Small correction - you want 1/8" gap between the sheathing panels for expansion and contraction. Btw, I have watched a lot of your videos and I'd have to say that I'm very surprised that you guys don't have more views! Building that small building from scratch and just all of the knowledge you pass on has been excellent! Great job!
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
My son-in-law, which I’m really proud of him I just think it’s wonderful. He just got his builders license but I was helping him on a project and he said they don’t use nothing larger than a half inch plywood or OSB on a brand new roof and I was like well that doesn’t sound right to me maybe on a Rishi but not on a brand new roof three-quarter bigger that’s what I’ve always used. Nice video would show this video to people that worked for me if I was still in the business.
To second what Thomas and some others have said, I am amazed as the quality and quantity of excellent information you have conveyed in this series of videos. I took a very good framing and roofing course at the local community college and this stands a-tip-toe with that in terms of what and how you presented it. People would greatly benefit by spending some time watching your series you've presented here. Well done, my friend.
You should show us how to tie a gable roof to existing one. This is very common tipe of construction jobs so far , expecially front of the house. Good job guys
I actually tested the theory of temperature affecting the expansion/contraction of wood. I found that temperature had little or no measurable effect, but moisture content did. As an example; If the attic is 120⁰F in a desert climate, the moisture content of the wood will become low. But, 120⁰F in an area with 90% humidity will result in higher moisture content in the wood. So, humidity has the most dramatic effect on the moisture content of wood. Moisture content being the main cause of expansion/contraction.
@lunam7249 I used desert in the example due to the lack of humidity. At no point did I indicate that 120⁰ was the highest temperature an attic could get in a desert climate. I stand by my original point. The moisture content of wood, not temperature, mostly affects wood's expansion and contraction. That is as long as the temperature is above freezing and below boiling.
@@cornpop7805 yes. as a physicist its quite a magic material, especially when making a $4000000 strativarious violin, or holding up a 10 story building
Nice vid! Question - If you laid the sheathing down and found that you've got about a 3-4" gap (or less than a 1') on both sides of the ridge, what do you do to fill the gap, especially when adding a ridge vent? Thin strip of OSB? Something else? (tough to find this answer through Google). Thanks!
You place a whole sheet at the ridge at least larger than 3' in width and put the 3-4" strip in the middle of the roof. Ridge vent needs an inch or so on either side to vent the hot air but 3-4" is too much.
Mines a 10 /12 pitch how do u get the first border plywood to sit even or level by your self 30 ft to the gutter ? Can you cut 2 ft by 8 ft and make it more managable
I'm no pro but I know rafters are often not true (Crowning!). I'd measure up 48" from the ends of the rafters at each end of the roof, adjust for overhang for width of fascia. Then line up lower short corner of sheathing to be centered on a rafter, then flex the upper part of rafter to center on the upper corner of sheathing. if you true up the sheathing to a rafter, and that rafter is bowed, then you're OSB is going to be crooked.
a shame you didn't talk about those temporary red platform bars that you stand on for safety... would love to know what they're called and where I can buy them
If you had a roof like mine with no overhang, where the roof sheathing meets the wall sheathing would you run the roof sheathing out overlapping the wall sheathing or would you run the wall sheathing up overlapping the roof sheathing, I have a steel roof with edge trim that covers the whole corner, I suppose if I had shingles then I might have a lip, then I would run the roof out overlapping the wall.
I like the way we modify the English language depending on what town we live in. What the hell is a "fly rafter"? Or perhaps, for the last 50 years, I've been incorrectly referring to it as a barge rafter along with any construction publication you care to read. If you're going to waste time and money beveling the sub fascia why not bevel the first sheet of sheathing? Speaking of sheathing, many specs call for spacing, not "nice and tight"? Not that it's done often, but as an instructional video, you should.
I wish the framers that built my house would have beveled the facia and made the sheathing flush like that. I wouldn't have had to battle squirrels in my attic.
Well done job, I live in Brazil, and I would like to make a roof like this in my house, and I would like to know, what is the minimum distance that should leave between the ceiling and the OSB, thanks in advance
If you use anything between a 4/12 and a 12/12 pitch, you will be fine. There are exceptions, so a roof pitch can be lower than 4/12, and steeper than 12/12, but those are not as common for residential framing. Also, build according to your local codes.
yeah, I realized this the hard way one time. Was going absolutely crazy how I could have screwed something up, especially when I measured four times and cut once. Turns out the plywood I'd just bought wasn't even square.
