Hey good , day I was following ur videos on the 9bot 1e battery , I only saw 3 videos , was wondering if it went ok , because I’m attempting it my self on my 9bot 1e+ , below 50% my battery drains very fast so I want to check it out and replace a few cells
I have done one battery, which is now in a second NineBot One E+ I purchased. My homemade spot welder was lost in a Workshop fire so I bought one. The 16850 batteries are hard to get and rather expensive if you do. I do need some more for some Inmotion Hover Shoes. Still making Videos, but as always seem to be up to my ears in projects :-)
Great video! I have an E+ and sometimes when I take a ride with it, it suddenly starts vibrating and I get the fault code 37. When I've used the charger it's ok to ride again. Do you think som cells are dead and a cell change or a complete battery change will fix my problem? BR Andreas
If you open up the machine make sure the axial is secure, no lateral movement. Also ensure the control board is secure no movement. When the battery is fully charged it should be around 60V, if it is 56V or lower you have dead cells within your pack and its not safe to ride.
@@Roskellan Thank you so much for your answer! I found out that code 37 means that the battery is totally empty. But it can happen when battery is at about 50% and the other day it happened when it was at 100% and after about 200 meters... Strange. But I will see how many volts it has when fully loaded. Thank you again! 🙂
I guarantee you could do this for a living if you do it good get on the market.Just see how hard it is to find one of these batteries for less than $300 to $400 dollars plus
Hey 2 question I moved from Singapore to Germany and had to remove the battery now I reinstalled doesn’t turn on. Is it save to charge? And what about drone lipo packs could I use a bunch of 4s 1500 or higher and use it as pack and charge later separately using a istd charger?
The wheel does not turn on? Remove the battery again and check there is voltage across the battery motor connector with a multi-meter. It should be somewhere between 45 and 60V, if it's not you may have lost some cells. If a cell has failed they often go short circuit, taking out a pair, the pack is not usable like this. The pack is configured 15S 2P a cell failure (S/C ) does away with a pair, and the battery voltage drops 3.5-4.0 volts. If a pair of cells goes O/C (one cell failure leading to the other), then you will read nothing on the battery motor connector. A failure of the BMS can cause similar problems, but that is unlikely the cause if you have just disconnected/ connected the battery. Alternative batteries are possible but they must be 15S (x15 cells in series) and 2P (arranged in pairs), and with a suitable BMS. I have charged a battery via the charge lead using a constant current PSU. I can see exactly the current and the voltage at any time in the process. This can help to identify a problem, but obviously cannot fix anything except perhaps, for a battery that has gone below that which the standard charger is willing to supply. If the wheel will not switch on , yes of course I would try to charge it, the charge light should go from green to red. After 30mins or so the wheel should then switch on , if not then yes a problem I think with the battery pack.
@@Roskellan Thanks, great news ....so I can replace the cells with 3500mAh 18650 cells (the maximum possible on 18650) and have a good increase in km with a battery of the same size :-)
@vincenzo caruso u have to be aware at discharge rate of these cells also, or u will get a suddenly sutdown and u will not be happy if this happens at a 15-20 km/h speed.
My first EUC was a ninebot one . Now I'm going on number 8 unicycle. ✌️ Keep it WHEEL ✌️
Hey good , day I was following ur videos on the 9bot 1e battery , I only saw 3 videos , was wondering if it went ok , because I’m attempting it my self on my 9bot 1e+ , below 50% my battery drains very fast so I want to check it out and replace a few cells
I have done one battery, which is now in a second NineBot One E+ I purchased. My homemade spot welder was lost in a Workshop fire so I bought one. The 16850 batteries are hard to get and rather expensive if you do. I do need some more for some Inmotion Hover Shoes. Still making Videos, but as always seem to be up to my ears in projects :-)
Hello. Congratulations for the video.
Great video!
I have an E+ and sometimes when I take a ride with it, it suddenly starts vibrating and I get the fault code 37. When I've used the charger it's ok to ride again.
Do you think som cells are dead and a cell change or a complete battery change will fix my problem?
BR Andreas
If you open up the machine make sure the axial is secure, no lateral movement. Also ensure the control board is secure no movement. When the battery is fully charged it should be around 60V, if it is 56V or lower you have dead cells within your pack and its not safe to ride.
@@Roskellan Thank you so much for your answer!
I found out that code 37 means that the battery is totally empty. But it can happen when battery is at about 50% and the other day it happened when it was at 100% and after about 200 meters... Strange.
But I will see how many volts it has when fully loaded. Thank you again! 🙂
@@andreasandree8920Did you solve the problem?
I guarantee you could do this for a living if you do it good get on the market.Just see how hard it is to find one of these batteries for less than $300 to $400 dollars plus
Hey 2 question I moved from Singapore to Germany and had to remove the battery now I reinstalled doesn’t turn on. Is it save to charge? And what about drone lipo packs could I use a bunch of 4s 1500 or higher and use it as pack and charge later separately using a istd charger?
The wheel does not turn on? Remove the battery again and check there is voltage across the battery motor connector with a multi-meter. It should be somewhere between 45 and 60V, if it's not you may have lost some cells. If a cell has failed they often go short circuit, taking out a pair, the pack is not usable like this. The pack is configured 15S 2P a cell failure (S/C ) does away with a pair, and the battery voltage drops 3.5-4.0 volts. If a pair of cells goes O/C (one cell failure leading to the other), then you will read nothing on the battery motor connector. A failure of the BMS can cause similar problems, but that is unlikely the cause if you have just disconnected/ connected the battery. Alternative batteries are possible but they must be 15S (x15 cells in series) and 2P (arranged in pairs), and with a suitable BMS. I have charged a battery via the charge lead using a constant current PSU. I can see exactly the current and the voltage at any time in the process. This can help to identify a problem, but obviously cannot fix anything except perhaps, for a battery that has gone below that which the standard charger is willing to supply. If the wheel will not switch on , yes of course I would try to charge it, the charge light should go from green to red. After 30mins or so the wheel should then switch on , if not then yes a problem I think with the battery pack.
you can tell me how many mAh are the original cells ? thanks
Hi, the Ninebot One E+ 320W/hr Battery pack had LG 2700mAh cells.
@@Roskellan Thanks, great news ....so I can replace the cells with 3500mAh 18650 cells (the maximum possible on 18650) and have a good increase in km with a battery of the same size :-)
@vincenzo caruso u have to be aware at discharge rate of these cells also, or u will get a suddenly sutdown and u will not be happy if this happens at a 15-20 km/h speed.