Excellent tutorial, thanks for posting. Just picked up an '86 Colt 1.2hp for $140. Runs pretty good. Slight stumble at WOT, at 7/8 throttle it runs strong. I will be going thru it this winter.
Thanks for this video, I’ve just decided to service this same engine my family has at the lake house. It still starts fine, but the fuel/air mix knobs don’t do anything and once hit it doesn’t like going at high rpm. I’m gonna completely service it thanks to this video
Great video lots of info, this is what I find that works well to make rust pitted steel look much better. I use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator it converts the rust after you sandblast or sand or wire brush, its drys fast and can be recoated. Then it can be sanded which will fill the pits in a sense then recoat, this stuff is very hard and durable and is used by most automotive restorers. Then spray and over coat with rustoleum or something to keep it from losing some of it shine later. Parts will look very nice. Sounds like a lot but because it drys so fast can build up coats very quickly and several parts at once on cardboard or something. These parts will never rust again and the look is much more professional than painting over rust pitting.
With these engines I always pull the cylinder head off. The water passages are clogged most of the time.. It is a pleasure to watch your vids. Thanks for sharing! One other note ,I use my cordless drill to spin the engine when doing compression test.
I've got a 1999Johnson 2hp that isn't pumping water correctly, is there any way to clean it out without taking the head off? Feed a guitar string wire in or something?
@@slooob23 are you sure your impeller is good? The connecting grommet? Check that too, for missing rubber pieces,those can get inside the pipe. If you pull the lower unit, try to connect water to the brass tube, if that does not work , you have to pull the pwrhead apart...good luck
@@zoltanmagyar1273 actually, it could be the impeller, I'll get a new one and also try the pipe thing to see if there's any blockage. It's a great little motor, it looks as new. The guy I got it from sold it to me cheap because it was leaking fuel everywhere. I pulled the carb and the problem was just a stuck needle valve. It was pumping water fine for a while, but where I go fishing it is quite weedy and often gets debris sucked in. Thanks for your reply.
@@slooob23 if you drop the lower unit,put it in a bucket wit water in it,and spin it with a drill,minding the rotation. You will immediatelly see if the impeller is good or not
Hey Brandon how you may I ask if you have a tutorial or know where I can watch a tutorial on how to properly adjust the low and high speeds on my 1976 evinrude 2 stroke 2hp please?
The first time I tried to look inside an Evinrude 2, I thought the philips screw in the center of the cover was how you removed the top cover. Once I took out the actual top cover screws - BOIIIINNG!
Excellent work, I have an engine just like this one and I intend to do maintenance on it, your video will help me a lot. What is the function of this rusty piece that you touch on it at 6:22?
33:42 , it’s pick up but a shoot from here water spout tube, and grease not on top of drive shaft to prevent hydraulic lock, you want full engagement baby - good video dude
Thnx..fir tbe video, in the process of restoring a 1979 2hp johnson...dont no one thing about it...it ran out of water put it in bucket within seconds and it stalled wont fire back up...any ideas hope i didnt mess anything up
Wow, that thing looks like it was used in salt water. Major rust.... bought a solid state ignition block for mine and will be installing it this winter. No more points to play with. Nice video guy. When running correctly these things will get you around in a 12 foot boat or square stern canoe and will get down and troll pretty nicely.
why go through all that just get an original Stens ignition module 440-065 NOT the 440-465's and go boating. will idle and start way better than the original points could ever do. picked up 200rpms on top, too. all for $15.
Great video! I have a very similar model; a Johnson Seahorse 2HP from 1989. I need to replace the gaskets but I was wondering if there is a cheaper way than buying the original spare parts for $25+. Perhaps I could cut out my own gaskets in the right fit?
Hey man do you know where my mixture screw and high speed screw positions should be please? same outboard, had a problem with the points (no spark) then had it going really well and had no spark again (points had moved) then cleaned gunk out of carb, now its running but with a miss it wont scream up.
guitar string works good.very flexable and strong and you can choose what size u want.usually the b or g string.great for cleaning carbs too.you can pull or push with it.
