These videos are way more informative than others on UA-cam which show what happens when batteries run out. They are usually clickbait, alarmist nonsense. This is helpful info for anyone who buys this car. The only thing missing is how to safely be towed.
As others have mentioned, the bricking at 8:50 was likely unrelated to the depleted battery. It was the dreaded zombie mode, that also affects EV6. It is said Kia is working on fix.
I love watching these to know what happens if range is not enough to reach a charger. Kepp them going Bjorn!........Also my little story and I was inspired from watching these.... I decided to push my Kia E niro to reach a charging spot with amenities next to it. GOM showed 10 miles more than distance to charger. About 12 miles out, the turtle mode came up on my screen and the mileage display showed only three dashes, switching to the EV display, I saw it was at 6%. I slowed to follow a lorry and a tense few miles as stuck on a motorway and nowhere to turn off. The mileage per percentage was getting less and kept dropping. Finally at 2% it reached the off ramp and I recouped half a mile! Finally we arrived with 1% left. I was super We set the car charging, went to eat and when we came out, we had enough range to get home. All well.
My Ioniq5 shows the same 5% buffer below 0% displayed. I’ve only driven it down to 2% SOC BMS, not until it sotpped. I did run out once in my old Kia Soul and it died the same way, normal power, then suddenly just crawling speed, then it sotpped. Unfortunately, when that happened, I really was stranded (first EV, poor planning) My feeling is that every vehicle, even if the engine won’t start or there isn’t enough power to run the EV drivetrain, it should always be able to shift to neutral. Some cars will not allow you to shift out of park if the vehicle won’t drive itself (EV or ICE)
Just something to point out, when you turn the car on, other things will turn on like coolant pumps, power steering pumps, fans, heaters, ancillary equipment etc hence why it only looks like it's charging at 1.8kw whilst pulling 2.2 from the charger
Yes, it was the zombie mode (I have the EV6). There is a specific sequence, and if you press the Start with the brake pedal on and mode to D, in a fast sequence before the Ready warning, the "zombie mode" usually happens. To resume, usually you press P, Start and Start again, waiting for the ready state before swapping to D. It's a combination more or less like this. I'm still trying to figure out exactly.
Master Bjørn, Thanks for doing these tests... It is really valuable to know how an ev behaves when the battery runs low, so you can recognize it, and do the right thing before it totally empties out...
A lot of people think, that running out of juice is worse with electric cars than ICE cars, but actually lot of the common rail diesel or direct injection gas cars takes a lot more time and skill to start again after they suck in air instead of diesel/gas.
That 400W loss is probably 10% (210W) in the onboard charger's AC to DC conversion (pretty standard), and 190W to the DC-DC converter that's powering the 12V systems. Assume another 10% loss there and that's about 170W going to the computer, displays, fans, lighting, and whatever phones and chargers are plugged into the 12V outlets. Not terrible really.
Bjorn, that symbol is the immobiliser not key detection. I know this because my brand new Niro EV3 does the same damn thing most mornings when it’s charged to 100%!! It’s booked in to Kia next week but Googling tells me this is a very common issue and MAY be related to low voltage from the 12v battery. Always carry a 12v battery boost… I’ve ordered one
Mine also did it one morning with 100% in the battery. Couldn’t put it in gear. I stepped out, locked the car, let it rest for an hour, then it worked.
It’s also possibly related to preconditioning in the mornings being detected by the car as a possible attempt at someone trying to tamper with the car. Dumb system. Apparently not preconditioning on a freezing cold morning solves the problem. You just get into a freezing cold car with fogged windows. In 2022. Yes, that’s progress 🙄
@@garethdesborough7960 mine has done it without the preconditioning. I drove 15 miles, got out to go to the shops and in 10 mins it stopped working. Locked car, walked away to send a tweet and came back and unlocked the car. I originally locked the car with the key fob but unlocked it with door button. Locked again with key fob, came back in less than 5 mins and unlocked with key fob. Worked
Are you going to test ID5 again with drive to 0? I really think those videos are great, so it shows poeple what to expect when going to Zero and are moer relaxed or know when to really go charging. Also i would love to see a series what happened on each of theses cars when you are on autosteer or travel assist and do not react (maybe because you got a heartattack or fell asleep. How save are the cars in brining you to a stop and//or call emergency.)
