Infiniti JX35/QX60 Nissan Pathfinder - Change Spark Plugs
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- So the mileage is getting up there on your 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Nissan Pathfinder, Infiniti JX35/QX60 and you need to change the spark plugs. There is a bit of a process to changing the plugs, but it can definitely be done. There may be slightly changes between the MYs, but overall, the process should be the same across the entire generation. Check the video out now for all the steps needed.
OEM (Denso 3442 Iridium) Spark plugs - amzn.to/3ky2jt8
Ruthenium Spark Plugs - amzn.to/3dY8gOx
14mm spark plug socket (set) - amzn.to/382akl3
Disclaimer
I assume no liability for property or vehicular damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with any and all tools, including but not limited to electrical tools, power tools, pneumatic tools, any lifting apparatus, including jacks, jack stands, and automotive lifts, manual tools, chemicals, lubricants, and any other instruments used within the video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of all above mentioned tools or equipment, or any other items mentioned above, and all information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself or Nexus Auto. Caution is advised and any practices by the viewer is at user discretion. Any tool or part recommendations or links are given for informational purposes only and it should be assumed to be bought at your own risk. I or Nexus Auto assumes no liability for any damages, premature part failures, or incorrect parts made from purchases made online, including but not limited to tools, parts, instruments, jacks, chemicals, lubricants, etc.
Great instructions! Dealer wanted to charge me $1100 to change my plugs. I said no thanks and did it myself with the help of your video.
Whoa! That is a lot of money! Awesome that you got the job done and saved a lot of money too! Glad the video helped out
1100 That is so out of this world LIBERALISM PRice cost.... unreal
Awesome demonstration on how to do own spark plug change. Wish I could accomplish this task but I'll leave this to the auto professional. Great job doing a detailed task.
@@sandradeyo2476 thanks! I appreciate the great feedback!
Who could not like this video? This is one of the most detailed videos I have seen on UA-cam when it comes to DIY Vehicle Repairs.
Thanks, I really appreciate the video feedback! Glad to hear it is helpful!
Nissan dealership
@@tammieandrzejczuk2573 what about the Nissan Dealership?
It is the answer to the question in the comment.
@@tammieandrzejczuk2573 ohhhh hahaha. I get it now. That went over my head, but very funny! 😂😂 I can be slow sometimes.
Followed the video to a T for my ‘18 Pathy…worked like a charm!
Thanks for the easy to follow video…and for saving me $200 from my mechanic ($750 from dealership!).
I did replace the manifold gasket ($24 CAN), but didn’t replace the throttle body gasket. Amazingly, the manifold gasket looked brand new!
Took me just over 2hrs (watched & re-watched certain portions of the video to double check progress). Well done with this thorough walk-through tutorial vid!!
Awesome news! Great to hear that the video helped out and you got those plugs done! Money saved is always a win lol. Good idea on replacing that gasket too.
I appreciate all the feedback! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Great video, very thorough. The only addition I would add is to put clean rags or those blue shop towels into the lower intake ports after you remove the upper. It is very easy to drop a socket, bolt or whatever in there and can cause major damage if you don't catch it before starting the engine. Just an ounce of prevention.
That is an awesome tip, I am with you there. I wish I had included that in the video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for this video. My shop was going to charge me $850 to get this done. I paid $60 for the plugs, borrowed some tools, and finished in 3hrs. I had trouble removing the front 3 plugs because they were seized up in there, and I have an extra fuse box in the top left corner that I had to remove. One of my hose clamps was previously replaced with a metal worm hose clamp so that was a little bit of a pain but all in all this went exactly as you described.
No problem at all! That's big savings ..awesome stuff! Very happy to hear the video helped out, even with those hiccups! Thanks for the great feedback!
Thank you so much for all the help! Great video! I literally worked right with your video guidance! Thanks to you I was able to do much needed service to my dad's 2014 qx60! I just finished changing the plugs! It took me about 3hours with a couple breaks and I'm no mechanic we also replaced a headlight ballast, led running lights and new headlight bulbs, new air filter and cabin filter. All together it was a 8 hour day thank you for including torque specs and bolt patterns for everything it really helped!
No problem at all. That's awesome news that you got it done, and so much other stuff done too! Awesome stuff. Thanks for leaving the awesome feedback and thanks for watching!
Nexus this was one of the best "How to" videos I've seen on youtube. You saved me a lot of money. Thank you so much for posting it.
Thanks, I very much appreciate that feedback!
Amazing tutorial! I watched it for several times before starting it. Just did what you showed. Took near 4 hrs to complete it. I also cleaned throttle body as you suggested. Two minor differences on my 2014 qx60: 1) no clip on the air filter housing; 2) a screw next to the two hoses behind the intake manifold need to be taken off. I changed ignition coil boots and intake manifold gasket as suggested by Rockauto. Old ones are in good condition. They are cheap. Just replaced them. Your video is very helpful. Thank you!
No problem at all! Happy to hear the video helped out. Interesting couple of changes to your 2014 MY. That's great info. And great idea with changing the coil boots and intake manifold gasket. You're there...perfect time for sure!
Very informative. Constructive criticism: 1. While working the back 3 spark plugs, the PCV Valve on the left may have been changed as well. (90% of Smog Failure for $25) 2. Change out the Plenum Intake Gasket and tidy up the Intake Manifold ports. 3. Clean up buildup varnish on the Throttle Body before reassembling. After watching your Video and reading "RTFM" the Nissan OE Manual the job took 3.75hrs. Thank you for taking the time out for other's concerns. Well Done.
