This is a GREAT video! Your specs made all the difference! Thanks for posting! Bought a 1-1/2" 7/16" 20 yellow bolt from the Hillman display at Ace. Cut 1-3/4" smooth shank from a 5/16" bolt. Stuck it into hole. Sprayed a little PB Blaster. Threaded in the yellow bolt. Tightened. Pop! Impeller came right off.
Thanks for making this video as it's the only one out there. Nice job. What a pain of a repair. Some differences, I didn't have to take off the front wheels nor bar to remove black front chute, but it's probably helpful. I was able to simply tilt the red pan and remove the impeller in order to get the belt off/on. For anyone doing this, make sure you have the parts and the screw to remove the impeller. At most 3 hour job. I did my mine in segments and made a map of all the screws/bolts I removed. Thanks again. I bought the impeller screw remover for $20 and returned it. Nice job making one!
I just found a Craftsman Yard Vacuum in the trash tonight. While it's not self-propelled, I may need to pull the impeller off at some point, and this is just what I may need to make in the future! Great work!
After trying a gear puller on the impeller without success I looked on line and came upon your great video. Me=ade the tool in 10 mins. and had the impeller off in another 5 ins. Great info - THANKS
What a Masterfull idea, used the same technolgy on a chipper schreader. Amost bent the impeller in half with a huge three jaw puller. I did notice the two different threads, then it dawned on me there must be a different way. Used your very helpfull vidio and "presto" got the impeller off. Thank you so much.
My unit was an actual chipper Shredder not a vacumn. This video shows all the details. Unfortunately mine was 25 years old and the impeller was rusted onto the shaft. Solution was to heat the hub to red hot. Let cool over night. ( We had a frost overnight so a great heat cool.cycle. Then used the push pin system from this video to put pressure on the two pieces. With pressure on the hub I had a heavy wall pipe( 8inches long) that was the same size as the impeller hub outside diameter. Then I hit the pipe with a 5lb hammer a few times. The heat and overnight freeze broke down the rust and the hammer shock broke it loose so the impeller came.off easily.
If in a pinch, I used the 7/8 x 20 bolt with a separate 2inch extension you would use for drills, worked for me. Did NOT have to glue them together, just put the extension in then the 7/8s. Also, I was able to use a belt from Menards 3/8 x 33.1 Poly Kforce A-579932. $5 . Its a half inch bigger then OEM about, but the tensioner (two pully thing is it)on the lawn vac picks up the slack nicely.
Outstanding video. Great camera work. Very thorough explanation and fabrication. I was wondering how to get the impeller off when the time came to change the belt.
Good job. Maybe you could use a piece of threaded rod of 7/16-20 and turn down the excess thread to .250" diameter. Also, you might as well sharpen the blade while you have access to it.
I have the exact same model lawn vacuumed and was always curious how to get the impeller off. I really need to replace the chipper blades and it seems like getting at them from the top is difficult at best. Thanks for the great video, it helps a lot.
Great tool tip. Maybe put some JB Weld in the 14 inch hole to keep your pin attached. That way you won't be looking for the pin if you need again. Great idea!!
yep, that would work too. I ended up using a slightly oversized pin and I have a press fit into the bolt. It is not going to detach easily. Glad you appreciate the tool tip. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. THANKS!!!!
I think you should have spent more time on showing how you removed the lower metal shroud. Making the tool was great it saved me money so I didn't have to buy one. Removing the lower shroud was a real pain. I noticed that you didn't have to remove the rear wheels. I would have really liked if you had did that it would have saved me some time when I replaced my belt.
Have you done carb servicing on that? The float on mine does not sit level. I bought the correct Stens kit and replaced the float needle and seat, and the float STILL does not sit level. It's tilted away from the carb. Is this normal for this carb?
Thanks for the info on the tool! I made one and it worked great. One question...would you happen to have a photo showing where the control cables hook to the transmission? I've got mine apart and didn't take a photo of that during disassembly. 😒 Thanks!
Just bought this model used and was poking around when I saw this video. Personally - If I ever have to pull the impeller, I intend to just thread in a bolt to the impeller and use my slide hammer.
Excellent video YuDaMan, just what i was looking for. I am trying to get to the blade for replacement. Easily explained, nice job. thanks! Can you link where the repair manual is?
