This has answered and resolved my only concern with this tent and that was having to pitch inner first. Knowing it’s possible to do this has enabled me to finalise my purchasing decision. Thanks. The bike version is a good colour and more compact when packed so makes it the best choice in my opinion.
Wonderful! So glad you found the video helpful in making your decision. We agree the bike pack gives so much versatility even for backpacking, paddling, etc. and we're partial to the grey scheme as well. Enjoy your new shelter and happy camping!
I have the CS ul 1,I was thinking of getting the footprint for fast fly but the crossbar is connected on the ul 1. How tough is it to get it out of the pocket and clip it to the inner and then put back in pocket. It is so tight I would think it would be hard to do from inside.
Tent is awesome but using it with the footprint is FUSTRATING. With that being said, do I have to use the footprint with my tent? My footprint shouldn’t be this loose.. I can’t get a tight connection when setting up the tent rainfky into my footprint. Please make a video detailing on how to do this.
Hi @MichaelValecia, thanks for reaching out with your question. Every vendor (and tent for that matter) fits the FP a little differently. Most do allow for a little play with the FP underneath, mainly so it can provide some slide between the tent and FP as well as so it's not so taught when you pitch on something sharp. The tighter that FP is the more likely it is to wear or puncture, or worse pass the issue into your tent floor (or your back!). The CS does seem to be more loose than most, so we get what you're feeling. Harbor Freight and most hardware stores sell a grommet kit (pretty cheap). You can grab one of these and with the tent set up and FP staked tight underneath, mark where tighter grommets might sit. Then you can add 4 new grommets and that should be a viable long term option for you. Beyond that or sewing on new ribbons or shock cord, two tips to try for you would be to carry extra stakes and just pull the FP out/stake it independent of staking the tent body. For us the weight implication and extra step is dubious, but this would get the FP tight for you. You could also use short straight sticks you find around camp as 'stakes' to accomplish this mission. One other trick to try would be to clip the FP into the rainfly instead of the tent (even when using the tent body). Then as you pull the adjusters tight you'll be pulling the fly down and the FP up, and that would get it tighter. You'd want to have the FP staked out well for this to work. And...as you mention you could also just go without the FP depending on where you are camping and how abrasive the surface and how vigilant you are at selecting a site and removing sharps. You just may wear your tent floor out a little sooner this way but many opt for this option, saving weight at the same time. Happy camping!
@CirqRentals any tips on how to get the footprint tight when not doing fast pitch for rain? The straps are baggy when the tent poles are put into the inner and footprint, there is just loose material
Hi @kelle.rinaaa, please see our response below to @MichaelValencia. The same information would apply in your case. Let us know if you have any additional questions and happy camping!
I’ve been thinking about running my big Agnes black tail hotel fast fly with a light weight bivy, but idk if I would like that or if it would even lighten or compact my load!
Hi @madmaxthemotomutt6464, thanks for reaching out. Its hard to say -> depends on the weight of your tent body. Most are pretty negligible compared to bivy but worth weighing just the tent body and comparing it to the bivy you plan to use. You may save a few ounces/grams. I think the bigger difference is that your shelter will FEEL bigger and more airy w/o the tent body ->better ventilation too. As long as biting insects aren't too big of an issue where you are going, this can be a great option or just a bivy and a tarp set up - you can then use your trekking poles or sticks/trees found on site for your tarp and def save some weight. You'll probably need to camp out a lot of nights to properly test :). Happy camping!
Hi. Regarding quick pitch in rain. 1) Is it correct that you but the inner tent webbing under the groundsheet and connect it under the poles? 2) Do you connect the inner tent loops to the pegs together with the groundsheet loops? 3) Is it correct that you connect the fly to the buckles on the groundsheet and not to the inner tent?
