Unless I missed it, you do not explain that the hitch weight Brinkley or any other RV manufacturer advertises is also the UVW or dry hitch weight. When the camper is loaded to the GVWR, the weight on the hitch also increases, further adding to the weight on the truck. In your example, the Brinkley has a GVWR of 14,995 lbs.. Loaded hitch weights will vary depending on how the owner loads it, but you can assume 18% - 25% of GVWR. Let’s say it is loaded so that it has 20% of 14,995 lbs. (GVWR) of loaded weight on the hitch. That would be 2999 lbs. that the hitch now weighs. That is 857 lbs. more weight that should be included in your truck payload calculus. When that extra hitch weight is considered, you eliminate a good share of the trucks shown in your spreadsheet. One more thing I would caution is that RV’s, just like trucks also have a “door sticker” of sorts. It is usually located on the driver’s side front of the RV and also may be on the inside jamb of the entry door. Just like with tow vehicles, this sticker shows the true weights of your RV after all optional equipment is factored in. Manufacturers brochures usually show the build weights before options just like tow vehicles.
In 1991 (we had been camping for years already with tent campers) we bought our Terry Resort fifth wheel (24 ft.) and a 1991 extended cab F-150 with beefed up springs and a 5.8 V-8. It was a nice set-up. Since then, we have had seven different fifth wheels and currently own a Brinkley Z- 3100 and a 2020 F-350 with the 6.7. Very happy with this combo! One thing I might throw into the mix is I always prefer a long bed truck. I'm not trying to be sporty, and the long bed is all around better for towing. This is Burlington Bill busking on the road and here on You Tube.
Yes long bed trucks will be better for towing. The longer wheel base will help keep the truck stabilized. We ran into issues with our last RV and tow vehicle because of a short wheel base. It put us in a few almost accidents. Lesson learned.
Loads of great info. Thank you. I will disagree on the downsides. Based on a comparison between my two most recent tow vehicles; 2015 Ram 2500 with 6.4 Hemi (gas) and a newer model year 2021 ram 3500 with 6.7 Cummins (diesel). 1.) Low revs on a diesel usually leads to much quieter operation. That HEMI was screaming through the Rockies. On a similar trip the Cummins barely changed gear and rev patterns. Night and day, hands-down diesel is quieter. 2.) That Hemi used mid grade. Mid grade and diesel are about the same cost around many parts of the country, especially on the interstates. If you're towing with a gas engine you probably should use better fuel ... and that's where fuel cost starts to even out. Add in efficiency differences of 30% to 50% and it's not even close. 3.) + who wants to stop for fuel every 90 minutes? If you have a large trailer and a diesel engine its far easier to use the semi-truck side of the house to get fuel and DEF. Avoid that parking lot drama! (Super bonus for quality of life).
Great information in this, thanks for putting it together! One suggestion on it though. The hitch weight number you are using is really not a realistic number. Although it is the number specified on the Brinkley website, that number is going to be measured on an unloaded trailer. Realistically your hitch weight/pin weight is going to be 15% to 20% of the GVWR of the trailer. So in the case of the Z3100 you looking at somewhere between 2250lbs and 3000lbs. This of course will depend on how much you are loading into the trailer and where in the trailer that load is. Realistically I would say the Z3100 is going to need a 1 Ton to safely tow it within the specs of the truck.
Do you think you can effectively get away with a 1-ton (F-350) single wheel, instead of a dually? I've got a single wheel F-350. I have never liked dually trucks; I just have never liked the way they look.
This is great information about the hitch weight! Thank you for sharing and commenting. All the more reason to go with a one ton truck instead of 3/4 ton.
Yea I am not a dually fan due to aesthetics. The Z3100 is right on the edge of dually territory. Its heavy and getting up there in length. If I knew I was always going to tow a unit the size of the Z3100 or possibly go even larger, I would buy a dually. Too much truck is NEVER a bad thing...what you NEVER want to do is tow at the limit of the tow vehicle's capability..you always want wiggle room. (the 80/20 rule is a good measure of what tow vehicle you use).
@@markk171 I agree that too much truck is never a problem! We pushed the towing capabilities of our last tow vehicle and trailer and had some close calls. Lesson learned.