I used the details from the owner's manual. You can find them for free easily online or at Scribd. Here's a link to manual for one of the models www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiP_4KOprHrAhVL11kKHUGPDbMQFjAAegQIARAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fc.searspartsdirect.com%2Fmmh%2Flis_pdf%2FOWNM%2FL0090160.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3uMmAM9X-gcdh-VhLuJSlJ... they're all pretty similar. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help ME. THANKS!!
I have all the bolts out to separate the upper and lower metal halves of the deck. How do I get the lower one out while the transmission axel is in there? I see you were able to do it
Thanks for the great video. I'm think going to try a link belt. More expensive but should save me hours. Look for PowerTwist Plus V-Belt, 3L Profile, 3/8" Width.
Did you have to take the transmission off of the housing to remove the lower housing or just left it in there? I’m working on this problem with this particular vacuum.
I had to remove mine. It wasn't that difficult. Just a bunch more bolts to take out. Once all the bolts are out, you can slide it to one side and out of the holes. I saw another video where a guy notched the frame of the machine so the axle can drop through, but you don't have to do that.
Great video! When I went to torque the blade back down to 31 ft pounds it did not work though. I grabbed the impeller with one hand and tightened with the other and after it got so tight it felt like it wasn’t getting any tighter just spinning like it was stripped. But I took the bolt out and it was fine and it can tighten up to 25 foot pounds. I left it there, hopefully it’s ok.
That sounds concerning. Maybe the impeller is slipping around the crankshaft. I'd be really careful. You definitely want to try to re-tighten (PERHAPS after running a few minutes but that's UP TO YOU). It's a tapered shaft and the bolt is supposed to draw the impeller TIGHT onto the taper. I suppose your machine will vibrate like it's falling apart if the impeller loosens! BE CAREFUL. SOUNDS DANGEROUS. Thats a lot of flywheel inertial spinning really fast so the forces are TREMENDOUS, especially when in near failure mode! I personally would be inclined to gently tap on the impeller to get it seated further on the tapered crankshaft. Perhaps some experts can opine here.
YuDaMan yikes! I was thinking that was what was happening. The impeller isn’t loose or anything, the unit runs properly, but this has been bothering me. I’ll see if I can get it tighter.
If a 7/16" x 20 won't fit into the 3/8s inch shaft bolt hole why not just screw a long 7/16 x 20 in until it reaches the shaft, and force the impeller off?
It MIGHT work but I think you might damage the 3/8" threads and then you won't be able to securely attach the impeller. Of course you could clean up the threads if damaged or do something to protect the threads before you start cranking on the 7/16. Some impellers will be really tight and that crankshaft material is not super hard. You would not be happy if you damage the tapered shaft.
At 6:48 your first guess was correct. It's a ¼x20NC and not a #10x24NC. Nominal major diameter of a quarter inch bolt .250 in. Typically the bolts are undersized. Had the machine screw been a number 10, then your 7/16 bolt would have been more than double the diameter, i.e. 7/16 versus 3/16.
i used to have one was Craftsman branded as i wanted to repower it with a gas saving OHV honda clone 173cc from the Briggs quantum it had. as the quantum used more gas but ended up selling it i could not find any videos on a engine replacement on these Mtd units branded Craftsman, Cub Cadet, yardman, and Troy Bilt
If that happened to me I would drain oil and gas out of engine, flip the unit upside down, drill (if necessary) and tap the threads with the next larger size, clean shavings out of the hole, flood the hole with PENETRATING OIL, make a new tool to fit the new threads while it soaked, add more penetrating oil, let it soak overnight and try new tool next day.
I understand the impeller removal. It appeared there is a pulley on the top part of the impeller @ 8:14. Isn't this the pulley that the (wheel) drive belt goes on? Why do you need to remove the engine mounting bolts? Did I miss something?
I made the tool with a grade 5, 1/4 inch bolt for the bottom unthreaded part. I should have used a grade 8, as the bottom bolt section bent sideways and damaged some of my threads on the engine. Ugg. Maybe a 5/16 bolt would have been better choice if it would clear the threads. The tool did successfully remove the impeller, although I did need to use the impact gun to make it finally pop loose. (Impeller was rusted onto shaft)
There is only ONE blade to sharpen and it is on the mounted to the TOP side of the impeller with just 2 bolts. Don't confuse the impeller fan blades for cutting blades. they are NOT cutting blades. The only thing they touch or move is AIR. The owners manual shows how to remove it and you can easily sharpen it up with a file or grinding wheel.
