@silver cymbal do you recommend the landzie aerator? there are models online a half and a third the price. i want one that actually works good. what is your thoughts?
Great video! I just wanted to throw in that this applies more to cool season grasses. Those of us in the south get to do this in the spring because the growth cycle for warm season grasses is different. Still enjoy your content and learn something new every time though.
I just did my lawn last week and boy was my body sore after aerating, using a drop spreader for seeding might be a better option so the grass goes straight down instead of scattering, either way will work obviously, those Jonathan green bags aren’t cheap. Great video!
Good quality grass seed is much better value than your standard Scott's or other cheap seed. It costs more up front but you'll save money on water, fertilizer, and other maintenance tasks. Not to mention it simply looks far superior.
JG Black Beauty just came out with a California specific blend. I tried regular black beauty in Southern California and it did okay, but when I saw that they came out with a California specific blend I tried it out and it came out wonderfully! Thanks for the recommendation
I just moved into a recently built house in central Virginia , never was into lawn care until now… your channel has been a huge motivator! I see a lot on over seeding existing lawns and that’s kinda where I’m at. What I thought to be a yard as a novice is seeming more and more like it’s just full of all weeds. I did an overseed Once and I used millorganite and a antifungal product because I noticed disease spots.I was able to Patch up some bare spots with tall fescue with absolutely amazing results and would like to see that across the entire yard. It’s only late oct and I’ve put nearly 2 big bags of Scott’s 2x on my yard since fall kicked off. With my existing yard condition I really have been just applying the seed and watering it. I did add a light coat of topsoil and cramped it all on top of the products. I have the groundskeeper 2 rake and I try to loosen up the soil on top prior to anything. I tried removing as much thatch/ clippings as I could with it. Do I need to scalp my yard in the fall or wait until spring to apply a pre emergent and do weed control. I think a lot of my yard would disappear and with small children I don’t want a lot of dirt for long. Should I just ensure I have the entire yard covered with seed until next year and it will come in and smother. This is my first go round. I do have some sort of rhizomatic grass in one area that I’d like to make tall fescue how do I go about that. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!
@@hasansfamily1898 That video will be up by the weeend, just finishing some final details. I am so excited to share it, its very cool how it turned out.
With your way-cool new shed and ANOTHER lawn renovation under your belt, I can't believe that some savvy lawn equipment company hasn't sent you a core aerator of your own. They'd be wise to do so. 👍😁 Great content as always SC, you are a beacon of knowledge in an uncertain world!
@@donlarsenjr2332 Yes I did and made a video on their used equipment bargains, I traded it later towards this one which is smaller for storage but isn't as self propelled.
Jonathan Greene seed is awesome. Used it last year and this spring with fantastic results. Germinates quickly, fills in nice and thick and has a deep green color.
I think you follow him, but The Lawncare Nut also stated that if you cant rent an Aerator to try some of the liquid Aerator that you spray on. With that mix, you can also add Tenacity at the exact same time as your seeding. This will prevent weeds from growing for a few months while the seed germinates. Pretty cool stuff which I'm going to do this weekend.
First off, I love the LCN and haven't seen that video so please do your own research but many liquid aerators interfere with new seed germination and are not supposed to be used with new seed so I would be certain the one use choose doesn't have that interaction. I had good experience with liquid aeration for general use but for overseeing the mechanical method shown here will guarantee great results. Choose your own way but the technique I shared 3 years which is the same principle as this video has been used so many times with fantastic results I would give it a try.
Go Billy Goat. I'm buying the same one next year. This aerator is awesome for the homeowner. Easy to maneuver, not like the classens or Ryan, very heavy and difficult to turn.
If you have clay soil and want to amend it over time, you must remove the cores. You don’t want to leave the clay cores on the lawn to breakdown and return to the soil. Also, if you are amending clay soil, add pool sand over the entire lawn each time you re seed in September. It will help amend the soil as it allows water & air to flow around it due to its shape
Doing this now... de thatched, now going to aerate, over seed and fertilize. Any tips for seeding a large bare spot where white pines once stood? I had 5 white pines removed last fall.. hoping to seed now.. but I’m afraid of the PH from the pine needles.