I think the hitch weight at 2,142 is the weight on the truck IF the trailer is at the UVW weight. You need to proportionally raise the hitch weight if you are trying to cover for GVWR. So, 2142 / 11923 * 14995 = 2694. Some sites will tell you to use 10%-15% for a regular trailer and 15%-25% for a 5th wheel. The original hitch weight to UVW ratio was 18% so the final hitch weight if you are at GVWR at 18% would be 2694. If you load front heavy or want some more buffer 20% could be used which would be 3,000.
I know you mentioned a con to a diesel is gas stations. But the plus is you can use truck lanes at truck stops, which may be more convenient when you are pulling your fifthwheel.
I have been researching this for weeks and you succinctly captured everything I was looking for in one video. Plus the spreadsheet...Awesome! Thank you.
Great video. I upgraded from a GMC 2500 to a 3500 (both diesel) to tow my Z3100 for all the reasons you described. Btw, how many of you drivers out there weigh 150 lbs?
Thank you - I was about to comment on this. Typically the pin weight could be up to 25% of the GVWR of the 5th wheel. In this example, the fully loaded weight of the pin could be upwards of 3,700+ lbs. The only way to know is to load it and take it to the scales, but just know one should err on the side of caution when picking a truck *after* you choose you dream RV. 😎
Awesome video...one of the best I've seen. One thing to add is that your gas/diesel in your truck's tank also takes away from your payload number. Can be significant, especially if you have a big tank(s).
Really great video you put together. I have already done my research so was aware of what you stated, but that is also why I know you are giving solid advice. Also, great spreadsheet you put together. That is a wonderful service for all who view this. One truck I would suggest you add is the Ford F-450. Compared to the Ford F-350, similarly equipped, the price difference is small. I did some pricing on the GMC and Chevy, similarly equipped, and they all seemed to be within the same ballpark. It is a dually, which I was comparing to other duallies, but the payload for any dually means payload is not going to be a worry. Thank you for this service you are doing.
Thanks! My first tow vehicle was not properly equipped to handle our first travel trailer and it put us in some dangerous driving situations. It's my hope that people can educate themselves so they don't fall into the same mess I fell into. Good idea about the F-450! I can add those metrics as well.
Rule of thumb. Ignore whatever the RV manufacturer says is the hitch weight. Instead use a percentage of the trailer GVWR. If its a 5th wheel, 25%. If its a travel trailer, 15%. This way, you know you have enough truck for a worst case loading scenario and sloppy load distribution in the trailer. Under no circumstances will the manufacturer hitch (or pin) weight ever be recorded on a scale in real life. The unit is stripped to something unusable when they weigh it.
I plan to tow with 2020 F250 6.3 gasser XLT trim We’re not full time and it’s just my wife and me. We’ll be well under Brinkley GVWR and trucks cargo capacity but our towing is close. Considering changing out 3.73 rear axle to 4.3 axle. Increases towing capacity …
I've seen people tow a Brinkley and other similar sized 5th wheels with a 3/4 ton truck. It's definitely possible, but might be safer to get a bigger truck if possible.
One thing you didn’t mention was GVWR gross vehicle weight rating. A one ton truck has a GVWR OF 14,000 pounds. To get accurate payload take the GVWR and subtract the actual weight of your vehicle. GVWR is the max your vehicle can weigh, and you’re right in case of an accident if you’ve exceeded your GVWR your insurance company could refuse to pay. That is also true for the warranty on your vehicle, the manufacturer could void the warranty if they can prove you’ve abused your vehicle by exceeding your GVWR. The best thing is to have more truck than you need both for safety and longevity. Years ago I asked one of my neighbors who had just purchased a 3/4 ton truck to replace his 1/2 ton why the 3/4 ton. His response was anything that the 1/2 could do the 3/4 ton could do it easier. Just some food for thought
Agree...to much truck is always better..its safer and puts less wear and tear on the vehicle AND, which is hardly ever mentioned, is the ability to STOP. Towing right at the limit of your vehicle is dangerous because these ratings are always judged in "best case scenarios". 80/20 rule!
We have not done this yet with our current set up since we have plenty of truck and are not concerned with violating any metrics. But, we do need to take it to a scale to get accurate numbers.