Hi Bjorn, I love these 0% videos as it's reassuring to know or have a good idea of what'll happen if an EV runs out of charge completely. Did you do the older e-Niro at all? I'm buying one this week and have been binging on all your old clips! 😂
Thanks for doing what most of us won't lol. But just in case it ever happened, at least I have an idea that I have a few km past 0%. Looks like you got that zombie mode the Niro is plagued with. If you get the car again if you hold the power button down for 10sec and boot the car up again, that should have got you up and running.
Very well done, as always... But please: clean the lenses!! You are always cleaning windscreen but not lenses!!| Remember to ABC always be cleaning (lenses...)
The front lens is in fact very clean. But the dust is in one of the inner lenses. Not easy to clean unless I send it to Canon service and pay lots of money (and meanwhile I don't have that camera to use...)
The problem with this car is the battery run out quickly, the range is 285 miles but not enough for me ,im not happy because it cost every day 40 £ so if you don't drive much is the best but I drive a lot ,it take 1h and 20 min to 2 hours for fully charged not worth the wait , I didn't like to drive electric but don't have a choice , I know in the future they will bring technology more range and quick charge because always they bring technology slowly I know .
I was testing a Niro (or Kona? whichever) at work one day: car sitting, sometimes plugging it to charge it a bit, key placed wherever, window open, occasionally door open. I had problems with it emptying the 12V battery in some situations. I'd be quite afraid of that happening when it runs below 0%.
To be honest- for me the point of running out of juice (actually watching someone do this) is to know what happens when the car stops. No point of doing the video when You stop just because You stop (imho of course)
Håper du tar en test på Ioniq 5 2023 modell også. Så får vi se hvordan det oppdaterte batteriet presterer og også hvordan den nye forvarmingen fungerer.
I think the 12v battery died a bit as the car complains about no key detected and that is typical for that car as on the old e niro it happens when the 12v is not powered by the big accu. It can happen already within a half hour
I understand why you make these videos - they are useful for people who think like they might hit 0% in the battery. What do the manufacturers think when they lend you these cars? I expect you will have caused some damage by doing this?
I suspect these PR cars are expected to take a lot of beating when being tested, that they are „sacrificed“ by the manufacturer for the purpose. Also, hitting the 0 is something the car needs to handle without extensive damage, because it's something the user might do, repeatedly, while not breaking warranty conditions. Never reaching 0 is better for the battery, sure, but it's not like driving the car off the cliff or something.
He is not causing any damage! Cell voltage is really high (3.2V) even at so called 0%. According to samsung the lowest allowed voltage is 2.5V! Trust me, BMS will never allow to go that low! BMS would shut down car completely at 3.0V/2.8V to protect battery. Do your homework before saying anything in this topic.
@@ataksnajpera Well, from what I know, a full cycle of the battery is causing it more stress (more degradation) than two „half“ cycles around the middle. If you do such thing often (going to the user-zero or even the real stop zero), the battery will degrade faster then if you don't do it. So, calling it „damage“ is probably not exactly correct, but going to the zero is causing it to age faster than not doing so. Still, doing this to a PR car is something the manufacturer is likely fine with.
My Niro EV 4 is 11 days old and I’m already having issues. The car often (3 times so far) refuses to move into gear. It seem it’s immobilised! I turn the car off and lock it then go back a few minutes later and it will start ok. Not good for a car that cost 43k
Do you run the car when it is connected to charger? Because I had the same issue as I asked. The solution is just press little bit longer the power button. (I don’t know do you still own the car?)
Waiting to see the same test on a BYD Atto 3. What was the effective range on a Full charge ? (Seen the video and still not sure) What percentage of the advertised range was attained ?
It looks to me that the car went into “zombie” mode - this normally clears after 10 mins. Kia are still investigating. A couple of times I have found that holding the key fob next to the start button causes the immobiliser light to extinguish, and then it works as normal
a known fault with the Niro EV zombie mode. the EV6 suffers the same, leaving for 15mins or foot on brake pedal and hold start button for 20 seconds car might turn off or turn it off and turn back on, should clear it.
any chance that you could also test new Renault Megane e-tech, please? got it on order, but 60kWh version is estimated to have cca 20mi less range than old Kona 64kWh. yet it costs cca £10k more. as usual your tests are great consumer advice, thanks!