You do!! 1/8" gap on plywood too. The H clips they used on the long end serve that purpose if they provide 1/8" gap. However, you also need that gap on the short side.
If you'd used the spacers correctly there would not have been a need to get each sheet exact down to the last millimeter. The roof is now going to expand and contract against itself without the spacers and will throw off all the precise sheathing placement anyway. They should not be jammed up against each other.
@MattJonesYT: I agree with this. I understand the need to have a square roof, but a little spacing is necessary for potential changes due to moisture or heat, and doesn't rule out "squareness". Using a 10d nail as a spacer is one of the recommended ways to ensure a 1/8" space. Question I have in that case is this: say you are using h-clips between 4' x 8' sheets, for the purpose of load distribution at the h-clip joint points (i.e. not at the rafter join points), then do you need 1/8" separation as well as the 1/8" separation enforced by the h-clip? One solution to this, I suppose, is to always use 5/8"+ sheathing, in which case the h-clip is generally not required.
They used to be 2X4’s. Now called “full dimension” lumber; you’re right, a better product to work with. My brother’s house was built in the 1920’s with full dimension lumber. In some cities (Portland Oregon, for example)you can still find it, at the lumber recycling yards
You could do it that way, and yes, the bevel angle would be the same as the roof pitch, but that's a lot more work and you will have a smaller margin for error. It's much better to simply drop the facia board so it will hit the bottom of the roof sheathing.
Great video thanks. I'm building a patio roof right now and I've got two questions: 1. How long should be the nails to fix the plywood to the rafters? 2. I see that you put the plywood leveled with the fascia. Shouldn't it go over (outside a few cm to accommodate the rain gutter? I mean won't the water from the rain not fall completely into the rain gutter like that? Here in Japan they say that you should leave about 7cm, so that water will fall right into the rain gutter. I'd appreciate any comments.
Use number 8 nails for sheathing. The top edge (top corner) of the roof sheathing should be flush (even) with the facia board. Then a metal drip edge is nailed onto the edge, and that slightly overhangs above the gutter.
Wondering why you used 3 cut pieces of sheathing on upper roof instead of two. Wouldn't it be better if you used most of 8ft board on left, then cut second board for right side with cuts for pipe. You have a smaller board on the right with a weak corner where it is cut around pipe.
Thanks for the explanation. I'm a "weekend warrior" and have done many small projects, ie: built a pool house, finished a basement. I'm enjoying your videos, as well as videos from other builders, and learning a lot. My goal is to eventually build a smaller home (1200-1500sq.ft.) myself for retirement years. Thanks again for the great video series!
Indeed, a sawblade gap is essential. :) Also, instead of nailing the first sheets and you are concerned about being square, you can use a couple of screws.
Because with the sheathing on an angle with the pitch of the roof the squared off edge on the plywood would overhang the fascia a little so the 1/2 compensates for it. If it were a flat roof the edge of the plywood would butt up flush to the fascia and you wouldn't have a problem but since it's on an angle if you made it flush it would overhang the fascia.
Thank for the educational videos but everytime you swing that hammer I'm like, "Come ON!! What is that!" Please swing that hammer with some conviction and Umph!
I run my sway brace from where the top plate and bottom edge of the trussle meet. 90 degrees to the up ridge board area... And every 4 to 6 ft another one. This is more like for sheds... Especially those ladder gable ends. Gross. And my rat runs run along the base of the trussles at 3.5 not 1.5... Every 10 etc... Lateral bracing is installed that way and not at the bottom. Strong back as needed... You guys dont explain ridge openings either like if you should leave it closed on gable ends.. Blah blah. Freeze blocks? Scabs if you have to run boxed soffit
Your barge rafters are not supported properly that's because your lookouts are not installed properly. Would not want to be a roofer if I step on the edge where the barge rafters are.
NSM Construction Thanks for the reply. Although I realize that the barge rafters are short but I thought you were demonstrating the correct way to build the barge rafters for homes. If it's were a garden shed, then I wouldn't reply because yes the barge rafters are short and its a garden shed. Is it a garden shed or are you building a house for little people which perhaps requires a better way for the build? Oh well I guess it's only a garden shed that is being built.
Not to be a Safety Queen, but why risk falling while filming?? It's hard to just balance and work, but to think, present and film all this at once is too much of a risk. Put a harness on and strap it off among 3-4 of those rafters above you. You can still move around freely, but if you fall...you'll just have bruises and a video to go back and laugh at while watching. As far as the video, excellent job. Appreciate all the great in depth details and follow-up explanations. Well done!