@@TylerLL2112 I use medium 1st string alot and sometimes 2nd probably 9 thru 17 mediums are 13 1st and 17 second.one smaller will just be a good addition to a set for occasion.hey, working on a 68 9.5 and can't get screw in front to tighten that is top pivot point goin from side to side.you know if that nut might be skipping around and round and or is it a bushing.i have a pic of parts but you know how pricey that is for few washers and bushing and nut.just wondering if you might know why it seems to just slip.nothin seems to have ever been worked on.tjank you
All I want to know if drive shaft comes out with the lower unit or it stays with motor inside the leg when you take the lower unit off for impeller replacement?Thank's
Thanks for the reply! I own 1952 Evinrude 3 horse and 1982 gamefisher 5 horse. Never had an issue to change a impeller on neither of them. I got these 1992 Johnson three horse I've decided to change impeller took two bolts of lower unit. When I pull it down it came out for quarter of inch and stopped. Somebody on the UA-cam suggested to gently tap it down with rubber hammer. It took just 2taps and lower unit came out .driveshaft shifting shaft and water tube remain to stay in the leg . Then I took apart motors off the legto see if driveshaft rust down and stock into the ckrank receiver. And I see no signs of rust in driveshaft firmly pressed into that receiver . I've tried to press it out. But whatever driveshaft spine go into the receiver he's very soft it seems like it's tube like material.so I don't want to force it anything until I know for sure it's supposed to come out just by pulling down
Nice job! I'm waiting for my parts to arrive. I never got the driveshaft out of the power head. It's seized in there good. I ended up opening the gearbox and removing the pinion gear and dropping the lower end that way. We'll see how much of a pain it is to replace the water pump.
Success! I ended up using a method I saw on UA-cam with two pieces of metal plate and some nuts and bolts. I used a "U" piece from a wire rope clip that just fit in the machined area right before the splines for the pinion gear. I then forced it out with the plate, nut and bolt method. It bent one of the plates but it did end up coming out. Everything's cleaned up and waiting for the water pump. Thanks again for the reply.
I had a bunch of penetrating oil on it from trying to get it loose, so with some scrubbing it came clean. My parts came in the next day so I got it all put back together and running. I even took it out for a spin on my 12 ft Sun Dolphin the day after. It goes along at a nice pace. An improvement over the 30lb thrust electric trolling motor that I was using. Thanks again for the help and for the video's!
Awesomely informative vid. I just acquired one of these little babies and I am hoping to give it some love. I’m little confused about how to use what looks like the carb air regulator dials on the front. Any ideas?
↑ ↑ ↑ That is an incorrect answer. 75w90 or 80w90 gear oil works fine in the lower unit. Fill to about 90-95% capacity to allow for thermal expansion of the oil.
What is the chemical that you say in your videos that you use to run through the gas to clean things out and get it running better? I have a Yamaha injected 40 HP. I have cleaned the carbs on it now twice and it is running rough yet again this year. Any suggestions? I think sludge is moving through from the bottom of the fuel tank. Thanks
I have an earlier motor, the Johnson mate. 1,5 hp. It has always annoyed me it doesn't have a carrier handle but I see that this motor has one. Is it original or was it fitted later? If original would it fit on my mate, if I buy one? Great video! Thanks!
Hi Brandon, thanks for the video, I'm working on mine and I'm VERY excited to get it on the water! I don't know how to tell on this model if it's cooling correctly. I checked the impeller system and everything is working great, but does this motor pee? Where does the water expel from? Also what type of gear oil did you use in the gear case? Thank you!
The best way to permanently restore small steel parts is by using electrolysis. It removes every spec of rust and after painting correctly they will be as good as new.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any tricks you can offer me
Out of interest another way of locking the engine is by removing the spark plug then feeding rope into the cylinder at the bottom of the piston stroke. Turn the engine until it locks up very simple. Can be done easily on any 2 stroke engine.
