DIY Smart Shades for Home Automation
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2019
- A good Smart Home needs automated Window Coverings. Shades to a great job of blocking out the light and the heat. With a motor some Home Automation magic and Home Assistant, they can function on their own, and be out of the way when they aren’t needed.
I’ve made some improvements to my original DIY motorized/Automated window shades. Most have to do with the way I hang the shades and having limit switches to stop them at the top and the bottom. I also a rod of PVC at the bottom to keep the shades straight.
Banggood - links:
drzzs.com/D1mini
drzzs.com/HbridgeController
drzzs.com/gearedDCmotor
drzzs.com/Resistors
Amazon - links:
D1mini - amzn.to/2SKRAvK
Motor Controller - amzn.to/2RA2HZH
Geared DC Motor - amzn.to/2Ni8Rio
Resistors - amzn.to/2LJ3xmM
Buttons - amzn.to/2Wl920y
End Stops - amzn.to/338EW0f
Bearings 608 - amzn.to/2LUgkTh
12v 1amp PS - amzn.to/2KsmF75
Aliexpress - links:
D1mini - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c5SpQQwU
Motor - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/yq9wDO0
Motor Controller - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c0pB0d6u
Resistors - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b0S4CMlE
End Stops - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b9cStUS8
Lowes.com
1” PVC - www.lowes.com/pd/1-in-x-10-ft...
½” PVC - www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pi...
Hobby Lobby - www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sew...
Code:
ESPhome file:
gist.github.com/Snipercaine/a...
Automations:
gist.github.com/Snipercaine/d...
Wiring Diagram:
docs.google.com/drawings/d/1s...
3D parts:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:378... - Навчання та стиль
You are good at this Doc, keep up the good work !!!!!!!!!
Used exactly the same system for my chicken coop. Works great. Also, with 6 blinds you could program a nice abstract clock out of it to show the time. Keep up the good work!
ooh, I like that idea. Thanks!
Amazing job!!!! I'm definitely going to try it out!!! Thank you for all your hard work and time that you put on making this videos!!!
Thanks!
Good luck
let me know how it goes.
Love it. Wish I could do that I’m sure I can do the wire side just not the computer side. But wish I could bet u have lots of cool stuff like this!!
Awesome vid, glad I came across it. Gave me a lot of good ideas for other home automation.
Love this project, we just replaced all 22 windows in our house and now need window shades. Going all out with your plans. I've got the limit switches, but as i start planning, I'm thinking of trying magnetic wired reed switches, similar to those for door alarms, or bare reed switches and cut a grove in the Sheetrock for the switch to sit in, and Spackle over. Then just place a round magnet in the end of the 1/2 inch pvc used to weight the fabric down. will let you know if it worked or not. Great project.
That's a great idea! share the results!
That looks awesome! I can only imagine how excited the Doc was when it all came together!
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Jairo Kody Instablaster :)
@Rex Alonzo Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Rex Alonzo It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Jairo Kody you are welcome :)
Love the demo. Excellent work!
Thanks!
Awesome project Doc. Well done. 👋👍
Hey man! Thanks!
Super satisfying demo.
BTW, D0 is actually GPIO16 and on the ESP8266 it has a special command to activate a pulldown resistor for it. pinMode(16, INPUT_PULLDOWN_16), it doesn't have the option for a pullup.
Wonder if that special command is baked into ESPHome?
Hello Mr DrZzs Thanks for all your share works,
The shades look great, thanks.
Thanks!
I've had to tweak the locations of the sensors and I've had a couple of my 3d parts break, so still not a 100% perfect solution. I talked to a friend at work that said he paid $1000 for automated shades like this! I win!
Hey Doc, this it's great, I'm building a pergola, and I'm thinking to install a canopy and some shades/courtains, I hope you can give me so insights on how to calculate the power of the motor I need to run on the canopy
Fantastic Work
Thanks!
Great teacher. Thanks
You're welcome!
Man love the shades.
Thanks. MrsZzs does too.
Hi Doc. I found that glass no reed switches work great as end stops. I just hot glue tiny magnet on the shade to close the reed switch and stop shade motor. Just an idea 😉
I tried reed switches but mine weren't reliable. Maybe I had bad ones or just didn't put them in the right location.
Glad you had success with it.