Thats great, those spots could have different PH and you could test it but honestly I would just overseed those areas and see how it does. You won't cause any problems and it's easy and it may do very well. Wait one season then test your lawn as a whole and make adjustments as needed.
Great video! Followed the steps about 3 weeks ago tenacity, aerator, over seed with all pro teammates, starter fertilizer. Was excited to see grass growing out of the little holes! A lot of the clover survived the tenacity though to my surprise. What should be my first step in the spring for weed control? Keep up the great content!
One thing I always struggle with when overseeding an existing lawn When is best to mow? Usually between starter fertilizer, water and cooler temps, the existing grass grows like crazy , and it's a balance between letting the existing lawn grow too much and not giving the new seed enough time to germinate Any recommendations?
The truth is this totally depends on what kind of seed you are overseeding… quick example.. KGB will take a week or two longer then any other grass type. Rule of thumb: 1.5-2 weeks just be observant and look at the new seedlings..if they are mostly about 3-4 inches tall then you are totally safe to mow. Just remember waiting a little longer is ALWAYS better then mowing too early when seeding a new lawn or ovwrseeding. Good luck I hope this helps P.s it’s not that big of deal if you existing lawn get a little over grown… you don’t want wait I’ll it’s 10 inch tall but it will recover much better then new seed cut to early
I have seen many of your lawn videos ( which I appreciate alot for a newbie) and from a distance in your videos your lawn looks great and thick. But when you grabbed the sprinkler stakes your lawn still looks thin. I have seen the one video where you took it from "ugly" looking to green. Question is how many years have you been aerating and overseeing. Do you do it every year?? Thanks for the videos on lawns and other topics.
Any tips from anyone on starting a lawn? I'm buying a house and a section of the yard was a big garden that was cleared but has become over grown with weeds and some hay. I don't know much about yards yet besides watching youtube videos. My current plan of action for next year after winter is clear all the brush, till it, apply seed and possibly the weed killer Silver Cymbal mentioned in another video thats safe for grass seeds and sprouts.
you can borrow ours at work, we can do 1/4inch spikes to 2inch cores, you'll need a john Deere 6155M, good advice, now to get rid of my grass grub infestation that the birds put holes in my lawn all winter long
A question for you, sir: I have high spots in my yard that I'd like to bring down while avoiding having to completely remove the sod to level the entire yard. While I will likely remove some near the sidewalks and driveway where the lawn seems to be, in certain spots, high enough that there are 3-4 inches of dirt above the pavement when I edge, I'd like to avoid having to dig up the center of the yard. There are other spots, where some trees were removed by the previous owner, that remain as very slight mounds in the yard. Can I use a core aerator and bag the cores (or simply collect them after the fact) in these areas to bring down the height over time (2 aerations a year, maybe over a couple years). Possibly making an extra pass over these areas each time as well? I'd rather they be low than high, low spots would seem easier to deal with. What are your thoughts, do you have any advice? Or am I essentially stuck with these high spots?
I'm thinking about doing the same. Heavily aerate the high spots, and rake the cores into the low ones. Probably both Spring and Fall for a couple years. You could also bag the clippings in the high spots and leave 'em in the low spots.
Great video as usual. I really enjoy your content and have done several DIY projects based on your advice. I’m planning on redoing my lawn per your guidance, As you’ve suggested; I was planning to start with Tenacity to kill the weeds, then aerate/seed/fertilize. Question: Based on what I’m hearing in this video, should I forgo using Tenacity, and go straight to aerating/seeding/fertilizing? Just want do things in the proper order as to not have anything competing against the other. Many thanks!
I would definitely dethatch, then aerate, then reseed. This way you will get the highest chance for germination of the seed and you’ll get a healthier lawn.
I want to do this but I have an issue with clovers, crabgrass and maybe some dandelions. What should be my first step? Never mind I just saw the link at the end.
Why do you recommend black beauty ultra over the other grass seeds? There's some manufacturers that infuse starter fertilizer in the seed that I have been trying. Just asking because I get little to no results growing grass.
I’m a little confused with your weed advice. If I have weeds, just go ahead and follow your lawn renovation steps? Then wait until spring to deal with the weeds? That way I’ll already have new grass growing too?
