I got this for Fathers day 4 batches of beer later it is still my favorite. For me everything is working .I like the wall mounts, keeps everything out of the way. What you will need with this: 3/8 in bottle filler and a piece of 3/8 hose, temp gauge,and the best add-on you can get is the mason jar adapter. I think my wife is getting me another for Christmas. Yeah !!!
I purchased a 14 gallon FastFermenter online that was delivered on December 7-2018. I did the assembly following instructions, watching video above, and checking the FAQ on leaking above the valve screwed onto the threaded cone. I used all the remaining supplied thread tape, and then bought another 1/2" x 480" or (40 feet!) of P.T.F.E threaded seal tape, adding more and more, as I tested for leaks many more times, and it still had a slow leak after using all that tape!! I emailed info@FastBrewing.com and I received a quick reply back with advice and support. I was advised the 14 gallon conical, and valve needs to be turned together as far as you can tighten it. I turned the valve another six times (360 degrees) resulting in no further leak! I plan on brewing a batch of beer with it between Christmas and New Years, and will update on how things go. Thank you, Customer Service for your advice and support!! - Ken. Ontario, Canada
Like most folks, I struggled to get a decent seal with the white tape, especially on the lid. Super simple fix: Switched to using gas-rated plumber's tape (yellow or pink). Sealed up with only a couple layers, including the lid. Never had another problem with liquid or CO2 escaping. Yellow tape costs slightly more than white, but you actually use less of it, so it ends up being cheaper.
@@sheaskateboarding So I use my FF all the time. I put about 5-6 wraps on it the first time. Every time after that I add one more wrap just to replace whatever's worn off. A few times I've stripped it clean and started fresh. Never had it leak, never had a problem. The yellow, or now grey, tape costs maybe a dollar more than the standard white but works a hundred times better.
Mine went together well and did not leak. After the first year I decided to redo the Teflon tape on the male threads at the bottom of the conical where ball valve assembly screws onto it. 10 wraps and it was leaking very little,, took all night to see water at the top of the ball valve assembly. So I wrapped it again, dropped an O-ring onto the lip of the ball valve assembly where the very end of the conical would meet there, then painted the conical male threads with beeswax that I melted in a water bath with a pan. Wrapped 2 more layers over the wax, screwed it on tight and, It stopped leaking
Honestly, The design of the fast ferment needs to be changed! Just got a second one from your company due to the first leaking. This one I was sent leaks like crazy as well. I have followed the directions to the letter to no avail! Save your money people and buy a real fermenter!
I was just in the process of purchasing the fast ferment here in the UK, unfortunately my only option is to purchase it from Amazon UK! But after I added up the cost of all the extra components I require it comes out at £236.00!!! At first I believed this would be a cheaper option for me, until I came across many stainless steel conical fermenter's for far less money!
I have owned fast ferment for about 1 year. I have yet to get top lid to seal. Have spent time to fine sand lid seal area etc. Have pitched yeast twice per batch in panic mode of something going wrong. The quality of this mold reminds me a lot of cheap offshore products we all so often see as consumers. Little extra work with carboys. Save your 100$!!!
Hi Vertical flight, did you happen to email our customer service at info@fastbrewing.com to get a new lid and gasket out to you? Please let us know if you are continuing to have a leak.
Use gas rated plumber's tape rather than the white stuff. 3 wraps with yellow or pink plumber's tape and it seals up just fine. Also, I lubed the o-ring with silicone grease so that it doesn't snag and wrinkle on the plastic lip. Those two tricks and it worked rock solid.
@@user-hb2xx3gs3f If its the one I think you're talking about, it goes between the ball valve adapter and the ball valve housing. Should be a seat at the bottom of the ball valve housing for the ring to go into, then when you thread the adapter part on, it seals against that. The only other thing I know that is black was the old-style foam gasket for the lid, but that has been replaced with a silicon gasket.
Do yourself a favour and get yourself a roll of yellow teflon tape (it's rated for gas pipes). It's thicker and works 100x better than the basic white plumber's tape that is included. A roll at Lowe's only costs about $3 and it will save you a huge headache. After using this stuff on all the threads, I didn't have a single leak anywhere.
