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How To Build A Model Railway / Railroad Layout For Complete Beginners - Part 1 - Baseboard & Track
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2020
- How To Build A Model Railway / Railroad Layout For Complete Beginners - Part 1 - Baseboard & Track. For More Photos and information visit our website:
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That's brilliant. I'm brand new to model trains and this is just what I was after.
Great, glad we could help, hoping to cover buildings next week.
A good idea!
Always helpful for people hoping to start modelling to know how to do it at a really small and simple scale without needing a whole loft room and miles of track going round and round the room.
It was watching your tight track radius videos that got me started on my 48" x 20" layout that now has 8 points on it. It is also a 1:35 scale narrow gauge on 00 track.
Thank you!
Sounds epic
great start to this project, You know us here we love this type of project and doing things for as little as posable and thinking outside the boxes helps, we used 50mm foam as a base board on our N gauge build and its 5ft long and 18inc wide and and cost very little. look forward to seeing how this comes along. Keep safe
Breaking up furniture now for layouts. I foresee trouble abrewin' on the domestic front. 🚂😄👍
Just wait till my cunning plan for a garden railway gets out!
Fantastic video guys ! its going to help a lot of people out including myself . One thing I do recommend with secondhand track well all track really is Metal Conductive Flinch plates as I found out they help reduce voltage drop on the track
Love this,Hattons are a lot cheaper for items including track than many ebay sellers.You are bang on the price of model railway items vary greatly from site to site,so shopping around is a great idea.Stay well Mike and Doug :)
I've been railway modelling for 60 years now, and would say that is an excellent beginners video. Well done.
Thats very kind of you, thanks
This is a great idea and well needed as there are few guides on UA-cam aimed at the very beginner and the way you have explained it will encourage anybody thinking about starting a railway to give it a go especially if it is for kids/grandchildren . Well Done...…..Cheers Kev.
Thanks Kev part 2 out next week
Very inspiring to go and build a small shunting railroad! Can't wait for next video in the series. -Rick
Thanks
Ah so this is a bit different than your usual stuff, perfect for an unusual situation. I think this series is a perfect idea and should’ve come out ages ago but I’m glad it didn’t! This is a perfect time to get people very new to the hobby into it or maybe people that have been out of it for a while, a stepping stone to work off of during this everlasting lockdown.
This I think is what I had needed all along as well or for sure helps me. Even though I have watched your videos for a few years I just finally was able to get the funds to invest in all of this. Great little video guys! I hope to use some of this in the gun case layout I’m still piecing together, will for sure have to email the results!
Much love from the USA and hope you guys stay healthy over there across the pond brothers!
Thanks glad you enjoyed it, looking forward to seeing your project progress. Take care and stay safe
Excellent video kind friend. Super 4 track is a good buy as a job lot on eBay. These are basic skills thoroughly well illustrated. Not everyone has vast amounts of money to throw at this engaging (no pun intended) hobby. Learning the practicalities of railway operations is fundamental to it's success regardless of it's location.
Love it the way you save people money doing this hobby 👍
Very good presentation. Sleepers can often be broken when lifting track. I found that pieces cut from Bryant & May Extra Long matches, glued to the base board between the rails, were perfect replacements. I just used a felt-tipped pen to colour them black to match.
I have done the same with black card
Thx for sharing. Great video to watch waking up with some fresh made coffee. Looking forward for the next one. 👍
With donuts?! Thanks for watching, update hopefully next week
@@BudgetModelRailways no donuts, just a half spoon brown sugar. 😉
Wow I an new to the world of model rail way an am planing a lay out at the moment and you have just given me my shunting yard brilliant thanks looking forward to more.
Thanks for watching, lots of updates planned
I've been watching your content for a couple days now and I'm confident to start my first layout. keep doing what your doing its great!
Great, thanks. Have fun with it
brilliant guys learning all the time time from your stuff .. i mean roofing felt and a bit of grey paint looks just like ballast great !!
Thanks for watching
Excellent welldone.
Awesome idea - help the newby.
Another great idea for very little cost. Ideal for a starter. Points are expensive.
Saving money when building a layout during covid 19. Brilliant piece of work.
