First you put on the spring, then the spring stop ("cup") then the bearing, then the rubber strut mount, then you put the first nut on and tighten it. I made the mistake of watching this and putting the bearing on first and then the cup on top of it and it drove the shaft through the bearing and stuck up under my "hood" and was useless while limping it home. I took some large washers made for bolting a bottom part of a shocks (you know the ones that go on the stud. First you put on the washer, then push the shock on with the rubber bushing and then another big washer before the nut to make a rubber bushing sandwich on the bottom stud) anyway, I opened the hole of the washer to fit it over the shaft, then I put it on top of the broken bearing to keep it together under the big rubber strut mount. I will now need to buy new strut bearings, but for now my "washer hack" works fine.
Thank you sooooo much your order of suspension parts was correct. I had tried three variations but yours worked. This video is sooo misleading. The big giveaway that the part order is wrong is you don’t have enough threads on the last nut. To answer others take headlight out to do job easier. Thank you again. ❤
Some of the more persistent problems with these cars are associated with the SAM module and the clutch/gear selection - with the latter eventually causing the car to refuse to run. I don't know if you plan to look at these if your car is working normally but it would help a lot of owners.
I would double check the order of the parts being loaded on top of the strut, the bearing should sit on top of the spring top plate and the rubber bumper fits over the bearing 🤔
I’m doing this job right now and all the bits exploded over the workshop floor so was hoping this video would help. Seems he has had the same nightmare I’m having. Will try your edited method thank you.
Thanks for this video, very informative. I have a 2009 diesel passion purchased new. I have had one broken front spring. excessive play in a pin/bush, mass air flow sensor replaced last year and just now had all shocks replaced, MOT test due in two weeks. The air con stopped working after about two years, which I never bothered with, cause it is not really that important to me here in the south east of England. When I first got the car, I went back to the dealer and said, it only got a little over 270 miles on a tank, how is that economical? The sales guy just said it will get better. Today the car gets around 500 miles to a tank, pretty much on just normal driving, it actually manages more on a long drive where I am in 5th for long periods. I have been up to 90 mph, but drive at 70 or below on motorways. My version only has 45 bhp so it takes its time getting up to speed. Diesel in the UK is around £7 per gallon.
This is not strut replacement, it is SPRING replacement - you should take the trouble to describe the content accurately ? A 21mm offset ring spanner and T45 Torx angled key are all you need - we have been an indy MB and Smart workshop for over 10 year. Use a pair of motorcycle spring compressors and you don't need to undo the track rods.
If I labeled it spring replacement I would not be able to tag it correctly , but in the video I did remove and Install the struts so I’m not sure what it matters
This reminds me of how fortunate certain cars are that have “quick struts” available for them. Literally just unbolt the whole assembly and bolt the new one in.
Painful video to watch. Should call it "How NOT to remove/replace your smart car struts". You went through a lot of unnecessary effort. An open socket and a star drive through it takes care of the top strut nut and strut shaft. You don't need two vice grips to hold the strut, or that rediculous drive setup you had. I did mine a few months back with no problems. And don't be too critical of the one point top mount for the strut. It potentially minimizes or eliminates the need for an alignment after replacement.
Did you had to take off the light assembly? I'm doing mine now, I'm stuck because there's not enough space to for the open wrench to turn because of the light
@@bruceblackerby3742 the problem is that the star drive usually strips the end of the Piston rod. I have tried the 'Laser Tools 6270 Clamp For Strut Locks The Mcpherson Strut' which usually works. Alternatively use 'Smart Car Shock Absorber Clamp / Holder Tool - Fortwo & Roadster' but that is a lot more expensive. Really bad design.
The bearing was installed on the wrong side of the top cup. Cup first, then bearing on top and then the rubber bushing. Bearing will do nothing where it is now
Yes but at that point just make the jump to aftermarket with the 4x4 shop unit at 4x4shop.ca... you’ll get way more options like waze and apple car play and it will retain the factory iDrive functions and buttons and look like an OEM unit and it is not expensive.
Hello my friend....You have it all wrong the way you assembled the top portion on the shock....Stupid me I followed your video and its the metal cap that goes first and not the bearing....Why do you think the metal cap was found at the bottom of the shock absorber when your spring broke.....If the bearing was placed first then that cap would have remained in its place...Anyway the proper order is ...METAL CAP.....Bearing ....followed by the Rubber absorber and then the nut to secure everything in place... Please make your viewers aware that you made a big mistake because this does not work......if you do it your way....when you tighten that nut to hold everything in place....That nut will go right through the Rubber absorber hole since the nut has no support below it........for that reason the bearing is mounting in between the rubber and the metal cap
You are installing the bearing on the wrong side of the disc. It goes on top into the rubber part between the disc and the rubber bumber
First you put on the spring, then the spring stop ("cup") then the bearing, then the rubber strut mount, then you put the first nut on and tighten it. I made the mistake of watching this and putting the bearing on first and then the cup on top of it and it drove the shaft through the bearing and stuck up under my "hood" and was useless while limping it home. I took some large washers made for bolting a bottom part of a shocks (you know the ones that go on the stud. First you put on the washer, then push the shock on with the rubber bushing and then another big washer before the nut to make a rubber bushing sandwich on the bottom stud) anyway, I opened the hole of the washer to fit it over the shaft, then I put it on top of the broken bearing to keep it together under the big rubber strut mount. I will now need to buy new strut bearings, but for now my "washer hack" works fine.