Fast fermenter is awesome! But, I want to know if I can use it in a room with fluorescent lights or I need to cover my fermenter with the insulated jacket. Thanks.
I wish I had read the comments on this video before buying. My white rubbers came bruised. Got replacements after a month wait but the top now seems to also leak. I guess I ll keep adding tape...
@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 I really appreciate you getting back to me. I got my fastferment complete watertight by adding loads of teflon tape. However today when I wanted to close the valve to take out the trub from secondary that worked, but I couldnt open it anymore. It was so stuck. The only way to open the valve was to loosen the grey bolt. But that caused the setup to leak. In the end I had to transfer the whole thing to two fermenter buckets. It just kept leaking, if it wasnt the valve, it was the collector, if it wasnt the collector it was the bucket/valve connection. Is mine just a lemon? Am I doing it wrong or?
Hi Ruben S, most people forget that the valve needs to be adjusted when it comes with the kit. We provide a sheet that tells you how the red handle works as a wrench to adjust the valve. If you continue to have trouble, email us with the pictures of the conical and valve, and we can definitely see if we can send you the items that need to be replaced. The email address is info@fastbrewing.com Looking forward to hearing from you!
@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 I have used that red tool to replace the two rubbers that were broken as mentioned before. That part was easy. The valve is super smooth when not under pressure but if screwed tight and under pressure it gets stuck. This is no fun with 50l of beer hanging over your living room floor. What do you mean "forget?" - where in this video is the step I "forgot?" Can you link to some documentation or a time on this video? I came here just to complain, but I really dont want to be just a toxic customer and I will accept a real solution, but so far my experience has been bad. If you point me to what I forgot and it seems obvious, I will be the first to apologise here.
Hi Ruben S, Our User Manual for the 7.9G has the instructions on Page 28 and our 14G Manual has it on page 25. We also have a FAQ section imbedded within our website at www.Fastbrewing.com that relates to this issue. We really do appreciate all the feedback and also giving us the opportunity to fix all issues. We definitely do not want you to be dissatisfied with the product. You are more than welcome to contact our customer service department anytime at info@fastbrewing.com or through our toll free number at 1-800-549-5763 to speak to someone. We look forward to hearing from you. If you are having a continued issue with your valve, then we will be more than happy to replace the valve for you. The FastBrewing Team
You don’t show Teflon on the lid - do you just rely on the gasket? And, just got this and I can’t get the lid to actually catch the threads with the gasket installed - if I pull the gasket out I can get it to catch and tighten
My 14G failed its leak test over 7 times and didn’t matter how many times I applied more Teflon. I tried my own method of first applying vertical Teflon in the seams on both sides where there was obvious water leaking and it finally passed the leak test. So I started a wine batch just like the video told me to only to find out the valve leaks terribly. I’ve completely wasted over $150 kit because the valve they sent leaks. And now I’ve discovered that stopping this valve from leaking doesn’t even match the advice given in the “cleaning” video. The video clearly states the “oring” needs to be flush when this couldn’t be further from the truth. The “oring” on mine needs to adjust 2-3mm higher for it not to leak. It’s a very fine adjustment to achieve this and the video is not helpful or accurate at all. I’ve called them multiple times and NEVER had them answer my call or return a message. Every video the have states that you can call them for help but they NEVER answer or call back.
Hello - Can or has the Lid press out area's to fit push on pressure fitting to enable Co2 injection - pressure gauge monitoring - wort pressure transfer ...joe
I presume that tape is plumbers PTFE. If you buy gas grade it is 10x thicker, so 10x less turns required. But I'll not be buying one till reports of the QC improve. Also, stirring up your start mix through that wee lid?
Just got my 14G built, and... can't stop it from leaking. Came to the video hoping maybe I'd missed something, but the solution here is just "keep adding more tape til the leak stops". Kinda disappointed in the quality of the product, tbh. Guess I'll just go add more tape...
Hi Wolfger, The 14G needs to be tightened higher than normal for the leak to stop. If you continue to run into trouble, please email us at info@fastbrewing.com to get the assistance you need.