You should be talking more about how a 1 ton truck is equipped. If you just show a truck and engine there is a lot of other data. A F-350 Diesel or gas has different ratings based on the build. Just because it’s a one ton does not mean you have the properly equipped truck that is automatically rated for a particular trailer. The rear end is a large contributing factor in its rating. Wrong rear end, wrong rating. I would get rid of your blanket statements Fords Towing Selector Pages actually show the proper rating based on engine, Wheel Base, Rear End and Tow Suspension Options The Ford F-150 has to have the 3.5 Eco Boost plus the correct rear end, wheel size package to come close to 14k A lot of factors to sizing your tow vehicle for any trailer. Talk to the dealer and or tow specialist
Sounds like you have a great truck! Numbers may differ depending on the trim and cab of the truck. Regardless, you should be able to tow most 5th wheels with little issue!
Hands down diesels are the way to go for towing/hauling. They are specifically built for that kind of abuse. They have SO much more torque and will last much long under heavy use. But if you rarely tow/haul heavy loads the gas is the way to go.
Every year Ford towing may change. Make sure you check your truck and the year. Google "2024 ford f-350 towing chart" or whatever year you need to pull your specs. Significant towing increases at 2020 and beyond for the SRW.
Is the Brinkley hitch weight based upon the trailer being unloaded? I've just started looking into the Z3100, and the idea of having a stackable washer and dryer is attractive, but that weight would be right over the pin. Wouldn't that increase the hitch weight well above the 2,142 lbs listed by Brinkley? It seems to me that just adding a washer/dryer would throw you over a 3/4 ton for cargo weight.
The numbers from this video are from the manufacturers website which is base on an unloaded trailer. Adding the washer/dryer would very likely overload a 3/4 ton truck.
Rule #1. Erase the dry weight from the sticker on the RV. Just look at the GVWR numbers only. Erase the posted pin wt….multiply GVWR times .25…….that number will get you real close to actual pin wt. Rule #2. Take a quick stroll around the RV. Count the number of tires on the ground. Now you know how many tires your truck needs. As far as gas being more available………many GAS pumps can NOT be accessed with a 40 foot 5th wheel in tow. Period. Also, a lot of canopies over the gas islands are 13’ 0” or 13’6”……..you will not fit under!
Wow great rules! Number 2 is so simple, yet I have seen many violations of that one. Good point about the gas pumps. There are many small gas stations out there. We've gotten off the freeway, eyed a gas station and just turned around because there was no way we'd fit safely.
This is a great video. There needs to be more of these kinds of videos, but they're rare. RE: F-150 (Or a 1500 Ram or GM), if you put an empty Brinkley on that truck its back bumper will be sagging a foot or more. I see people trying to get away with this with much smaller fifth wheels and they are dragging. It's stupid, like a cheapskate, and dangerous. Diesel Engines are loud: Hmmm, the new ones are so quiet I have literally had to look at the side of several trucks to see if it had a badge for diesel or gas. The new ones are amazingly quiet. In fact, I don't like it. I like to hear my truck LOL. In regards to life span: If you're going to go diesel, which I think you should, you better start doing a lot of diesel podcast listening. I grew up in the trucking industry and have owned four diesel pickups and there is hardly anything comparable to a gasser. This is the BIGGEST issue when buying used, is that you have no clue how that truck has been operated and serviced. The higher weight you carry or pull, the shorter the lifespan of the frame and the engine. I'm not saying don't buy used, I'm saying it's a crapshoot when it comes to length of service and serviceability. Also, the manual of ANY of these trucks is NOT a good source for how to maintain the vehicle. For example, the F-250/F-350 manual says a 15,000 mile oil change is recommended for a heavy use vehicle (like RV towing). If you do 15,000 mile oil changes, you better trade that truck every 100k-125k, because the low end of engine is crap after that. That oil needs changing every 7k-10k (10k MAX, very MAX). The issue is DEF. DEF destroys an engine. The higher and heavier the usage, the more frequency you need to change the oil. There are other things the manuals are not good at advising. One good example is the CCV filter. The CCV filter is mentioned one time in the manual and it never says anything at all about changing it; the dealership will never change it, unless you ask them to do it.. If the CCV filter clogs up, you're going to start leaking oil in the rear-oil seal and the oil pan. It's a super cheap filter - change it. If you pull the camper once every three months and drive the truck to work (daily driver) at 55 mph for 15 miles, the emission system will get clogged. These trucks must get driven for 30 minutes each week at 70 MPH to activate the regen system. A clogged emission system is not covered in the warranty and could cost $10k to fix. What I'm getting at is there is a learning curve here and a lot of RV'ers treat these trucks like their Honda Accord and it's not going to turn out good with those kinds of habits.
