I had to hit that like button not even half way through the video. Huge effort that you have recorded such a detailed process of performing a full service for your C220 CDI!! I literally watched the whole thing cuz I love servicing my own car as a DIYer, and I am actively looking to buy a W204 C220/C250CDi like yours!! Cheers mate you are a legend!
Appreciate it, mate! Hopefully you find a good one, they're honestly brilliant cars and I've loved mine since I got it. Just look out for the dreaded ESL faults that they sometimes have, as well as the rear subframes rotting away! Good luck, and again, thanks for your comment! :)
A little tip for bleeding brakes. You always start at the point that is furthest away. So always start bleeding the brake system from the right rear first. then left back, left front, and finally right front!
Not on these Merc systems. These require you to start offside rear, nearside rear, nearside front and then offside front. The ABS systems are quite funky. But for routine brake fluid changes, you can bleed them in whatever order you like. The principle for "bleeding" the brakes rather than just a fluid change is different. The reason you start with the furthest point is to purge the air out of the system starting with the most difficult circuit - the one going the furthest distance. This may vary like it does for mercs, as the manufacturer states what process should be done when doing an ABS system bleed. But when there is no air to purge, there is no requirement for this process.
Thank you for a great video! 39:00 I would recommend checking those rolls at the same time. My car (c200, basically the same) had it's water pump (bearing) on the verge of death, I thought it was only the belt making those clonck noises :D Edit: Sorry, in Finnish those pulleys are called "rulla" that translates to roll. I did mean pulley.
Господи храни тебя у меня аж оргазм был несколько раз когда тебя посмотрел ты большой молодец что так обслужил свой автомобиль 🚙 у меня слёзы накатываются на глаза 👀 когда смотрел твоё видео - жаль что таких специалистов как ты в России один на 5 Миллионов!!!
Alex mirerama e pashe vidjon qe nga fillimi ne mbarime bravo per pune qe bere super mekanike i ve edhe. Ne cdo detaje ju shkruaj nga Belgjika desha me te pyte dicka kame nji Mecedz w204 180 benzine ne hecje ben nji shkëputje kame automat mundet te me shkruash nji sqarim faleminderit
These were actually torqued to 140nm (technical service bulletin for these particular wheels) when fitted with locking wheel bolts. Not really possible to 'look' and see how tight it is.
Yeah, it's probably worth doing. They're pretty simple to do, there's nothing complex with it either, quite a nice job to do. Every four years I recommend for a car getting normal use. I'll probably be doing mine every year as I am doing crazy high miles.
@@AlexYeets mine has gotten very sluggish on gear change and bogging down on takeoff so want to see if it's something to do with the gearbox never been serviced, it's a 2009 so it's getting on now, thanks
@@mastrorrrooos This would be circa £800. Major inspection, air, pollen, oil and fuel filters, gearbox filter and service, brake fluid, rear diff fluid, rear parking brake service (didn't record this section sadly), new auxiliary drive belt and A/C service. It's probably pretty close to what the dealers charge, but it's also more thorough than what the dealers do. This is quite an old video now, but I will be starting back up doing servicing on some cars and other misc repairs. As I type this, I'm currently watching fluid drain on a VAG DSG gearbox, lol.
Did you check tyre pressures (inc spare), lights, indicators and repeater lamps, hazards, reverse lamps, wiper blades, washer operation, bellows, track rod ends, exhaust hangers, parking sensors and horn, brake pipes and flexi's, emissions etc?
Yup, all cars I do have full VHCs in effect, including the checking of headlamp aim, projected beam image and brake balance and performance testing. However, if I were to include all of this, the video would be many, many times longer. Thank you for noticing, however. These are things I check as I strive to do the best I can do for a service, no matter what car it is. What you don't see in this video is probably about three hours worth of footage that ended up being scrapped either because it was a lot of dead air of doing mundane tasks or repeated tasks, or just sections that were largely uninteresting.
How much would you charge to carry this service out and where are you based? I've got a w204 estate. Previous owner appeared to have taken very good care of it but I've got to drive to Kosovo this February (will be having a couple of laps of the Nurburgring on the way through Germany too) so want to give the car a good look through and thorough service. Thanks in advance 👍
Hi Nye Davis. I'm currently not taking any bookings as I'm extremely busy up until March and I do these on a private basis as opposed to through the workshop I work at. Sorry I can't be of any help.