Man, this was a real butt clencher! :D I actually have an older Niro and did run out of juice once, w 4% and GOM reporting 15km left. The problem was that i was going up a hill. Don't try this at home, kids!
This car seems to be very similar (at least in the UI and drive train) as my Kona, let me extrapolate few guesses about it. * You mention that the power limit by the gauge seemed to be like 3/4 of the power. However, at least in Kona, the gauge is not linear. The first ~50% of the power is when the needle points to the 3/4 of the gauge to the right and only the last two segments are the other 50% of power. This is what I get from comparing with the power consumption stats screen. Same goes for the regen part of the same gauge, it's not linear. * When driving the car, there's some 200-600W going into the „Electronics“ category in the power consumption screen. I suspect this is the whole 12V subsystem of the car (including lights, fans, pumps, …) and it is measured on the place where the power is taken from the traction battery to the 12V battery. That could be the same 400W of difference between what got from the EcoFlow and what went into the traction battery, as it probably wanted to top-up the 12V battery too when already plugged in. * I'm not sure exactly what was wrong with the key not present detection, but the instruction book said that if such thing happen, you might want to push the start button with the key instead of your thumb. Sounds like there's some emergency low-power short-distance detector directly inside that button in addition to the main one „anywhere inside the car“ which should work at least when the battery inside the key is low. That doesn't sound like being the case here, but maybe it would have helped too, as someone mentioned maybe the 12V battery in the car was low (could be that it wasn't recharging the 12V battery while in the turtle mode).
I actually had the same issue with the key, even though the battery was like on 40%. Luckily this happened at home so was able to take another key. Issue has not occurred again with the first key. Did not change key's battery. And the car is 2 months old, so would be weird that the 12volt battery is in bad shape
I am FC from Thailand, Now I do research in EV energy consumption. I saw you use the OBD Scanner to display the power information, can you please give me about the detail of this OBD Scanner? What brand or what car it can fully use. (I plan to collect data from MG EP 2022 but not sure OBD will work or not.) Thankyou.
Like your life isn't exciting enough....But watching your 0km tests makes me wonder if there should be a standard for a car's behavior at/around 0, maybe even for buffersizes below 0.
Because ICE engine consumption is more predictable and there is usually straight forward info in the manual about the fuel reserve in contrary to EV's.
I think the most important information here is and what Bjørn wants to show us is what happens before these cars reach 0%, or actually, before they stop completely. He has already shown that different car manufacturers can have wildly different approaches to this situation and if he wouldn't test it, no one would know.
These videos are way more informative than others on UA-cam which show what happens when batteries run out. They are usually clickbait, alarmist nonsense. This is helpful info for anyone who buys this car. The only thing missing is how to safely be towed.
What the heck is this thing?
Great video but yeah, that's why I missed too, how to safely be towed
As others have mentioned, the bricking at 8:50 was likely unrelated to the depleted battery. It was the dreaded zombie mode, that also affects EV6. It is said Kia is working on fix.
I get the same issue on my NIRO Ev at times when the climate control is running on the app and has not completed it's job.
I love watching these to know what happens if range is not enough to reach a charger. Kepp them going Bjorn!........Also my little story and I was inspired from watching these....
I decided to push my Kia E niro to reach a charging spot with amenities next to it. GOM showed 10 miles more than distance to charger. About 12 miles out, the turtle mode came up on my screen and the mileage display showed only three dashes, switching to the EV display, I saw it was at 6%. I slowed to follow a lorry and a tense few miles as stuck on a motorway and nowhere to turn off.
The mileage per percentage was getting less and kept dropping. Finally at 2% it reached the off ramp and I recouped half a mile! Finally we arrived with 1% left. I was super
We set the car charging, went to eat and when we came out, we had enough range to get home. All well.
My Ioniq5 shows the same 5% buffer below 0% displayed. I’ve only driven it down to 2% SOC BMS, not until it sotpped. I did run out once in my old Kia Soul and it died the same way, normal power, then suddenly just crawling speed, then it sotpped. Unfortunately, when that happened, I really was stranded (first EV, poor planning)
My feeling is that every vehicle, even if the engine won’t start or there isn’t enough power to run the EV drivetrain, it should always be able to shift to neutral. Some cars will not allow you to shift out of park if the vehicle won’t drive itself (EV or ICE)
Just something to point out, when you turn the car on, other things will turn on like coolant pumps, power steering pumps, fans, heaters, ancillary equipment etc hence why it only looks like it's charging at 1.8kw whilst pulling 2.2 from the charger
Yes, it was the zombie mode (I have the EV6).