I’ve watched quite a few of your videos and they seem informative. However the one thing that is just a tiny bit annoying as you say the word UM way too much
You listen to them, okay...it kind of seems like they know what they're talking about, then you watch them handle a 4x8 sheet of OSB and realize they don't know jack shit, lol.
Please consider to use proper PPE and be aware of using harness specially when working at Height. I'm just concern about your safety, for me to get more information from your resourceful videos.. excellent keep it up!
There's no real concern for safety with this example. I don't see any harnesses being used 6' off the ground no guardrails. The top of ladders are being used for scaffolding platforms which is quite dangerous without a railing. The finish work exposes all end grain and the plywood is missing a gap for expansion. I used to build like this 20 years ago when I did know anything so these guys need to crack open a book. They're on the right track but they just need a little bit more attention to certain details.
Small correction - you want 1/8" gap between the sheathing panels for expansion and contraction. Btw, I have watched a lot of your videos and I'd have to say that I'm very surprised that you guys don't have more views! Building that small building from scratch and just all of the knowledge you pass on has been excellent! Great job!
30 yrs. ago I destroyed a metal stud wall by by not leaving a gap in the 1/2 plywood I attached to it. Turns out wet plywood expands and warps a lot !
Whats wrong With H clips?
Was gonna say the same thing about the ⅛"gap
Does it apply for OSB as well? From my experience OSBs don't expand (almost) at all, plywood sheets do.
Kanal103 right. Osb is not directional. So each of the wood chip expand in different directions and overall they should balance out
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
My son-in-law, which I’m really proud of him I just think it’s wonderful. He just got his builders license but I was helping him on a project and he said they don’t use nothing larger than a half inch plywood or OSB on a brand new roof and I was like well that doesn’t sound right to me maybe on a Rishi but not on a brand new roof three-quarter bigger that’s what I’ve always used. Nice video would show this video to people that worked for me if I was still in the business.
In MI the code for roof decking is 5/8" minimum. I believe that's fairly standard for any area that may have snow load.
cali = 3/8 inch minimum
Like many others, just wanted to drop a line to say thank you for these informative videos - they've been really, really helpful! Thank you very much.
Have to say, that's more fun to do on that scale than when the rafters are 12 feet or more. :)
Good video, but if you secure some temporary blocks to the fascia that can hold the roof sheet in place without having to hold it square by hand.
Thank you for all this info! I am fairly handy but lack some specific knowledge. This video series really helped fill some gaps for me.
To second what Thomas and some others have said, I am amazed as the quality and quantity of excellent information you have conveyed in this series of videos. I took a very good framing and roofing course at the local community college and this stands a-tip-toe with that in terms of what and how you presented it. People would greatly benefit by spending some time watching your series you've presented here. Well done, my friend.
You should show us how to tie a gable roof to existing one. This is very common tipe of construction jobs so far , expecially front of the house. Good job guys
Very good videos. I am trying to put a gable roof on top of my existing deck. After watching this video, I have more confidence now. LOL...
I actually tested the theory of temperature affecting the expansion/contraction of wood. I found that temperature had little or no measurable effect, but moisture content did.
As an example; If the attic is 120⁰F in a desert climate, the moisture content of the wood will become low. But, 120⁰F in an area with 90% humidity will result in higher moisture content in the wood.
So, humidity has the most dramatic effect on the moisture content of wood. Moisture content being the main cause of expansion/contraction.
try again. attics are 25 to 40F HOTTER than air temp!!!! attics get 160F in deserts!!😳😳
@lunam7249
I used desert in the example due to the lack of humidity. At no point did I indicate that 120⁰ was the highest temperature an attic could get in a desert climate.
I stand by my original point. The moisture content of wood, not temperature, mostly affects wood's expansion and contraction. That is as long as the temperature is above freezing and below boiling.
@@cornpop7805 yes, wood remains "alive"
@lunam7249
I would say, wood's capillary action remains intactact after the plant has died. That is assuming the wood hasn't become petrified.
@@cornpop7805 yes. as a physicist its quite a magic material, especially when making a $4000000 strativarious violin, or holding up a 10 story building
Great series guys. Helped me a lot building my pool house.
Really great content and narration is spot on
Love the video
Nice work. Great channel
You guys ever leave gaps for ridge vents or's sheathing trusses a different beast for venting
Wheres the 1/8 gap between sheets in case of moisture expansion?
