Beginner's Guide: Getting a better finish on your models
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- Опубліковано 8 бер 2011
- This ancient video is now all beat up and has mutes due to claims on the cheesy old noughties music, so I'll remake something similiar soon. Check out my more recent stuff instead.
Old description: As requested - this is the first in a new series for new modellers or inexperienced guys looking to improve. A quick look at the basic core techniques behind getting the model right, before the paint goes on, to improve the finish of the model.
Getting a nice, clean, smooth surface finish BEFORE you paint the model is the key to being able to get a perfect paint finish. If the plastic underneath is rough and cut up then no paintjob will cover it up.
This video also covers the basic tools for construction. - Навчання та стиль
Audio muted due to a claim on the old background music... I will make a new one soon check my channel out for the more recent videos
videos are way way better not having irritating music in the background when someone is talking its just irritating
@@casscamden740 none of my recent videos have music, this is ancient and it was just normal back then to have haggard backing music
@@casscamden740 AGREED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO MUSIC
Please do, I'd very much like to know what you're saying around the 8:10 mark
@@aarongaponoff9489 if memory serves it was in relation to the issues caused when sanding a small area on a "non sandable" primer like vallejo. Someone commented below that they actually liked the effect, and in truth yes it does look a lot like what you see in museums. These days with newer primers this doesn't happen however and the edges of small sanded areas feather nicely.
Excellent video, Sir. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Cheers from Texas
Very nicely done. Plenty of information with a simple demonstration to show how well it works. Great tutorial, thanks for your time and effort.
Good basic information for people who are getting into the hobby or getting back into it. ..well done
Thank you so much! I never would have known how to fix my models without this video! I just can't thank you enough!
Love your videos. Very informative. Your weathering and color modulation Tuts are simply awesome.
Great tutorial, as a fairly new model builder I learnt a fair bit, thank you sir and greetings from Australia.
Thanks for your video. I always learn something new!
Extremely good! Very instructive! Thanks!
Very informative and concise. Good job.
I love your videos, I am just getting into building and painting scale models, your videos are really helpful to me and I've learnt loads!
Good video looking forward to morefrom you in the future . Well done .
With the uneven layer you created with the "wrong" way you showed at the end (primer before filler) you recreated EXACTLY what steelwork looks like on a ship when it's been chipped and repainted a bunch of times... maybe not the effect you were looking for on a smooth surface but that could be an excellent effect for someone building a weathered ship!
Well I'm trying to learn the right way. Where would you recommend?
Thank you for this great informative video. As somebody brand new to the craft it was very helpful.
Thanks for translating for the US viewers. ;)
Thanks for a solid instructional video.
Lovely video. Very helpful info.
Scratching off some of the paint and adding another coat of primer gave it a pretty cool effect like the vehicle was touched up where it was chipping paint. Great video mate. :)
Well done. Nice video and very helpful.
Very interesting and useful video.
Wow! That was awesome! I put together 1/87; HO scale railroad kits and I can use some of those techniques. Thank you!!
Great video thanks for the great information.
Great video, and some very helpful tips!
Good to see you back on the 'tube'! I think this is a great idea, beginner techniques like these are always in high demand (judging by all the messages I get) and I'm glad to see you've chosen to make this series. Not only will it be extremely helpful to many but it will be a nice break from all the more involved work.
I just want to say that I believe you are best modeler on the entirety of UA-cam
Thank you! Excellent. Great videos.
Thank you for this very informative vid.
This is a brilliant video thanks.
Excellent vid! Thanks for sharing your expertise ;)
Toe nail clippers are much easier to clean-cut parts from the tree and only occasionally needs trim.
Thanks for posting this video and your effort!
Great tips, many thanks.
You inspire me to up my game in model making. I am retired from the Air Force and I have given myself the project of making models of the aircraft associated with my career. Your videos really help.
Thanks, that's the payoff for me right there. I'm not much of an aircraft modeller so unfortunately most my videos may not be much help but whatever you can learn I'm glad to have been of assistance
New sub. Just getting in to airplane modeling. Been wanting to for many years now. Finally have the time. :-) I like your fastidiousness. I'm looking forward to having "nice looking" products. For that, I need help and advice. That's where you come in. :-) Thank you for your posts.
Awesome vid mate!
Some more tutorials from u would be really good!
good for any hobbyist! nice vid!
Great video. Thanks.
Great useful information for people like me. I'm learning stuff all the time. Thanks...........David
thanks mate, appreciate it
ScaleModelMedic You're welcome.....
