Thanks Ben for another helpful video. You have the knack of clearly conveying the key aspects of the process, for which I'm extremely grateful. Anything related to Festool is helpful to me as I begin to expand my range of tools and equipment. Hope you are able to keep posting and helping others to maximise our investment in these tools and of course improve the quality of our output and avoid those expense mistake. Thanks again.
I appreciate the kind words, mike. I’ve started back up with filming, hope to have the next video out in the next week or so. Don’t hesitate to reach out for questions on anything.
Thanks for the calibration video. I’m trying to decide on which system to get. Seems like festool missed the mark on the design of this product. It appears to rely on, not only the reference side, but the perpendicular sides as well. What if those aren’t square or are curved? Was that ever an issue for you?
If I'm understanding your question, the parallel guides only reference the parallel cut, it has nothing to do with the sides of the material, and actually it is recommended that the parallel guides not touch the sides
Maybe I’m overthinking this, but I’m having a pretty hard time getting my guides properly calibrated. For some reason I can’t just make the mark like you do on top and calibrate that way. I’m off by about 1mm. I take a square and match the line so that my track saw blade(in fast fix mode) is right off to the side of it. Yet I’m still off by 1mm. Do you think maybe I should draw 2 lines (2mm apart from each other) and try to set my blade right in between them?
No. Those are only if you want to leave the guides affixed semi-permanently to the guide rail. Say a cabinet shop that makes the same sized cabinets over and over with the same rail
Great work as always, Brother! Couple of quick questions: 1.) I own SYS-MFT & (495020) Systainer Cart... Is there ANY WAY to make a combination of systainers which I can wheel from cart, and have the SYS-MFT level with my MFT/3 table? 2.) Is there ANY way to adjust the height of the MFT Table which I may be overlooking, which will allow me to adjust it to the Cart/systainer/SYS-MFT combo above?
1 - I don't own the cart or sys-mft! I wish I did (hey festool, hook me up!). I'm sure there is a way to make the systainers stacked to meet the 900mm height of the MFT/3. I think the technical info is on festool's website. You may have to fabricate a shim or two to get the height exactly right. Festool does a pretty good job of engineering everything to eventually meet at 900mm. You can go to the Tanos website and build your own load out to figure which combo will give you the correct height. produktprogramm.tanos.de/index.asp?action=config
@@BenMarshallDesigns Ahhh. As always, I greatly appreciate your time, talent, and patience to answer questions, Brother. Wishing your family health, happiness, and success. LEAD THE WAY!
lol, I wish I had the imperial not the metric, got my set used of of Craigslist at a price that was a no brainer. Just ordered a metric tape measure since metric is starting to creep into my woodworking. I do wish that the curser on the stops was a little more precise.
@@josephKEOarthur ahh that’s right. They have an additional lip on the rail. Appreciate the correction. Your research prevented a catastrophic event 🤣🤣🤣
Hi Ben... used to seeing you hairless! Lockdown beard? Looks good. I have the long rail and the mid rail (and the 800) - just wondering why the guides need to be calibrated per rail? Would fresh cuts on the splinter strip avoid this? Great vids... you are costing me a fortune on F-word toys!!
Hey David, it's my fitness beard!! Calibrating between rails is more of a best practice than anything else. Between my 1080 rail and my 1400 rail, there is a slight difference in the splinter guards - likely due to different cam positions at different times on the guide base of my TS-75. My take on this is that one step costs me a little bit of time, whereas a lack of a step costs me materials (in this case an inaccurate cut). It's just a rule of thumb and in most cases you'll be fine. I just prefer to have millimeter precision in my work, and an additional set up time of 10 minutes is worth the headache of my cuts being off. Again, likely isn't necessary in most cases, however it never hurts to double check calibration if using different rails.
@@davidbuchan2224 yes, the cams should only have to be adjust every now and then, once you work the lateral tolerance out of the guide plate, don't mess with them.
Have you seen the quick adapters for the TSO parallel guides? At the moment the quick adapters only work with festool rails. I had the festool parallel guides and they are a pain in the backside. The TSO pgs and the quick adapters look sweet. I ordered a set and am hoping they are as good in use as they appear to be on video. ua-cam.com/video/wtHrqdLbqF4/v-deo.html
Really helpful. Thanks. Just getting into Festool tracksaw and this is just what I needed...
Great to hear!
Thanks Ben for another helpful video. You have the knack of clearly conveying the key aspects of the process, for which I'm extremely grateful. Anything related to Festool is helpful to me as I begin to expand my range of tools and equipment. Hope you are able to keep posting and helping others to maximise our investment in these tools and of course improve the quality of our output and avoid those expense mistake. Thanks again.
I appreciate the kind words, mike. I’ve started back up with filming, hope to have the next video out in the next week or so. Don’t hesitate to reach out for questions on anything.
@@BenMarshallDesigns Thanks Ben and all the best with the filming etc.
Great video Ben, all the way from the UK
Thanks Andy!
Great video Ben. I always pick up a trick or tip from your videos. Keep up the good work
Thanks Patrick!
To be a bit more precise, how about setting adjustable square to 12"=305mm and use that to give two exact same marks instead of tape measure?
