I run the square to spreadbore adaptor. Anyone who does this, be sure the check to see if the supplied screws go into the intake far enough to provide the proper clamping force. I found two screws that bottomed out before providing just enough clamping force on the adapter itself.
I got an AVS2 for my 71 Corvette. I shut it off somewhere, it starts right up, I pull out and it just about dies. I found the bore for the meter rod piston on one side scored. Stuck up with covers off
My AVS2 on my 440 diesels everytime i shut her down. I put my old junk carb on and the dieseling goes away.. i want to run the AVS2 because of how smooth and nice it runs. However I cannot live with the dieseling. Any tips??
Your GMC is look'n great.. Some additional details certainly I never thought of in this video, thanx for sharing. Replacing an older 1406 with a 1902 AVS2 for my jeep's Chevy 383 mild cam, operate 4500 rpm and below, will begin with 12-13 degrees of timing, but a real torque monster, love it. Attempting to squeeze a little more fuel mileage from "old blue". We'll see, not expecting much change to fuel mileage, to be honest, but wanted to check out the newer AVS2 and it's upgrades. Will be adding an AFR soon as well.
You could see some MPG from that change. For what you’re doing, the 500 sounds like it will be sized better. I’m sure you’ll have much better throttle response. Once you get it all together and tuned, please tell me how it’s responding! The GMC has tried to kill me over the past couple weeks. 😂 Still have a bunch to do to get it back on the road!
I'm in the process of optimizing an AVS2 650 on a 302 ford, 1969 mustang, C4, 3500 stall, 3.55 gears with an A/F meter. It has a 10:1 compression, TFS TW heads, cam is 224/232 dur at 0.050, Perf RPM intake, 1 5/8 headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, mechanical pump at 5 PSI. Idle is ~12" of vacuum at ~850 RPM, using pink springs(7"), accel pump is in the middle slot, timing is set to 16-32 degrees all in by 3000, 8 degrees of vac. advance. The rods were changed to 73-42 (2 stages leaner on cruise and 1 stage leaner on power). Idle & Cruise A/F is 13.5-14.5 and power is around 11-12. When letting off on the throttle to stop the mixture goes lean and on a longer downhill stretch it will hit 17:1. The vacuum goes up around 20" when off the throttle so the rods will be right down and the timing has the max advance. With the 70-37 rod the A/F doesn't go above 16, when off the throttle, but when in cruise mode the A/F goes into the 12s and power mode goes into the 10s. Is a 17:1 A/F mixture an issue or is it fine cause there is no load?
@@MuscleCarSolutions That helps, keeping the A/F in the 15 range when completely off the throttle. I have 2 additional issues, on first tip in there is a hesitation with the A/F going up to ~16.5 and when using a lot of throttle the A/F goes down to around 10. For the hesitation changing the step up springs from orange to pink to silver and putting the accelerator pump in the top hole has reduced the effect but hasn't eliminated it. Is the next step to add a larger accelerator pump jet? or larger accelerator pump? Does the Air valve secondary matter at this low of RPM? I have reduced tension on the air valve due to the rich condition when leaning on the throttle. For the rich condition, is there an easy way to know if the carb needs smaller secondary jets vs adjusting the air valve or both? something else? Thank you!
Been a subscriber for a while and finally have an issue I can't find an answer to. I swapped from a 2bbl to a 1406 and now it wont rev past 3000. Throttle isn't binding and cable is correct length. Regulator shows 5.5 lbs consistent up to the 3000. I know it's a longshot, but any ideas? The only change I made was the carb, and all I've done to the carb is basic set up.
I finally got a chance to put that 600 Holley i got from you on to my 74 Malibu. It came to me with a 600 Edelbrock and I just got tired of messing with it and replaced it with the Holley.
Never. If they are that worn, it’s cheaper to huck it and get another core or carb. Way too messy to take one apart at that level, machine it, size it and attempt to put it back together. For the time you’d have invested, it’s well worth looking for another one.
Really enjoying the wealth of information and presentation style of your channel! Quick question if you have the time: why is my carburetor’d car hard to start after being driven and then sitting for ten minutes or so. I had a carb on my 1980 Z28 in high school and don’t remember this ever being a problem. Putting together an 87 Formula that had a carb on the 305 before I pulled it for a 350 and now I’m experiencing this issue. Thanks!
