Onkyo TX-NR5007 no sound repair (BGA reflow, reinforcement & heatsinking)
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Quick and dirty repair of an Onkyo receiver suffering the "everything normal but no sound" issue. This issue is common across a very wide range of Onkyo receivers, and in most cases doing what I did in this video will remedy the issue quite reliably. We also have a quick look at the internals of this rather high-end, 9-channel unit.
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Onkyo TX-NR708. No sound. Was just about to throw it out when I saw this post. Bought an SRA flux pen, 20mm heat sink, and some paste. Set my heat gun to 500 degrees and heated the chip for 1 minute and 20 seconds (used my iPhone stop watch). Sound is back and I am very happy. I have never done anything like this before and can't believe how easy it was. $20 investment and 5 minutes of work saved me a lot of money. Thank you so much for this post.
Glad you got it sorted.
Same for me :) But now I have to do it again, but do it like FFcossag did it, not just like me that only refloated it. No sink og paste and less heat.
This exact description worked for me.
Many thanks. My TX-NR807 is working again.
I bought all the stuff :
- heatgun,
-flux pen,
-thermal's paste,
-raspberry's heat sink,
-and a 12volt cpu fan.
Did it cure and still work on your 807
What did you wire the CPU fan into, I was wondering about this as well since the entire HDMI board has no air cooling?
Thank you from Germany, your video helped me to fix my NR 809 🙏🏻🍻
This method worked for my Integra DTR-40.2. I used a MG Chemicals Rosin Flux Pen, and just a microchip heat gun. I applied heat until the chip hit 650 F. I kept the heat on for 10 seconds
then took the heat off to let it cool to room temperature. Fired it up and the speaker matrix came back on after 5 seconds.
I attatched heatsinks out of a broken N64 using Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.
I bought the receiver for $150 off OfferUp knowing the bad history with the DTS chip.
Thank you for this video. Now I finally have a receiver that can bring my 4 ohms M&K S-85 and S-85c speakers to life!
Hello, about your Onkyo, is it still working after the repair?
@@marcocoratti809 the DTR-40.2 worked for a few months after the repair, and sold to a buyer who was aware of the repairs and risks.
Thank you! I have exactly the same receiver and.this fix worked perfectly for me. It seems heat is always an issue with amplifiers. Your video was very informative. I used my heat gun to check other chips on the board and ordered two heat sinks, a 15mm x 15mm x 14.5mm and a 21mm x 21mm x11mm.
Hi , What kind of glue did you used to fix the heat sinks on the DTS chip? thx.
Hello @@alaindumulong7657 , I ordered two heat sinks from DIGIKEY.com. While I was looking at the board I noticed another larger Chip that was very hot as well as the one I repaired. I ordered the following heat sinks (both have a peel and stick compound already, no need for thermal adhesive):
PART: ATS1280-ND
DESC: HEAT SINK 15MM X 15MM X 14.5MM
MFG : Advanced Thermal Solutions Inc. / ATS-55150K-C1-R0
COO : CHINA
ECCN: EAR99
HTSUS: 8473.30.5100
LEAD FREE ROHS COMP
Mercury: Cert on File. For more information contact RoHS@DigiKey.com
and
PART: 345-1089-ND
DESC: HEATSINK CPU 21MM SQ W/ADH BLK
MFG : Wakefield-Vette / 624-45ABT3
COO : CHINA
ECCN: EAR99
HTSUS: 8473.30.5100
LEAD FREE ROHS COMP REACH UNAFFECTED Jan-2017
Mercury: Cert on File. For more information contact RoHS@DigiKey.com
My unit is working great and has been now for a month, we will see if there are anymore issues ...
Good luck to all!
Derek.
@@derekjohnson770 Thanks for the info Derek. Just wondering if you'd say the 15mm was the perfect size or would you suggest a bigger or smaller size?
@@jeratt1 Yes, the heat sink sizes are perfect and my receiver is still working great. I also purchased an AV Infinity cooling unit which sits on top, terrific product, see Amazon. The cooling unit has a sensor in it that triggers the uber quiet fans when temperature reaches a set point, it's so nice, it blows the hot air away from the receiver to the rear.