Thanks, much appreciated. I completely agree with all 3 of your points and is great info for future watchers. Glad to hear the video helped. Thanks for the great feedback!
For 2014 Nissan Pathfiner, dealer quoted ~$500 for spark plugs. Bought denso plugs (maybe not needed but we just got the car new to us - ~90), the gasket ($25 at the dealer) Nissan PCV valve for $20 (dealer quoted ~$90 to replace), and the hose clamp tool (~$20 on amazon for a cheap one). Got the job done in a night and saved. Thank you. If you tube would allow, I would have sent a few $$ to say thanks. My math ~$600 done by the dealer, about $150 with a new hose clamp tool. $450 in savings and a new tool. All good. Derek
That's awesome news Derek! Happy to hear the video helped out and all went well. And money saved too!! I appreciate the great feedback. Thanks and take care!
Just purchased a 2016 QX60 & unsurprisingly, previous owner(s) neglected essential maintenance. Planning on tackling this job next week, love the video! Super informative & thorough, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
No problem at all! Sucks to hear when people don't maintain their vehicle, but awesome to hear you're on top of it!
Super amazing tutorial. From fellow technician who hasn’t done this job before, you are a great teacher. I love how you talk about doing the hard parts first, something I like to do myself. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, I very much appreciate the feedback. Glad to find someone who takes the same methodology too.
Thank you so much friend. With your help I was able to change out the plugs on my 2015 QX60! I left the throttle body on, and disconnected the top brake fluid container and the top fuse box which gave me room to move the manifold just enough to reach the back plugs. A++
Awesome news. Glad the video helped out, and you made your own changes to make it work for you! Thanks for the great feedback, love to hear it.
I just wanted to say thanks for making this video, it gave me the confidence to do this myself. Wasn't hard just took some time.
That's awesome news, glad to hear the video helped out and you got the job done. I really appreciate that feedback
Same just bought a 13 pathfinder got it dirt cheap previous owner thought it has a bad trans it has bad rear wheel bearings doing plugs ones in there look old
@@brendanlorente1968 awesome, sounds like you got a great deal for a fairly simple fix. Glad to hear this video was helpful.
Thank you for this video. I'm helping my cousin change the spark plugs on a 2013 Pathfinder tomorrow.
He knows all about this stuff, but I'm trying to learn. I wanted to get an idea on what to expect, and this was very informative.
No problem at all! Glad to hear the video helped you out with your cousins Pathfinder. Love to hear you're learning too! Never stop!
A HUGE thank you!!. Wish I could give more than 1 thumbs up. As someone that has never done anything in the engine, this video gave me the confidence and walked me through everything. For anyone doing this (mine was 2015 Pathfinder), GET THE HOSE CLAMP TOOL, you will thank him later. Have the right tools, take your time, and you can do it.
Thanks Edward...I really appreciate the feedback. I am happy to hear the video helped you get the job done. And it is not the easiest job for sure, so glad you were able to tackle it! Thanks for watching
Can u tell me what brand plugs you put in
Awesome video summary! It was too intense for me. I brought it to a dealer for $550. My dashcam stayed on and the tech was able to change out all 6 in 60 minutes. Ridiculous! I would've ended up with extra screws and parts...
That is crazy! Even on my grand Prix V6, I can get the whole job done in about 20 mins, and 10 of the those mins are one plug in the back under the alternator lol. This was definitely a longer, more particular process. One way or another, at least you got it all done. Glad to hear the video was information...appreciate that feedback.
So how did you get your dash cam to stay on while he was doing the work? Because you always have to question (on your mind) whether or not they actually did those back spark plugs or not LOL
@@NexusAuto movf7 9uu
Just finished this job, thanks for the very thorough walk through…. Word of advice, take your time, it’s doable :)
Thanks for the great feedback. Glad to hear the video helped to get the work done.
As your description say, our mileage is getting up there on our 2013 JX35 and spark plugs need changing. Thanks so much for making this video. I'll be tackling this procedure soon.
No problem at all. Glad to hear the video will be helpful. This job definitely needs some time and patience, but it can definitely be done.
@@NexusAuto Thank you once again for your instructional video on how to change the plugs on the JX. I tackled it this past weekend and like you said patients in needed when completing this job. Once the job was completed I started up the engine and it had a high idle that wouldn't lower. Long story short I had forgotten to plug back in the air flow sensor which caused the high idle and to illuminate the traction control light. After finding out and plugging back in the sensor the JX purred like a kitten and is much more responsive.
Thanks again!
@@Athwndr68 that's awesome! Glad to hear everything worked out, even with that idle issue. And happy to hear you got that figured out too. It seems so needlessly complicated to do, nice to hear your JX is running strong!
I really appreciate all the feedback, thank you for watching!
@@NexusAuto It's been a while. I had a question, have you tackled changing out the CV boot on your JX/QX? I notice our front right (passenger) inner boot will be needing replacement soon.
Thank you for the video. It took me a little long due to all the rewinding on the video. The tools makes life easier.
No problem at all. Happy to hear the video helped out...even with the rewinding lol. Thanks for the great feedback
@@NexusAuto if I may pick your brain, what are common causes for the 2013 Nissan Pathfinder to have a long crank before starting? My SUV started having long cranks and it always turns on. The cranks are shorter when it’s cold but much longer when it’s warm. I was hoping changing the sparks plug would help, but did not. Thanks in advance.