Man.. Jealous of the Project and that View! Not sure which I'm more jealous of though.. Great sound with the Wireless Mic Doc!
Thanks Carlo!
The view is amazing. I hate to cover it up, but the sun just bakes that room in the mornings.
Loving the mics too. :)
DrZzs the independent control gives you a lot of options though to keep the views when you are home. You might want to make an automation that tracks presence. Lower the shades when the house is empty in the day. Saves money and adds some security.
For your manual control buttons (the D3 input for example), is there any reason why you didn't use the "mode: INPUT_PULLUP" in the definition of that pin, as you did do it for the limit switches?
Great job Dr!, I’m definitely do that, I was searching different ways to do the same, but I think this way is the best!... Why not use mangetic sensors BTW?
Thanks!
I tried using reed switches but they weren't sensitive enough. Maybe I just had crappy ones, but I had less misses with the Flapper switches.
Wow, just what I was looking for.
On my first purchased home computer, they used clear silicon caulk to hold the boards into the PC style motherboard. Even after shipping across the country and all the boards were still seated!
hot snot! hadn't heard that before. I like it :)
Hi Dr Zzs, that 5v pin on a D1mini is best used as 5v out. If you use it as a 5v in, you run the risk of frying it if the 5v is unregulated, which happened to me. Powering the D1 via its USB is safe because there is a small resistor on the board which regulates the current and is the safest way unless you know for sure that the 5v you are putting in is current regulated to a safe level for the board. Hope this helps, cheers!
thanks. ya, I should probably use NodeMCU more since it has a pin for Vin.
@DrZzs, so the power line runs from a wall outlet up the sides of each sill to the controllers?
Hi Man i want to thank you for the chance we have to see you explain thet tuto it s been a while i m looking for something like that clear explaned man thatks again i have a question if i want to do it by myselfe i m pretty handy and like tech i want use one gear motor then the diagram is the same right and i need the 3d printed accessories how could i get that
Nice. I've been looking for a good solution that doesn't cost much. All the other decent solutions cost close to $100 or more per window, and like everyone else, I think they're going to want more than just one or two motorized window shades around the house. Keep up the good work!
thanks
I've got a better solution coming soon. Stepper motors using ESPhome. Should be more reliable, won't need end-stop switches, can be set to % open, should be quieter and faster.
@@DrZzsA stepper motor for precision ! What a great idea ! I'll try it for sure !
I'm a farmer looking for a solution to open or close the shades of my greenhouses. Your projects will be so useful for my work's daily routine tasks, thank you. Those motors controllers can handle 220v ? I'll may have to add a 24v to 220v relay on it ? It won't require any other change ?
Your videos are so well made and give me hope to automate my greenhouses. Next step I'll try to automate the irrigation with 8 relays & solenoid valves
Thanks and gratitude from France
very nice. now i have a new project thanks for the vid
Good luck with it! Let me know if you have trouble.
Great project!
Unless you want the shades to be down when is is raining/overcast, you can use the A0 input on one of the D1Mini's, a LDR and a 10k resistor to measure actual light.
Would make it a bit smarter. Would add maybe 1-2 dollars to the total cost, though :)
That's a great idea. I've got some light sensors just sitting around too. I'll have to try that.
@@DrZzs Great! A suggestion would of course be putting in a deadband (or maybe a delay_off?) for those partly cloudy days when the sun say hello and goodbye all day long.
Excellent!
Thanks!
I find it amazing that all 6 blinds went up exactly at the same time and velocity! Thanks to mqtt and superb quality of the motor... I'm guessing? Or did you have to somehow calibrate it to sync up the speed of the motors by varying...the voltage?
Very satisfying to watch them move in sync!
How long PVC do you think would work? I have one big window that is 250cm wide and 160cm tall. Could the motor and PVC tube work, no bending or anything?
Another method to measure blinds are up or down could be to use roller micro switches on the blind itself. When the blind is fully roller out the tube will be X thick and microswitch 1 will be full extended. When blind is up and at max thickness microswitch 2 will closed.
Or some kinda cam lobe or arm that extends and touches a microswitch as the motor turns.
All to reduce visual impact.
👍 For another DIY Project!
Thanks AZA!
Awesome!!!
Thanks!