I have problems with leaks on the valve: when I open it to my collection ball, the connection starts to leak.. I put a lot of tape but it stills leaking.. any suggestions? I also changed the O-ring
I have the 3 gallon sized one. Please guys make sure to put plumbers tape on the top lid because if not it won't seal. I think this guy failed to mention the most important part of the whole process.
Why is the valve installed in the reverse of the way, of the manufacture suggested way, the valve clearly has a direction of flow arrow on it, Do they not make one that is made with opposite flow? I have noticed that some brewers are seeming to have clogging issues, that may be avoided if flow direction was reversed, ( they may not also ), but the manufactures have the arrow on there for a reason..
I just purchase one from my LHBS and the gasket for the lid is not like the one in the video. I got a cheap white foam looking gasket. How do I get the silicone one?
I have three (3) 14 Gallon units. Just put them together. I had to buy some extra Teflon tape. Re-install and more tape three times each and the connection to the fermenter still leaks. Each time is more difficult to attach the valve. I just left them full with water tonight and will measure how much water is leaking. I might just cut my losses if it is just a few milliliters a week.
The unit leaked over the weekend. Repeated the process in one if them yesterday and it ia still leaking. I will suggest to redesign the unit with a ferrule connection
Hi @@thesangriashop1177 , We recommend screwing the valves as high as it would go on the conical so the leak stops. Most people screw the valve just enough not realizing that it has to be screwed higher on the 14G.
Hi @@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 Thanks for the reply. I have been tightening until all threads are inside. I tried again today and have them as tight as I my friend and I could- again a few threads inside. The main problem is that the threads from the CPVC (gray) are not 100% match to the tank. A tri-clover connection will work better, no leaks and no over torque. You can see that the pats of the valve do not leak and you have to get them just hand tight and an extra 1/4 turn.
This thing leaks like a sieve, when you take the ball off the ball valve leaks. there are pockets all over the place that collect trub (thermowell, valve...) the forming of the plastic has lots of burrs and generally after the first brew you're fire fighting bad design. The valve sticks and when you try to release the handle snaps off.....etc. Great idea on the face of it but thrown out too soon without testing and the public pick up the development costs. I ended up buying a Fermzilla and it blows this away. Even the attempt to cover it is half baked.
Hi Phil, You need to adjust the valve using the method below to ensure that the red handle does not snap off. Also, this ensures that you do not get leaks where the vessel meets the conical. The link attached should assist you with the leak. fastbrewing.com/products/fastferment/frequently-asked-questions#faq-42
I've yet to use mine. I do have one question though. After I'm done, and I've sterilized everything for the next use, then I will have to retape and water test every single time correct? It just seems like the time it takes to transfer to a secondary is less than going through this process of taping and checking for leaks constantly.
Hi Indian Head Jerry, We recommend the above procedure to prevent cross contamination between batches. The leak test would be recommended so that you do not have an on going leak.
This thing is complete garbage. Nothing is tight fitting with the threads at all. U can wiggle the carboy and valve connection almost all the way tight with significant play. U can even bottom the threads out with almost a full roll of Teflon tape. But to make matters worse. Who ever welds the two half’s together in the factory must of been sleeping when he made mine and from what I can gather others have the same issues with the seam. I have two separate leaks in the seam. I’m glad I noticed, but if the welds are that poor how many people must have nice batch’s of red wine all over their floors when this thing decides to let go. Great concept. Crap design.
I got this for Fathers day 4 batches of beer later it is still my favorite.
For me everything is working .I like the wall mounts, keeps everything out of the way.
What you will need with this:
3/8 in bottle filler and a piece of 3/8 hose, temp gauge,and the best add-on you can get is the mason jar adapter. I think my wife is getting me another for Christmas. Yeah !!!
I purchased a 14 gallon FastFermenter online that was delivered on December 7-2018. I did the assembly following instructions, watching video above, and checking the FAQ on leaking above the valve screwed onto the threaded cone. I used all the remaining supplied thread tape, and then bought another 1/2" x 480" or (40 feet!) of P.T.F.E threaded seal tape, adding more and more, as I tested for leaks many more times, and it still had a slow leak after using all that tape!!
