PWM Speed Controller with PWC Kill Switch or Cut Off Switch for Trolling Motor
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- Опубліковано 18 гру 2021
- This illustrates how a Personal Water Craft (PWC) cut off or "kill" switch can be installed on a PWM speed controller for use with a trolling motor. This method can also be used on PWMs that do not have a directional switch and only an On/Off controller. You can see my PWM builds on my YT channel under the playlist for reference.
Parts:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00DH3QHBI?... - Спорт
Thanks so much, I found another wiring diagram online that was a lot messier resolution than this….so glad I found you!
You are welcome!
Thanks for another GREAT video.
I had bad luck with the cord that came with my kill switch. It broke after limited use which is a BAD deal.
I looked on UA-cam and found a DIY method of making a really nice one for my Hobie Pro Angler Kayak that I fitted with a Kill Switch. I utilized a piece of 1/4" diameter dowel rod about 12" long for my application and cross drilled a hole in each end. You can use different length dowel rods and make multiple coils at a time. I used a piece of .093 diameter weed eater line Smooth Style and inserted one end of it through one of the cross drilled holes in the dowel rod and wound it tightly around the dowel rod until I reached the other end of the dowel rod and then inserted the other end through the cross hole on that end of the dowel rod. I then utilized a 11 X 13 cake pan and filled it with water and brought it to a broil on the stove top. I inserted the wound stick with the weed eater line wrapped around it into the pan and laid something over top of it to keep it submerged. I boiled it for about 5 minutes and then took it out with gloves on i.e. its hot and placed it in the freezer overnight. I left several inches of extra weed eater cord on each end so that I could use a lead crimp type clamp with a loop on each end for attaching to device utilized on each end of the coil. I picked the lead crimp type clamps at Ace Hardware. They work like a champ.
Hope this was of some help.
Thanks John, you opinion means a lot. I have made coiled lanyards the same way. They are much better than the stock ones. If you want to customize it, get some patterned/colored paracord that you like and figure out how much length will cover your lanyard. Pull the guts out of the paracord and then thread your lanyard through the sheath for a custom look.
@@Aksmaniyak Kind of hard to explain this. Sometimes the coils are a little loose. If you put a half twist in the coil and keep twisting it from one end to the other it will tighten up the coils. Funny you mention the paracord covering as a friend of mine utilized a similar method, and as you said you can really make some custom designs on your lanyards. The nice thing about making them yourself is the ability to make custom lengths for different applications.
Sharing knowledge is a great thing. I have learned a lot from UA-camrs such as yourself over the years and try to give back when I can.
@@helicopterjohns Thanks John. I have definitely learned a lot from you as well.
Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad to help.
Thank very much for your diy PWM kill switch ,,,,,,,many thanks for your videos you help us guys out from lot's of boody head ackes trying to work this stuff out
You are very welcome! I am here to help.
Thanks for VIDEO I’m been waiting for someone to make a kill switch for a PWM. I have the same setup that you show on your VIDEO but ON/OFF switch is separated from PWM BOX I Ran my wire ON/OFF switch up on my rail on my KAYAK.
You are welcome Dave.
I have ‘magneto’ and ‘coil’ - the indentations are by the magneto connectors. I’m guessing I go with coil…regardless of indentations?!! Many thanks for this.
You are welcome. If one pair doesn't work, try the other.😁
Was wondering what size Gland Nut did you use. Thanks for all of your great videos.
Thanks Dani. Sorry for the delay. It was a PG18. I bought an assortment pack off Amazon a long time ago.
Hey Aks, Thanks for the great videos. Concerning the kill switch did you solder those connections? Do you have a circuit breaker or fuse for your pwm? I have a 60 amp cb. at my battery, will that trip if something shorts in the pwm box?
Thanks! Yes, I soldered the connections and used marine heat shrink tubing too. I use the same set up as you. The power coming off the battery to the PWM has a circuit breaker. It should protect the PWM.
Great content you have on your channel. I have built a similar PWM for my Watersnake Trolling motor, It seems like at certain speeds i get interference on my fish finder. Do you have any recommendations to help with interference?
Thanks! I would check your wiring connections but I have never had an interference problem.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks
You can do the same concept with a brushed ESC 😀
That's good to know since many people are using them now.
I'm struggling finding that Reversing Switch. Can you please reply with either a note on that switch, a link would be great! Or a note on which video has the information. Thank You.
Where did you get the extra black wire to connect kill switch to power button? Because you used the power to circuit for the kill switch to circuit
I haven't Pwm mine is 6 way switch 2 wires from the battery and 2 wires from the motor thanks
The negative for the variable speed switch is the middle of the three correct? Then which one is the negative for the directional switch? Can I hook my test light backwards to find ground? Then I'll know which one?
If all your circuitry in that box fails is there anyway of bypassing the box or are you rowing home? I just need a kill switch (exactly like the one you got) wired up to a relay but I was thinking of putting 2 Anderson plugs on the box. If anything fails I can bypass the box.
I did a video for that scenario. You power the trolling motor directly with the battery.