Ethanol! Doesn’t matter what flavor carburetor you have, the ethanol in the fuel is awful. I’m just a little above sea level and here ethanol boils around 175 degrees. The higher you go in elevation, the higher that number goes, but not by much. So when you drive for a few and hop out to get a coke or grab some lunch and come back 20 minutes later, the fuel has been sitting in the carb boiling. The hard starting is flooding of that fuel into the engine. I really appreciate you watching!
Thanks for the video! I've got an unsolved problem. Just bought this truck with a 360 FE engine, a 2V intake manifold, an adapter, and a 4V Edelbrock carb. Truck has sat quite a bit and idles pretty crappy. If I put my hands over the carburetor and restrict the airflow some, the idle speeds up and smooths out. I'm thinking vacuum leak, but if so it's hard to find. We replaced the manifold-to-adapter and adapter-to-carb gaskets - no difference. I can disconnect the brake booster and hold my finger over the hose - no difference. We tried spraying carb cleaner in various spots, but the vapors would speed up the engine a little no matter where we sprayed. We didn't learn anything useful. Do you agree that it sounds like a vacuum leak? Or could it be something gummed up in the Edelbrock carb that sat too much? Thanks!
Yes, it’s a vacuum leak. Pretty common when using a spread bore adapter. There’s so many variants of carburetor and manifold from the factory it’s impossible to make an adapter for them all. So occasionally you’ll need another inexpensive plate to help seal it up. Edelbrock 2731 or 2732 should get you fixed up. The carburetor cleanliness is a separate issue.
@@MuscleCarSolutions You were right Sir. Went "all the way" and installed a new Edelbrock 2105 square-bore intake manifold. Solved every problem. Thanks!
Great video. Love your input on Edelbrock. Great info. A question: After I park my 67 poncho Lemans. Edelbrock 600 carb. Performer dual plane intake. Stock 326. I get a strong gas smell.
I did a video on heat soak that talks about that. Unfortunately the ethanol additive in fuels today is a terrible thing in many way. What you’re experiencing is likely one of those. Love the Poncho motors! Always has been a favorite of mine.
Another excellent video!! Do you do any rebuilds or tutorials on any of the holley series? Would love to see one on the truck avenger/street avenger models!! Thank you again for the awesome content! Cheers 🤘
I hadn’t planned on it. There were so many Holley rebuild videos out that I decided to concentrate on the Edelbrock that had few. I’ll take a look at it again and see if there’s an opportunity there.
Is there a choke pulloff adjustment on the choke piston/housing on Edelbrock carbs? This would be similiar to an older holley where the choke will be completly closed after setting, but then immediately open partially when the engine has started and has vaccum, and then begin to fully open through the heating element. Or is the only adjustment just the heating element tension?
Your comment made me think if I should do another video on the choke mechanism and cover the vacuum source and the piston operation inside the choke body. Is it adjustable? No. But it made me think of a way to add a slight adjustment to it. Don’t think it would be possible, but something to tear into sometime.
@@MuscleCarSolutions id love that. Ive seen conflicting articles that say it can/cannot be done (of course some of these are pretty dated). Its odd to me that edelbrock never incorporated a separate choke pull off device onto their performer series carbs as they market them as a good daily driving carb, which they are in my opinion.
@@justinpontarelli5527 cost. The design is simple and works extremely effectively. I’m not sure what more there would be to gain from it. Maybe the choke operation would get quicker? Or just be that much leaner during warm up? It’s got me thinking though and I appreciate your comments!
@@MuscleCarSolutions to me it gives you the benefit of being able to cold start with 100% closed choke, this almost gaurentees instant/easy starts (even with a very lean mix). Its probably more of a benefit at colder temperatures (i live in South Dakota). But its nice to have the failsafe of at least a partially opened choke incase the element, or your power source is incorrectly operating. The latter scenario probably being more rare.
You mention propper cfm carb for size engine. Im correct in thinking an edelbrock 600 performer should be tunable for a 302 with a pretty free flowing exhaust right?
I have a 1982 Ford brougham RV with 460 Ford with a Edelbrock 1411 iv tryed timing at 12° and 8° is stock both won't run but 10° dose but it won't idle y is that or is just flooding out I have a pressure regulator set at 4 PSI brand new mechanical fuel pump and I still can't get my motor to start I have a new plugs new wires new distributor new cap and rotor new ignition coil could you help me out by chance my timing chains in good condition I'm stumped I've been trying to work on this thing for a month-and-a-half and I don't know what else to check
Start eliminating possible issues. SAFELY Disconnect the fuel line from our side of the fuel pump and crank to see you’re getting a lot of fuel. If you’re getting a ton of fuel, then hook up the regulator but disconnect the carb and make sure the fuel is flowing through the regulator. Next pop the top off the carb and inspect the needle and seats, float height, no garbage in the bowls. Once you have eliminated the fuel system, then move on to the ignition. All basic troubleshooting. Eventually you’ll find the issue(s).