@Javier Ramos I would say, if you haven't checked it out already, is either a bad or sulfating battery, or corrosion in the cables. The fact that it's a harder start when warm leads me to believe it could be line corrosion (an increase in resistance in the lines), but can't say for sure. There's so many causes for that...everything from a bad coil to fuel pump could cause that. But if it were me, I would be checking the battery and cables first
@@NexusAuto thank you, I’ll start there. I did change the battery too recently and do remember the old one having some corrosion. I’ll update you.
@@javierr1588 sounds good. Let me know how it goes
Really well described...and excellent insights into the psychology of taking on these projects! (Knowing what is objectively frustrating/difficult up front is what the service manuals never tell you..probably because the corporate authors are reluctant to admit any thing is less than ideally engineered for maintenance! Thanks again...)
No problem. I completely agree, and glad to hear those insights make a difference. Thanks for the great feedback
Awesome video dude. Keep up the Great Work. You have help me keep up the maintenance on my JX35. Have done all the preventive maintenance myself because of your videos. Thanks alots and keep the videos coming.
Great feedback! It is always great to hear how these videos help owners such as yourself. Glad to hear they have been working out. I will definitely have more in the future. Thanks for being a great viewer!
great video, just did my sparks, men what hell of a job
Thanks! Happy to hear the video helped out and you got the plugs done. It is a tricky job! Awesome news. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks, saved me some time. Factory repair manual says you must remove the top cowl and wiper arms, 3.2 hours labor. Not so, just like you show, intake plenum comes out with no trouble.
Absolutely. No need to touch the cowl or wiper arms at all. Glad to hear the video helped with that...that alone made the video worth it. Thanks for the feedback
Great video my only suggestion is the original spark plugs needed a 14mm socket to remove and a 16mm to install
👍🏻
Thanks for posting, in case someone encounters this. My new plugs were 14mm, but some aftermarket ones may have a different size requirement. Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
Awesome job you did. Best Video to learn how to replace Spark Plugs. Thank you for your great work.
No problem at all! Thank you for watching!
Thank for showing each bolt and step. You have a new subscriber!
That's awesome! Appreciate the sub! And thanks for watching
YESSSS been waiting for this, thank you for this my man 👍👍
No problem at all. It was a long time coming. Hope it helps!
you probably dont give a damn but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Cullen Gunnar instablaster ;)
@Kameron Ronald i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kameron Ronald It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
Great tutorial, done in a manner which do it yourselfer can follow.
Awesome to hear that it'll be helpful. Thanks for the great feedback!
Thanks for the video, it did helped me a lot specially taking out the manifold
No problem at all
Great video - really like your style of filming and voice over. Very confidence inspiring.
Thanks! That's great feedback! Awesome!
Excellent video for the beginner and for those more experienced you pointed out the little hangups. It would be wise to change out the gaskets and inspect the coils for damage as they are prone to cracking at the tip. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. And great tips too. Perfect time to get all that done. Thanks for watching!
Which gaskets are you referring to, the intake manifold gasket?
@@eleven8948 that would be correct. Perfect time to replace them, since you're already there
@@NexusAuto Thank You
@@eleven8948 No problem at all
excellent video, special attention to the torque specs for both the throttle body and intake manifold. other videos did not list them
Thanks, appreciate the feedback. Much appreciated
Thanks for this detailed video..it's really helpful..I belive my 2016 Pathfinder is coming up for a sparkplug change.
No problem at all. This video will definitely help out on your Pathfinder. Glad to see that you found this video. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this informative video. It does looks daunting to me. But I still decided to do it on my own following your video. Your video helps a lot!
BTW, do you think a little bit of dielectric grease between spark plug and coil would be a good thing to apply or for qx60 it doesn't need?
@@hh9kw7gf3n Awesome news. Hope it all goes well. Just set aside a decent amount of time to do it. It will all work out.
For these cars, dielectric grease is unneeded. The set up of the coils and the aluminum heads means it is not needed. Same with antiseize on the plug threads.
@@NexusAuto hello Nexus, I am about to change ignition plug for my 100k miles qx60, a little bit nervous. One thing come to my mind that do you think I should replace the ignition coil at this time also? How long does the ignition coil last averagely?
@@hh9kw7gf3n I understand being nervous...it is one of the more 'tricky' spark plug jobs I've done. But I think you'll be fine. Just set aside a lot of time and make sure to have some patience...it can get frustrating.
Great question on the coils. These days, ignition coils are recommended to be replaced at around 100k miles, so you are right spot on, timing wise. I have known people to push them to twice that with no issues. But since you will have the car apart anyways, if you have the budget to get them, I say go for it. Better than having to take off the intake manifold twice.
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much
Great video. I always blow each plug hole out with air before removing the plug. Just to ensure no dirt would drop in the hole. Just a suggestion.
And it's a great suggestion. I completely agree! Thanks for watching and the great feedback!
@Nexus Auto What online reference do you use ? Which do you think is best? I'm not a professional mechanic. I'm a retired engineer that likes to do my own work on my vehicles . Thanks in advance.