Wow this is a lot of great information about diesel engines and trucks. Great point about buying used. It's important to do your research regarding how the used vehicle was used before purchasing. The previous use is not always honestly advertised. Diesel engines are definitely a learning curve. When we bought our truck, all the dealer said was to buy DEF. They never mentioned anything about oil changes, the CCV filter, or any other important information. They gave us our keys and off we went! I appreciate the information and hope to hear more! Education about these things is important.
Bang on brother! Diesels are great for towing./hauling but they need proper maintenance. And folks that tow large units with 1/2 ton trucks...they should have their license revoked! And folks that want to use a 3/4 ton to tow a 5th wheel..hmmm....well we leave it a that! 🤣
The statement that the diesel engines will we outlast the gas engines just isn’t true anymore. With all of the emissions added to these trucks, the likelihood that you’re going to have major repair and failures has dramatically increased. A simple well constructed natural aspirated, gas engine like the Ford Godzilla has a good chance of outlasting the diesel.
Good question, a Brinkley is an RV manufacturer that is creating awesome (in my opinion) 5th wheel travel trailers. Learn more here: www.brinkleyrv.com/
Unless I missed it, you do not explain that the hitch weight Brinkley or any other RV manufacturer advertises is also the UVW or dry hitch weight. When the camper is loaded to the GVWR, the weight on the hitch also increases, further adding to the weight on the truck. In your example, the Brinkley has a GVWR of 14,995 lbs.. Loaded hitch weights will vary depending on how the owner loads it, but you can assume 18% - 25% of GVWR. Let’s say it is loaded so that it has 20% of 14,995 lbs. (GVWR) of loaded weight on the hitch. That would be 2999 lbs. that the hitch now weighs. That is 857 lbs. more weight that should be included in your truck payload calculus. When that extra hitch weight is considered, you eliminate a good share of the trucks shown in your spreadsheet.
One more thing I would caution is that RV’s, just like trucks also have a “door sticker” of sorts. It is usually located on the driver’s side front of the RV and also may be on the inside jamb of the entry door. Just like with tow vehicles, this sticker shows the true weights of your RV after all optional equipment is factored in. Manufacturers brochures usually show the build weights before options just like tow vehicles.
In 1991 (we had been camping for years already with tent campers) we bought our Terry Resort fifth wheel (24 ft.) and a 1991 extended cab F-150 with beefed up springs and a 5.8 V-8. It was a nice set-up. Since then, we have had seven different fifth wheels and currently own a Brinkley Z- 3100 and a 2020 F-350 with the 6.7. Very happy with this combo! One thing I might throw into the mix is I always prefer a long bed truck. I'm not trying to be sporty, and the long bed is all around better for towing. This is Burlington Bill busking on the road and here on You Tube.
Yes long bed trucks will be better for towing. The longer wheel base will help keep the truck stabilized. We ran into issues with our last RV and tow vehicle because of a short wheel base. It put us in a few almost accidents. Lesson learned.
Loads of great info. Thank you. I will disagree on the downsides. Based on a comparison between my two most recent tow vehicles; 2015 Ram 2500 with 6.4 Hemi (gas) and a newer model year 2021 ram 3500 with 6.7 Cummins (diesel).
1.) Low revs on a diesel usually leads to much quieter operation. That HEMI was screaming through the Rockies. On a similar trip the Cummins barely changed gear and rev patterns. Night and day, hands-down diesel is quieter.
2.) That Hemi used mid grade. Mid grade and diesel are about the same cost around many parts of the country, especially on the interstates. If you're towing with a gas engine you probably should use better fuel ... and that's where fuel cost starts to even out. Add in efficiency differences of 30% to 50% and it's not even close.
3.) + who wants to stop for fuel every 90 minutes? If you have a large trailer and a diesel engine its far easier to use the semi-truck side of the house to get fuel and DEF. Avoid that parking lot drama! (Super bonus for quality of life).
Great information in this, thanks for putting it together! One suggestion on it though. The hitch weight number you are using is really not a realistic number. Although it is the number specified on the Brinkley website, that number is going to be measured on an unloaded trailer. Realistically your hitch weight/pin weight is going to be 15% to 20% of the GVWR of the trailer. So in the case of the Z3100 you looking at somewhere between 2250lbs and 3000lbs. This of course will depend on how much you are loading into the trailer and where in the trailer that load is. Realistically I would say the Z3100 is going to need a 1 Ton to safely tow it within the specs of the truck.