Getting there. Have some engine and rear light wiring to finish, get the trans wired up, a bunch of odds and ends AND finish the exhaust. But we’re getting closer!
What kind of carburetor would be good for a Chevy 350 that's been bored 60 over officially making it 388, would a 600 CFM carburetor work just fine or would I need to drop down to 500
Oh there’s a bit more to it that just that. This video will help you find the right size. Let me know if you have any questions after you watch it. ua-cam.com/video/Hy4s9B43YM0/v-deo.html
@@Wahayawolf73 I promise you I’m trying to help! That video explains how to choose a size and the math to get there. I can’t type it all out in a message here. Go watch it and see what you come up with. I’d be happy to discuss it with you after you check out what you’ll need to use to calculate what carb the engine will want.
Thank you. Just a thought on a future video, on how to tune an Edelbrock vs Holley on a stock engine (18 inches of vacuum @ idle) vs a modified engine (8 inches of vacuum @ idle), covering afr/timing/exhaust manifold choice, etc.. Love your videos.
That’s going to be difficult as I don’t work on stock engines that often, but I do understand what you’re asking about. I’ve got a bunch of carb tuning videos planned for the GMC with the AVS2, the new Edelbrock VRS and standard 4150 carburetors. Lots of do over the next few months for sure! Stay tuned and thanks for the suggestions!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Hey Chief I have a AVS2 650 on a modified 350 Edelbrock Performer Rpm Top end 195cc 64cc the camshaft is a 226/232 535/535 110+4adv hydraulic roller ...is the AVS2 650 enough I figure I'm around 450-460hp will it support that?
@@richardclary6267 cam specs are decent. Guessing with that LSA it will probably put to 6200-6500. So if you’re driving it like that, yeah the 650 will be a great choice. Really all depends on what you’re going to use it for.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I saw what I wrote it was a Performer Rpm crate engine it's 392 cu inches now..should have said that called Edelbrock and talked to them the AVS2 is good to 425hp straight from the tech there's a reason the 350 has an 800
@@MuscleCarSolutions so would you get the AVS2 800 or a Holley 780 4160 I have videos of the car and honestly it would mean a ton if you left a comment..anyway I can't Thank You enough for responding
forgot to tell you I had to return my Brand new EDELBROCK AVS2 because it would not work correctly no matter how you tuned it. So sad. Going to buy a holley next
@@hybridmusclegarage4590 what did you adjust? I’m going to assume since you’ve seen a lot of my content you know about the calibration kit and how to read the tuning chart. Plus the importance of a regulator and the range the pressure should fall into. Curious on the steps you took.
I run the square to spreadbore adaptor. Anyone who does this, be sure the check to see if the supplied screws go into the intake far enough to provide the proper clamping force. I found two screws that bottomed out before providing just enough clamping force on the adapter itself.
I got an AVS2 for my 71 Corvette. I shut it off somewhere, it starts right up, I pull out and it just about dies. I found the bore for the meter rod piston on one side scored. Stuck up with covers off
Great videos thnx for sharing,i have a 1406 edelbrock That pushes gas up to top every time i give gas.
I answered your question that you left in another video………
My AVS2 on my 440 diesels everytime i shut her down. I put my old junk carb on and the dieseling goes away.. i want to run the AVS2 because of how smooth and nice it runs. However I cannot live with the dieseling. Any tips??
do you have a video on ruf idle??
Your GMC is look'n great..
Some additional details certainly I never thought of in this video, thanx for sharing.
Replacing an older 1406 with a 1902 AVS2 for my jeep's Chevy 383 mild cam, operate 4500 rpm and below, will begin with 12-13 degrees of timing, but a real torque monster, love it.
Attempting to squeeze a little more fuel mileage from "old blue". We'll see, not expecting much change to fuel mileage, to be honest, but wanted to check out the newer AVS2 and it's upgrades.
Will be adding an AFR soon as well.
