Just think about it for a second. If he wants multi-console support for this, all he has to do is sub out the PCB for a Brook Retro Board, install an RJ-45, make a SNES Console cable, make or purchase the other cables he wants for the other consoles [Including USB for PC] and he's rocking.
Great video JP! I think you covered it really well, and I'm super happy that you mentioned that (with the vinyl in particular) product quality varies, people need to know how to roll with it. Whenever i cannibalize a junk controller, whether low quality or OEM, i keep the components that i don't need immediately. How many times I've pulled out my junk boxes, just to find the exact thing i needed.. i think that's true satisfaction right there! 😂
Hey! Thanks for watching. Yeah quality varies hugely. The vinyl was bad. Print quality was decent but the install was rough. I also have a boneyard of all the extra parts I discard from a project. It's the best!
Hey yo! I like simple builds for a specific system, they will always be compatible. That said, what could be cool is using multiple PCBs pigtailed together with wireless receivers...multi console plus wireless. 💪 Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! I’m an ex game programmer so I can handle anything software but hardware perplexes me. When you check for continuity, what exactly are you looking for in the reading? Any number at all? I assume it’d be zero if there’s none? Edit : Can you add some links to the components you used?
Awesome! What kind of games did you develop? Re: continuity - you're looking for any number or a beep from the multimeter when checking for a connection at the ground. What you don't want is a number other than 1 or a beep when checking the positive side. That means there's a bridge somewhere if you hear a beep at the positive side. I'll leave links in the description. Thanks for watching!
2 words for ya. Pad Hack.
2 more words for ya
awe some.
Good job.
@@Ratel3000 Thanks for watching!
Just think about it for a second. If he wants multi-console support for this, all he has to do is sub out the PCB for a Brook Retro Board, install an RJ-45, make a SNES Console cable, make or purchase the other cables he wants for the other consoles [Including USB for PC] and he's rocking.
Good timing.. just jump into the snes bandwagon yesterday
Great video JP! I think you covered it really well, and I'm super happy that you mentioned that (with the vinyl in particular) product quality varies, people need to know how to roll with it.
Whenever i cannibalize a junk controller, whether low quality or OEM, i keep the components that i don't need immediately. How many times I've pulled out my junk boxes, just to find the exact thing i needed.. i think that's true satisfaction right there! 😂
Hey! Thanks for watching. Yeah quality varies hugely. The vinyl was bad. Print quality was decent but the install was rough. I also have a boneyard of all the extra parts I discard from a project. It's the best!
Hey JP, how’s everything been going? Any new CRT finds lately? Any major changes in your collection? My personal favorite was your 32” D-Series.
Hey hey! Life's been super busy lately. Haven't had a minute to post to the channel. Bunch of stuff in the queue. 😊
Yo, JP this is the 2nd or so single purpose arcade stick you built. Why wouldn't you go the dongle route and keep the usb encoder?
Hey yo! I like simple builds for a specific system, they will always be compatible. That said, what could be cool is using multiple PCBs pigtailed together with wireless receivers...multi console plus wireless. 💪 Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! I’m an ex game programmer so I can handle anything software but hardware perplexes me. When you check for continuity, what exactly are you looking for in the reading? Any number at all? I assume it’d be zero if there’s none?
Edit : Can you add some links to the components you used?
Awesome! What kind of games did you develop?
Re: continuity - you're looking for any number or a beep from the multimeter when checking for a connection at the ground. What you don't want is a number other than 1 or a beep when checking the positive side. That means there's a bridge somewhere if you hear a beep at the positive side.
I'll leave links in the description. Thanks for watching!
I wanna try this, can you use a Nintendo brand controler or does it have to be the knock off version?
@@mikeofwar4 yes you can use a Nintendo brand controller but the PCB may have different pads and traces. Good luck!