Hey DOC great job as ever, but the resistors you use what resistant value are you using?
4.7k, but I don't think it's too important what size you use. Just has to be high enough that there's 3v when the pin isn't grounded.
I am in love with this project!! How did I miss this? What about a stepper motor or something that might not need a sensor, would you know how to do that?
B McD I'm not positive but i think you would just need to figure out either the timings or how to send a number of rotations (which might just be how long does it stay on)
You could, in the 3D printed adapter that attaches to the motor drive have three holes spaced around the circumference in which you place 3 neodymium magnets. Then mounted on the motor drive box have a KY-024 Linear Hall Magnetic sensor connected to the esp to count the pulses as it rotates. With a bit of programing you would have a pulse encoded blind.
I am trying to do this down to a single window. I have everything wired up on the left side of the D1mini but the motor only seems to spin when I have the button pressed on the box. I have not tried putting ESPHome or anything on the mini. Do you have any tips or documentation I could reference to try and figure this out? Thanks
As always you blown my mind.can't use some configuration from blinds and using time to stop the shades? Check it ; ) or I will when i return from holidays
You should consider using only the top end stop and use timing control for a virtual lower end stop. That way, the fabric stays nice and flat rather than getting wrinkly from sitting on the lower end stop. Use the top end stop to stop the curtain and reset the calculated position of the curtain. Would also allow for a cleaner install because you don't need the lower end stop that is rather awkwardly placed. The upper ones nearly disappear.
The ideal would of course be a servo, a stepper or a rotary encoder for position, but that's obviously also a higher cost. :)
Your motors are rather slow, so it might not be of interest to you, but if you want a nice "show off" effect, you should time the time from the upper curtains going down fully plus the delay that the curtain would have to reach the starting position (upper end stop) of the lower curtain, if it could travel that far, and then only start the lower curtain after the top one is fully closed. Same for opening, just opposite; the upper curtain only starts after the lower one would raise to that level. It gives a nice continuous effect to both the look of the curtains and the amount of daylight entering. In programming, this is best achieved by essentially treating the two curtains above each other as one long curtain, so that manual commands also work in the elegant way. :)
For automation there are two basic options; interior vs exterior light level, which is typically implemented for privacy and to avoid window reflections when inside. The other option is GPS calculated sun position, to also take into account that the sun moves sideways on the sky across seasons. :) The latter is primarily used to reduce solar radiation (heat) inside, and to avoid unwanted glare from the sun, e.g. when watching TV or having a conversation around the dining table.
If you do the above/below control I mentioned, you can combine it with a gradual sun elevation control to really effectively and very comfortably avoid glare from the sun while still getting as much daylight as possible. You do this by finding the lower and upper sun elevations that you want to shade, and which curtain positions these should result in, and then simply scale those two sets of values to form an position. Remember to set a minimum stationary timer or a minimum deviation between calculated vs desired position to prevent the curtains from slightly moving all the time to avoid damage to the motor. Something like 2-5 % minimum difference to move typically works well to ensure fluid controls but also not constant motion.
Hope it helps and inspires.
Great ideas!
I love the idea of timing them so they look like one big shade lifting and lowering.
Hi, I already have a motorized awning (220 v ac) with limit switches already fitted in the motor. I really like your project and I thought of using it for my awning (and also for electric shutters). I think I should use a 2-channel relay module, but without the need to use limit switches. What changes should be made to your software? (I'm not a programmer).
Thank you very much and congratulations for your great project.
I'd have to know exactly how you have stuff connected to tell you what changes to make to the code.
What I'd suggest is to lay it out on your desk, all connected, and tinker with the ESPhome code until you get the function you want.
@@DrZzs 481/5000
Hi Dr., sorry for being late, but I've been busy and away from home.
Thanks for your reply, I send you the wiring diagram I'm thinking of to raise and lower my awning.
docs.google.com/drawings/d/1P8Y-hySK9o9UdMBQ6tXkHzCSeSL1vmKaDrJNXhNWhKU/edit?usp=sharing
I have already tried to review your "shades_v2_esphome.yaml" sketch, but without success (this is my first experience with Homeassistant and ESPhome).
Thank you for your kindness and good work.
hi doc! how did you select your motor? empirically? random (and it works!)? trial (and much errors)? calculated (like an engineer)? on a budget? approved by WAF? BTW, I'm gonna try to mount some rulers alongside the curtain ...