You could see some MPG from that change. For what you’re doing, the 500 sounds like it will be sized better. I’m sure you’ll have much better throttle response. Once you get it all together and tuned, please tell me how it’s responding! The GMC has tried to kill me over the past couple weeks. 😂 Still have a bunch to do to get it back on the road!
What metal fuel filters do you usually run?
Always see this as a topic of concern, how many glass, plastic or metal types & micron's etc.
Great channel. Very informative
I am learning a lot Great stuff
Thank you!
I'm in the process of optimizing an AVS2 650 on a 302 ford, 1969 mustang, C4, 3500 stall, 3.55 gears with an A/F meter. It has a 10:1 compression, TFS TW heads, cam is 224/232 dur at 0.050, Perf RPM intake, 1 5/8 headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, mechanical pump at 5 PSI. Idle is ~12" of vacuum at ~850 RPM, using pink springs(7"), accel pump is in the middle slot, timing is set to 16-32 degrees all in by 3000, 8 degrees of vac. advance. The rods were changed to 73-42 (2 stages leaner on cruise and 1 stage leaner on power). Idle & Cruise A/F is 13.5-14.5 and power is around 11-12. When letting off on the throttle to stop the mixture goes lean and on a longer downhill stretch it will hit 17:1. The vacuum goes up around 20" when off the throttle so the rods will be right down and the timing has the max advance. With the 70-37 rod the A/F doesn't go above 16, when off the throttle, but when in cruise mode the A/F goes into the 12s and power mode goes into the 10s. Is a 17:1 A/F mixture an issue or is it fine cause there is no load?
Try the silver spring and see if it gets better or worse.
@@MuscleCarSolutions That helps, keeping the A/F in the 15 range when completely off the throttle. I have 2 additional issues, on first tip in there is a hesitation with the A/F going up to ~16.5 and when using a lot of throttle the A/F goes down to around 10. For the hesitation changing the step up springs from orange to pink to silver and putting the accelerator pump in the top hole has reduced the effect but hasn't eliminated it. Is the next step to add a larger accelerator pump jet? or larger accelerator pump? Does the Air valve secondary matter at this low of RPM? I have reduced tension on the air valve due to the rich condition when leaning on the throttle. For the rich condition, is there an easy way to know if the carb needs smaller secondary jets vs adjusting the air valve or both? something else? Thank you!
Been a subscriber for a while and finally have an issue I can't find an answer to. I swapped from a 2bbl to a 1406 and now it wont rev past 3000. Throttle isn't binding and cable is correct length. Regulator shows 5.5 lbs consistent up to the 3000. I know it's a longshot, but any ideas? The only change I made was the carb, and all I've done to the carb is basic set up.
when it hits around 3k, it doesn't sound strained or breaking up. almost like a rev limiter just wont let it past.
I finally got a chance to put that 600 Holley i got from you on to my 74 Malibu. It came to me with a 600 Edelbrock and I just got tired of messing with it and replaced it with the Holley.
The 73-77 Malibus don’t get enough love! Great cars no doubt.
I was always told to use glass with sandpaper and use a crazy 8 pattern when sanding. File let's rough surface.
when are you going to show us how to do shaft bushings
Never. If they are that worn, it’s cheaper to huck it and get another core or carb. Way too messy to take one apart at that level, machine it, size it and attempt to put it back together. For the time you’d have invested, it’s well worth looking for another one.
Awesome class professor. 🍎😊
Thanks buddy!
Really enjoying the wealth of information and presentation style of your channel! Quick question if you have the time: why is my carburetor’d car hard to start after being driven and then sitting for ten minutes or so. I had a carb on my 1980 Z28 in high school and don’t remember this ever being a problem. Putting together an 87 Formula that had a carb on the 305 before I pulled it for a 350 and now I’m experiencing this issue. Thanks!
Ethanol! Doesn’t matter what flavor carburetor you have, the ethanol in the fuel is awful. I’m just a little above sea level and here ethanol boils around 175 degrees. The higher you go in elevation, the higher that number goes, but not by much. So when you drive for a few and hop out to get a coke or grab some lunch and come back 20 minutes later, the fuel has been sitting in the carb boiling. The hard starting is flooding of that fuel into the engine. I really appreciate you watching!
I have a video on heat soak that covers this pretty throughly if you’re interested in knowing more.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you so much for the response!
@@OsoBlanco17 anytime!