@@AlaGamesMobile No, this one is the Om646, just before that. I think the 651 was introduced between 2010-2011 just before the face-lift model. There was a weird purgatory time where the preface lifts could have the 651 but was somewhat rare.
Okay - the next video is going to be up tonight. Maybe this afternoon. It's a different format, it has background music playing. Not 100% sure how it'll play out because I'm not much a fan of it myself, but thought I'd try it.
Hi! I ordered an oil filter cap removal like the one you’re using but I don’t know what I have to attach to it, looks like a 25mm square lug (?) can you point me in the direction of the tools I need?
Hi, it's unusual that it's come with a 25mm/1" lug. Usually they come 1/2" or 3/8th". You will probably be best getting an adapter for 1/2" to 1" and a simple 1/2" socket set. But at minimum a 1/2" ratchet and 1/2"-1" adapter.
Just wondering but why aren't you torqueing anything especially the gearbox pan ? 4nm + 180° it is VERY important on 722's especially when the 6 bolts are made of magnesium and they will surely break above 12nm...
Hi! Please be aware that I have done hundreds of these gearbox services over the years. I have plenty enough experience to know where these want to be tightened down to. I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel. You also should note that this is my own vehicle. Regardless of getting paid for the labour time or not, I would still be comfortable to carry out the service just as I have here - however I would always torque these to spec, as well as replacing the bolts, given the customer pays for enough of my time and the replacement bolts. One could argue that without replacing the bolts, using torque settings at all is entirely moot and pointless either way, so by extension, even simply torqueing them is not enough if you use the old bolts. You have to bear in mind that not all customers are willing to pay the cost for new bolts, and my regular labour rates. A gearbox service can get expensive fast, when majority of people are told that automatic gearboxes are "sealed for life" or filled with "Lifetime Oil". The final thing to note is that many people do not have torque wrenches to work on their own cars outside of a workshop, and at the end of the day, there are thousands upon thousands of cars going about with sumps and drain plugs and fill ports and oil filters and wheels and lord knows what else which have not been torqued to a specified setting, but just tightened by someone with vague experience and not a single issue arises from it. I appreciate you taking the time to comment regardless.
@@AlexYeets "I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel." My bad I had theses torques in mind but for 722.9... You're right for 8nm on 722.6. WIS document-s are my sources
I'd have to know precisely which gearbox it is to be accurate. If I had a registration number or vin number, I could find out for you. For example, mine has the 722.640 5 speed, which recommends the 236.14. This website will allow you to find what transmission code yours has. www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Mercedes-Benz "Comma ATF & Power Steering Fluid" is what I used, which meets all those you listed, and more. 7.5 litres is the named capacity, but if you don't drain the torque converter like me, it'll be less. Just have to make sure it's definitely right for the gearbox - run that vin decoder and tell me what numbers come up for your gearbox, and I'll be able to help you a bit further. 👍 (EDIT: Corrected a capacity value I entered incorrectly for mine, from 9l to 7.5l.)
@@AlexYeets thanks man, i got the following result for the Transmission "722640 07 605169 [transmissionType = GA]" .......under Aggregates "Automatic : 722640 07 605169 722.640 W 5 A 580 AT 5-SPEED" - thanks, handy site that
Toutes mes excuses, j'utilise google translate. Oui, il s'agit de la boîte de vitesses automatique à 5 rapports sur ce modèle. Apologies, using google translate. Yes, this is the 5-speed automatic gearbox on this model.