@@chrisd1328 I actually have a service manual for these vehicles, but I also use Prodemand. Unfortunately, they used to offer an individual plan, which I don't think they offer any more, and the full plan lease is pricey for someone who will just manage their own vehicle. AllData still offers a DIY plan that is pretty affordable and you can get a lot of repair info from it. Worth checking out for sure.
you saved me $500 bucks! your da man
Awesome! That is big money saved. Happy to hear the video helped out
Excellent video. Thank you.
No problem
Out of all the dyi videos these on the qx60 are the most helpful to me because you explain the warnings the torque the loose and tighten pattern everything. I haven't seen one where you change the pcv valve when I get mine torn down in a couple days I am going to change that too. It is on top of the back valve cover and looks like it is gonna be the other end of one of the hoses connected to the back of the intake. Is it a good idea to change coils too I've always heard if you change the plugs to change the coils too 🤔. Anyway you got it going on keep up the good work
Thanks, it's great to hear these videos are so helpful! I haven't done the PCV valve yet...one day in the future. For the coils, that is a yes and now question. Technically speaking, you should not need to do the coils, as they have a long service life and things rarely go wrong with them. There are instances on coils these days outlasting the cars they are in. That being said. it makes sense to change it early on some vehicles since they are so hard to get to. I would say the same here. Should you get a coil failure, especially one of the back coils, then it is a giant headache to get to. So it doesn't hurt at all to replace them as you are there. Also, since you have to move the intake manifold, it would not hurt to do the Intake Manifold Gasket as well.
Thanks for the great feedback. I do appreciate it!
Thank you too
thank you !
Need to do it on my JX35 115k miles and going to use your video for guiding ;)
Love this car i tried to picked up new 2020 today with only 8,000 miles but didnt like it
A lot of small things on my 2013 JX35 fully loaded are not even close in 2020 and many options are missing ( aka front headlamp adjustments )
I am going to keep my car for another 3-5 years so plugs , struts , shocks and other suspension parts in order :)
Awesome, glad to hear the video will help out. I love my JX, and have no intentions of getting rid of it. I am due for my suspension next year. I will have videos then, not sure when you plan to do yours, but keep an eye out.
@@NexusAuto btw there is a way to buy entire front strut assembly for 160 in december if u ineresting i can give u link to infiniti oem shop in IL
I got my both sides for 400 shipped . Also real shocks on the way plus sway bars and sway bushings front rear , they are due for second time replacement . I use oem only . Not sure about tie rods yet looks like they still ok on 120k miles
@@silvergameofthrone nice! Sounds like you got a lot done. Thanks for the offers on the parts as well. I have my suppliers here in Canada so I'm good. Very much appreciated!
@@NexusAuto ya i forget about Canada :)
@@NexusAuto Just did my today . Also adjusted OEM Denso spark plugs to 0.043" per spec they were not even close around 0.02-0.03" .
Question : I don't remember how it was before but the idle around 650RPM doesn't stay all time the same level .
It has a very little little up/down move on idle ... Is it normal ? Car drives great overall i also clean MAF and throttle body but the idle is not as stable as on my Q70 325HP
I know you will do this! It's the most simplest video to remove the intake. Thank you! What I concern is those small vacuum hoses. They'll break or crack easily?
They can break or crack, especially as these cars age. As I used some care, and I clean my engine twice a year, my hoses are in very good condition, so did not have any problems. Be careful not to break them if you do decide to change your plugs
Thank you so much, I have 2018
Really appreciated and enjoyed your video here. Made easy work of Changing plugs on my 2014 pathfinder. I really question your comments on not using anti-seize on the plugs though. When removing the old plugs a couple of them were really difficult coming out for the first half dozen turns, like dry and grinding. No way would I have put the new ones in dry. Not using anti-seize compound might be OK in some cases but you sure can’t go wrong using it anyway. Again, thanks for the great video!
No problem at all. Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped out.
The antiseize topic is one debated significantly to this day. I personally learned waaaaay back on Engines with cast iron heads, and antiseize was a must due to heat and dissimilar metals between the plugs and cast heads.
For aluminum heads, there are some more debated issues that come up
1. The biggest thing everyone talks about is that the antiseize slightly changes torque specifications. On cast heads, this wasn't a big deal. But on aluminum heads, a few extra ft lbs can actually lead the cross threading in an aluminum head. I can't begin to tell you how much of an issue that could be.
2. COP coils and spark plugs ground out the electrode through the cylinder heads. The antiseize causes these grounding characteristics to change.
3. Antiseize will change the heat range of a spark plug by a few degrees. Once again, on a cast head, this isn't too much of an issue, but on aluminum heads, this heat change can cause the spark plugs to fire incorrectly.
There are actually many service manuals for modern cars that specifically say DON'T put antiseize on, and it's always on cars with aluminum heads.
Now, the debate comes in as many 'old school' people actually still put antiseize on, and have 0 issues. So...what's the deal, right?
I have a few theories.
1. I have spoken to techs saying they have encountered various issues, but never confirmed it myself...it's rare. So maybe it's just dealing with the small 'what-ifs'
2. There really is no issue, and the precautions are unnecessary.
3. These are significant potential issues, and people are unaware and have been getting lucky.
For the 3rd one, there is a potential that someone could put some antiseize on their plugs, think it's fine, but 8 months later their car is running rich and they have no idea why. No one will check the antiseize, so the issue goes on misdiagnosed and people are left headscratching. But that's just an example of a theory.
