Turning a Vise Screw on the Metal Lathe - Part 1: Turning the Blank
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Turning a Vise Screw on the Metal Lathe - Part 1: Turning the Blank
Support VintageMachinery.org on Patreon:
/ vintagemachinery
Make a one time donation to VintageMachinery via PayPal:
www.paypal.me/...
Please Visit: www.vintagemach...
Sponsored by:
American Rotary Phase Converters
www.americanro...
Use checkout code "Vintage10" for a 10% discount on all AD, ADX and AI converters!
“Separation anxiety”? I think that’s the first time you have ever made me chuckle. Still enjoying channel content sir!
Keith when you are doing projects could you also include what material you are using? Like in this case is it 1018? I'm not a machinist by trade but a hobbiest and from what experience I do have looking at the chips and color of the metal and finish that is being left I would guess 1018 steel is what you are using here. The reason I ask is for future knowledge of what materials others use in certain situations.
Would welding the screw back together be an option? Maybe set the 2 pieces in some angle, get the thread spacing correct, tack or clamp them to the angle and then weld? Seems like less work and would avoid having to work on the handle.
Not owning a lathe myself, I would try that. There would probably be a lot of hand work, chasing the threads with files. Could be done. But since he is making a new screw, he can fit it to the worn nut.
Nice work as usual, really appreciate your videos. Learned a lot from you and Abom. I recently did the same job for a Reed #33 with 1-1/4, 3 square threads. Problem was my Leblond only went down to 4 tpi, had to make a 16 tooth gear to replace the 32 tooth and use the 6 tpi position on the quick change to get 3 tpi.
This may be a dumb question, but why does the auto feed always run towards the chuck. Seems to me it would be more safe to feed away from the chuck. I am a rank amateur and have a Chinese 9x20 lathe that I use mostly for small projects. Feeding towards the chuck always made me nervous. So much so that I modified it to feed away from the chuck.
Enjoyable video with right and proper breaks on long lengths, while still discussing things to watch out for and tips to improve quality.
Many people think that sharing these seemingly mundane things is futile or wasteful, heck some feel like it’s revealing state(trade) secrets, but i believe sharing knowledge betters Posterity- and that isn’t our real goal…then why be here at all?
Looking forward to yer next video.
I remember being taught to use a lathe. For the first real project I had the instructor told me: "Tolerances aren't critical on this job but you're going to measure and machine this as if they were. Develop good habits when you're machining anything and you'll always produce a good product." I've taken those words to heart. Obviously Keith has as well.
Even though the customer will deal with the handle, I'd be curious to know how you would have approached it.
That was interesting to see the different behavior when making a deeper cut.
Good job !!
Will be interesting to see if your lathe can do that pitch or if you have to get creative, the lowest pitch my lathe goes down to is 8 tpi.
Enjoyed watching video nice work
This may seem like teaching my grandfather to suck eggs, but the thread seemed odd to me. When I enlarged the video I didn't see any pitch angle. I'm wondering if the screw doesn't actually have a square thread rather than Acme thread. This is especially noticeable near the hub where there is no wear on the thread. If it's a really old vice a square threaded screw is not unlikely as the Acme thread was only developed in 1894.
Just wondering.
Thought the same thing immediately. Def looks like square to me, not acme. Which is very possible given the stated age.
Smart to keep your DRO panel covered with clear plastic. I like to use shrink wrap. I keep a roll in my work bench.
Must have been putting the Abom torque to that handle to twist that shaft in half!
Keith,
How do you chose the depth of the threads when given the major and minor diameters? Because it's a range, how does one choose a depth that isn't too loose or tight when a die or other reference isn't available?
Is this something that could be discussed in a future video?
Thank you
I love your channel I don’t machine anything so it’s fascinating to watch you do you make mistakes
Thanks for the view of how you use the DRO to measure the length. Nice project
Going well there. Looking forward to the thread cutting. Thank for allowing us to tag along 👍🇦🇺
Knowing the nut was extremely worn and an odd thread, was their a recommendation made to modernize the vice while maintaining is classic appearance?
My thinking is similar. Would it have made sense to "bush" the nut with bronze and use a slightly different Acme thread, for which the cutters needed are already on hand?
@@eliduttman315 , interesting, but going from a stub thread to a full-depth one would have weakened precisely the vice part that broke. You pull on one thread and sometimes you lose the entire sweater.
@@stuartschaffner9744 Is that the reason for stub acme thread? To leave more material for added strength?
@@oleran4569 , my background is physics, not machining so that was just an educated guess. However, notice that when the screw was overstressed, the stem broke rather than having the threads strip out.
@@stuartschaffner9744 It just seemed an elegant solution to a stress problem.
As always Kieth I love watching you turning out a beautiful piece of work.
