I bet your heart sank when it happened... good that you managed to fix it. Something you could have done is used a larger flat ended tip (my favourite is a knife tip) and plenty of flux and not worry about bridging pads, remove any bridges afterwards by re-applying the iron tip to it after cleaning the tip, it gradually removes a bit of solder each time.
Glad you got it fixed. I had dealt way too many times with flex cables on consumer equipment. The amount of e-waste generated because of socket failure is criminal!
I wouldn't use a fine pitched tip in that case, even drag soldering should work. Definitely you can use a beefy tip to get the ground pins heated up, still need to do it quickly because otherwise the heat will damage the connector via the neighboring pins. And then clean up any bridges created in progress, either by dragging off the solder with the iron or if the ground pins are far enough apart, you can also use solder wick on any pins which are not ground to get off excess solder.
G,day from Sydney Australia. Excellent work, no other way to test the 40 pins for continuity, except "wiggle" with tweezers? Learning outcomes * The white identification numbers on the green PCB (40) * Recognition of Mouser electronics packaging. * Disassembly of PCB from panel of Uni- T oscilloscope. Self test illuminates of buttons. Thank you 🌏🇦🇺
I had that problem with a Keysight scope and an idiotically short display cable. I managed to fix it, all that work to clean the rubber membrane keys.... with the smallest carbon dots on earth. Clearly made to fail sooner than later. I love the scope, but as with everything, the quality died with Agilent.
I bet your heart sank when it happened... good that you managed to fix it. Something you could have done is used a larger flat ended tip (my favourite is a knife tip) and plenty of flux and not worry about bridging pads, remove any bridges afterwards by re-applying the iron tip to it after cleaning the tip, it gradually removes a bit of solder each time.
I thought about that, but I didn't want to risk lifting the pads by heating them up repetitively.
Thanks for sharing. Good work. I’ve had some of those Oh no! moments and know that feeling. Also feels great when it is repaired.
Glad you got it fixed. I had dealt way too many times with flex cables on consumer equipment. The amount of e-waste generated because of socket failure is criminal!
I wouldn't use a fine pitched tip in that case, even drag soldering should work. Definitely you can use a beefy tip to get the ground pins heated up, still need to do it quickly because otherwise the heat will damage the connector via the neighboring pins. And then clean up any bridges created in progress, either by dragging off the solder with the iron or if the ground pins are far enough apart, you can also use solder wick on any pins which are not ground to get off excess solder.
A harrowing and relatable tale, thankfully with a successful conclusion - may that scope have a long and fruitful life!
G,day from Sydney Australia.
Excellent work, no other way to test the 40 pins for continuity, except "wiggle" with tweezers?
Learning outcomes
* The white identification numbers on the green PCB (40)
* Recognition of Mouser electronics packaging.
* Disassembly of PCB from panel of Uni- T oscilloscope. Self test illuminates of buttons.
Thank you
🌏🇦🇺
Nice fix, glad you were able to perform a successful repair!
I had that problem with a Keysight scope and an idiotically short display cable. I managed to fix it, all that work to clean the rubber membrane keys.... with the smallest carbon dots on earth. Clearly made to fail sooner than later. I love the scope, but as with everything, the quality died with Agilent.