Really, as long as your torqued correctly and only put a light dab, I think you'll be fine. I completely get the skepticism, especially with dry and grinding. If you are ever doing plugs on a car with aluminum heads, warm it just a little before doing the work. Not enough to burn you, but the heat expansion will prevent that dry/grinding. Or doing it on a hot day, too.
Thanks again for watching and the awesome feedback on everything. Much appreciated.
Great Job!
@@jimmcgroarty6163 thanks!
Great video! Can you please increase your audio volume? With everything at max volume, can barely hear you.
Thanks!!
I'll keep it in mind. I've never had a complaint on the audio, so I've never really addressed it. I'll make note of that in the future. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I've been awaiting a detailed presentation as well.
I was a bit intimidated by accessing the back plugs. This video has influenced my confidence in taking on the challenge of the manifold.
Question....Dielectric grease in the coils. Usually helps prevent coils from becoming "stuck on". Why the choice not to add it?
Looking forward.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Great question on the dielectric grease. In the 'good ol days', I used to put them on the plug wires, both at the plugs and coils/distributor, because the connections were fully exposed to the elements under the hood. Water, salt, dirt, etc, used to get to the plug boots and cause them to stick. I have not seen the issue on modern cars, such as this one, because they are in a sealed cylinder and are no longer exposed to the elements. Worked on tons of newer cars, never a stuck coil.
@@NexusAuto Got it.
I asked for the "motor heads of the before time" who remember exactly what you portrayed.
Thanks.
@@Still-Learning Absolutely. I know exactly what you mean. That is why I thought it was a great question too. Most people these days don't even know the struggle of trying to get stuck plug wires off! I can tell right off the bat you have likely worked on some older cars before, or at least have knowledge of them (not to be presumptuous)
@@NexusAuto Yeah, I took auto-mechanics in high school. Lot of that info stuck with me.
I'm a DIYer and really enjoy doing it myself.
Plugs, brakes, oil, tires, filters, battery, fluids, minor electrical, and how to read indicators should be skills every car driver/owner should have, accept the auto industry has lobbied to reduce this knowledge as selling maintenance and warranty packages is their bread and butter (profit).
They can't make money off an educated car owner.
Just yesterday, taught my 14 year to Use a scissor jack, remove a flat tire, install and torque down the lugs. Click, click.
Getting him ready for ownership and saving money on labor; to be educated and capable.
Keep up the good videos and be safe.
-Later
@@Still-Learning I'm with you there. The more we know, the more in control we are, and the more pride you can have in your ride.
That is amazing, with your 14 year old. Unfortunately, not enough people do that these days! I am 100% for that. He will value that information for a lifetime!
Thanks for all the support and be safe as well!
Once again a life saver. Many thanks!
No problem at all. Glad the video helped out!
Thanks,it’s very good
No problem at all
What are the torque specs and pattern to install the intake manifold? I just want to be sure i dont mess up the order and break anything. Thanks!
Check the video at the 23:00 mark. It shows the exact order to tighten the bolts and what the torque specs are.
@@NexusAutoThanks! That helps! Just worried about the pattern and over torquing the nuts and bolts. Start with the 4 bolts/nuts and then the outside bolts/nuts. Nuts 61 inch pounds and bolts 8 ft/lbs.
@E A no problem. Definitely best to make sure you have the pattern and specs right. You got it!
Thank you bro, from russia. Good job!
Awesome, thank you! Appreciate the feedback!
Great video, thanks
No problem at all.
Thanks for another Awesome video.
Thanks, much appreciated. Glad to hear it is helpful
Great video it help me to do my valve cover in One day .Muchas Gracias keep it up !!👍👍👍
That's awesome news. The video wasn't intended for that, so I am glad you found it and it helped out. Thanks for the great feedback
I would forget which screws go where when it's time to put em back 🥴
@jonesldy haha fair enough. There's a lot to remember. Hey, if you have an extra screw or two when you're done, then you didn't need them anyways 🤣🤣🤣
My 2018 pathfinder calls for ngk laser iridium
If that is the one it calls for, then go for them for sure. When Infiniti revised the engine in, looks like they changed the plugs too. Go for it!
I was following along great. Then discovered my throttle body bolts are stripped and cannot get them out. Any suggestions?
Awesome to hear the video is helpful, and sucks to hear about the throttle body bolts.
First (I know, it's obvious), but get new bolts.
Second, there is various ways to remove stripped out bolts. But I find the easiest is to use bolt extractors. I'll include a link as an example, but check around online or at your local parts store to see If they have good quality ones. It'll save a lot of headaches.
a.co/d/20s0R2x
I'm not endorsing this brand, as I never tried these ones. But you can get the idea. Use those to remove the bolts, continue on with the work, and install your new bolts. And you should hopefully good to go.
Another great video!
Thanks, much appreciated. More to come in the future for sure!
Have u ever replaced rocker gaskets ? My both sides are leaking wirh 140k miles and I am in the middle to replace them but I can't find a video how to do it for our cars ... what a pain 😢
Damn! That is not an easy job! Unfortunately, I haven't had to do mine at this point, so I don't have a video on it.
Muchas Gracias bery helpful
No problem!
The fsm mentions having to change the lower intake gasket when removing the upper plenum... would you say that's necessary?
Necessary? No. Recommended? Definitely. Since it's such a pain to change the lower intake gasket, and you're right there, I would say to change it as the same time. Then you know you're good for a long while
Great video
👍👍👍👍
Thanks, much appreciated.