Do you think you can effectively get away with a 1-ton (F-350) single wheel, instead of a dually? I've got a single wheel F-350. I have never liked dually trucks; I just have never liked the way they look.
This is great information about the hitch weight! Thank you for sharing and commenting. All the more reason to go with a one ton truck instead of 3/4 ton.
We have a single wheel GMC 3500 and have had no issues towing.
Yea I am not a dually fan due to aesthetics. The Z3100 is right on the edge of dually territory. Its heavy and getting up there in length. If I knew I was always going to tow a unit the size of the Z3100 or possibly go even larger, I would buy a dually. Too much truck is NEVER a bad thing...what you NEVER want to do is tow at the limit of the tow vehicle's capability..you always want wiggle room. (the 80/20 rule is a good measure of what tow vehicle you use).
@@markk171 I agree that too much truck is never a problem! We pushed the towing capabilities of our last tow vehicle and trailer and had some close calls. Lesson learned.
I think the hitch weight at 2,142 is the weight on the truck IF the trailer is at the UVW weight. You need to proportionally raise the hitch weight if you are trying to cover for GVWR. So, 2142 / 11923 * 14995 = 2694. Some sites will tell you to use 10%-15% for a regular trailer and 15%-25% for a 5th wheel. The original hitch weight to UVW ratio was 18% so the final hitch weight if you are at GVWR at 18% would be 2694. If you load front heavy or want some more buffer 20% could be used which would be 3,000.
I know you mentioned a con to a diesel is gas stations. But the plus is you can use truck lanes at truck stops, which may be more convenient when you are pulling your fifthwheel.
This is true, those truck lanes are very convenient!
Dude! The spreadsheet! Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you! Glad you found it useful!
I have been researching this for weeks and you succinctly captured everything I was looking for in one video. Plus the spreadsheet...Awesome! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Great information here. Again! ❤
You are welcome! I'm happy to hear this video was helpful :)
Great video. I upgraded from a GMC 2500 to a 3500 (both diesel) to tow my Z3100 for all the reasons you described. Btw, how many of you drivers out there weigh 150 lbs?
I'm 150
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! You made a smart move upgrading to a 3500 for your Brinkley!
You forgot your mention that the hitch weight listed is of the UVW. Hitch weight goes up as you get closer to the GVWR.
Yes great point!
Thank you - I was about to comment on this. Typically the pin weight could be up to 25% of the GVWR of the 5th wheel. In this example, the fully loaded weight of the pin could be upwards of 3,700+ lbs. The only way to know is to load it and take it to the scales, but just know one should err on the side of caution when picking a truck *after* you choose you dream RV. 😎
Awesome video...one of the best I've seen. One thing to add is that your gas/diesel in your truck's tank also takes away from your payload number. Can be significant, especially if you have a big tank(s).
Yes this is definitely true! Our tank is 32 gallons and I'm sure most tow vehicles have a similar size tank. That's a lot of weight.
Really great video you put together. I have already done my research so was aware of what you stated, but that is also why I know you are giving solid advice. Also, great spreadsheet you put together. That is a wonderful service for all who view this. One truck I would suggest you add is the Ford F-450. Compared to the Ford F-350, similarly equipped, the price difference is small. I did some pricing on the GMC and Chevy, similarly equipped, and they all seemed to be within the same ballpark. It is a dually, which I was comparing to other duallies, but the payload for any dually means payload is not going to be a worry. Thank you for this service you are doing.
Thanks! My first tow vehicle was not properly equipped to handle our first travel trailer and it put us in some dangerous driving situations. It's my hope that people can educate themselves so they don't fall into the same mess I fell into.
Good idea about the F-450! I can add those metrics as well.
Rule of thumb. Ignore whatever the RV manufacturer says is the hitch weight. Instead use a percentage of the trailer GVWR. If its a 5th wheel, 25%. If its a travel trailer, 15%. This way, you know you have enough truck for a worst case loading scenario and sloppy load distribution in the trailer. Under no circumstances will the manufacturer hitch (or pin) weight ever be recorded on a scale in real life. The unit is stripped to something unusable when they weigh it.
