Thank You Very Much for posting this video. Randall, you do great work sir! I've been looking for a video like this - learned a lot. Couldn't afford the $400 kit they sell online, but a couple of paint brushes, a small can of stain, and a couple or rattle cans is a worthwhile investment.
I just did all the garnish moldings, door frames and the dash on my 1931 Model A Ford Victoria. It came out great! So happy that you posted this video.
Great video that's the same technique I used years ago I switch to Zar wood stain as it dries faster . You can customize the color of your stain by adding in a small amount of artist oil color such as dark Sienna or burnt umber. Adding about 1 tablespoon of Japan drier to each pint of stain will make it dry quicker you can get these things at a local Art Supply
Thanks for sharing, YOUR video is giving me the confidence to not only tackle this on my 1927 Buick dash and window trim but also the galley cabinetry on our boat too!!! Very well done, you should be proud if your work!!!
I am so sorry I have neglected replying to comments on this video!! I am glad if you found it helpful. If you still have any questions, just comment here and I PROMISE a response!!
I agree with other commentators here, great video. A couple of questions for you though.; 1. Did you wet sand between clear coat applications, and if so, what grit did you use? 2. Have you tried this same technique on body panels? Thanks again for this great video. 👏👏👏
Randell Rice, Thank you sooo much for this amazing blessing inspiring video. I am sooo excited to try this wood graining technique on my 1950 Plymouth Deluxe 2dr project I am working on restoring. *Quick question- In your video at 6min 12sec to 6min 13'ish seconds... How exactly do you mean you will have to sand in between each clear coat of clear. What grit of sandpaper do you use ect?
My stain ended up separating from my base coat rustoleum. Maybe because it was water base? Home depot didn't have minwax, I went to lowes and they had it but it was super thin stain.
Sorry for my delayed reply. I use Rustoleum clear gloss, either the regular or 2X. I do recommend that you do a test spot first just to make sure things don't go bad. I have had situations where the clear started to look bad, so I had to sand it down and start again. Sometimes, I can use very light steel wool and not have to redo the woodgrain. It just depends on the situation.
@@randallrice8727 thank you for any advice you can give me..i do plan to do the dash and trim..are those stains oil based or something..any further info would be greatly appreciated
Amazing video. For those of us that do not have the resources, we appreciate videos like yours. Thank you
Thanks for the thanks!
Thank You Very Much for posting this video. Randall, you do great work sir! I've been looking for a video like this - learned a lot. Couldn't afford the $400 kit they sell online, but a couple of paint brushes, a small can of stain, and a couple or rattle cans is a worthwhile investment.
Hi Hal, Thanks for the encouraging words. I was in the same situation!!
What an awesome video Randall. I have a 48 Special Deluxe coupe and I can't wait to try it on my own! Thanks again!
Thanks much!
I just did all the garnish moldings, door frames and the dash on my 1931 Model A Ford Victoria. It came out great! So happy that you posted this video.
Great video that's the same technique I used years ago I switch to Zar wood stain as it dries faster . You can customize the color of your stain by adding in a small amount of artist oil color such as dark Sienna or burnt umber. Adding about 1 tablespoon of Japan drier to each pint of stain will make it dry quicker you can get these things at a local Art Supply
This is awesome. I have a 49 Special Deluxe that I am doing. I will definitely Be trying this.
Awesome video Randy. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Thanks, Patrick!
Thanks for sharing, YOUR video is giving me the confidence to not only tackle this on my 1927 Buick dash and window trim but also the galley cabinetry on our boat too!!! Very well done, you should be proud if your work!!!
Thank you for your video! i am going to do this to my windshield molding and my door moldings on my 53 Desoto.
Hi Mark, thanks for the thanks! I wish you all the best. Feel free to comment back with any questions.
Soooo nice.. I’m definitely going to do it myself on my ‘47 Fleetline
Thanks for Post, you made it look so easy, I'm trying it on my 47 chevy
I am so sorry I have neglected replying to comments on this video!! I am glad if you found it helpful. If you still have any questions, just comment here and I PROMISE a response!!
Looks great
Thank you!
I think I will take this route
Beautiful finish, thank you for this! I will be following your technique on my vehicle reno'. Big thanks from Australia :)
I agree with other commentators here, great video. A couple of questions for you though.;
1. Did you wet sand between clear coat applications, and if so, what grit did you use?
2. Have you tried this same technique on body panels?
Thanks again for this great video. 👏👏👏
Great how to video!
Thank you so much. Going to try on my 1935 Dodge. Great video!
Great alternative for straight grain jobs
looks great
Great Video Randy, What was your sanding procedure between coats of clear? Wet sand? What grit? Thanks.
Amazing good sir thank you
Thanx for sharing ill have to try that!
What clear coat product do you suggest?
Would you have a video continuing the process?
Randell Rice, Thank you sooo much for this amazing blessing inspiring video. I am sooo excited to try this wood graining technique on my 1950 Plymouth Deluxe 2dr project I am working on restoring.
*Quick question- In your video at 6min 12sec to 6min 13'ish seconds... How exactly do you mean you will have to sand in between each clear coat of clear. What grit of sandpaper do you use ect?
My stain ended up separating from my base coat rustoleum. Maybe because it was water base? Home depot didn't have minwax, I went to lowes and they had it but it was super thin stain.
What clear coat did you use..I appreciate you showing how its done..I myself want to do that with my 53 chevy truck..
Sorry for my delayed reply. I use Rustoleum clear gloss, either the regular or 2X. I do recommend that you do a test spot first just to make sure things don't go bad. I have had situations where the clear started to look bad, so I had to sand it down and start again. Sometimes, I can use very light steel wool and not have to redo the woodgrain. It just depends on the situation.
@@randallrice8727 thank you for any advice you can give me..i do plan to do the dash and trim..are those stains oil based or something..any further info would be greatly appreciated
Fabulous video! Do you recommend a wiping or gel stain for the second step?
Please post a video of your dashboard when you can.
Please post a video of your dashboard.
Btw which stain color did you use? Could you share a picture of the front of the stain can?
Minwax red mahogany @1:45
What type of clear did you use
What did you use for clear coat, mine ended up with a crackle finish, why?