I was considering putting a forth point at the entrance to the fiddle yard to add track options for running in another loco or creating an interchange between two rail lines. 🤔 but that defeats your low cost philosophy 😕
Great concept, great video, makes me think it would be possible to buy an ikea Billy bookcase and make each shelf into a small layout, could house the entire hobby if someone was tight on space!
Excellent video Mike. This type of video is needed and I guess always required as new people want this type of hobby. Well done John
Thanks
Thanks for all the great ideas and I am going to build a layout like that. Thanks
Thanks for watching, good luck with your layout have fun with it
Excellent tutorial for both the beginner and the experienced modeler who wants to have a go at another scale without investing a lot of money. You can get a lot of enjoyment from this simple project modeling, detailing and operationally.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Almost all of my flex track is reused track and all of my switches are used. I buy most of my materials from train shows or sales. Go with a gauge so you can measure the rack and get the right gauge. I have found that there may be 2 different gauges in the same bin. Also, look the switches over to see that they are not loose or warped. This can happen when the track is roughly pulled up.
Well done, great presentation , I think the same as you, i look at what I'm throwing out and think "what can i make out of this???" mind you ,I am Scottish lol.Hope you and your family and subscribers stay safe and well,till next time ,Thanks ,,,Mac
Its become second nature too me, but I am Scottish on my great grandmothers side! Stay safe
@@BudgetModelRailways well your blood is pure recycling lol ,you know it was 2 Scotsman fighting over a penny that invented copper wire lol .
NESR 🤣
Nice basic indications about how to plan and build a small layout. For the part of the headshunt, it's quite obvious (locomotive + wagon) but sometimes you botch this one by not thinking of such basic thing ! Also, Even if my locomotives will be smaller on this one, I take a Jinty to calculate the lenght of my headshunt. Reasons ? I have one first, and I have its reproduction on Anyrail for planification (I'm a chronic Anyrail abuser, I've made dozens of plans with it on my computer).
Anyway, my small layout project (a small terminus station in a forest) is taking form, I have decide to limit myself in a 2 A3 paper sheets size, align on their smaller edge. Roughly the same size as your project, I do not have shelves to bash to make my project, so I will buy some MDF cutted at the right size to do it.
Keep on the good job done, it is always interesting to see what you are doing.
very helpful Thanks.
What a lovely starter video, very clear and I'm sure it will inspire a lot of new (and old) modellers to try a new layout in these difficult times 😀👍. I'll hopefully have a go myself 🤣
Thanks for watching
Thanks for your advicr, there is no scrrw in the chimney stay safe and well both of you.,David
Very good.
Thats nice video on the layout.
Excellent video. Well designed and presented. I've been watching your channel for about a year and a half, your creativity always impresses me. By the way I really like the drybrush ballast tip. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see the next installment.
Thanks thats very kind, glad you enjoy what we do
Again, hurrah!
And thank-you!
Thanks John
Yes many thank you for sharing the screen shots of the ebay sales.
We are here to be helpful, thanks for watching
Really informative video, amazing what you can do in such a small space. Thanks for sharing, All the best, Paul
Thanks
Awesome video! Thank you! So helpful 😀👍🚂
Thanks, happy to help
Thank you for doing this series!
Your welcome, thanks for watching
Been modelling about 10 years and found some really useful tips and cool ideas in this video. Really good beginners video, well done
Many thanks for watching, part 2 out as we speak
Clear and simple explanation, just what we beginners want. You have kickstarted my enthusiasm for this brilliant hobby! Now where did I put that off cut of roofing felt!
So glad we could help, more updates planned
Great video, I bought and use mostly second hand track, controllers and locos which really kept cost down. In fact that might be an idea for another beginners guide video, if you haven't already thought of it, and that's getting hold of good secondhand controllers. Thanks for sharing 👍🚂
We have lots of videos on buying second hand, especially locos and rolling stock, as you say its the cheapest way
We produce our own controller boxes to take cheap electronics and make a great dc controller, see our website
If buying second hand track, it is good to just go over it with a fine grade sandpaper or something to that effect just to remove any surface rust or oxidation.
Oxides can reduce conductivity to locos, so removing it is more or less a must-do in my experience.
I'd strongly recommend not to use sandpaper, no matter how fine it is.
You might get away withj it in OO or HO but you risk creating scratches or little pits for dirt to pile on.and you could end up cleaning more and more.