Mi scuso, dato che sono inglese. Sto utilizzando Google Translate. La procedura di servizio è quasi la stessa. Questi usano anche lo stesso blocco motore. La principale differenza tra loro è solo la carrozzeria stessa, più o meno alcuni componenti extra aggiunti nel corso degli anni. Tra i motori, la differenza principale sono solo i componenti estranei per favorire il funzionamento e l'affidabilità. Scoprirai che anche i vani motore sono abbastanza simili. I filtri dell'olio e dell'aria si trovano praticamente nelle stesse posizioni, anche i filtri del carburante sono generalmente nello stesso posto. Per quanto riguarda il cambio, anch'essi sono esattamente gli stessi tranne che per modifiche estremamente lievi, che non hanno alcun impatto sull'andamento del servizio. Anche i freni sono fondamentalmente gli stessi: i freni posteriori hanno freni di stazionamento interni, i freni anteriori sono montati allo stesso modo e i cuscinetti delle ruote anteriori sono ancora regolabili. Anche la trasmissione è la stessa. Anche le sospensioni sono le stesse, così come l'impianto di scarico e gli attacchi ad esso. Nel complesso, la manutenzione di questi è abbastanza semplice. Tuttavia, se avrò la possibilità di fare un video su uno, ho intenzione di farne uno a prescindere. Se tutto andrà bene, sto pensando di fare più video di assistenza per Mercedes, BMW e Jaguar in futuro, oltre a video di Valeting e Detailing. Apologies, as I'm English. I'm using Google Translate. The service procedure is almost the same. These even use the same engine block. The main difference between them is just the bodywork itself, plus or minus some extra components added on over the years. Between the engines, the main difference is just extraneous components to aid running and reliability. You'll find even the engine bays are quite similar. Oil and Air filters are in practically the same locations, the fuel filters are usually in the same place as well. As for the gearbox, they are also exactly the same except for extremely minor changes, which has no impact on the service proceedure. The brakes are also fundamentally the same - Rear brakes have internal parking brakes, front brakes are mounted the same way and the front wheel bearings are still adjustable. The driveline is also the same as well. The suspension is also the same, as is the exhaust system and the attachments to it. Overall, servicing these is quite straightforward. However, if I do get a chance to make a video on one, I plan to make one regardless. I'm looking at doing more Mercedes, BMWs and Jaguar-aimed service videos in the future if all things go well, as well as Valeting and Detailing videos.
@@Valentin01 Parts and labour on a vehicle like this is a total of around £660. The parts isn't the massive hit out of it all, it's mostly the labour time as it takes several hours to do this much work, though some of the oils are quite expensive.
Long story short, yes - Tends to happen immediately on any diesel engine, especially older ones. Just one start-up and it looks like old oil again, but it's totally normal and expected. Once you run the engine for a few moments, the engine oil will turn completely black again. Diesels create a lot of soot and it will always naturally find it's way into the crankcase through Blowby. The soot mixing with the oil almost instantly pigments it. Plus, with the age of the car, it's natural that it will have slightly darker deposits from years of use. The main takeaway is that the oil's lubricity is restored when you replace the oil, no matter what colour it goes. The dilution of it's chemical properties are also restored to a very good standard with fresh fluids. Even an engine cleaner won't be able to clean an old diesel engine to the point of keeping engine oil gold.
Never worked at a dealer or anything like that, just at an independent garage. Mercs are what I tended to get tasked with, and we are now a JLR and MB specialist.
@@AlexYeets In finland, this Comma 236.14 oil has very bad reputation in MB vehicles. It is not approved by MB. Correct fluid has "mb approval 236.14" text in the bottle.
@@Derbitti1 In UK, this is the listed aftermarket oil for this vehicle which meets or exceeds the standards for these gearboxes. Comma created these standards which Mercedes use, and they regulate the requirements of oils themselves, much like Pensoil (I can't remember if that's the right company, might have it mixed up) for US. Each country will probably have it's own set standard which will cross reference to each manufacturer's requirement.
On a simple service, it's advised not to drain the torque converter. On a full flush where there is a present issue, a full drain would be advisable and so there is a drain bung on the torque converter. There is also the fact that the car is over 10 years old and 110000 miles deep in life - the sump plug for the gearbox was extremely tight, and the torque converter plug was almost certainly the same, except if that plug snapped or stripped, it'd be a big ordeal to put it right. This was essentially taking the safest route to both service the gearbox, but not immobilise the car at great expense.
Gahh first person to call me out on it. I recorded the diff fluid draining but the camera was out of focus, so that footage was unusable. The bottom drain bung was slightly visibly damp in the video clip which is the only tell-tale.
@@AlexYeets haha, that was what I guessed, otherwise it could be a big problem. I can tell you really care about your customer’s car and pay attention to details. Great work, Thanks!
@@xxxqqq Much appreciated, if you're going to do the job, and you're going to say you can do the job, you should do the job properly. Just the way I've always looked at it.
The best video I've ever seen for the service of my Mercedes.Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I had to hit that like button not even half way through the video. Huge effort that you have recorded such a detailed process of performing a full service for your C220 CDI!! I literally watched the whole thing cuz I love servicing my own car as a DIYer, and I am actively looking to buy a W204 C220/C250CDi like yours!! Cheers mate you are a legend!