Depends on how many weeds you have currently. If it’s a lot, you can go ahead and spray tenacity (using the video link SC linked) now at the same time or 2-3 weeks before seeding. Tenacity doesn’t affect new seed.
I have heard some people talking about those with decent results. I haven't personally tried one yet. I try to limit controls liek that to as little as possible, so I am tend to be more of a post treat type person.
I love the vids !! Watch them all right away! I live in Ny and overseeded 11 days ago with black beauty ultra . I cut the yard short ,but still my existing lawn is like 6 inches tall and the new bluegrass is 1. Can I mow this weekend? (6 days from now ) and just cut high ? Or do I need to wait ?
Ideally you would hold off on mowing as long as you can but keep in mind that the wheels from your mower will only touch a small part of the total lawn so I know it probably look really bad right, so yes you can but it will hurt some of the new seed but you will not wipe all your work out, so to keep your sanity and a decent looking space I would say mow it and try to just mow every two weeks after to give it as much chance as posible.
Your lawn looks great!! Flagging your sprinkler heads are essential when dethatching or aerating your lawn. I was wondering what your thoughts were on using the Starter Fertilizer again on your second application. Lawn is not that big 3k sqft and the bag covers 12k sqft. I don't think it would be a problem, but wanted to see your thoughts.
Do you recommend starting this process by a certain date in the Fall? I live in Northeastern PA. And if not reseeding, but simply core aerating and applying a winter fertilizer, when would you suggest as a cutoff date before it's considered too late? Thank you!
I have a relatively small lawn and previously tried a manual aerator that did nothing but get stuck. Yes, I tried several times following the directions on wetting the lawn first. A couple cores might come out and then 10-15 minutes trying to dig the stupid stuck core out. Was a pain in the *ss. I like the design of this one with a little window and slope to guide the core out. In your opinion, do you think this Landzie aerator might work better?
Can i use quick-lime at the same time of seeding and starter fertilizer? Bag says its ok when seeding but not sure of the results when adding starter fertilizer also
I really appreciate that. This summer was VERY tough here in Mass so it defintiely needs some help. If my lawn was doing amazing, I might do it every other year. Or if you are trying to migrate to one variety/brand of seeds its good to do it annually. So you dont have to but it's usually a very god thing. Hope this helps.
As long as you can tolerate. The good part is that grass in the aeration holes will be safe from the mower until its tall. So personally I will mow about a week later maybe 2 weeks if I can wait and you will damage some new seed but plenty will still grow.
Living in the northern latitudes like you, do you know how late overseeding can be done? I'm asking because I need to coordinate my sprinkler blowouts. Also, I like to aerate as late as possible, like October, because I like to put down a final low nitrogen fertilizer before November.
I have an old video on it, I never had the results others did, despite using huge amounts of it. If you look close most of the super fans have all backed off on it since they were essentially telling you to apply 5x+ the amount rated on the bags and I think there were concerns of pollution from phosphate run off. I wasted so much time and money hauling so much of it, I will never use it again. Sorry I know its not the story that others had but I think there are better options and a lot less material.
Thanks for another great video. I was about to apply Duocide based on your other video and some yellow patching I've noticed in my lawn. Do you have a recommendation on which should be done first?
Thank you. You could do them all at the same time as the duocide doesn't interact with seed or these steps, but the sooner the better with the insect control, then you can do the overseeding work when you can. Insects are awful this year.
I traded it towards the one here. This has the benefit of being really small for storage but it is not nearly as self propelled, with my slopes its a bear.
I just went through this as well, and funny enough, I did the exact steps as you to mark my arrogation system. In my case I have LOADS of crabgrass which I sprayed with tenacity a couple weeks back, but I may not have used enough since crabgrass remains. Think I should wait till spring while I let my seed germinate, or a second round of tenacity this fall?
10/15/21 Update - the seed that I planted this fall took well, so I'm likely going to skip seeding in the spring and therefore go with a standard Scott's pre-emergent. @@colleencatalano3547 only issue here is that I may want to put down more seed in the spring, so I wouldn't want to use a pre-emergent that prevents new grass growth (again, I have little actual grass currently). I've heard of tenacity being used as a pre-emergent (just need to water right after applying). Any advice against this approach?
