Dave, do you plan on selling 48V systems? For people like me doing full off grid setups where all my power goes to the battery and there is no AC available, the 48V makes the most sense. Would be nice if y our units didn't require 90V and the DC input could be either panels or batteries.
Hi Cy, we had the great debate about this a couple three years ago. There's certainly a need for those systems. For most users, the grid is the cheapest battery at nighttime. The electronics and compressor on the 48-volt systems are rarer, and so they're more expensive and, from our analysis, more likely to fail. These Airspool hybrid units are really souped-up 315v inverter compressor units, and so those compressors are being manufactured in the millions on a worldwide basis. And for a lot of users, running an air conditioner off the 48-volt system means that they're going to need more batteries and a bigger mppt. So for a lot of off gridders, it's simple to just slap on three panels to our unit and then run off of their inverter at nighttime. Having said all that, managing DC power will be a big thing in the future, so we'll work to store of the extra power not being used by the Airspool and be able to run the unit at nighttime or run possibly other things off of that same local battery array.
12k for 1845 is this the only size you offer now? I’ve seen 9k and 24k so I guess 12k is a good option also.Funny other countries been using mini splits over 30-40 years.
Yes, mini splits are sort of gaining more traction here in the U.S. overseas, for instance in hotel rooms, they are the standard. But the solar hybrid ones are pretty fresh. We're focused on one ton units right now, but others will be coming. Get in touch if you need a 2-ton one, and we'll make it happen.
For 2024: Would using a standalone 48V Power Sation as the 'plug-in' 120V for the unit, work for evening runtime? Instead of connecting to our home 120V system @ .40/kWh. If I built a portable power station or even an outdoor weather-resistant unit, I could add a few more panels to charge the power station up during the day.
Yes, sure. The system won't know the difference. And the system will take any alternating current, weather from an inverter or from the grid, as long as it's between 110 volts and 240 volts. So it's pretty flexible on what you feed it.
Yes, it uses both solar and grid power. If there's not enough solar power to run it, then grid power will fill in automatically, but solar will always be prioritized.
Yes, we don't sell them. We're all in on the hybrid unit. There's a market for the 48 volt ones, but as the video mostly alludes to, we think that the hybrid units are a better option for most people since they don't require the batteries, mppt, or external voltage regulator like the 48 volt one do. But a solution is that if you can buck up your 48 to be over 80 volt, then you can plug this directly into the DC ports on the Airspool unit.
It needs between 80 volts and 380 volts of DC power from the solar panels. And then, if you want to plug in the alternating current, it needs from 110 volts to 240 volts for that. Solar will always be prioritized.
Yes. We've updated a few things, such as putting in more extensive installation instructions and videos by native English speakers, plus included the power cord, Allen wrench, and MC4 disconnect tools. We also have a Quick 'n' Easy option, which allows you to twist-to-connect both the pre-charge refrigerant lines for this option as well as the communication control cable. Plus, the included alternating current power cord is pre-installed on this model. So, the connection process takes less than 5 minutes. And for both the standard and Quick 'n' Easy model, there is a one-year buy-and-try guarantee, so you can return it for a whole year, no questions asked. Speaking of questions, we are at the ready to answer any installation questions and to give real-time support.
Yes. This is optimized to be 22 SEER2. We could add more coil, but then it adds more expensive, and since it's running off of solar for free during the day anyway...
I don't agree that if your off grid the bybrid unit is inherently better, I would ague the DC battery system is better because you are already going to have batteries, yes it means a larger battery system, but if your off grid like your going to need those extra batteries and solar pannels anyway, if you have all the solar pannels connected to the battery it will recharge the battery as there is energy drawn by the air conditioner and the hybrid system if your going to be using the inverter means your going to be converting DC to AC to DC which those 2 conversions will only be at best 95% efficent so your going to be consuming more power from the batteries anyway. Your kinda just bullshiting here that that is a inherently better solution, sure 48V motors may be more expensive to replace, and maintaining LFP batteries with communication is also BS because they auto balance and have like 5000 cycles at a 2C rate, where generally for solar your going to peek at a 0.5C rate so your probably going to get more than those 5000 cycles to 80% capacity. Maybe if we were talking lead acid batteries that could be a bit cumbersume, but LFP batteries with which can talk to each other nope.
I think if the stars are aligned, and you have a 48-volt battery array and your mppt can allow more than 160 volts or whatever so that you can add more panels without an upgrade, then yes, a 48-volt system would be a great option. In general for most, those units cost more and they need more gear to run. For a lot of folks, even off gridders, it's easy to pick up a couple of extra panels and plug those directly into a hybrid unit, since, in effect, it has its own separate mppt, so you don't need to worry about bogging down your existing system or how adding a relatively major appliance will affect it. Anyway, there will be more and more DC nanogrids in the future, because lots of folks are going off grid, or at least wanting to, and because units like these solar air conditioners, electric vehicles, computers, televisions, are inherently DC to run directly off solar without inversion and rectification, and because the cost of solar is continuing to decrease while the cost of grid power continues to increase while at the same time the trustworthiness and predictability of the grid is decreasing. There will be different DC nodes for different voltage values, and less power will need to be put through the inverter.