Good luck,
Derek
@@derekjohnson770 Thanks for the info on the heatsinks. I have a TX-NR5008 that suffers the same issue. I plan on doing this fix but curious as to how the fix has held up for you. It's been over a year. Hopefully you see this. Thanks!
Thanks for your tutorial. My TX NR 5009 is working again. I‘m so happy. Best regards from Germany
Glad to hear it.
THX for your Vid, used it as a reference. Owning a HT-R380, in 6 Years nothing happend, even hot summers never a problem - but yesterday......So i used a Southbridge Heatsink from a Asus Board and thermalpaste. At the moment, seems to work!
I have an onky NR414
I bought the accessories and went to fix with worries worked like magic
Many thanks
I pasted a heat spreader hoping for years of music
Thanks for the help! A little heat and a heatsink and we are back in business.
There is a simpler diagnose: press and hold "display" , then press "on". Release both and quickly press "tone +". You can cycle through the software versions of all CPUs. If DSP shows ????????? instead of a number, it is the problem. The devices have other typical faults: the higher models have bad SMD electrolytics on the underside of the HDMI board. Also, a dead main relay might fail to switch the analog transformer. All faults lead to no sound.
What capacitors are the one in question? Any chance you have their number - I have the above problem after Onkyo replaced the chip so I think it might be the caps....
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Legend Jimmy instablaster =)
@Wayne Fabian I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Wayne Fabian it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
Have a TX-NR616 with the same issue. Tried your fix.....now it works again! Thanks!
Glad it worked out.
Did you have to do it again a few months later ?
People, when you buy an AV receiver buy cooling fans. They are a must to help these last for years to come. Heat is their worse enemy..
Thank you so much sir for your kind help.
Well, I have the same issue wd that (dts) Receiver TX-DS575 as you've just explained onds video. But I tried it and it does work for me. I'm actually from fiji 🇫🇯 and I've tried look in to so many places but unfortunately they just can't fix the problem. But now I'm so happy that I saved much $$$ on repairing ds Radio. Coz I just can do it myself. 💯👏☝️
Your factory reset did it for me. Thank you for posting.
One other clue to this chip needs refloating is not network, it simply disappears from the network altogether.
So everything working normal, but the second audible click from the amp´s missing, not sound and no network, then you need to refloat.
Did this a couple a month ago, and not I have to do it again. But this time more heat like in the video here and a heatsink witch I did not do first time around. Hope it will last a little longer then :-)
Thanks for a solid and good video.
Thanks man, this vid saved me from a rainy weekend with no tv or playstation
There needs to be a class action lawsuit over these faulty DTS chips, it's ridiculous how many receivers they affected.
Jup, only problem is that pioneer and onkyo went bankrupt few years ago.
@@peterdevreter oh wow, I wasn't aware of that! Never mind then I guess.
They are aware of this actually one time they fixed a receiver for free and it was that same chip. You would call and even without warranty they would cover it since many had this same issue.
I bought an Onkyo receiver and bought an external fan that plugs into the USB port in the back positioned the fan right over that chip and I have never had a problem just something to keep in mind if you get a receiver of this type or should I say AV receiver buy that external fan and just set it on top of the receiving near to where the chip is and it will keep that bored nice and cool
Thanks very much mate :-) I put flux around the outside of the chip and I heated mine to around 220 C on my Onkyo TX-NR809. I waited for the chip to return to room temp, switched it on and Wooohoo! It lives! I then put a small heat sink on it from Jaycar Electronics here in Australia to protect it from perhaps failing again. I hope this fix lasts as I rang Onkyo today and was told they no longer fix under warranty as of 31st December 2018 so lucky this fixed it :-D
This is the heat sink I used which seems perfect for the job.
www.jaycar.com.au/heatsink-pin-grid-array-with-adheasive-thermal-transfer-tape/p/HH8580
There is a simpler diagnose: press and hold "display" , then press "on". Release both and quickly press "tone +". You can cycle through the software versions of all CPUs. If DSP shows ????????? instead of a number, it is the problem. The devices have other typical faults: the higher models have bad SMD electrolytics on the underside of the HDMI board. Also, a dead main relay might fail to switch the analog transformer. All faults lead to no sound.
Thanks for your advice . I did the same . And it works. Now the Texas chip gets 34 °C.