@@s.woberts6576 I have not used tenacity because my lawn is a healthy KBG. I only overseed in Fall and then in Spring. Tenacity is about the only pre- and post-emergent that does not kill new seed (mainly because it is a naturally occurring compound. If I had weeds, I'd definitely turn to tenacity. When I started working on my lawn several years ago I did use Scotts Weed and Feed and it got rid of everything.....so, you might want to start there and then seed after 6 weeks or so. Good luck!
U forgot 1 crucial step in this process; detaching your lawn will increase germination! If you don’t do a proper detachment most of your seeds won’t germinate. IMO
Nope roots are very strong and know exactly to go downward. They can bust through any leaf or grass clippings with ease. The major problem I have seen with this is that if they’re not routed into the dirt yet water rain May wash them away. That’s just my Pinyan.
Yup your so right.Cut lawn short, dethatch, aerate, seed, fertilizer, and apply a layer of peat moss to protect seed and add seed to soil contact. I even rolled mine with a roller. Came up awesome.(nice photo)
Thanks for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Grass Seed: amzn.to/3lIla5s - Starter Fertilizer: amzn.to/3CuIvPc - Mini Aerator: amzn.to/3EBd876 - Garden Knife: amzn.to/3zpnVNS
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@silver cymbal do you recommend the landzie aerator? there are models online a half and a third the price. i want one that actually works good. what is your thoughts?
I use the agrifab tow behind aerator and it works well. Best cheap one I found if you got a riding. Plugs r so important.
Great video! I just wanted to throw in that this applies more to cool season grasses. Those of us in the south get to do this in the spring because the growth cycle for warm season grasses is different. Still enjoy your content and learn something new every time though.
Do you have a grass seed recommendation? I live in San Antonio, TX. Thanks.
I just did my lawn last week and boy was my body sore after aerating, using a drop spreader for seeding might be a better option so the grass goes straight down instead of scattering, either way will work obviously, those Jonathan green bags aren’t cheap. Great video!
Good quality grass seed is much better value than your standard Scott's or other cheap seed. It costs more up front but you'll save money on water, fertilizer, and other maintenance tasks. Not to mention it simply looks far superior.
JG Black Beauty just came out with a California specific blend. I tried regular black beauty in Southern California and it did okay, but when I saw that they came out with a California specific blend I tried it out and it came out wonderfully! Thanks for the recommendation
I just moved into a recently built house in central Virginia , never was into lawn care until now… your channel has been a huge motivator! I see a lot on over seeding existing lawns and that’s kinda where I’m at. What I thought to be a yard as a novice is seeming more and more like it’s just full of all weeds. I did an overseed Once and I used millorganite and a antifungal product because I noticed disease spots.I was able to Patch up some bare spots with tall fescue with absolutely amazing results and would like to see that across the entire yard. It’s only late oct and I’ve put nearly 2 big bags of Scott’s 2x on my yard since fall kicked off. With my existing yard condition I really have been just applying the seed and watering it. I did add a light coat of topsoil and cramped it all on top of the products. I have the groundskeeper 2 rake and I try to loosen up the soil on top prior to anything. I tried removing as much thatch/ clippings as I could with it. Do I need to scalp my yard in the fall or wait until spring to apply a pre emergent and do weed control. I think a lot of my yard would disappear and with small children I don’t want a lot of dirt for long. Should I just ensure I have the entire yard covered with seed until next year and it will come in and smother. This is my first go round. I do have some sort of rhizomatic grass in one area that I’d like to make tall fescue how do I go about that. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!
Just went through this yesterday. Solid tips.
That's awesome, the way the heat has been this year we might be having Spring tips in January! Thanks again
@@SilverCymbal I seen your video of the well. Wanna see the electrical version of the well.
@@hasansfamily1898 That video will be up by the weeend, just finishing some final details. I am so excited to share it, its very cool how it turned out.
Just started a lawn care company and this video was gold! Thanks!
I had this done, and the results were evident the next day. Air was getting into the soil as well as water. Well worth the price.
