A tunnel mouth leading into the shed might be one way of working that idea in and would probably look good - you'd have to make the side door open inwards or lift up though. LGB have a reversing loop system for DC layouts if you don't want to go DCC, it'd allow you to do away with the S bend going into the shed and still run trains in both directions.
I came across your video this morning, it cought eye when I saw a bunch of Burlington Northern rolling stock & loco's. Looks like a nice sized layout, not too small which is what I am thinking about doing. I like the 12v in the control shed, like you mentioned not using track power for lighting of buildings. I appreciate the tips on the points, I've heard they can be a bit fussy. Thanks for sharing this video. Keep em' on the rails & rolling coal. 🚂🚃🚃🚃
You're learning the lessons that we all learn in model railroading. It doesn't matter what size. The "rules" are the same. Yes, most of the rolling stock and locomotives will go through ok most of the time. BUT! they look as nice and in certain situations they absolutely won't go through ok. Wider radius curves and longer switches are always better. Heavy grades will put wear and tear on the equipment. Track power in the Pacific Northwest will eventually become a problem. Granted installing battery power and control is really expensive!! Nice looking layout. It's going to be interesting watching it evolve
Looks good and I have yet to build mine been buying stuff and still on the fence about curves as I want bigger curves because I want to convert all my rolling stock to body mount couplers. I am really still in the planning stages so mind is all over the place needless to say. I built a 4 foot long truss bridge awhile back so that means I have to use it right,lol. Great job on your railroad keep us posted, Thanks
Looks like you're using the hook & loop type couplers. They tend to bind when shoving and truck tongue mounted couplers seem to shove out on the curves. I would recommend changing to body mounted 906 Kadee couplers.
Great stuff! Those +2.5% grade changes are brutal! Good tips on the switch track derailing issues :) Here are some plant ideas, low sun is an issue, but keep trying! - Anita ivy (Hedera helix ‘Anita’, Zones 5-10) can be trimmed and trained to make a believable grape arbor, - Miniature hemlock, probably Abbott’s Pygmy - Red Star white cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides ‘Red Star’, Zones 4-8) is a wonderful little cultivar with in-scale, tree-like proportions, growing in a narrow column 2½ to 3' tall at maturity. - For a lively groundcover with green and gold variegated foliage, choose Highland Cream thyme (Thymus praecox ‘Highland Cream’, Zones 3-8). Pale pink flowers will appear in summer on this sun lover that delights in growing among rocks and in gravelly, well-drained soil. - white cedar with a dense, vertical tree shape is Ellwood’s Pillar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Ellwood’s Pillar’, Zones 5-9). It grows to 3-4' tall at maturity and its blue-green foliage contrasts well with other conifers. - Appearing to be small apple trees in bloom are Mexican false heather, a.k.a. elfin herb (Cuphea hyssopifolia, Zones 8-11). These are easy to grow in full to partial sun and average soil and watering.
Thanks for the plant ideas. Part of my problem is that I've been lazy and grabbed most plants from my local hardware store. I think I need to go to an actual nursery to get the appropriate plants for the location of my railroad.
Very nice layout! Most of the issues you mention are exactly what the prototype railroads deal with, and other scales of model railroading as well. 2+ percent is tough, in any scale. Tehachapi pass has a 2.36% grade and is a tough climb and usually requires helper locos (DPU's) and Cajon pass has a stretch of 2.5% on the downgrade Santa Fe track. There have been runaways here and major rail disasters. So, same thing with prototype trains, they are at full power and barely making it up the hill, and have to use full dynamic braking to get down the hill without running away. So, yes, keeping grades to about 1% in any scale is much easier and realistic. Same thing with the sharp radius curves and backing around them. S curves are prohibited on prototype railroads, there has to be a section of straight track of at least 2 car lengths between opposite curves to avoid one car pushing/pulling the next car off the rails. Great on the electric conductivity! As far as expansion joints, you can use clamps on every other joint (or solder them) on opposite rails. Common in HO scale railroading. That allows for some expansion without the expansion/contraction destroying your ties. I really like your setup, nice size, and looks fun. Always remember, as level as possible, and wide a radius as possible to allow for operation.
Well, hopefully come spring or early summer, I'll have the time to modify my loop to reduce the grade. With two young kids, I find that doubtful, but who knows.
Good point. In my early videos on my railroad setup, I did mention I was doing track power, but I don't think I ever called out which power supply I'm using. Part of the reason is because my power supply is ooooold. It's a North Coast Hobbies Bluestreak from ~1994. It's not something a person can easily get these days. So I suppose I never gave it much attention. I like your comment though and will try and shoot a video describing more about the power connectors and transformer. So, thanks for the idea.
Sorry, it's so frustrating hearing your explanations, I'd say you're stuck in toy train syndrome and "trying" to mix in a small amount of real railroad. All the R2s, R3s, Piko curved switch, etc. seems more than it should be. Hopefully you have visited other garden railways and spent some time studying how the real RRs do things. You'd have a whole lot smoother RR in the long run. There's great potential there but it appears to me that you're making things hard on yourself, . . . .
A tunnel mouth leading into the shed might be one way of working that idea in and would probably look good - you'd have to make the side door open inwards or lift up though. LGB have a reversing loop system for DC layouts if you don't want to go DCC, it'd allow you to do away with the S bend going into the shed and still run trains in both directions.
I came across your video this morning, it cought eye when I saw a bunch of Burlington Northern rolling stock & loco's.
