An exceptionally good video! As I’m a sailing nerd with a lot of real life experience, I pretty much always find seriously misleading info in this type of content. In this case, nothing of that, whatsoever. This video explores the right topics, draws the right conclusions, explains them correctly and doesn’t omit anything needed in this context. Applause! I totally agree about the anchor comments too, by the way. Rockna is a great anchor, but has a weakness with resetting after a windshift. I’ve experienced it myself. Other anchors with an arch seem to share this weakness. I can’t say for sure, but my impression is that the arch collects seaweed etc, which changes the balance and drag of the anchor, so the tip is held off the bottom. The tip wasn’t covered. It just didn’t grip. Spade is my clear favourite. The galvanised one especially, but I’d love to have the aluminium one, as I sail a weight sensitive catamaran. Maybe I’ll go for an oversized alu...
I second that very much. Hard to find solid info, experience and proper analysis you can trust. Lots of consideration - and relevant questions - seems to go into these videos. Thanks a lot Sailing Fair Isle - you got a new subscriber ;-)
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Brecken Stanley I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
This is one of the best, most complete anchoring videos out there. The worst part of anchoring is that many don't know how to do it, and put everyone else at risk due to their ignorance.
@@svfairisleYou've earned another sub. It's hard finding informative, educational channels out here. At least ones that aren't laden with drama and reality show nonsense. You guys do it right.
A very good video about anchoring. Nice to see one that focuses on the REAL issue of anchoring: proper technique and the system. I have fairly extensive experience and some suggestions for your presentation, however. You have what appears to be an Ideal heavy duty windlass that may be able to withstand the stresses of backing down and breaking out the anchor. Most of the folks who watch this video more likely have a less robust recreational windlasses that will eventually (soon most likely) fail if used to hold the tension of back down and break out. You mentioned that you are planning a chain stopper installation and I would recommend you put that as a priority if you want to save your windlass. Although you appropriately gently back down it is still an enormous pressure and breaking out a stuck anchor by driving over it can exert destructive forces to most recreational windlasses. All this can be avoided with a chain stopper or by using a snubber (a chain hook makes this a lot easier). I think you should amend this video or put a caveat about putting shock loads on most windlasses. Don't ask how I learned this. I have rebuilt several of them. I also agree with your assessment of the Rocna. I saw a guy sawing the roll bar off his $800 version after realizing the thing had a penchant for collecting the bottom and failing to reset. Every time I hear some yachtie talk about "next generation" anchors or simply buying "one size larger" I hope they stay tied to a dock somewhere because they are repeating marketing talk, not anything factual. Part of anchoring should be situational awareness and when things get snotty, taking action to move while you still have time or prepping a second anchor is much more important to your survival than what brand of anchor you have down. I know a group of boats that were lost in an open roadstead in Cost Rica last year because some of them hunkered down behind their gear rather than take to sea as they should have when the surf came up. Some of them were unable to get their hooks up when the surf started and several ended up on the beach. I have always had a second anchor ready to go when things are getting iffy and want a primary anchor I can get up so I can move. The marketing folks all suggest they can give you an anchor that will "never drag". You have sailed enough to know this is ridiculously untrue and dangerous talk. FWIW. Ray Durkee
Chris was a fascinating chap to listen to so I am very glad that you shared this with us all. I'll be sharing it on my sailing / boating blogs with my fellow boaters.
Loved the video. Thanks so much! Always good to have a very clear description and demonstration of how to do things. Other folks use nylon line for snubber and/or bridle since it can stretch more than other types of line. 2:38 LOL. The Beneteau literally just dropped the anchor and called it done. Amazing that people can get on a boat and have no idea what they're doing.
Thank you for an informative and very watchable video. As you have invited feedback I hope my comments will be of some interest. I always use a hollow bar to operate the clutch on the windlass, as this keeps fingers away from danger. Yes I have used my hands but I insist that crew never do. To keep the angle of lift below 11deg I use the formula (depth + height of bow)X4 added to length of boat. The length of boat is significant when this is applied in shallow water. Once anchoring for more than a lunch stop or a swim I always use a snubber. My method of using the snubber is to attach to the chain with a chain hook and lower it to over a meter below the water. I then pay out more chain up to 2/3rds of the depth. I have found this practice (as shown to me by a sailor on an 11 year circumnavigation) keeps the angle of the pull down in all but very severe winds and also allows for rapid escape if necessary. I do not use a chum as it can imprison one in difficult conditions because hauling anchor involves retrieving the chum first. Which anchor? The spade is my choice, which I bought through Calibra Marine Southampton. I sail a 1975 Amel Meltem, she is 18 metric ton, 16 meters with almost 2metres freeboard and currently on the hard in Preveza. Thank you very much for all your efforts to bring us these videos and congratulations on such a beautiful and well found yacht. Best wishes and safe passage.
Hi Niall, thanks for your comments. Interesting with your formula for scope, I haven't heard of that one before. But you're right that the traditional formula doesn't allow for the fact that you don't need as much scope in deeper water as you do in shallow water so that may be a good one. Regarding the bar for the clutch, the reason I rarely use it is that the temptation to tighten the clutch so there's no slip is too much. If you're hauling the anchor and it's having trouble releasing from the seabed I want the windlass clutch to slip a bit to tell me it's struggling, then I will reposition the boat, maybe over-run the anchor a bit and wait for the release. Nipping the clutch up with the bar means the windlass might be able to pull it out but that's a the risk of straining the windlass. I do this even though I have a hydraulic windlass, it's even more important if you have an electric one. Good choice with the Amel!
Very informative, the German guy really knows his stuff. I know you don't like roll bars on anchors but we are extremely happy with our Mantus anchor. Just like you we over specced on size. We have a 46 foot boat and a 39 kilo (85lbs) Mantus. People look at the size of it and we're sure they're sniggering, but the thing is, it goes in every time and more importantly it stays in. Apparently it will reset within 3 metres if there's a wind or current 180 change. We even had one subscriber who calculated that with all of our 100m out it would hold us in 80 knots, but we're not willing to test his calculations.
I love your display of intelligence, it makes your videos very interesting, intriguing, rewarding, and a pleasure to view. Your demonstrations are like a picture, they say a 1,000 words. Thank you for the time, effort, and research you put into your post. Stay safe. GOD bless ya’ll.
Thanks for all the information, especially on the types of chain. It is a real eye-opener and is priceless! The diagrams and theory on anchoring technique are just as awesome. Thanks again.
This is an excellent technical video on Anchors, chain and anchoring in general. Both the quality of the information, and the quality of the production are very high.
Nicely done, we are of the same mindset. I pick a good Anchorage first. If it means an extra hour of choppy sea, so be it. 7-1 generally for me. Never dragged, was taught by a guy that spent 12 years cruising. My fear is everyone around me lol. We anchored one night in a less than ideal spot....35 feet of water and a little land shelter. Behind me there were 8 boats anchored in a pretty sheltered Cove...with the weather forecast of 35 kts I didn't want to be among them. It was tight in there as it was. Wind coming up, sun going down, late in the day, I stayed out a bit and anchored. The wind howled, the rain came. Next morning those boats were in near the beach, near a yacht club, and I said to my wife " in this wind, I wouldn't be bringing the boat in that close for breakfast"... "we will go in when it settles down a bit". We went in a couple of hours later to learn they were in trouble all night, up running engines, rodes tangled, etc... wives definitely not happy etc. I didn't get much sleep but my wife and kids did. Visibility was nothing during the night, we had no idea what these guys were going through. There were too many boats in a small area, as for scope etc they used, who knows, I doubt if they did! It was indeed a mess though. I had 22 lb Bruce on 35 feet of 3/8 chain and 300 ft 5/8 three strand nylon holding a C&C 30 in 35 feet of water. I even carry extra anchor chain and rode...but figured I had this one covered off, and did. Have had people say " you won't need that". My response " you'll see that". Have since then added 80 feet of 5/16 chain to the boat ( additional 40 ft for each anchor), but not always required. Here in Nova Scotia you can be the only boat in a very protected spot...then only the boat length of 3/8 with rode. Armstrong windlass. Thanks again.
Just discovered you. I REALLY like these anchor videos. I've learned more in the little bit of time watching yours than any other channel. Thank you! -Nick
You Guys are some of the Best, when it comes to Proper Information, On Sailboat Specifications. You try to cover Everything! So much Great information, to make your Sailing ⛵️ a Safe & Enjoyable Experience! Thanks 🙏🏻 So Much ✌🏻❤️🍀👍🏻
The tip with the piece of chain between ropes either side for lifting a stuck anchor at its neck is superb, never even thought of it. We have a little white fender to use attached at the front of the anchor... I reckon it's less likely someone will try moor to it also ;)
Just signed up as a Patreon as I've been asking supposedly knowledgeable old boys at the sailing club for anchor info and they can't agree on anything, your video has answered all my questions comprehensibly. Thanks to Chris too, I've ordered the correct chain.
Wow! Chris is a boss! Thanks guys, iv spent hours looking at chains and materials, SS spercifically and iv learnt more in the last 15 minutes of your video listening to your convo with Chris. Thank you so much. Rich and K, s/y sea la Vie x
Have to say guy's probably the best YT video on anchor technique, chain types and chain performance/characteristics. A lot of work and research in this video that is not in any other. 35 Years anchoring with a Bruce, CQR, Danforth and Breton with various boats. We have come to the following thoughts: Any thing with the title plough is aptly named. Forget the Bruce, CQR and Breton if you want to sleep soundly at anchor without the alarm going off as they just fail to reset if conditions get intense. Mantis? Overpriced (Held with bolts, really? ) as are most modern designs but set well they do perform. Rocknor? Fine, redesign your bow gear to take the shank shape. The spade? Seems to do well in various bed types but that single bolt from the spade to shank....? It's important to remember the anchor holds the chain and the chain holds the boat. Look at big, really big commercial vessels. Comparatively small anchors but big chain and loads of it? So what do we use? 2 x Oversize Manson Supreme, but with a Mantis swivel that illuminates that bending moment on the swivel and shank that other swivels just transfer to the anchor. Manson has a rock slot for those awkward anchorages. A short addition to your rig in chain allows you to use the slot that self trips the anchor; no stuck anchor! No trip line to wrap around the boat overnight as you turn, or someone to moore to. (Yes we have had that!!!) In the end it's technique, but all anchors are not equal. Great video awaiting the follow up. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Thanks guys, I agree with the plough analogy, they are well named! Thats why we're looking to ditch the Delta at some point. It has been an education sailing in clear waters though, i know now exactly when my delta is set solid. If it's slightly canted to one side and the stock isn't horizontal to the seabed and on or near it, it's not set well enough for a big wind shift or storm. If it's like it was in the video then it's not going anywhere. I think I'ld be nervous of using one in water where you cant dive on the anchor now, you cant tell how well it's set without looking.
Thanks for Good info video, Have cruised worldwide in 3 different boats over 30 years ,always carried a CQR and a Danforth if one wasn’t suited by the bottom the other would be ,never got into any trouble .technique,quality ground tackle,and good scope just as important.
Very useful video thanks! Our Gunfleet 58 was fitted with a Lewmar CQR. I have been in scuba kit and watched it drag time after time in various sea bed conditions......It was a nightmare. We fitted and oversize Mantus anchor a couple of years ago. It's big, bites first time and lets me sleep soundly!