There is a specific sequence, and if you press the Start with the brake pedal on and mode to D, in a fast sequence before the Ready warning, the "zombie mode" usually happens.
To resume, usually you press P, Start and Start again, waiting for the ready state before swapping to D. It's a combination more or less like this. I'm still trying to figure out exactly.
Master Bjørn, Thanks for doing these tests... It is really valuable to know how an ev behaves when the battery runs low, so you can recognize it, and do the right thing before it totally empties out...
A lot of people think, that running out of juice is worse with electric cars than ICE cars, but actually lot of the common rail diesel or direct injection gas cars takes a lot more time and skill to start again after they suck in air instead of diesel/gas.
Not to mention all the crap in the bottom of the tank, yes there's filters, but they frequently clog.
the thing is that with electric cars your milage is much more unpredictable as a function of weather, elevations, heating/cooling.
17km after 0% SOC. Thats good.
That 400W loss is probably 10% (210W) in the onboard charger's AC to DC conversion (pretty standard), and 190W to the DC-DC converter that's powering the 12V systems. Assume another 10% loss there and that's about 170W going to the computer, displays, fans, lighting, and whatever phones and chargers are plugged into the 12V outlets. Not terrible really.
Love these videos dude. I'm glad you made it back. Be well.
Bjorn are you getting more cautious with these? Abc always being cautious!
Bjorn, that symbol is the immobiliser not key detection. I know this because my brand new Niro EV3 does the same damn thing most mornings when it’s charged to 100%!! It’s booked in to Kia next week but Googling tells me this is a very common issue and MAY be related to low voltage from the 12v battery. Always carry a 12v battery boost… I’ve ordered one
Mine also did it one morning with 100% in the battery. Couldn’t put it in gear. I stepped out, locked the car, let it rest for an hour, then it worked.
@@LongEarthTradingCompany I believe that 15 minutes is the charm. It’s all over the Internet. Please fix it, Kia.
It’s also possibly related to preconditioning in the mornings being detected by the car as a possible attempt at someone trying to tamper with the car. Dumb system. Apparently not preconditioning on a freezing cold morning solves the problem. You just get into a freezing cold car with fogged windows. In 2022. Yes, that’s progress 🙄
@@garethdesborough7960 yeah, I did that too. But it has only happened once, of maybe 10 preconditionings so far.
@@garethdesborough7960 mine has done it without the preconditioning. I drove 15 miles, got out to go to the shops and in 10 mins it stopped working. Locked car, walked away to send a tweet and came back and unlocked the car. I originally locked the car with the key fob but unlocked it with door button. Locked again with key fob, came back in less than 5 mins and unlocked with key fob. Worked
Are you going to test ID5 again with drive to 0? I really think those videos are great, so it shows poeple what to expect when going to Zero and are moer relaxed or know when to really go charging.
Also i would love to see a series what happened on each of theses cars when you are on autosteer or travel assist and do not react (maybe because you got a heartattack or fell asleep. How save are the cars in brining you to a stop and//or call emergency.)
Hi Bjorn, I love these 0% videos as it's reassuring to know or have a good idea of what'll happen if an EV runs out of charge completely. Did you do the older e-Niro at all? I'm buying one this week and have been binging on all your old clips! 😂
Thanks for doing what most of us won't lol. But just in case it ever happened, at least I have an idea that I have a few km past 0%.
Looks like you got that zombie mode the Niro is plagued with.
If you get the car again if you hold the power button down for 10sec and boot the car up again, that should have got you up and running.
Very well done, as always... But please: clean the lenses!! You are always cleaning windscreen but not lenses!!| Remember to ABC always be cleaning (lenses...)
The front lens is in fact very clean. But the dust is in one of the inner lenses. Not easy to clean unless I send it to Canon service and pay lots of money (and meanwhile I don't have that camera to use...)
@@bjornnyland Awwwww this is really bad... You don't have a shop that does this kind of things? You can buy a new one and sell your...