@@mogensstergaardandersen9535 No worries, you're welcome. 👍
@@Homerlovesbeer2 But after 4 h it died again. Tried a resolder more with 230 °C. No sound. Tried to activate the main amp by putting secH1 to ground. The relays changed but no sound. The Tuner and preamp seems to work. So next step is to use the parts to a standard 7*130W amp.
As the owner of this TX-NR5007 I can tell you that it is still working perfectly fine! It may soon be time for a replacement but the only thing I want to change is the size of this monster. I want something physically smaller but with the same big sound! And of course with some additional features. Ideas are welcome even though I may continue to use this unit for a while more...
My 2011 Integra just started having the same issue. Might try this easy solution.
How long did the fix last since ou did the repair please?
@@vortexor1 Well it's been working fine for 6 years now so it must have been a good fix!
Thanks man!!! My nr809 has a sound again with a 5 min work! 😁👏👏👏
That's the Texas instrument Aureus chip 830a that comes in a lot of higher end pioneer elite and onkyo Integra amps
I had that receiver in the past,great receiver even in stereo direct,great sound,i sold it and replaced it for a denon avrx 4100,because off dolby atmos, the onkyo had a much better sound in stereo,i still recret it,the hdmi board was working fine,but i no it was a problem with these amps.sorry for mine bad english.nice review.
wow looks damn mighty for a multichannel receiver.
This is exactly what I was wondering with the Onkyo TX-NR609, got it for dirt cheap and now I know why same exact issue...I was wondering if a heatsink was a valid option and you confirmed it, I shall get a heatgun in the next couple of weeks and some of that thermal paste, I think I have some heatsink blocks floating around.
same with my TX-NR3007 bought in 2010, HDMI boad replaced in 2012 already and just failed again one week ago.waiting for Onkyo's reply from their support website
I bought a Sony ES A/V Receiver and it had a 5-year warranty. Shortly after the 5 years ran out, the Sony A/V Receiver died. I was told the motherboard overheated and nothing could be done to repair it. I then bought a TX-NR5007 and it lasted only two years before breaking. There was a 3-Year Warranty, so I actually got it replaced with a TX-NR5009. Unbelievably, the TX-NR5009 had its own problem where after about 3 years the graphic menu stopped working. Onkyo extended the warranty for that reason so people could get their motherboards fixed for free - but only for that reason. The remote control on my TX-NR5009 stopped working for no reason within the 3-year warranty, but Onkyo said they didn't have anymore remotes. The only licensed place in Michigan told me they don't work on those remotes. So, I was just out of luck. I am never buying anything from Onkyo, Sony, JBL, HP, or Toshiba ever again because their products simply do NOT last!
It's planned obsolescence. Not just those brands. Maybe smaller niche products are built to higher specs but are also more expensive. You cannot cram 1300W of power amplification in that chassis and expect it to last.
Look at some proper 2kW/4ohm amp:
analogdomain.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20&Itemid=21
Dimensions: 440(w) x 254(h) x 545(d), mm
Weight: ~ *65kg* , 95kg shipping
Now that can expel the heat without exceeding 50 deg Celsius cause it has 20+Kg of heatsinks on 52 power transistors. Shipping that beast will cost half the price of that Onkyo.
I just tried this and it worked on my 5007! I just need to figure out what kind of "glue" to use to properly set the heatsink in place. Thanks a lot!
Its call heatsink paste
I didn't realise how big is it until now.Wow!
Thanks!!! Worked for me on HT-RC180
He uses hot air gun from a solder station unit. Use Flux first.
Heat chip to 220C for 10 seconds , if it moves at all stop, let cool.
You can also use a car headlight bulb , 12 v halogen. About 55 watts.
This will not blow chip off the pad. Use Flux first.
Thank you for the Video, knowing where the problem is helps a lot. But why do you leave out the details about the temperature settings? I fixed my Onkyo sucessfully, but to reflow a chip you need to heat it to 240 degrees with an airgun that is set to around 340 degrees. The moment the solder becomes fluid a small burst of smoke is emitted, that is the point where you stop heating. In the video your IR thermometer never goes above 170, I would think that this is too low. But I have to admit that I did not try to fix mine with only 170 degrees. Also consider that Onkyo may agree to fix this issue for free so it does not hurt to ask.
