*Trivia, of sorts:* The "N" stands for Paul Neill, the designer. There's also a smaller "C" connector named for Carl Concelman. So merging the two designs into a small connector gives us a BNC connector, a twist-lock "Bayonet Neill-Concelman", while a TNC is a threaded version. Back in the late 1980s while working with early Ethernet networking, I had to install several N connectors on the "trunk" coax. They weren't the crimp style, they had a threaded collar with a hex shape, and the connector body had flat spots 180° apart to allow using an open-end wrench during assembly. Crimping is so much faster and easier, as demonstrated here in the video.
I had to smile when I saw the little saw for trimming the center conductor 😂 I did quite a few BNC/RG316 cables lately and that’s completely on the other side of the spectrum 😅
Another useful and entertaining video. Watching you do this gives me the knowledge AND the confidence to do it. After watching your other videos I’ve gotten pretty good at BNC and PL259’s. But have only tried N connectors a few times. Thanks Alan! de W3AL
Nice video, very clear step by step. Thank you for pointing out good techniques, avoiding potential issues with too little or too much solder, or being sloppy with it. Taking your time to make sure the connector stays properly seated onto the end of the cable before and during crimping is essential to produce the best physical and electrical attachment. 🙂👍
I needed precisely one of those male N with LMR600 a few years ago... I've done a lot of RG316 RG58 but for this job i didn't feel quite up to the task, I've ordered it 🤣
Good way to test if the connector center pin is fully seated after crimping is put your thumb over the end of the connector and press lightly then look at your thumb and it should look like a bullseye with the center pin as the center of the bullseye---N3HTZ
When doing a lot of these it pays to shell out for the Times Microwave EZ series connectors. No centre pin soldering or crimping required. It connects with spring fingers in the connector body.
I'm using this video since it's your latest to date thinking there's might be a better chance that you would get to see it. Could you please do a video on attenuators. Perhaps the different resistor circuits, measuring them with dB, and also including how to use them in a project a person may be doing. I am currently making a pulse/function generator out of TTL devices just for the mere fun of it. It would be nice to include an attenuator in the project. I concur with most of your commenters that you are an excellent teacher. Many thanks for considering this.
@@w2aew Ah yes. Thank you so much for pointing me to this video. I missed it as I perused your channel. Needless to say, I have learned a ton of theory and circuit fun with your videos. They are much enjoyed and highly appreciated. It does not go unnoticed that it takes a considerable effort to make these videos, not to mention your expertice that you share with us. Thank You !!!
@@scottmorgan5370 Don't forget, there is a link on my channel's homepage to a PDF index of all of my videos. This makes it easy to use the search feature to find a video of interest, and then click on the link to watch it.
@@w2aew Thank You. I went ahead and downloaded it into my resources folder. Quite a treasure chest full of information. A quick question. On your video No138 "How to measure output impedance" you showed us a function generator that you had built many moons ago. I understand the output AC and DC coupling with a capacitor in series with the DC side and bypassed on AC. Your "coupling" control has +DC and -DC. This has thrown me a curve ball with a swing and a miss! The "invert" circuit has me doing some mental gymnastics as well. Needless to say, I'm very much a tyro novice! Do you still have the schematics you used to put this gem together?
@@scottmorgan5370 The +DC and -DC allow me to add a positive or negative DC offset to the output. Invert turns the waveform upside-down. Doesn't matter for waveforms like sine waves, etc., but does have an effect on asymmetric waveforms.
Looks nice! I saw some old videos where they used thermal type wire strippers on stranded electrical wire that melted the insulation without nicking the wire. I wonder if such a tool could be fabricated and implemented for coax use? I find if I bend the cable in my hands slightly that it cuts through the outer jacket easier as there's a little tension on it. I like your "work backwards" idea here. Thanks for showing and 73's.
Very nicely done. But I noticed that your stripping did not match the dimensions on the figure one to one. Either that figure was not to scale, or dimensions that work well are not that precise.
w2aew there is a mass confusion over the difference between bead, choke and inductor. They all have inductance but are not the same thing. I still do not understand the difference between these.
Times Microwave CST-600 prep tool will permit you to do this virtually blindfolded, you won't run the risk of cutting your finger off, and you'll get a better job, end of story. Don't get me wrong The box cutters and utility knives have their place in a pinch but why do it the hard way?
Proper coax prep tools are definitely the way to go if you have a lot of terminations to make. However, those excellent Times Microwave tools are an expensive proposition for folks that only need to do a small handful of connections.
Used to do a lot of these with RG-214, it's certainly the kind of work where good tools are critical.
*Trivia, of sorts:* The "N" stands for Paul Neill, the designer. There's also a smaller "C" connector named for Carl Concelman. So merging the two designs into a small connector gives us a BNC connector, a twist-lock "Bayonet Neill-Concelman", while a TNC is a threaded version.
Back in the late 1980s while working with early Ethernet networking, I had to install several N connectors on the "trunk" coax. They weren't the crimp style, they had a threaded collar with a hex shape, and the connector body had flat spots 180° apart to allow using an open-end wrench during assembly. Crimping is so much faster and easier, as demonstrated here in the video.