YuDaMan There appear to be two free swinging blades attached to the impeller - are those what you’re talking about? Because there is also a blade in the chute that can be easily taken out and sharpened.
@@stevenclark4176 Nope. The chipper blade is on the OTHER side. Just look down into the square opening you jam your branches into. THAT is the side the SINGLE blade (probably less than 2" wide) is on. You are looking on the wrong side of the impeller. The blade you see in the chute IS THE BLADE.
@@stevenclark4176 It sounds like the two blades you are talking about are the flail blades. Some units have flail blades that are one piece, two per impeller, and others have flail blades which are three separate pieces. These flails swing out past the impeller and brake up the leaves. It also sounds like you have an access panel on your model unit which allows you to remove the chipper blade for sharpening. Maybe this access panel is on the top?
Bahhhh!! Everything i can find online is like yours. My impeller isn't threaded and i cant get this off! Nice work making one, i thought the exact same thing: "i can make that". Edit: it is threaded but according to the manual, mine has a shaft key. Can't access it or find how to. At my wit's end
I can't get the impeller off it is loose and slides back and forth but will not come off. Anyone else have this problem besides me. I have tried using pry bars but this thing will not come off the shaft.
I don't see a key notch in that shaft, and the shaft looks tapered. Impeller is held by friction. If that engine fails you can't just swap in a mower engine, like one from Harbor Freight.
I believe it. I would have tried this Pin method first if I knew about it. I just ended up using a large pulley puller from autozone (free rental) with a smaller bolt just like the pin he showed. Make sure the tool is on evenly or it can bend the outer part of the impeller. I had to replace the output shaft seal.
@@everybodysjonathan I used a tap to thread the hole in the impeller to a larger bolt size and started from scratch. Finally it came off. It was very difficult though.
This is a great video, but he skips showing how to get to the impeller. Watch this video first, ua-cam.com/video/JAkjC6DLyLc/v-deo.html It shows how to get the plastic intake housing off the bottom of the machine.
This is a GREAT video! Your specs made all the difference! Thanks for posting!
Bought a 1-1/2" 7/16" 20 yellow bolt from the Hillman display at Ace.
Cut 1-3/4" smooth shank from a 5/16" bolt. Stuck it into hole.
Sprayed a little PB Blaster. Threaded in the yellow bolt. Tightened. Pop! Impeller came right off.
That's exactly how to do it!
Thanks for making this video as it's the only one out there. Nice job. What a pain of a repair. Some differences, I didn't have to take off the front wheels nor bar to remove black front chute, but it's probably helpful. I was able to simply tilt the red pan and remove the impeller in order to get the belt off/on. For anyone doing this, make sure you have the parts and the screw to remove the impeller. At most 3 hour job. I did my mine in segments and made a map of all the screws/bolts I removed. Thanks again. I bought the impeller screw remover for $20 and returned it. Nice job making one!
I just found a Craftsman Yard Vacuum in the trash tonight. While it's not self-propelled, I may need to pull the impeller off at some point, and this is just what I may need to make in the future! Great work!
working on chipper/shredder, just the exact information I was ignorant about. Much thanks,, liked and subscribed.
After trying a gear puller on the impeller without success I looked on line and came upon your great video. Me=ade the tool in 10 mins. and had the impeller off in another 5 ins. Great info - THANKS
Rick: Glad it helped you. I would really appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help me. THANKS!!!!
@@YuDaMan All done!! Thanks again
What a Masterfull idea, used the same technolgy on a chipper schreader. Amost bent the impeller in half with a huge three jaw puller. I did notice the two different threads, then it dawned on me there must be a different way. Used your very helpfull vidio and "presto" got the impeller off. Thank you so much.
@@donaldstrishock3923 Be sure to LIKE and SUBSCRIBE. That would help me! Thanks
Liked and Subbed. This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. I thought the impeller was pinned and almost took a grinder to it.
Thanks for this.
Thanks for the sub and LIKE.