I found out that the mechanic I went to he only replaced the front spark plugs and he kept the back as what they are.
Seriously??? That is so underhanded. I am sorry to hear that, but glad to hear you got it figured out. Did you get the back plugs changed?
i did watch a lots video.. do the same job . but I like your very much . easy learned. TKS
Thank you! I appreciate that feedback. Glad you found the video!
I was told you have to replace the gasket between the manifold and spark plugs too while replacing the plugs?
Yep, it's definitely a great idea. It's a lot of work to take off that intake manifold, so might as well change the gasket too!
Hi the video was great I change my spark plugs but then ran into a problem my vaccum was off so I just rented a torque wrench from Auto Zone, I'll let you know if it works.
That sucks, but definitely let me know how it goes. Good luck.
@@NexusAuto I found the problem the hose to the PVC value was connected to the joint its all fix now
@@maxinejohnson375 awesome news. Happy to hear you found the issue. Sometimes it's just one simple thing that cause a whole lot of frustration!
Great informative video... how often or many miles on car before you change out the spark plug and coils ? Thanks!
Great, thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
As per Infiniti, they should be done around 105000 miles/170000kms. Coils have an even longer interval. Pretty much only change them if there is an issue. But since it's a fair bit of work to get to them, if you are really concerned, I say to change the coils when you change the plugs. But that is just preventative, and not required.
Looks like your spark plug tube seals need changing by the oil on the spark plug threads.
They may be starting to go. They are not as wet as it seems, but it is still noticeable. Bit of a bigger job, so maybe another time. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though, very much appreciated.
Did you need to replace the throttle body and manifold gaskets?
Ahhh...I see now that you mention that you didn't replace the manifold gasket.
@@shawnmcknight5960 you got it. You don't have to, and to this day, I have no issues with the gaskets. That being said, to get to the gaskets is a pain (as you see in the video, so it wouldn't hurt to change the gaskets as you're there already.
Good job
Thanks! Much appreciated
I watched this video and changed my plugs and coils -- thanks! I now need to replace bank 1 cat. I already replaced bank 2 and was able to figure out how to get to the bolts on the top after a lot of work. It appears getting the 2 bolts that fasten from the upper side of the cat will require removing the intake manifold again. I purchased a useless repair manual online that doesn't include this information. I don't know what manuals you have but do you have a way to confirm procedures for removing those bolts? Would greatly appreciate any help!
No problem at all. Happy to hear the video helped with the plugs, and great move replacing the coils while you were there too.
For the Bank 1 Cat, as per the manual, you don't need to remove the intake manifold. But there is still complicated work involved...especially if your model is AWD.
Since I haven't done my cats at this point, I am not sure if all the steps are required or if there's any workarounds. Here is the info from the manual
1. Remove the cowl top grille and the lower cowl top extension.
2. Remove the right front wheel and tire (AWD models only).
3. Remove the engine under cover.
4. Remove the fender protector side cover (AWD models only).
5. Remove the front exhaust tube, hanger and heat insulator.
6. Remove the propeller shaft and propeller shaft center bearing (AWD models only).
7. Remove the RH front axle shaft (AWD models only).
8. Remove the RH three way catalyst support brackets.
9. Remove heated oxygen sensor 2 (bank 1), air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 (bank 1).
a. Remove harness connector of each sensor, and disconnect the harness from the bracket and middle clamp.
10. Remove exhaust manifold and three way catalyst heat shields with power tool.
11. Remove the three way catalyst (bank 1) by loosening the bolts first and then removing the nuts and through bolts.
Looks like the cowl needs to be removed to gain top access, and if you have AWD, the propeller shaft, bearing, and right front axle needs to be disconnected too. Hopefully there is a way around some of this. Hope that helps shine some light on it.
@@NexusAuto I don't have AWD so that should help some. I actually got a chance to ask an Inifiniti Mechanic the question and he said everything can be done from underneath but, unless I drill out those 2 stud bolts from the Cat, I have no idea how that is possible. If removing the cowl allows access to the exhaust manifold bolts, that makes much more sense. Now I just have to figure out how to remove the cowl. Thanks for your help! Is there a toque spec for the manifold bolts?
@@bradleyzohn6387 Oh for sure. No AWD seems to take out a good portion of the work, so that will help for sure.
I got the specs for you. Should you need to remove the studs themselves, they are torqued to 11 ft/lbs. The nuts are rated at 24 ft/lbs all around.
@@NexusAuto It's done (well almost). I didn't have to remove exhaust manifold (thank goodness). When you remove the cowl pan under the cowl cover, those upper bolts on the cat are totally accessible. It is slightly tricky to remove the plastic shield that covers them but definitely doable without removing exhaust manifold. Unfortunately, I had one of the bolts from the underside break off in the threaded holes of the manifold and had to order a better tool to get it out of there. So I snugged up the remaining 3 bolts for the time being and will torque everything down when I get the remains of the bolt out of there. Your help was essential though so thank you very much!
@Bradley Zohn no problem at all! Happy to hear that everything (overall) went well. Broken bolts suck, but at least you're on your way to fixing that too! Thanks for all the feedback, it's much appreciated
Thank a lot for the video it helped good .
I have one more question
I found oil in spark plug for cylinder 6 ?
Do you think i need to change the cover or just change cubes seal for spark plug?