Wow!! about time someone that has showed the correct way to anchor a boat. I despair when I see people laying an anchor particularly using the electric to pay out the chain. Steve I always had since watching your videos been impressed with your methods etc. but this video set you above all the other UA-cam folks... Great video!!
Good ideas Used to love my mizzen when anchored in heavy winds i tend to put my foot hard on the anchor chain when pulling her in as you can really feel what the anchor is doing through the chain vibrations
What a great video, very well presented I agree with everything. Cromox G6 (318LN) plus Ultra stainless 35kg with the anchor twister -brilliant, but avoid rocks! I can never understand the rusty old garbage on the front of some very expensive boats. I'll be punished for saying that; bit rusty, just get it re-galvanised! I normally work to 6:1 scope because of the big tides in the UK - nothing in the Med by comparison. With most modern windlass's you can only set and leave the clutch - your setup, which is still available, is very useful and practical and saves the batteries. What a shame all boats don't come with a samson post, most don't even have fairleads or suitable cleats so setting a bridle becomes a challenge. I made lots of notes but you covered and answered everyone. I bet there are a lot of sailors gnashing their teeth at this, including that Beneteau. Look forward to the anchor assessment.
Good rule of thumb, never completely rely on your electronics to always be 100% accurate. Always assume "general area" rather than pinpoint accuracy. GPS satellites can sometimes be inaccurate, depending on solar activity, auroras, and magnetic field radiation. As well as needing a software update occasionally etc. When i anchor i like to stand at the bow and take note of my position using landmarks, bouys, other boats etc to determine whether or not i may drag a little or staying put, once my anchor is set.
Another great video, we have the Delta, also oversized, and so far not had a problem with dragging or being stuck in all conditions, our back-up is a Fortress, again oversized, and that works well as when we were in Sweden we used it all the time with their preferred mooring system.
POV: You're a college student in a totally landlocked state in America whose boating experience is limited to kayaking with your brother in a small lake near your hometown. It's 11:25 at night, you've just finished your paper, and for reasons you can't fully explain, you've decided to learn everything possible about sailing a boat from a person in... Oceania?
Steve, in the past five years GoPro and such have enabled many more empirical studies of anchors at work on sea beds, if you have not yet searched UA-cam, there are several studies of anchors. In conclusion, for a Best in a specific area there will be one, but a choice of three is where many end up, eg to set Barhamin. We do: one size over rating (we are 13T, 50 foot, fin keel) a Spade, a 40kg CQR and a Kedge.
Very informative, thank you! I enjoyed this immensely. I need to invest in some good Cromox stainless chain. Good ground tackle is never anything to scrimp on. As for anchors, my Mantus has never let me down. Love that anchor! I may upgrade my kedge to the same thing.
Watch your hands and fingers while washing/cleaning chain. Do not ever go so close to the moving chains, sprockets and other motorized units! Since it has very high gear ratio, it will hardly feel getting your fingers off of your hand in case a cloth or sponge gets caught. Thank you for very informative video, though! Be safe and keep up the great work!
Hi Steve, I did watch the video at the time, but your videos are worth watching more than once, on a riding sail I have a delta on my Sigma 33C on the Scottish West Coast, and its great! Not only does she not blow off much but that means no heading over either, made from fairly stiff sail cloth with broom handle between the clews to keep it open. I'll see if I have a picture to send over. All the best guys.
yes I do think they are a good idea. We are finding with the extra solar panels aft and the full summer bimini that we dont ride at anchor too much now though. A good thing because I think fitting one with all that gubbins in the way might be tricky!
No he was talking about 316Ti, that is the material the chain that came with Fair Isle was made out of. It is better than straight 316 in this application but not as good as 316L when it comes to warmer waters. 316L is only bettered by 318 or ‘duplex steel’ that is the material we went with on our new Cromox chain
Thank you for the reply. This “ANSI” nonsense naming scheme just doesn’t cut it, let me explain: 316 - can be DIN/EN rating 1.4401 which has just 2% Of Mo (same as Ti which is NOT suitable for all applications) - if it is 1.4436 it has 2.8% Mo which IS suitable for all aplications! 316L -1.4404 has 2% of Mo NOT suitable for all applications -1.4432 has 2.8% of Mo which IS suitable for all aplications! 316Ti -1.4571 has 2% of Mo NOT suitable for all applications CroMax chains: -1.4404 = 2% Mo NOT suitable for all applications -1.4462 “Duplex” = 3% Mo IS suitable for all applications -1.4507 “SuperDuplex” = 3.5% Mo IS suitable for all applications Good luck to all when buying the damn chain 🙂
Steve, I think you're spot on in mentioning Spade and Ultra as good choices. Ultra's look perfect on the front of new Hallberg-Rassys - all shiny to go with the polished fittings. A Spade will look perfect on the front of our new Garcia Exploration. Being able to separate the shank from the base with the Spade is handy, if tucking it away somewhere on-board is necessary. The main problem with an Ultra is that they're a bit obvious when gift wrapped and sitting under a Christmas tree. ;-) Oh, and their price is a bit of a problem, too, hence the importance of them being a gift.
I use a Mantus Anchor 45lbs with ACCO G4 High Test Galvanized Chain and a snubber of 25feet of 3/4 3-strand New England Nylon tied on with a rolling hitch. In Florida stainless chain available don't last long, so galvanized it is. This is used on a 35 foot Island Packet Sailboat. For Tropical Storms, also have a Mantus 106 Lbs anchor.
You need to have the right stainless steel chain. There are several different grade of steel with different strengths. Check out www.cromox-us.com or www.ketten-waelder.de. The site is of course also in English. Probably the fastest growing brand. Almost no marketing, all by word of mouth. Absolute experts in chain making especially the welds which is where most others fail.
I fitted a Rocna anchor on my 40,000 pound 53 foot patch five years ago. In looking over my ships log, I anchored just over 120 times… Everything from overnight to as long as a couple weeks in one spot. I found that it sets very quickly. I have dragged twice with this anchor and I'm certain in both instances any other anchor would've dragged in similar circumstances. One incident was only a few centimeters of sand over shale and the anchor wouldn't grab at all. The second instance was an anticipated storm that was very late in arriving and was almost exactly 180° opposite of how the boat was lying. I had about 100 m of chain out in only about 6m of water, but as we charged from one extent of the anchor range to the other, 200 m, We had to be moving at 2 to 3 knots. When we started the engine and took in the rode, the anchor was in a bowl of grass and debris close to a meter in diameter. There were perhaps 20 other boats in the anchorage and to my knowledge everyone dragged in these conditions. The only criticism I've ever heard of a Rocna that is it's inability to set in a rapid 180° wind change. From my experience I think this is a fair assessment. While I’m very satisfied with the Rocna, if I was to purchase another anchor now I probably would get a mantis or perhaps the spade that you were considering. I would also advise you to look at the mantis swivel as it is very well-designed and appears extremely strong. I am in complete and utter envy of your stainless steel chain! Each time it's come time to replace my galvanized chain, I've had some difficulty with the expense. I also have a minor castling problem with the galvanized chain piling up in the anchor locker. Also certain that stainless steel is a joy to clean! Perhaps, the only downside to stainless steel is an incident happened to me in the BVIs 25 years ago or so. The boat I had chartered had a stainless steel rode. But when the windless failed, it was quite a job recovering very slippery stainless anchor chain even with zero wind and current. One last point, I've been very happy using an 8 mm 3-ply nylon braided line for my snubber. Even with a 20 ton vessel with a lot of windage, it has never failed me. I especially like it's spring-like effect, it's practically illuminates and absorbs all jerking motion! I also use a rolling hitch to attach this snubber since I've never found another device that doesn't harm the galvanized coating on the chain. I can't remember anchoring in any conditions worse than about 40 knots and perhaps 1 m waves through the anchorage,so perhaps it night fail in extreme conditions. The 8 mm snubber takes a beating and i replace it perhaps twice per year.
There’s no question that the Rocna is one of the best anchors out there, it’s large surface area and concave shape give it excellent holding power. It’s exactly that 180 degree reset that’s the Achilles heel. In sand you may have been fine, but if there’s sticky mud / grass to bunch up it the roll bar the tip will rise out of the substrate as it turns and you’re left with an anchor that’s tilted up and very unlikely to reset. Other anchors probably wouldn’t do much better but I’ld be interested to know if the Rocna Vulcan without the roll bar would Fair better? Your 8mm snubber is pushing it a bit! I know why you’ve done it, to get the stretch early on, my snubber is probably a bit the other way, but Fair Isle is 26 tons and I’ve given some extra stretch with the mooring spring type rubber in there. I guess if you want your snubber to be short then thinner rode is needed but I put out at least 10 meters so there’s decent stretch there. Whatever works!
Nice informative video with good audio. It’s funny how most anchor videos are in warm clear water conditions. I never even thought of diving on an anchor in murky muddy cold English waters! It’s also interesting how methods have changed. We always used to use the water depth ( or expected in tidal) times the desired scope . The height of the roller was NEVER in that calculation , maybe just added at the end once only. All the old guides only used the water depth , but after a poor rewrite of the navy guide it got misinterpreted to add the roller height. This means you can have double the scope out than we used to , not surprising ‘modern anchors’ hold so well when your using double the scope. Oh the calculation difference , take a 10’ roller HT in 10’ of water. At 3:1 old school was 30’ of chain out , modern 60’ of chain! Ignoring the holding difference the swinging room is way different., this is a real problem in tight tidal anchorages you get in Uk where the 60’ rode boat is going to be all over the 30’ ride boat when the tide changes 180 degs. So, many people don’t question the modern anchoring guides , they all copy each other any way but it’s a real problem . Boat ideally have similiar scope out in crowed anchorages. Cheers Warren
Ha! yes I had 30 years sailing the East coast and never once diving on an anchor, little point as the v is is so low! It's a bit of an eye opener out here when you can see what the anchors are doing!!
The power of Fair Isle and of UA-cam. I have just bought a Dehler 37 CWS (1994). The seller advised me I needed a new anchor chain. After scouring Jimmy Green, I remembered this video of yours Steve. Absolutely priceless. Thank you. Did I pick it up right. Don’t buy a stainless steel chain for the Med? As it gets attacked in Med waters? I will watch the video again!
Don’t buy anything other than a 318 Cromox chain if you want a SS chain and you’re going to warm water. You just need to work out if the extra cost is worth it for you, it certainly was for us, very glad we went than way & largely thanks to Chris’s expertise, I was about to wimp out and go galvanised!
I had thought the bruce or claw style anchor was the best version until I hung the bruce anchor on an oilfield pipe and could not get it off as the curve of the bruce fit around the pipe in a twisted fashion. I have also been told and it makes sense that the tip of a bruce is too rounded for areas where there is a lot of vegetation or weeds. So I went with a Rocna as a replacement that doesn't have that curve area to wrap around a pipe and a sharper point for vegetation. I also now always set out a trip line with a fender rather than something that looks like a mooring ball shown in this video. The concern of a rock or mud getting caught in the hoop and allowing a drag I suppose could be a possibility but then for any style anchor a shape attached to it would defeat its design and let it drag. Regardless the choice of an anchor must assure you that under conditions that normally change like wind, tide, swell, and current you are absolutely confident the anchor will reset itself quickly.