I made the same mistake today after watching this video 😅 after full reassembly I was like what a looser I am 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you sooooo much your order of suspension parts was correct. I had tried three variations but yours worked. This video is sooo misleading. The big giveaway that the part order is wrong is you don’t have enough threads on the last nut. To answer others take headlight out to do job easier. Thank you again. ❤
@@sknipey I feel your pain lol
A perfect guide for thickos. As I count myself as a thicko, that was perfect. Thank you.
Some of the more persistent problems with these cars are associated with the SAM module and the clutch/gear selection - with the latter eventually causing the car to refuse to run. I don't know if you plan to look at these if your car is working normally but it would help a lot of owners.
I would double check the order of the parts being loaded on top of the strut, the bearing should sit on top of the spring top plate and the rubber bumper fits over the bearing 🤔
exactly, he mounted it wrong. i did it yesterday and it goes as you said
I’m doing this job right now and all the bits exploded over the workshop floor so was hoping this video would help. Seems he has had the same nightmare I’m having. Will try your edited method thank you.
Thanks for this video, very informative. I have a 2009 diesel passion purchased new. I have had one broken front spring. excessive play in a pin/bush, mass air flow sensor replaced last year and just now had all shocks replaced, MOT test due in two weeks. The air con stopped working after about two years, which I never bothered with, cause it is not really that important to me here in the south east of England.
When I first got the car, I went back to the dealer and said, it only got a little over 270 miles on a tank, how is that economical?
The sales guy just said it will get better.
Today the car gets around 500 miles to a tank, pretty much on just normal driving, it actually manages more on a long drive where I am in 5th for long periods.
I have been up to 90 mph, but drive at 70 or below on motorways. My version only has 45 bhp so it takes
its time getting up to speed. Diesel in the UK is around £7 per gallon.
I have a 2014 purchased new in the passion spec, this was incredibly useful
You could easily refer to the near side strut?
Where can I find this strut assembly online I can not find one anywhere
This is not strut replacement, it is SPRING replacement - you should take the trouble to describe the content accurately ?
A 21mm offset ring spanner and T45 Torx angled key are all you need - we have been an indy MB and Smart workshop for over 10 year.
Use a pair of motorcycle spring compressors and you don't need to undo the track rods.
If I labeled it spring replacement I would not be able to tag it correctly , but in the video I did remove and Install the struts so I’m not sure what it matters
This reminds me of how fortunate certain cars are that have “quick struts” available for them. Literally just unbolt the whole assembly and bolt the new one in.
I guess I'm quite off topic but do anyone know a good site to watch newly released movies online ?
@Preston Immanuel Flixportal :)
@Decker Hayden thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it !
@Preston Immanuel No problem :D
Painful video to watch. Should call it "How NOT to remove/replace your smart car struts". You went through a lot of unnecessary effort. An open socket and a star drive through it takes care of the top strut nut and strut shaft. You don't need two vice grips to hold the strut, or that rediculous drive setup you had. I did mine a few months back with no problems. And don't be too critical of the one point top mount for the strut. It potentially minimizes or eliminates the need for an alignment after replacement.
Did you had to take off the light assembly? I'm doing mine now, I'm stuck because there's not enough space to for the open wrench to turn because of the light
@@DavidJDM hold the open wrench and turn the star drive. Should work.
@@bruceblackerby3742 will try, thanks
@@bruceblackerby3742 the problem is that the star drive usually strips the end of the Piston rod. I have tried the 'Laser Tools 6270 Clamp For Strut Locks The Mcpherson Strut' which usually works. Alternatively use 'Smart Car Shock Absorber Clamp / Holder Tool - Fortwo & Roadster' but that is a lot more expensive. Really bad design.
@@DavidJDM did it work ?
Thanks brother. Doing one tomorrow morning 👌 thanks for the run down.
"J" letters are pronounced as "Y". That was amusing :)
The bearing was installed on the wrong side of the top cup. Cup first, then bearing on top and then the rubber bushing. Bearing will do nothing where it is now
You assumed it wrong. First comes the washer, then the bearing and finally the pillow
Awesome video!
Take the headlight off to give better access
Who doesn’t love a over prices golf cart .
All content is good content ( remember that fans
They're literally cheaper than golf carts
Ok ! But how ?
Nice job
Will a CIC unit that comes from a 5 series without PDC work with a 5 series with PDC?
Yes but at that point just make the jump to aftermarket with the 4x4 shop unit at 4x4shop.ca... you’ll get way more options like waze and apple car play and it will retain the factory iDrive functions and buttons and look like an OEM unit and it is not expensive.
@@gilgonzalez5902 but the CIC has to be in working condition, if not the aftermarket unit won’t work??
@@74vette. no it does not need to be currently working to retrofit the new unit.
You look great in that toycar Nathan; nice to see it's a funcar :)
Where is Don Knotts so you guys can enter the Monte Carlo race later haha.. Ole number 53
Walmart reply'r.. hey mon.. that was actually a beetle not a smart car! Or worse yet.. uhhh.. whos Don Knots haha..
Wrong fitment of the bearing.
such an easy job ,talking for nothing hahahah
Hello my friend....You have it all wrong the way you assembled the top portion on the shock....Stupid me I followed your video and its the metal cap that goes first and not the bearing....Why do you think the metal cap was found at the bottom of the shock absorber when your spring broke.....If the bearing was placed first then that cap would have remained in its place...Anyway the proper order is ...METAL CAP.....Bearing ....followed by the Rubber absorber and then the nut to secure everything in place...
Please make your viewers aware that you made a big mistake because this does not work......if you do it your way....when you tighten that nut to hold everything in place....That nut will go right through the Rubber absorber hole since the nut has no support below it........for that reason the bearing is mounting in between the rubber and the metal cap
First
this guy is lost. its like ABC if you know what your doing its simple. Dont follow this video not good at all.