That's the temps I used for mine and mine is now fixed. Touch wood it lasts. I've now put a heat sink on it so hopefully the fix lasts.
170C
Hi, I got an Onkyo TX-NR906, I got audio, no HDMI (picture). Same chip issue or some caps on the board. thank you. Great video by the way.
Thanks! I fixed my TX-NR818 with the help of this video. Would've been great to list the size of heat sink. Hopefully you can include a parts listing in future videos.
still working?
Such a simple fix, for such an expensive piece of kit... You really impress me more every time I watch a new video of yours.
My kid brother, (rich bugger) has one of these amps. His still works fine...
Thanks for sharing this. ;o)
ATB from the UK.
I'd Recommend putting a heatsink on the deocder to prevent possible issues....
The chip my unit has is a Fujitsu MB86D42.
Greetings everyone!
I did the test on my TX-NR809 with the hair dryer and it worked.
As I understand it, the heating expands the connections, making it work again.
What I didn't understand is how to maintain these connections by the heat, keeping it cold.
Would it be too much to ask the experts for a numbered step by step?
Your video and comments were the ones that gave me the most security, since I don't know anything about electronics and also because in Brazil, precious information like yours is very difficult to find.
In advance I apologize to you and everyone if I put myself in an unreasonable way and thank you.
those should have some 120-140mm PC case fans in it. All that heat build-up is destructive.
I have 2 fans controlled by a thermo coupler on top of my tx-nr807. It’s still running strong!
That's a serious looking amplifier!
Onkyo TX-NR1007
# No Sound, kein Ton, defekt
Thank you so much, made it with 170 Celsius and it works perfekt. Will add a heat sink the next days.
May I spent you a coffee... or a box of good german beer :-)
THX M
I'm glad it worked!
What temperature did you apply in Celsius and for how long?
Your awesome brother ,I fixed both my fav 818 and 809
Does it still work for you? My 818 just broke down. But works after a minute with the heatgun. Then after 2-3 minutes it breaks again
@@AndersBergh yes it does and mine after I use heat gun lasts 2 to 3 months but I'm not doing it often and saved it as I know one day the chip will fry ...but I bought an onkyo 929 it uses a different board all together and that one has no issues ..still prefer the 818 it is the king of music and movies
.the 929 is a close second...also bought older non hdmi harman kardon as they sound very close to the onkyos
@@christiansaab9128 nice. I'll borrow a temperature controlled heat gun tomorrow and will try with higher more precise temp.
Thanks for getting my hopes up. 🙏
@@AndersBergh brother there us always hope Anders....for best results make a tube with aluminum foil and hold it on the chip ..175 celsius for a minute then let cool and fire up ..all the best to you
Yup, AV recievers have almost all of their issues in the digital section.
Audio amps rarely fail and often last decades when handled properly (yes, even if it gets very hot).
AV recievers are just too complicated, and the manufacturers have no clue how to cool it. I have an older Onkyo, 2007 model. Analog Part is amazing, but it has a very similar problem: The HDMI subboard gets really toasty, much more than the 85C rating for the caps. So for older Onkyos that dont have the BGA, just replace the HDMI smd caps ;) (with better rated ones), and perhaps install a fan ontop. The fan is the reason why mine still works after years of usage.
It really makes me wonder why they did not properly design the thermal part of this subboard, when the rest of the reciever is build like a friggin tank.
Thanks for the reply!
you tha' man! amazing how you get them running
This will apply to Integra DTR 30.4 amp as well same DTS issue you can say in simple the second click sound which power up the standby amp. Rest everything is working but no sound
Sure, just watch. I'll open up the in-laws 2001 Denon receiver and find this was the sort of thing that failed on theirs. Although I suspect it might be a bit more complicated since it was the output on the amplifier section itself that failed, while the preamp-out (to their power amp for the rest of the rooms in the house) worked fine.
I have the same symptoms as this unit. I'm going to try this (perhaps with less thermal compound) :)
It worked. Thanks so much. I threw on a heat sink made for a raspberry pi, it fit the chip perfectly. If it stops working again I'll update my post. My model is HT-R990
@@kevinxero still it work?