My unit was an actual chipper Shredder not a vacumn. This video shows all the details. Unfortunately mine was 25 years old and the impeller was rusted onto the shaft. Solution was to heat the hub to red hot. Let cool over night. ( We had a frost overnight so a great heat cool.cycle. Then used the push pin system from this video to put pressure on the two pieces. With pressure on the hub I had a heavy wall pipe( 8inches long) that was the same size as the impeller hub outside diameter. Then I hit the pipe with a 5lb hammer a few times. The heat and overnight freeze broke down the rust and the hammer shock broke it loose so the impeller came.off easily.
If in a pinch, I used the 7/8 x 20 bolt with a separate 2inch extension you would use for drills, worked for me. Did NOT have to glue them together, just put the extension in then the 7/8s.
Also, I was able to use a belt from Menards 3/8 x 33.1 Poly Kforce A-579932. $5 . Its a half inch bigger then OEM about, but the tensioner (two pully thing is it)on the lawn vac picks up the slack nicely.
Thanks. I don't need to remove the impeller in my MTD Vacuum yet. But this is good to know how to do this just in case.
Outstanding video. Great camera work. Very thorough explanation and fabrication. I was wondering how to get the impeller off when the time came to change the belt.
My chipper/Vac works well... My only issue is that the chipper blade required sharpening. Your video helped a lot. Thanks.
Yes I will copy much as you did & expoxy the 2 together for convenience,Sir good work..
Thanks for the teaching Sir
Good job. Maybe you could use a piece of threaded rod of 7/16-20 and turn down the excess thread to .250" diameter. Also, you might as well sharpen the blade while you have access to it.
I have the exact same model lawn vacuumed and was always curious how to get the impeller off. I really need to replace the chipper blades and it seems like getting at them from the top is difficult at best. Thanks for the great video, it helps a lot.
Appreciate you posting this...definitely saved me some time
A+
Great tool tip. Maybe put some JB Weld in the 14 inch hole to keep your pin attached. That way you won't be looking for the pin if you need again. Great idea!!
yep, that would work too. I ended up using a slightly oversized pin and I have a press fit into the bolt. It is not going to detach easily. Glad you appreciate the tool tip. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. THANKS!!!!
Perfect, just the information I needed to complete the job!! Thank You!!!
GREAT> Be sure to LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help ME. THANKS!
I think you should have spent more time on showing how you removed the lower metal shroud. Making the tool was great it saved me money so I didn't have to buy one. Removing the lower shroud was a real pain. I noticed that you didn't have to remove the rear wheels. I would have really liked if you had did that it would have saved me some time when I replaced my belt.
Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you! 😃
You are very welcome. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help me! THANKS!!!
Have you done carb servicing on that? The float on mine does not sit level. I bought the correct Stens kit and replaced the float needle and seat, and the float STILL does not sit level. It's tilted away from the carb. Is this normal for this carb?
Thanks for the info on the tool! I made one and it worked great. One question...would you happen to have a photo showing where the control cables hook to the transmission? I've got mine apart and didn't take a photo of that during disassembly. 😒 Thanks!
sorry .... no longer have the machine or need for it
oxy act torch behind impeller works like magic also, note to youtubers: if these are slightly off balance, major engine damage quickly.
Enjoyed the video, made life easier for me. Thank you.
Just bought this model used and was poking around when I saw this video. Personally - If I ever have to pull the impeller, I intend to just thread in a bolt to the impeller and use my slide hammer.
That's a Great tip! You're lucky to have a slide hammer. That's not a tool most will have.
Excellent video YuDaMan, just what i was looking for. I am trying to get to the blade for replacement. Easily explained, nice job. thanks!
Can you link where the repair manual is?
I used the details from the owner's manual. You can find them for free easily online or at Scribd. Here's a link to manual for one of the models www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiP_4KOprHrAhVL11kKHUGPDbMQFjAAegQIARAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fc.searspartsdirect.com%2Fmmh%2Flis_pdf%2FOWNM%2FL0090160.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3uMmAM9X-gcdh-VhLuJSlJ... they're all pretty similar. I'd appreciate a LIKE and a SUBSCRIBE. That would really help ME. THANKS!!