For N I just use a cloth and some fluid, tracks get very dirty as the cloth always shows and this dirt will also pile on in the mentioned scratches and little pits when using sandpaper.
Great video. Spot on.
Thanks
Some great tips and looking forward to more in this series 😀
Thanks
Really love this channel and the videos
!
Thanks Tom
Loved this video. Very informative. Thank you
Thanks
Another way of using the Buffer stops is to put a small piece of Plasticard as a ramp to lift the coupling hook out of the way. This means the engines can run close to the buffer stops. Often need another piece behind to prevent the hook latching onto the cross bar.
Good idea thanks
excellent as ever boys well done and well said as for braking sleepers i you a old engineers steal rule slips under a treat slit twist and there out
Thats what I use, but even then I tend to break a few.
Just about to start a similar project of a fictitious Highland terminus inspired by this layout. Had an old shelf lying around.
Great, let us know how you get on. Have fun, stay safe
Brilliant introduction into building a basic shelf layout
Thanks, updates due out soon
You're quite right about prices on eBay, people need to beware of the RRP before they buy. Some retailers on there are basically charlatans charging three times the retail price for brand new track and other railway items, and then postage on top.
This has nothing to do with covid 19 either, their pricing structure has been the same all along. If buying new the best bet is to check the manufacturers website first for the RRP and then shop around, it's amazing how much discount you can get.
Btw great idea to do a little beginners guide on this layout, best way to bring people in to the hobby is to show them what/how/why, that it needn't be expensive and most of all it's fun.
Thanks Tony, all good points
A brilliant example of how to get people started Nice one 👍👍🍺
Thats kind thanks, thats what we aim to do
I'm looking at doing something like this for my first project. I want to lay a couple of extra roads with an island platform do you think an 18 inch width would been OK to accommodate the extra roads
Please could you answer a very simple question for a complete newbie? What gauge track are you using and is that the best gauge to start off with. I would hate to start a project and find that I have made the wrong choice. If I start something, it normally goes big very quickly! Many thanks
It's OO or HO if you are in the US Europe. It's cheaper, more readily available and has a bigger range of new and second hand items than N 009 etc so is ideal for beginners. Any questions just ask, happy to help
@@BudgetModelRailways thank you so much ☺️
Got the parts lists here for Fleischmann Profi and Piko A track. Track plans are based on 1/1 and 1/2 length pieces, with the 'double straight' replaced by 2 full and one half length piece
Piko part list
5x G231, 5x G119, 1x R9, 2x WR, 1x WL. Add 3x G231 for the fiddle yard. Full length piece is the G231
Fleischmann part list
5x 6101, 5x 6103, 1x 6138, 2x 6171, 1x 6170. Add 3x 6101 for the fiddle yard. Full length piece is the 6101. The 6170 and 6171 can both be numbered 6140 if you buy them 2nd hand, be sure to get the right amount of left and right hand points as the 6140 can be both.
Buyer tips
It does not matter if the small staple like connectors are missing on the Fleischmann points, you won't need them as they power the otherwise dead track.
Buy the Piko points new and ask to see the underside of the blades. These should be made from track profile, not a piece of folded steel
A word of caution: While continental points are usually designed as insulfrog type points, most are hardwired for DCC operation so they won't isolate the unusable track. You can remove the wire bridges on the Fleischmann one, but the Piko bridges are hidden deep in a sleeper
Once again great inspirational stuff! We have grandchildren living with us for the duration of the lock down so we're going to make this together. I am using a piece of 9mm plywood that I already have. It's 6ft x 1ft so I should be able to include the fiddle yard in that. What piece of curved track did you use - I'm not familiar with set track?
I'm also using dcc as I have a couple of second hand Hornby select units knocking around from an old layout together with a Hornby 0-4-0 saddle tank that I put a dcc chip into.
Managed to source the 2 (new) peco points I need I already have the third one. New Peco stuff is becoming very hard to find. When I tried the big online retailers they were all out of stock on lots of Peco stuff. Hornby stuff is still mostly available.
Looking forward to the next video.