Thanks for the video! I've got an unsolved problem. Just bought this truck with a 360 FE engine, a 2V intake manifold, an adapter, and a 4V Edelbrock carb. Truck has sat quite a bit and idles pretty crappy. If I put my hands over the carburetor and restrict the airflow some, the idle speeds up and smooths out. I'm thinking vacuum leak, but if so it's hard to find. We replaced the manifold-to-adapter and adapter-to-carb gaskets - no difference. I can disconnect the brake booster and hold my finger over the hose - no difference. We tried spraying carb cleaner in various spots, but the vapors would speed up the engine a little no matter where we sprayed. We didn't learn anything useful.
Do you agree that it sounds like a vacuum leak? Or could it be something gummed up in the Edelbrock carb that sat too much? Thanks!
Yes, it’s a vacuum leak. Pretty common when using a spread bore adapter. There’s so many variants of carburetor and manifold from the factory it’s impossible to make an adapter for them all. So occasionally you’ll need another inexpensive plate to help seal it up. Edelbrock 2731 or 2732 should get you fixed up. The carburetor cleanliness is a separate issue.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks, we'll redouble our efforts to find and fix the leak!
@@MuscleCarSolutions You were right Sir. Went "all the way" and installed a new Edelbrock 2105 square-bore intake manifold. Solved every problem. Thanks!
When manifold vaccum hose is set to transmission do you also need hose from timed vaccum to distributor ?
Transmission modulator goes to full manifold vacuum on the intake or carburetor.
Great video. Love your input on Edelbrock. Great info. A question: After I park my 67 poncho Lemans. Edelbrock 600 carb. Performer dual plane intake. Stock 326. I get a strong gas smell.
I did a video on heat soak that talks about that. Unfortunately the ethanol additive in fuels today is a terrible thing in many way. What you’re experiencing is likely one of those. Love the Poncho motors! Always has been a favorite of mine.
Another excellent video!! Do you do any rebuilds or tutorials on any of the holley series? Would love to see one on the truck avenger/street avenger models!! Thank you again for the awesome content! Cheers 🤘
I hadn’t planned on it. There were so many Holley rebuild videos out that I decided to concentrate on the Edelbrock that had few. I’ll take a look at it again and see if there’s an opportunity there.
I have a 89 5.0 roller motor with a ford Motorsport 303 cam what size Edelbrock carb do you recommend ( 67 Mustang c4 stock 3.0 gear)
Check out the video I did on choosing the right size carb. Need a bit more information to make that selection.
Is there a choke pulloff adjustment on the choke piston/housing on Edelbrock carbs? This would be similiar to an older holley where the choke will be completly closed after setting, but then immediately open partially when the engine has started and has vaccum, and then begin to fully open through the heating element. Or is the only adjustment just the heating element tension?
Your comment made me think if I should do another video on the choke mechanism and cover the vacuum source and the piston operation inside the choke body. Is it adjustable? No. But it made me think of a way to add a slight adjustment to it. Don’t think it would be possible, but something to tear into sometime.
@@MuscleCarSolutions id love that. Ive seen conflicting articles that say it can/cannot be done (of course some of these are pretty dated). Its odd to me that edelbrock never incorporated a separate choke pull off device onto their performer series carbs as they market them as a good daily driving carb, which they are in my opinion.
@@justinpontarelli5527 cost. The design is simple and works extremely effectively. I’m not sure what more there would be to gain from it. Maybe the choke operation would get quicker? Or just be that much leaner during warm up? It’s got me thinking though and I appreciate your comments!
@@MuscleCarSolutions to me it gives you the benefit of being able to cold start with 100% closed choke, this almost gaurentees instant/easy starts (even with a very lean mix). Its probably more of a benefit at colder temperatures (i live in South Dakota). But its nice to have the failsafe of at least a partially opened choke incase the element, or your power source is incorrectly operating. The latter scenario probably being more rare.
You mention propper cfm carb for size engine. Im correct in thinking an edelbrock 600 performer should be tunable for a 302 with a pretty free flowing exhaust right?
Maybe. Probably not. I have a video on how to choose the proper size carburetor. Will explain the formula for deciding.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsin your math equation , what is the rpm value based on, operating range ( cruise) or redline rpm?