Basically a guess at required torque. I little trial and error on some other projects like the blinds and window openers. And price. There are stronger faster motors, but they cost 3x as much.
What 3d printer do you use?
1000th like is mine🤩🤩🤩🤩
Like the project and when i move into our new home soon it will be used :)
Only thing for me is the install pinches a nerve lol, looks messy with all the exposed wiring and stops. Will have to definitely address that
ya, I need to get some molding to cover the wires.
put two magnets at the lover end and one at the top end of the cloth.
Two door/window sensors at the printed motor enclosure and get the position accordingly to that.
get rid of the riddicilous wiring and try using only one 8x0.22 alarm cable for each shade, only 4mm in diameter.
Besides - brusshless dc motors are way more quieter :)
I have just started this project ordered parts online and 3D printer has been busily working away.
I totally agree with you wiring up to microswitches on window sill is not WIFE friendly, those niggles and sighes of disapproval..
Plus it just makes total sense to use 433Mhz wireless door sensors I seen them on ebay for $5.71AUD ($2..USD).
KING off DIY
ha!
Thanks!
Genius!
thanks!
Awesome tutorial always. Wouldn't be better if you have Dr.Zzs letter individually written on each curtain? 😀
hah! yes it would!
I'll take them down and start embroidering them :)
Hello, I just got the motors for the shades. I am using 23rpm (lowest one) and it does not provide and holding torque on 3/4 way down it rolls down freely. I even removed the bottom 1/2" pvc. And when roll up it does not have power at all. I use same parts and my windows is 38" width. I did not have 10rpm motor as your video. Is there a better motor to use that has more power and holding torque?
I figured it out that is the 1 inch motor end, the middle shaft connect to the motor is loose so it just keep roll down freely. I make one windows with 2x50rpm on each sides to make it more torque. Thanks for all your details ESPHome codes. It works great so far.
Have you considered using a stepper motor instead? to avoid top and bottom switch ..
Or is it intentionally not using a stepper motor? and why? I have ordered parts to test it with a stepper motor myself
I wanted to use steppers. So far I haven't had good luck getting steppers to work well with ESPhome or Tasmota, and since I don't have the skills to write my own arduino code I'm limited to those options.
Steppers would me a good solution if I could get them to behave :)
16:23 hahahahahaha you are the best, Dr!!
Thanks :)
we gotta have some fun!
What's the amperage of your 12VDC power supply? and no specific value for the resister? like 5k ohms is fine?
I'm using 12v 1 amp PS. amzn.to/2KsmF75
the resistor I used is 4.7k.
Impressive
Thanks!
15:16 What do you think about to use instead the end switch some timer based model. I mean when you are open the shade, you definitely know the time needed to down the shade. So in this case you need less switches , wires and more simple install. Even don't say about small children, that love to experiment with small clicking buttons )
Maybe for going down, but going up I would recommend the end stops. I had them with just timing at first but they are never exactly perfect on timing, so after a few cycles of open/close they get farther and farther from the correct end point.
@@DrZzs Exactly what I mean. The upper end switch will correct the state every time.
I have been looking for something like this, but for Venetian blinds. I do not need/want switches or stopper switches - I just need to tilt the blinds. That's it.
I tried to use this code, but the switches and stoppers as so intermixed into the logic - that I totally loose track of what is what and what to keep and what to remove.
You do not perhaps have simpler code that can just spin the motor in each direction (to control the blind tilt) and that can be controlled from Home Assistant. I do not even want to pull the blind up or down, just tilt it in both directions.
Thanks
Best way to tilt the blinds is to connect a servo to the tilt mechanism. I did a blinds video a long time ago. ESPhome has a pretty easy to use Servo function. I'll actually be talking about using a servo with ESPhome in my next stream (hopefully tonight). There will be an edited shortened re-cap later too.
Hope that helps.
@DrZzs How did you setup 'Entities' in Panel iFrame?
It's just a shortcut to the states page. Not as necessary now with the Dev tools menu button.
@@DrZzs True, still one less click though!
Why do you not using steppermotors en calculate the steps needed so you don't need the endstops? With steppers you can just open the shades for 20% for example.