Its a Hornby R606 short 2nd radius curve. Peco have closed down for the duration hence the difficulties, hopefully they will re open soon. Hornby seem OK? Have fun with your layout, great to do it with the grand children. Part 2 on buildings should be out next week, thanks for watching and supporting
great tips with the felt :) ty :)
We use it a lot, I hav'nt ballasted track for years!
This looks really good. For my first test in model railways I also used a 9" X 47" board with a shunting layout. It is good as it allows you to test skills needed for a larger layout. How will your smaller loco's get on with the p;points? That is an area I really have struggled with - I am using Hornby points.
Peco are much better than Hornby due to the smaller plastic frog. It mostly depends on the loco, not the points
Thanks for your help concerning my Jinty. U have discovered what was wrong with the loco, it had a track pin jammed between the body and one of the drive wheels. It had been like this since I bought it on Ebay. Stay well regards David
So pleased you fixed it!
It is often mentioned in these video's that there will be a parts list, and this is one, it is talked within the recording of the various rails, but it goes too quick to make any notes, as there are quite a few, can any body give a comprehensive detailed list, sorry to ask such a basic question but I am new to this hobby but loving these tutorials
Hi, sorry well spotted we didn't get round to a list. To some degree it will depend on what size board you have. You will need two right hand, one left hand point, an R606 short curve and some short straights and a double straight as a minimum. Buildings etc are mention and shown in the video, hope this helps. Any questions just ask
Another tip I discovered is that you can make great baseboards from leftover laminate flooring as long as you can make a frame to sit it on. The cutting is easy and there is next to no waste. Leftovers can be put to other uses as well.. It's also recycling. Kind regards from rainy Slovenia.
As far as track pins etc are concerned with this method you can use fibreboard glued on top which also acts as a sound dampener. Here in Slovenia we can get a German laminate floor 6mm underlay which comes in 500mm square sections and costs very little (also made from recycled materials). No waste with that either as you can use it for many other uses on the layout. It's laminate flooring upside down basically.
Sounds good, I have used laminate flooring for a shunting layout and frequently to make back scenes. Hello to Slovenia
I’m new to this hobby I live on long Island Ny found your video interesting but brand new to this I have 4x8 board
That's a pretty big board by UK standards but small by US. Are you planning to run N or HO please
@@BudgetModelRailways Ho
@@BudgetModelRailways I’ll be running HO
Fantastic little layout very similar to what i started off with as a kid and now come full circle building this version, got all the track, building and rolling stock but just need the base board any ideas on best type of timber and thickness??
Cheers
Guy
A bit of standard melamine shelf should do it?
@@BudgetModelRailways Cheers guys thanks.
Well explained shunting
Thanks, I will make a longer video on operating the layout once its finished
Very clear presentation for a beginner like me🤙
Glad we could help, there are a few videos in that series if that helps
Superb just the confidence boost I needed. Thank you
Thanks
@@BudgetModelRailways Sorry to ask simple questions. Planning is moving forward but I need to get the track spec right. Would it be possible to add a full and coded track list to the end of video one ? Being a complete beginner I am only just beginning to understand the rails . . . it should be easy but i just want to get it right. Keep up the good work.
Most underestimated length? Sidings: I learned the hard way that 4 x 30 cm coaches don't fit on a 60 cms of track.
Really useful for a newbie. It would be really useful for parts list at the end, I’ve been looking the bits here and it’s not that clear how all the bits would fit! Is short straight, standard straight etc. the technical term for track! And the curves that come out of points, are they critical? Thanks. Really useful videos. I know they are old, but just getting into track building.
Hi, it should be possible to work it out from the videos in the series. R606 is the curve to make the track run parallel after the point. Yes standard and short are the descriptions. It will depend on what size you make as to what pieces you need, with three points as shown and an R606 you can then make the loops, sidings and head shunt whatever length you like. This got sold years ago so difficult for me to list now, sorry
I've just started on my own version of this as well. I'd be happy to put up my track list if anyone is intetested. One curious thing I've found though is that the Peco and Hornby 'Short straights' don't appear to be the same thing.
Excellent advice, I love those track screws. B&Q stores that cut wood have scrap boxes of offcuts that you can take for a small charity donation. I got two 4 ft by 3 ft boards last time I went. Now if you can do a video on how to remove Peco fishplates I would be in the front row.