Nice vid! Question - If you laid the sheathing down and found that you've got about a 3-4" gap (or less than a 1') on both sides of the ridge, what do you do to fill the gap, especially when adding a ridge vent? Thin strip of OSB? Something else? (tough to find this answer through Google). Thanks!
You place a whole sheet at the ridge at least larger than 3' in width and put the 3-4" strip in the middle of the roof.
Ridge vent needs an inch or so on either side to vent the hot air but 3-4" is too much.
Great video. Most videos i see skip over roof egress.
Mines a 10 /12 pitch how do u get the first border plywood to sit even or level by your self 30 ft to the gutter ? Can you cut 2 ft by 8 ft and make it more managable
What type of nails (penny & finish) are you using
You forgot the 1/8 gap between the woods ?
At 10:17 what you mean pretty decent? Doesn’t it have to be right on the line?
Thank you very much for those great videos keep going sir!!!
i love how easy the plans are in NewShedPlans45.blogspot.com
to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy
i cant find 5/8 roof osb sheading what is the actual size stores listed it at??
I'm no pro but I know rafters are often not true (Crowning!). I'd measure up 48" from the ends of the rafters at each end of the roof, adjust for overhang for width of fascia. Then line up lower short corner of sheathing to be centered on a rafter, then flex the upper part of rafter to center on the upper corner of sheathing.
if you true up the sheathing to a rafter, and that rafter is bowed, then you're OSB is going to be crooked.
Shouldn’t I leave a one-eighth gap between OSB sheathing panels to accommodate expansion if installed during cooler weather?
use deck clips. H-clips.
@@thebluelunarmonkey, or sixteen penny nails
I'm in wa state, osb 7/16 or 1/2" cdx for house roof? 16" oc or 24" oc for roof? Thanks!
Thank you for these classes, very intersting, BRAVO
You guys do awesome good clean work! Thanks for your great videos!!
do you have line side up on the osb for tracktion purposes?
Slippy side is called death sheet or something
So the thing I can’t seem to figure out. What happens to the half inch gap inside under roof overhang? How is that sealed.
I think I would carry around one of those center finder contraptions to mark the center of the board.
do the plumbers usually come to put in the vent before the roof is on?
No that’s usually after
a shame you didn't talk about those temporary red platform bars that you stand on for safety... would love to know what they're called and where I can buy them
They are called Roof Jacks. The home depot or lowes name is Roof Bracket.
If you had a roof like mine with no overhang, where the roof sheathing meets the wall sheathing would you run the roof sheathing out overlapping the wall sheathing or would you run the wall sheathing up overlapping the roof sheathing, I have a steel roof with edge trim that covers the whole corner, I suppose if I had shingles then I might have a lip, then I would run the roof out overlapping the wall.
@@NSMConstruction Roger that!
Tongue and groove would eliminate the need for the H clips and provide a more solid connection between roof panels….no?
No
@@Zack-lq9tb do explain please.
price of roof would skyrocket!!!$$$
what about 1/8 " gaps for expansion
The H clips provide the gap
U start from the bottom?
I like the way we modify the English language depending on what town we live in. What the hell is a "fly rafter"? Or perhaps, for the last 50 years, I've been incorrectly referring to it as a barge rafter along with any construction publication you care to read. If you're going to waste time and money beveling the sub fascia why not bevel the first sheet of sheathing? Speaking of sheathing, many specs call for spacing, not "nice and tight"? Not that it's done often, but as an instructional video, you should.
another great video. thanks
I wish the framers that built my house would have beveled the facia and made the sheathing flush like that. I wouldn't have had to battle squirrels in my attic.
How do you determine what angle to cut the fascia? Also what are those brackets with the 2x4s your standing on?
You can use an angle gauge. He used his speed square.
Why are there only markings on one side of the sheathing?
Well done job, I live in Brazil, and I would like to make a roof like this in my house, and I would like to know, what is the minimum distance that should leave between the ceiling and the OSB, thanks in advance
If you use anything between a 4/12 and a 12/12 pitch, you will be fine. There are exceptions, so a roof pitch can be lower than 4/12, and steeper than 12/12, but those are not as common for residential framing. Also, build according to your local codes.
I always check square on sheathing. I have seen it be 3/8 out of square from the factory.
yeah, I realized this the hard way one time. Was going absolutely crazy how I could have screwed something up, especially when I measured four times and cut once. Turns out the plywood I'd just bought wasn't even square.
I thought you needed an 1/8” gap for expansion?