I'm sure you notice the difference going to a new generation anchor. you can get CQR's - Bruces & the like to work most of the time but it all becomes a lot easier with a decent anchor!
Thanks for the information I found it very interesting. I especially liked the ways of in jamming your anchor with the rope and chain as I lost mine a few month ago on a reef. I only have a 4.3M boat so not a big anchor.
As always a well done video. A quite interesting video series on an anchors holding power and resetting ability here on UA-cam was done by SV Panope. After much consideration I went with a SARCA Excel Anchor.
Ditto, I used SV Panope's test as the basis for selecting my anchor (Mantus). Even though the Mantus tested at the top for setting and resetting, he rejected it because he thought the shank was a bit to light for his boat and side loading may bend it. My boat is around the same length and a third of his weight, so I wasn't at all concerned and it hasn't been an issue. Over three years it's proven to be extremely reliable, it sets and resets quickly and it has great holding power down here in Tasmania's roaring forties. Over these years of sets it's only failed twice, spearing a scallop shell with the tip will do that, as will dropping it onto another patch of scallop shells when you move to reset it.
I've really been enjoying my 85lb Mantus tied to a Mantus swivel and mated to 200' of G4 Chain. All snubbed by a Mantus bridle snubber. Holds my Hylas 46 like a rock star!
We are on a 52 feet boat, weighing 26 ton approx. We use a 55kg Rocna Vulcan, which holds fantastically well, doesn't suffer from the poor galvanising like the Spade, and also allows for a more realistic scope in a tight anchorage. It held quite happily in an estuary with 38 knots blowing and both river current and tidal change seemed to have no effect on it.
Good to hear. I never hear bad things about how well Rocnas hold, as I said in the video it's just the roll bar that slightly puts me off. If the Vulcan still has the holding power of the normal Rocna but no roll bar, then that's got to be good!
@@svfairisle We also have a 35kg Spade in our lazerette, which was bought as it sits in there nicely in two pieces (and just in case the Vulcan was not up to the job.) Both were new 7 months ago, the Rocna Vulcan that sits on the bow all the time looks as good as new, the Spade in the locker that has never been in the sea has white corrosion marks on it. Can't see them ever been swapped !
On my previous boat (28', under 5 tons) I got a Fortress, 6kg - since there was no windlass, an easy pull was import. However it also held amazingly well. I once dropped it with 15m chain + 60m rode into 50m depth (yes, less than 2:1) in 2 knots current and to my surprise it held fast.
Yes the fluke (fortress/danforth) type anchors will hold on very short scopes, they don't need the shank to be down parallel to the sea bed so if the chain/rode lifts it slightly, as it will on a short scope, then it's no problem (up to a point!) the Fortress can be set at a steeper angle to make this even more effective. Fluke anchors are great in soft mud too, they have good surface area.
I love my kellet (27 sailboat) utilizing a 30' 1/4" chain & 300' 1/2" nylon line in a tight moorage. But I do fully realize, in a big blow, the rode can go taught and make the 20lb weight useless. Going to try adding two 10lb weights to it next summer.
I like my Rocna Vulcan. No roll bar so it's easily compatible with a bow sprit. I've had zero issues with mine but can't say that I've personally tested it near its limits.
As to anchor choice, we love our Ultra anchor and it would go well with the stainless steel chain. Our setup is 60 kg Ultra, with the Ultra swivel and 100m of 12mm galvanised G70 chain on a 28t / 17m mono.
There are some reports of Rocna anchors not resetting on a 180 degree shift. I did not feel confident knowing this, though many cruisers in my area trust these anchors, I do not not. I went with a Spade S120(55lb) as my current primary(will eventually become a backup and replaced with a S160 or S180. I've talked to a few cruisers who are currently cruising very high latitudes, all of which swear by Spade. I've talked with cruisers in the south pacific who are currently cruising with Spades and have zero issues. It is incredibly difficult to find cruisers with Spade anchors, but the ones who do have it, rarely have issues with setting their anchor. I cruise the PNW and so far out of all the times i've anchored, never had isssue with it setting or resetting. I've been in blows up to 45knots with my anchor and have yet to drag.
I agree the Rocna, although in many respects excellent, does have that flaw. The Spade is superb and came down to the final two on my list.It's not the one I chose though! I'm working on the 'which anchor' video now.
That was a nicely put together informative video on this important topic. So well done, its appreciated. I also liked the use of the diagrams as I think that was really helpful. The discussion on the use of stainless steel vrs galvanised chain, pros and cons including consideration of cost vrs the value of one's boat etc was also really good to learn about. In respect of anchor types, as you correctly note, most people seem to have their own preference for an anchor type and the usual candidates seem to pop up in the comments on this. If you are at all considering a spade type anchor rather than a Rocna with the hoop, based on my past 5 years experience on various boats I have sailed on and anchored in a variety of bottom substrate and weather conditions, my personal recommendation is the Australian designed and made Sarca Excel. There are numerous videos and reviews on line regarding the excellence of this anchor. Cost is comparable to pretty much most anchors. Sure there is the issue of getting it shipped from Australia to wherever you might be when you decide to change but regardless of this, it should be there on your list of anchors for consideration I would suggest.
Another informative video Steve and I already know you’ll have a Stainless Ultra on Fair Isle soon! I would definitely say a SS chain and SS Ultra would be the best set-up for most conditions. With regards to the Rocna, which we have and absolutely love, I would say that the roll bar actually works to you advantage as it stops the anchors getting stuck in between rocks which many anchor shapes are prone to doing. We have a Rocna 33 and we stuck fast with our 24 ton boat AND an 58 foot yacht which had slipped anchor, lost his engine and needed to raft to us and our anchor held us both solidly. A real testament to the holding power of the Rocna. That said, my wife is never out of the locker when our chain piles up!
Ha! Yes I think the Ultra is at the top of the list, the bank balance would need to recover from the shock of the chain first though! Kudos to your wife for sorting the anchor locker though, the only reason Judy agreed to us forking out for stainless was to avoid that!
Good rant. I dont really like the rear transome. Have you ever been to a marina and had to sleep next to one? They are noisy. The waves bash up underneath.
great video, best I've seen about s/s chain. How long does the Waelder chain last in 'hot' water? If 316 can corrode in 3 months, whats the life span of the Waelder? TIA aha , might have found the answer...from Aust Cromox web site FAQs...Stainless steels are generally regarded as seawater resistant with a PRE-value of at least 33. The cromox Duplex material 1.4462 ( AISI 318LN ) has a PRE-value of 35 and is therefore seawater resistant up to 94°F.
These plastic chain marker could be a problem. See this: Crevice corrosion (CC) is a form of localized corrosion that occurs within crevices and other shielded areas where a small volume of a stagnant solution is present. Such crevices can be formed at metal/metal or metal/non-metal junctions, such as those associated with gaskets, valve seats, rivet and bolt heads and lap joints, as well as under surface deposits (i.e., corrosion products, sand and dirt) or marine biofouling. Crevice corrosion is mainly observed on passive metals and alloys covered with protective oxide films, such as stainless steels, Ti alloys, and Ni-base alloys immersed in aerated aqueous environments containing Cl− ions (e.g., sea and brackish water). May be if you install it using silicone you can prevent moisture between the two surfaces.
Lizards aboard old sailing ships. They are small strops wire or hemp,used with ships head sails . Down-hauls use hemp lizards, seized to Hanks at intervals down the luff of head sails, to prevent the down-haul blowing about. A bowline lizard [wire] would be part of a bowline bridal use to keep taught the weather leech of the sail when close-hauled . So would not a wire strop be of use to weight anchor? Jacktar
My rule of thumb is one cinder block for every 10 knots of wind expected. I bind them together with parachute cord and drop them over the side. I've never dragged more than a few miles when using a 1:2 scope on my S&S 42' with less than 5 kts of wind. (OK, just kidding.) Very good presentation. It was thorough and easy to understand! What would you do if the the wind was forecast to increase and the boater who anchored in front of you got in his dinghy to go ashore for the night?
Thank you for the great information. It’s given me a lot to think about. Doesn’t the height of your Sampson post weaken it? I would think it would be much stronger if it was lower to the deck.
Thanks for that the info on the chain was especially helpful to me at least. I personally would recommend the Rocna but as a Kiwi I might be a bit biased.😁
The thing is Bryan I've been to New Zealand, the home of bungy jumping! You guys are all dare devils I wouldn't put it past you to invent an anchor that drags at 3am just to make things more fun! :)
Call me old fashioned, Ultra and Rocna are great, but always keep a good sized old "fisherman" aboard. Even an Ultra will not find a way to bite if you have heavy growth of kelp, sea grass, weed. New designs are made for the cruising charter "industry." Their routes always seem to have lovely sand to drop the hook into. But, great video, yet again. Really well put together, great info.
hello there. thank you for this video. two things. first, you asked for feedback. I trust Manson Supreme after 7 years of full-time anchoring in heavy weather in the Med and Atlantic. second, do you have a contact Welder in Germany?
Our Rocna saved our (_*_) this early spring. Our weather app went off and told us we were going to be receiving 65 mph winds (northerlies as we are in Florida). seemed to be holding very well. Then out of the blue our weather app went off and said we were now under tornado warning and two had been spotted in our area. (Dunedin Florida). sure enough the tornado gave us a direct hit. We had 120 foot of chain out on our Rocna and as a back up anchor we had a 25 pound Danforth with 45 foot chain and 75 foot of rope. Our boat spun around in circles eight times and dragged 600 yards. It was the most incredible thing you could think probably be described as nothing less than violent. All the other boats around us ended up on the shore. Our boat,,,,, lives to see another day. She has also survived the hurricane Irma in Texas. I would highly suggest getting this anchor. And in 35 kn of wind when it changes a 180° direction our anchor grabs immediately. May be slipping the length of the anchor once or twice. She always seems to immediately grab. I know others that have this anchor and are equally as impressed. That being said! Thank you so much for the amazing video.
Yes there's no doubt that the Rocna is a great anchor. It's got great holding power and sets fast, it also resets really well, up there with the best. Rocnas probably get the most love from owners of any anchor out there which counts for a lot. Having an anchor you can depend on is crucial for your nerves as a live-aboard I think! If you've seen the latest episodes though you'll see I've gone for an Ultra. From the research I've done I do think this surpasses the Rocna at least on paper. I'm testing it now and will produce a video just on anchors when I'm done. No matter what though you're fine with your Rocna!
Recently I actually seen a video where the Rocna anchor had a rock wedged in it. It was one another selling show here on UA-cam. The anchor does have flaws, but for me, that’s why I getting a really good back up anchor as well LOL. Funny that you decided to use an ultra as well. That is going to be my next anchor. For sure, without a doubt.
If you want to have a ratio of 7:1 for example, you set it on that ratio with the chain only or you do 6:1 with chain and the las fraction to get 7:1 includes the snobber's length?
The snubber length will be part of the scope and affect the angle at the anchor so it counts towards getting you chosen ratio. Just remember that with certain anchors, and/or if you have switched to a smaller gauge stronger test chain, it will be lighter and affect the catenary as you set. So if you add the snubber after then you may still need more chain out than you think to set well.