Very small pliers
@@BudgetModelRailways They are somehow welded on, Hornby are easy to remove. I use those ready soldered joiner like yours.
My peco track has removable fish plates?
@@BudgetModelRailways Mine are somehow fastened on a look like they need drilling off.
I wonder if someone soldered them on,
Lovely idea!
Be interesting to see what the cost ends up without any fabrication!
It will be getting towards £100, a lot more than if I scratch built it, but about half of using resin and less than using Metcalfe.
@@BudgetModelRailways absolutely!
The Metcalfe stuff is very pricey...
Would be nice to see use of fencing or walls or even a back scene on here too!
Fences walls and back scene are planned, this is only part one!
Loved this a lot! How would you go about weathering locos, rolling stock, and buildings on a budget?
Hi, thanks. We have earlier videos on weathering locos and rolling stock and will be covering buildings in an up coming video in this series. Thanks for watching
PS, we use the dry brush technique
Great video 👍🙂
Thanks
The dry brushing to give the effect of ballast is very effective (ha ha)
I thought so too.
Care if I recalculate this to130mm vehicle length and a few common track types? That would make it useable with the famous 8 car set from Roco
Feel free but its surely too small for 8 anything!?
I'm a beginner and hope to set up my Flying Scotsman set soon found your video for beginners helpful especially using roofers felt just a simple question what do you use to attach the felt to the board?.
PVA , it helps to put some weight on the felt while it dries ,I use books.
Just a point of note, I see that you're using older Hornby steel track on this layout. Regarding your point (no pun intended) about the difference between Peco and Hornby points, current Hornby points a virtually identical to the equivalent Peco units. The frogs are identical. The only difference that I have found is the location of the switch bar, which is further back on Peco points.
The plastic frog is smaller on the peco point and the switch mechanism is much more robust, I have had 3 Hornby points break
You should put the prices for new vs 2nd hand as a comparison. Look ing forward to this.
2nd hand prices vary so much, I did mention the sort of savings possible, this video is really for people who might prefer to buy new
I have two train sets still in there boxes just sitting there, my intention was to have a setup in the loft, but now I am having problems with my knees, so now that idea has gone out the window, we do have a spare room, and I was thinking of maybe having some kind of set witch I could lower down from the ceiling, have you got any videos of this being done, can't just have a permanent setup because we some times have family staying, 👍
Layouts that fold against a wall used to be quite common, they get a lot of coverage in the older model railway books, esp by Cyril Freezer.
Budget Model Railways thank you very much, that my be the best way thinking about, thanks for the reply, 👍👍.
Or a large shunting layout stored on its end behind a door?
Slowly working my way through your wonderful channel :) I never knew track screws were a thing, many memories of bashed fingers and a few bent pins during track laying. I see screws come in different lengths, just wondering if 6mm is adequate for track onto ballast mat and then plywood. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching and supporting much appreciated. 6mm seems OK but I have struggled with shorter ones.
@@BudgetModelRailways Many thanks. I spent a while overthinking this the other night and then risked equally sore fingers from searching online for thoughts.
Trashed a pair of points and broke several sleepers lifting pinned track yesterday :( Screws arrived this morning and 6mm works perfectly. I'll never touch another track pin again!
That's why I switched too
Just a simple question
As a child I had a simple oval shaped train set .. didn’t every wee boy ?
A simple Tri-ang transformer controlled the train .. clockwise for forward and anticlockwise for reverse .. easy, but that’s all it needed to do
Now you see layouts with multiple interconnected tracks, sidings and of course numerous trains. How does the user control each separate train?
Mostly using DCC computer control
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you, but had to look up what DCC stands for, but at least I know now.
Regards !
You can do it with the older system if you isolate sections and use more than one controller
great video for the beginner like me. any chance of a full list of track pieces you need for this layout.
It does mention them.in the video, I think the only piece I forgot was R606
@@BudgetModelRailways I know,but you seemed a bit confusing to me
To he honest it depends on the size of board. The points are left and right standard points, R606 make a passing loop using either standard or double straights, likewise for the sidings. The layout is long gone so I can't check
Hiya - I'm not a 'Newbie' but am if you want an 'oldbie' cos I've been Model Railing on & off since I was 8 yrs old & now I'm in my mid 40's - any way I didn't know about @ 8:20 the 'New Track screw' - seems better than the 'old track pins' - also if you try to take out the pins - not only as you said that you could damage the track but also end up bending the pins which will not be any good!!!
