Thank you!!!!! I just got a really nice vintage craftsman USA made micrometer off eBay for 20 bucks. I hope to get it set up perfectly thanks to this video😊
I know nothing about micrometers, so v. Interesting. I need to buy one for my motorcycle renovation, so are there any buying guides? Haven't found any yet. Btw, what's the other end of the wrench for?
You really can't go wrong with one of the major brands, Mitutoyo, Starrett, or Brown and Sharpe. If you just need it for this one job and don't plan on using it a ton, Fowler and SPI are decent choices. If you want digital on the cheap, I've heard good things about the Aventor line from shars.com, although I have no personal experience with them. I'd steer clear of the no-name chinese ones. They can be mind-numbingly bad. If you haven't watched my video on reading mics, check it out at ua-cam.com/video/j0ARvWwMZX8/v-deo.html It goes into both inch and metric mics so it should cover whichever you decide to buy. The other end of the wrench is for a spanner nut on the inside of the thimble that adjusts the tension on the screw. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart, I had sort of decided on a metric (Jap bike) Mitutoyo before i saw your videos, but needed some pointers just to confirm i was on the right course. I will be buying used, as they seem quite expensive, or perhaps i'm just tight! I did think those chinese one's looked too cheap to be any use but i can see how they would be tempting if you're on a budget. Thanks again!
Used is usually a good path. Plenty on machinists sell off the tools they don't use very much. Of course, you run the risk of getting a clapped out piece of junk too. I checked MSC and they're selling a 0-25mm SPI mic for $73, and Fowler on Amazon for $35. The Fowler mics aren't too bad for the price. They're Chinese, but better than most of that ilk.
@@StuartdeHaro Oh well, i've bought one now! A Mitutoyo 0-25mm off ebay. It looks pretty clean in original case with wrench and instruction booklet. Looks like a one man engineering business and he said it had little use. Just keep my fingers crossed that it lives up to the description. Btw i'm in the UK, i've not seen any of the other brands you mentioned over here, except Starret. Here it seems to be mostly Wright+Moore, Draper, Sealy and Nielsen. Wright+Moore i think are a british company but not sure about the others, european? Thanks again for the info. Stuart, much appreciated!
Possibly. It could be gummed up from old oil, or it could be a little corrosion. Take it apart and inspect for any damage first, like a bent spindle or frame. If nothing jumps out at you, clean the threads with some denatured alcohol and put a little bit of light oil on it and see if that helps. Let me know how it turns out.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks! Looks pretty shiny and well cared for but internal threads are dirty so will try that. Mine is a Moore & Wright, made in Sheffield, England. Superb craftsmanship.
I'm not really sure. I got the set at an auction. Judging from the box and the state of the magic disintegrating foam inside, I'd say late 80's or early 90's?
dans-hobbies Thimbles can vary by three or four sizes these days. They are usually down to the torque setting (depending on manufacturers) and smoothness of the thimbles movement ~ ratchet (clicking) or smooth rotation feeling. Again, you can get different micrometers to suit the material you are checking ~ low torque for plastics and Ali etc etc.
Great question! First, check the anvils for damage to make sure that isn't the problem. If not, the thimble is usually held on by a taper and can be popped off and repositioned close enough to zero to adjust. It's a bit hard to explain with words, but there should be a cap of some kind on the end holding the thimble onto the spindle. This is usually where your ratchet spindle is, or it could be a flat cap if you have a friction thimble. You will probably need the spanner wrench to remove it. Then gently separate the spindle from the thimble at the taper. Thread the spindle all the way in so the anvils are closed together, then reposition the thimble on the taper and replace the cap. Couldn't be simpler, right? Let me know if you need any clarification or extra help.
douchebagnumero1 Your computer and or smart device has a toggle on them, press the lower button to achieve improved audio to your liking. Glad I could help.
Thanks Stuart, clear, concise, straight to the point without a lot of pre-amble. I like it!
Very informative, and to-the-point. Just what I needed to reset a vintage micrometer I acquired . Thanks!
Nice, clear and simple, thank you!
Some great tips n trix which are always simple...when you know em! You can have all the tools but you've got to have the know-how. Great little video.
Thank you!!!!! I just got a really nice vintage craftsman USA made micrometer off eBay for 20 bucks. I hope to get it set up perfectly thanks to this video😊
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I just bought my first micrometer (a really cheap one) that needed to be zero'ed, and this showed me how :)
Thank you! Very detailed and right to the point.
Good video for zero adjustment i like it. Thanks
Nice video. Unfortunately none of my mikes adjust this way, but useful info nonetheless. Love your content, keep it up.