I have all the bolts out to separate the upper and lower metal halves of the deck. How do I get the lower one out while the transmission axel is in there? I see you were able to do it
Thanks for the great video. I'm think going to try a link belt. More expensive but should save me hours. Look for PowerTwist Plus V-Belt, 3L Profile, 3/8" Width.
Did you have to take the transmission off of the housing to remove the lower housing or just left it in there? I’m working on this problem with this particular vacuum.
This project was quite awhile ago. But I don't RECALL having to remove the transmission. Good luck.
I had to remove mine. It wasn't that difficult. Just a bunch more bolts to take out. Once all the bolts are out, you can slide it to one side and out of the holes. I saw another video where a guy notched the frame of the machine so the axle can drop through, but you don't have to do that.
Great video! When I went to torque the blade back down to 31 ft pounds it did not work though. I grabbed the impeller with one hand and tightened with the other and after it got so tight it felt like it wasn’t getting any tighter just spinning like it was stripped. But I took the bolt out and it was fine and it can tighten up to 25 foot pounds. I left it there, hopefully it’s ok.
That sounds concerning. Maybe the impeller is slipping around the crankshaft. I'd be really careful. You definitely want to try to re-tighten (PERHAPS after running a few minutes but that's UP TO YOU). It's a tapered shaft and the bolt is supposed to draw the impeller TIGHT onto the taper. I suppose your machine will vibrate like it's falling apart if the impeller loosens! BE CAREFUL. SOUNDS DANGEROUS. Thats a lot of flywheel inertial spinning really fast so the forces are TREMENDOUS, especially when in near failure mode! I personally would be inclined to gently tap on the impeller to get it seated further on the tapered crankshaft. Perhaps some experts can opine here.
YuDaMan yikes! I was thinking that was what was happening. The impeller isn’t loose or anything, the unit runs properly, but this has been bothering me. I’ll see if I can get it tighter.
@@YuDaMan No expert here, but I would be concerned as well. Is the engine crank turning maybe, not allowing the final torque?
wish you had shown the whole job but thanks for posting the part tha tyou did.
If a 7/16" x 20 won't fit into the 3/8s inch shaft bolt hole why not just screw a long 7/16 x 20 in until it reaches the shaft, and force the impeller off?
It MIGHT work but I think you might damage the 3/8" threads and then you won't be able to securely attach the impeller. Of course you could clean up the threads if damaged or do something to protect the threads before you start cranking on the 7/16. Some impellers will be really tight and that crankshaft material is not super hard. You would not be happy if you damage the tapered shaft.
At 6:48 your first guess was correct. It's a ¼x20NC and not a #10x24NC. Nominal major diameter of a quarter inch bolt .250 in. Typically the bolts are undersized. Had the machine screw been a number 10, then your 7/16 bolt would have been more than double the diameter, i.e. 7/16 versus 3/16.
i used to have one was Craftsman branded as i wanted to repower it with a gas saving OHV honda clone 173cc from the Briggs quantum it had. as the quantum used more gas but ended up selling it i could not find any videos on a engine replacement on these Mtd units branded Craftsman, Cub Cadet, yardman, and Troy Bilt
i need to re-engine mine and am looking for videos as well.
Any tips what to do after the thread on the impeller strips?
If that happened to me I would drain oil and gas out of engine, flip the unit upside down, drill (if necessary) and tap the threads with the next larger size, clean shavings out of the hole, flood the hole with PENETRATING OIL, make a new tool to fit the new threads while it soaked, add more penetrating oil, let it soak overnight and try new tool next day.
Kevin Jokipii re tap to the next thread size larger , easy to do
What is the size of the belt. My unit ( i bought used ) didnt have a belt and when I look it up, several sizes come up in the search
My belt was a MTD 954-0369 (replaces 754-0369). I BELIEVE this is 3/8 x 32-1/2. YOU can help ME a LIKE and a SUBSCRIPTION if this helps YOU. THANKS!
Great video. Thanks.
Someone just gave me one . Not self propelled but runs and functions good .
I understand the impeller removal. It appeared there is a pulley on the top part of the impeller @ 8:14. Isn't this the pulley that the (wheel) drive belt goes on? Why do you need to remove the engine mounting bolts? Did I miss something?
some people are able to replace the belt without removing the engine mounting bolts. Not easy but it can be done.
Nice job !