You could, but to me it’s more work for the same result.
Great tutorial! Wanted to ask what work apron you were using in this video, looks super handy and great quality.
Hey thanks for asking, it's hand made by my good friends Patrick and Michelle - www.leatherbydragonfly.com
@@BenMarshallDesigns Thank you Ben, Just looked them up! Going to have one made for myself. Cheers.
Thanks for the calibration video. I’m trying to decide on which system to get. Seems like festool missed the mark on the design of this product. It appears to rely on, not only the reference side, but the perpendicular sides as well. What if those aren’t square or are curved? Was that ever an issue for you?
If I'm understanding your question, the parallel guides only reference the parallel cut, it has nothing to do with the sides of the material, and actually it is recommended that the parallel guides not touch the sides
Maybe I’m overthinking this, but I’m having a pretty hard time getting my guides properly calibrated. For some reason I can’t just make the mark like you do on top and calibrate that way. I’m off by about 1mm. I take a square and match the line so that my track saw blade(in fast fix mode) is right off to the side of it. Yet I’m still off by 1mm. Do you think maybe I should draw 2 lines (2mm apart from each other) and try to set my blade right in between them?
Maybe? Usually these small issues are user error
@@BenMarshallDesigns I totally agree. Since then, I think I was finally able to dial it in near perfectly.
What about the the two flat had screws that engage the side of the rail on each parallel guide do you tighten those?
No. Those are only if you want to leave the guides affixed semi-permanently to the guide rail. Say a cabinet shop that makes the same sized cabinets over and over with the same rail
Great work as always, Brother!
Couple of quick questions:
1.) I own SYS-MFT & (495020) Systainer Cart... Is there ANY WAY to make a combination of systainers which I can wheel from cart, and have the SYS-MFT level with my MFT/3 table?
2.) Is there ANY way to adjust the height of the MFT Table which I may be overlooking, which will allow me to adjust it to the Cart/systainer/SYS-MFT combo above?
1 - I don't own the cart or sys-mft! I wish I did (hey festool, hook me up!). I'm sure there is a way to make the systainers stacked to meet the 900mm height of the MFT/3. I think the technical info is on festool's website. You may have to fabricate a shim or two to get the height exactly right. Festool does a pretty good job of engineering everything to eventually meet at 900mm. You can go to the Tanos website and build your own load out to figure which combo will give you the correct height. produktprogramm.tanos.de/index.asp?action=config
@@BenMarshallDesigns Ahhh. As always, I greatly appreciate your time, talent, and patience to answer questions, Brother.
Wishing your family health, happiness, and success.
LEAD THE WAY!
lol, I wish I had the imperial not the metric, got my set used of of Craigslist at a price that was a no brainer. Just ordered a metric tape measure since metric is starting to creep into my woodworking. I do wish that the curser on the stops was a little more precise.
Metric is much easier to do than imperial
Hey Ben Love the video! I have to ask Where can I get that apron?
Hey, Chris, thanks! It's a custom apron from Leather by Dragonfly.
www.leatherbydragonfly.com
Wicked
Get outta heah!
Thanks.
You're welcome, George
I’m presuming I can use them with Makita tracks.
Yes, they work with any T-style tracks
@@BenMarshallDesigns ya gotta trim the Makita tracks for it to work__
@@josephKEOarthur ahh that’s right. They have an additional lip on the rail. Appreciate the correction. Your research prevented a catastrophic event 🤣🤣🤣
Hi Ben... used to seeing you hairless! Lockdown beard? Looks good. I have the long rail and the mid rail (and the 800) - just wondering why the guides need to be calibrated per rail? Would fresh cuts on the splinter strip avoid this? Great vids... you are costing me a fortune on F-word toys!!
Hey David, it's my fitness beard!! Calibrating between rails is more of a best practice than anything else. Between my 1080 rail and my 1400 rail, there is a slight difference in the splinter guards - likely due to different cam positions at different times on the guide base of my TS-75.
My take on this is that one step costs me a little bit of time, whereas a lack of a step costs me materials (in this case an inaccurate cut). It's just a rule of thumb and in most cases you'll be fine. I just prefer to have millimeter precision in my work, and an additional set up time of 10 minutes is worth the headache of my cuts being off.
Again, likely isn't necessary in most cases, however it never hurts to double check calibration if using different rails.
@@BenMarshallDesigns Aaah... the cam comment is a great point - I'm constantly adjusting them... although I should just clean my rails... ;-)
@@davidbuchan2224 yes, the cams should only have to be adjust every now and then, once you work the lateral tolerance out of the guide plate, don't mess with them.
Have you seen the quick adapters for the TSO parallel guides? At the moment the quick adapters only work with festool rails.
I had the festool parallel guides and they are a pain in the backside. The TSO pgs and the quick adapters look sweet. I ordered a set and am hoping they are as good in use as they appear to be on video.
ua-cam.com/video/wtHrqdLbqF4/v-deo.html
I've heard good things about the TSO guides and rail connectors. I received these parallel guides for free from friend, so that's why I use them 😅
There set seems like a lot of work and very expensive to me
most are pretty pricey, no matter the brand