Hi Jakob, great questions! There are a number of ways you can attach and re-attach in quick pitch, especially in rain vs. UL set up. Generally for me in rain conditions, my goal is to get everything up as quick and as dry as possible so in answering your questions: 1) Yes, I generally put the inner tent webbing under the groundsheet webbing and clip into the bottom of the pole. You can do this fairly easily from inside the fly and its quicker and easier than re-routing all the webbing and poles (which are now under tension). Of course you could unhook the pole from the footprint grommet and then restack the webbing in the 'normal' order but I find its just faster and easier to put the tent webbing on the bottom. And in a similar vein: 2) Honestly, I don't usually worry too much about 'staking' the inner tent body in a fast fly set up like this. The footprint is well staked and the fly is well anchored/clipped into the footprint so I have a secure and taught pitch. Since I'm mostly concerned about getting set up fast and dry, I don't usually worry too much about looping the stake loops on the inner tent. I'm sure you COULD do this from underneath and it would spread the inner tent floor out better, the only challenge would be that if you are setting it up from inside and under the pitched fly canopy, you're now reaching out a lot farther underneath to get to the stakes and you may risk pulling a stake. 3) Yes, in my approach to QP, I usually just leave the fly buckles clipped into the footprint for all the reasons above. Now, of course, after the storm, I'll often re-pitch and get everything set up the correct way and get my tent body pulled and staked out for a higher volume interior, but it all depends on how late we get to camp, what I expect the weather to do that night and how wiped we are after getting to camp :). If the wind is expected to be an issue then I'll get out and re-stake with the tent body, set up guy lines etc. I'm a huge fan of a properly pitched and taught tent set up so quick pitching this way is just a tool to get set up fast and dry and then I can fiddle with perfection later. Hope this helps you dial in your QP and happy camping, rain or shine!
When setting it up normally, are u supposed to put the poles through both the tent and the ground sheet? Also can I use the stakes from ground sheet for the tent body too?
Hi Art, every tent is a little different but with the Copper Spur, no, you don't need to run the poles through both. You'll have the 'Tip Lock' receptacle on the tent body ribbons, but not on the footprint (just grommets on the fp). On the Copper Spur, you can just connect the poles to the tip lock on the tent body under normal condition and forego clipping the foot print. I usually stake out the tent body ribbons vs. the footprint to get the most taut pitch on the tent and the most surface area on the floor of the tent. You can loop the footprint ribbons through the stakes at the same time, (I usually do that and recommend it) but I'm most concerned about getting the tent body tight. I don't mind if the footprint is a little looser under there or if it 'floats a little' as long as it its tucked totally under the tent, doesn't have any wrinkles, and can't catch any rain around the edges. On tents that don't have the 'tip lock' or some other special reception, then as you suggest I usually do clip the tent poles through the grommets on both the tent body AND the footprint. Then, when attaching the rainfly (if only grommets and no buckles) Ill curl the ribbon on the rainfly under the other two and clip the grommet to the pole bottoms from underneath (so I don't have to unclip the footprint or tent body). this also helps keep things oriented correctly and prevent the footprint from blowing around (or away) while you are setting up. Also if you need to reposition the free standing tent for some reason at this point, it's all connected together and you can do that. If for some reason clipping the footprint AND the tent body to the poles exposes the footprint to rain or the fit just doesn't seem right, I favor using the tent body grommets with poles over the footprint grommets. Hope this helps and let us know if you have any other questions and happy camping!
Have you ever camped in that fast-fly mode? Wondering if some heavy rain would splash inside the tent or on the floor, there seems to be quite a gap in between at the bottom.
Hi themaecki, that's a great question. Yes, I've camped in this set up many times during the summer especially in the southeast, and yes I've been caught in a few storms. You're going to get some splash back in heavy rain, thunderstorm, etc. Mostly around the edges at the head and foot (the vestibule area shields the sides of the footprint very well). I'm usually using this set up for summer camping in fair weather, arid locations, or times when the forecast is just prime. The amount of bounce back also depends on the surface you're camping on and how soft or absorbent. You'd be fine in a light rain, and it's going to shelter you from a heavy rain, it's just not going to be perfectly dry. We recommend a synthetic bag, hydrophobic down, or a waterproof breathable sleeping bag shell if this set up is expected to be used in a rainy setting or over a longer trip. If you get caught in a pinch you can also gather leaf litter, rocks, etc to place around the perimeter and shield the gap to reduce the amount of bounce back. Just know you'll also be cutting down your airflow. Hope you stay dry out there and happy camping!