Carb cleaner, comes in gallon tins from auto parts stores. Fwiw, tohatsu recommends using isopropanol only in the service manual (but if you're stripping and replacing the gaskets and everything and don't leave the aluminum in the bucket too long you're probably fine)
Great video. Did you decide what you were going to do with the motor? Also, did you find the two screws you mentioned at 37:04? Mine was also missing those screws so I purchased 2 SS bolts that would fit. This remedied a heavy leak from the carb when the motor was trimmed all the way up. I was curious to know what their purpose was. Is it just for direct attachment of the air silencer to the carb?
Yes, I ordered one, then went and bought one at the hardware store. Seems like they just attach the silencer and front cover. I will say the engine feels a lot more solid with them installed. And no, its current purpose is holding down an engine stand.
My engine went to a new level with them installed. Is there some type of overflow connected to the right hole or are they just threaded holes? Would you happen to be able to answer a troubleshooting question about this motor? (1) Can the needle packing (High & Low speed) be replaced with rubber O-rings? (2) My high speed needle is slightly bent on the threaded part, I get fuel running out of the choke or intake (I suspect from the high speed valve/venturi. Think the carb is drawing in air at the high speed needle that is bent? Any tips would be appreciated as I am just a weekender mechanic.
Those little 2 HP OMCs were good little motors.Even as they age people still buy them from my research and will pay up to $250.00 for one around here even the old ones. Great kicker motors for little dingys,inflatables and as ferry motors for small boats to get to there moorings.There so versatile and light weight always a market for them when they run right and look clean just a note............ Glenn in N.Y.
Thank you doing this video, it got me through the water pump and impeller replacement. The directions that come with the kit suck. Look like they were been copied a thousand times and the photos were all blurry.
Excellent tutorial, thanks for posting. Just picked up an '86 Colt 1.2hp for $140. Runs pretty good. Slight stumble at WOT, at 7/8 throttle it runs strong. I will be going thru it this winter.
Nice job and your shop practices (use of gasket sealing compound, etc.) are nice to see in this day and time!
never use gasket sealant on fuel systems
Very thorough outboard motor service congratulations. Excellent video.
Thanks for this video, I’ve just decided to service this same engine my family has at the lake house. It still starts fine, but the fuel/air mix knobs don’t do anything and once hit it doesn’t like going at high rpm. I’m gonna completely service it thanks to this video
Great video lots of info, this is what I find that works well to make rust pitted steel look much better. I use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator it converts the rust after you sandblast or sand or wire brush, its drys fast and can be recoated. Then it can be sanded which will fill the pits in a sense then recoat, this stuff is very hard and durable and is used by most automotive restorers. Then spray and over coat with rustoleum or something to keep it from losing some of it shine later. Parts will look very nice. Sounds like a lot but because it drys so fast can build up coats very quickly and several parts at once on cardboard or something. These parts will never rust again and the look is much more professional than painting over rust pitting.
With these engines I always pull the cylinder head off. The water passages are clogged most of the time..
It is a pleasure to watch your vids. Thanks for sharing!
One other note ,I use my cordless drill to spin the engine when doing compression test.
I've got a 1999Johnson 2hp that isn't pumping water correctly, is there any way to clean it out without taking the head off? Feed a guitar string wire in or something?
@@slooob23 are you sure your impeller is good? The connecting grommet? Check that too, for missing rubber pieces,those can get inside the pipe. If you pull the lower unit, try to connect water to the brass tube, if that does not work , you have to pull the pwrhead apart...good luck
@@zoltanmagyar1273 actually, it could be the impeller, I'll get a new one and also try the pipe thing to see if there's any blockage. It's a great little motor, it looks as new. The guy I got it from sold it to me cheap because it was leaking fuel everywhere. I pulled the carb and the problem was just a stuck needle valve. It was pumping water fine for a while, but where I go fishing it is quite weedy and often gets debris sucked in. Thanks for your reply.
