can sand with 400 grit, then move to 600, then polish.
Can this be done on a bench grinder sanding grits? And if so what one would you reccomend
@@SuperLewisjudd That's too aggressive. Those are like 60 grit. In the videos, I use the deburring wheel, then hand sand those scratches away, then polish. There's a linknin the description for the deburring wheel. It fits onto your bench grinder. It will give the club a brushed look, which is why I sand those scratches with paper.
Hi Brad, I have a club with a satin finish here. I have slightly took to much off and now can get the satin finish back. What would you recommend to do I am worried
Do you have a media blaster? You can get it back with a light dusting to dull the shiny parts. Mine us a cheap one but it does the job.
@@BradMeehan no I do not have a media blaster I will look into purchasing one. Is there any other quick solution? Thank you
@@SuperLewisjudd Red Scotch-Brite pad will take away the shine and leave a light brushed look. They're sold in the paint department as a paint scuffing pad. If you're in US, Walmart has them too. Just mask the areas you want to keep shiny. The right way is the media gun but this will take away the gloss look.
@@BradMeehan okay thank you so much
Another sweet makeover Brad…I did the same with my Taylormade’s that I bought second hand. Yes, they’ll probably get scratched again, but there’s nothing wrong with making things look nice…some silly toxic person commenting that it’s a waste of time is an idiot…refurbishment is refurbishment regardless of age…and even if you wasn’t going to use them and to sell them on; you can command a higher price as they’re now pristine. Ignore the idiots and keep doing what you’re doing…and block that idiot 😋
Thanks you. Yeah, of ALL the comments I've received, only two were negative and it was that guy. Bored, I guess?
Would a hand grinder work as good ?
If you can attachm polishing wheels, I wouldn't see why not. I only worry about burning up a motor for such prolonged use. That's generally why I recommend against people using their drills, etc.
Which I had a bench grinder
Could you put a link to the buffing wheels you have? And Can you trust the wheels from Amazon?
So far so good. I got mine on Amazon!
www.amazon.com/dp/B07T56L7Y4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@BradMeehan thank you! Awesome video
Just added links to all the equipment in the description. Hope that helps!
Hi brad i hope your well,are you working on clubs anymore,ive enjoyed your work.
I am! Thanks for checking in. Just have a lot of life happening so my schedule has been tight. More on the way!
Hey Brad is this not a chrome finish?
It's not chrome. These cast clubs aren't plated and can be polished to a mirror shine. I learned this by polishing an aluminum gear shifter cover on a motorcycle. Same principles here. Forged irons would be plated to protect the bare steel, but these aren't
Hey buddy. I'm going to start this project today once Amazon delivers my bench grinder and I assemble it. I watched closely and noticed you didn't buff the chrome on the FACE of the club until you got to the white bar polish. Should I ignore the black and brown for the club's face and only use it for white? (I also noticed you didn't buff the very top of the club face (the part you look down at, when the club is at address) until white. Thanks
Sweet. You're going to love this.
I use both the sisal wheel and the black on the face now. I think this video was pre-sand blasting so I avoided it. The top likely had the matte finish and I avoided it as well. If you're going to blast it, then I'd start with the best "base coat" as you can then knock it back down to matte with the blaster. If you just go with the white, it'll look cloudy because white won't get out larger scratches.
Spend 99.999% of your time with the sisal wheels then go to the denim wheels.
I bought the polish rings from your link. I think they're super out of balance. The grinder sounds fine before I installed them, after it squeals like a pig. Quadruple checked and it's the polishing wheels. May try to get a set with more ply
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad. I went ahead and bought the spindle adapters because no matter what I do, when I put the polish wheels on it squeals like a banshee and I don't trust it. It's like the wheels aren't balanced. Hoping they'll clear that up. I'm confused with those spindle adapters because they have those points, and the polish wheels (especially the soft white one) doesn't seem to have a strong enough hole area to jive with those spindle adapters screwing in without the help of a nut/washer. But I ordered them anyway since I see you guys doing fine with them, and hopefully that will show that my polish wheels aren't defective. Otherwise, I'll have to return the wheels and get another brand. Waiting on their arrival for Saturday :) Thanks again I really appreciate the advice.
PS: I'm not at the blasting part yet. From what I understand that is for the FACE of the club where the ball hits. I was talking about the chrome on the face of the club, not the area where you strike the ball
@@BradMeehan - PS: I'm not saying this guy is right, I know nothing. But he's claiming you're supposed to use green before white, on stainless steel (with no mention of brown for ss. He says brown is for aluminum). Yet another thing to add to my confusion heh: ua-cam.com/video/ZLfgjeq86fw/v-deo.html
@@ikigai47 My white has some grit in it, but my green does not. Check out the chart on the third photo of this product. I'll screen shot it too.
amzn.to/3QWB5Me
This is just amazing! This was like the equivalent of porn for golf lol 😂 I just scored a set of titleist AP1 718 irons for decent price and they need a good polishing! This is night and day! Thanks for the tips!