Good video and highly informative but if I might add a small point. Should you decide to fit a swivel, never attach it straight to the anchor shank as they are not good at taking a side load when the anchor resets in tide or wind. Fit a large bow shackle or a few links of chain between the shank and swivel to allow for articulation.
Lets say that you buy a boat being a mono or multi hull, if the anchor chain is "only" 75 meters but you prefer a minimum of 100 meter chain, can you add the (for you) required extra meters or do you have to go buy a new chain? Thanks 🧐
You can get joining links yes but they will always be the weakest link even in a standard chain. for a high test chain or Cromox chain like we have it will be much weaker than the rest of the chain and will be more liable to corrosion. The other option is to splice some rode on the end. A splice that doubles back is stronger than one that is woven into the chain which I always thought was a bit counter intuitive. You will need to make sure your gypsy is okay with both of these options.
The Beneteau at the beginning of your video is doing what every (French) boat seems to be doing in the Med. Creep in as close to someone else as you can,. drop your anchor and give or take 10/20m of chain over the front of the boat, close it all down, and have drinks. The few times (yes, only just got started) we anchored and I backed down on mine after setting with ~5:1 scope (on chain) I got looked at real weird. Not due to the scope, but due to the backing down slowly and sitting for a few minutes with our engine at 2000rpm to make sure we weren't going to go anywhere.
When looking at your anchor would you keep your shackle as is our swap it around so the round part is thru the anchor. If it gets heavy side load as it is now it could pry the shackle apart and separate from from the anchor.
I think you’ve got confused. I would never fit a shackle the wrong way around to an anchor. If I were using shackles they would be fitted the right way around, and if the anchor didn’t allow a shackle to be fitted correctly I would use two. The shackle you see in the shot with the anchor in the sea bed is on the front of the anchor. It is what I use to hold the anchor up tight against the bow sprit and what I connect the trip buoy to if needed. With the anchors I’ve shown in the videos I have a swivel with articulation, this helps with prising loads but doesn’t dispense with the problem completely so you have to be careful with what you fit.
@@svfairisle yes it’s the under water shot when you dive on it. I assumed the chain was buried and that was the back. You videos are very good I enjoy watching them. We just bought the 60kg ultra so I was watching old videos while waiting for our anchor to arrive which came today, get to install it tomorrow. I went with the mantis swivel but may spend the big $$ for the ultra swivel so my wife doesn’t have to worry about flipping it over. We could have gotten away with one size smaller but I’ll sleep well at night with the 60kg
@@svfairisle we just replaced our severely undersized 60lb Bruce with a 132lb Ultra, Previous owners raced the boat a lot and were always at the dock so they wanted light weight. I want to sleep at night knowing we are not going anywhere!!!! Even for a lunch hook a 60lb anchor on a 60,000lb boat is just way too small. The biggest issue I have found is coming up with a shackle that fits thru the hole on the ancho that comes close to the chain strength. The best i could find so far is a 12mm Wichard with a 4580WLL and 13220 breaking load. Its pretty close to the chain but the chain is still stronger.
Excllent video, thank you - specially the chain piece. Question: What would be the life span of a Walder cromox 318 LN chain in tropical waters? Since it costs 2.5 times the good galvanized equivalent (Maggi), would it last 2.5 times longer? I meain, if you have to buy galvanized chain every 3 years this would be a wash, right?
That's a good question, this standard of stainless hasn't been around for long enough to know for sure, but if you look after the chain (keeping a good chain locker is key to that) it should easily last the 2.5 x longer than a Maggie's chain to make it cost effective. It's a tough decision I know because of the big initial outlay, but for us getting good new chain in remote parts of the world may be difficult (and Maggies went bust so you struggle to get good chain even here!) plus if you did go through say 2 galvanised chains in 15 years maybe with a regavanising in between even if you could calculate you've saved a small amount of money on the whole deal, you've had to deal with flaky, rusty, muddy, non-stacking galvanised chain for 15 years!
I got it the wrong way round. SS Cromox 318 for warmer waters. I’m afraid I can only afford galvanised for now. However we will move to warmer waters in 2022, Covid permitting, so I will buy Cromox 318 then.
Great review and share. I do agree with you on your plough comment. I am replacing mine now with an Ultra although I nearly went for a Manson Supreme which I think is a great anchor having used it on a friend’s boat but the Ultra hasn’t got that roller half ring thing and to me is far superior to most on the market and unbeatable on the ‘add-ons’ (swivel, anchor recovery ring...) which are specifically designed for the Ultra. I have a classic looking yacht like Fair Isle and that stainless steel anchor and chain combo just got to look fab on them...until you get couple scratches :-( but hey can’t win on every single point ;-D
I'ld be interested to know how you get on with the Ultra. It's very high I my list, I just wish they'd put a slot in the shank rather than a hole so you can get the proper sized shackle on the right way around!
@@svfairisle true you are right in regards to the shank. Because of the COVID 19 the refit is now delayed so could be a wee while (3 - 4 months) before I can give a real life feedback on the Ultra but if I get someone else who has used it extensively I will get them to share their feedback with you. ;-)
Thanks for sharing! Very interesting that you have to have Duplex instead of 316L in the tropics. What is the price difference between the two? I know since I have worked in the oil industry(logistic & controlling) that the best stainless steel you get from Germany or Sweden, and occasional from France. But stay away from any "certified" metal from China and Russia/Sovjet area. As the guy said, you never know what you get, except that you don't get quality.
Yes it was news to me too! You wouldn't think water temperature could make such a difference but it does. The Cromox chain is half as much again in cost over 316L , but it's not just superior corrosion resistance you're getting. It's a steel that doesn't case harden like Austenitic steel can and the Cromox chain from Ketten Wålder is properly welded. It's the welds that suffer crevice corrosion. That's what happened to my old chain.
It doesn't have to, you can have a SS anchor on a galvanised chain and visa versa. Most people have stainless shackles in systems with galvanised anchors or chains or both. It's the zinc on the galvanised metals that will suffer. On the anchor no great problem as there's a lot of it, on the chain, well the closest links may start to suffer & you may have to chop them off every couple of years but shouldn't be worse than that. Of course all stainless is the best option as you say & the Ultra is an excellent anchor so yes I think you may be onto something!
I like the look of it, certainly for our second anchor as its sharp so great for hard bottoms. We have the Bugle for that presently, but I'm not sure it has enough surface area to hold a boat like ours in anything soft.
Good choice in boat and anchor! I spent yesterday on board an Amel, a very different boat from ours in style but massively capable blue water cruiser and with some really cool practical features, I didn’t realise quite how well sorted Amels are. So I’m not surprised you have good taste in anchors. Similar to the Amel I think the more you look at an Ultra the more you’re going to like it! Seems like design genius to me and so far I can’t find another anchor to touch it, still researching!!
@@svfairisle In 2016 I desperately tried to buy a Hans Christian 44 pilothouse ketch, on lake Ontario in Canada. It was so nice. Once called UBU when it was in San Diego. Slowly it was through years of being tied to a dock, becoming a sad story. Yours seems to be very well cared for. Stay safe S/V Albedo, currently in Gibraltar
Really good useful video. BTW Savvy Navvy are adding an AIS link next year. I have an Ipad Pro and find that Navionics drains the battery faster than I can charge it (I leave it plugged in to a 3 amp socket). Does anyone have any idea how to sort this out. I have tried dimming etc.
Have a look and see if the USB charger you have is giving the full 5.1volts, some don't. If it is delivering 3A at 5.1v then thats 15.3Watts which would be more than enough for your ipad unless there's something wrong with it(unlikely)
Dear Steve and Judy, Congrats on such a great series...just finished the Delos one..excellent. I have a similar boat with bowsprit and whisker stays etc and would greatly appreciate details of your triangular anchor pivot system if you don't mind sharing in a tech corner. Much obliged and fair winds Fairisle!
Hello and thanks for the thorough information. Would you have a link where to get the coloured rubber makers fot the chain? I’ve so far only found brittle 2-piece plastic “click-on” ones.
Hi jan, yes I know what you mean our old chain came with the hard plastic ones & they eventually crack and fall out. Sorry though don't have a link as I bought them from a chandler in Cartagena and then some more from a chandler in Sardinia so they are around, they look longer than the hard versions when I first bought them I took an one in and though they were the wrong size but theyre not.
Nice job Steve! Very good point brought up by your engineer , and that is the money spent on gadgets and gismos verses the money spent on safety gear, and in this case the best rode available. I have always been amazed how my undersized anchor holds Jennifer Marie,(Tartan34c) But Im just a inshore day cruiser. Best wishes to you and Judy!
An exceptionally good video!
As I’m a sailing nerd with a lot of real life experience, I pretty much always find seriously misleading info in this type of content. In this case, nothing of that, whatsoever. This video explores the right topics, draws the right conclusions, explains them correctly and doesn’t omit anything needed in this context. Applause!
I totally agree about the anchor comments too, by the way. Rockna is a great anchor, but has a weakness with resetting after a windshift. I’ve experienced it myself. Other anchors with an arch seem to share this weakness. I can’t say for sure, but my impression is that the arch collects seaweed etc, which changes the balance and drag of the anchor, so the tip is held off the bottom. The tip wasn’t covered. It just didn’t grip. Spade is my clear favourite. The galvanised one especially, but I’d love to have the aluminium one, as I sail a weight sensitive catamaran. Maybe I’ll go for an oversized alu...
Well thank you Stein, praise indeed!
I second that very much. Hard to find solid info, experience and proper analysis you can trust. Lots of consideration - and relevant questions - seems to go into these videos. Thanks a lot Sailing Fair Isle - you got a new subscriber ;-)
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Westley Alfonso instablaster =)
@Brecken Stanley I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
This is one of the best, most complete anchoring videos out there. The worst part of anchoring is that many don't know how to do it, and put everyone else at risk due to their ignorance.
Well yes that was the motivation for making the video
@@svfairisleYou've earned another sub. It's hard finding informative, educational channels out here. At least ones that aren't laden with drama and reality show nonsense. You guys do it right.
Wow I’m not even a boat owner but this is one of the most fascinating videos I’ve ever seen
Small correction at 19:01 Mr Chris meant that A2 is 304
One of the best anchoring videos on UA-cam. Love that you got information on the actual materials in chain.
Another brilliant video as usual Steven.
I love the details you go into and the way you get the experts opinions on everything. 👌👌👌👌
A very good video about anchoring. Nice to see one that focuses on the REAL issue of anchoring: proper technique and the system. I have fairly extensive experience and some suggestions for your presentation, however. You have what appears to be an Ideal heavy duty windlass that may be able to withstand the stresses of backing down and breaking out the anchor. Most of the folks who watch this video more likely have a less robust recreational windlasses that will eventually (soon most likely) fail if used to hold the tension of back down and break out. You mentioned that you are planning a chain stopper installation and I would recommend you put that as a priority if you want to save your windlass. Although you appropriately gently back down it is still an enormous pressure and breaking out a stuck anchor by driving over it can exert destructive forces to most recreational windlasses. All this can be avoided with a chain stopper or by using a snubber (a chain hook makes this a lot easier). I think you should amend this video or put a caveat about putting shock loads on most windlasses. Don't ask how I learned this. I have rebuilt several of them.