Appreciate it, mate! Hopefully you find a good one, they're honestly brilliant cars and I've loved mine since I got it. Just look out for the dreaded ESL faults that they sometimes have, as well as the rear subframes rotting away! Good luck, and again, thanks for your comment! :)
Thank you for this, I've just picked up a C250 to run about in myself
A real mechanic , not many like this guy anymore, brilliant video
Clinical work. Much respect.
A little tip for bleeding brakes. You always start at the point that is furthest away. So always start bleeding the brake system from the right rear first. then left back, left front, and finally right front!
Not on these Merc systems. These require you to start offside rear, nearside rear, nearside front and then offside front. The ABS systems are quite funky.
But for routine brake fluid changes, you can bleed them in whatever order you like. The principle for "bleeding" the brakes rather than just a fluid change is different.
The reason you start with the furthest point is to purge the air out of the system starting with the most difficult circuit - the one going the furthest distance. This may vary like it does for mercs, as the manufacturer states what process should be done when doing an ABS system bleed. But when there is no air to purge, there is no requirement for this process.
Great service. Wish you lived near me. All the best.
Extremely well done job! I'm super happy seeing high quality service being done on those cars. Congrats
This video has helped me E our mouldy on my w204 cdi, always refer to this video. Thank you for making
Thank you for a great video! 39:00 I would recommend checking those rolls at the same time. My car (c200, basically the same) had it's water pump (bearing) on the verge of death, I thought it was only the belt making those clonck noises :D
Edit: Sorry, in Finnish those pulleys are called "rulla" that translates to roll. I did mean pulley.
Subscribed! Love your way of working man. Very clean. Really an expert. 👌
Господи храни тебя у меня аж оргазм был несколько раз когда тебя посмотрел ты большой молодец что так обслужил свой автомобиль 🚙 у меня слёзы накатываются на глаза 👀 когда смотрел твоё видео - жаль что таких специалистов как ты в России один на 5 Миллионов!!!
Great job.
Please, some advice on the FAP?
Alex mirerama e pashe vidjon qe nga fillimi ne mbarime bravo per pune qe bere super mekanike i ve edhe. Ne cdo detaje ju shkruaj nga Belgjika desha me te pyte dicka kame nji Mecedz w204 180 benzine ne hecje ben nji shkëputje kame automat mundet te me shkruash nji sqarim faleminderit
Thanks for sharing your knowledge - very appreciated! Wishing you all the best!
superb video alex and a meticulous service
tuto de professionnel un bonjour de l'Algérie, je m'abonne
Nice work! Remember. The final torque for the wheels is 130 nm. In the video it looks like you have done it with less torque.
These were actually torqued to 140nm (technical service bulletin for these particular wheels) when fitted with locking wheel bolts.
Not really possible to 'look' and see how tight it is.
Well done 😊
Good job man, i like that work. How much oil did you put in the automatic transmission? Thank you.
excellent vid....a pro at work.
Ciao. Per caso sai dove sta il filtro olio del motore a benzina. 1.8 kompressor del 2007. W204 come la tua. Grazie mille 🙏
Keep these vids coming!
great video man, i want to get the gearbox serviced on mine as it has never been done
Yeah, it's probably worth doing. They're pretty simple to do, there's nothing complex with it either, quite a nice job to do. Every four years I recommend for a car getting normal use. I'll probably be doing mine every year as I am doing crazy high miles.
@@AlexYeets mine has gotten very sluggish on gear change and bogging down on takeoff so want to see if it's something to do with the gearbox never been serviced, it's a 2009 so it's getting on now, thanks
Super work sir 👍👍
Nice video, thanks
Can i ask what size is the oil filter removal tool is 54mm, 74mm or 76mm? Thanks
74mm iirc. 👍
Thank you so much
The most important,,,, how much do you charge for all this.. Thank you
@@mastrorrrooos This would be circa £800. Major inspection, air, pollen, oil and fuel filters, gearbox filter and service, brake fluid, rear diff fluid, rear parking brake service (didn't record this section sadly), new auxiliary drive belt and A/C service.
It's probably pretty close to what the dealers charge, but it's also more thorough than what the dealers do. This is quite an old video now, but I will be starting back up doing servicing on some cars and other misc repairs. As I type this, I'm currently watching fluid drain on a VAG DSG gearbox, lol.