Looks like a nice sized layout, not too small which is what I am thinking about doing.
I like the 12v in the control shed, like you mentioned not using track power for lighting of buildings.
I appreciate the tips on the points, I've heard they can be a bit fussy.
Thanks for sharing this video. Keep em' on the rails & rolling coal. 🚂🚃🚃🚃
Thanks for the comment. I hope some of my stuff proves useful and helps you on your journey.
You're learning the lessons that we all learn in model railroading. It doesn't matter what size. The "rules" are the same.
Yes, most of the rolling stock and locomotives will go through ok most of the time. BUT! they look as nice and in certain situations they absolutely won't go through ok.
Wider radius curves and longer switches are always better. Heavy grades will put wear and tear on the equipment.
Track power in the Pacific Northwest will eventually become a problem. Granted installing battery power and control is really expensive!!
Nice looking layout.
It's going to be interesting watching it evolve
Looks good and I have yet to build mine been buying stuff and still on the fence about curves as I want bigger curves because I want to convert all my rolling stock to body mount couplers. I am really still in the planning stages so mind is all over the place needless to say. I built a 4 foot long truss
bridge awhile back so that means I have to use it right,lol. Great job on your railroad keep us posted, Thanks
Love the baby giggles!. Lookin' good, best wishes from New Zealand.
I said "short video", but this one turned out really long. Whoops. Still, I hope someone found it enjoyable.
Looks like you're using the hook & loop type couplers. They tend to bind when shoving and truck tongue mounted couplers seem to shove out on the curves. I would recommend changing to body mounted 906 Kadee couplers.
Great stuff! Those +2.5% grade changes are brutal! Good tips on the switch track derailing issues :)
Here are some plant ideas, low sun is an issue, but keep trying!
- Anita ivy (Hedera helix ‘Anita’, Zones 5-10) can be trimmed and trained to make a believable grape arbor,
- Miniature hemlock, probably Abbott’s Pygmy
- Red Star white cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides ‘Red Star’, Zones 4-8) is a wonderful little cultivar with in-scale, tree-like proportions, growing in a narrow column 2½ to 3' tall at maturity.
- For a lively groundcover with green and gold variegated foliage, choose Highland Cream thyme (Thymus praecox ‘Highland Cream’, Zones 3-8). Pale pink flowers will appear in summer on this sun lover that delights in growing among rocks and in gravelly, well-drained soil.
- white cedar with a dense, vertical tree shape is Ellwood’s Pillar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Ellwood’s Pillar’, Zones 5-9). It grows to 3-4' tall at maturity and its blue-green foliage contrasts well with other conifers.
- Appearing to be small apple trees in bloom are Mexican false heather, a.k.a. elfin herb (Cuphea hyssopifolia, Zones 8-11). These are easy to grow in full to partial sun and average soil and watering.
Thanks for the plant ideas. Part of my problem is that I've been lazy and grabbed most plants from my local hardware store. I think I need to go to an actual nursery to get the appropriate plants for the location of my railroad.
Very nice layout! Most of the issues you mention are exactly what the prototype railroads deal with, and other scales of model railroading as well. 2+ percent is tough, in any scale. Tehachapi pass has a 2.36% grade and is a tough climb and usually requires helper locos (DPU's) and Cajon pass has a stretch of 2.5% on the downgrade Santa Fe track. There have been runaways here and major rail disasters. So, same thing with prototype trains, they are at full power and barely making it up the hill, and have to use full dynamic braking to get down the hill without running away. So, yes, keeping grades to about 1% in any scale is much easier and realistic. Same thing with the sharp radius curves and backing around them. S curves are prohibited on prototype railroads, there has to be a section of straight track of at least 2 car lengths between opposite curves to avoid one car pushing/pulling the next car off the rails. Great on the electric conductivity! As far as expansion joints, you can use clamps on every other joint (or solder them) on opposite rails. Common in HO scale railroading. That allows for some expansion without the expansion/contraction destroying your ties. I really like your setup, nice size, and looks fun. Always remember, as level as possible, and wide a radius as possible to allow for operation.
Well, hopefully come spring or early summer, I'll have the time to modify my loop to reduce the grade. With two young kids, I find that doubtful, but who knows.
You never talk about power requirements for the trains or accessories. Seems like no one does that talk about this... why?
Good point. In my early videos on my railroad setup, I did mention I was doing track power, but I don't think I ever called out which power supply I'm using. Part of the reason is because my power supply is ooooold. It's a North Coast Hobbies Bluestreak from ~1994. It's not something a person can easily get these days. So I suppose I never gave it much attention.
I like your comment though and will try and shoot a video describing more about the power connectors and transformer. So, thanks for the idea.
@@ShadowVFX thank you for your reply, thinking of getting into it but no one talks nor shows how they power their tracks
I'll try to make an impromptu video in the upcoming weeks to tackle this subject on my railroad.
@@ShadowVFX Thank you, that would be most helpful as the only video that talks about putting in power, was 11 years old.
Sorry, it's so frustrating hearing your explanations, I'd say you're stuck in toy train syndrome and "trying" to mix in a small amount of real railroad. All the R2s, R3s, Piko curved switch, etc. seems more than it should be. Hopefully you have visited other garden railways and spent some time studying how the real RRs do things. You'd have a whole lot smoother RR in the long run. There's great potential there but it appears to me that you're making things hard on yourself, . . . .