I also agree with your assessment of the Rocna. I saw a guy sawing the roll bar off his $800 version after realizing the thing had a penchant for collecting the bottom and failing to reset. Every time I hear some yachtie talk about "next generation" anchors or simply buying "one size larger" I hope they stay tied to a dock somewhere because they are repeating marketing talk, not anything factual. Part of anchoring should be situational awareness and when things get snotty, taking action to move while you still have time or prepping a second anchor is much more important to your survival than what brand of anchor you have down. I know a group of boats that were lost in an open roadstead in Cost Rica last year because some of them hunkered down behind their gear rather than take to sea as they should have when the surf came up. Some of them were unable to get their hooks up when the surf started and several ended up on the beach. I have always had a second anchor ready to go when things are getting iffy and want a primary anchor I can get up so I can move. The marketing folks all suggest they can give you an anchor that will "never drag". You have sailed enough to know this is ridiculously untrue and dangerous talk. FWIW. Ray Durkee
Chris was a fascinating chap to listen to so I am very glad that you shared this with us all. I'll be sharing it on my sailing / boating blogs with my fellow boaters.
Yes and he can talk on pretty much any technical subject to do with boats with equal knowledge. A good man to know!
Loved the video. Thanks so much! Always good to have a very clear description and demonstration of how to do things.
Other folks use nylon line for snubber and/or bridle since it can stretch more than other types of line.
2:38 LOL. The Beneteau literally just dropped the anchor and called it done. Amazing that people can get on a boat and have no idea what they're doing.
This type of content sets you apart from the crowd. Well done.
Thank you for an informative and very watchable video. As you have invited feedback I hope my comments will be of some interest. I always use a hollow bar to operate the clutch on the windlass, as this keeps fingers away from danger. Yes I have used my hands but I insist that crew never do. To keep the angle of lift below 11deg I use the formula (depth + height of bow)X4 added to length of boat. The length of boat is significant when this is applied in shallow water. Once anchoring for more than a lunch stop or a swim I always use a snubber. My method of using the snubber is to attach to the chain with a chain hook and lower it to over a meter below the water. I then pay out more chain up to 2/3rds of the depth. I have found this practice (as shown to me by a sailor on an 11 year circumnavigation) keeps the angle of the pull down in all but very severe winds and also allows for rapid escape if necessary. I do not use a chum as it can imprison one in difficult conditions because hauling anchor involves retrieving the chum first. Which anchor? The spade is my choice, which I bought through Calibra Marine Southampton. I sail a 1975 Amel Meltem, she is 18 metric ton, 16 meters with almost 2metres freeboard and currently on the hard in Preveza. Thank you very much for all your efforts to bring us these videos and congratulations on such a beautiful and well found yacht. Best wishes and safe passage.
Hi Niall, thanks for your comments. Interesting with your formula for scope, I haven't heard of that one before. But you're right that the traditional formula doesn't allow for the fact that you don't need as much scope in deeper water as you do in shallow water so that may be a good one.
Regarding the bar for the clutch, the reason I rarely use it is that the temptation to tighten the clutch so there's no slip is too much. If you're hauling the anchor and it's having trouble releasing from the seabed I want the windlass clutch to slip a bit to tell me it's struggling, then I will reposition the boat, maybe over-run the anchor a bit and wait for the release. Nipping the clutch up with the bar means the windlass might be able to pull it out but that's a the risk of straining the windlass. I do this even though I have a hydraulic windlass, it's even more important if you have an electric one.
Good choice with the Amel!
Very informative, the German guy really knows his stuff. I know you don't like roll bars on anchors but we are extremely happy with our Mantus anchor.
Just like you we over specced on size. We have a 46 foot boat and a 39 kilo (85lbs) Mantus. People look at the size of it and we're sure they're sniggering, but the thing is, it goes in every time and more importantly it stays in. Apparently it will reset within 3 metres if there's a wind or current 180 change.
We even had one subscriber who calculated that with all of our 100m out it would hold us in 80 knots, but we're not willing to test his calculations.
Can't beat a big one Baz!
Sailing Fair Isle that's what she said.
@@SailingABSea oh baz! giggle giggle :-))
Very nice information indeed, what most people fail to mention is how well you and your partner work together.
I love your display of intelligence, it makes your videos very interesting, intriguing, rewarding, and a pleasure to view. Your demonstrations are like a picture, they say a 1,000 words. Thank you for the time, effort, and research you put into your post. Stay safe. GOD bless ya’ll.
Thanks for all the information, especially on the types of chain. It is a real eye-opener and is priceless! The diagrams and theory on anchoring technique are just as awesome. Thanks again.
This is an excellent technical video on Anchors, chain and anchoring in general.
Both the quality of the information, and the quality of the production are very high.
Nicely done, we are of the same mindset. I pick a good Anchorage first. If it means an extra hour of choppy sea, so be it. 7-1 generally for me. Never dragged, was taught by a guy that spent 12 years cruising. My fear is everyone around me lol.
We anchored one night in a less than ideal spot....35 feet of water and a little land shelter. Behind me there were 8 boats anchored in a pretty sheltered Cove...with the weather forecast of 35 kts I didn't want to be among them. It was tight in there as it was.
Wind coming up, sun going down, late in the day, I stayed out a bit and anchored. The wind howled, the rain came.
Next morning those boats were in near the beach, near a yacht club, and I said to my wife " in this wind, I wouldn't be bringing the boat in that close for breakfast"... "we will go in when it settles down a bit".
We went in a couple of hours later to learn they were in trouble all night, up running engines, rodes tangled, etc... wives definitely not happy etc. I didn't get much sleep but my wife and kids did. Visibility was nothing during the night, we had no idea what these guys were going through.
There were too many boats in a small area, as for scope etc they used, who knows, I doubt if they did! It was indeed a mess though. I had 22 lb Bruce on 35 feet of 3/8 chain and 300 ft 5/8 three strand nylon holding a C&C 30 in 35 feet of water. I even carry extra anchor chain and rode...but figured I had this one covered off, and did.
Have had people say " you won't need that". My response " you'll see that".
Have since then added 80 feet of 5/16 chain to the boat ( additional 40 ft for each anchor), but not always required. Here in Nova Scotia you can be the only boat in a very protected spot...then only the boat length of 3/8 with rode. Armstrong windlass.
Thanks again.
Heading to Newfoundland south coast this year. Bought a 45lb Rocna and 22lb delta. When we anchor we have to know she's there...and staying there.
I keep 4 anchors ready to go. I call it 'insurance'.
Just discovered you. I REALLY like these anchor videos. I've learned more in the little bit of time watching yours than any other channel.
Thank you!
-Nick
The most beautiful anchor chain I have ever see. Looks nicer than my wedding ring.
You Guys are some of the Best, when it comes to Proper Information, On Sailboat Specifications. You try to cover Everything! So much Great information, to make your Sailing ⛵️ a Safe & Enjoyable Experience! Thanks 🙏🏻 So Much ✌🏻❤️🍀👍🏻
The tip with the piece of chain between ropes either side for lifting a stuck anchor at its neck is superb, never even thought of it. We have a little white fender to use attached at the front of the anchor... I reckon it's less likely someone will try moor to it also ;)
Just signed up as a Patreon as I've been asking supposedly knowledgeable old boys at the sailing club for anchor info and they can't agree on anything, your video has answered all my questions comprehensibly. Thanks to Chris too, I've ordered the correct chain.
Thank you Franco, you’ll love the Cromox chain
Wow! Chris is a boss! Thanks guys, iv spent hours looking at chains and materials, SS spercifically and iv learnt more in the last 15 minutes of your video listening to your convo with Chris. Thank you so much. Rich and K, s/y sea la Vie x
Have to say guy's probably the best YT video on anchor technique, chain types and chain performance/characteristics. A lot of work and research in this video that is not in any other. 35 Years anchoring with a Bruce, CQR, Danforth and Breton with various boats. We have come to the following thoughts: Any thing with the title plough is aptly named. Forget the Bruce, CQR and Breton if you want to sleep soundly at anchor without the alarm going off as they just fail to reset if conditions get intense. Mantis? Overpriced (Held with bolts, really? ) as are most modern designs but set well they do perform. Rocknor? Fine, redesign your bow gear to take the shank shape. The spade? Seems to do well in various bed types but that single bolt from the spade to shank....? It's important to remember the anchor holds the chain and the chain holds the boat. Look at big, really big commercial vessels. Comparatively small anchors but big chain and loads of it? So what do we use? 2 x Oversize Manson Supreme, but with a Mantis swivel that illuminates that bending moment on the swivel and shank that other swivels just transfer to the anchor. Manson has a rock slot for those awkward anchorages. A short addition to your rig in chain allows you to use the slot that self trips the anchor; no stuck anchor! No trip line to wrap around the boat overnight as you turn, or someone to moore to. (Yes we have had that!!!) In the end it's technique, but all anchors are not equal. Great video awaiting the follow up. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Thanks guys, I agree with the plough analogy, they are well named! Thats why we're looking to ditch the Delta at some point. It has been an education sailing in clear waters though, i know now exactly when my delta is set solid. If it's slightly canted to one side and the stock isn't horizontal to the seabed and on or near it, it's not set well enough for a big wind shift or storm. If it's like it was in the video then it's not going anywhere. I think I'ld be nervous of using one in water where you cant dive on the anchor now, you cant tell how well it's set without looking.
Thanks for Good info video, Have cruised worldwide in 3 different boats over 30 years ,always carried a CQR and a Danforth if one wasn’t suited by the bottom the other would be ,never got into any trouble .technique,quality ground tackle,and good scope just as important.
Very useful video thanks! Our Gunfleet 58 was fitted with a Lewmar CQR. I have been in scuba kit and watched it drag time after time in various sea bed conditions......It was a nightmare. We fitted and oversize Mantus anchor a couple of years ago. It's big, bites first time and lets me sleep soundly!
Wow!! about time someone that has showed the correct way to anchor a boat. I despair when I see people laying an anchor particularly using the electric to pay out the chain. Steve I always had since watching your videos been impressed with your methods etc. but this video set you above all the other UA-cam folks... Great video!!
This video is top notch! This is the content that's sorely missing from youtube! Thanks!
Good ideas Used to love my mizzen when anchored in heavy winds i tend to put my foot hard on the anchor chain when pulling her in as you can really feel what the anchor is doing through the chain vibrations
Yet another wonderful introduction from Steve - always so informative, and beautifully produced :-)
What a great video, very well presented I agree with everything. Cromox G6 (318LN) plus Ultra stainless 35kg with the anchor twister -brilliant, but avoid rocks! I can never understand the rusty old garbage on the front of some very expensive boats. I'll be punished for saying that; bit rusty, just get it re-galvanised! I normally work to 6:1 scope because of the big tides in the UK - nothing in the Med by comparison. With most modern windlass's you can only set and leave the clutch - your setup, which is still available, is very useful and practical and saves the batteries. What a shame all boats don't come with a samson post, most don't even have fairleads or suitable cleats so setting a bridle becomes a challenge. I made lots of notes but you covered and answered everyone. I bet there are a lot of sailors gnashing their teeth at this, including that Beneteau. Look forward to the anchor assessment.