With your way-cool new shed and ANOTHER lawn renovation under your belt, I can't believe that some savvy lawn equipment company hasn't sent you a core aerator of your own.
They'd be wise to do so. 👍😁
Great content as always SC, you are a beacon of knowledge in an uncertain world!
Thank you my friend. That would be very nice!
@@SilverCymbal I thought you bought a Ryan aerator from Home Depot used equipment list.
@@donlarsenjr2332 Yes I did and made a video on their used equipment bargains, I traded it later towards this one which is smaller for storage but isn't as self propelled.
Short,sweet and to the point .Awesome channel 👍
Jonathan Greene seed is awesome. Used it last year and this spring with fantastic results. Germinates quickly, fills in nice and thick and has a deep green color.
Are you still happy with the black beauty?
Thanks for the video! You have a beautiful lawn!!
Did mine in two stages and finished two days ago. Also added Anderson’s BioChar.
Yay new video 🙌🙌
Always great content 👍
I think you follow him, but The Lawncare Nut also stated that if you cant rent an Aerator to try some of the liquid Aerator that you spray on. With that mix, you can also add Tenacity at the exact same time as your seeding. This will prevent weeds from growing for a few months while the seed germinates. Pretty cool stuff which I'm going to do this weekend.
First off, I love the LCN and haven't seen that video so please do your own research but many liquid aerators interfere with new seed germination and are not supposed to be used with new seed so I would be certain the one use choose doesn't have that interaction. I had good experience with liquid aeration for general use but for overseeing the mechanical method shown here will guarantee great results. Choose your own way but the technique I shared 3 years which is the same principle as this video has been used so many times with fantastic results I would give it a try.
Another type of seed that works amazing for me is using Lesco sun and shade mix. It works amazing and has a amazing green color to it.
Go Billy Goat. I'm buying the same one next year. This aerator is awesome for the homeowner. Easy to maneuver, not like the classens or Ryan, very heavy and difficult to turn.
I rented an acutely overseeder. It shoots the grass slightly into the soil for good contact. Works great.
What is an acutely overseeder?
@@gugion ua-cam.com/video/lwCp3aUmNnY/v-deo.html
That JG BBU is the real deal....love the seed
Always good videos.
I appreciate that
Perfect timing
An excellent guide! Nice one!
I'll be doing this soon. Thank you
Did the overseeding this past week waiting for the results, I hear different things about the black beauty grass seed
If you have clay soil and want to amend it over time, you must remove the cores. You don’t want to leave the clay cores on the lawn to breakdown and return to the soil. Also, if you are amending clay soil, add pool sand over the entire lawn each time you re seed in September. It will help amend the soil as it allows water & air to flow around it due to its shape
I disagree clay and sand make concrete! You need organic matter.
Doing this now... de thatched, now going to aerate, over seed and fertilize.
Any tips for seeding a large bare spot where white pines once stood? I had 5 white pines removed last fall.. hoping to seed now.. but I’m afraid of the PH from the pine needles.
Thats great, those spots could have different PH and you could test it but honestly I would just overseed those areas and see how it does. You won't cause any problems and it's easy and it may do very well. Wait one season then test your lawn as a whole and make adjustments as needed.
@@SilverCymbal thanks for the advice!
@@delt19 thanks, good idea.
Did my whole yard with a manual aerator. Had perennial ryegrass sprouting in 4 days.
Wow…That’s a hell of a workout. How much square feet are you working with?
@@PCConditioning about 2800 ft2. Small yard in the city but best looking on the block
forget the grass....im digging that pool!!
Great video! Followed the steps about 3 weeks ago tenacity, aerator, over seed with all pro teammates, starter fertilizer. Was excited to see grass growing out of the little holes! A lot of the clover survived the tenacity though to my surprise. What should be my first step in the spring for weed control? Keep up the great content!
Find you a 3 or 4 way herbicide that won't kill your Gras type. If your lawn is thick and you don't want to seed again look into a preamergant.
One thing I always struggle with when overseeding an existing lawn
When is best to mow? Usually between starter fertilizer, water and cooler temps, the existing grass grows like crazy , and it's a balance between letting the existing lawn grow too much and not giving the new seed enough time to germinate
Any recommendations?