Hmmm, I think you need to change the cover, but i'm not 100% sure. Only because as far as I know, they don't sell the seals separately, but I haven't checked recently, so i'm not 100% sure on this, tbh. If you can find the seals, great. But to my knowledge, they come as one piece. And if so, you need to change that whole cover.
Thank you for your help
23:10
If you know the right part for it will be great 😊 I don’t wanna ccorder wrong one 👍🏻 its the front one the one for cylinders 2-4-6
@@saidhalym8126 No problem at all
I *believe* the part number is 13264-JA10B, but I would recommend verifying with Nissan/Infiniti, just to be sure
Does the manifold gaskets need to be replaced for this?
It doesn't need to be replaced, but considering what's involved in taking this apart, I would absolutely recommend doing it at the same time
Any information 2013 Infiniti JX35 how to change
change starter
Unfortunately, I don't have a video on the starter at this time.
@@NexusAuto okay,when you have videos next time let me know, thank you
@@linzheung5166 will do, for sure!
Where are u located
@@Richardcardiel-xs2yl I'm in Ontario, Canada
they usually can last up to 100k miles?
Yep, as per Nissan/Infiniti service intervals. It's becoming a common number for cars that use Iridium or Platinum plugs
My 2018 over 86000 miles ,so do should change that
As per Infiniti, the plugs should be replaced at 105000 miles. I did do mine earlier than that, but you are not technically at the interval yet
I bought spark plugs from auto zone and after put them in my car start running rough what do you think I should do? Because the mechanic scanner tells its intake flew system
Funny how it came up as the intake, but really it was the back plugs.
Would u recommend me buying an jx35 2013 I'm looking for a reliable suv?
*sigh*.
This is hard for me to answer, as I am biased as I own a JX35.
The car is a great car...I love it. As long as everything works, and the car is maintained, you will be ok.
However....
This car has 2 major Achilles heels. The CVT transmission and the transfer case are very problematic, and if not meticulously taken care of, they will fail, and they are very expensive to replace. Other than that, everything is good overall.
If you find a low mileage JX35 (or QX60 in 2014 and above) and it has been taken care of, go for it. However, if the mileage is high or you unsure of the service records, maybe stay away.
Is oem plugs better or the ones you used?
Can I use other brands too?
You can use other brands, but the recommended ones for nissan/Infiniti is NGK or Denso. These are the trusted brands. The OEMs are always the ideal ones to go with. The ones I used are supposed to be a newer one, above Iridium plugs (the recommended plugs are Iridium). Seems to be good so far, but can't say they are for sure any better than the stock Iridium plugs.
Have you notice any difference now since it’s been a year?
It’s fit qx60 2017?
Yeah, should be the same for the 2017 QX60 3.5L overall. There may be small changes, but overall, the process should be the same
Thanks
No problem Mashal!
Do you think is a good idea to replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump? I'm trying to avoid the hefty cost. Thank
Hi Luis. So this is an answer that is completely up to your preference.
The thing is, aftermarket pumps generally work very well and, while I have seen them fail, it is not a common occurrence.
On the other end, *IF* it should fail, then you have the annoying job of having to replace it again. An OEM pump has a greater chance of longevity.
So it becomes a matter of cost savings vs peace of mind.
Personally, I have not changed the fuel pump on the QX60 yet, but I normally look at 2 things. What the cost savings is, and how hard it is to change it. If its not a hard job, I will go with an aftermarket unit. If it's a giant pain to change, then I will go OEM
Worth also noting that, as of now, I have not had an aftermarket fuel pump fail on me yet. They are pretty reliable.
@@NexusAuto Thank you for taking the time to respond. I apologize in advance, I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my Qx60 since you have worked on this type of car for a while because I've already paid the dealer to run a diagnostic they said the car needed new transmission $4400, which I did put a new one to weeks ago. Turn out the transmission was one of the issues. Here are the symptoms I have now:
-Check Engine Light code P0420(only code) which is Catalytic Converter Bank 1 "needs" replacement.
-Start engine misfires first time cold and second time it starts.
-sluggish driving
-If the gas tank is full it drives sluggish but it kind of does the job, but if gas tank is below half, it starts jerking and won't drive past 50mph.
-It starting leaking near the oil pan, it's possible the oil cooler seal.
-Ive found the coolant tank reservoir empty few days ago, Ive refilled it and has kept the level just fine "checking everyday several times a day."
-Ive even thought the head gasket was blown, but there aren't any signs of that I checked the engine oil cap and dipstick oil looks ok.
The car wasn't leaking anything until probably 2 weeks ago.
I've just come from the infiniti dealer, getting parts estimates. Talked to one the mechanics, and he said if it's giving that only code, it's probably it. He said if it's misfiring cause of sparkplugs, fuel injectors or oxygen sensors the car would've give out a code in respect to those. I've asked about the fuel pump, he said if the fuel pump is failing the car will turn off while driving or not start at all. He also said in this type of engine the head gasket it's pretty realible.
If it is the catalytic converter I need to replace, the OEM part is $877, aftermarket is somewhere between $150 to $250. The thing is that Ive already dropped $5k on the car in the last month. I'd probably go with an aftermarket catalytic converter but I don't feel confident about that since everything in the car is original this would be the first aftermarket part. Anyway, I'm driving the car to work which is about 60 miles round trip and the car does the job, it drives funny but nothing scary. I love my car I really want to fix it asap. Any thoughts? Brands recommended? Really appreciate you Nexus. Take care 🙏🏻
@@amoryunidad Hi Luis. No problem at all. I always try and help whenever I can. Hopefully I can help with this one too.