I have the Pioneer SV-1522-K with the same problem, but has "two" chips. So I'm guessing both chips need to be heatsinked! What exact kind of flux pen and compound/adhesive would you recommend for the repair ? Brand name, and exactly the flux pen title and adhesive is called?? Want to make sure I have the right materials. Your a life/money saver!! Thanks
Unfortunately in my case still no sound after several attempts heating up the dts chip.
At the same time the ethernet connection has stopped working as well...
Model: TX-NR616
???????
I have a 616 behaving the same, i will try your method but could you please confirm this is the correct process & temperature:
1)clean chip with pencil
2) put flux and tilted
3)heat chip - 1wave at 152C and then 174C (for what i saw in your video)
4)let it cool and try
6)apply thermal glue and place heatsink
Thanks
Just flux it and heat it until the solder balls melt. You can't go by tempereatuers, it's a finger tip feel thing.
Where did you learn about all of these components? You seem to know the electronics better than the unit. I can tell you the specs of the receiver but I want to know more about thr electronics
Nice repair!
So many of these Onkyo AVRs have problems - why don't they build them better...?
Hm, what kind of glue did you use there?
I'd also be concerned of that glue going between the chip and the board.
And as Louis Rossman has told us, "reflowing BGA chips" isn't always properly fixing the problem as it might've also been a defective chip which got revived for a short time by heating it up a bit. But then again fixing something that way is always better than just throwing it in the trash without even trying, even if it won't last as long :D
It's Fujik thermal compount from Dealextreme. The issue on these models is not a defective chip; I've fixed too many of them with too high a long-term success rate for that to be the case.
@@FFcossag Have you ever came across an Onkyo with "no sound", except from "zone 2"?
The one I'm trying to fix has NO BGA chip, instead it does have a DSP TMS320D788E001BRFP chip on the HDMI board.
The receiver is a HT-R580.
The HDMI pass-trho and zone 2 audio works.
No audio from any digital source (opt/coax/hdmi), even in zone 2.
Great video. I have the TX-NR5010 and my chip was replaced by Onkyo and I immediately put a heat sink on it. But now the problems reappear.
I was watching Star Wars on TV (sub HDMI output was off), in the middle I decided to go with the projector, so I turned both HDMI outputs (in the Settings of the receiver) to on and after just one or two minutes the receiver was loosing the signal continuously so watching was not possible.
I guess that using both HDMI outputs ( might draw more current, so might it be, that the capacitors lost their capacity?
Sometimes I get the problem when listening to CD via HDMI (no problem over coaxial or optical) - "No Signal".
What capacitors are the ones to be replaced on the HDMI board and is it advisable to use ones with higher capacity (or voltage) rating???
Hello there have a question your video was excellent I have the same receiver but I have no output to my subwoofer what do you think could be wrong
I got a onkyo 5008 with no sound need help fixing it love that amp ???
Great fix :-D, dam bga's again!, too many laptops die because of that daft design :-(
Holy fuck! You again? :o)
Are you stalking me?
Thanks. I'm honoured. LOL.
ha ha :-D im like dog crap, im everywhere :-D
I tried with 75 watts bulb and don't work, I can't fixed 😞😞
Did this amp hold up or did you end up finding it was a combination of the metal capos and the other regular electrolytics that needed changing.? I would have at least used traceless flux under a bga reflow.
Boss Need help how many ribbon cable pin hdmi & from side of body tq
Hello - I have this amp and unfortunately I am getting a crackle out of the left front speaker only. It seems to be only when the amp has warmed up and not intially on cold. Any ideas would be much appreciated as I wouldn't want to get rid of the amp just for this reason. I have checked the cable to the speaker which is fine. Many thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have to try this next week. Warming my DTS chip with a hairdryer allows to work while the NR609 is powered up. As soon as it is powered down it loses the speakers again. I have flux and a cheap heat-gun. Your temperature never seems to get to high. Is there any advice on how hot to how long to heat the chip ?.
look for another video on this same subject it seems a lot on Onkyo receivers suffer this same fate. I saw a guy use some flux around the chip heat up a specialized tipped heat gun to around 600 degrees until the fluxed bubbled and he pulled the heat away.. Then let the chip cool to room temperature, never ever touching the chip. He then put a heat sink on top of the chip.