@@slooob23 if you drop the lower unit,put it in a bucket wit water in it,and spin it with a drill,minding the rotation. You will immediatelly see if the impeller is good or not
THANK YOU so much for your vid...that pull starter was kicking my ass
Mine exactly too, here's to giving it a try now :)
Hey Brandon how you may I ask if you have a tutorial or know where I can watch a tutorial on how to properly adjust the low and high speeds on my 1976 evinrude 2 stroke 2hp please?
In Hell, they make you reassemble recoil starters all day long
The first time I tried to look inside an Evinrude 2, I thought the philips screw in the center of the cover was how you removed the top cover. Once I took out the actual top cover screws - BOIIIINNG!
Haahah, i did same but spring is easy to put back
Just did the same thing, do you have more info on procedure to rewind the spring
I did this also . Now i have to put it back on lol.
Thanks
That was very helpful
I am in the process of servicing back to operation my jhonson 4.0 outboard engine after a 30+ years of storage 😅
thanks for the videos, i took mine apart about 3 years ago and couldnt remember how it went back together lol! that starter coil is annoying for sure
Can you tell me how I tune the basic setting of the carb?
Woah; at 3:20 when you pulled the impeller out, was the key still in the shaft?
Thanks for all the work. Helped out getting a friends motor purring
Can u do a video on setting the rich lean carb adjustment?
That would be super useful. I am having a really hard time adjusting the idle on my Evinrude 4 HP.
Very, very late, but it’s usually 1.5 turns out from gently seated for the low speed, and 3/4 turn on high speed
Great video. Thank you. Never had to dig in that far but. Thanks.
Excellent work, I have an engine just like this one and I intend to do maintenance on it, your video will help me a lot.
What is the function of this rusty piece that you touch on it at 6:22?
It's a carrying handle
33:42 , it’s pick up but a shoot from here water spout tube, and grease not on top of drive shaft to prevent hydraulic lock, you want full engagement baby - good video dude
انك ماهر في صيانه المكاءن أتمنى لك التوفيق
What does the hex head screw in the cam follower do? Just went through the carb and can’t figure out how far the screw was turned in
i have the same motor. the starter spring was a pain in the butt. My motor doesn’t stream out water but instead sprays mist. what should i do?
got my new starter spring in my 200 dollar offer up 2hp seahorse , runs good. 200 well spent today
Thnx..fir tbe video, in the process of restoring a 1979 2hp johnson...dont no one thing about it...it ran out of water put it in bucket within seconds and it stalled wont fire back up...any ideas hope i didnt mess anything up
Head gasket
Wow, that thing looks like it was used in salt water. Major rust.... bought a solid state ignition block for mine and will be installing it this winter. No more points to play with. Nice video guy. When running correctly these things will get you around in a 12 foot boat or square stern canoe and will get down and troll pretty nicely.
why go through all that just get an original Stens ignition module 440-065 NOT the 440-465's and go boating. will idle and start way better than the original points could ever do. picked up 200rpms on top, too. all for $15.
With all that work, was surprised you didn't check the waterways for blockages
Great video! I have a very similar model; a Johnson Seahorse 2HP from 1989. I need to replace the gaskets but I was wondering if there is a cheaper way than buying the original spare parts for $25+. Perhaps I could cut out my own gaskets in the right fit?
Hey man do you know where my mixture screw and high speed screw positions should be please? same outboard, had a problem with the points (no spark) then had it going really well and had no spark again (points had moved) then cleaned gunk out of carb, now its running but with a miss it wont scream up.
De donde compraste las piezas
What is part # for spring?
guitar string works good.very flexable and strong and you can choose what size u want.usually the b or g string.great for cleaning carbs too.you can pull or push with it.
What gauge set? I keep 9s and 10s around and that seems like that would be decent.
