How I FLOAT a SHOWER --- OLD SCHOOL Tile Shower Build 2024 Episode 3
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2024
- How I float a shower for tile using old school tile methods taught to me by union trained tile setters from the San Francisco Bay Area in the late 1990's. These methods were developed by plasterers and adapted to tiled shower surfaces in the 1920's. Fat mud mortar (sand, cement, and lime in a 5-1-1 ratio) is placed over a metal reinforcement, either stucco netting (chicken wire) or expanded galvanized lath. The mortar is then screeded off of redwood strips that are placed strategiaclly on the wall to provide a flat, plumb, square, and strong setting surface for ceramic, stone, or porcelain tiles. The finished mortar bed thickeness varies, but it usually ends up between 3/8" and 3/4".
Proponents of this installation method (TCNA B441) argue that there is no faster way to achieve a perfectly flat and true tile setting surface. Opponents of this method argue that it is too labor intensive, too messy, and out of style. They argue that newer methods can achive the same results with less effort.
For the video on the pan liner installation here is the link:
• How I do a Pan Liner -...
For the video on the shower pan dry pack mortar bed:
• How I Float a Shower P...
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You are a teacher and the best kind to be. A teacher that gets to teach only people that are really interested in what you have to say. No one is forced to be here taking a class they don't think they should be required to take.
I just finished a dry pack shower floor the first one I’ve done in many years my boss loves schluter pans and I think they suck and the only reason he let me do a dry pack is because I shower is 4x8 and he couldn’t find one 😅 hopefully now he will let me do a lot more because the cost was a lot cheaper I mixed it the old way with sand and Portland he was aware it could be done for that fast and cheap it probably took about one and a half hours he was alittle impressed and that was the first in quite a while . Thanks for the videos I’ve learned a lot by watching them. Have a good day my friend
Why do you think Schluter sucks?
@@jwd215 it’s just my personal opinion you may like it and a lot may like it but I think it’s one of the worst product on the market for water proofing, laticrete makes a waterproof product much stronger and easier to apply and that’s just one I even like Go board better than schluter system in my opinion because it was maybe the first they didn’t improve it they left it be the schluter board has what looks to be a paper product for the water proofing it’s just not something I like now again my boss likes it but ever shower I do with schluter I tell him again and again that if it fails I want touch it, but any product I recommend I will stand behind .
Ok. I love Go Board. I've been installing wet bed for 15 years. Just install my 1st schulter pan a few weeks ago. I thought you may have experienced failure, that's why I asked.
Skills pay the bills!
A true tradesman, outstanding skills !
Thank you for your videos.
I can't add a picture or video but I just built a walk in shower with 24"×48" tiles after watching a bunch of your videos. And it came out extremely nice. I used an Oyx 60"×42" base and also their corner seat.
Now I'm watching shower door videos for big walk ins. Keep up the good work.
Your vids have helped me so much, Isaac. You're a great teacher, just not in a classroom.
i love being a mason because i get to see others share that same passion.
Great video Isaac! Love to see mud work.
Love it. Old school. A real tile setter should know how to do this. I think a lot of guys are just lazy with some of the new products out there.
Lazy? Why would you want to not use the better and newer techniques? Did you build your house out of stick and mud? If not, by your logic you're lazy.
Very good video, old fashion, I like it!!!
Marshalltown trowels are definitely the best, especially their margin trowels, couldnt imagine doing a job without it.
I always make my niche oversized and add foam board or more thinset to get the final dimensions. There is so much going on it’s very easy to have a brain fart and have the niche the wrong size or wrong position. Even a 1/8inch mistake is too much of a mistake sometimes. I find it easier to make the niche oversized. Cheers !
I’m the same way my friend I found out the hard way several times that means I’m a slow learner 😅 but now I make mine over size and fill it.
Isaac, the capillary gap is a great idea. But the weight of the walls is only supported by staples.
A couple of ways to overcome this structural weakness:
Use nails as is if stucco job.
Instead of foam/sealant, use strips of hard poly (similar to material uses for cutting boards). Waterproof and transfers load to your pan.
What saves this build is the bottom row of tiles ends up supporting the walls. That DalTile Hydro is strong, but would worry if someone did this same method w/Chloe, for example.
lol, the best way would be to only put the gap around the curb!
He did a tearout on his own shower build that had stapled tar paper behind the mortar and the whole wall just fell off in one piece. At least this one has drywall, which the mortar will happily stick to.
The stapling is fine because all 3 walls become a monolith. (If the house burns down, those walls will be standing even without the wallboard behind them.) The problem here is they are just hovering over the pan. But like I said, the bottom row of tiles rest on the pan and probably are enough to support the load.
In the end, capillary gap is a great idea but only needs to be around the curb.
I was thinking of the same. Maybe sink screws into the studs every 8" or so, angled upwards, so the load on the screws will be less shear and more tension. Leave the screws protruding ~3/8", so they will hold the mortar layer as if it were a sheet of cement-board.
I understand the concern about putting fasteners through the interior curb face and top. Starr Tile does use fasteners through cement board at the curb but does seal them up with thinset and waterproof membrane without issues. If done correctly his system works just as yours does. You are both right. On my curb, I actually use fasteners but I don't bury them right away into the cement board. II start the fasteners and then pull off the cement board and then silicone where he fasteners go. Then I install fasteners, cement board, thinset the entire curb fasteners and the curb, then waterproof with whatever waterproof membrane is available. It works.