I have some questions
Hi there i have a onkyo that there no sound coming from the speaker I bought it from a guy on Facebook it was brand new can you please help me
When making a how to video maybe share the details on the reflow temperature and how long your heating it? But yea, I tried this on my NR509 which has been silent for 2 years first with ~180c, then 195, then 210-220 (serapate tests) and did not wake it up. I have a hot air station and a IR-temp meter also so I went for it gradually. Maybe tomorrow i'll try even hotter but I dunno, I think its dead. To my knowledge it should reflow at around 180-200 if it's ever going to. But not much to lose here..
You need airflow of about 400 C, since the thermal resistance from air to board is very high.
My Onkyo TX-SR875 gives Popping/Crackling sound in main Front Left and
Front Right Channels. And its works ok only in Multi channel in mode
with Pure Audio/Direct Audio sound mode. Its not works in DSP modes.
I have an Onkyo TX-NR609 that does not power on. I unplugged it for 20 minutes and when I plug it in again it just keeps clicking every 3 seconds or so. There are no lights coming on when it clicks. Any ideas on where I can start looking for a problem? I have already checked the fuses and the big transformer has primary and secondary voltage for a brief second between clicks.
The correct way to fix this is to remove the chip and do a complete reballing but nice video anyway!
Hi sir I have Onkyo TX-NR 1009 I have a little problem hopefully you can help me the Problem is automatically shutdown f I can play within 1hrs somtime when I turn on few minutes shutdown again thank you...
Hello I have a tx-sr875 that has never had this type of complete failure but mine has a loud pop or high volume buzz. would the HDMI chip in question be the problem as well. It only does this when the chip is hot
I have a Onkyo TX-NR646 and my front speakers are not working. However, my center speaker and my surround speakers work. Could this DTS chip problem be causing this?
Hi there, its a great video. I stumbled across this while trying (desperately) to get information on the issue i am facing with my tx-nr5007. I could see that there is a short circuit in the massive toroidal transformer(the biggie in the middle), however i don't have a clue on its rating. it will be really helpful if you can provide any information on the transformer specs. Thank you
I have no idea, but I strongly doubt there's anything wrong with your transformer. Keep in mind that a multimeter will show it as 0 ohm if it's OK.
hola de mexico me podra explicar paso a paso en mi idioma esa es pasta terrmica y se pondria un difusor de calor
Great work!! Congratulations!! What temperature should be reaching the chip in order to make the balls underneaht the chip to re solder? What time do you recommend to apply that temperature?
Get it up to about 200-220 C, maintain it for up to 10 seconds.
look at copper rail on 03:39. real deserve quality.
cheers from Indonesia
Hey! I do the same as i see on your video. Amp works like 5 min, and then again silence... Any tip?
I have an issue with just one height channel not working on a TX-NR646. Any ideas? Already ruled out speaker or wiring ussues, it's a problem with the amp.
I know this is a older video, this is only my second time commenting on one, but hopefully you see this and can give me some helpful advise. I have the same issue with my onkyo, and have fluxes and heated the chip to 300 degrees f, and again to 350-370 degrees with no luck. Is there any way to measure the volts going through the chip with a multimeter to if the chip is bad? I understand its supposed to flow at 5 volts.
You likely won't find any issues with the power rails without an oscilloscope.
I'm right there with you with no change at 330-350 degrees. Now, I'm searching for main relay video's...which aren't as plentiful.
I have a old Onkyo TX-SV424 that has one channel without sound and the other is fine but the one that is out sometimes works but goes back out....any ideas?
It’s time for them to do fan cooled amps more often
Hell, no thanks. How about they don't skimp on parts like heatsinks? The thing is though, they are designed to do this - fail after warranty period ends.
I dont understand. You have to overheat dsp or cooling by heatsink?
You heat it to make sure it's soldered properly, then you have to make sure it's as cool as possible while the unit is on.
Is that aluminium heatsink that expensive that Onkyo not using them? Same mistake over and over... I ll never buy an Onkyo product! :(
I am an Onkyo dealer. I have seen an average of 3 years lifespan before something dies out of several hundred units sold. Not cool.
same thing's happened to mine, curious to see if i can fix it
I have a TX-SR705 with plenty of space above it and never had an issue with it.
Stacking something on top of these machines kills them with ease imo.
That’s a brilliant reason to stop selling them ...