@@AlexYeets thank you for the prompt reply
Did you check tyre pressures (inc spare), lights, indicators and repeater lamps, hazards, reverse lamps, wiper blades, washer operation, bellows, track rod ends, exhaust hangers, parking sensors and horn, brake pipes and flexi's, emissions etc?
Yup, all cars I do have full VHCs in effect, including the checking of headlamp aim, projected beam image and brake balance and performance testing.
However, if I were to include all of this, the video would be many, many times longer.
Thank you for noticing, however. These are things I check as I strive to do the best I can do for a service, no matter what car it is. What you don't see in this video is probably about three hours worth of footage that ended up being scrapped either because it was a lot of dead air of doing mundane tasks or repeated tasks, or just sections that were largely uninteresting.
@@AlexYeets Thanks for taking time to reply and also for the video which was excellent and I learned a lot from it. 🙂
How much would you charge to carry this service out and where are you based? I've got a w204 estate. Previous owner appeared to have taken very good care of it but I've got to drive to Kosovo this February (will be having a couple of laps of the Nurburgring on the way through Germany too) so want to give the car a good look through and thorough service. Thanks in advance 👍
Hi Nye Davis.
I'm currently not taking any bookings as I'm extremely busy up until March and I do these on a private basis as opposed to through the workshop I work at.
Sorry I can't be of any help.
Does anyone know where such services can be found in Germany? I haven't found anyone who works like in this video!!
Is this the OM651 engine prior 2012?
@@AlaGamesMobile No, this one is the Om646, just before that. I think the 651 was introduced between 2010-2011 just before the face-lift model. There was a weird purgatory time where the preface lifts could have the 651 but was somewhat rare.
@@AlexYeets just got an om651 and could I apply same kind of transmission service and haldex service as you did? Mine vin is WDC2049841F884354
coolant change?
great job !!!
Great job sir respect god’s bless 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪👍
Engine oil capacity
Housing oil capacity please mention sir
6.5l engine oil including filter - though as a service, you usually end up topping up by 5.5l.
Okay - the next video is going to be up tonight. Maybe this afternoon.
It's a different format, it has background music playing. Not 100% sure how it'll play out because I'm not much a fan of it myself, but thought I'd try it.
Hi! I ordered an oil filter cap removal like the one you’re using but I don’t know what I have to attach to it, looks like a 25mm square lug (?) can you point me in the direction of the tools I need?
Hi, it's unusual that it's come with a 25mm/1" lug. Usually they come 1/2" or 3/8th".
You will probably be best getting an adapter for 1/2" to 1" and a simple 1/2" socket set. But at minimum a 1/2" ratchet and 1/2"-1" adapter.
Just wondering but why aren't you torqueing anything especially the gearbox pan ? 4nm + 180° it is VERY important on 722's especially when the 6 bolts are made of magnesium and they will surely break above 12nm...
Hi!
Please be aware that I have done hundreds of these gearbox services over the years. I have plenty enough experience to know where these want to be tightened down to.
I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel.
You also should note that this is my own vehicle. Regardless of getting paid for the labour time or not, I would still be comfortable to carry out the service just as I have here - however I would always torque these to spec, as well as replacing the bolts, given the customer pays for enough of my time and the replacement bolts. One could argue that without replacing the bolts, using torque settings at all is entirely moot and pointless either way, so by extension, even simply torqueing them is not enough if you use the old bolts.
You have to bear in mind that not all customers are willing to pay the cost for new bolts, and my regular labour rates. A gearbox service can get expensive fast, when majority of people are told that automatic gearboxes are "sealed for life" or filled with "Lifetime Oil".
The final thing to note is that many people do not have torque wrenches to work on their own cars outside of a workshop, and at the end of the day, there are thousands upon thousands of cars going about with sumps and drain plugs and fill ports and oil filters and wheels and lord knows what else which have not been torqued to a specified setting, but just tightened by someone with vague experience and not a single issue arises from it.
I appreciate you taking the time to comment regardless.
@@AlexYeets "I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel."
My bad I had theses torques in mind but for 722.9... You're right for 8nm on 722.6.
WIS document-s are my sources
Hi Alex, where are you guys based? My C250 needs a B Service and you look like an excellent indy garage
Hi Alex what spec transmission fluid did you use? Confused as whether to use 236.10, 236.12, or 236.14 - my gearbox is the 5 speed tiptronic, thanks
I'd have to know precisely which gearbox it is to be accurate. If I had a registration number or vin number, I could find out for you. For example, mine has the 722.640 5 speed, which recommends the 236.14.