I emailed info@FastBrewing.com and I received a quick reply back with advice and support. I was advised the 14 gallon conical, and valve needs to be turned together as far as you can tighten it. I turned the valve another six times (360 degrees) resulting in no further leak!
I plan on brewing a batch of beer with it between Christmas and New Years, and will update on how things go. Thank you, Customer Service for your advice and support!!
- Ken. Ontario, Canada
Hi Ken, We are happy to hear that you no longer have a leak. Keep us posted with your results.
Did it ever work out?
Like most folks, I struggled to get a decent seal with the white tape, especially on the lid. Super simple fix: Switched to using gas-rated plumber's tape (yellow or pink). Sealed up with only a couple layers, including the lid. Never had another problem with liquid or CO2 escaping. Yellow tape costs slightly more than white, but you actually use less of it, so it ends up being cheaper.
How often do you have to change the yellow tape?
@@sheaskateboarding So I use my FF all the time. I put about 5-6 wraps on it the first time. Every time after that I add one more wrap just to replace whatever's worn off. A few times I've stripped it clean and started fresh. Never had it leak, never had a problem. The yellow, or now grey, tape costs maybe a dollar more than the standard white but works a hundred times better.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m gonna start using some plumbers tape right away. I can’t imagine sparing up to 18hours for a leak test.
Mine went together well and did not leak. After the first year I decided to redo the Teflon tape on the male threads at the bottom of the conical where ball valve assembly screws onto it. 10 wraps and it was leaking very little,, took all night to see water at the top of the ball valve assembly. So I wrapped it again, dropped an O-ring onto the lip of the ball valve assembly where the very end of the conical would meet there, then painted the conical male threads with beeswax that I melted in a water bath with a pan. Wrapped 2 more layers over the wax, screwed it on tight and, It stopped leaking
The video was most helpful. I had hoped that you would have finished by stating the ideal room temperature for the fast fermenter to work?
Honestly, The design of the fast ferment needs to be changed! Just got a second one from your company due to the first leaking. This one I was sent leaks like crazy as well. I have followed the directions to the letter to no avail! Save your money people and buy a real fermenter!
I was just in the process of purchasing the fast ferment here in the UK, unfortunately my only option is to purchase it from Amazon UK!
But after I added up the cost of all the extra components I require it comes out at £236.00!!!
At first I believed this would be a cheaper option for me, until I came across many stainless steel conical fermenter's for far less money!
“Just keep adding tape”. What a solution 😂
Might take up to six tries.
Just got mine. Really excited to get going.
I have owned fast ferment for about 1 year. I have yet to get top lid to seal. Have spent time to fine sand lid seal area etc. Have pitched yeast twice per batch in panic mode of something going wrong. The quality of this mold reminds me a lot of cheap offshore products we all so often see as consumers. Little extra work with carboys. Save your 100$!!!
Hi Vertical flight, did you happen to email our customer service at info@fastbrewing.com to get a new lid and gasket out to you? Please let us know if you are continuing to have a leak.
Use gas rated plumber's tape rather than the white stuff. 3 wraps with yellow or pink plumber's tape and it seals up just fine. Also, I lubed the o-ring with silicone grease so that it doesn't snag and wrinkle on the plastic lip. Those two tricks and it worked rock solid.
What is the black o-ring for that came with the fermenter?
@@user-hb2xx3gs3f Hey, I suspect that is the spare o'ring. So just match up to whatever exist. I suspect it may be for collection ball?
@@user-hb2xx3gs3f If its the one I think you're talking about, it goes between the ball valve adapter and the ball valve housing. Should be a seat at the bottom of the ball valve housing for the ring to go into, then when you thread the adapter part on, it seals against that. The only other thing I know that is black was the old-style foam gasket for the lid, but that has been replaced with a silicon gasket.
Do yourself a favour and get yourself a roll of yellow teflon tape (it's rated for gas pipes). It's thicker and works 100x better than the basic white plumber's tape that is included.
A roll at Lowe's only costs about $3 and it will save you a huge headache.
After using this stuff on all the threads, I didn't have a single leak anywhere.
Nice tip. o7
Fast fermenter is awesome! But, I want to know if I can use it in a room with fluorescent lights or I need to cover my fermenter with the insulated jacket. Thanks.