Thanks for watching
how wide and long is the board and the fiddle yard
Can you please tell me what type of "Curve" have you used "Radius" and length and where did you place the small bit of Straight Track. Thanks for your earlier reply
Hi,I think I mention it in the video. I think the short straight was R606 short 2nd radius
@@BudgetModelRailways yes you do mention the small piece of track it is shown by your able assistant, however we do not see where it is put as you are off sceen at that time. Are you referring to 2rd Radius with the Curved Track?. As I have mentioned before I am a complete novice with this hobby and appreciate any help you are giving.
I'm in Australia and have just started looking at your channel as a way to get into an Iso project. What is roofing felt?
Its what we put on shed roofs if that helps? In the UK we can buy ballast mat from gaugemaster and javis which does the same thing
I see just from a quick google search that roof felt costs like £2 per square metre compared to over £10 per sqm for ballast mat on Gaugemaster. Can you describe how the texture feels? I presume it has bitumen in it to make it waterproof.
I think we call it Malthoid in Australia. It only comes in narrow strips up to 150 mm wide.
Yes its like a coarse dry black sand paper
Can I ask what product did you use to glue the felt to the board? and your list did not appear at the end of the video and I have v8ew it several times
Pva but any kind of contact adhesive will also work
What is the curved piece of track on this? Radius 2 curve?
Its R606 single 2nd radius curve
39 inches is metric...a yard is Imperial ie 36 inches, a metre is metric...
Can you please list all track that you used as it got a little confusing as im a beginner and wanting to build something very similar for my son
Hi, the layout was sold some years ago and I don't draw track plans or lists sorry. But depending on the board size you would need three standard points, a right and a left and another of either for the siding depending on which way it goes. A Hornby R606 curve will run the track parallel and then use standard Hornby straights of whatever lengths to make the loop as long as you like. A single straight and a double straight will give you the smallest loop, you then add as required. The head shunt needs to be at least a single straight but if you have the room then a double is better. Peco points are much better
There are a few more videos in this series that should help. Power goes at one end depending on which way the siding goes. Don't use the basic Hornby controller it's awful at slow speed. Anything I can do to help just ask
Excuse my ignorance, how do you attach and support the " fiddle yard" i am very new to this
In this case it rests on the same desk top the layout sits on and just connects with the usual fishplates. Hope this series helps you, any questions just ask
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you for that, much appreciated
Most things are quite simple, ignore those who try and complicated, have fun
I am an absolute beginner and have 0 experience designing and building a layout. Please could you suggest a good source for 2nd hand track and small 0-4-0 locos?
Try Classic Rail, give him a ring as he doesn't have track on his website but has loads in the shop.
Best advice is keep the layout simple.
@@BudgetModelRailways thank you so much :)
@@BudgetModelRailways and to think he's in of all places Kent!!! I am definetly paying him a visit :) I am in Canterbury.
also can will you put a back scene on it, can you run any BoBos and why did you use images of the hornby track packs in the thumbnail?
Yes it will have a bacjscene, this is part one not the finished layout. A BO Bo might fit, I will try, its just a picture of track?
I class 35 hymek fits in the head shunt but its not really what its designed for
by the way what was that black item on the track in the fiddle yard?
Its an uncoupler
I found some coal staithe buffers :)
What size board did you use?
It's in one of the videos, if I remember correctly about 39x10in
@@BudgetModelRailways ok thank you👍
What if is tender engine?
The layout is not designed for larger locos, its a minimum space layout
What scale is this?
OO
can someone send a link for part 2 of this please
Its not been made yet, should be tomorrow, if you click the notification bell icon then you wont miss it. Thanks
Part 2 is now online
Budget Model Railways Thankyou guys
A new track point now costs £16! Pre-owned is the only way to make this affordable.
That's why I always use second hand points
I've never bought a train for over 1/2 the RRP! Its stupid how much they charge for 'super detail' (super low detail) models. Ie. Class 350 RRP £180, Class 450 (Same mould different livery) £360+ RRP. Logic?
The scenery still suffers though!.
Pricing is bonkers esp of the supposed budget stuff