have you had this tent in alot of rainy conditions? how did it do? Also in the morning when packing up, how do you pack the rain fly into your pack? I was thinking about making a netting stuff sack to put in the rain fly when packing up and store on the outside of my pack and allow it to dry or if raining i would pack in a trashbag to keep from getting more wet. What do you do
Hi Dennis, Yes, we've had the Copper Spur out in many rainy conditions. It holds up really well to rain and wind in its standard set up (tent and rainfly). With the quick pitch or fast fly set up you see in this video, its pretty good but if you are in a windy storm or driving rain on harder surfaces you will likely get some splash back at the gap between the fly and footprint, especially at the head and foot areas. The side vestibules provide great coverage on the sides. So, it will protect you in a storm and keep you sheltered but you might not be completely 'home dry' in those conditions. We generally recommend this set up for arid trips and favorable forecasts, or as a way to set up in the rain with minimal exposure during set up to the inner tent. We cover this in a little more detail in another comment response to this video, but let let us know if you have additional questions. On your packing question, you've got some great thinking there! Depending on the length of your trip and your conditions, you could go with either a mesh stuff sack as you recommend for 'day drying' or a waterproof stuff sack to keep the wet things separate from the dry inside your pack. A trash bag or compacter liner can work great for this as well an economical! My set up is usually a waterproof stuff stack for my rainfly and footprint especially if I'm going to be setting the tent up each night, and then a second stuff sack for the tent body itself. Inside a waterproof sack, your rainfly should still get enough dry/air time when it is set up on continuous evenings to not develop mold/mildew during the day in your pack. It's when you leave it stuffed and packed wet for multiple days in a row that you usually start to see mildew. We sometimes see it on our rental tents when some one packs it wet or damp and ships it back to us (2-5 days in shipping). If you're going to be out for a month or more of continuous wet weather (say a thru hike or canoe expedition), that might be another story, especially if its a hot/humid area. Then your mesh sack idea is a great one. I've also made use of the mesh stretch panels on my packs for this 'airing/drying' approach to rainflies, wet rain jackets etc. I do this w/o a stuff sack, I just stuff it into the mesh area on the pack, and move it around/re-stuff it throughout the day. We always recommend bringing a pack towel that's dedicated to drying a wet rainfly from rain and condensation each day before packing it up and this will make a huge difference in all packing techniques. Let us know if you have any additional questions and happy camping!
I would more likely not have the setup with only the fly. I will have the rain fly and main tent as my setup, so with this setup it protects good in rainy and windy conditions. I would want to use the quick fly setup to protect the main tent from getting wet
Hi Hans, great question - we'll have to add that to future fast fly videos. On the two person tent, you save about 14oz by leaving the tent body at home, or just under a pound going with the fast fly configuration. You're nominally adding the 5oz footprint (which is usually not counted in published trail weights and therefore the net weight savings with the footprint is 9 oz.) If you always use the footprint, you're saving 14oz, if you'd otherwise leave the footprint home when not it fast fly mode, you're saving 9oz over your normal set up. Not huge, but definitely meaningful the more miles you are putting in. Almost exact savings on the bike pack version. Thanks for your question and happy camping!
This has answered and resolved my only concern with this tent and that was having to pitch inner first.
Knowing it’s possible to do this has enabled me to finalise my purchasing decision.
Thanks.
The bike version is a good colour and more compact when packed so makes it the best choice in my opinion.
Wonderful! So glad you found the video helpful in making your decision. We agree the bike pack gives so much versatility even for backpacking, paddling, etc. and we're partial to the grey scheme as well. Enjoy your new shelter and happy camping!
I had the same confusion as you and this video solved my problem, thanks!
I have the CS ul 1,I was thinking of getting the footprint for fast fly but the crossbar is connected on the ul 1. How tough is it to get it out of the pocket and clip it to the inner and then put back in pocket. It is so tight I would think it would be hard to do from inside.
Tent is awesome but using it with the footprint is FUSTRATING. With that being said, do I have to use the footprint with my tent? My footprint shouldn’t be this loose..
I can’t get a tight connection when setting up the tent rainfky into my footprint.
Please make a video detailing on how to do this.
Hi @MichaelValecia, thanks for reaching out with your question. Every vendor (and tent for that matter) fits the FP a little differently. Most do allow for a little play with the FP underneath, mainly so it can provide some slide between the tent and FP as well as so it's not so taught when you pitch on something sharp. The tighter that FP is the more likely it is to wear or puncture, or worse pass the issue into your tent floor (or your back!). The CS does seem to be more loose than most, so we get what you're feeling. Harbor Freight and most hardware stores sell a grommet kit (pretty cheap). You can grab one of these and with the tent set up and FP staked tight underneath, mark where tighter grommets might sit. Then you can add 4 new grommets and that should be a viable long term option for you. Beyond that or sewing on new ribbons or shock cord, two tips to try for you would be to carry extra stakes and just pull the FP out/stake it independent of staking the tent body. For us the weight implication and extra step is dubious, but this would get the FP tight for you. You could also use short straight sticks you find around camp as 'stakes' to accomplish this mission. One other trick to try would be to clip the FP into the rainfly instead of the tent (even when using the tent body). Then as you pull the adjusters tight you'll be pulling the fly down and the FP up, and that would get it tighter. You'd want to have the FP staked out well for this to work. And...as you mention you could also just go without the FP depending on where you are camping and how abrasive the surface and how vigilant you are at selecting a site and removing sharps. You just may wear your tent floor out a little sooner this way but many opt for this option, saving weight at the same time. Happy camping!