You do!! 1/8" gap on plywood too. The H clips they used on the long end serve that purpose if they provide 1/8" gap. However, you also need that gap on the short side.
Not needed if your house is indoors in a garage. Though
If you'd used the spacers correctly there would not have been a need to get each sheet exact down to the last millimeter. The roof is now going to expand and contract against itself without the spacers and will throw off all the precise sheathing placement anyway. They should not be jammed up against each other.
@MattJonesYT: I agree with this. I understand the need to have a square roof, but a little spacing is necessary for potential changes due to moisture or heat, and doesn't rule out "squareness". Using a 10d nail as a spacer is one of the recommended ways to ensure a 1/8" space. Question I have in that case is this: say you are using h-clips between 4' x 8' sheets, for the purpose of load distribution at the h-clip joint points (i.e. not at the rafter join points), then do you need 1/8" separation as well as the 1/8" separation enforced by the h-clip? One solution to this, I suppose, is to always use 5/8"+ sheathing, in which case the h-clip is generally not required.
I just wish 2x4s were actually 2" x4" that would be sweet.. and make hanging walls so much better, especially when you need a gap at the seams.
They used to be 2X4’s. Now called “full dimension” lumber; you’re right, a better product to work with. My brother’s house was built in the 1920’s with full dimension lumber.
In some cities (Portland Oregon, for example)you can still find it, at the lumber recycling yards
Why did you use h-clips to make a gap on the horizontal seams, but butted the vertical seams tight?
@@NSMConstruction in 40+ years I have never seen a failure in ANY plywood application from making a joint too tight
can sheathing go before fascia?
Perfect. Thanks for the response and thanks too for the wonderful videos.
no.
Hi, can you put the bevel on a 2x6 sub fascia also and if so do you set you saw to the degree that matches the pitch of your roof?
You could do it that way, and yes, the bevel angle would be the same as the roof pitch, but that's a lot more work and you will have a smaller margin for error. It's much better to simply drop the facia board so it will hit the bottom of the roof sheathing.
Great video thanks.
I'm building a patio roof right now and I've got two questions:
1. How long should be the nails to fix the plywood to the rafters?
2. I see that you put the plywood leveled with the fascia. Shouldn't it go over (outside a few cm to accommodate the rain gutter? I mean won't the water from the rain not fall completely into the rain gutter like that? Here in Japan they say that you should leave about 7cm, so that water will fall right into the rain gutter.
I'd appreciate any comments.
Use number 8 nails for sheathing.
The top edge (top corner) of the roof sheathing should be flush (even) with the facia board. Then a metal drip edge is nailed onto the edge, and that slightly overhangs above the gutter.
Plywood should be hanging down at least 1", otherwise you'll be nailing your drip edge into the 1x6 fascia or 1x2 edge trim.
do I also leave a 1/8" gap in the sheathing on the ends that share a rafter?
Are you referring to the ends of the sheathing that butt up to another sheet on top of the rafter? If so, then yes you would leave an 1/8 inch gap.
@@davidruff1127 Groovy, Thanks
dude - your boots look comfy - what are they? dead serious
Wondering why you used 3 cut pieces of sheathing on upper roof instead of two. Wouldn't it be better if you used most of 8ft board on left, then cut second board for right side with cuts for pipe. You have a smaller board on the right with a weak corner where it is cut around pipe.
Thanks for the explanation. I'm a "weekend warrior" and have done many small projects, ie: built a pool house, finished a basement. I'm enjoying your videos, as well as videos from other builders, and learning a lot. My goal is to eventually build a smaller home (1200-1500sq.ft.) myself for retirement years. Thanks again for the great video series!
I'll be watching!
Indeed, a sawblade gap is essential. :) Also, instead of nailing the first sheets and you are concerned about being square, you can use a couple of screws.
Barge soffit not a fly rafter,
Fly rafters are components of a hip roof
Hard hat, safety glasses and.......cowboy boots???? What?
The guys a knob.😂
Wtf are cowboy boots??? The little spurs on the heel would really bring it all together 😂
Why the 1/2" space between the edge of the plywood and fascia board ?
Because with the sheathing on an angle with the pitch of the roof the squared off edge on the plywood would overhang the fascia a little so the 1/2 compensates for it. If it were a flat roof the edge of the plywood would butt up flush to the fascia and you wouldn't have a problem but since it's on an angle if you made it flush it would overhang the fascia.
All the roofers I have seen use the 1/2 strand board..
Thank for the educational videos but everytime you swing that hammer I'm like, "Come ON!! What is that!" Please swing that hammer with some conviction and Umph!