MrChoochoo TTC
Good stuff!
Very helpful for someone returning to the hobby after a long(very long!) time. To be honest when I did models as a kid I didn't even worry about proper techniques or finishing and they turned out pretty rough & ready so I hope to achieve much better results this time :)
We are In the same boat. I'm getting back into it as an adult. I think I was better as a kid tho lol
well done.
Thanks for the primer.
Good video.I my self will use denatured alcohol with 3M spot putty to thin it out.
Great tutorial. That example of filing over primer would actually work for military vehicles like tanks since that is what most of the finishes actually look like.
+rochat Yeah.. Looks like hot rolled steel
+rochat I was thinking the exact same thing.
Nice video, thanks for posting :)
thank you for sharing
Great videos. I watch them often to get better. What grit do you start with and end with? I still see scratches come through on my primer surface. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing
Superb vids and very informative! Could you let me know where you get your sanding sponges from please? Many thanks
please do more videos, I cant wait months for the next one!!
@paintpitproduction the Vallejo primer you see in this video doesn't need anything for thinning, you just put it straight into the airbrush! the same applies to any of the Vallejo AIR paints - they're designed to airbrush without the need to use thinners....that's why they're the only paint I use !
Files, GREAT TIP THANKS!
I like to keep a tooth brush around.
After filing i'll use the brush to remove any left over burs from the model. Or, if any excess plastic flakes are trying to catch a ride, you can knock them off as well.
well made video!
Great video, very helpful! Do you use an Adhesion Aid (spray) before filling or at any other time? I've heard that it makes it easier to get a smooth join between the filler and the plastic when filling seams? thanks
Great video. If I understand corretly, you first fill gaps and sand the parts and then prime the model. Have to fill joint gaps and I´ll use Mr. Surfacer 1000. Can I use wet sandpaper or I use coarse, medium and fine sanding sticks?
you the best in the biz dale.
May I suggest a pair of flush cutting diagonal cutters made for Jewelers. They're great for cutting parts off of sprues.
Cool tips
@ShaneFrakes yes it is an interesting effect. This is why I am always encouraging people to experiment, it's amazing how simple things can generate effects. If you want a perfectly smooth finish then it would be a disaster, BUT if you were looking for that "pitted" paint effect then you just found your new method. Experiment, experiment, experiment. It's the golden rule !
Is that old school command and conquer music playing in the back ground?
found the tools video! disregard previous request for tools video.. cheers!
Great vid! That MAY DAAII thing tho! 😦
Not sure why there are 20+ dislikes. I thought you did a nice job demonstrating a process many modelers see as daunting.
never really noticed that before, but this video is old and modelling is a fickle hobby, so I won't read too much into it mate! cheers for watching
I am actually watching this before finishing my Harrier.
Good vid for us oldies getting back into the habit, I'm more of a 1/48 scale ww2 aircraft builder, but the sanding sponges you use, I've tried to find them without success, do you know a good stockist where I can order some, at present, I use the wife's old emery board nail files, thanks
I sometimes take the primer off and repaint those areas again to produce that effect of layers of paint s on a vehicles,
william mcdorman guess that's the good thing about military stuff the paints not perfect
Good video. Make more :)
I'd personally want that look of primer on top of primer. If you've been around any kind of equipment at all you'd know that nobody completely strips the paint, they just go over everything in one thick coat giving it that effect. Just making a case for doing so for realism
Basic info we all need once and a while....tks.
Cheers,
Gerry
@cheech381 I know what you're saying about the files clogging up. A wire brush usually sorts them out, but normally a quick blast with the airbrush will clean that stuff off.
The drill was a gift from my saving grace from Iowa (he knows who he is!) so I don't know where you can get the exact same one but try searching online. Micromark would be a good place to start.
are you using a single colour primer over the top once you've finished filling and sanding? this should return everything to the same colour before painting and avoid any areas being brighter.
To save using the rod, I cut off the sprue number tag, glue the flat side behind the hole and fill the hole with putty.
I prefer using something that would ordinarily be thrown away than rod which can be used for something else.
Plus you can guarantee that when you come to really need the rod it won't quite be long enough because you've used a few mils of it filling a hole!
1701spacecadet
Good idea! I'll try that.
Spare the rod and spoil the sprue.
I know this is an old video but I just got back into modelling by trying to put together the Star Trek AMT 50th Anniversary Enterprise and my problem is pretty much what you showed toward the end of where I applied tamiya putty to the gaps after painting with primer. Now I have that gouging rough texture surface. How can that be fixed?