I know that there are 20 ways for a machinist to complete any particular job, my comment isn't about right or wrong. That being stated, why not fix this like the "captured nut" toy. Cut on both sides of the break, drill and tap both sides and insert a bit of all thread that you then red locktite when you have the threads lined up right. If you wanted to really go all out you could leave the gap, braze to fill and then cut the thread in the brazed fill. or even cut a little blank that goes in the gap instead of the brazed fix the locktite it all. My thought with these options being that it would keep the original part which would seem to me to be important to an old tool that's been kept in the family over time.
I had a similar thought, but wasnt sure how I would time the inner threads correctly for the exterior acme (or square) thread to line up correctly between the two pieces... That seems tricky
wonderful Keith, cheers from Orlando, Paul
Thanks for the interesting video - as usual. (Woodworker here) considering the extremely tiny increments you measure in, how does the heat expansion introduced into the metal being cut relate to taper or variation? If the expansion occurs ahead of the cutter, I can imagine you might be taking off a slightly larger amount at times. And how does heat expansion affect the cutter?
Robert, great set of questions. A lot of the depth of cut can depend on the lathe itself. If the lathe has a 3/4 hp motor, it takes less to stall the motor as opposed to a 2hp or much larger lathe. There is a certain amount of heat that is caused through the cutting process. The heat generated causes the material to expand radially and axially (width and length.) For the work I have done with mild steel and up to 3" in diameter, I encounter about .003 to .005" expansion due to heat. That may not sound like much , but it can make a huge difference between a part fitting or being scrap.
Usually, unintended tapers are caused either because the headstock or tail stock is not properly aligned. Another possible cause of a taper can be if the lathe hasn't been properly aligned, through leveling, which can cause a slight twist in the bed.
Heat expansion usually doesn't affect the cutters unless it is carbide and you cool it during turning operations and it causes it to crack. I have seen demonstration videos on UA-cam where they heat up high speed steel to a dull red temperature and is is still able to cut metal. The other cutters such as the insert that Keith was using, is able to withstand much higher temperatures without issues.
I hope this helps
@@robertoswalt319 Thanks for your reply. I have come to appreciate .003” - but not for what I do (1/32” anyone?).
@@robertbamford8266 One of the tricks is to choose the cutter and feed so that most of the heat leaves in the chip and the base material doesnt heat up much. The other is to take a break between heavy cutting and finish passes to allow temps to normalize.
Is it difficult, or hard on the lathe cutters, to turn down the ACME threads on a lathe lead screw? I cut my 54" lathe bed to 36" (The table and work space needed for a 54" lathe isn't practical for my shop space given that the lathe is seldom used and I only work on small parts). I want to either have a shop cut and turn down my lead screw so it can fit in the end cap on the shortened lathe bed, or do it myself. I don't know if special/expensive cutters are needed to successfully turn down a lead screw. Any help is appreciated.
Basic stuff. The devils in the details. Always enjoyable.
Looking forward to the acme threading,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
Happy Easter to you and your family. Greetings from germany.
"Separation anxiety". Brilliant!!! I've had a few bouts of separation anxiety, mainly during my woodturning!!!
Enjoyed Keith...see you in part 2
Good practical stuff.
Very interesting, I like it. But I do not need to watch each and every mm of turning. Please accelerate these processes in future.
The CC subtitles are much cooler:
"Keith Rocker here at Venice Machinery..."
Your starting to get like Abom79 and drag one video into more than one
Why not? It's his show and you are a guest.
@@paulcopeland9035 they can do what they want but I unsescribed from Aboms channel and don't have to watch them there loss
@@danrabenhorst2549 ....Yep, It's your choice. If you don't like the "free" educational and entertaining content and it is ruining your life, then by all means go away. BTW, "unsubscribe" and "their".
Thanks. Jim Bell (Australia)
The old vise has the "Sectional Screw" option.
Enjoyed Keith...see you in part 2
Keith PLEASE don't break to many projects into part 1,2,3 and so-forth. Ive stopped watching others because of that. damn you just turned down to two diameters.
Hiya Keith
I see another machine in the background
Keith,
I am curious as to why the screw broke. The screw did break near the moving jaw end where you would expect most of the work was done. Was there cupping at the break? This would, along with narrowing in diameter or streching in the thread, indicate over tightening. Was corrosion at the root of the thread at the point of separation? This would indicate a stress corrosion crack. Was there a twist in the shaft? Indicating it was bound and twisted.
Acme threads are used because of their inherent ability to be used under load. A little forensic work might help determine if the slop in the nut might have contributed to the failure. Replacement of the nut may be called for.
If casting a new nut is not feasible, why not cut the threaded portion off and braze a new nut made from the remaining portion of the steel you're using to make the new screw?
Thanks for keeping my mind working.
Bob
No vise over a week old has been immune to a cheater bar or hammer on the handle, I think. This one is ancient. Generally, the screws and nuts are made of somewhat dissimilar materials.