Good rule of thumb, never completely rely on your electronics to always be 100% accurate. Always assume "general area" rather than pinpoint accuracy. GPS satellites can sometimes be inaccurate, depending on solar activity, auroras, and magnetic field radiation. As well as needing a software update occasionally etc. When i anchor i like to stand at the bow and take note of my position using landmarks, bouys, other boats etc to determine whether or not i may drag a little or staying put, once my anchor is set.
Another great video, we have the Delta, also oversized, and so far not had a problem with dragging or being stuck in all conditions, our back-up is a Fortress, again oversized, and that works well as when we were in Sweden we used it all the time with their preferred mooring system.
POV: You're a college student in a totally landlocked state in America whose boating experience is limited to kayaking with your brother in a small lake near your hometown. It's 11:25 at night, you've just finished your paper, and for reasons you can't fully explain, you've decided to learn everything possible about sailing a boat from a person in... Oceania?
Steve, in the past five years GoPro and such have enabled many more empirical studies of anchors at work on sea beds, if you have not yet searched UA-cam, there are several studies of anchors. In conclusion, for a Best in a specific area there will be one, but a choice of three is where many end up, eg to set Barhamin. We do: one size over rating (we are 13T, 50 foot, fin keel) a Spade, a 40kg CQR and a Kedge.
Yes there's some good stuff out there. I will be doing my own trials as well . GoPros are cool!
Very informative, thank you! I enjoyed this immensely. I need to invest in some good Cromox stainless chain. Good ground tackle is never anything to scrimp on. As for anchors, my Mantus has never let me down. Love that anchor! I may upgrade my kedge to the same thing.
hugely informative and diagrams are immensely helpful...
Indeed, great video, Fair Isle :)
Watch your hands and fingers while washing/cleaning chain. Do not ever go so close to the moving chains, sprockets and other motorized units! Since it has very high gear ratio, it will hardly feel getting your fingers off of your hand in case a cloth or sponge gets caught. Thank you for very informative video, though! Be safe and keep up the great work!
Hi Steve, I did watch the video at the time, but your videos are worth watching more than once, on a riding sail I have a delta on my Sigma 33C on the Scottish West Coast, and its great! Not only does she not blow off much but that means no heading over either, made from fairly stiff sail cloth with broom handle between the clews to keep it open. I'll see if I have a picture to send over. All the best guys.
yes I do think they are a good idea. We are finding with the extra solar panels aft and the full summer bimini that we dont ride at anchor too much now though. A good thing because I think fitting one with all that gubbins in the way might be tricky!
@@svfairisle yes it is a bit off a faff putting it but I do enjoy it if I get it sorted before the blow starts, and the curious looks as I haul it up.
LOVE THE TECHNICAL PART OF STAINLESS STEEL ❤️
At 18:05 he meant 316L, right?
No he was talking about 316Ti, that is the material the chain that came with Fair Isle was made out of. It is better than straight 316 in this application but not as good as 316L when it comes to warmer waters. 316L is only bettered by 318 or ‘duplex steel’ that is the material we went with on our new Cromox chain
Thank you for the reply. This “ANSI” nonsense naming scheme just doesn’t cut it, let me explain:
316 - can be DIN/EN rating 1.4401 which has just 2% Of Mo (same as Ti which is NOT suitable for all applications)
- if it is 1.4436 it has 2.8% Mo which IS suitable for all aplications!
316L -1.4404 has 2% of Mo NOT suitable for all applications
-1.4432 has 2.8% of Mo which IS suitable for all aplications!
316Ti -1.4571 has 2% of Mo NOT suitable for all applications
CroMax chains:
-1.4404 = 2% Mo NOT suitable for all applications
-1.4462 “Duplex” = 3% Mo IS suitable for all applications
-1.4507 “SuperDuplex” = 3.5% Mo IS suitable for all applications
Good luck to all when buying the damn chain 🙂
Steve, I think you're spot on in mentioning Spade and Ultra as good choices. Ultra's look perfect on the front of new Hallberg-Rassys - all shiny to go with the polished fittings. A Spade will look perfect on the front of our new Garcia Exploration. Being able to separate the shank from the base with the Spade is handy, if tucking it away somewhere on-board is necessary. The main problem with an Ultra is that they're a bit obvious when gift wrapped and sitting under a Christmas tree. ;-) Oh, and their price is a bit of a problem, too, hence the importance of them being a gift.
Ha! Yes it’s going to take some time for our boat kitty to recover from the shock of the chain to even think about an Ultra!
We’ve also got a Delta anchor but will probably go for a Rocna Vulcan. Steve at SV Panope seems to like it.
I use a Mantus Anchor 45lbs with ACCO G4 High Test Galvanized Chain and a snubber of 25feet of 3/4 3-strand New England Nylon tied on with a rolling hitch. In Florida stainless chain available don't last long, so galvanized it is. This is used on a 35 foot Island Packet Sailboat. For Tropical Storms, also have a Mantus 106 Lbs anchor.
You need to have the right stainless steel chain. There are several different grade of steel with different strengths. Check out www.cromox-us.com or www.ketten-waelder.de. The site is of course also in English. Probably the fastest growing brand. Almost no marketing, all by word of mouth. Absolute experts in chain making especially the welds which is where most others fail.
I fitted a Rocna anchor on my 40,000 pound 53 foot patch five years ago. In looking over my ships log, I anchored just over 120 times… Everything from overnight to as long as a couple weeks in one spot.
I found that it sets very quickly. I have dragged twice with this anchor and I'm certain in both instances any other anchor would've dragged in similar circumstances. One incident was only a few centimeters of sand over shale and the anchor wouldn't grab at all. The second instance was an anticipated storm that was very late in arriving and was almost exactly 180° opposite of how the boat was lying. I had about 100 m of chain out in only about 6m of water, but as we charged from one extent of the anchor range to the other, 200 m, We had to be moving at 2 to 3 knots. When we started the engine and took in the rode, the anchor was in a bowl of grass and debris close to a meter in diameter. There were perhaps 20 other boats in the anchorage and to my knowledge everyone dragged in these conditions. The only criticism I've ever heard of a Rocna that is it's inability to set in a rapid 180° wind change. From my experience I think this is a fair assessment.
While I’m very satisfied with the Rocna, if I was to purchase another anchor now I probably would get a mantis or perhaps the spade that you were considering. I would also advise you to look at the mantis swivel as it is very well-designed and appears extremely strong.
I am in complete and utter envy of your stainless steel chain! Each time it's come time to replace my galvanized chain, I've had some difficulty with the expense. I also have a minor castling problem with the galvanized chain piling up in the anchor locker. Also certain that stainless steel is a joy to clean! Perhaps, the only downside to stainless steel is an incident happened to me in the BVIs 25 years ago or so. The boat I had chartered had a stainless steel rode. But when the windless failed, it was quite a job recovering very slippery stainless anchor chain even with zero wind and current.
One last point, I've been very happy using an 8 mm 3-ply nylon braided line for my snubber. Even with a 20 ton vessel with a lot of windage, it has never failed me. I especially like it's spring-like effect, it's practically illuminates and absorbs all jerking motion! I also use a rolling hitch to attach this snubber since I've never found another device that doesn't harm the galvanized coating on the chain. I can't remember anchoring in any conditions worse than about 40 knots and perhaps 1 m waves through the anchorage,so perhaps it night fail in extreme conditions. The 8 mm snubber takes a beating and i replace it perhaps twice per year.
There’s no question that the Rocna is one of the best anchors out there, it’s large surface area and concave shape give it excellent holding power. It’s exactly that 180 degree reset that’s the Achilles heel. In sand you may have been fine, but if there’s sticky mud / grass to bunch up it the roll bar the tip will rise out of the substrate as it turns and you’re left with an anchor that’s tilted up and very unlikely to reset. Other anchors probably wouldn’t do much better but I’ld be interested to know if the Rocna Vulcan without the roll bar would Fair better?
Your 8mm snubber is pushing it a bit! I know why you’ve done it, to get the stretch early on, my snubber is probably a bit the other way, but Fair Isle is 26 tons and I’ve given some extra stretch with the mooring spring type rubber in there. I guess if you want your snubber to be short then thinner rode is needed but I put out at least 10 meters so there’s decent stretch there. Whatever works!
Love the animations. Reminds me after “Screen Test” 🔥
Nice informative video with good audio. It’s
funny how most anchor videos are in warm clear water conditions. I never even thought of diving on an anchor in murky muddy cold English waters!
It’s also interesting how methods have changed. We always used to use the water depth ( or expected in tidal) times the desired scope . The height of the roller was NEVER in that calculation , maybe just added at the end once only. All the old guides only used the water depth , but after a poor rewrite of the navy guide it got misinterpreted to add the roller height. This means you can have double the scope out than we used to , not surprising ‘modern anchors’ hold so well when your using double the scope.
Oh the calculation difference , take a 10’ roller HT in 10’ of water. At 3:1 old school was 30’ of chain out , modern 60’ of chain! Ignoring the holding difference the swinging room is way different., this is a real problem in tight tidal anchorages you get in Uk where the 60’ rode boat is going to be all over the 30’ ride boat when the tide changes 180 degs.
So, many people don’t question the modern anchoring guides , they all copy each other any way but it’s a real problem . Boat ideally have similiar scope out in crowed anchorages.
Cheers Warren
Ha! yes I had 30 years sailing the East coast and never once diving on an anchor, little point as the v is is so low! It's a bit of an eye opener out here when you can see what the anchors are doing!!
The power of Fair Isle and of UA-cam. I have just bought a Dehler 37 CWS (1994). The seller advised me I needed a new anchor chain. After scouring Jimmy Green, I remembered this video of yours Steve. Absolutely priceless. Thank you.
Did I pick it up right. Don’t buy a stainless steel chain for the Med? As it gets attacked in Med waters? I will watch the video again!
Don’t buy anything other than a 318 Cromox chain if you want a SS chain and you’re going to warm water. You just need to work out if the extra cost is worth it for you, it certainly was for us, very glad we went than way & largely thanks to Chris’s expertise, I was about to wimp out and go galvanised!
Ultra Anchor!!! We have one on TITANIA and we love it because it does it's job, has never let us down and looks great!
Yes it's certainly an impressive looking anchor, hope I get the chance to try one sometime.
Good one Steve. Very good advice.Cheers,Rob.
I had thought the bruce or claw style anchor was the best version until I hung the bruce anchor on an oilfield pipe and could not get it off as the curve of the bruce fit around the pipe in a twisted fashion. I have also been told and it makes sense that the tip of a bruce is too rounded for areas where there is a lot of vegetation or weeds. So I went with a Rocna as a replacement that doesn't have that curve area to wrap around a pipe and a sharper point for vegetation. I also now always set out a trip line with a fender rather than something that looks like a mooring ball shown in this video. The concern of a rock or mud getting caught in the hoop and allowing a drag I suppose could be a possibility but then for any style anchor a shape attached to it would defeat its design and let it drag. Regardless the choice of an anchor must assure you that under conditions that normally change like wind, tide, swell, and current you are absolutely confident the anchor will reset itself quickly.
I'm sure you notice the difference going to a new generation anchor. you can get CQR's - Bruces & the like to work most of the time but it all becomes a lot easier with a decent anchor!
Thanks for the information I found it very interesting.