@@airspool You need a minium charge voltage of 65V to charge a 48V battery as you need 5V over the battery voltage to charge it and 48V batteries maxium state of charge can be as high as 59V, realistically you should be 50% over that figure for the maxium opperating voltage so ~97.5V, after that if your not over the amperage limit you can add as many strings as you want and honestly overpanneling is a thing so even if you are over the amperage the charge controller can provide it's still fine it just means while yes you wont get more performance at the peek of each day all the rest of the time you will get extra capacity. And I would like to point out that you can get to ~97.5V maxium opperating voltage with 3 x 425W pannels. Also you can just add another MPPT to your batteries and a victron 150V/35A only costs like $150 which can handle 4S2P of the specific pannels I am looking at so 3400W of solar, MPPT costs are not really a big deal when your going to be spending $1000 on those pannels, and yes you can use muliple charge controller in parallel. Also you can add a cut off switch to the postive that goes to the heatpump to cut it off when it reaches 40% state of charge or so. I just don't see it being that bigger pain than running it off the inverter, like if your going to have to install extra solar anyway I would like to be able to take that solar capacity when the unit is not cooling and do other things with it rather than the system I added only being a drain on my main system and an extra drain at that because as I said you have to ad the DC to AC to DC conversion losses ontop. Like if your ongrid and you don't have any other solar system, I can see it, but for people offgrid with 48V batteries not so much.
Hi how are you. I'm an electrician from ny. Where can I get this units with solar panels?? I would love to work with you, I have a nice a/c company that we can make it work together.
We offer buying and try for your purchase. Yes, you have to pay for the unit, but we'll refund your purchase for a full year if you're not happy with its performance.
Can't beat the warranty! Just installed one, and love it! Ordered another one. Thanks Dave!
That's awesome man. I will share on F.B. I will be getting 1 soon
👏👏👏Amazing description, I will always pay attention on his work.
Dave, do you plan on selling 48V systems? For people like me doing full off grid setups where all my power goes to the battery and there is no AC available, the 48V makes the most sense. Would be nice if y our units didn't require 90V and the DC input could be either panels or batteries.
Hi Cy, we had the great debate about this a couple three years ago. There's certainly a need for those systems. For most users, the grid is the cheapest battery at nighttime. The electronics and compressor on the 48-volt systems are rarer, and so they're more expensive and, from our analysis, more likely to fail. These Airspool hybrid units are really souped-up 315v inverter compressor units, and so those compressors are being manufactured in the millions on a worldwide basis. And for a lot of users, running an air conditioner off the 48-volt system means that they're going to need more batteries and a bigger mppt. So for a lot of off gridders, it's simple to just slap on three panels to our unit and then run off of their inverter at nighttime. Having said all that, managing DC power will be a big thing in the future, so we'll work to store of the extra power not being used by the Airspool and be able to run the unit at nighttime or run possibly other things off of that same local battery array.
12k for 1845 is this the only size you offer now? I’ve seen 9k and 24k so I guess 12k is a good option also.Funny other countries been using mini splits over 30-40 years.
Yes, mini splits are sort of gaining more traction here in the U.S. overseas, for instance in hotel rooms, they are the standard. But the solar hybrid ones are pretty fresh. We're focused on one ton units right now, but others will be coming. Get in touch if you need a 2-ton one, and we'll make it happen.
For 2024:
Would using a standalone 48V Power Sation as the 'plug-in' 120V for the unit, work for evening runtime? Instead of connecting to our home 120V system @ .40/kWh.
If I built a portable power station or even an outdoor weather-resistant unit, I could add a few more panels to charge the power station up during the day.
Yes, sure. The system won't know the difference. And the system will take any alternating current, weather from an inverter or from the grid, as long as it's between 110 volts and 240 volts. So it's pretty flexible on what you feed it.
@@airspool
I don't get it. Can you feed the hybrid unit with AC or DC current?
Does one need a rectifier to use the AC current?
Can your air conditioning unit automatically start and stop operating based on whether there is incoming solar power or not?
Yes, it uses both solar and grid power. If there's not enough solar power to run it, then grid power will fill in automatically, but solar will always be prioritized.
@@airspool my question is in off-grid mode, can this AC automatic cool the room when we have solar power?
Followed your web links, don't see the 48v product
Yes, we don't sell them. We're all in on the hybrid unit. There's a market for the 48 volt ones, but as the video mostly alludes to, we think that the hybrid units are a better option for most people since they don't require the batteries, mppt, or external voltage regulator like the 48 volt one do. But a solution is that if you can buck up your 48 to be over 80 volt, then you can plug this directly into the DC ports on the Airspool unit.