I noticed that the handle is bent, i suspect someone used a pipe on it.
Guarantee you it was abuse.
I still want to see an used vice that's not abused.
@@UncleKennysPlace ...Right on the money!
Probably best to use a CNMG 433 or 434 insert and a heavier feed!
JIM🤔
Hmm....What he used didn't work?
Thanks for sharing !
This is a nice little project
Thanks for sharing 👍
my traversing screw on my potter and johnston 24 in shaper has lost some teeth, its an acme thread about 30 in long, would this be very expensive to repair? its not affecting the operation, as its in the very short travel section of the rod. i know my lathe will do it, but i am nowhere near talented enough to try it
18 minutes of video to turn down a shaft to the required diam. ? You are really milking things lately.
I’m afraid he learned that from abomb79. This could have easily been a one video job. I still like watching Keith though.
It's his show and you are a guest. If you don't like it, why do you watch?
To replace the nut, could you cut off the old cylinder, bore and single point tap a new one from durabar, and weld it back to its gusset?
Nothing better to calm my hangover than some Rucker Machining Zen
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed 👍👀
GOOD PART 1, TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, I AM READY FOR PART 2...GREAT VIDEO...
Ha! Justification for why you don't things away - because you never know. Must have my wife watch this one :-)
You missed the most important word ...don't THROW things away...
@@johncoops6897 Whoops - you are correct, apologies.
@@johncoops6897,We all knew what he meant! Lol
Damn Keith you look like Aboms older brother, same body build same hairdo. I guess that's what being a pro machinist does to the physique.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming...
Did you Mic the bore on the nut? If its worn enough a larger diameter on the shaft maybe better if its 10- 20 thou larger to give a better fit to account for wear? Just thinking out loud !!
Did you watch the video?
On your DRO, at first glance I thought it said "DAD PADS" as the brand name.
Maybe it should! I'd like that on my DRO!
Hey keith what is the insert ?
Great issue👌👌✔✔
Thanks, Keith.
Over too soon.
thank you Keith
why no lube on the lathe work? is that bar cast iron?
With modern inserts plus the light cuts he is taking, lube is "old school" most times.
30 mins please
Great video Keith!
I'm shocked - Americans spell "vice" with an "s" !
We spell vise with an "S" and we spell vice with a "C". And some of us know the difference between the 2 things. Everybody else is just misspelling one of the words most of the time.
@@larrywalker7759 .....Yep!.....Vice with a "C" is the expensive one!
@@larrywalker7759 Keith Matthews
Interestingly UA-camr 'Vice Grip Garage' favours the UK spelling! Someone once described the USA and the UK as "two peoples seperated by a common language"! I guess that the UK is more used to living with homonyms ie having different meanings for the same word and to work things out from the context in which they are used. If we want to confuse those whose first languague is not English we can say things like "Time flies like an arrow but fruit flies like a banana! "🙃
@@keithmatthews1673 I have always loved the "Time flies" saying.
Yeah, on Vice Grip Garage there could be several reasons he uses that spelling. Could just be a play on words, or maybe he is shrewdly avoiding being targeted by Irwin Tool Company, who owns the copyright to the Vise Grip brand of tools.
@@larrywalker7759 Ah! I see why that might be so!
from all i have seen from other machinists and there channels and you are running far to slow
yes i know it is your channel but i have been following you for a long time now and you talk about what you are doing
i liked that but i have seen enough of you and always letting the tool drage back acrothe part
and rather than be a armchair know it all i will just un subscribe to your channel good by and goodluck
This isn’t the train station. You don’t have to announce your departure. Just leave. You have been threatening to leave now for awhile. Just go, we definitely won’t miss you. Bye
Did that door swing back, and hit you on the way out?
Goodbye.
@@MrPossumeyes What a shallow person. If you are such an accomplished machinists and know so much more than everyone else...where is your channel?
@@jackpledger8118 Ah, are you sure you replied to the right person?
Hi Keith. As usual I loved the video and as usual you say the rotational speed is 720 r.p.m’s. It’s 720 r.p.m. ie, 720 revolutions per minute. r.p.m’s. equates to revolutions per minutes which I admit is a bit pedantic, but the engineer/ mathematician in me likes to hear the correct units.
A quick look at the break in the shaft looks like plastic elastic failure which suggests the lathe has been overtightened on a regular basis with that section of the screw close to the nut. I couldn’t see signs of a brittle fracture so I don’t think it has been hit with a hammer. A softer metal handle would bend before sufficient force could be applied to damage the threaded shaft. Just a thought.
why not make it 2 piece, save having to machine the 2" shaft to ~1" for the threaded section.
......Well, because he didn't want to. This is a machining channel so I would guess he chose to machine it!
@@paulcopeland9035 Have you got a channel you sure seem to know everything
@@danrabenhorst2549 ...What's your bitch, man? All I did was comment on what was Keith's choice!