Thanks
I appreciate the method used to create this shower........ I'm not a fan of those niche's. I prefer one corner shelf in the same color as the tile........ NOT so easy with custom tile I understand. 😳 Excellent job all around........ THX FOR POSTING
You definitely need a helper when floating a wall to make the mix.
How everyone floats a shower. Fresh set 41/4. 30, 60, 90 inches are 7,14,21 tiles. A4402 to A106 trim. An A8262 for cap. AC to AN trim. Pomona tile to Florida and American Olean. Nice videos!
Amazing work as always. I was wondering, how do you determine the 90 degree angle between the back wall and the side walls by using those strips? In Europe they use laser level for metal strips. Thank you
This seems like a lot of work for minimal gain. Could whomever set the backerboard not furr out the walls level and plumb?
they probably thought "that's the next guy's problem..."
They can try but a drywall guys idea of level is not usually good enough for tile install.
🔥
TC are you coming to Coverings? I live in Atl and thought to shake hands. 👀
Very cool but what is used to waterproof it or does it even need waterproofing?
Hi Isaac, what is the purpose of float the mortar for the shower walls ? I have watched many of your videos: they are well done & super job!! Many thanks.
How long for the entire prep? Pan liner, preslope, final slope, curb, Hanging wallboard, treating the seams, hanging metal lath and floating walls?
were you using pencil liners around niche? just looked like a gap around, not full tile like you said. anyways are your mud walls done when only specified by contractor , done if clients ask, done on all jobs, only on jobs where the studs are super bad, etc? just curious on the selling aspect because i know the walls can be just as flat using non mudding methods, so just curious when or why you do them?
2006 called and asked back for the DensShield, weep drain and rubber sheet membrane.
Good prep method back then. If you can overcome the folds in the corners. And if the drain didn't clog down the road.
How are those kerdie line drains and curns holding up? You really think felt on their wall foam panels are going to hold up over the next 60 years?
What is the simplest, most idiotproof-waterproof shower a novice can install that will last decades? I saw your Redi Tile video and like that product. What would you advise?
The best method would be to only put the capillary gap around the curb. The problem here is the super heavy wall structure should be resting directly on the pan. Instead it’s hovering an inch above the pan. Clinging to wire and staples.
… so like. This is very close to how four story buildings are stuccoed and they are not resting their stucco walls on the foundation, that would be really silly. There is a reason you use calk in the corners and not grout.
How you pass inspection without nailing off the wire?
What is the mix your using
Hmm. Dont use 2x4s ever in a curb. Boom problem solved.
Coach, How do you waterproof these mud walls?
The face of the Denshield backer board is waterproof
Nice. As always great work. I miss the stucco method. So pleasing to get that absolutely perfect wall surface. Question. Any thoughts on using galvanized nails over lath (on stud center) for added rigidity? Could prevent wall buckling and separation of wall mortar from DensShield. I have done a couple dozen estimates up here in NorthCal where exactly that is happening on an otherwise perfect install. Shame is that there is no easy way to repair it, you usually have to rip everything out and start over. Seems like such a waste because of a small thing like adding a few nails. It is a code in SoCal. Not sure why it is not code up here in NorthCal. Wondering what anyones thoughts are on this. Has anyone had callbacks due to the mesh separating from the wall with only staples?
I was thought in Socal in the early 2000s just using staples and a good amount over lath..But over time I have noticed adding a few galvi nails for added assurance gave me that piece of mind..Plus there are some inspectors looking for nails 8" apart.
@@felicianoalvarado7548 Interesting during my time in SoCal every single inspected demanded 8'' galvinised nails on stud. I manly worked high-end new construction, multi million dollar SF residential. Could be unique to that niche build types. Also we did use scratch coat on diamond lath, not drywall with chicken wire mesh. Bit different.
@RafaelTileWorks yes same here, in early 2000s I was working in the La Canada area new construction as well..one coat float over green board..I don't think that's allowed anymore at least in Socal..and yes now inspectors demand 8" spacing with galvi nails
@@felicianoalvarado7548 Makes sense. I must have demoed a few dozen cracked tile walls. All due to float cracking and buckling away from the wall over time. It is amazing what a huge difference a few nails can make in just a few sq ft of wall tile.
Wy are you floating the walls the ware al ready even and strait?
Because drywallers never Install their board or in this case the Denshield plumb..If you care about your cuts and glass going in, you must have plumb walls
I cant believe you didnt put aqua bar or some kind of vapor barrier behind your float, and that you didnt even use green board.
I cant believe you think green board is a better option over densshield lol.
Won’t it always be wet in the mortar below the tile??? U would have wait months between showers for any sort drying to be taking place!
No.
Hmmmm
Back in the day, when concrete walls were common, the stucco contractor would be asked to float the shower walls.
The work was crude. Good enough for an exterior stucco wall, not good enough for nice tile work.
Is that an OSHA approved step stool? HA HA
Lead pan or no pan 😂
I don't understand why you coat the whole surface of Densshield. It is completely waterproof and you are covering it with something that is not while puncturing the waterproof surface with a thousand staples. I know, old school yada,yada...
It is a leveling technique mostly. You need perfect, plum, square walls for the tile.
Full tile at bottom. But not at top. Hacky
If i was there I dont need to do tile in the floor and with wood and mark evrything in 2024 you have tape measure you dont need mark in the wood😂😂👎👎
4 days still not starting to set the tile omggg man 4 days i did 1.900SQF 😂😂😂
Dang another troll 😂 keep using your tape for those small tiles and setting 1.9 sq ft in 4 days 🤣