I especially liked the ways of in jamming your anchor with the rope and chain as I lost mine a few month ago on a reef. I only have a 4.3M boat so not a big anchor.
Merry Christmas & a happy new year. Keep up the good work & thank you for sharing ♥️🎈. SV Kiwi Lady Opua Bay of islands New Zealand 👍
Excellent video and instruction. Thank you! Anchoring in forty knots of wind would definitely stress me out a bit.
Thanks for including the details and links in your description!
Kudos to your knowledge and research...Very informative.
As always a well done video.
A quite interesting video series on an anchors holding power and resetting ability here on UA-cam was done by SV Panope. After much consideration I went with a SARCA Excel Anchor.
I will look it up, thanks.
We have a Sarca Excel also and have found it to be excellent.
Ditto, I used SV Panope's test as the basis for selecting my anchor (Mantus). Even though the Mantus tested at the top for setting and resetting, he rejected it because he thought the shank was a bit to light for his boat and side loading may bend it. My boat is around the same length and a third of his weight, so I wasn't at all concerned and it hasn't been an issue. Over three years it's proven to be extremely reliable, it sets and resets quickly and it has great holding power down here in Tasmania's roaring forties. Over these years of sets it's only failed twice, spearing a scallop shell with the tip will do that, as will dropping it onto another patch of scallop shells when you move to reset it.
I've really been enjoying my 85lb Mantus tied to a Mantus swivel and mated to 200' of G4 Chain. All snubbed by a Mantus bridle snubber. Holds my Hylas 46 like a rock star!
Totally agree. We have the same set up on our IP485
We are on a 52 feet boat, weighing 26 ton approx. We use a 55kg Rocna Vulcan, which holds fantastically well, doesn't suffer from the poor galvanising like the Spade, and also allows for a more realistic scope in a tight anchorage. It held quite happily in an estuary with 38 knots blowing and both river current and tidal change seemed to have no effect on it.
Good to hear. I never hear bad things about how well Rocnas hold, as I said in the video it's just the roll bar that slightly puts me off. If the Vulcan still has the holding power of the normal Rocna but no roll bar, then that's got to be good!
@@svfairisle We also have a 35kg Spade in our lazerette, which was bought as it sits in there nicely in two pieces (and just in case the Vulcan was not up to the job.) Both were new 7 months ago, the Rocna Vulcan that sits on the bow all the time looks as good as new, the Spade in the locker that has never been in the sea has white corrosion marks on it. Can't see them ever been swapped !
On my previous boat (28', under 5 tons) I got a Fortress, 6kg - since there was no windlass, an easy pull was import. However it also held amazingly well. I once dropped it with 15m chain + 60m rode into 50m depth (yes, less than 2:1) in 2 knots current and to my surprise it held fast.
Yes the fluke (fortress/danforth) type anchors will hold on very short scopes, they don't need the shank to be down parallel to the sea bed so if the chain/rode lifts it slightly, as it will on a short scope, then it's no problem (up to a point!) the Fortress can be set at a steeper angle to make this even more effective. Fluke anchors are great in soft mud too, they have good surface area.
I love my kellet (27 sailboat) utilizing a 30' 1/4" chain & 300' 1/2" nylon line in a tight moorage. But I do fully realize, in a big blow, the rode can go taught and make the 20lb weight useless. Going to try adding two 10lb weights to it next summer.
I like my Rocna Vulcan. No roll bar so it's easily compatible with a bow sprit. I've had zero issues with mine but can't say that I've personally tested it near its limits.
As to anchor choice, we love our Ultra anchor and it would go well with the stainless steel chain. Our setup is 60 kg Ultra, with the Ultra swivel and 100m of 12mm galvanised G70 chain on a 28t / 17m mono.
That’s a very solid oversized setup you’ve got there. Not much gonna shift that! The more I look into Ultra the more impressed with them I am.
Great video. Thanks for spending so much time on it.
There are some reports of Rocna anchors not resetting on a 180 degree shift. I did not feel confident knowing this, though many cruisers in my area trust these anchors, I do not not.
I went with a Spade S120(55lb) as my current primary(will eventually become a backup and replaced with a S160 or S180. I've talked to a few cruisers who are currently cruising very high latitudes, all of which swear by Spade. I've talked with cruisers in the south pacific who are currently cruising with Spades and have zero issues. It is incredibly difficult to find cruisers with Spade anchors, but the ones who do have it, rarely have issues with setting their anchor.
I cruise the PNW and so far out of all the times i've anchored, never had isssue with it setting or resetting. I've been in blows up to 45knots with my anchor and have yet to drag.
I agree the Rocna, although in many respects excellent, does have that flaw. The Spade is superb and came down to the final two on my list.It's not the one I chose though! I'm working on the 'which anchor' video now.
That was a nicely put together informative video on this important topic. So well done, its appreciated. I also liked the use of the diagrams as I think that was really helpful. The discussion on the use of stainless steel vrs galvanised chain, pros and cons including consideration of cost vrs the value of one's boat etc was also really good to learn about.
In respect of anchor types, as you correctly note, most people seem to have their own preference for an anchor type and the usual candidates seem to pop up in the comments on this. If you are at all considering a spade type anchor rather than a Rocna with the hoop, based on my past 5 years experience on various boats I have sailed on and anchored in a variety of bottom substrate and weather conditions, my personal recommendation is the Australian designed and made Sarca Excel. There are numerous videos and reviews on line regarding the excellence of this anchor. Cost is comparable to pretty much most anchors.
Sure there is the issue of getting it shipped from Australia to wherever you might be when you decide to change but regardless of this, it should be there on your list of anchors for consideration I would suggest.
Another informative video Steve and I already know you’ll have a Stainless Ultra on Fair Isle soon! I would definitely say a SS chain and SS Ultra would be the best set-up for most conditions. With regards to the Rocna, which we have and absolutely love, I would say that the roll bar actually works to you advantage as it stops the anchors getting stuck in between rocks which many anchor shapes are prone to doing. We have a Rocna 33 and we stuck fast with our 24 ton boat AND an 58 foot yacht which had slipped anchor, lost his engine and needed to raft to us and our anchor held us both solidly. A real testament to the holding power of the Rocna. That said, my wife is never out of the locker when our chain piles up!
Ha! Yes I think the Ultra is at the top of the list, the bank balance would need to recover from the shock of the chain first though! Kudos to your wife for sorting the anchor locker though, the only reason Judy agreed to us forking out for stainless was to avoid that!
thank you for such an informative video, you have a new subscriber!
Good rant. I dont really like the rear transome. Have you ever been to a marina and had to sleep next to one? They are noisy. The waves bash up underneath.
Yes watch Ep49 I have a good rant about the boat next to us there!
great video, best I've seen about s/s chain. How long does the Waelder chain last in 'hot' water? If 316 can corrode in 3 months, whats the life span of the Waelder? TIA
aha , might have found the answer...from Aust Cromox web site FAQs...Stainless steels are generally regarded as seawater resistant with a PRE-value of at least 33. The cromox Duplex material 1.4462 ( AISI 318LN ) has a PRE-value of 35 and is therefore seawater resistant up to 94°F.
Yes sailing in warmer waters with the Cromox chain is no problem.
These plastic chain marker could be a problem. See this: Crevice corrosion (CC) is a form of localized corrosion that occurs within crevices and other shielded areas where a small volume of a stagnant solution is present. Such crevices can be formed at metal/metal or metal/non-metal junctions, such as those associated with gaskets, valve seats, rivet and bolt heads and lap joints, as well as under surface deposits (i.e., corrosion products, sand and dirt) or marine biofouling. Crevice corrosion is mainly observed on passive metals and alloys covered with protective oxide films, such as stainless steels, Ti alloys, and Ni-base alloys immersed in aerated aqueous environments containing Cl− ions (e.g., sea and brackish water). May be if you install it using silicone you can prevent moisture between the two surfaces.
Yes for 316 that might be a consideration. The Cromox chain is 318 Duplex steel
Lizards aboard old sailing ships. They are small strops wire or hemp,used with ships head sails . Down-hauls use hemp lizards, seized to Hanks at intervals down the luff of head sails, to prevent the down-haul blowing about. A bowline lizard [wire] would be part of a bowline bridal use to keep taught the weather leech of the sail when close-hauled
. So would not a wire strop be of use to weight anchor? Jacktar
My rule of thumb is one cinder block for every 10 knots of wind expected. I bind them together with parachute cord and drop them over the side. I've never dragged more than a few miles when using a 1:2 scope on my S&S 42' with less than 5 kts of wind. (OK, just kidding.) Very good presentation. It was thorough and easy to understand! What would you do if the the wind was forecast to increase and the boater who anchored in front of you got in his dinghy to go ashore for the night?
Thank you for the great information. It’s given me a lot to think about. Doesn’t the height of your Sampson post weaken it? I would think it would be much stronger if it was lower to the deck.
It's very strong, but you're right, if i was say being towed, I would loop the rope around the bottom of the post not the top.
Thanks for that the info on the chain was especially helpful to me at least. I personally would recommend the Rocna but as a Kiwi I might be a bit biased.😁
The thing is Bryan I've been to New Zealand, the home of bungy jumping! You guys are all dare devils I wouldn't put it past you to invent an anchor that drags at 3am just to make things more fun! :)
@@svfairisle lol I had a look at the Ultra anchor on line and I hate to say it but it out preformed the Rocna even on a straight pull
Great video.
The German guy is wonderful.
We agree!
Call me old fashioned, Ultra and Rocna are great, but always keep a good sized old "fisherman" aboard. Even an Ultra will not find a way to bite if you have heavy growth of kelp, sea grass, weed. New designs are made for the cruising charter "industry." Their routes always seem to have lovely sand to drop the hook into. But, great video, yet again. Really well put together, great info.
No you're right. If you're up against kelp it probably the only thing thats got a chance! bugger to stow though!
@@svfairisle I think they look rather jaunty lashed to the stern rail.
Just found you guys, great videos, I just subscribed and looking forward to seeing much more from you guys.
hello there. thank you for this video. two things. first, you asked for feedback. I trust Manson Supreme after 7 years of full-time anchoring in heavy weather in the Med and Atlantic. second, do you have a contact Welder in Germany?
My contact at Ketten Welder was Alex, not sure if he's still there though. his email was: schoenberger@ketten-waelder.de
Our Rocna saved our (_*_) this early spring. Our weather app went off and told us we were going to be receiving 65 mph winds (northerlies as we are in Florida). seemed to be holding very well. Then out of the blue our weather app went off and said we were now under tornado warning and two had been spotted in our area. (Dunedin Florida). sure enough the tornado gave us a direct hit. We had 120 foot of chain out on our Rocna and as a back up anchor we had a 25 pound Danforth with 45 foot chain and 75 foot of rope. Our boat spun around in circles eight times and dragged 600 yards. It was the most incredible thing you could think probably be described as nothing less than violent. All the other boats around us ended up on the shore. Our boat,,,,, lives to see another day. She has also survived the hurricane Irma in Texas. I would highly suggest getting this anchor. And in 35 kn of wind when it changes a 180° direction our anchor grabs immediately. May be slipping the length of the anchor once or twice. She always seems to immediately grab. I know others that have this anchor and are equally as impressed. That being said! Thank you so much for the amazing video.