This website will allow you to find what transmission code yours has.
www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Mercedes-Benz
"Comma ATF & Power Steering Fluid" is what I used, which meets all those you listed, and more. 7.5 litres is the named capacity, but if you don't drain the torque converter like me, it'll be less. Just have to make sure it's definitely right for the gearbox - run that vin decoder and tell me what numbers come up for your gearbox, and I'll be able to help you a bit further.
👍
(EDIT: Corrected a capacity value I entered incorrectly for mine, from 9l to 7.5l.)
@@AlexYeets thanks man, i got the following result for the Transmission "722640 07 605169 [transmissionType = GA]" .......under Aggregates "Automatic : 722640 07 605169 722.640 W 5 A 580 AT 5-SPEED" - thanks, handy site that
very good
l'huile de la boite de vitesse est différent du différentiel c'est bien ça
Perfect bravo
What engine oil did u used ??
Quantum's Platinum plus 23 5w30 if I recall correctly, is a 229.52 MB specification oil so surpasses what the vehicle requires.
OM 646?
Yup, that's the one. 646.811.
@@AlexYeets the best of best 4 cyl diesel, i have the same and 0 oil leak
C'est une automatic?
Toutes mes excuses, j'utilise google translate. Oui, il s'agit de la boîte de vitesses automatique à 5 rapports sur ce modèle.
Apologies, using google translate. Yes, this is the 5-speed automatic gearbox on this model.
Ciao
Se possibile fai un tagliando completo di Mercedes w203 C200 cdi 2004
Grazie per la video
Mi scuso, dato che sono inglese. Sto utilizzando Google Translate.
La procedura di servizio è quasi la stessa. Questi usano anche lo stesso blocco motore.
La principale differenza tra loro è solo la carrozzeria stessa, più o meno alcuni componenti extra aggiunti nel corso degli anni.
Tra i motori, la differenza principale sono solo i componenti estranei per favorire il funzionamento e l'affidabilità. Scoprirai che anche i vani motore sono abbastanza simili. I filtri dell'olio e dell'aria si trovano praticamente nelle stesse posizioni, anche i filtri del carburante sono generalmente nello stesso posto. Per quanto riguarda il cambio, anch'essi sono esattamente gli stessi tranne che per modifiche estremamente lievi, che non hanno alcun impatto sull'andamento del servizio. Anche i freni sono fondamentalmente gli stessi: i freni posteriori hanno freni di stazionamento interni, i freni anteriori sono montati allo stesso modo e i cuscinetti delle ruote anteriori sono ancora regolabili. Anche la trasmissione è la stessa. Anche le sospensioni sono le stesse, così come l'impianto di scarico e gli attacchi ad esso. Nel complesso, la manutenzione di questi è abbastanza semplice. Tuttavia, se avrò la possibilità di fare un video su uno, ho intenzione di farne uno a prescindere. Se tutto andrà bene, sto pensando di fare più video di assistenza per Mercedes, BMW e Jaguar in futuro, oltre a video di Valeting e Detailing.
Apologies, as I'm English. I'm using Google Translate.
The service procedure is almost the same. These even use the same engine block.
The main difference between them is just the bodywork itself, plus or minus some extra components added on over the years.
Between the engines, the main difference is just extraneous components to aid running and reliability.
You'll find even the engine bays are quite similar. Oil and Air filters are in practically the same locations, the fuel filters are usually in the same place as well.
As for the gearbox, they are also exactly the same except for extremely minor changes, which has no impact on the service proceedure.
The brakes are also fundamentally the same - Rear brakes have internal parking brakes, front brakes are mounted the same way and the front wheel bearings are still adjustable.
The driveline is also the same as well. The suspension is also the same, as is the exhaust system and the attachments to it.
Overall, servicing these is quite straightforward.
However, if I do get a chance to make a video on one, I plan to make one regardless. I'm looking at doing more Mercedes, BMWs and Jaguar-aimed service videos in the future if all things go well, as well as Valeting and Detailing videos.
@@AlexYeets ti ringrazio molto bene sig Alex per la spiegazione
Great video Alex, but where in the UK are you? Thanks
In the Preston area 👍
@@AlexYeets Drat I'm in Devon !
@@AlexYeets how much all this it will be ?