I used the same wheels, same Caswell compounds, same technique on various clubs at various levels of scratchiness and still cannot get them to come out like yours. I know UA-cam’s are usually cut short so I’m wondering how much time do you spend on each club, with each compound/wheel combo? I’ve spent an hour on a club that wasn’t so scratched and still can’t get the sole shiny. I may be helpful to post a long form video or even a short video with more detailed explanation on your process. Or maybe I’m just too impatient.
Hey Brad, I bought a used driver and it had a couple of shallow marks in the paint on the top. I was able to get the marks out with some very fine sand paper, and then tried to polish it with 8000 grit sand paper and then some red rouge jewlers polish, but its left it somewhat cloudy where I sanded it. Any idea how I might fix that? Wish I could get it back to that mirror finish.
My guess is the leap from your fine grit to the 8000 was too great, meaning the 8000 isn't getting the scratches out that you introduced from the fine paper. The change has to be gradual, meaning if I use 400, I can't jump to 3000. I would need like an 800, then 1000, 1200, 3000, etc. However you're risking sanding through the paint. Have you tried a rubbing compound instead Ike in the Titleist video or the Cobra Baffler "2 Minute Polish" video? That may be safer.
@@BradMeehan went and got some Meguiars polish like in the video and it made a big difference! Still some swirl marks at certain angles but I can live with those.
@@DjPelland Good deal. You can apply this technique to a lot of different surfaces now.
How long do they stay shiny for?
That's really up to you and how you care for your clubs. They're shiny until someone jacks them up on rocks, bad lies, hard pan, etc.
@@BradMeehan thanks. Just wasn’t sure if as you are taking the top layer of if there was a coating that may be removed and they start to dull over a period of time.
@@TheFootyCoach351 You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
@@TheFootyCoach351 if you polish clubs with significant scratches and remove them , then the newxt time you can run the risk of going through to a dull layer - usually in the middle of the sole where you tend to polish most. the dull patch looks like a cloud reflecting in the shine on a sunny day but its a dark grey cloud - not visible form all angles but you know its there
Is there an easy way to know if clubs are chromed or high polish stainless steel? I feel like I’m the only person who doesn’t know this
Hi, Scott. Depending on the age, you can generally read what they're made of on the manufacturer's site.
What type of clubs are they? Maybe I can do some digging for you.
Also, try the magnet test. Stainless won't attract the magnet.
Both great feedbacks thank you! I have a Wilson Tour FG V2 which I though looked to be chrome. After watching your video I was back to second guessing myself
@@scottk7260 Just read this "FG Tour V2’s are forged from 8620 mild carbon steel..."
Love it, Brad! Will be following along with your vids!
How much did you pay for these irons on eBay?
$285 for 5 - GW.
@@BradMeehan great deal on the clubs and great video!
@@robertjimenez688 Thank you. Since I learned to do this, I can hunt for lower quality condition for a better price and still end up with new clubs.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Can always wet sand, starting with 600, down to 1500, 3000.
Absolutely.
Impressive! Why buy new clubs?
That's exactly it. You can buy a used set and make them look brand new for a FRACTION of the cost and still have something in the bag you'd be proud of.
Hi Brad I am learning to polish from your videos. I am doing my1st set of polishing. I was able to polish the shallow scratches and dings but not the deeper once because I am worried that I will take away all the chrome and nickel plating. Shall I continue grinding?Can I have your wattsapp number so I can send the photos of my polishing results?
I’m using a drill to polish my clubs but all I’m getting is a foggy look. Any reason why?
Couple of things: When I see cloudy finish on my clubs it means i didn't spend enough time on the previous step and tried to go to finer compounds before i worked out all of the scratches. You're probably still seeing the dissipation, but at a finer scale.
Could also be the speed of your drill. The bench grinder i'm using is moving at 3500 RPMs with a 6 inch wheel so it's very fast and doing 18 inches of cutting for every revolution of the wheel. I'm not sure how fast your drill is moving or how big the polishing attachment you're using but i could just be slow.
@@BradMeehan awsome! Thank you for the reply!
@@BradMeehan my drill is going at 3000 RPMs with a 4” wheel. I use black, brown, and green compound. I use a stitched wheel for black and brown and a cushion polish wheel for green.
scratches don’t. “dissipate” light they diffract light.
I was a C student.
@@BradMeehan You are doing a great job though.
Good morning. Did u know ur vid is on a ad for a different product? Id be pissed.
It is? Where?