The problem with this car is the battery run out quickly, the range is 285 miles but not enough for me ,im not happy because it cost every day 40 £ so if you don't drive much is the best but I drive a lot ,it take 1h and 20 min to 2 hours for fully charged not worth the wait , I didn't like to drive electric but don't have a choice , I know in the future they will bring technology more range and quick charge because always they bring technology slowly I know .
Few episodes ago you have said always bring ecoflow, now it is always bring two :D PS thank you for this video :)
I was testing a Niro (or Kona? whichever) at work one day: car sitting, sometimes plugging it to charge it a bit, key placed wherever, window open, occasionally door open. I had problems with it emptying the 12V battery in some situations. I'd be quite afraid of that happening when it runs below 0%.
When waiting, you should never turn OFF the car (or always START the car), and put in Park. Then the 12V wont die. (it's the same on the Hyundai EVs).
Good thumbnail That was a stressful watch. What with the sudden cut off, and all the bonging.
Carrots and grapes! and both Eco flow batteries! A must!😄😄😄
8:47 - Looks like BMS 0% is at 3.2V. I suspect that cut-off point is around 3.1v / 3.0v. For example in my ebike BMS cuts-off power to motor at 2.8V.
you had to try to push the button WITH the key.
Hey Bjorn, did you do an EV6 run until it SOTPs am still waiting patiently for the arrival of mine, was interested how it compares to the others :)
The location looks like windows wallpaper
The whole series is a scam. He films these in his garage.
Nah it's all done in the same studio they filmed the moon landings in.
To be honest- for me the point of running out of juice (actually watching someone do this) is to know what happens when the car stops. No point of doing the video when You stop just because You stop (imho of course)
Did you actually watch the series of videos? I don't think so.
ONCE you run out of battery, is there any mode in the car that allows you to move the car out of the road?, like a neutral position-?
Håper du tar en test på Ioniq 5 2023 modell også. Så får vi se hvordan det oppdaterte batteriet presterer og også hvordan den nye forvarmingen fungerer.
I think the 12v battery died a bit as the car complains about no key detected and that is typical for that car as on the old e niro it happens when the 12v is not powered by the big accu. It can happen already within a half hour
I understand why you make these videos - they are useful for people who think like they might hit 0% in the battery. What do the manufacturers think when they lend you these cars? I expect you will have caused some damage by doing this?
I suspect these PR cars are expected to take a lot of beating when being tested, that they are „sacrificed“ by the manufacturer for the purpose.
Also, hitting the 0 is something the car needs to handle without extensive damage, because it's something the user might do, repeatedly, while not breaking warranty conditions. Never reaching 0 is better for the battery, sure, but it's not like driving the car off the cliff or something.
He is not causing any damage! Cell voltage is really high (3.2V) even at so called 0%. According to samsung the lowest allowed voltage is 2.5V! Trust me, BMS will never allow to go that low! BMS would shut down car completely at 3.0V/2.8V to protect battery. Do your homework before saying anything in this topic.
@@ataksnajpera Well, from what I know, a full cycle of the battery is causing it more stress (more degradation) than two „half“ cycles around the middle. If you do such thing often (going to the user-zero or even the real stop zero), the battery will degrade faster then if you don't do it.
So, calling it „damage“ is probably not exactly correct, but going to the zero is causing it to age faster than not doing so. Still, doing this to a PR car is something the manufacturer is likely fine with.
@@michalvaner3167 3.2v is not a real zero percent. 2.8v by most bms is considered as zero percent.
My Niro EV 4 is 11 days old and I’m already having issues. The car often (3 times so far) refuses to move into gear. It seem it’s immobilised! I turn the car off and lock it then go back a few minutes later and it will start ok. Not good for a car that cost 43k
Do you run the car when it is connected to charger? Because I had the same issue as I asked. The solution is just press little bit longer the power button. (I don’t know do you still own the car?)
Please test the MG 4
I found out the hard way that my MG ZS doesn’t have a bottom buffer. D’OH!
Nice video 🙂
What hard- and software are you using to get the battery readings? Looks cool.
Car Scanner
Waiting to see the same test on a BYD Atto 3.
What was the effective range on a Full charge ? (Seen the video and still not sure)
What percentage of the advertised range was attained ?
Hello! When you make a Test for id.3 pro 58 kW( “0 miles test”)? Thank you!