First, sorry to hear about the transmission issue. That is a hefty bill! Hopefully I never have to encounter that. Just curious...what is your mileage? This is just for my own info. So far, my drivetrain works well, but I know it is the achilles heel of these SUVs.
P0420 is a Cat code, but it could be a bunch of causes, as I think you may already know. The rough engine starts, sliggish driving, all can be derived from the P0420 issue
The mechanic is generally right, but I want to caution that this is not always the case. I have personally worked on cars where an issue was diagnosed down to a failed part, and it should have thrown additional codes, and did not. I just had one on a SUV where the wheel speed sensor was bad, but it was throwing other ABS codes for other sensors, but not the wheel speed sensor itself. Fixed the WSS, and the issue went away. But it is *likely* that the CAT is the issue if no other codes come up, just not a guarantee.
More issues huh? Low coolant and oil leaks. Sounds like your QX60 is having a rough go. Hopefully you can confirm the oil seal and the low coolant is a one off. At least the coolant level is holding up and no signs of an internal leak. I also agree with the mechanic here, the head gaskets on Nissan VQ engines are generally very reliable.
The fuel issue at half tank is different...I don't think that is related to the P0420 at all. I have seen weirding things happening, but these 2 systems are almost completely unrelated. That sounds like a weak fuel pump to me. But that would need more testing. His assessment that the weak fuel pump would cause shut offs or none starts is true, but only if the pump is really bad. If the pump has some high resistance in it, low voltage, or anything like that, it can cause lower efficiency but not stalls. So it can't be dismissed. However, I would first fix the P0420 code and go from there.
As much as it would suck to pay out more money, I would advise to bring the car to someone who can use a scan tool to run a full diagnostic on the entire fuel and air system on the car. They will be able to see the O2 efficiency, how the injectors are firing, same with spark, any compression issues, etc. If they all come back clean, then there is a extremely high chance the issue is the cat.
That is a huge price difference. It is worth noting that there is multiple cats on this SUV. Bank 1 is the one at the front of the engine. Last year I replaced the one underneath my JX, which is part of the y-pipe that goes to each front cat. I replaced with an aftermarket pipe, for the same reason (cost). It has now been in use for 1.5 years, and there is no issues at all. I can't guarantee all brands of aftermarket pipes, but it is definitely an option. I used one from a brand called Walker ( I will be making a video on this later on). So I would say to definitely consider an aftermarket one, but if you want your QX to be as stock as possible, nothing beats OEM.
As mentioned above, the next step is to get the car scanned and check the efficiency of all other sensors/plugs/injectors/etc and make a decision based on those numbers.
@@NexusAuto The car has 206k miles. It looks in great shape interior and exterior black on black. The car was giving a code that the transmission had a metal to metal contact, so I put a new one. I bought it 0 miles, never had a leak and all of a sudden coolant in reservoir tank disappears and small oil leak near the oil pan. Im probably guessing that because of the extra pressure the engine had due to all the issues going on the thing started to break apart. That's my main concern that I only have this car and need it to go to work. So the faster I find out the issue the less problems I'd have and the bill would stop piling up. That's what I fear the most that not only the cat is going bad but also the fuel pump. Hey Thank you for taking the time to explain with the information I've gathered today I can make better decisions, I'll start with the diagnostic and see what's the outcome, hopefully I only have to replace the cat but even then the part is in backorder. 🙄😂 Take care 🙏🏻
@@amoryunidad thanks for letting me know the mileage. It let's me create a marker in my head on these cars when these failures come up with people.
The reservoir tank being empty is an odd one, I agree. Typical rule of thumb with cooling systems...coolant went somewhere. As you know, coolant shouldn't just disappear. But I have seen that happen on vehicles...one off situations. So let's hope that's all it is.
No problem at all on the info. I hear you...my other vehicle is currently parked up with a leak I need to fix, so this car is my only mode of transport. And even if the other car was working fine, I still would want to fix these things up, regardless. I'm impressed that you're on top of these things, annoying as they are. That's awesome stuff. Hopefully it turns out to just be the CAT and it fixes your fuel pump issue too. Fingers crossed, my friend.
Blows my mine changing spark plugs on a qx60 is this intensive. Bad design by infiniti.
I know! It's crazy how annoying it is. Unfortunately, this seems to be happening more and more, especially with front wheel drive V6(or bigger) cars. So many run the intake manifold plenum on top of the engine now...so annoying. It's really unnecessarily hard!
I don't know what are ya gonna do? lol but no, seriously you broke it, so what are you going to do to fix it? (4 minutes into video)
Nothing really lol. If there was danger involved, or the wire could touch the exhaust or a belt, I would have tied the wire to the other notch on the back, to the right of the one that broke. This clip holds the MAF sensor, which attaches securely and has very little wire to become a concern. I have reviewed and opted to leave it as is.
What a pain in the ass design. All this just to change the sparkys?!
Yep you got it. And worse yet, it is not even close to the most difficult car I have worked on for the plugs. I miss the old days when a v8 could be done in 20 mins.
@@NexusAuto I can't help but suspect that these luxury brands are intentionally designed this way so the stealerships can make their hay
@@IIISWILIII I'm with you there. And now I'm seeing those same things on basic brands. Just more ways for stealerships to take more money from people. Even simple things like headlight bulbs are a pain in the ass