@@Valentin01 Parts and labour on a vehicle like this is a total of around £660. The parts isn't the massive hit out of it all, it's mostly the labour time as it takes several hours to do this much work, though some of the oils are quite expensive.
@@AlexYeets thank you very much for your reply . 🤝🤝🤝
What is the torque of the engine and differential plugs?
50nm for the diff and 20nm for the engine oil sump plug.
The engine oil just filled always into black color ?
Long story short, yes - Tends to happen immediately on any diesel engine, especially older ones. Just one start-up and it looks like old oil again, but it's totally normal and expected.
Once you run the engine for a few moments, the engine oil will turn completely black again.
Diesels create a lot of soot and it will always naturally find it's way into the crankcase through Blowby.
The soot mixing with the oil almost instantly pigments it. Plus, with the age of the car, it's natural that it will have slightly darker deposits from years of use.
The main takeaway is that the oil's lubricity is restored when you replace the oil, no matter what colour it goes. The dilution of it's chemical properties are also restored to a very good standard with fresh fluids.
Even an engine cleaner won't be able to clean an old diesel engine to the point of keeping engine oil gold.
@@AlexYeets thanks a lot 🙏🙏
Torque specs, torque wrench. what that😂
Did you main fix MB CARS?
Never worked at a dealer or anything like that, just at an independent garage. Mercs are what I tended to get tasked with, and we are now a JLR and MB specialist.
@@AlexYeets OK, tell me your email. we have lot of scanner coming. we maybe have a chance to work together.
Please, don`t use Comma automatic oil😥
You destroy transmission on that cutting oil.
Untrue.
Comma make the standards for what the oil requirements are, including mercedes benz designations.
@@AlexYeets Yes, Comma makes on their own. `bit different when car manufacturer makes and when oil producer.
@@Olstensracing Mercedes don't make their own oil. They are made by a separate company that merc then put their brand over, much like Mann filters.
@@AlexYeets In finland, this Comma 236.14 oil has very bad reputation in MB vehicles. It is not approved by MB. Correct fluid has "mb approval 236.14" text in the bottle.
@@Derbitti1 In UK, this is the listed aftermarket oil for this vehicle which meets or exceeds the standards for these gearboxes.
Comma created these standards which Mercedes use, and they regulate the requirements of oils themselves, much like Pensoil (I can't remember if that's the right company, might have it mixed up) for US. Each country will probably have it's own set standard which will cross reference to each manufacturer's requirement.
Should you not full drain the torque converter ? Or can this not ge done
On a simple service, it's advised not to drain the torque converter.
On a full flush where there is a present issue, a full drain would be advisable and so there is a drain bung on the torque converter.
There is also the fact that the car is over 10 years old and 110000 miles deep in life - the sump plug for the gearbox was extremely tight, and the torque converter plug was almost certainly the same, except if that plug snapped or stripped, it'd be a big ordeal to put it right.
This was essentially taking the safest route to both service the gearbox, but not immobilise the car at great expense.
@@AlexYeets thanks fir replying, i have just bought a c200 was wondering if the TC should be done on B serv
@@jamescampbellhenderson1689 On this car, there's no service schedule for the ATF. The fluid is usually classed as lifetime oil.
I recommend every four years or 40,000 miles for the ATF fluid and filter change.
"On a simple service, it's advised not to drain the torque converter." ..
I'd be quite curious where in the WIS have you read such a thing ?
Это тот самый дешёвый w204??? Сколько стоит увас?? просто унас это тоже дорого по этому спрошываю?!!!!
- Corrosion
- 1k acrylic paint
....ok.
Was just what I happened to have to hand, and it's done a brilliant job if I'm being brutally honest. Not gotten any worse.
N'est pas ordonné dans la mise en œuvre de l'entretien.
Slepec ko da ima dve levi race
Be little bit more gentle lol
Great job! Thanks! Almost no oil came out of the rear differential? Is that normal?
Gahh first person to call me out on it.
I recorded the diff fluid draining but the camera was out of focus, so that footage was unusable. The bottom drain bung was slightly visibly damp in the video clip which is the only tell-tale.
@@AlexYeets haha, that was what I guessed, otherwise it could be a big problem. I can tell you really care about your customer’s car and pay attention to details. Great work, Thanks!
@@xxxqqq Much appreciated, if you're going to do the job, and you're going to say you can do the job, you should do the job properly. Just the way I've always looked at it.