The truth is this totally depends on what kind of seed you are overseeding… quick example.. KGB will take a week or two longer then any other grass type. Rule of thumb: 1.5-2 weeks just be observant and look at the new seedlings..if they are mostly about 3-4 inches tall then you are totally safe to mow. Just remember waiting a little longer is ALWAYS better then mowing too early when seeding a new lawn or ovwrseeding. Good luck I hope this helps
P.s it’s not that big of deal if you existing lawn get a little over grown… you don’t want wait I’ll it’s 10 inch tall but it will recover much better then new seed cut to early
Don’t put down fertilizer till it starts to sprout, day 10 ish, at half rate, second 1/2 a week or two later.
I have seen many of your lawn videos ( which I appreciate alot for a newbie) and from a distance in your videos your lawn looks great and thick. But when you grabbed the sprinkler stakes your lawn still looks thin. I have seen the one video where you took it from "ugly" looking to green. Question is how many years have you been aerating and overseeing. Do you do it every year?? Thanks for the videos on lawns and other topics.
Subscribed!!!!
Any tips from anyone on starting a lawn? I'm buying a house and a section of the yard was a big garden that was cleared but has become over grown with weeds and some hay. I don't know much about yards yet besides watching youtube videos. My current plan of action for next year after winter is clear all the brush, till it, apply seed and possibly the weed killer Silver Cymbal mentioned in another video thats safe for grass seeds and sprouts.
Just wrapped up my fall work, de-thatched and aerated the front and burned down and renovated the back. Looking forward to the first mow.
I love starting fresh
you can borrow ours at work, we can do 1/4inch spikes to 2inch cores, you'll need a john Deere 6155M, good advice, now to get rid of my grass grub infestation that the birds put holes in my lawn all winter long
What is the name of the privacy plants blocking your pool? Thanks
Such an awesome grass, I have a video about it and how they can be free ua-cam.com/video/CptKylzKo00/v-deo.html
Thanks brother keep up the awesome videos
A question for you, sir: I have high spots in my yard that I'd like to bring down while avoiding having to completely remove the sod to level the entire yard. While I will likely remove some near the sidewalks and driveway where the lawn seems to be, in certain spots, high enough that there are 3-4 inches of dirt above the pavement when I edge, I'd like to avoid having to dig up the center of the yard. There are other spots, where some trees were removed by the previous owner, that remain as very slight mounds in the yard. Can I use a core aerator and bag the cores (or simply collect them after the fact) in these areas to bring down the height over time (2 aerations a year, maybe over a couple years). Possibly making an extra pass over these areas each time as well? I'd rather they be low than high, low spots would seem easier to deal with.
What are your thoughts, do you have any advice? Or am I essentially stuck with these high spots?
I'm thinking about doing the same. Heavily aerate the high spots, and rake the cores into the low ones. Probably both Spring and Fall for a couple years. You could also bag the clippings in the high spots and leave 'em in the low spots.
Great video as usual. I really enjoy your content and have done several DIY projects based on your advice. I’m planning on redoing my lawn per your guidance, As you’ve suggested; I was planning to start with Tenacity to kill the weeds, then aerate/seed/fertilize. Question: Based on what I’m hearing in this video, should I forgo using Tenacity, and go straight to aerating/seeding/fertilizing? Just want do things in the proper order as to not have anything competing against the other. Many thanks!
I would definitely dethatch, then aerate, then reseed. This way you will get the highest chance for germination of the seed and you’ll get a healthier lawn.
Now did you use any lime on yard at all?
I want to do this but I have an issue with clovers, crabgrass and maybe some dandelions. What should be my first step? Never mind I just saw the link at the end.
Why do you recommend black beauty ultra over the other grass seeds? There's some manufacturers that infuse starter fertilizer in the seed that I have been trying.
Just asking because I get little to no results growing grass.
can you put down milorganite instead of starter fertilizer?
I’m a little confused with your weed advice. If I have weeds, just go ahead and follow your lawn renovation steps? Then wait until spring to deal with the weeds? That way I’ll already have new grass growing too?