Do they adjust using a screw head, in the outside end of of the anvil?
Thanks for that, i will check all mine tomorrow.
Thank you for the information😊
It’s a little more complicated I think and I just bought one and wondering what your take on how to work it clean it set it ect thanks
Not all micrometers have a wrench and adjusting hole.
Years ago, I had one that was adjusted via a screw slot, on the outside end of the anvil.
I actually have one like that too. It's not the best system.
Hey could you do a video on the Fowler 52-275-005 inside micrometer ?
I don't have a Fowler inside mic, but I can probably do one on the one I have. The principles would be the same. Sound good?
I know nothing about micrometers, so v. Interesting. I need to buy one for my motorcycle renovation, so are there any buying guides? Haven't found any yet. Btw, what's the other end of the wrench for?
You really can't go wrong with one of the major brands, Mitutoyo, Starrett, or Brown and Sharpe. If you just need it for this one job and don't plan on using it a ton, Fowler and SPI are decent choices. If you want digital on the cheap, I've heard good things about the Aventor line from shars.com, although I have no personal experience with them. I'd steer clear of the no-name chinese ones. They can be mind-numbingly bad. If you haven't watched my video on reading mics, check it out at ua-cam.com/video/j0ARvWwMZX8/v-deo.html It goes into both inch and metric mics so it should cover whichever you decide to buy. The other end of the wrench is for a spanner nut on the inside of the thimble that adjusts the tension on the screw. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart, I had sort of decided on a metric (Jap bike) Mitutoyo before i saw your videos, but needed some pointers just to confirm i was on the right course. I will be buying used, as they seem quite expensive, or perhaps i'm just tight! I did think those chinese one's looked too cheap to be any use but i can see how they would be tempting if you're on a budget. Thanks again!
Used is usually a good path. Plenty on machinists sell off the tools they don't use very much. Of course, you run the risk of getting a clapped out piece of junk too. I checked MSC and they're selling a 0-25mm SPI mic for $73, and Fowler on Amazon for $35. The Fowler mics aren't too bad for the price. They're Chinese, but better than most of that ilk.
@@StuartdeHaro Oh well, i've bought one now! A Mitutoyo 0-25mm off ebay. It looks pretty clean in original case with wrench and instruction booklet. Looks like a one man engineering business and he said it had little use. Just keep my fingers crossed that it lives up to the description. Btw i'm in the UK, i've not seen any of the other brands you mentioned over here, except Starret. Here it seems to be mostly Wright+Moore, Draper, Sealy and Nielsen. Wright+Moore i think are a british company but not sure about the others, european? Thanks again for the info. Stuart, much appreciated!
My one is too tight and ratchet kicks in straight away. Does oil on threads solve this?
Possibly. It could be gummed up from old oil, or it could be a little corrosion. Take it apart and inspect for any damage first, like a bent spindle or frame. If nothing jumps out at you, clean the threads with some denatured alcohol and put a little bit of light oil on it and see if that helps. Let me know how it turns out.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks! Looks pretty shiny and well cared for but internal threads are dirty so will try that. Mine is a Moore & Wright, made in Sheffield, England. Superb craftsmanship.
What vintage is that mic? All the new ones i've seen have the little thimbles.
I'm not really sure. I got the set at an auction. Judging from the box and the state of the magic disintegrating foam inside, I'd say late 80's or early 90's?
dans-hobbies Thimbles can vary by three or four sizes these days. They are usually down to the torque setting (depending on manufacturers) and smoothness of the thimbles movement ~ ratchet (clicking) or smooth rotation feeling.
Again, you can get different micrometers to suit the material you are checking ~ low torque for plastics and Ali etc etc.
What if it's .010 off
Great question! First, check the anvils for damage to make sure that isn't the problem. If not, the thimble is usually held on by a taper and can be popped off and repositioned close enough to zero to adjust. It's a bit hard to explain with words, but there should be a cap of some kind on the end holding the thimble onto the spindle. This is usually where your ratchet spindle is, or it could be a flat cap if you have a friction thimble. You will probably need the spanner wrench to remove it. Then gently separate the spindle from the thimble at the taper. Thread the spindle all the way in so the anvils are closed together, then reposition the thimble on the taper and replace the cap. Couldn't be simpler, right? Let me know if you need any clarification or extra help.
please apply a low pass filter or try standing further away from your mic. the audio is very uncomfortable to listen to.
douchebagnumero1
Your computer and or smart device has a toggle on them, press the lower button to achieve improved audio to your liking. Glad I could help.