@@RuiSilvaPT one of mine had nothing on top of it and badly overheated
Integras are doing the same thing. I am getting customer calls of receivers we installed 3-4 years ago with the same crappy outcome. We stopped selling Denons for HDMI board problems. then we went to Yamaha. Solid units, never had 1 RMA'd, but the Crestron integration wasn't the best so we moved to Integra. Now planning to go back to Yamaha.. lets see...
Hi FFcossag - I just acquired all the necessary parts and tools for this repair and I am about to attempt this procedure tomorrow. Can you please advise how long you applied heat to the PCB for the pre-heat stage and for the actual re-flow stage. Also, can you advise what temperatures you used for each process. Thanks in advance.
It's impossible to explain, there are too many variables. I'd recommend testing on a scrap PCB first - just try to desolder a BGA by heating it, to get a feel for how long it takes to melt the solder fully. Then heat the chip in the Onkyo 1/5th that time.
Thanks for your response, I will give that a try.... fingers crossed.
FYI... I was successful. In case anyone else is interested on what I did, I preheated the chip and the locally surrounding PCB area to 90c for ~1.5 - 2.0 minutes, then using the provided syringe I applied the SRA TF5000 No Clean Tacky Flux around the entire chip. Second, using my heat gun set to 225c I applied direct heat over the center of the chip for ~30 - 40 seconds until the surface temperature was reading 160c using my laser temperature gun and I could see the flux being sucked under the chip and smelled the burning flux. Finally, I allowed the chip to come back down to normal room temperature and tested it; success! I'm not sure if this a solid methodology for everyone to use however it worked perfectly for me and you might want to consider it a loose guidance.
Davide Cippitelli How is the receiver doing after 6 months?
is it still working after your repair or did you have to do it again?
Hi, I'm having a problem where the sound does come on but only after several minutes (5 to 15...), is this a DTS issue or could it be a power transformer issue?
merci super good job
Y isntalar unos ventiladores a 127v o 12v no sería mas practico para mantener la temperatura controlada tengo el htr 530 y se calienta bastante y le coloque 4 ventiladores de 12v con un eliminador y hasta hoy está bien y ya no se calienta mucho
temp fixes don't last too long : (
That's why they installed the heat sink to keep it from happening again. If he just heated it though that would be a temp fix.
Got a TX-NR607 which suffers the common problem with no OSD. All onkyo receivers seems to run hot as hell ruining the caps and so forth. Haven't got around fixing though...
They only offer that in certain countries.
And on certain serial number. My TX-SR806 is not covered in Canada... So i repaired it myself.
nice one james
Where can I buy one of those chips to replace the one I have?
great video, thanks! I own a TX-NR709 and after 9 years i'm having the same DTS chip issue. I temporarily get if to work with a blow dryer and I'm planning to resolder using a heat gun and some soldering flux. I had a question re the size of the heat sink. All I could find was a 14mmx14mmx5mm would that suffice?
Really any heat sink works.
@@FFcossag Great, thanks! I just did the repair and it didn't work initially but I did the reset and it worked. I was wondering if I should wait to install the heat sink (heard elsewhere to leave receiver on for a week first?) or if I should do it right away. Thanks!
OK. INitial resoldering did not work. I rpeated the process at 620 F for about a minute or so (stopped when flux started to smoke). Let it cool, turned it on and voila. It worked. Turned off and turned back on after 15 min. It worked again.30 min. 45 min, 1 hour, 2 hours. Next day, it worked again. So I installed heat sink, and it has been working fro the past few days. I hope it continues this way!
Nice!
After six years of the fix it's still working the amp?
I think so.
Why so much thermal solution? It might be that I’m just used to building PCs but why would you use that much on the chip and board?
It's to mount the heat sink to the baord as well as the chip, to relieve strain from the solder balls. It lasts longer this way.
so you just stuck the heatsink on with thermal paste?
No, it's thermal adhesive.
I have the same problem with my Pioneer VSX-60 and my Integra DTR-30.3 Av Receivers, but I think mine have a relay problem.
Did you solved the relay problem? I assume the second click sound of relay powering up the standby amplifier
Most people won't have the skills to do a proper reflow! This takes lots of practice and most people will end up blowing components off the board!
Doesn't quite matter, when they end up with a dead unit either way.