Depends on how many weeds you have currently. If it’s a lot, you can go ahead and spray tenacity (using the video link SC linked) now at the same time or 2-3 weeks before seeding. Tenacity doesn’t affect new seed.
If you dethatch, aerate and seed and it’s successful, eventually your new grass will crowd out the weeds.
I had a similar question. Like Gore, I wanted to know if using Tenacity right before seeding would be counterproductive?
What about pine needles and leaves? I had to overseed already to get it done before leaves and needles fall.
What do you think about a product that is a starter fertilizer and weed preventer in one?
I have heard some people talking about those with decent results. I haven't personally tried one yet. I try to limit controls liek that to as little as possible, so I am tend to be more of a post treat type person.
What is the best grass seed for the South? In Alabama zone 7?
I love the vids !! Watch them all right away! I live in Ny and overseeded 11 days ago with black beauty ultra . I cut the yard short ,but still my existing lawn is like 6 inches tall and the new bluegrass is 1. Can I mow this weekend? (6 days from now ) and just cut high ? Or do I need to wait ?
Ideally you would hold off on mowing as long as you can but keep in mind that the wheels from your mower will only touch a small part of the total lawn so I know it probably look really bad right, so yes you can but it will hurt some of the new seed but you will not wipe all your work out, so to keep your sanity and a decent looking space I would say mow it and try to just mow every two weeks after to give it as much chance as posible.
Your lawn looks great!! Flagging your sprinkler heads are essential when dethatching or aerating your lawn. I was wondering what your thoughts were on using the Starter Fertilizer again on your second application. Lawn is not that big 3k sqft and the bag covers 12k sqft. I don't think it would be a problem, but wanted to see your thoughts.
What about dethaching???
I’m wondering when do you recommend aerating? This fall I de-thatched but not aerated.
When do you recommend to start mowing new grass?
Great video as always. How long should I water after following these steps?
Is it too late in the season to still do this? I am in MA too.
What to use in socal
For those of us in Mass, can you let us know where you rented the Billy Goat Aerator? Thanks.
I doubt he rented it from your closest tool rental store, which should have them
Can you help me with getting mushrooms out of my lawn ? What should I use
Do you recommend starting this process by a certain date in the Fall? I live in Northeastern PA. And if not reseeding, but simply core aerating and applying a winter fertilizer, when would you suggest as a cutoff date before it's considered too late? Thank you!
Thanks for the perfect timing of this video. I live in NH and have the same spreader and seed as you used. What setting was your spreader on?
And that spreader is?
@@davidn1369 Anderson SR2000
How long before first snow should we try to do this? I live in Canada and I'm wondering if it's too late...
I need help with mine since I live in Vegas any tips when to start because our weather is very bipolar
I have a relatively small lawn and previously tried a manual aerator that did nothing but get stuck. Yes, I tried several times following the directions on wetting the lawn first. A couple cores might come out and then 10-15 minutes trying to dig the stupid stuck core out. Was a pain in the *ss. I like the design of this one with a little window and slope to guide the core out. In your opinion, do you think this Landzie aerator might work better?
Can i use quick-lime at the same time of seeding and starter fertilizer? Bag says its ok when seeding but not sure of the results when adding starter fertilizer also
Yes it shouldn't cause an issue. The fertilizer won't react to it in any negative way.
Love your channel and tips. Do you aerate and overseed every fall?
I really appreciate that. This summer was VERY tough here in Mass so it defintiely needs some help. If my lawn was doing amazing, I might do it every other year. Or if you are trying to migrate to one variety/brand of seeds its good to do it annually. So you dont have to but it's usually a very god thing. Hope this helps.
Do you put the fertilizer on top of the grass seed same day?
Yes that is not a problem or you can do it a few days or even just before too. Starter will not harm the new grass
How long do you wait before you mow it again?
As long as you can tolerate. The good part is that grass in the aeration holes will be safe from the mower until its tall. So personally I will mow about a week later maybe 2 weeks if I can wait and you will damage some new seed but plenty will still grow.
Living in the northern latitudes like you, do you know how late overseeding can be done? I'm asking because I need to coordinate my sprinkler blowouts. Also, I like to aerate as late as possible, like October, because I like to put down a final low nitrogen fertilizer before November.