@CirqRentals any tips on how to get the footprint tight when not doing fast pitch for rain? The straps are baggy when the tent poles are put into the inner and footprint, there is just loose material
Hi @kelle.rinaaa, please see our response below to @MichaelValencia. The same information would apply in your case. Let us know if you have any additional questions and happy camping!
I’ve been thinking about running my big Agnes black tail hotel fast fly with a light weight bivy, but idk if I would like that or if it would even lighten or compact my load!
Hi @madmaxthemotomutt6464, thanks for reaching out. Its hard to say -> depends on the weight of your tent body. Most are pretty negligible compared to bivy but worth weighing just the tent body and comparing it to the bivy you plan to use. You may save a few ounces/grams. I think the bigger difference is that your shelter will FEEL bigger and more airy w/o the tent body ->better ventilation too. As long as biting insects aren't too big of an issue where you are going, this can be a great option or just a bivy and a tarp set up - you can then use your trekking poles or sticks/trees found on site for your tarp and def save some weight. You'll probably need to camp out a lot of nights to properly test :). Happy camping!
Hi.
Regarding quick pitch in rain.
1) Is it correct that you but the inner tent webbing under the groundsheet and connect it under the poles?
2) Do you connect the inner tent loops to the pegs together with the groundsheet loops?
3) Is it correct that you connect the fly to the buckles on the groundsheet and not to the inner tent?
Hi Jakob, great questions! There are a number of ways you can attach and re-attach in quick pitch, especially in rain vs. UL set up. Generally for me in rain conditions, my goal is to get everything up as quick and as dry as possible so in answering your questions:
1) Yes, I generally put the inner tent webbing under the groundsheet webbing and clip into the bottom of the pole. You can do this fairly easily from inside the fly and its quicker and easier than re-routing all the webbing and poles (which are now under tension). Of course you could unhook the pole from the footprint grommet and then restack the webbing in the 'normal' order but I find its just faster and easier to put the tent webbing on the bottom. And in a similar vein:
2) Honestly, I don't usually worry too much about 'staking' the inner tent body in a fast fly set up like this. The footprint is well staked and the fly is well anchored/clipped into the footprint so I have a secure and taught pitch. Since I'm mostly concerned about getting set up fast and dry, I don't usually worry too much about looping the stake loops on the inner tent. I'm sure you COULD do this from underneath and it would spread the inner tent floor out better, the only challenge would be that if you are setting it up from inside and under the pitched fly canopy, you're now reaching out a lot farther underneath to get to the stakes and you may risk pulling a stake.
3) Yes, in my approach to QP, I usually just leave the fly buckles clipped into the footprint for all the reasons above.
Now, of course, after the storm, I'll often re-pitch and get everything set up the correct way and get my tent body pulled and staked out for a higher volume interior, but it all depends on how late we get to camp, what I expect the weather to do that night and how wiped we are after getting to camp :). If the wind is expected to be an issue then I'll get out and re-stake with the tent body, set up guy lines etc. I'm a huge fan of a properly pitched and taught tent set up so quick pitching this way is just a tool to get set up fast and dry and then I can fiddle with perfection later. Hope this helps you dial in your QP and happy camping, rain or shine!
When setting it up normally, are u supposed to put the poles through both the tent and the ground sheet? Also can I use the stakes from ground sheet for the tent body too?
Hi Art, every tent is a little different but with the Copper Spur, no, you don't need to run the poles through both. You'll have the 'Tip Lock' receptacle on the tent body ribbons, but not on the footprint (just grommets on the fp).
On the Copper Spur, you can just connect the poles to the tip lock on the tent body under normal condition and forego clipping the foot print. I usually stake out the tent body ribbons vs. the footprint to get the most taut pitch on the tent and the most surface area on the floor of the tent. You can loop the footprint ribbons through the stakes at the same time, (I usually do that and recommend it) but I'm most concerned about getting the tent body tight. I don't mind if the footprint is a little looser under there or if it 'floats a little' as long as it its tucked totally under the tent, doesn't have any wrinkles, and can't catch any rain around the edges.
On tents that don't have the 'tip lock' or some other special reception, then as you suggest I usually do clip the tent poles through the grommets on both the tent body AND the footprint. Then, when attaching the rainfly (if only grommets and no buckles) Ill curl the ribbon on the rainfly under the other two and clip the grommet to the pole bottoms from underneath (so I don't have to unclip the footprint or tent body). this also helps keep things oriented correctly and prevent the footprint from blowing around (or away) while you are setting up. Also if you need to reposition the free standing tent for some reason at this point, it's all connected together and you can do that. If for some reason clipping the footprint AND the tent body to the poles exposes the footprint to rain or the fit just doesn't seem right, I favor using the tent body grommets with poles over the footprint grommets.