Didn't know Chris Pratt's brother was a contractor that's cool
Tot sheets were tounge and grove
1:55 The ups did me in. Outta here.
I run my sway brace from where the top plate and bottom edge of the trussle meet. 90 degrees to the up ridge board area... And every 4 to 6 ft another one. This is more like for sheds... Especially those ladder gable ends. Gross. And my rat runs run along the base of the trussles at 3.5 not 1.5... Every 10 etc... Lateral bracing is installed that way and not at the bottom. Strong back as needed... You guys dont explain ridge openings either like if you should leave it closed on gable ends.. Blah blah. Freeze blocks? Scabs if you have to run boxed soffit
Good um video um
How can I control my sugar naturally?
You didn’t even check your reveal on the rafter and you didn’t leave a 1/8” gap between sheets!
Does the H Clip not account for the expansion joint? Don't need a gap for the horizontal but joints.
@@IdealistINFP verticle?
Your barge rafters are not supported properly that's because your lookouts are not installed properly. Would not want to be a roofer if I step on the edge where the barge rafters are.
NSM Construction Thanks for the reply. Although I realize that the barge rafters are short but I thought you were demonstrating the correct way to build the barge rafters for homes. If it's were a garden shed, then I wouldn't reply because yes the barge rafters are short and its a garden shed. Is it a garden shed or are you building a house for little people which perhaps requires a better way for the build? Oh well I guess it's only a garden shed that is being built.
Ladder gable overhangs are gross
What are lookouts
Good vid 👌 but you def need to work on your hammer skills🤣
Not to be a Safety Queen, but why risk falling while filming?? It's hard to just balance and work, but to think, present and film all this at once is too much of a risk. Put a harness on and strap it off among 3-4 of those rafters above you. You can still move around freely, but if you fall...you'll just have bruises and a video to go back and laugh at while watching. As far as the video, excellent job. Appreciate all the great in depth details and follow-up explanations. Well done!
I’ve watched quite a few of your videos and they seem informative. However the one thing that is just a tiny bit annoying as you say the word UM way too much
You listen to them, okay...it kind of seems like they know what they're talking about, then you watch them handle a 4x8 sheet of OSB and realize they don't know jack shit, lol.
yep!!, its obvious becuase their using a scaffold for the demo just like tv "this old house" its staged and so easy, try it on a real 12 foot roof!!!
Please consider to use proper PPE and be aware of using harness specially when working at Height. I'm just concern about your safety, for me to get more information from your resourceful videos.. excellent keep it up!
pretty sure 1/2 inch or 7/16 would be just fine for roof sheeting, should never use 3/8s
its not proper . Should be 3 0r 4 rows of starter board and then osb or plywood.
Wooden panels kinda siding. And they should be just nailed in place.
Its purpose is when you look from bellow you will see nice looking board not ugly osb.
And they should be on the lookouts too
Ive seen soffit i didnt knew its name but now i know. I am ,,Traditional'' carpenter i used to do it this way.
Mr. Marian Open soffits with starter boards are typically found in warmer climes.
@ 19:59 you talk about what your going to do INSTEAD of SHOWING US HOW ITS DONE.
I just wanna say y aren't they tied off their up higher the 6ft.
N
I guess I asked the question to soon below. You're using 8 penny nails.
Please try to consciously lose the Umm it makes listening difficult.
aah . . . Count them !
Emm....Emm....😆😅🤣😂
Ummmm ok
There's no real concern for safety with this example. I don't see any harnesses being used 6' off the ground no guardrails. The top of ladders are being used for scaffolding platforms which is quite dangerous without a railing. The finish work exposes all end grain and the plywood is missing a gap for expansion. I used to build like this 20 years ago when I did know anything so these guys need to crack open a book. They're on the right track but they just need a little bit more attention to certain details.
What book
uuum uuuum uuuuum....
Uhm uhm um Ummm ummm
Dude, I had to stop watching. Presenters that use umm, umm, umm, just gets really annoying. You should rehearse what you are trying to present.
uummmm , not quite sure ....what ummm you mean...ummmm
Ummm ummm ummm
Um um um um um guessed you um figured um what is um going on um ok
Shut up and work. Dang bro. You talk talk talk
Um ....Um......Um.....Um....Um.....Um....
OSB on a roof......ouch.
Nothing wrong with that
use this, makes it a lot easier when installing the first board ua-cam.com/video/lYMLNBigN9c/v-deo.html
ummmm.