I have a 1982 Ford brougham RV with 460 Ford with a Edelbrock 1411 iv tryed timing at 12° and 8° is stock both won't run but 10° dose but it won't idle y is that or is just flooding out I have a pressure regulator set at 4 PSI brand new mechanical fuel pump and I still can't get my motor to start I have a new plugs new wires new distributor new cap and rotor new ignition coil could you help me out by chance my timing chains in good condition I'm stumped I've been trying to work on this thing for a month-and-a-half and I don't know what else to check
Start eliminating possible issues. SAFELY Disconnect the fuel line from our side of the fuel pump and crank to see you’re getting a lot of fuel. If you’re getting a ton of fuel, then hook up the regulator but disconnect the carb and make sure the fuel is flowing through the regulator. Next pop the top off the carb and inspect the needle and seats, float height, no garbage in the bowls. Once you have eliminated the fuel system, then move on to the ignition. All basic troubleshooting. Eventually you’ll find the issue(s).
Looks like the GMC is turn key?
Getting there. Have some engine and rear light wiring to finish, get the trans wired up, a bunch of odds and ends AND finish the exhaust. But we’re getting closer!
thank you professor I learn something from you
Hey cool! Glad to hear that!
What kind of carburetor would be good for a Chevy 350 that's been bored 60 over officially making it 388, would a 600 CFM carburetor work just fine or would I need to drop down to 500
Oh there’s a bit more to it that just that. This video will help you find the right size. Let me know if you have any questions after you watch it. ua-cam.com/video/Hy4s9B43YM0/v-deo.html
@Muscle Car Solutions Got an HEI Distributor, JDMSPEED copper strand Sparkplug wires, Nitro intake & exhaust Valves. Edelbrock 2701 intake manifold, piston ring gap are 019 thousands. Mild RV flat Tappet Cam, Aluminum HRC heads, with 1.5 roller rockers, Stock Hight valve springs,
What size did you come up with from the information in the video?
@Muscle Car Solutions kinda lost with that, I'm hoping an edelbrock 600 cfm Carburator would work
@@Wahayawolf73 I promise you I’m trying to help! That video explains how to choose a size and the math to get there. I can’t type it all out in a message here. Go watch it and see what you come up with. I’d be happy to discuss it with you after you check out what you’ll need to use to calculate what carb the engine will want.
always quality stuff. thanks man.
Thank you!
well now i know why mine broke! i better check the link thanks man
Yikes! Double check that clip!
Great stuff man!!
Thanks man!
Thank you. Just a thought on a future video, on how to tune an Edelbrock vs Holley on a stock engine (18 inches of vacuum @ idle) vs a modified engine (8 inches of vacuum @ idle), covering afr/timing/exhaust manifold choice, etc.. Love your videos.
That’s going to be difficult as I don’t work on stock engines that often, but I do understand what you’re asking about. I’ve got a bunch of carb tuning videos planned for the GMC with the AVS2, the new Edelbrock VRS and standard 4150 carburetors. Lots of do over the next few months for sure! Stay tuned and thanks for the suggestions!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Hey Chief I have a AVS2 650 on a modified 350 Edelbrock Performer Rpm Top end 195cc 64cc the camshaft is a 226/232 535/535 110+4adv hydraulic roller ...is the AVS2 650 enough I figure I'm around 450-460hp will it support that?
@@richardclary6267 cam specs are decent. Guessing with that LSA it will probably put to 6200-6500. So if you’re driving it like that, yeah the 650 will be a great choice. Really all depends on what you’re going to use it for.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I saw what I wrote it was a Performer Rpm crate engine it's 392 cu inches now..should have said that called Edelbrock and talked to them the AVS2 is good to 425hp straight from the tech there's a reason the 350 has an 800
@@MuscleCarSolutions so would you get the AVS2 800 or a Holley 780 4160 I have videos of the car and honestly it would mean a ton if you left a comment..anyway I can't Thank You enough for responding
Great video. Thanks
Anytime! Than you for watching!
Great info!!!
Thank you sir! Hope you’ve gotten time to work on your 440. I just got back in town on Friday. So far behind!
Great video good information
Thank you!
forgot to tell you I had to return my Brand new EDELBROCK AVS2 because it would not work correctly no matter how you tuned it. So sad. Going to buy a holley next
Hmm… what could you not get to work?
@@MuscleCarSolutions its ran rich no matter what you did to it.
@@hybridmusclegarage4590 what did you adjust? I’m going to assume since you’ve seen a lot of my content you know about the calibration kit and how to read the tuning chart. Plus the importance of a regulator and the range the pressure should fall into. Curious on the steps you took.
What size engine , what size avs2 was it ?
Just one more place plastic should never be!
😅