I plan to tow with 2020 F250 6.3 gasser XLT trim We’re not full time and it’s just my wife and me. We’ll be well under Brinkley GVWR and trucks cargo capacity but our towing is close. Considering changing out 3.73 rear axle to 4.3 axle. Increases towing capacity …
I've seen people tow a Brinkley and other similar sized 5th wheels with a 3/4 ton truck. It's definitely possible, but might be safer to get a bigger truck if possible.
Scary for sure
One thing you didn’t mention was GVWR gross vehicle weight rating. A one ton truck has a GVWR OF 14,000 pounds. To get accurate payload take the GVWR and subtract the actual weight of your vehicle. GVWR is the max your vehicle can weigh, and you’re right in case of an accident if you’ve exceeded your GVWR your insurance company could refuse to pay. That is also true for the warranty on your vehicle, the manufacturer could void the warranty if they can prove you’ve abused your vehicle by exceeding your GVWR. The best thing is to have more truck than you need both for safety and longevity. Years ago I asked one of my neighbors who had just purchased a 3/4 ton truck to replace his 1/2 ton why the 3/4 ton. His response was anything that the 1/2 could do the 3/4 ton could do it easier. Just some food for thought
Thanks for the comment and good points about the GVWR. And it's always better to have too much truck!
Agree...to much truck is always better..its safer and puts less wear and tear on the vehicle AND, which is hardly ever mentioned, is the ability to STOP. Towing right at the limit of your vehicle is dangerous because these ratings are always judged in "best case scenarios". 80/20 rule!
Have you actuall ran your unit through a cat scale to find out what the actual loaded weights are?
will a GMC sierra Denali 3500 srw be ok pulling a brinkley z 3500 toy hauler
Have you put your setup across the scales. I would love to know the real numbers of a loaded rig. Especially the hitch weight.
We have not done this yet with our current set up since we have plenty of truck and are not concerned with violating any metrics. But, we do need to take it to a scale to get accurate numbers.
You should be talking more about how a 1 ton truck is equipped. If you just show a truck and engine there is a lot of other data. A F-350 Diesel or gas has different ratings based on the build.
Just because it’s a one ton does not mean you have the properly equipped truck that is automatically rated for a particular trailer.
The rear end is a large contributing factor in its rating. Wrong rear end, wrong rating.
I would get rid of your blanket statements
Fords Towing Selector Pages actually show the proper rating based on engine, Wheel Base, Rear End and Tow Suspension Options
The Ford F-150 has to have the 3.5 Eco Boost plus the correct rear end, wheel size package to come close to 14k
A lot of factors to sizing your tow vehicle for any trailer. Talk to the dealer and or tow specialist
Thank you for the comment and sharing some great information! There are definitely a lot contributing factors when selecting a tow vehicle.
My F350 with 7.3 Gas is rated at 21,400 5th wheel towing, 19,500 conventional towing.
Sounds like you have a great truck! Numbers may differ depending on the trim and cab of the truck. Regardless, you should be able to tow most 5th wheels with little issue!
Hands down diesels are the way to go for towing/hauling. They are specifically built for that kind of abuse. They have SO much more torque and will last much long under heavy use. But if you rarely tow/haul heavy loads the gas is the way to go.
@@markk171 Our last tow vehicle was gas and our current one is diesel. We've noticed a big difference!
Every year Ford towing may change. Make sure you check your truck and the year. Google "2024 ford f-350 towing chart" or whatever year you need to pull your specs. Significant towing increases at 2020 and beyond for the SRW.
Is the Brinkley hitch weight based upon the trailer being unloaded? I've just started looking into the Z3100, and the idea of having a stackable washer and dryer is attractive, but that weight would be right over the pin. Wouldn't that increase the hitch weight well above the 2,142 lbs listed by Brinkley? It seems to me that just adding a washer/dryer would throw you over a 3/4 ton for cargo weight.
The numbers from this video are from the manufacturers website which is base on an unloaded trailer. Adding the washer/dryer would very likely overload a 3/4 ton truck.
Actually, 2 people, 150 lbs of gear and full fluids are exempt from factory payload ratings. J2807 SAE
Rule #1. Erase the dry weight from the sticker on the RV. Just look at the GVWR numbers only. Erase the posted pin wt….multiply GVWR times .25…….that number will get you real close to actual pin wt.
Rule #2. Take a quick stroll around the RV. Count the number of tires on the ground. Now you know how many tires your truck needs.