True. The reason I haven't used steppers is because they are not easy to use with ESPhome or Tasmota and I'm not savvy enough to write an Arduino sketch to control them and integrate them with Home Assistant.
Maybe v3 :)
Looks good as always. I'm fairly new to the whole esp thing and how to upload it on the wemos, gonna take a look if I can decifer the intro for esp.
Then the next step is to see if I can make the code working for only one (1) shade.
Thanks again:)
hit me up on discord and I'll share my single shade code with you. www.discord.me/drzzs
Hi Dr, try 1 inch copper plumbing pipe. 😃😃
Get a few hall sensors and a few magnets, install a hall sensor near the top (or near the motor) and a magnet at the bottom of the shades, so when shade is max open sensor is triggered (like an end stop). Now the way my code behaves is like this, first time running you have to calibrate, go to max open position (trigger endstop) and than use app or buton to max close the shade and mark it calibrated and write its curent position, max movement from top to closed position into spiffs, since only problem now is a power failure when motor is moving I do the following whenever the shade motor is moving a bool is written into spiffs when motor reached desired position the bool is changed and curent position updated again, if power fails while motor running on startup the shades will automatically calibrate: go to open position until it trigger the hall sensor and go back to the desired position. Since I installed this I had zero failures and less wires (only power to the controller box)
that's a good idea. I'll have to find another window now to try that on.
Would it be difficult to add a rotation sensor to record the percent open or closed?
Bob-a-FET just get an encoder
Is that something I can add to my motors, or do I have to buy the motor with an encoder built in?
Great project. Great end result.
These may be a drop in replacement for the one you used.
[US$14.99 22% OFF]Machifit JGY-370 DC 12V 10/30/90/150RPM Motor Reduction Gear Turbine Worm Self-locking Encoder Signal Feedback Motor
banggood.app.link/ZSeNp0JeQY
could this be modified for three windows?
where is the power plugin?
Depending on how you modify it I'm sure you could. Just ask this question on the discord server and lots of people would be able to help you out.
Got into issues where one of my D1 mini stopped working completely. The LED lights up when pressing the push button, but no conenction to wifi and not response from button presses. You heard of any one else that had that issue?
The best way to get help is to join the discord server linked in the description in my videos.
These look great. Been looking for automated blinds and these look like I have to go no futher.
Now to show the boss. WAF could kill this project.
Anyway keep up the good work.
good luck!
I need to do a better job of hiding the wires.
Let me know if you hit snags. I've been trying to perfect this for like 6 months.
Mark Smith wives love privacy this one has to have have higher WAF
I bought 25RPM motors for the ones I'm making. Also got a faster one to turn a threaded rod to open a sliding window.
good choice. Mine could be faster for sure.
What motor did you get for the sliding window? It's always tricky to work out what speed/ torque will work best without a lot of trial and error
@@pangit9999 good question. I can't recall. It's the same type of small high torque as the others. I took how many cms i needed the window to open and how many threads/cm there was on the rod and worked out how quickly it needed to turn for a speed that wasn't painfully slow. It's still trial and error though but I can swap the motor out if I need something beefier. I still haven't put it together yet.
Great video :D! But why do you need the stop switch? Here is what I've been doing, I know that the shades will go up and down to a specific place, so I had a stopwatch and calculated how long does it take to fully open and close, and simply have the esp8266 count the time until the time elapse, then it just stops because it knows it reached 100%, you can have one stop switch to calibrate the timing to be accurate everytime. That way you can have a slider for the shade, want the shade to close in the middle? Have it stop at half the time it takes to fully close. No need for extra switches :)
You always need a limit switch. First of all for safety if the code gone crazy for example. Actually the limit switches shall be user to disable the motor driver directly.
Second you cant depend on a timet only since every time you will probably get a delay which will be accumelated.
@@3adelz90 which is why there is one switch on top, to re-calibrate the time and avoid the delay, but in all honesty if the ESP8266 is the one dealing with the timing, there wont be much of a delay since it's the one controlling the motors, beside there is little chance of the code messing up.
What if the power is interrupted while opening or closing the blind and it stops in the middle? The power is restored and now you need to move the shade up or down. Pressing the up button causes it to run for the full opening time and jams the blind or damages the motor or damages the motor controller or the 3D printed drive parts. Pressing the down button does the same in the opposite direction because it tries to run past the bottom.