Yes there's no doubt that the Rocna is a great anchor. It's got great holding power and sets fast, it also resets really well, up there with the best. Rocnas probably get the most love from owners of any anchor out there which counts for a lot. Having an anchor you can depend on is crucial for your nerves as a live-aboard I think!
If you've seen the latest episodes though you'll see I've gone for an Ultra. From the research I've done I do think this surpasses the Rocna at least on paper. I'm testing it now and will produce a video just on anchors when I'm done.
No matter what though you're fine with your Rocna!
Recently I actually seen a video where the Rocna anchor had a rock wedged in it. It was one another selling show here on UA-cam. The anchor does have flaws, but for me, that’s why I getting a really good back up anchor as well LOL. Funny that you decided to use an ultra as well. That is going to be my next anchor. For sure, without a doubt.
If you want to have a ratio of 7:1 for example, you set it on that ratio with the chain only or you do 6:1 with chain and the las fraction to get 7:1 includes the snobber's length?
The snubber length will be part of the scope and affect the angle at the anchor so it counts towards getting you chosen ratio. Just remember that with certain anchors, and/or if you have switched to a smaller gauge stronger test chain, it will be lighter and affect the catenary as you set. So if you add the snubber after then you may still need more chain out than you think to set well.
Beautiful boat and glad I found your very very knowledgeable videos thanks and just subscribed cheers from Texas s/v oceancowboy
Good video and highly informative but if I might add a small point. Should you decide to fit a swivel, never attach it straight to the anchor shank as they are not good at taking a side load when the anchor resets in tide or wind. Fit a large bow shackle or a few links of chain between the shank and swivel to allow for articulation.
Yes, ive covered it on the website www.sailingfairisle.com/anchoring.html
@@svfairisle Thanks for he reply, I hadn't seen that when I posted. Loving the videos.
Lets say that you buy a boat being a mono or multi hull, if the anchor chain is "only" 75 meters but you prefer a minimum of 100 meter chain, can you add the (for you) required extra meters or do you have to go buy a new chain? Thanks 🧐
You can get joining links yes but they will always be the weakest link even in a standard chain. for a high test chain or Cromox chain like we have it will be much weaker than the rest of the chain and will be more liable to corrosion. The other option is to splice some rode on the end. A splice that doubles back is stronger than one that is woven into the chain which I always thought was a bit counter intuitive. You will need to make sure your gypsy is okay with both of these options.
The Beneteau at the beginning of your video is doing what every (French) boat seems to be doing in the Med. Creep in as close to someone else as you can,. drop your anchor and give or take 10/20m of chain over the front of the boat, close it all down, and have drinks. The few times (yes, only just got started) we anchored and I backed down on mine after setting with ~5:1 scope (on chain) I got looked at real weird. Not due to the scope, but due to the backing down slowly and sitting for a few minutes with our engine at 2000rpm to make sure we weren't going to go anywhere.
Not all Beneteau owners are numpties. Some of us are quite experienced sailors, but we are always learning. Great video - thanks Steve.
@@genevievemay3461 'Not all Beneteau owners are numpties' -- True, but, there is a stereotype :)
When looking at your anchor would you keep your shackle as is our swap it around so the round part is thru the anchor. If it gets heavy side load as it is now it could pry the shackle apart and separate from from the anchor.
I think you’ve got confused. I would never fit a shackle the wrong way around to an anchor. If I were using shackles they would be fitted the right way around, and if the anchor didn’t allow a shackle to be fitted correctly I would use two. The shackle you see in the shot with the anchor in the sea bed is on the front of the anchor. It is what I use to hold the anchor up tight against the bow sprit and what I connect the trip buoy to if needed. With the anchors I’ve shown in the videos I have a swivel with articulation, this helps with prising loads but doesn’t dispense with the problem completely so you have to be careful with what you fit.
@@svfairisle yes it’s the under water shot when you dive on it. I assumed the chain was buried and that was the back.
You videos are very good I enjoy watching them.
We just bought the 60kg ultra so I was watching old videos while waiting for our anchor to arrive which came today, get to install it tomorrow.
I went with the mantis swivel but may spend the big $$ for the ultra swivel so my wife doesn’t have to worry about flipping it over.
We could have gotten away with one size smaller but I’ll sleep well at night with the 60kg
Yes you wont regret it. No one sits in an anchorage when it's blowing 40 knots and wishes they had spent less on ground tackle!
@@svfairisle we just replaced our severely undersized 60lb Bruce with a 132lb Ultra, Previous owners raced the boat a lot and were always at the dock so they wanted light weight. I want to sleep at night knowing we are not going anywhere!!!! Even for a lunch hook a 60lb anchor on a 60,000lb boat is just way too small. The biggest issue I have found is coming up with a shackle that fits thru the hole on the ancho that comes close to the chain strength. The best i could find so far is a 12mm Wichard with a 4580WLL and 13220 breaking load. Its pretty close to the chain but the chain is still stronger.
Excllent video, thank you - specially the chain piece. Question: What would be the life span of a Walder cromox 318 LN chain in tropical waters? Since it costs 2.5 times the good galvanized equivalent (Maggi), would it last 2.5 times longer? I meain, if you have to buy galvanized chain every 3 years this would be a wash, right?
That's a good question, this standard of stainless hasn't been around for long enough to know for sure, but if you look after the chain (keeping a good chain locker is key to that) it should easily last the 2.5 x longer than a Maggie's chain to make it cost effective. It's a tough decision I know because of the big initial outlay, but for us getting good new chain in remote parts of the world may be difficult (and Maggies went bust so you struggle to get good chain even here!) plus if you did go through say 2 galvanised chains in 15 years maybe with a regavanising in between even if you could calculate you've saved a small amount of money on the whole deal, you've had to deal with flaky, rusty, muddy, non-stacking galvanised chain for 15 years!
@@svfairisle Interesting. Just like everything else in our world it boils down to a tough decision or a compromise. Thank you.
I got it the wrong way round. SS Cromox 318 for warmer waters. I’m afraid I can only afford galvanised for now. However we will move to warmer waters in 2022, Covid permitting, so I will buy Cromox 318 then.
Awesome information! Much appreciated.
Great insight to a wide ranging subject. Thank you.
Great review and share. I do agree with you on your plough comment. I am replacing mine now with an Ultra although I nearly went for a Manson Supreme which I think is a great anchor having used it on a friend’s boat but the Ultra hasn’t got that roller half ring thing and to me is far superior to most on the market and unbeatable on the ‘add-ons’ (swivel, anchor recovery ring...) which are specifically designed for the Ultra. I have a classic looking yacht like Fair Isle and that stainless steel anchor and chain combo just got to look fab on them...until you get couple scratches :-( but hey can’t win on every single point ;-D
I'ld be interested to know how you get on with the Ultra. It's very high I my list, I just wish they'd put a slot in the shank rather than a hole so you can get the proper sized shackle on the right way around!
@@svfairisle true you are right in regards to the shank. Because of the COVID 19 the refit is now delayed so could be a wee while (3 - 4 months) before I can give a real life feedback on the Ultra but if I get someone else who has used it extensively I will get them to share their feedback with you. ;-)
Thanks for sharing! Very interesting that you have to have Duplex instead of 316L in the tropics. What is the price difference between the two?
I know since I have worked in the oil industry(logistic & controlling) that the best stainless steel you get from Germany or Sweden, and occasional from France. But stay away from any "certified" metal from China and Russia/Sovjet area. As the guy said, you never know what you get, except that you don't get quality.
Yes it was news to me too! You wouldn't think water temperature could make such a difference but it does. The Cromox chain is half as much again in cost over 316L , but it's not just superior corrosion resistance you're getting. It's a steel that doesn't case harden like Austenitic steel can and the Cromox chain from Ketten Wålder is properly welded. It's the welds that suffer crevice corrosion. That's what happened to my old chain.
Great video and much appreciated education. Subscribed
I would also recommend an Ultra anchor. They are very reliable and beautiful to look at.
Yes the more I research it the better they look!
Sailing Fair Isle If your chain is stainless steel then the anchor has to match it right? In that case Ultra is the clear choice IMHO.
It doesn't have to, you can have a SS anchor on a galvanised chain and visa versa. Most people have stainless shackles in systems with galvanised anchors or chains or both. It's the zinc on the galvanised metals that will suffer. On the anchor no great problem as there's a lot of it, on the chain, well the closest links may start to suffer & you may have to chop them off every couple of years but shouldn't be worse than that. Of course all stainless is the best option as you say & the Ultra is an excellent anchor so yes I think you may be onto something!
Very interesting and informative. Thank you.
Just keep an eye to a JAMBO anchor. Thanks for sharing your video’s.
I like the look of it, certainly for our second anchor as its sharp so great for hard bottoms. We have the Bugle for that presently, but I'm not sure it has enough surface area to hold a boat like ours in anything soft.
Ultra no question. I have a AMEL 54 with a 45KG ULTRA. I ordered it from Czechoslovakia and it arrived in 3 days to Gibraltar. And there pretty sweet.
Good choice in boat and anchor! I spent yesterday on board an Amel, a very different boat from ours in style but massively capable blue water cruiser and with some really cool practical features, I didn’t realise quite how well sorted Amels are. So I’m not surprised you have good taste in anchors. Similar to the Amel I think the more you look at an Ultra the more you’re going to like it! Seems like design genius to me and so far I can’t find another anchor to touch it, still researching!!
@@svfairisle In 2016 I desperately tried to buy a Hans Christian 44 pilothouse ketch, on lake Ontario in Canada. It was so nice. Once called UBU when it was in San Diego. Slowly it was through years of being tied to a dock, becoming a sad story. Yours seems to be very well cared for. Stay safe S/V Albedo, currently in Gibraltar
Really good useful video. BTW Savvy Navvy are adding an AIS link next year. I have an Ipad Pro and find that Navionics drains the battery faster than I can charge it (I leave it plugged in to a 3 amp socket). Does anyone have any idea how to sort this out. I have tried dimming etc.
Have a look and see if the USB charger you have is giving the full 5.1volts, some don't. If it is delivering 3A at 5.1v then thats 15.3Watts which would be more than enough for your ipad unless there's something wrong with it(unlikely)
Dear Steve and Judy, Congrats on such a great series...just finished the Delos one..excellent. I have a similar boat with bowsprit and whisker stays etc and would greatly appreciate details of your triangular anchor pivot system if you don't mind sharing in a tech corner. Much obliged and fair winds Fairisle!
Ill put some drawings and measurements on the tech corner page when we get to our winter berth
Hello and thanks for the thorough information. Would you have a link where to get the coloured rubber makers fot the chain? I’ve so far only found brittle 2-piece plastic “click-on” ones.
Hi jan, yes I know what you mean our old chain came with the hard plastic ones & they eventually crack and fall out. Sorry though don't have a link as I bought them from a chandler in Cartagena and then some more from a chandler in Sardinia so they are around, they look longer than the hard versions when I first bought them I took an one in and though they were the wrong size but theyre not.
Nice job Steve! Very good point brought up by your engineer , and that is the money spent on gadgets and gismos verses the money spent on safety gear, and in this case the best rode available. I have always been amazed how my undersized anchor holds Jennifer Marie,(Tartan34c) But Im just a inshore day cruiser. Best wishes to you and Judy!