So when you removed the impeller off the crankshaft, what did you find? Was the engine crankshaft straight or was it tapered?
Tapered
@@YuDaMan Thank you sir.
I made the tool with a grade 5, 1/4 inch bolt for the bottom unthreaded part. I should have used a grade 8, as the bottom bolt section bent sideways and damaged some of my threads on the engine. Ugg. Maybe a 5/16 bolt would have been better choice if it would clear the threads. The tool did successfully remove the impeller, although I did need to use the impact gun to make it finally pop loose. (Impeller was rusted onto shaft)
Sorry to hear that. did you use any penetrating oil when you realized the impeller wasn't budging?
The fuck how to get the plastic cover off? I had mine completely unscrewed but it was only moving about 5mm and then got stuck. I couldn't get it out
Thank you that was great
Can you run the vacuum without the impeller?
The answer is NO. No impeller = no vacuum. The impeller is what moves the air and creates vacuum.
Man, don't mess up that impeller! They cost about $380.00 to replace if you can find one. Thanks for the Vid! :)
Do you know the shaft size of the engine?
nope but i'm pretty sure it is a tapered shaft.
Hey, does anyone have any tips on how to sharpen the blades on this thing? I have an older model and just doesn’t shred the way it should. Thanks!
There is only ONE blade to sharpen and it is on the mounted to the TOP side of the impeller with just 2 bolts. Don't confuse the impeller fan blades for cutting blades. they are NOT cutting blades. The only thing they touch or move is AIR. The owners manual shows how to remove it and you can easily sharpen it up with a file or grinding wheel.
YuDaMan There appear to be two free swinging blades attached to the impeller - are those what you’re talking about? Because there is also a blade in the chute that can be easily taken out and sharpened.
@@stevenclark4176 Nope. The chipper blade is on the OTHER side. Just look down into the square opening you jam your branches into. THAT is the side the SINGLE blade (probably less than 2" wide) is on. You are looking on the wrong side of the impeller. The blade you see in the chute IS THE BLADE.
@@stevenclark4176 It sounds like the two blades you are talking about are the flail blades. Some units have flail blades that are one piece, two per impeller, and others have flail blades which are three separate pieces. These flails swing out past the impeller and brake up the leaves. It also sounds like you have an access panel on your model unit which allows you to remove the chipper blade for sharpening. Maybe this access panel is on the top?
Jeff Dawes I will take another look. There are two blades that swing free, flail blades. I can unscrew the bottom and access from there. Thanks!
Bahhhh!! Everything i can find online is like yours. My impeller isn't threaded and i cant get this off!
Nice work making one, i thought the exact same thing: "i can make that".
Edit: it is threaded but according to the manual, mine has a shaft key. Can't access it or find how to. At my wit's end
I can't get the impeller off it is loose and slides back and forth but will not come off. Anyone else have this problem besides me. I have tried using pry bars but this thing will not come off the shaft.
I used a pry bar and the impeller came off rather easily. I just kept rotating the impeller and applying pressure around the circumference.
I would be leary of snapping the edges or blades of the impeller. Glad it worked though.
I did the same thing before I saw this video. Didn't even notice the screw threads in the impeller for a puller.
I don't see a key notch in that shaft, and the shaft looks tapered. Impeller is held by friction.
If that engine fails you can't just swap in a mower engine, like one from Harbor Freight.
yep, press fit onto tapered shaft ... no keyway
If it's good enough for Jeff Goldblum...
Can you send me this tool?
unfortunately I can't. I loaned the tool to someone and never got it back!
@@YuDaMan well that's unfortunate, but still a great help to get that belt changed. I may consider making my own.
Didn't work for me. Just ended up with the threads stripped out of the impeller.
I believe it. I would have tried this Pin method first if I knew about it. I just ended up using a large pulley puller from autozone (free rental) with a smaller bolt just like the pin he showed. Make sure the tool is on evenly or it can bend the outer part of the impeller. I had to replace the output shaft seal.
@@everybodysjonathan I used a tap to thread the hole in the impeller to a larger bolt size and started from scratch. Finally it came off. It was very difficult though.
This is a great video, but he skips showing how to get to the impeller. Watch this video first, ua-cam.com/video/JAkjC6DLyLc/v-deo.html It shows how to get the plastic intake housing off the bottom of the machine.