It looks to me that the car went into “zombie” mode - this normally clears after 10 mins. Kia are still investigating. A couple of times I have found that holding the key fob next to the start button causes the immobiliser light to extinguish, and then it works as normal
a known fault with the Niro EV zombie mode. the EV6 suffers the same, leaving for 15mins or foot on brake pedal and hold start button for 20 seconds car might turn off or turn it off and turn back on, should clear it.
any chance that you could also test new Renault Megane e-tech, please?
got it on order, but 60kWh version is estimated to have cca 20mi less range than old Kona 64kWh. yet it costs cca £10k more.
as usual your tests are great consumer advice, thanks!
Ahhh yes the fine limp mode which has no warning but you feel it - terrible thing it is
I am guessing you got the zombe mode known from EV6 and Niro-EV :/ Should be fixed now according to Kia
Man, this was a real butt clencher! :D I actually have an older Niro and did run out of juice once, w 4% and GOM reporting 15km left. The problem was that i was going up a hill. Don't try this at home, kids!
Good to know that HUMMER is not ONLY UNIT that bricks itself
Can you make a video on MG4
Tack👍
This car seems to be very similar (at least in the UI and drive train) as my Kona, let me extrapolate few guesses about it.
* You mention that the power limit by the gauge seemed to be like 3/4 of the power. However, at least in Kona, the gauge is not linear. The first ~50% of the power is when the needle points to the 3/4 of the gauge to the right and only the last two segments are the other 50% of power. This is what I get from comparing with the power consumption stats screen. Same goes for the regen part of the same gauge, it's not linear.
* When driving the car, there's some 200-600W going into the „Electronics“ category in the power consumption screen. I suspect this is the whole 12V subsystem of the car (including lights, fans, pumps, …) and it is measured on the place where the power is taken from the traction battery to the 12V battery. That could be the same 400W of difference between what got from the EcoFlow and what went into the traction battery, as it probably wanted to top-up the 12V battery too when already plugged in.
* I'm not sure exactly what was wrong with the key not present detection, but the instruction book said that if such thing happen, you might want to push the start button with the key instead of your thumb. Sounds like there's some emergency low-power short-distance detector directly inside that button in addition to the main one „anywhere inside the car“ which should work at least when the battery inside the key is low. That doesn't sound like being the case here, but maybe it would have helped too, as someone mentioned maybe the 12V battery in the car was low (could be that it wasn't recharging the 12V battery while in the turtle mode).
I actually had the same issue with the key, even though the battery was like on 40%. Luckily this happened at home so was able to take another key. Issue has not occurred again with the first key. Did not change key's battery. And the car is 2 months old, so would be weird that the 12volt battery is in bad shape
Im wondering how efficient that charge lead your using is ?
It's very efficient since it barely heats up.
Had same thought, but worked better on Teslas, so lead is probably fine.
Bjorn please Test VW ID3 PRO
I am FC from Thailand, Now I do research in EV energy consumption. I saw you use the OBD Scanner to display the power information, can you please give me about the detail of this OBD Scanner? What brand or what car it can fully use. (I plan to collect data from MG EP 2022 but not sure OBD will work or not.) Thankyou.
I think he uses car scanner app. There are many different options for the obd tool.
Read the video description. He writes it there always.
Thankyou
did I get it right? was it possible to "D" with the charge cable still connected?
No
@@bjornnyland ok. That would be scary 😀
Like your life isn't exciting enough....But watching your 0km tests makes me wonder if there should be a standard for a car's behavior at/around 0, maybe even for buffersizes below 0.
Why would the car be capable of going into gear when battery is being charged? Car not bricked, just smart!😁
Battery was not being charged.
ABC... always bring contingency
:*
I don't get why car testers are obsessed with driving EV's till they die. They don't drive petrol and diesel engines till they die.
Because ICE engine consumption is more predictable and there is usually straight forward info in the manual about the fuel reserve in contrary to EV's.
How about you start watching this series? It's very useful and much appreciated by my viewers.
Because it's interesting to see exactly what happens.
I think the most important information here is and what Bjørn wants to show us is what happens before these cars reach 0%, or actually, before they stop completely. He has already shown that different car manufacturers can have wildly different approaches to this situation and if he wouldn't test it, no one would know.
@@Moolers nothing interesting about watching a car grind to halt.