Not in cali no rain its still hot af.
Time to put in rock like they do in Vegas.
What do you think of Milorganite? Not sure I’ve ever seen you use or comment on it. Lots of lawn care experts swear by it.
I have an old video on it, I never had the results others did, despite using huge amounts of it. If you look close most of the super fans have all backed off on it since they were essentially telling you to apply 5x+ the amount rated on the bags and I think there were concerns of pollution from phosphate run off. I wasted so much time and money hauling so much of it, I will never use it again. Sorry I know its not the story that others had but I think there are better options and a lot less material.
Thanks for another great video. I was about to apply Duocide based on your other video and some yellow patching I've noticed in my lawn. Do you have a recommendation on which should be done first?
Thank you. You could do them all at the same time as the duocide doesn't interact with seed or these steps, but the sooner the better with the insect control, then you can do the overseeding work when you can. Insects are awful this year.
What happened to the core aerator you bought used from home depot in the past?
I traded it towards the one here. This has the benefit of being really small for storage but it is not nearly as self propelled, with my slopes its a bear.
@@SilverCymbal so, are you sorry you traded it in?
I just went through this as well, and funny enough, I did the exact steps as you to mark my arrogation system. In my case I have LOADS of crabgrass which I sprayed with tenacity a couple weeks back, but I may not have used enough since crabgrass remains. Think I should wait till spring while I let my seed germinate, or a second round of tenacity this fall?
Use a preimergant next spring to wipe out the crab grass. It is to late in the season to do much with it now.
Agree with Joseph. Use a preemergent per instructions in your area next spring. Scotts is fine if you don’t want to be fancy. It works well.
10/15/21 Update - the seed that I planted this fall took well, so I'm likely going to skip seeding in the spring and therefore go with a standard Scott's pre-emergent.
@@colleencatalano3547 only issue here is that I may want to put down more seed in the spring, so I wouldn't want to use a pre-emergent that prevents new grass growth (again, I have little actual grass currently). I've heard of tenacity being used as a pre-emergent (just need to water right after applying). Any advice against this approach?
@@s.woberts6576 I have not used tenacity because my lawn is a healthy KBG. I only overseed in Fall and then in Spring. Tenacity is about the only pre- and post-emergent that does not kill new seed (mainly because it is a naturally occurring compound. If I had weeds, I'd definitely turn to tenacity. When I started working on my lawn several years ago I did use Scotts Weed and Feed and it got rid of everything.....so, you might want to start there and then seed after 6 weeks or so. Good luck!
ultra mentions for clay soil, do you have a recommendation for more toward sandy. i see original is drought tolerant? thanks
He’s on cape cod. Most of the soil there is sandy
Wow, landzie aerator, 2 day old link already unavailable
Wait one second.......what happened to the aerator you bought for 70% off from Home Depot??
Traded it towards this one, this one is smaller to store. The Ryan is still a top machine.
U forgot 1 crucial step in this process; detaching your lawn will increase germination! If you don’t do a proper detachment most of your seeds won’t germinate. IMO
Nope roots are very strong and know exactly to go downward. They can bust through any leaf or grass clippings with ease. The major problem I have seen with this is that if they’re not routed into the dirt yet water rain May wash them away. That’s just my Pinyan.
Yup your so right.Cut lawn short, dethatch, aerate, seed, fertilizer, and apply a layer of peat moss to protect seed and add seed to soil contact. I even rolled mine with a roller. Came up awesome.(nice photo)
My buddy aerates mine for $100. Money well spent.
After I core aerated I got a shit ton of undesirable grassy weeds.
Stay fast
I did it without core aerator...
Can't buy that hand aerator tool anywhere locally...
Any takers who can send me one to Croatia...
LoL. Not kidding 😃
Yikes.. don't walk too close behind that aerator
birds eat all the seeds i put down.
😂 Oh no! Can you use a thin layer of top soil so that it’s not as visible to them?
100 bucks for the landzie fork. I rather have a garden weasel.
Not a cheap tool but over the past few years I tried a few from Amazon and all of them were junk. This one is built like a tank.
Always a few haters who downvote. Probably don’t have nice lawns like this in the trailer parks their from.