I had to smile when I saw the little saw for trimming the center conductor 😂
I did quite a few BNC/RG316 cables lately and that’s completely on the other side of the spectrum 😅
Thanks Alan! I like the reverse stripping tip. You forgot the heat shrink tho
Another useful and entertaining video. Watching you do this gives me the knowledge AND the confidence to do it. After watching your other videos I’ve gotten pretty good at BNC and PL259’s. But have only tried N connectors a few times. Thanks Alan! de W3AL
Thanks Alan we used to use these all the time in the Navy for our UHF radio sets, especially for SATCOM.
Nice video, very clear step by step. Thank you for pointing out good techniques, avoiding potential issues with too little or too much solder, or being sloppy with it. Taking your time to make sure the connector stays properly seated onto the end of the cable before and during crimping is essential to produce the best physical and electrical attachment.
🙂👍
Clear video and good tip on reverse stripping!
Thanks. Their crimping frame and die sets look to be very reasonably priced.
I needed precisely one of those male N with LMR600 a few years ago... I've done a lot of RG316 RG58 but for this job i didn't feel quite up to the task, I've ordered it 🤣
Good way to test if the connector center pin is fully seated after crimping is put your thumb over the end of the connector and press lightly then look at your thumb and it should look like a bullseye with the center pin as the center of the bullseye---N3HTZ
When doing a lot of these it pays to shell out for the Times Microwave EZ series connectors. No centre pin soldering or crimping required. It connects with spring fingers in the connector body.
I'm using this video since it's your latest to date thinking there's might be a better chance that you would get to see it. Could you please do a video on attenuators. Perhaps the different resistor circuits, measuring them with dB, and also including how to use them in a project a person may be doing. I am currently making a pulse/function generator out of TTL devices just for the mere fun of it. It would be nice to include an attenuator in the project. I concur with most of your commenters that you are an excellent teacher. Many thanks for considering this.
I do have a video on attenuators. See here: ua-cam.com/video/A5gGeV7CiQ0/v-deo.htmlsi=KFOujppWNbYotAYc
@@w2aew Ah yes. Thank you so much for pointing me to this video. I missed it as I perused your channel. Needless to say, I have learned a ton of theory and circuit fun with your videos. They are much enjoyed and highly appreciated. It does not go unnoticed that it takes a considerable effort to make these videos, not to mention your expertice that you share with us. Thank You !!!
@@scottmorgan5370 Don't forget, there is a link on my channel's homepage to a PDF index of all of my videos. This makes it easy to use the search feature to find a video of interest, and then click on the link to watch it.
@@w2aew Thank You. I went ahead and downloaded it into my resources folder. Quite a treasure chest full of information. A quick question. On your video No138 "How to measure output impedance" you showed us a function generator that you had built many moons ago. I understand the output AC and DC coupling with a capacitor in series with the DC side and bypassed on AC. Your "coupling" control has +DC and -DC. This has thrown me a curve ball with a swing and a miss! The "invert" circuit has me doing some mental gymnastics as well. Needless to say, I'm very much a tyro novice! Do you still have the schematics you used to put this gem together?
@@scottmorgan5370 The +DC and -DC allow me to add a positive or negative DC offset to the output. Invert turns the waveform upside-down. Doesn't matter for waveforms like sine waves, etc., but does have an effect on asymmetric waveforms.
Looks nice! I saw some old videos where they used thermal type wire strippers on stranded electrical wire that melted the insulation without nicking the wire. I wonder if such a tool could be fabricated and implemented for coax use? I find if I bend the cable in my hands slightly that it cuts through the outer jacket easier as there's a little tension on it. I like your "work backwards" idea here. Thanks for showing and 73's.
I'd like to see how to terminate those solder on semi-rigid SMA connectors.
Great Video! Thank You!
Nice. Have you ever tried crimping the really small connectors like u.fl or is that a don't bother situation?
Forgotten to add heatshrink first to go over the crimp! Good video though
Thanks for this!
They use PIM connectors for this kinda work?
Beautiful!
Lol was just looking for a description smaller version and your video pops up! Google can be very fast!
It helps that Google owns UA-cam ;-)
Thanks, Alan❤
De VU2RZA
in ABQ, NM
Back to basics, back to basics! 😁🇨🇦
Very nicely done. But I noticed that your stripping did not match the dimensions on the figure one to one. Either that figure was not to scale, or dimensions that work well are not that precise.
The figure was not drawn to scale.
w2aew there is a mass confusion over the difference between bead, choke and inductor. They all have inductance but are not the same thing. I still do not understand the difference between these.
Got a good source for connectors and the tool? Great video!
See the link in the video description.
🌟🌷🌟
Times Microwave CST-600 prep tool will permit you to do this virtually blindfolded, you won't run the risk of cutting your finger off, and you'll get a better job, end of story. Don't get me wrong The box cutters and utility knives have their place in a pinch but why do it the hard way?
Proper coax prep tools are definitely the way to go if you have a lot of terminations to make. However, those excellent Times Microwave tools are an expensive proposition for folks that only need to do a small handful of connections.
73s
I am the first watcher!
Don't use crimped ever ..hell no
Are you having a bad day? :-)
A properly crimped connection is very reliable - automotive and military qualified.
No thanks
@@justinruth9729 No worries - use whatever YOU are comfortable with.