As far as gas being more available………many GAS pumps can NOT be accessed with a 40 foot 5th wheel in tow. Period. Also, a lot of canopies over the gas islands are 13’ 0” or 13’6”……..you will not fit under!
Wow great rules! Number 2 is so simple, yet I have seen many violations of that one.
Good point about the gas pumps. There are many small gas stations out there. We've gotten off the freeway, eyed a gas station and just turned around because there was no way we'd fit safely.
Another con to a diesel is, it weights more, takes away from weight the truck can tow.
Yes this is true!
Sometimes not as much as you would think as diesels tend to have a higher GVWR
@@dank8017 In most of the 3/4 or 1 ton class , the gasers have the same suspension as the diesels. I believe diesels weight 400 plus lbs more.
3500 all day long. 2500 would be ok for weekend trips to the lake. 1500 is a death wish.
100% agree!
1-Ton Dully
This is a great video. There needs to be more of these kinds of videos, but they're rare.
RE: F-150 (Or a 1500 Ram or GM), if you put an empty Brinkley on that truck its back bumper will be sagging a foot or more. I see people trying to get away with this with much smaller fifth wheels and they are dragging. It's stupid, like a cheapskate, and dangerous.
Diesel Engines are loud: Hmmm, the new ones are so quiet I have literally had to look at the side of several trucks to see if it had a badge for diesel or gas. The new ones are amazingly quiet. In fact, I don't like it. I like to hear my truck LOL.
In regards to life span: If you're going to go diesel, which I think you should, you better start doing a lot of diesel podcast listening. I grew up in the trucking industry and have owned four diesel pickups and there is hardly anything comparable to a gasser.
This is the BIGGEST issue when buying used, is that you have no clue how that truck has been operated and serviced. The higher weight you carry or pull, the shorter the lifespan of the frame and the engine. I'm not saying don't buy used, I'm saying it's a crapshoot when it comes to length of service and serviceability.
Also, the manual of ANY of these trucks is NOT a good source for how to maintain the vehicle. For example, the F-250/F-350 manual says a 15,000 mile oil change is recommended for a heavy use vehicle (like RV towing). If you do 15,000 mile oil changes, you better trade that truck every 100k-125k, because the low end of engine is crap after that. That oil needs changing every 7k-10k (10k MAX, very MAX). The issue is DEF. DEF destroys an engine. The higher and heavier the usage, the more frequency you need to change the oil.
There are other things the manuals are not good at advising. One good example is the CCV filter. The CCV filter is mentioned one time in the manual and it never says anything at all about changing it; the dealership will never change it, unless you ask them to do it.. If the CCV filter clogs up, you're going to start leaking oil in the rear-oil seal and the oil pan. It's a super cheap filter - change it.
If you pull the camper once every three months and drive the truck to work (daily driver) at 55 mph for 15 miles, the emission system will get clogged. These trucks must get driven for 30 minutes each week at 70 MPH to activate the regen system. A clogged emission system is not covered in the warranty and could cost $10k to fix.
What I'm getting at is there is a learning curve here and a lot of RV'ers treat these trucks like their Honda Accord and it's not going to turn out good with those kinds of habits.
Wow this is a lot of great information about diesel engines and trucks.
Great point about buying used. It's important to do your research regarding how the used vehicle was used before purchasing. The previous use is not always honestly advertised.
Diesel engines are definitely a learning curve. When we bought our truck, all the dealer said was to buy DEF. They never mentioned anything about oil changes, the CCV filter, or any other important information. They gave us our keys and off we went!
I appreciate the information and hope to hear more! Education about these things is important.
Bang on brother! Diesels are great for towing./hauling but they need proper maintenance. And folks that tow large units with 1/2 ton trucks...they should have their license revoked! And folks that want to use a 3/4 ton to tow a 5th wheel..hmmm....well we leave it a that! 🤣
@@markk171 100%!!
The statement that the diesel engines will we outlast the gas engines just isn’t true anymore. With all of the emissions added to these trucks, the likelihood that you’re going to have major repair and failures has dramatically increased. A simple well constructed natural aspirated, gas engine like the Ford Godzilla has a good chance of outlasting the diesel.
1'st thing u shoulddo is weigh u-R Rigs. So u don'tget A Ticket from State trooper
What the heck is a Brinkly?
Good question, a Brinkley is an RV manufacturer that is creating awesome (in my opinion) 5th wheel travel trailers. Learn more here: www.brinkleyrv.com/