@@leglessinoz and this is why I suggested having one switch which is either top or below, the way I did it is whenever power is back on it would go to that switch that way its recalibrated and ready to go
@@MrTracker1995 At first I was thinking the same as the other guys eg you can't perfectly time it, but I like that your thinking is not limited by convention. The part where IF this (eg power goes out) THEN return to switch to re-calibrate ELSE continue as normal.
The code then needs to take into account mains voltage perhaps coz some countries/areas the power grid is not always constant maybe the motor could go slower or faster so you could take reading from a sensor that monitors your main voltage eg Sonoff POW R2 and IF voltage < 210V return to base to re-calibrate.
Make it work with Xlights and make a crazy sequence :)
up down up down to the beat. ha!
How can I learn to do this as someone who knows nothing about any of this
I would suggest to start using home assistant. I've started 3 months ago. And I'm learning a lot and I don't need to search everything on the internet anymore. This motor things are still to complicated for me though.
How did you suddenly make your wife (I presume) disappear at @11:21 That was magic.
Anyway, it is also possible to use the limit switches without them being attached to an input pin. They need to go in series with the motor and be bridged by a diode. but then you would lose your feedback to your homeautomatics system
Cost?
I'm pretty sure I listed the cost at the end. I recall it being about $15-20 per window, depending on what materials you use.
other 10 out 10 well I used that motor control for my cat feeder
that's awesome. would love to see how you did it.
github.com/MYLE-01/catFeeder
Awesome Video! You Rock. Got from zero to hero in just 1 afternoon; fastest time putting together my breadboard to test. Anyway, because of latest ESPHome updates, it turns out plain stop() is being deprecated in favor of a call to set_command_stop(). and perform() on top of that, so you might get a warning upon compilation (part of upload); picky bastards!! I guess with efficiency, sophistication goes up.
Anyway the lines that call for .stop() inside Lambdas section need to be modified to .make_call().set_command_stop().perform(); for example:
// shade is closing
id(mw_left_upper).stop();
needs to be:
// shade is closing
id(mw_left_upper).make_call().set_command_stop().perform();
Same goes for .open() and .close() lines, just change the verb, ie: set_command_open
Hope this help the next tinker stumbling upon this ESPHome compiler warning.
If you have to resort to Hot Glue to hold your pin headers and jumpers together.. OMG just solder the wires! It will be some more compact without all those pins sticking out in all directions. If you're gonna use a 3D printer to fabricate boxes, then soldering wires isn't that high a bar for people..
I see your point. If I had more time I'd solder everything.
With a little bit more logic in the code you could have used one input per blind for end stops in parallel.
So one end stop would stop all the shades when pressed?
That's an interesting idea. Tell me more.
@@DrZzs still have 2 end stops but have them wired in parallel to one input. The code would just listen for the one input for both directions. Would save 2 inputs per D1 mini then. So you could drop the one with the pullup resistor for instance.
Getto
Turn your switch 90 degrees on the bottom and it will hit every time.
I'm totally going to do that. I have one that has missed the bottom a few times.
Thanks for the tip!
Why not use 1 wire for each side of the end stop, you know the direction you were going, hits the endstop, stop.
I find this video a bit.. shady..
ah, Dad jokes :)
Next: Use stepper motors instead, so you can skip the end stops.
I tried steppers but couldn't get them to work well with ESPhome.
Reed switches would have looked so much better, instead of ugly contacts....
For the limit switch? Do you have the link?
Too expensive. I guess if you can spend whatever you want.
man, if you can find a cheaper way to do it, I'd love to see it.
@@DrZzs There are a hundred way to do it cheaper, might not be as cool but still functional.
DrZzs on Steroids
I'm pumped!
I can't believe you wife lets you keep those, no offense but it looks horrible.
She doesn’t complain. Hiding wires is one thing I’d like to do better. What else do you hate about it?
Just the wires really and the switch sticking out.
I agree. I hate the wires. Someone suggested using a hall-effect sensor and a magnet on the roller to count the revolutions. Really, a stepper motor would eliminate all that, but I don't know how to get a stepper working with ESPhome or Tasmota and I don't speak fluent Arduino , so I'm stuck with those options.