I have a prewired two wire kill switch. What do suggest with using that type of switch?
I don't know what your switch is like.
Is the killswitch just hooked in to the negative side of the speed control?
No, the negative side of the directional switch.
Hey i have a question not specific to this completely.
I have the haswing 65 brushless motor.
I relocated the stock pot dial in to a project box and used Ethernet cable for the wires.
I am trying to find a back up pot for it to just have on hand.
Thing is its also the directional switch.
SO turn it 1 way its reverse, the the way its forward.
Iam kind of a noob when it comes to these things and not even sure what to search for.
I know you have this motor or had this motor yourself (seen your vid on it).
Was interesting the big stock head unit.. the only thing of importance inside was the little bitty pot switch. i guess all the rest is down in the motor.
All that plastic to house a little 1in dial lol.
Also interesting...I wired in a on off switch on the red wire to the pot...
it only works if the dial is at 0.
So i have to zero the dial the flip off the switch. doing that i can then turn the dial and the motor wont turn on as planned.
But if the motor is already turning and i hit the off switch it just keeps running.
So any idea of how to wire a kill switch in on this motor with out wiring it to the big wire power wires?
Thanks for any help.
Any pot should work with the hawswing, the ohms doesn't matter in a application like this.
The hawswing is a brushless motor and the ESC is in lower unit, your going to have to use a kill switch that breaks the main power as I don't think it actually has a on off but instead relies on the pot center/ neutral position.
@@BassManStrikes but iam having trouble finding one that has the forward and reverse on it.
All of them seem to just be speed dials.
I need 1 that has the zero (off) in the middle and turning 1 way goes reverse and turning the other goes forward.
The stock one isnt center really it has more travel in the forward direction than the reverse 1.
@@BassManStrikes thats what i though. Thanks.
I'm not sure what might be causing this other than that motor is digital and standard switches may not work with it.
It seems the problem is I have a normally open switch, so when the lanyard is pulled, the circuit is closed, causing the motor to run. I need a normally closed one, and when the lanyard is pulled, the circuit is open. Can you recommend a switch that is normally closed?
I put a link for the switch in the narrative section.
I’m looking to do something similar but have 4 speed settings instead of a potentiometer. Any ideas?
I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you have any photos?
What pwm/pcm board is that?
I'm having a problem. I used your model for my pwm and kill switch and after making the wiring modifications, mine did not shut off power. My directional has a black, red, and yellow while yours has a black, black, red wiring. I used the black wire and when it did not stop after pulling the kill tab, I cut the black wire and it still didn't stop. What have I done wrong?
The black wire in my PWM is connected to the center tab of the directional switch.
@@Aksmaniyak thanks so my center wire is yellow so that would be the wire to interrupt and send to the kill switch?
@@stevepolley4628 If it works the same as mine. An easy test would be to get it running and then just pull out the wire to see if it stops.
@@stevepolley4628 did it work after splicing the yellow and connecting another wire to the “I” back to the switch?
I spliced wires onto black wire only but its reversed action. motor stops when I pull on switch but runs when I remove safety catch
There are 2 types of the kill switches. You have to use the one that opens (kills) the circuit when the key is pulled.
@@Aksmaniyak Your right! I got the wrong type I took it apart to see the internal mechanism & contact is on in closed position only. i'll seek out the one you used. Thanks !
@@picwick57 Glad to help. I did the same thing originally so that's how I knew.
@@Aksmaniyak Was at doorstep when I got home, hooked the ohms meter to it & this one works like a charm!Thank you!
@@picwick57 You are welcome!
Hi there sir can I ask how to I put the kill switch in where do I put the wires on,,, can you please tell me mate,,,
Hi Peter. I explain it in the video.
Made one just like this… PWM fried after a few hours
I have been lucky that none of mine have filed. There is also a model with an internal fan that has worked well for most people. There is a video build in my PWM playlist.
@@Aksmaniyak thank you sir. Saw the video after watching this one. Ordered it and will see if I have better luck
@@gn3ricc You are welcome. Let me know how this goes for you.
@@Aksmaniyak Will do! Thanks again for all the videos.. appreciate the effort and time.
@@Aksmaniyak Tried the new PWM with the fan since the last one without a fan fried on me. Towed my buddy and myself (titan 10.5 x2) for about 4-5 hours at moderate to low speed and had no issues. I would have to say the hole drilling and mesh tape helped out a lot. Towards the end of the day, it started to trip the breaker, but I think the battery was running low and could no longer provide enough power to pull us, but luckily it was the end of our trip and almost back to the dock. Thanks for all you do and the suggestions.
Do you make these for people? I would buy one.
Thanks Cory but I don't sell these. There is no way that I could warranty all the parts.
Oh ok thought i would ask thank you for letting me know
why is it that people can use these type of kill switches on their trolling motors when they are rated for 5 amps? the maximum draw on the smallest 30 lb thrust motors is 30 amps. Being that these are normally closed switches how are they not toast after constantly being under an amp load that's significantly higher than what their rated for.
Because you have to understand how to wire the switch into the unit.