I wish I had read the comments on this video before buying. My white rubbers came bruised. Got replacements after a month wait but the top now seems to also leak. I guess I ll keep adding tape...
Hi Ruben, you should not have a leak in your lid. If you require a replacement, please contact us at info@fastbrewing.com
@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 I really appreciate you getting back to me. I got my fastferment complete watertight by adding loads of teflon tape.
However today when I wanted to close the valve to take out the trub from secondary that worked, but I couldnt open it anymore. It was so stuck. The only way to open the valve was to loosen the grey bolt. But that caused the setup to leak.
In the end I had to transfer the whole thing to two fermenter buckets. It just kept leaking, if it wasnt the valve, it was the collector, if it wasnt the collector it was the bucket/valve connection.
Is mine just a lemon? Am I doing it wrong or?
Hi Ruben S, most people forget that the valve needs to be adjusted when it comes with the kit. We provide a sheet that tells you how the red handle works as a wrench to adjust the valve.
If you continue to have trouble, email us with the pictures of the conical and valve, and we can definitely see if we can send you the items that need to be replaced. The email address is info@fastbrewing.com
Looking forward to hearing from you!
@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 I have used that red tool to replace the two rubbers that were broken as mentioned before. That part was easy. The valve is super smooth when not under pressure but if screwed tight and under pressure it gets stuck. This is no fun with 50l of beer hanging over your living room floor.
What do you mean "forget?" - where in this video is the step I "forgot?" Can you link to some documentation or a time on this video?
I came here just to complain, but I really dont want to be just a toxic customer and I will accept a real solution, but so far my experience has been bad.
If you point me to what I forgot and it seems obvious, I will be the first to apologise here.
Hi Ruben S,
Our User Manual for the 7.9G has the instructions on Page 28 and our 14G Manual has it on page 25. We also have a FAQ section imbedded within our website at www.Fastbrewing.com that relates to this issue.
We really do appreciate all the feedback and also giving us the opportunity to fix all issues. We definitely do not want you to be dissatisfied with the product. You are more than welcome to contact our customer service department anytime at info@fastbrewing.com or through our toll free number at 1-800-549-5763 to speak to someone. We look forward to hearing from you.
If you are having a continued issue with your valve, then we will be more than happy to replace the valve for you.
The FastBrewing Team
You don’t show Teflon on the lid - do you just rely on the gasket? And, just got this and I can’t get the lid to actually catch the threads with the gasket installed - if I pull the gasket out I can get it to catch and tighten
My 14G failed its leak test over 7 times and didn’t matter how many times I applied more Teflon. I tried my own method of first applying vertical Teflon in the seams on both sides where there was obvious water leaking and it finally passed the leak test. So I started a wine batch just like the video told me to only to find out the valve leaks terribly. I’ve completely wasted over $150 kit because the valve they sent leaks. And now I’ve discovered that stopping this valve from leaking doesn’t even match the advice given in the “cleaning” video. The video clearly states the “oring” needs to be flush when this couldn’t be further from the truth. The “oring” on mine needs to adjust 2-3mm higher for it not to leak. It’s a very fine adjustment to achieve this and the video is not helpful or accurate at all. I’ve called them multiple times and NEVER had them answer my call or return a message. Every video the have states that you can call them for help but they NEVER answer or call back.
Hello - Can or has the Lid press out area's to fit push on pressure fitting to enable Co2 injection - pressure gauge monitoring - wort pressure transfer ...joe
I presume that tape is plumbers PTFE. If you buy gas grade it is 10x thicker, so 10x less turns required.
But I'll not be buying one till reports of the QC improve. Also, stirring up your start mix through that wee lid?
Just got my 14G built, and... can't stop it from leaking. Came to the video hoping maybe I'd missed something, but the solution here is just "keep adding more tape til the leak stops". Kinda disappointed in the quality of the product, tbh. Guess I'll just go add more tape...
Hi Wolfger, The 14G needs to be tightened higher than normal for the leak to stop. If you continue to run into trouble, please email us at info@fastbrewing.com to get the assistance you need.