@cheech381 That's a can of lacquer thinners. It's a VERY strong thinner, it'll destroy most plastics if you slosh it on. Lacquer thinners can be used to thin Tamiya paints, oil paints and enamels, but it's not the kind of thinner you want to go spraying around too much, the fumes are literally a killer. I use it only to thin my putty and clean my airbrush, never for painting.
@foofydoo it's vallejo polyeurethane primer - you should be able to get it online
@ModelloursWorkshop it's all about supply and demand mate, I get TONS of comments and messages from beginners asking me questions. I have covered so many advanced techniques on my channel, but for guys who are just getting started these methods can be ruined by not mastering the basics before they paint. I'm hoping to help fix this with a series on the core techniques, but still adding more advanced videos at the same time!
Very nice...thanks
Hi Prima😎
Yo primo
@Machinepriest These particular ones are from a company called MDC - modeldesignconstruction. I can't put the link in here, it doesn't let me, but you can google them.
also hiroboy dot com does a set !
these are the thing most asked about lately !
@ScaleModelMedic what kind of thinner is that? What base I mean? I really want to know what kind of thinners can be used with other manufactures paints. Eg can I use revell thinner with vallejo or GW paints for use in an airbrush for exampe. All my paints are acrylic but U just never lnow. But knowing what they are made of would help I suppose.
Which grits of sanding sponges are you using?
And the styrene rods, where can i find those? Hobbycraft near me sells them in very limited sizes and they are really expensive as well, i see yours were much cheaper.
@Garciamrcool
I wish I could do them faster, but there's a lot of work goes into each video and editing takes time too....
Is this the same voice on the Humbrol website? He narrated the 1/72 spitfire build.
i think he is
Yeah he did the humbrol vids!
hanscombe72 j
If I applied to much acrylic paint and the finish is not smooth, can I use sand paper to smooth it out? Or what is the best thing to do after you made a horrible paintjob?
Hi mate, loved the vid You always have something new to show us/me!
I do have a couple of questions for you though.
What can one do to clean a file like yours after they clog up? Or do U just throw em? Where can I obtain one of those pin vices? Never seen em like that before
Cheers
I, too, am wondering how to clean the needle files of plastic, glue, paint, putty, etc.
@ScaleModelMedic Purchased! The stuff I've been using are too big. Thanks!
I've used Elmers white glue with either baking soda or flour as a thickener as a filler. Works great.
+BennyCFD Any particular portion used?
I just eyeball it to a spreadable paste. You can used flower also, Plaster of paris.
+BennyCFD Tq, will give it a shot. :-)
Hi where can i buy the sanding sponges from? thanks.
from where do you purchase models???
Thanks!!!
cool!
Great video. Still learning all this - could you please say what sanding sponges you use? Many thanks.
Back when I did this video i was using generic ones as they were pretty new back then. Nowadays all I use is the Sanders from ultimate modelling products. They're a top notch product and the support you can get from their channel is second to none really. Search for international scale modeller on UA-cam
I buy a variety of the sanding and buffing sponges they sell at salon supply stores like Sally Beauty Supply. They are about a dollar and change apiece, and since my wife joined their savings club I can put in her phone number to get a further discount on them. They are much cheaper than the hobby versions such as made by Testors that you find at Hobby Lobby.
was that a front of a panther model?
I need an help!
I saw you use those "abrasive sponge" and I really think it's time to buy them. I usually glue a piece of abrasive paper on a piece of wood but it's not flexible like the sponges.
Where I can find them? What is their brand and name? Is there an online shop that sell them (in Italy I cannot find them in regolar bricolage shops).
TIA
Good video Any advice for painting plastic model kits using enamel paint it seems no matter what i do to the plastic wash it clean it etc the paint will not take very well i end of having to do 2 coats then you get brush marks etc.I have tried a clear plastic primer but that did not seem to make much of a difference cheers
First, try to thin the paint or use an airbrush to get a smooth finish
what primer are you using and where can you get it from
How do you thin your paint for airbrushing and buy how much?
Most of the enamal and acrilic paints will take 5-6 hours to fully dry. Just a tip
I am making my interior on a Ju 87 from Revell with acrylic paint but the problem is after I wait for it to dry (like 30 minutes or 1 hour) the paint is still getting off from piece if I touch it a little bit. How can I "secure" the paint job? Any help please?
May I ask how would you compare Mr hobby putty with Tamiya.
you have good taste in music.
nice
do the humbrol products ship to the us