@@TylerLL2112 I use medium 1st string alot and sometimes 2nd probably 9 thru 17 mediums are 13 1st and 17 second.one smaller will just be a good addition to a set for occasion.hey, working on a 68 9.5 and can't get screw in front to tighten that is top pivot point goin from side to side.you know if that nut might be skipping around and round and or is it a bushing.i have a pic of parts but you know how pricey that is for few washers and bushing and nut.just wondering if you might know why it seems to just slip.nothin seems to have ever been worked on.tjank you
I have same engine no spark I replaced coil, wire and points and suggestions?
Hi Brandon, great Job, this litte Colt seems to run pretty decent. Can you tell me how you adjusted the knobs to make it run / start so easy? Cheers
Excellent video!!
thanks so much repairing the recoil spring i can do it in a minute now my only problem is getting the gearshaft back in
All I want to know if drive shaft comes out with the lower unit or it stays with motor inside the leg when you take the lower unit off for impeller replacement?Thank's
It stays attached to the lower unit.
Thanks for the reply! I own 1952 Evinrude 3 horse and 1982 gamefisher 5 horse. Never had an issue to change a impeller on neither of them. I got these 1992 Johnson three horse
I've decided to change impeller took two bolts of lower unit. When I pull it down it came out for quarter of inch and stopped. Somebody on the UA-cam suggested to gently tap it down with rubber hammer. It took just 2taps and lower unit came out .driveshaft shifting shaft and water tube remain to stay in the leg . Then I took apart motors off the legto see if driveshaft rust down and stock into the ckrank receiver. And I see no signs of rust in driveshaft firmly pressed into that receiver . I've tried to press it out. But whatever driveshaft spine go into the receiver he's very soft it seems like it's tube like material.so I don't want to force it anything until I know for sure it's supposed to come out just by pulling down
If it helps model number is J3RENM
Nice job! I'm waiting for my parts to arrive. I never got the driveshaft out of the power head. It's seized in there good. I ended up opening the gearbox and removing the pinion gear and dropping the lower end that way. We'll see how much of a pain it is to replace the water pump.
You should get that out of there somehow...
Do you have a brake line flare tool?
Success! I ended up using a method I saw on UA-cam with two pieces of metal plate and some nuts and bolts. I used a "U" piece from a wire rope clip that just fit in the machined area right before the splines for the pinion gear. I then forced it out with the plate, nut and bolt method. It bent one of the plates but it did end up coming out. Everything's cleaned up and waiting for the water pump. Thanks again for the reply.
Oh, perfect!
Good to hear.
Going to wire-wheel the spines clean?
I had a bunch of penetrating oil on it from trying to get it loose, so with some scrubbing it came clean. My parts came in the next day so I got it all put back together and running. I even took it out for a spin on my 12 ft Sun Dolphin the day after. It goes along at a nice pace. An improvement over the 30lb thrust electric trolling motor that I was using. Thanks again for the help and for the video's!
Awesomely informative vid. I just acquired one of these little babies and I am hoping to give it some love. I’m little confused about how to use what looks like the carb air regulator dials on the front. Any ideas?
Saved me again! Thank you
Ive got the same engine, struggling to get it going. I don't have knobs on the needles for the carb - how far do they need to be wound in? Thanks
What type of gear oil does it take??
These little ones don't
↑ ↑ ↑ That is an incorrect answer. 75w90 or 80w90 gear oil works fine in the lower unit. Fill to about 90-95% capacity to allow for thermal expansion of the oil.
What is the chemical that you say in your videos that you use to run through the gas to clean things out and get it running better? I have a Yamaha injected 40 HP. I have cleaned the carbs on it now twice and it is running rough yet again this year. Any suggestions? I think sludge is moving through from the bottom of the fuel tank. Thanks
What state are you in? Do you have people send you motors for repair?
Love recoils... NOT... had my battles with them too... great job getting it running... just bought one today.... cellar find.... and the fun begins...
Great video helps a lot Thanks
I have an earlier motor, the Johnson mate. 1,5 hp. It has always annoyed me it doesn't have a carrier handle but I see that this motor has one. Is it original or was it fitted later? If original would it fit on my mate, if I buy one? Great video! Thanks!