I have problems with leaks on the valve: when I open it to my collection ball, the connection starts to leak.. I put a lot of tape but it stills leaking.. any suggestions? I also changed the O-ring
I have the 3 gallon sized one. Please guys make sure to put plumbers tape on the top lid because if not it won't seal. I think this guy failed to mention the most important part of the whole process.
Why is the valve installed in the reverse of the way, of the manufacture suggested way, the valve clearly has a direction of flow arrow on it, Do they not make one that is made with opposite flow? I have noticed that some brewers are seeming to have clogging issues, that may be avoided if flow direction was reversed, ( they may not also ), but the manufactures have the arrow on there for a reason..
that is the only way you have a union. that way you can remive the bottom part and attached the drain fitting without loosing the batch.
I just purchase one from my LHBS and the gasket for the lid is not like the one in the video. I got a cheap white foam looking gasket. How do I get the silicone one?
Hi Clay, We have upgraded to a hollow rubber gasket for the lid. Email us at info@fastbrewing.com to get a new gasket out to you.
I have three (3) 14 Gallon units. Just put them together. I had to buy some extra Teflon tape. Re-install and more tape three times each and the connection to the fermenter still leaks. Each time is more difficult to attach the valve. I just left them full with water tonight and will measure how much water is leaking. I might just cut my losses if it is just a few milliliters a week.
The unit leaked over the weekend. Repeated the process in one if them yesterday and it ia still leaking. I will suggest to redesign the unit with a ferrule connection
Hi @@thesangriashop1177 , We recommend screwing the valves as high as it would go on the conical so the leak stops. Most people screw the valve just enough not realizing that it has to be screwed higher on the 14G.
Hi @@@fastbrewingwinemaking497 Thanks for the reply. I have been tightening until all threads are inside.
I tried again today and have them as tight as I my friend and I could- again a few threads inside. The main problem is that the threads from the CPVC (gray) are not 100% match to the tank. A tri-clover connection will work better, no leaks and no over torque. You can see that the pats of the valve do not leak and you have to get them just hand tight and an extra 1/4 turn.
This thing leaks like a sieve, when you take the ball off the ball valve leaks. there are pockets all over the place that collect trub (thermowell, valve...) the forming of the plastic has lots of burrs and generally after the first brew you're fire fighting bad design. The valve sticks and when you try to release the handle snaps off.....etc. Great idea on the face of it but thrown out too soon without testing and the public pick up the development costs. I ended up buying a Fermzilla and it blows this away. Even the attempt to cover it is half baked.
Hi Phil,
You need to adjust the valve using the method below to ensure that the red handle does not snap off.
Also, this ensures that you do not get leaks where the vessel meets the conical.
The link attached should assist you with the leak.
fastbrewing.com/products/fastferment/frequently-asked-questions#faq-42
I'm finding that the lid keeps loosening itself so I have to keep tightening it up again is this normal?
No. In fact I have the opposite. My lid ends up being so tight I have to put on a pair of gloves with grip on it so I can properly get it off.
Why do you have to go so fast and not show the parts?
what kind of tape is that?
He calls it "T-tape". The T stands for Teflon.
I've yet to use mine. I do have one question though. After I'm done, and I've sterilized everything for the next use, then I will have to retape and water test every single time correct? It just seems like the time it takes to transfer to a secondary is less than going through this process of taping and checking for leaks constantly.
Hi Indian Head Jerry, We recommend the above procedure to prevent cross contamination between batches. The leak test would be recommended so that you do not have an on going leak.
Mine won't stop leaking no matter what I do. I guess it's a good concept but poor design.
Hi Indian Head Jerry,
Kindly email us at info@fastbrewing.com to assist you further in regards to the leak issue.
The FastBrewing Team
This thing is complete garbage. Nothing is tight fitting with the threads at all. U can wiggle the carboy and valve connection almost all the way tight with significant play. U can even bottom the threads out with almost a full roll of Teflon tape.
But to make matters worse. Who ever welds the two half’s together in the factory must of been sleeping when he made mine and from what I can gather others have the same issues with the seam. I have two separate leaks in the seam. I’m glad I noticed, but if the welds are that poor how many people must have nice batch’s of red wine all over their floors when this thing decides to let go.
Great concept. Crap design.