And you were Mr. Minnesota in 1999? That's fantastic. Quite an accomplishment!
What voltage does the hybrid unit expect from the solar panels?
It needs between 80 volts and 380 volts of DC power from the solar panels. And then, if you want to plug in the alternating current, it needs from 110 volts to 240 volts for that. Solar will always be prioritized.
When will you offer 24BTU Units?
Get in touch at comfort@airspool.com.
Is this comparable to the eg4 units?
Yes. We've updated a few things, such as putting in more extensive installation instructions and videos by native English speakers, plus included the power cord, Allen wrench, and MC4 disconnect tools. We also have a Quick 'n' Easy option, which allows you to twist-to-connect both the pre-charge refrigerant lines for this option as well as the communication control cable. Plus, the included alternating current power cord is pre-installed on this model. So, the connection process takes less than 5 minutes. And for both the standard and Quick 'n' Easy model, there is a one-year buy-and-try guarantee, so you can return it for a whole year, no questions asked. Speaking of questions, we are at the ready to answer any installation questions and to give real-time support.
Only 22 seer2. ?
Yes. This is optimized to be 22 SEER2. We could add more coil, but then it adds more expensive, and since it's running off of solar for free during the day anyway...
I don't agree that if your off grid the bybrid unit is inherently better, I would ague the DC battery system is better because you are already going to have batteries, yes it means a larger battery system, but if your off grid like your going to need those extra batteries and solar pannels anyway, if you have all the solar pannels connected to the battery it will recharge the battery as there is energy drawn by the air conditioner and the hybrid system if your going to be using the inverter means your going to be converting DC to AC to DC which those 2 conversions will only be at best 95% efficent so your going to be consuming more power from the batteries anyway.
Your kinda just bullshiting here that that is a inherently better solution, sure 48V motors may be more expensive to replace, and maintaining LFP batteries with communication is also BS because they auto balance and have like 5000 cycles at a 2C rate, where generally for solar your going to peek at a 0.5C rate so your probably going to get more than those 5000 cycles to 80% capacity. Maybe if we were talking lead acid batteries that could be a bit cumbersume, but LFP batteries with which can talk to each other nope.
I think if the stars are aligned, and you have a 48-volt battery array and your mppt can allow more than 160 volts or whatever so that you can add more panels without an upgrade, then yes, a 48-volt system would be a great option. In general for most, those units cost more and they need more gear to run. For a lot of folks, even off gridders, it's easy to pick up a couple of extra panels and plug those directly into a hybrid unit, since, in effect, it has its own separate mppt, so you don't need to worry about bogging down your existing system or how adding a relatively major appliance will affect it. Anyway, there will be more and more DC nanogrids in the future, because lots of folks are going off grid, or at least wanting to, and because units like these solar air conditioners, electric vehicles, computers, televisions, are inherently DC to run directly off solar without inversion and rectification, and because the cost of solar is continuing to decrease while the cost of grid power continues to increase while at the same time the trustworthiness and predictability of the grid is decreasing. There will be different DC nodes for different voltage values, and less power will need to be put through the inverter.
@@airspool You need a minium charge voltage of 65V to charge a 48V battery as you need 5V over the battery voltage to charge it and 48V batteries maxium state of charge can be as high as 59V, realistically you should be 50% over that figure for the maxium opperating voltage so ~97.5V, after that if your not over the amperage limit you can add as many strings as you want and honestly overpanneling is a thing so even if you are over the amperage the charge controller can provide it's still fine it just means while yes you wont get more performance at the peek of each day all the rest of the time you will get extra capacity. And I would like to point out that you can get to ~97.5V maxium opperating voltage with 3 x 425W pannels.
Also you can just add another MPPT to your batteries and a victron 150V/35A only costs like $150 which can handle 4S2P of the specific pannels I am looking at so 3400W of solar, MPPT costs are not really a big deal when your going to be spending $1000 on those pannels, and yes you can use muliple charge controller in parallel. Also you can add a cut off switch to the postive that goes to the heatpump to cut it off when it reaches 40% state of charge or so.
I just don't see it being that bigger pain than running it off the inverter, like if your going to have to install extra solar anyway I would like to be able to take that solar capacity when the unit is not cooling and do other things with it rather than the system I added only being a drain on my main system and an extra drain at that because as I said you have to ad the DC to AC to DC conversion losses ontop.
Like if your ongrid and you don't have any other solar system, I can see it, but for people offgrid with 48V batteries not so much.
never heard anything more confusing
Meow?
Hi how are you. I'm an electrician from ny. Where can I get this units with solar panels?? I would love to work with you, I have a nice a/c company that we can make it work together.
Hi Lui, check out airspool.com for units and distributor portal.
@Airspool how do I do the risk free trial?? Is asking for payments and not letting me do installments.
We offer buying and try for your purchase. Yes, you have to pay for the unit, but we'll refund your purchase for a full year if you're not happy with its performance.