Hi Brandon great videos what sealant compound could I use instead of omc sealent compound lm in the uk
I'm pretty sure you can buy some on EBay
Halomer
Is that an aftermarket pulley because the one on mine is metal?
Maybe yours is older?
@@BrandonsGarage it's metal with screws it seems I have to wind the ripcord at the same time as the spring you can't feed it through it is screwed in
Am I missing a washer? My Starter pulley seems loose? The coil spring keeps failing. I saw a diagram with a washer but did not see one in your video
Hi Brandon, thanks for the video, I'm working on mine and I'm VERY excited to get it on the water! I don't know how to tell on this model if it's cooling correctly. I checked the impeller system and everything is working great, but does this motor pee? Where does the water expel from? Also what type of gear oil did you use in the gear case? Thank you!
The best way to permanently restore small steel parts is by using electrolysis. It removes every spec of rust and after painting correctly they will be as good as new.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any tricks you can offer me
@Rayan Wade Instablaster ;)
Out of interest another way of locking the engine is by removing the spark plug then feeding rope into the cylinder at the bottom of the piston stroke. Turn the engine until it locks up very simple. Can be done easily on any 2 stroke engine.
Does anyone know what liquid is in the little container that he puts the carb and other components in to clean?
Carb cleaner, comes in gallon tins from auto parts stores. Fwiw, tohatsu recommends using isopropanol only in the service manual (but if you're stripping and replacing the gaskets and everything and don't leave the aluminum in the bucket too long you're probably fine)
Hey I asked you a question on the last video shirt hand version, can you use a timing light to tell if one of your coil is not working properly?
Yeah, sounds about right.
Corect
Awesome content 💯👍
Great video. Did you decide what you were going to do with the motor? Also, did you find the two screws you mentioned at 37:04? Mine was also missing those screws so I purchased 2 SS bolts that would fit. This remedied a heavy leak from the carb when the motor was trimmed all the way up. I was curious to know what their purpose was. Is it just for direct attachment of the air silencer to the carb?
Yes, I ordered one, then went and bought one at the hardware store.
Seems like they just attach the silencer and front cover.
I will say the engine feels a lot more solid with them installed.
And no, its current purpose is holding down an engine stand.
My engine went to a new level with them installed. Is there some type of overflow connected to the right hole or are they just threaded holes? Would you happen to be able to answer a troubleshooting question about this motor? (1) Can the needle packing (High & Low speed) be replaced with rubber O-rings? (2) My high speed needle is slightly bent on the threaded part, I get fuel running out of the choke or intake (I suspect from the high speed valve/venturi. Think the carb is drawing in air at the high speed needle that is bent? Any tips would be appreciated as I am just a weekender mechanic.
Great video!Do you have any experience with 1992 Jhonson 3hp?
some!
Those little 2 HP OMCs were good little motors.Even as they age people still buy them from my research and will pay up to $250.00 for one around here even the old ones. Great kicker motors for little dingys,inflatables and as ferry motors for small boats to get to there moorings.There so versatile and light weight always a market for them when they run right and look clean just a note............ Glenn in N.Y.
You can get them for $40 this time of year.
Brandon's Garage where?
anyone know what the gap is for this spark plug?
my owner's manual indicates .040"
If you run the gas/oil mixture at 50:1 (engine will live longer), close the gap down to .030 or .035 and the plug won't foul as quickly.
Thanks for the great video, enjoyed your work!
Great motor 👌.
Thank you doing this video, it got me through the water pump and impeller replacement. The directions that come with the kit suck. Look like they were been copied a thousand times and the photos were all blurry.
mine the waterpump is different. same engine but 1974. every waterpump part are in metal not plastic
Great content! xtra plus for the links.
Great, great job!! Awesome!
Very very good
Wow
👍
Молодец!
That pull start mechanism is a POS. Installation is like trying to tame a bag full of wildcats.
I noticed u had the needle valve out when u were cleaning the carb..how do u set that when u screw back in...trial and error?