Hope this helps and let us know if you have any other questions and happy camping!
Have you ever camped in that fast-fly mode? Wondering if some heavy rain would splash inside the tent or on the floor, there seems to be quite a gap in between at the bottom.
Hi themaecki, that's a great question. Yes, I've camped in this set up many times during the summer especially in the southeast, and yes I've been caught in a few storms. You're going to get some splash back in heavy rain, thunderstorm, etc. Mostly around the edges at the head and foot (the vestibule area shields the sides of the footprint very well). I'm usually using this set up for summer camping in fair weather, arid locations, or times when the forecast is just prime. The amount of bounce back also depends on the surface you're camping on and how soft or absorbent. You'd be fine in a light rain, and it's going to shelter you from a heavy rain, it's just not going to be perfectly dry. We recommend a synthetic bag, hydrophobic down, or a waterproof breathable sleeping bag shell if this set up is expected to be used in a rainy setting or over a longer trip. If you get caught in a pinch you can also gather leaf litter, rocks, etc to place around the perimeter and shield the gap to reduce the amount of bounce back. Just know you'll also be cutting down your airflow. Hope you stay dry out there and happy camping!
@@CirqRentals Great answer! Thanks.
have you had this tent in alot of rainy conditions? how did it do? Also in the morning when packing up, how do you pack the rain fly into your pack? I was thinking about making a netting stuff sack to put in the rain fly when packing up and store on the outside of my pack and allow it to dry or if raining i would pack in a trashbag to keep from getting more wet. What do you do
Hi Dennis,
Yes, we've had the Copper Spur out in many rainy conditions. It holds up really well to rain and wind in its standard set up (tent and rainfly). With the quick pitch or fast fly set up you see in this video, its pretty good but if you are in a windy storm or driving rain on harder surfaces you will likely get some splash back at the gap between the fly and footprint, especially at the head and foot areas. The side vestibules provide great coverage on the sides. So, it will protect you in a storm and keep you sheltered but you might not be completely 'home dry' in those conditions. We generally recommend this set up for arid trips and favorable forecasts, or as a way to set up in the rain with minimal exposure during set up to the inner tent. We cover this in a little more detail in another comment response to this video, but let let us know if you have additional questions.
On your packing question, you've got some great thinking there! Depending on the length of your trip and your conditions, you could go with either a mesh stuff sack as you recommend for 'day drying' or a waterproof stuff sack to keep the wet things separate from the dry inside your pack. A trash bag or compacter liner can work great for this as well an economical! My set up is usually a waterproof stuff stack for my rainfly and footprint especially if I'm going to be setting the tent up each night, and then a second stuff sack for the tent body itself. Inside a waterproof sack, your rainfly should still get enough dry/air time when it is set up on continuous evenings to not develop mold/mildew during the day in your pack. It's when you leave it stuffed and packed wet for multiple days in a row that you usually start to see mildew. We sometimes see it on our rental tents when some one packs it wet or damp and ships it back to us (2-5 days in shipping). If you're going to be out for a month or more of continuous wet weather (say a thru hike or canoe expedition), that might be another story, especially if its a hot/humid area. Then your mesh sack idea is a great one. I've also made use of the mesh stretch panels on my packs for this 'airing/drying' approach to rainflies, wet rain jackets etc. I do this w/o a stuff sack, I just stuff it into the mesh area on the pack, and move it around/re-stuff it throughout the day. We always recommend bringing a pack towel that's dedicated to drying a wet rainfly from rain and condensation each day before packing it up and this will make a huge difference in all packing techniques.
Let us know if you have any additional questions and happy camping!
I would more likely not have the setup with only the fly. I will have the rain fly and main tent as my setup, so with this setup it protects good in rainy and windy conditions. I would want to use the quick fly setup to protect the main tent from getting wet
Thx!
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed the video!
Please fix the sound level.
Why? It sounds fine.
Great video - how much weight do you save with the fast fly set up 💁😊🏕
Hi Hans, great question - we'll have to add that to future fast fly videos. On the two person tent, you save about 14oz by leaving the tent body at home, or just under a pound going with the fast fly configuration. You're nominally adding the 5oz footprint (which is usually not counted in published trail weights and therefore the net weight savings with the footprint is 9 oz.) If you always use the footprint, you're saving 14oz, if you'd otherwise leave the footprint home when not it fast fly mode, you're saving 9oz over your normal set up. Not huge, but definitely meaningful the more miles you are putting in. Almost exact savings on the bike pack version. Thanks for your question and happy camping!
Thanks very much 😀